Gleams & Notions


  • Powerful New Roles for Fragrance Notes

    Powerful New Roles for Fragrance Notes

    Most products are sold based on their eye appeal, feel and claims.However, the sense of smell is also being used by marketers to attract customers.That trend is evident in a recent article in the St. Petersburg Times of Florida profiling Russell Brum…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 01.04.10

  • More on Skin Treatments

    My June 2008 column, reviewed eczema and its treatment.This month, I will cover other skin problems.People with psoriasis develop patches of thick red skin covered with silvery scales which typically occur on the scalp, knees, elbows, legs and back…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 11.25.09

  • A Non-Paraben Preservative

    A Non-Paraben Preservative

    Among the companies that have developed non-paraben preservatives is Schülke, which has U.S. offices in Mt. Arlington, NJ. Several of the company’s mixtures are effective against bacteria, yeast and molds. Euxyl K 700 (INCI: Phenoxy- etha…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 11.09.09

  • Shedding Light on Exfoliants

    Shedding Light on Exfoliants

    Physical exfoliants have abrasive qualities that can be used in skin care products to remove sebum, unclog pores and slough off dead skin cells. They are also called scrubs. Natural exfoliants include: • Ground nut shells a…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 10.05.09

  • Birth of the Modern Perm

    Today’s safe, easy-to-use permanent wave systems were anything but easy to create. In 1910, K.L. Nessler, a hairdresser living in London, obtained a patent to produce permanent waves by heating hair wound on a mandrel with an aqueous alkali s…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 09.03.09

  • Collagen in Cosmetics

    Collagen is the main fibrous protein of connective tissue in animals and is the most abundant protein in mammals, accounting for 25-35% of total body protein content. Collagen accounts for 1-2% of muscle tissue and 6% of strong tendinous muscles. Col…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 08.03.09

  • Carrubba Relies on Enzymes to Fight Underarm Odor

    Changes are underway in the development of underarm deodorant formulas. A simple, standard deodorant ingredient label typically includes propylene glycol, water, sodium stearate, fragrance, triclosan and FDC dyes. The active ingredient is triclosan,…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 07.07.09

  • A Great Supply of New Ideas at NYSCC Supplier’s Day

    I have been writing this column for 20 years and have always enjoyed the challenge of meeting a deadline. One of my annual activities is to cover the NYSCC Supplier’s Day. This year, as usual, there was a huge attendance at the convention cente…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 06.09.09

  • Rippped from the Headlines: Cosmetics Are in the News

    Occasionally, I look through newspapers and magazines for unusual or humorous mentions related to our industry. The following is the result of my search. A woman from Miami, FL started growing her hair 20 years ago and now has hair that is longer th…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 05.01.09

  • Organically-based Secondary Surfactant Is New from Arch

    Amaranth is a name applied to more than 50 species of annual plants. It is derived from the Greek amarantos which means unwithering. Because some of these plants do not fade rapidly, the name connotes immortality. Two of its common, but quirky names…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 03.31.09

  • Dying to Know the Truth About Oxidative Dyes?

    Dying to Know the Truth About Oxidative Dyes?

    Most dyes are direct dyes, meaning that they have affinity to the surface on which they are being applied such as cloth, skin, hair or paper. The color of the dye solution also indicates the final color of the substrate.      This…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 03.03.09

  • Need a Natural Preservative? Try Naticide from Sinerga

    These days, marketing people are constantly looking for a natural antimicrobial that does not have to be listed as a preservative, so they can call the product “preservative free.” Wouldn’t it be convenient if this “non-pres…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 02.05.09

  • Cationics Are Positive Additions to Personal Care Formulas

    Cationics Are Positive Additions to Personal Care Formulas

    Hair conditioners traditionally contain cationics as their active ingredient. Their positive charge makes them attracted to and substantive to the anionic sites on hair. This, in turn, furnishes good wet combing and manageability, and helps to overco…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 01.07.09

  • A Novel, Natural Humectant

    A Novel, Natural Humectant

    Humectants are hydroscopic, they attract and retain moisture from the atmosphere. The most common ones are polyhydric alcohols with structures shown in Fig. 1. DuPont and Tate & Lyle formed a joint venture in 2004, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio P…
    Harvey Fishman, Consultant 12.01.08

  • A Useful, Multifunctional Cosmetic Ingredient

    When an ingredient performs more than one function in a formula it serves as a very useful tool for the cosmetic chemist.  Multifunctional materials help chemical inventory, likely lower the cost, and certainly simplify the formula.  An off…
    Harvey Fishman, Consultant 11.07.08

  • Good News and Bad News for the Cosmetic Industry

    When I read a newspaper or journal, I note articles pertaining to cosmetics or cosmetic chemicals. In recent weeks, several researchers, primarily those linked to universities, have issued results—some good and some bad—for the industry a…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 09.30.08

  • Try These Novel Emulsifiers

    Kemira Specialty, Inc., Northvale, NJ, has created Kemira NanoGel, an ingredient that produces a nanoemulsion at room temperature using only a blade propeller or even a spatula. When it is added at three times the amount of any oil or oil-soluble ing…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 09.03.08

  • The Buzz on Insect Repellents

    An insect repellent  is a substance applied to skin, clothing or other surfaces that discourages insects from landing or climbing on that surface. While there are products that emit ultrasound to repel insects, this column is devoted to repellen…
    08.04.08

  • A Natural Preservative System

    In the continual search for natural preservatives, Active Micro Systems (AMS), Piscataway, NJ, offers a line it calls “alternative preservative solutions.” One of the them is AMS Leucidal Liquid (INCI: Leuconostoc/ radish root ferment fil…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 07.01.08

  • Creating Cosmetic Solutions for Eczema and Dermatitis

    Last month’s column provided details on acne. More maladies are dermatitis and eczema. Dermatitis is any type of skin inflammation not caused by an infectious agent. Eczema is chronic dermatitis and may result from a family history of asthma, h…
    Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant 06.02.08