Skin Care Shines Through

May 1, 2009

With the recession a likely cause of new wrinkles for marketers, skin care proves a bright spot as consumers continue to spend money on targeted anti-age treatments.

Skin Care
Shines Through

With the recession a likely cause of new wrinkles for marketers, skin care proves a bright spot as consumers continue to spend money on targeted anti-age treatments.

Christine Esposito
Associate Editor

In 2009, with unemployment topping 8% and home prices plunging, is the average woman going to plunk down $70 for an anti-aging eye treatment or night crème even though she just passed up the sale rack at Ann Taylor and started buying store brand cereal? You betcha. Will she shell out $30 for a luxury body lotion? Maybe not.

And so it goes in today’s skin care market—a category that’s faring better than other sectors in a beauty business that has been rocked by a crippled economy.

“Skin care, like other categories, has been adversely affected by the recession, but there are other categories that have done worse,” said Virginia Lee, a senior research analyst with Euromonitor International in Chicago.

According to Euromonitor, in 2008 skin care sales in the U.S. were $8.3 billion, with the mass-market sector growing 1.5% to $5.6 billion and premium edging up ever so slightly (0.3%) to $2.7 billion for the year.

And while those numbers, on the surface, seem less than steller, keep in mind, the prestige skin care market was the only segment in U.S. prestige beauty industry to grow at all, according to data compiled by the NPD Group, Port Washington, NY.

The War on Aging Skin

Despite slower growth rates than in previous years, anti-aging continues to be the hot spot for skin care, rising an impressive 7.7% in 2008, according to Euromonitor.

La Prairie’s Cellular Serum Platinum Rare contains colloidal platinum, which maintains skin's electrical balance.
Prestige brands are leading the charge with sophisticated formulations, exemplified by La Prairie, which last month added a new serum to its Platinum Collection. Cellular Serum Platinum Rare ($650) contains colloidal platinum, which maintains skin’s electrical balance, which in turn strengthens the skin’s buffer zone, keeping pollutants out and moisture in and making it more receptive to receiving nutrients. The concentrated serum uses a submicron delivery system to deliver a high concentration of hesperidin (an antioxidant) to protect the skin’s DNA repair mechanism in the cellular nucleus. In addition, reservatrol and malachite act as antioxidants while watercress extract, vitamin B3, lombuchka (a mushroom) and a light reflecting complex increase brightness and luster, according to the company.

Noevir, too, is touting a new high-end skin care treatment called Speciale, which at $850 is the company’s most expensive treatment to date. Noevir contends that this cosmeceutical anti-aging treatment—which bowed in Japan in 2008 and came to the U.S. market last month—fuses “nanotechnology with the vitality of nature” to counteract all aspects of aging.

The nano-sized emulsion in Speciale is 40 nanometers (compared to about 5,000 nanometers of a regular emulsified cream or lotion), which allows ingredients to pass through a 50 nanometer cell space to work on the deeper layers of the skin. As a result, the ingredients addresses a range of issues: sagging (bifilda ferment lysate), dullness (vitamins B2, A and E), fine lines and wrinkles (sodium hyaluronate and soluble collagen), aging (chinchona extract), discoloration (vitamin C derivative), dryness (polyglutamic acid) and sensitivity(vitamin H).

Noevir spent more than eight years building Speciale, according to Fumi Ozaki, project coordinator/licensed esthetician with Noevir U.S.A., Inc. “During the R&D stage, we wanted to deliver the distinct characteristics of our ingredients which none of our competitors can come close to,” she said. “As we focused on developing the finest emulsion processes, the end result is a formula that is light, yet rich, and that spreads evenly over the skin for instant absorption.”

Noevir is touting a very special anti-aging cream featuring nano-technology and luxurious ingredients.
What also adds to the luxury nature of Speciale is its olfactory profile. Each jar is infused with the scent of Bulgarian and Turkish rose, flowers from Bulgaria’s “Valley of Roses” region. Hand-picked between May and June before sunrise to keep their delicate aroma, it takes 70,000-80,000 petals to produce just one gram of essential oil, according to Noevir. Company executives insist there is a market for products like Speciale that deliver high-quality performance and unparalleled aesthetics.

“Despite the plunging economy, there are women out there who always desire to become youthful at any age. Speciale is the most exclusive treatment cream that offers the most advanced technology, the most sumptuous texture and the most glorious results,” Ms. Ozaki concluded.

Creams, lotions and serums with luxurious ingredients aren’t just for high-end department stores and luxury brands these days. American Beauty has brought the concept to Kohl’s with its new Ultimate Diamond Restorative Anti-Aging Cream ($49.50), which contains diamond powder and timiron super silver (mica). Rolled out in March, the formulation also includes artemia and micrococcus lysate extract, which support skin’s natural structure, and Yeast Extract Max, a potent yeast ferment that improves collagen synthesis.

According to American Beauty, which is part of Estée Lauder, clinical studies show that after eight weeks of use, skin is 65% more visibly lifted, 34% firmer, 42% less lined looking and the appearance of age spots is reduced by 57%.

The Bottle Will See You Now

While everyone wants younger-looking skin, more women appear to be shying away from invasive methods to turn back the clock. According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, while the number of non-surgical procedures (such as Botox, hyaluronic acid, chemical peels and laser skin resurfacing) performed on women has risen by a whopping 233% since 1997, they dropped 11% in the past year.

Today, many cosmetic firms vow they can mimic more expensive and invasive procedures that usually happen behind closed doors at the dermatologist’s office with new at-home treatments.

Avon, for example, has rolled out Anew Clinical Derma-Full X3 Facial Filling Serum ($54), which it contends is the first topical serum containing the same injectable-grade hyaluronic acid facial filler used by dermatologists. According to Avon, in just three days the serum begins to fill in wrinkles for a smoother, younger look; in two weeks its adds youthful definition to the jaw line; and after four weeks it dramatically reduces the look of facial folds and hollowness. Over time, it restores youthful contours and adds definition to the face, according to the direct seller.

Clinique’s Turnaround Radiance Peel offers the brightening and radiance benefits of a professional 30% glycolic peel.
Also on trend is Clinique, which has expanded its Turnaround franchise with Instant Facial and Radiance Peel Once-A-Week System, two new products that also promise to deliver professional results with less downside.

“The goal is to get the epidermis to turn over and refresh itself,” said Dr. Tom Mammone, executive director, Clinique research and development. To do so, Turnaround Instant Facial ($36.50) combines physical and chemical exfoliation to deliver the results of a professional microdermabrasion treatment without the post-treatment irritation. The pale-blue cream mask packs a powerful punch of ingredients, including two delivery systems for salicylic acid (one, a micro-particle system that provides a quick, targeted shot to encourage a speedy exfoliation and a second which seeks out the driest patches of skin) as well as chestnut extract (which gently enhances skin’s natural enzymatic activity and accelerates the shedding of the outer layer of dead skin cells) and acetyl glucosamine (an amino sugar that continuously regulates cell turnover). Adding another layer of performance, Instant Facial also has “energy” ingredients, specifically adenosine phosphate and creatine. “Those same molecules that help the body perform better, help the skin turnaround,” said Dr. Mammone.

Turnaround Radiance Peel ($55) is a two-phase, once-a-week specialized exfoliation system that offers the brightening and radiance benefits of a professional 30% glycolic peel. Users follow up the peel with the Calming Cream, which features sea whip extract (a marine-based anti-irritant), green tea and shea butter.

Described by the company as a “face lift in a bottle,” Borghese’s new Insta-Firm Platinum ($79) is a lightweight serum designed to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the forehead and eye area. Formulated with a special hexapeptide to help decrease the depth and volume of wrinkles caused by facial expression movement, the serum also contains an algae and pullulan-based skin tightener that provides immediate and long-lasting tightening of the skin.

In the world of anti-aging procedures, Botox is big business—it was the leading non-surgical procedure in 2008. Tapping into that trend is University Medical Pharmaceuticals, which is stocking its new WrinkleFree Eyes 20-Minute Eye Lift System at CVS, Rite Aid, Target, Walgreens and Wal-Mart outlets. Billed as an alternative to Botox, WrinkleFree works via iontophoresis, in which a patented micro-charged eye patch activates on contact with the skin to gently push Retinol 4x activating serum deep into the skin to dramatically reduce the appearance of wrinkles in only 20 minutes.

In order to maintain results between patch treatments, the two-week starter kit ($29.99) includes 24 Hour Face Lift dermal filler, a daily product that continually releases hyaluronic acid to naturally fill in gaps and decrease the look of wrinkles and enhance smoothness and elasticity, as well as WrinkleFree Eyes’ patented nightly Retinol 4x intensive cream, which is time-released so it is less irritating than leading retinol treatments, according to the Irvine, CA-based company.

“There is a major shift to less invasive methods. We think WrinkleFree is the answer, and is far less costly and painful than Botox,” noted Ray Francis, chief executive officer.

By using printed electronic technology and not imbedding the ingredients into the patch, University Medical has been able to keep the price point lower than other eye patches on the market.According to Mr. Francis, the technology has the potential to lure consumers away from luxury brands to mass. “They will be coming from luxury, but it will also be for wannabes who wanted surgery and Botox, but they didn’t want to spend money or they didn’t want the pain.”

Innovation at Mass

The ability to convey sophistication at a moderate price point is vital to success in the mass market, especially at a time when more consumers are considering migrating down a channel, rather than moving up to a more expensive brand.

According industry observers, consumers who are trading down in skin care are turning to companies that spend money on R&D and are advertising that their products as high-quality, including Olay, L’Oréal and Neutrogena—all of which saw their respective shares of the total skin care market rise in 2008, according to Euromonitor.

“Consumers seem to be gravitating to brands they trust,” noted Karen Grant, senior global industry analyst and vice president, beauty, NPD Group. “They are looking for innovation from mass.”

They’re getting it. L’Oréal Paris, for example, has rolled out its own army of products, led by the launch of Advanced Revitalift Deep-Set Wrinkle Repair, a pairing of nighttime and daytime treatments. In addition to Revitalift’s signature Pro-Retinol A, Revitalift Deep-Set Wrinkle Repair SPF Day Lotion and Deep-Set Wrinkle Repair Night Creme include Fiber-Restoring Complex, a combination of Pro-Lastyl and Vitoptine. Pro-Lastyl has shown in-vitro to neutralize elastase (an elastin destroying enzyme) and stimulate the production of new elastin for increased skin firmness, while Vitoptine (derived from Vigna aconitifolia) has been shown in vitro to synthesize collagen 1.

Also new from L’Oréal Paris is Age Perfect Re-Cushioning Serum ($16.59). Formulated to reduce the signs of menopausal and post-menopausal skin, it combines soy seed proteins and jasmine extract to stimulate production of natural collagen fibers. Housed in a dropper (the first one in mass, according to L’Oréal), the serum also contains ceramide-5, which helps repair skin’s moisture barrier.

L’Oréal has been bolstering its increasingly popular Garnier Nutritioniste line too. New additions include the Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Pro line, a trio of products that are $16.99 each. The range includes Ultra-Lift Pro Deep Wrinkle Roller, the Ultra-Lift Pro Deep Wrinkle Cream SPF 20 and the Ultra-Lift Pro Dual Eye Treatment, each of which contain L’Oréal’s patented Pro-Xylane, a naturally derived raw sugar extract from the beech tree that works to rebuild skin structure.

L’Oréal is also answering demands for more targeted treatments, which are the fastest growing sectors with the anti-aging category. Among its new treatments are Nutritioniste Skin Renew Anti Sun Damage Eye Cream SPF 15, which uses lycopene, vitamin C and minerals to repair the appearance of sun damaged skin around the eye, and L’Oréal Paris Collagen Filler Lip, a dual-ended advanced lip contouring treatment that teams an anti-feathering cream with a plumping serum.

The French company has clearly stepped up its efforts in mass skin care, but P&G’s Olay—which has long been a leader and crowd favorite—continues to grow its share of total skin care market.

According to Euromonitor, Olay’s share rose to 9.5% in 2008 from 9.3% in 2007, bolstered by growth of anti-agers, according to Ms. Lee.

And now, P&G is looking to further Olay’s leadership with Olay Professional Pro-X. Borne out of genomics research, the Pro-Xline has chemistry, clinical studies and a price point that mirrors professional products.

Designed as a regimen, the Pro-X line includes Age Repair Lotion with SPF 30, Wrinkle Smoothing Cream and Hydra Firming Cream as well as specialized treatments that deal with deep wrinkles, the eye area and discoloration. Key ingredients in the Hydra Firming Cream include Hexamidine, which restores the stratum corneum barrier and barrier lipids, and Pal-KT and Pal-KTTKS, palmitoyl peptides that work together to stimulate the production of major and minor collagen.

“To get professional results, you need a unique combination of ingredients at the right concentrations. The line contains the highest concentration of ingredients in the whole Olay lineup,” said Dr. Rosemarie Osborne, a P&G Beauty scientist who has been involved with the Pro-X project from the start, back when the company initiated informal talks with experts in areas of dermatology, clinical methodology, biochemistry and molecular biology. This group would later become the Olay Professional Alliance for Skin Care Innovation, which has played a major role in Pro-X’s development.

“It was rewarding see the project from test tube to a product on shelf; to work with dermatologists to select the right ingredients, take that good science approach, cover all the fundamentals, and then take it to marketplace,” Dr. Osborne told Happi.

Olay Professional Pro-X vows to bring professional results to mass market consumers with this new skin care regimen.
P&G is backing Pro-X’s efficacy with results from clinical studies that paired it against a leading anti-aging prescription brand (0.02% tretinoin in an emollient base). In the study, which featured 196 Caucasian female subjects aged 40 to 65 years with moderate to moderately severe periorbital wrinkles, the Professional Pro-X Intensive Wrinkle Protocol was shown to reduce the appearance of wrinkles as effectively as the prescription brand. The Intensive Wrinkle Protocol consists of nighttime usage of the Wrinkle Smoothing Cream and Deep Wrinkle Treatment and morning usage of the Deep Wrinkle Treatment and Age Repair Lotion with SPF 30.

“The study gives more power to the consumer—you will get those results without having to resort to prescription treatments,” said Dr. Osborne.

Despite the high-tech science behind the line, some contend P&G will face obstacles when it comes to price. At $42 per item, with a starter kit selling for $69, Pro-X is more expensive than the average price point in the prestige skin care channel, which could make it a tough sell in today’s economy. And it is more expensive than Olay Regenerist, a line that has done extremely well with consumers by promoting the fact that it out performs some of the most expensive skin care treatments in the market.

“Even in a good economy, I think (the price point) is a real step up,” said Ms. Lee. “If Regenerist is better than the $700 cream, then consumers would ask, ‘why should I spend $47 on the professional cream?’,” she said, referring to a statement in Regenerist’s ad campaign.

Body Care

While consumers focus on anti-aging treatments that promise big payoffs, finding value has become a theme in general purpose skin care.

“Face products people won’t sacrifice, but they may trade down on certain products, like a body product or a cleanser,” said Ms. Grant.

Cost is clearly the motivating factor. Recent research from the Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) in New York found that body lotion ranked among the top five products with the largest gaps in pricing by percentage. According to PLMA, the average price of national brand body lotion at the supermarket was $9.99 compared to $5.00 for private label body lotion. Further, IRI data for the 52 weeks ended March 22, 2009 showed that private label hand and body lotion not only leads in mass, but posted growth of 12.5% while the entire category remained stagnant.

Avon’s Anew Clinical Derma-Full X3 Facial Filling Serum contains the same injectable-grade hyaluronic acid facial filler used by dermatologists.
Price consciousness, coupled with brand recognition, is good news for Johnson & Johnson, which has recently revamped and extended its line of body care lotions and washes—and has priced all of the products under $6.

“We have found that because of its price point and positioning, younger women are buying our products and we decided to explore what else we could do to become more relevant to that target market,” said Teresa Gonzalez, product director, Johnson’s Body Care. “We have kept aspects of the lotions and washes that we know our customers absolutely love while providing formulation and more sensorial updates to others.”

For example, Johnson’s Body Care 24 Hour Body Lotion, which rolled out in January, has been reformulated with shea butter, vitamin E and mica to hydrate, help reflect light and illuminate the skin, while the fragrance was enhanced with rose and sandalwood notes. New additions include Johnson’s Body Care Forever Fresh Refreshing Lotion, which Ms. Gonzalez said has a unique, encapsulated fragrance that releases when the skin experiences friction, allowing users to continuously experience the scent’s melon, apple and lily of the valley notes throughout the day.

“These skin care products offer the name brand that they trust at an affordable price,” noted Ms. Gonzalez, “which is especially important in today’s economy.”

What’s Next?

The big question for skin care marketers is when, if ever, will consumers open their wallets and begin spending like they had in the past?

“The fact is, even if the economy picks up in the next six months, we still have millions of people who are unemployed. How we spend has fundamentally shifted,” said Ms. Grant of NPD.

“People have been shell-shocked; it will take a few years for so-called normal behavior to return,” added Ms. Lee. Even if they go back to premium and luxury brands, consumers will be looking for value, such as GWPs, while in mass, shoppers will be clipping coupons, she said.

In addition, consumers will be looking within their channel for brands that offer the greatest innovation, and will gravitate to those products. In prestige, brands and products with technology being duplicated in mass “will be most at risk,” according to Ms. Grant.

With consumers expecting more innovative and efficacious formulations, companies are ratcheting up R&D efforts in their quest for the next big breakthrough.

According to Dr. Mammone, the future of skin care science will be shaped by the expansion of the philosophy among formulators that external and internal factors related to aging must be addressed. Clinique is already traveling that route, evidenced by new Youth Surge SPF 15 Age Decelerating Moisturizer, which prevents and repairs the signs of aging with the use of Sirtuin activation and anti-glycation technologies.

Youth Surge contains a patent-pending complex of isonicotinamide/ luteolin/NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), which works to help promote skin’s natural cellular longevity, shifting skin to its natural “repair and maintenance mode,” according to the company. In addition, Clinique scientists included hydroxyproline, which functions as a signaling agent to the skin to promote natural collagen and elastin repair; Siegesbeckia orientalis extract, a botanical that helps prevent the breakdown of natural collagen so skin’s structural integrity is maintained; and sodium ribonucleic acid (RNA) fragments, which help to trigger skin’s natural repair process to counter the damaging effects of stress, pollution and UV exposure.

Clinique Youth Surge SPF 15 repairs the signs of aging using of sirtuin activation and anti-glycation technologies.
“With the discovery of Sirtuins, there has been a 180° change—we recognize that there are external factors to aging, but we also age from the inside too,” said Dr. Mammone. “In the next five to 10 years, we will see pathways, the longevity genes, and how they age the skin. While we will always be concerned about sun and pollution, we now know we age from the inside and we need to address how that is modifiable.”

According to Dr. Osborne of P&G, genomics—which has already unlocked a deeper understanding of skin’s function—will continue to speed product development and lead to more customized products.

“Before, to understand a single change in skin, it took months or even years. Now we can do things in few days that would have taken much longer in the past. We can dig in and understand the primary changes in aging skin.”

Dr. Osborne continued, “We are just scratching the surface of genomics—understanding it and customizing it. The future holds more specific treatments for the skin care concerns of individuals.”

Estée Lauder’s Skin Care After Dark

New serum delivers results your mother’s night cream never dreamed possible.

Research in genetic aging has enabled Estée Lauder to craft Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex, a new serum that helps skin continuously repair the appearance of past damage caused by everymajor environmental assault—UV light, smoke, pollution, ozone and even emotional stress—all while you get some much needed shuteye.

A new treatment for sleeping beauty.
According to Estée Lauder, healthy skin cells maximize repair functioning at night via precisely timed repair responses based on the body’s natural circadian cycle.Each skin cell contains itsown “clock genes,” which help each cell maximize its own DNA repair.But with age and repeated exposure to environmental stresses, theseclock genes can get out of sync, causing cellular repair andprotective process to slow down and compromise DNA repair.

Estée Lauder, which contends its scientists are among thefirst in skin care to understand the role of clock gene activation andsynchronization to enhance skin’s natural repair activity, hasharnessed that knowledge in the serum’s Chronolux Technology, a scientifically engineered amino acid sequence that helps support skin’s natural synchronization of cellular clocks. That synchronization increases skin’s natural ability to repair past damage and address the damaging effects of environmental assaults before theybecome permanent.

In addition, Advanced Night Repair Synchronized RecoveryComplex is formulated with encapsulated alkyl guanine transferase (AGT).

“The encapsulated AGT is used in our new formula to enhance the natural repair mechanism of the cells,” said Dr. Daniel H. Maes,senior vice president, research and development worldwide, The Estée Lauder Companies. “We are using the same enzyme that, in the skin cells, remove the alkyl groups (pollution) from the DNA structure,hence enhancing the natural repair process of the cells.”

Dr. Maes said researchers have found that “the naturalelimination of the alkyl group by the cells was not sufficient to eliminate all the damages caused by the exposure to pollution, hencethe need to boost the natural repair mechanism.” If alkylation damageis not repaired quickly enough, the damage becomes permanent, according to the company.

Estée Lauder is no stranger to the nightshift, havingvirtually created the night “repair” category with the launch of itsoriginal Night Repair complex in 1982. Last year, 1.6 million bottles of Advanced Night Repair serum were sold—that’s three every minute.

Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex, which hitscounters in July and is patented until 2017, comes in 1oz ($47.50) and1.7oz bottles ($74.50).

Skin CareNew Ingredients

Here is a list of new skin care care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.
For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.

Active Organics

Lewisville, TX
Tel: 972-221-7500
Fax: 972-221-3324
E-mail: sales@activeorganics.com
Website: www.activeorganics.com


INCI: Dipropylene glycol, centella asiaica extract, echinacea angustifolia leaf extract, rosemarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, ganoderma lucidum (mushroom) extract, SD alcohol 40-B
Use Levels: 1-2%
Applications: Facial, eye area and body products where a documentable firming and anti-aging effect is desired
Comments: ActifirmAge is a patented blend of standardized Rosemarinarus officinalis extract, echinacea angustifolia extract, Centella asiatica extract and a peptidyl extract from Ganoderma lucidum (reishi mushroom) in an enhanced delivery system. It up-regulates production of key enzymes necessary for dermal health and helps reduce protein glycation, a major cause of skin aging. Significant improvements in overall skin beauty, apparent age, firmness, tone and texture will be perceived. Can be used with or to replace other anti-aging ingredients such as peptides, retinoids and AHAs.


INCI: Triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract, olea europaea (olive) fruit extract, coleus forskohlii root extract, polygonum cuspidatum extract, capry-ic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride
Use Levels: 1-2%
Applications: Skin care gels, lotions and creams were an intense (non-greasy) moisturizing effect is desired
Comments: ActiLipid is a blend of polar and neutral lipids from wheat germ, plant derived triglycerides, free fatty acids, sterols and sterol esters, a low molecular weight peptide fraction from Coleus forskohlii (CF) and resveratrol, from Japanese bamboo. Any skin care product with ActiLipid will provide an immediate barrier repair, and can hydrate skin for more than 24 hours. Over time, ActiLipid dramatically improves barrier effectiveness and up regulates filaggrin production which will lead to a younger looking with less sensitive and more resistant to irritation and atopic dermatitis. Especially effective for extremely dry skin on the face and body. Also suitable for after- sun products.


INCI: Brassica oleracea italica (broccoli) extract, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care in creams, lotions and some gels. To be used for sensitive skin, and in aggressive anti-aging products where some irritation may occur. Will enhance the activity of daily and (beach) sun products, as well as after sun treatments. Also will reduce redness and irritation from acne and the use of certain acne treatments.
Comments: ActImmune is standardized broccoli extract. It is best to be used in skin care products designed to reduce chronic skin sensitivity. It also up regulates the production of SOD, catalase and glutathione increasing skin’s own natural defense systems. ActImmune will reduce the formation of glycation end product, thrus minimizes age associated changes in collagene and elastin. It also reduces UV induced inflammation and facial adult acne.

Arch Personal Care Products L.P.

South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-561-5200

Metabiotics Resveratrol

INCI: Pichia/resveratrol ferment extract
Use Levels:1-5%
Applications:Anti-aging products, body lotion, treatment (body), toner, facial moisturizer, treatment (face), makeup foundation, all skin care products

ChronoSphere Opticals

INCI:Silica and DMPA/isophthalic acid/SMDI copolymer
Use Levels:1-10%
Applications: All anti-aging products; face/body creams and lotions, eye creams, makeup
Comments: Light controlling spherical powder, obscuring skin imperfections, minimizing fine lines/wrinkles, illusion of surface smoothness, luminescent appearance

ChronoSphere Opticals

INCI:Silica and DMPA/isophthalic acid/SMDI copolymer and green 5 [EU name: CI 61570]
Use Levels:1-10%
Applications: All anti-aging products; face/body creams and lotions, eye creams, makeup
Comments: Neutralizes skin color, light controlling spherical powder, obscuring skin imperfections, minimizing fine lines/wrinkles, illusion of surface smoothness, luminescent appearance.

Bayer MaterialScience AG

Leverkusen, Germany
Tel: +49 (0)214 /30-1
Fax:+49 (0)214 /30-96 38810
Website: www.bayercosmetics.com

Baycusan C 1000

INCI: Polyurethane-34
Use Levels: 2-10%
Applications:For any type of sun care and skin care formulations
Comments: Outstanding water resistance, high skin substantivity, non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel, excellent aethetics: lotions and creams have smooth texture, full body and snow-white appearence.

Baycusan C 1003

INCI: Polyurethane-32
Use Levels: 30-80%
Applications: Any type of leave on cosmetic formulations
Comments: Extremely flexible and elastic films, clear and odorless films, excellent skin substantivity, smooth, non-tacky and soft afterfeel.

Baycusan C 1005

INCI: Methoxy PEG-17/methoxy PEG-11/HDI crosspolymer
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications:sensory additive for any type of cosmetic formulations
Comments: Excellent skin feeling: powdery, velvety finish on skin, outstanding pigment spreadability (even color average), high oil absorption capacity.

Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Fax: 203-822-9820
E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com


INCI: Propanediol, water (aqua), ruscus aculeatus root extract, citrus medica limonum peel extract, solidago virgaurea extract, astragalus membranaceus root extract
Use Levels: 2-3%
Applications: Anti-cellulite formulations
Comments: Drenalip is a cosmetic active ingredient effective in the treatment of cellulite. Drenalip is a complex of four vegetal origin ingredients: astragalus, butcher’s broom, lemon and goldenrod.Drenalip acts to avoid formation of new fat cells, reduce existing adipocytes, enhance blood flow and diminish existing fat deposits.In vitro and in vivo tests have shown a 32% increase in lipolysis, 110% decrease in adipogenesis, 36% increase in blood flow, 0.3cm decrease in thigh contour and 0.01mm decrease in skin thickness.Sensory self-evaluation test results include 65% “orange peel” decrease, 75% firmer/ more toned skin, 65% blood circulation and 55% anti-cellulite efficacy.Further test details are available.


INCI: Panthenol, marrubium vulgare extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, water, glycerin
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-stretch mark treatments, cosmetic products that help repair scars, firm/moisturizing/slim-ming body care products.
Comments:Regu-Stretch is a new solution specifically developed for the treatment of stretch marks. This combination of a synthetic peptide, a vitamin and an organic marrubium extract acts to protect stretched skin structure as well as diminish existing stretch marks. Regu-Stretch protects skin during mechanical stretching, reduces inflammation, protects skin structure from tissue degradation, stimulates the repair of stretch marks by stimulating collagen synthesis, and helps keep the skin moist and supple.In-vitro testing of Regu-Stretch has demonstrated a down regulation of pro-inflammatory cytokines. A three month in vivo clinical test has shown that stretch mark length and width can be reduced by up to 15% and 43%, respectively, and that the dermis density increased by up to 29%.A visual evaluation of the skin shows a remarkable reduction on the stretch marks.


INCI: Water, glycerin, papain, calcium pantothenate, xanthan gum, caprylyl glycol, urea, magnesium lactate, ethylhexylglycerin, potassium lactate, serine, alanine, proline, magnesium chloride, sodium citrate
Use Levels: 5-10%
Applications: Moisturizing skin care formulations
Comments:Peelmoist is a molecular film designed to obtain an optimized delivery of papain, a proteolytic enzyme that selectively degrades corneodesmosomal linkages between damaged or dead cells.Peelmoist provides improved moisturization to the skin and preserves the natural barrier function of the epidermis, due to the ingredients contained from the Natural Moisturizing Factor.In-vitro testing of Peelmoist showed improved desquamation on human epidermic keratinocytes (HEK), compared to papain alone. In-vivo testing on a panel of 20 women volunteers using a 7% Peelmoistgel showed a significant moisturizing effect only 24 hours after application, and provided long lasting hydration.


INCI: Adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer, water, amodimethicone, dimethicone, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, VP/VA copolymer
Use Levels: 15-60%
Applications: Skin care formulations, visual enhancer
Comments: Aurasphere is a novel complex that provides unique visual and tactile properties.When used alone or in combination with other materials, Aurasphere works to minimize the appearance of lines and wrinkles, while providing a soft comfortable film.The result is a smooth, silky film which makes the skin appear virtually free of fine lines. Aurasphere is available in two different particle sizes.Aurasphere Suspension has a particle size of 4-12µ.Aurasphere N has a particle size of 0.5-6µ, therefore providing a more even, natural coverage with slightly less feel.Further details are available.

Tego Cosmo PGA

INCI: Polyglutamic acid
Use Levels: 0.1-0.5%
Applications: Moisturizing skin care formulations
Comments: Tego Cosmo PGA is a polypeptide of the amino acid L-glutamic acid.Tego Cosmo PGA is a film former with moisturizing properties and provides a smooth sensory skin feel.Tego Cosmo PGA is edible, non-toxic to humans and biodegradable.Its polyanionic character provides chelating properties for divalent cations.Therefore, Tego Cosmo PGA will support the solubilization, delivery and bioavailability of biologically important cations like calcium and magnesium. In vitro tests demonstrated that Tego Cosmo PGA shows good performance to complex and keep water, while glycerin only fixes the water without being able to bind it with hysteretic efficacy.An evaluation of sensory benefits showed that the cream containing Tego Cosmo PGA was preferred to the vehicle cream.Further test details are available.

Chemsil Silicones, Inc.

Chatsworth, CA
Tel: 877-700-0302
Email: pnuntavong@chemsil.com
Website: www.chemsil.com

Chemsil SPD

INCI: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels:3-15%
Applications: Lotions and silk sprays
Comments:Chemsil SPD is 60% aqueous dispersion of low micronspherical silicone powder. Typical formulations contain up to 10% solids by weight. This powder dispersion provides flexibility in formulating, ease of use, and fine tailoring of the products final properties. Leaves a silky talc-like feel when incorporated into skin care products. Perfect for silk sprays and after-shower lotions for reducing skin friction. Popular in anti-aging wrinkle crèmes and lotions.

Emulsil WO-5115

INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/ PPG-18/18 dimethicone
Use Levels:0.50-10%
Applications: Sunscreens, antiperspirants, and pigments
Comments:Emulsil WO-5115 is a popular oil-in-water surfactant. Emulsil WO-5115 is an excellent silicone emulsifier for preparing water-in-oil cosmetic and personal care emulsions and lotions. Base diluent is cyclopentasiloxane. Excellent emulsifier for delivery system for sunscreens, antiperspirant actives and pigments.

Cosmetic Fluid 6590-DM

INCI:Disiloxane (and) dimethicone
Use Levels:≤100.00%
Applications: Serums, spot treatments, suncreens, analgesics
Comments:Cosmetic Fluid 6590-DM is a non-cyclic compound, composed of a mixture of highly volatile linear dimethicones and a dimethicone elastomer of high molecular weight. Recommended for formulating fast-drying serums and spot treatments, where the active ingredients are used. Cosmetic Fluid 6590-DM contains no cyclic silicones and is ideal for stabilizing retinol without inert gas (patent pending). Provides a greaseless, elegant feel on skin. Can be used withsunscreens, analgesics and active raw materials. Extremely fast-drying.

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium

Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 (0)30 85 10 26 0
E-mail: +49 (0)30 85 1026 85
Website: www.clr-berlin.com

Organic Calendula Oil CLR

INCI: Glycine soja (soybean) oil (and) calendula officinalis flower extract (and) tocopherol
Use Levels: 3-10%
Applications: Protective care of sensitive skin, e.g. babies’ skin.
Comments: Calendula Oil CLR protects dry, scaly and stressed skin.

Lactokine Fluid PF

INCI: Milk protein
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications:Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, the product is particularly suitable for after-sun, after-shave, and baby care products.
Comments: Lactokine Fluid PF is designed for the regenerative and soothing care of stressed skin.

Cognis Corporation

Care Chemicals North America
Tel: (215) 628-1542
Fax: (215) 628-1450

Cetiol SenSoft

INCI:Propylheptyl caprylate
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care,color cosmetics, AP/Deo
Comments: Cetiol SenSoft, the “happy” emollient, delivers a multi-dimensional softness that is luxurious and leaves the skin feeling silky soft. A light, highly versatile emollient, Cetiol Sensoft is suitable for face/body, sun, decorative cosmetics and AP/Deo. It is highly compatible with UV filters, has good solubilizing power, pigment dispersion and powder wetting ability. Cetiol Sensoft is an excellent choice for silicone-free formulations.

Cetiol OE

INCI:Dicaprylyl ether
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Face/body care
Comments: Cetiol OE is based on 100% natural feedstocks.It is a fast spreading emollient that is approved by both Ecocert and NPA. Cetiol OE gives the skin a light, silky feel and is ideal for innovative green formulations without silicones. It is hydrolysis stable and suitable for formulations with a wide pH range.

Cetiol CC

INCI:Dicaprylyl carbonate
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Face, body care, sun care
Comments: Cetiol CC is a fast spreading, versatile emollient that is approved by Ecocert. It is primarily derived from natural, renewable feedstocks and is ideal for green formulations formulated without silicones. Cetiol CC gives formulations a light texture and leaves the skin feeling velvety soft.It is particularly suitable for sun care formulations because of its excellent solubilizing behavior.

Croda Inc

Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Fax: 732-417-0804

Brij ESF

INCI:Isoceteth-20 & PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide & laureth-23
Use Levels: 0.5-20%
Applications:Creams, lotions, AP/Deo
Comments: A patented liquid emulsifier blend (HLB 12.5) with emulsification, solubilization and foaming properties.Used to make oil-in-water emulsions, it can function as a cold process emulsifier, allowing for the production of more environmentally conscious products.

SolPerForm 100

INCI:Aqua (and) hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer
Use Levels: 2%
Applications:Sunscreens, skin care
Comments:A film forming polymer that boosts the efficacy of UV filters in sunscreen formulations by improving the distribution of the actives over the skin.

Arlasolve DMI-PC

INCI:Dimethyl isosorbide
Use Levels:3-7%
Applications: Self tanners, skin lighteners, scalp treatments, body enhancing products, anti-acne, anti-aging
Comments: A safe carrier ingredient proven to boost the delivery of actives into the epidermis, enabling targeted delivery for products. Also can solubilize difficult to handle active ingredients.

Dow Corning

Midland, MI 48686-0994
Tel: (989) 496-6000
E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/personalcare

Dow Corning FZ-3196-Volatile Alkyl Methyl Siloxane Fluid

INCI: Caprylyl methicone
Use Levels: 5-20%
Applications:This product can be used in several skin care applications, including moisturizers, gels, makeup removers, and facial cleansers. Due to the presence of the caprylyl group on the silicone backbone, this ingredient has good compatibility with a wide range of organic ingredients and pigments while maintaining very good spreading. This results into a less dry feel and richer feel when compared to volatile silicones but still very light due to the moderate volatility.
Comments: Dow Corning FZ-3196 is a volatile alkyl methyl siloxane fluid that combines compatibility and handling ease. This luxurious carrier enhances the aesthetics of vegetable oils and delivers many benefits to your formulations: excellent spreadability; light, silky, smooth feel; moderate volatility (feels less dry than more volatile materials); excellent compatibility with both silicones and organic materials; co-solubilizer between silicone and organic oils; improves spreadability and reduces tackiness and greasy feel of vegetable oils; clear, colorless, low viscosity fluid; and easy to handle. This high-quality fluid is readily available and supported by comprehensive testing data. Dow Corning FZ-3196 is easy to incorporate into many personal care applications because it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients. Use it with vegetable oils or other naturals for enhanced sensory benefits, as a carrier for other ingredients, or as a dispersing medium for hydrophobic powders and pigments. Its affordable cost-in-use and wide range of outstanding features and benefits make Dow Corning FZ-3196 the natural choice for formulations that use ingredients of natural origin.

Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax

INCI: C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl poly-propylsilsesquioxane
Use Levels: Dependent on the application, can be as low as 2% for structuring an emulsion and as high as 20% for a lipstick.
Applications: Rheology and texture modifier in oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions and also anhydrous gels. Structuring agent for sticks, especially lipsticks. Can be used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as color cosmetics, skin care, sun care and hair care.
Comments: Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax is a 66°C melting point silicone resin wax. It combines the physical and chemical characteristics of silicone wax with silicone resin such as improved non transfer. Features high melting point wax (66°C); semi-occlusive material. Benefits include rheology and texture modifier; structuring agent; broad compatibility with organic and silicone materials; good compatibility with fragrances; increases non- transfer property in lipsticks; improves coverage, color uniformity and intensity in color cosmetic applications.

Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend

INCI: Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane
Applications:Skin moisturization with Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend and petrolatum is comparable over six hours. In a prototype skin lotion, sensory characteristics of the two materials are similar—but the soy wax blend imparts a smoother feel with better slip after absorption.
Comments: Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blendis a blend of Dow Corning HY-3050 Soy Wax and hydrogenated soybean oil, which can be used as an alternative to petrolatum. Semi-occlusive on the skin; also imparts smoothness.It is a naturally derived viscous paste formed when metathesized, hydrogenated soybean oil in the form of a soft wax is blended with partially hydrogenated soybean oil. Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend can be used as a naturally derived alternative to petrolatum in both hair and skin care formulations.

Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation

Hopewell, VA
Tel: 800-446-1809, ext. 5623
E-mail: carla.huffman@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care

Abil Care XL 80

INCI: Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 dimethicone; methoxy PEG/PPG-25/4 dimethicone; caprylic/capric triglyceride
Use Levels: 2-3%
Applications: Body lotions for aged skin, moisturizing cream gels, skin creams, self-tanning lotions, O/W moisturizing body sprays
Comments: This new silicone O/W emulsifier provides an outstanding combination of stabilization and sensory benefits, including a silky feel, particularly in moisturizing cream gels.
Tego Pep 4-17
INCI: Tetrapeptide-12; glycerin; butylene glycol; aqua
Use Levels: 3%
Applications:O/W and W/O skin cream formulations claiming anti-aging/anti-wrinkle properties.
Comments: New bioactive and pure tetrapeptide with excellent collagen-boosting activity. Ideal for aged skin because it decreases the appearance of wrinkles and reduces skin roughness.
Tego Wipe Lux
INCI: Ethylhexyl stearate; sorbitan laurate; phenoxyethanol; gossypium herbaceum (cotton) seed oil; polyglyceryl-4 laurate; dilauryl citrate
Use Levels: 5%
Applications:O/W facial wipes for mature skin, impregnating liquids to improve evenness of skin tone
Comments: Innovative EO-free concentrate for cosmetic wet wipes; contains natural cotton seed oil, ideal for mature skin. Enables formulation of low-viscous O/W impregnating liquids with a rich and caring skin feel.

Extracts & Ingredients Ltd.

Union, NJ
Tel: (908) 688 9009
Website: www.morretec.com

Argon Oil

INCI: Argania spinosa
Use Levels: 0.2-0.5%
Applications: Argon oil is rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids. It has moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties.

OlivOil Emulsifier

INCI: Olivoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein and cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl oleate and glyceryl stearate and potassium hydroxyde
Use Levels: 5-10%
Applications: Natural emulsifier is an excellent base for creams, helps prevent skin irritation makes the skin firmer and more elastic.

Kiwi Oil

INCI: Actinidia chinensis
Use Levels: 0.2-0.5%
Applications: Kiwi oil has anti reddening, emollient and skin conditioning properties

Gelest, Inc.

Morrisville, PA
Tel: 609-240-6741
Website: www.gelest.com

DE 15

INCI: Polydiethylsiloxane
Use Levels: 2-12%
Applications:Moisturizers, sunscreens
Comments: Has the slip and silky skin feel of dimethicone, yet good compatibility with other cosmetic raw materials.

AM 114

INCI: Myristyl methicone
Use Levels: 2-10%
Applications: Moisturizers, anti-aging creams
Comments: Rich, non-tacky emollient to improve moisture retention

TM 081

INCI: Caprylyl methicone
Use Levels: 2-15%
Applications: Moisturizers, cleansers, sunscreens, makeup removers
Comments: Light emollient improves spreading and leaves a silky feel. Good vehicle for pigmentary sunscreens.

Grant Industries, Inc.

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: 201 791-8700
Website: www.grantinc.com

Granactive AR-1423

INCI: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) camellia sinensis (tea) extract (and) aspalathus linearis (rooibos) extract (and) boswellia serrata extract (and) honey extract (and) tetrapeptide-14 (and) phenoxyethanol (and) sodium benzoate
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications:Daily wear, moisturizers, skin tone eveners, after sun care
Comments: Granactive AR-1423 is a unique delivery matrix which combines a redness diminishing peptide with the antioxidant properties of tea, the calming properties of boswellia serrata and the soothing quality of honey. Granactive AR-1423 contains tetrapeptide-14, a specific peptide sequence that can be used in cosmetic treatments to alleviate the redness associated with rosacea or mild sun exposure.

Granpowder Lumière

INCI (proposed):Polymethyl-silses-quioxane/benzimidazole/dia-mond copolymer
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin brighteners, concealers
Comments: Granpowder Lumière powders are micron sized polymethylsilsesquioxane spherical powders with an entrapped photoluminescent diamond composite core. As we age, our skin dramatically loses its ability to fluoresce blue and green light. This lack of fluorescence leads to a prematurely aged, and unhealthy skin appearance. Granpowder Lumière compensates for this deficiency by emitting and scattering both blue and green, emulating the emission pattern of young, healthy skin.

Gransil SiW-026

INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone (and) water (and) polysilicone-11 (and) butylene glycol (and) decyl glucoside
Use Levels: 10-50%
Applications: Foundations, color cosmetics, eye creams, facial lotion
Comments: This product is made using a unique dispersion technology that enables the formulator to rapidly combine the polysilicone-11 elastomer into water containing cosmetics without heat. Gransil SiW-026 instantly improves the skin feel perception during payout and transitions to that sought after powdery silicone-elastomer “Gransil Touch” with a soft-focus matte appearance. Ease of use, energy savings and enhanced cosmetic performance are only part of the value built into this product.

Innospec Active Chemicals

Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-321-3500
Website: www.innospecinc.com


INCI: Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate
Use Levels: Can be used as primary or secondary surfactant
Applications:Facial cleansers, shower gels
Comments: Ideal for structured formulas


Wayne, NJ
Tel:(800) 323-2272
Fax: (630) 495-0245
Email: personalcareinfo@ispcorp.com
Website: www.ispcorp.com

Chondricare IS

Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Anti-aging formulations
Comments: This new biofunctional ingredient is a synthetic pentapeptide that functions as a mimetic of the protein aconitase—a critical functional element of human cells that both stimulates cell metabolism during the Krebs cycle and protects mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) from oxidative damage —such as that caused by UVB radiation.

Dynachondrine ISR

Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Anti-aging creams, serums with longevity claims and energizingformulations linked to improving metabolic endurance
Comments:This new biofunctional ingredient is a Glycine max (soybean) extract rich in peptides biomimetic to mitochondrial respiratory chain proteins. As one part of its activity, Dynachondrine ISR focuses on mitochondrial aging by targeting one of the most advanced discoveries in longevity: sirtuins. Studies with Dynachondrine ISR have demonstrated visible benefits at the skin level, such as a better skin structure and appearance.

Jeen International

Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
E-mail: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com

Jeesilc 110

INCI: Dimethicone
Use Levels: 2-25%
Applications:Ideal for use in facial and body care emulsion and anhydrous systems, color cosmetics, pressed powders, antiperspirants and deodorants, depilatories, shaving creams and sun care.
Comments: Multi-functional emollient that is a mixture of low and high molecular weight dimethicones gives this product a much different feel than straight dimethicone offering greater slip, enhanced cushion with a cashmere soft feel.Compatible with a wide range of emollients and actives, has an exceptional sensory profile and stable in any type of formulation.Ideal for providing a fresh feel to established dimethicone containing products without any formulation and labeling changes.

Jeelux VHIPM

INCI: Isopropyl myristate & isododecane & bis vinyl dimethicone/dimeth-icone copolymer
Use Levels: 2-50%
Applications:Ideal for use in facial and body care emulsion and anhydrous systems, color cosmetics, pressed powders, antiperspirants and deodorants, depilatories, shaving creams and sun care. Can be used to create the next generation of long wear and transfer resistant products.
Comments: A silicone polymer that provides a silky slip and moisture delivered in isododecane but enhanced by the addition of an emollient ester. Upgrade your volatile formulas with ease. Add a little, and reduce the dryness while improving the feel in your volatile systems. Add a lot, and create comfortable long wear products. Jeelux VHIPM, functional as well as beneficial.

Jeelux DMIPM

INCI: Isopropyl myristate & dimethicone & bis vinyl dimethicone/di-methicone copolymer
Use Levels: 2-50%
Applications: Ideal for use in facial and body care emulsion and anhydrous systems, color cosmetics, pressed powders, antiperspirants and deodorants, depil-atories, shaving creams and sun care. It is a good replacement for cyclomethicone.
Comments: Deliver a silicone polymer that lays a veil of comfort and moisture on skin or hair. This Jeelux provides the emolliency of an ester and the protection of dimethicone while laying down a breathable silicone polymer film. This film can enhance the feel of your product while providng an excellent barrier for extended active to skin contact time. Jeelux DMIPM,excellent for your formulating needs.

Kobo Products Inc.

South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-757-0033
Fax: 908-757-0905
Email: info@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com

Flo-Beads SE-3207B

INCI: Ethylene-methyl methacrylate copolymer
Use Levels:5-10%
Applications: Anti aging products, creams and lotions
Comments: This spherical particle offers optical blurring while imparting a soft feel to the skin. It is one of the softest microspheres currently available.


INCI: Water (and) palmitoyl hydroy-propyl trimonium amylopectin/gly-cerin crosspolymer (and) camellia sinensis extract (and) lecithin
Use Levels:1-5%
Applications: Treatment, anti-aging, creams and lotions
Comments: Kobo’s Glycospheres (Gs) contain various actives which are entrapped through ionic bonding. Gs-GT delivers green tea extract to the skin.


INCI: Water (and) agar (and) polyquaternium-11 (and) retinyl palmitate (and) mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides
Use Levels:2.5-10%
Applications: Treatment and decorative cosmetics
Comments: Kobo’s Softspheres are visual beads containing actives, color, and/or fragrance. These patented beads break with pressure releasing the ingredients onto the skin. The beads can be fully rubbed into the skin leaving no residue behind.

Laboratoires Serobiologique

Division of Cognis France
Tel: 800-668-6023 ext. 251
Fax: 215-628-1450
E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis. com
Website: www.labserobio.com

Hyalurosmooth LS 8998

INCI: Water (and) cassia angustifolia seed polysaccharide
Applications: Anti-age and skin plumping face care, moisturizing face and body care, skin radiance enhancing face and body care, eye care
Use Levels: 2.5-5%
Comments: Hyalurosmooth is a botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid, both for fine line filling and intense moisturization, thanks to its dual activity. It contains polysaccharides extracted from an Indian plant, which form a protective film on the skin that strongly binds water and fills up fine lines. By providing intense moisturization (tested against benchmark sodium hyaluron-ate) the skin is additionally plumped up, which further adds to reducing fine lines and wrinkles and smoothing of the skin surface. As a result of the smoother surface, light reflection is also improved, leading to increased skin radiance. Hyaluro-smooth also has excellent sensorial properties. Skin immediately feels smooth, soft and silky.

Sphingoceryl WS LS 9859

INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract (and) decyl glucoside. Preservative: none
Applications: Color protection for dyed hair; protection/repair of hair damaged by relaxation, perming, dye; strengthening shampoos; conditioners; balms for ethnic hair; moisturizing face care; dry skin repairing body care
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Sphingoceryl WS is a preservative-free water dispersible complex of biomimetic phyto-ceramides which protects skin and hair against environmental damages. For skin, it maintains an optimum rate of hydration by strengthening the skin’s barrier function. For hair, it helps to preserve the color of dyed hair from fading after repeated washing thanks to its restructuring action on hair fibers (demonstrated in clinical tests). It also offers significant protection for ethnic hair after treatment with relaxing products. It is easy to formulate, especially in surfactant-based formulations.

Euphoryl Ω-3 LS 9846

INCI: Plukenetia volubilis seed oil (and) schinus terebinthifolius seed extract. Preservative: none
Applications:Moisturizing face care; “looking good” effect; well-being formulations; “happy cosmetics” ranges; nourishing face and body care ranges (omega-3 content); fragance-free formulations (natural scent).
Use Levels: 1-2%
Comments: What makes Euphoryl Ω-3 unique? Euphoryl Ω-3 is a combination of Sacha inchi oil, very rich in omega-3, a true skin antidepressant, and Schinus terebinthifolius (pink pepper) extract, a stimulant and invigorating agent with warm and sensual perfume notes. Thanks to its special composition, Euphoryl Ω-3 immediately improves microcirculation via dopamine stimulation (clinical demonstration) which results in an improvement of skin complexion and appearance and an overall well-being enhancing effect. Euphoryl Ω-3 is a preservative-free raw material which conforms to Ecocert standards of natural and organic cosmetics.

Lincoln Fine Ingredients

Lincoln, RI
Tel: (401) 722-2410
Email: PatLutz@LincolnFineIngredients.com
Website: www.LincolnFineIngredients.com


(All Natural Cranberry Seed Oil)
INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry seed oil)
Use Levels: 0.05-3%
Applications: Skin care, lip care products
Comments: All natural, cold pressed cranberry seed oil with high antioxidant levels and high in omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids. Is an excellent moisturizing agent with superior skin conditioning properties.

Linessential PO

(All Natural Pomegranate Seed Oil)
INCI: Punica granatum
Use Levels: 0.05-3%
Applications: Skin care and lip care products
Comments: All natural, cold pressed pomegranate seed oil with high antioxidant levels and high in omega 5 fatty acid.

Linessential RESV (All Natural)

INCI: Resveratrol
Use Levels: 0.05-1%
Applications: Anti-aging and wrinkle reducing skin products
Comments: Resvertrol powder is obtained naturally from the polygonum cuspidatum (giant knotweed plant). Is has been shown to reduce wrinkles and used as a skin protectant.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ 07504
E-mail: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Neosolue Aquilio

INCI: Bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate
Use Levels:2%
Applications: Skin care creams & lotions, foundations, decorative cosmetics
Comments: Neosolue Aquilio is an excellent emollient for water-based formulas. It has an excellent to skin and increases hydration.

Lipo SFS-5

INCI: Isododecane (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) bis behenyl/iso-stearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyldimer dilinoleate
Use Levels: 1% to greater than 50%
Applications: Skin care creams and lotions; foundations and decorative cosmetics without emulsions; sunless self-tanning, pre- and post-shaving and depilatory.
Comments: With an elegant skin-feel this product is an emollient blend that is a non-silicone replacement for cyclomethicone D5 which gives an elegant fluid feel.


INCI: Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Use Levels:1-5%
Applications:Skin care creams, lotions and treatment products, body washes, liquid makeup foundations and sun care
Comments: Excellent moisturizing through the delivery of water

Mibelle Biochemistry

Buchs, Switzerland
Tel:(41) 62-836-17-31
E-mail: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com

EpiCalmin TCM

INCI:Lonicera japonica flower extract/ xanthium sibiricum fruit extract/cyper-us rothundus root extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: For sensitive and dry skin, anti-redness products


INCI: Theobroma cacao extract
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Anti-stress, wellness and spa products


INCI: Vitex agnus castus extract
Use Levels:1-5%
Applications: Feminine hygiene products

Micro Powders, Inc.

Tarrytown, NY
E-mail: mpi@micropowders.com
Website: www.mpipersonalcare.com

Microslip 245

INCI: Polyvinylidene difluoride
Applications: Face powder, blush, mascara, eyeshadow, makeup base, sunscreen, foundation, shaving gel, creams, lotions.
Comments: Microslip products are micronized powders characterized by their excellent heat resistance and lubricity. They provide superior flow properties, enhance the texture of cosmetic formulations and reduce the oily feel associated with creams and lotions. They are useful in color cosmetics and can be utilized as a bulking agent to increase the cosmetic volume when applied. Alsoan SPF enhancer in sunscreen applications. Microslip 245 is produced from polyvinylidene difluoride which can be used as an alternative to PTFE for heat resistance and lubricity.

Microslip 684S

INCI: PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene)
Applications: Face powders, blushes, mascara, eye shadow, makeup bases, sunscreens, foundations, shaving gels, creams and lotions.
Comments: Microslip 684S is produced from 100% virgin grade polytetrafluorethylene (PTFE). It is is spherical in shape with an extra fine particle size to aid in dispersibility, lubricity and feel.

Naturebead C14

INCI: Oryza sativa (rice) bran wax/ thembroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter
Applications: Exfoliating scrub soaps, face scrubs,body scrubs, foot scrubs, creams, liquids, gels and lotions
Comments: Naturebead products are spherical powders that utilize natural waxes, designed for use as non-irritating exfoliating agents. Their spherical shape allows the particles to gently roll across the skin.

Presperse LLC

Somerset, NJ 08873
Tel: 732-356-5200
Website: www.presperse.com

Sea Mayweed SC

INCI: Aqua/water–tripeurospermum maritima extract
Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Skin care products
Comments: Skin protection, antioxidant effect, anti-inflammatory, myorelaxing and soothing effect, decreases expression lines.


INCI: Raffinose
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Cleansing cosmetics, hair, basic skin care, bath, cosmetics powder
Comments: Moisturizes the skin and hair, keeps from becoming sticky, improves skin texture, helps makeup last longer and keeps preparation from absorbing moisture and coagulating.

SiClone SR-5

INCI: C13-C16 isoparaffin, C12-C14 isoparaffin, C13-C15 alkane
Use Levels: 5-60%
Applications: Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics and personal care
Comments: 100% silicone-free, colorless liquid that provides superior spreading and lubricity properties with unique volatility and solubility characteristics.

Sabinsa Corporation

Piscataway, NJ
Tel: 732-777-1111
E-mail: info@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com


INCI: Emblica officinalis fruit extract
Use Levels: Use up to 2% in creams, lotions etc.
Applications:Anti aging and sun care


INCI: Hydroxyresveratrol
Use Levels: 0.05-0.2%
Applications: Antioxidant, skin whitening

Wacker Chemical Corporation

Adrian, MI
Tel: 888-922-5374
E-mail: info.usa@wacker.com
Website: www.wacker.com/personal-care

Wacker-Belsil RG 90

INCI: Isododecane (and) vinyldimethylsiloxy/trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels: 3-10% actives
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics and hair care
Comments: Alkyl-modified resin elastomer gel for greater formulation compatibility.

SLM 28100

INCI Proposed: Dimethicone (and) vinyldimethylsiloxy/trimethylsiloxysilicate dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels: 3-10% actives
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics and hair care
Comments: Developmental resin elastomer gel in volatile, low viscosity linear dimethicone.

SLM 28101

INCI Proposed: Dimethicone (and) vinyldimethylsiloxy/trimethylsiloxysilicate dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels: 3-10% actives
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics and hair care
Comments: Developmental resin elastomer gel in low viscosity linear dimethicone.
All three of these new, patented, film-forming elastomers offer the potential to formulate products for a wide range of personal care applications.Thus, the customer may develop skin care, color cosmetics and hair care formulations to take advantage of the inherent transfer resistance, water resistance and silky-feel properties of the hybrid material that is the active component of the elastomer-gel. Examples are sun protection, protective lotions and creams, foundations, eyeshadow, lipstick, mascara, aftershave, body wash, and hair styling