The development teams responsible for Cognis’ polymeric emulsifiers Cosmedia SP and Cosmedia SPL and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques’ Dermican anti-aging peptide have both earned the company’s internal Innovation Award 2008.
Cosmedia SP and Cosmedia SPL polymers enable manufacturers to precisely control the structural, aesthetic and sensory properties of skin care products, implying a difference compared to standard polymers on the market. In particular, they enable a very light and cushionable skin feel to be achieved, according to Cognis.
In recent years, there has been a shift in skin care products away from traditional emulsions toward gel cream formulations. Traditional polymers had two big disadvantages: firstly, they often had a negative impact on the sensorial perception of the formulation (i.e. tackiness); and secondly, they were supplied as powders that were inconvenient to handle, as they required a pre-neutralization step before being added to the emulsification process. Care Chemicals’ Cosmedia team developed a range of polymers that is said to overcome these issues and deliver additional benefits.
Dermican is a pure synthetic tetrapeptide that combines cosmetic benefits with scientifically proven results, making it consistent with the current cosmeceutical trend. By using a targeted mechanism to optimize the functionality of collagen fibers, Dermican keeps skin looking and feeling younger—a benefit of which several major skin care manufacturers are already taking advantage.
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) has designed Dermican with a unique anti-aging action that targets the metabolism of a specific proteoglycan (lumican) to enhance skin firmness. Lumican is involved in both the synthesis of collagen fibrils and their organization into functional fibers, ensuring the integrity of the extra-cellular matrix. An LS research program showed that the synthesis of this proteoglycan slows down with age. Several in vitro tests have demonstrated Dermican’s capacity to boost the synthesis of lumican and collagen I, and a clinical study has confirmed its efficacy in making the skin firmer and plumper after a four-month course of treatment. A European patent application has been filed and is currently being considered by the authorities.
“Market-driven innovations reflect the key values of our company,” said Antonio Trius, chief executive officer of Cognis.
More info: www.cognis.com