Lonza is taking a natural approach to cosmetic emulsification with the introduction of the Natrulon oleosome emulsifier series. Based on patented DermaSphere technology, Lonza’s new Natrulon oleosomes are said to be ideal for a wide range of cosmetic applications including moisturizing creams, sunscreens, ointments, lotions and color cosmetics.
The first product in the series is Natrulon OSF, a natural material based on safflower oleosomes. This one material does the job of an emollient, emulsifier and moisturizer. The pale yellow emulsion has a pH of 7.0 and viscosity of 15,000 cps (Brookfield T-A). Its chemical composition is 75% safflower oleosome and 25% water.
According to Lonza, Natrulon OSF is non-irritating, has not been tested on animals and is not made with genetically-modified organisms (GMO)—making it an ideal choice for products to be sold in Europe. Moreover, Natrulon OSF is easy to work with, explained Carl Cappabianca, global marketing and technology vice president, Lonza, Allendale, NJ.
“This is a very stable material that has applications in a wide variety of personal care products,” said Dr. Jack Guth, Lonza’s personal care technology leader. “It is self-emulsifying and cold-processable, which can save formulators a lot of time and money. In fact, formulators can create a product in less than 25 minutes.”
A Range of Benefits
According to Lonza, safflower oil triglycerides have a unique blend of unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acid. When the Natrulon OSF is applied to the skin as a cream or lotion, the safflower triglycerides in the inner core are released to provide emolliency and occlusivity. At the same time, the outer shell of the oleosome contains various hydrophilic and hydrophobic moieties, which not only impart self-emulsifying properties, but also have the ability to emulsify other oil-soluble ingredients. Without the need to add more emulsifiers, cosmetic chemists can create milder, gentler products. Natrulon OSF is recommended at 10% use levels for exfoliating creams, moisturizing lotions, lightening lotions and sunscreens. But formulators can also add as much as 10% of another oil to create a more viscous product with increased residence time on the skin.
More on the Way
Lonza selected safflower oil as the first product in the Natrulon series due to its ideal blend of oil and triglycerides. However, the company is studying other natural materials including sunflower, corn, cucumbers, pumpkin and even chili peppers, to see if the DermaSphere technology can be used to unlock their cosmetic benefits.The introduction of Natrulon OSF is part of Lonza’s plan to diversify its product line.
“Natrulon OSF is another example of Lonza’s strategy to expand our personal care platform beyond preservation,” concluded Mr. Cappabianca. “It’s in keeping with our ‘no limits’ approach to personal care.”