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Industry News



Published March 4, 2009
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Cognis Honors Creators Of Cosmedia, Dermican



The development teams responsible for Cognis’ polymeric emulsifiers Cosmedia SP and Cosmedia SPL and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques’ Dermican anti-aging peptide have both earned the company’s internal Innovation Award 2008.
     
Cosmedia SP and Cosmedia SPL polymers enable manufacturers to precisely control the structural, aesthetic and sensory properties of skin care products, implying a difference compared to standard polymers on the market. In particular, they enable a very light and cushionable skin feel to be achieved, according to Cognis.    
   
In recent years, there has been a shift in skin care products away from traditional emulsions toward gel cream formulations. Traditional polymers had two big disadvantages: firstly, they often had a negative impact on the sensorial perception of the formulation (i.e. tackiness); and secondly, they were supplied as powders that were inconvenient to handle, as they required a pre-neutralization step before being added to the emulsification process. Care Chemicals’ Cosmedia team developed a range of polymers that is said to overcome these issues and deliver additional benefits.
   
Dermican is a pure synthetic tetrapeptide that combines cosmetic benefits with scientifically proven results, making it consistent with the current cosmeceutical trend. By using a targeted mechanism to optimize the functionality of collagen fibers, Dermican keeps skin looking and feeling younger—a benefit of which several major skin care manufacturers are already taking advantage.
   
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) has designed Dermican with a unique anti-aging action that targets the metabolism of a specific proteoglycan (lumican) to enhance skin firmness. Lumican is involved in both the synthesis of collagen fibrils and their organization into functional fibers, ensuring the integrity of the extra-cellular matrix. An LS research program showed that the synthesis of this proteoglycan slows down with age. Several in vitro tests have demonstrated Dermican’s capacity to boost the synthesis of lumican and collagen I, and a clinical study has confirmed its efficacy in making the skin firmer and plumper after a four-month course of treatment. A European patent application has been filed and is currently being considered by the authorities.
   
“Market-driven innovations reflect the key values of our company,” said Antonio Trius, chief executive officer of Cognis.
    
More info: www.cognis.com

Aveda Honored by PETA



Aveda, the maker of plant-derived hair care, skin care, makeup and lifestyle products, is the recipient of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) 2008 PETA Progress (Proggy) Awards for “Best Cruelty-Free Spa Products.”
   
In its sixth year, the Proggy awards recognize animal-friendly achievements in seven categories, including clothing and accessories, companion animals, entertainment, food, personal care products, science and others.
   
PETA evaluated Aveda’s 2008 spa launches, including Green Science skin care—a line of plant-infused formulas and a high-touch professional facial treatment clinically proven to address the signs of aging.
   
Aveda was first awarded a Proggy in 2004 for its “Best Cruelty-Free Personal Care Products.” This year, the company takes the 2008 Proggy for its high-performance, cruelty-free spa products and professional treatments.
   
“Aveda is an industry leader in both quality botanically-derived products and social responsibility; every Aveda guest receives the highest level of service in the company’s spas, salons and stores,” says Tracy Reiman, vice president, PETA. “By denouncing animal tests and steering clear of animal-based ingredients, Aveda has shown that when it comes to the Aveda Mission, the company truly ‘walks its talk.’”


Batter Up: ACE Seeks Sponsors for Inhalant Awareness Program



The Alliance for Consumer Education (ACE) is teaming up with the American School Counselor Association to help expand its Inhalant Awareness Program with Minor League Baseball. This year, ACE has the chance to partner with all 12 AA teams in the Eastern League, which includes affiliated teams such as the Yankees, Red Sox, Phillies, Indians and Twins.    
   
To date, companies have agreed sponsor games in Connecticut and New York. However, ACE is seeking more sponsors to make the program a league-wide effort. Sponsorship amounts vary from $5,000-10,000.
   
ACE is looking for sponsors for one or more of the following teams: New Jersey—Trenton Thunder (New York Yankees); Ohio—Akron Aeros (Cleveland Indians); Pennsylvania—Altoona Curve (Pittsburgh Pirates), Harrisburg Senators (Washington Nationals), and Reading Phillies (Philadelphia Phillies), and Erie Seawolves (Detroit Tigers); Maryland—Bowie BaySox (Baltimore Orioles); Maine—Portland Sea Dogs (Red Sox); New Hampshire—New Hampshire Fisher Cats (Toronto Blue Jays); New York—Binghamton Mets (New York Mets); and Connecticut—Norwich, Connecticut Defenders (San Francisco Giants) and New Britain Rock Cats (Minnesota Twins).
   
More info: www.consumered.org



Cosmetic Industry Veterans Form Distribution Company



Sylvie Ganter and William Reith have formed Atelier Cologne North America Inc., which will offer a wide spectrum of sales and marketing services, including brand management and fully integrated product distribution.
   
Launching with an infrastructure to support expansion and sales growth, Atelier Cologne North America provides dynamic and entrepreneurial leadership with experienced personnel specialized in the luxury retail industry, according to the firm.
   
Ms. Ganter, chief executive officer, will focus on brand relationships while managing operations. Most recently, she was the president of Selective Beauty Corporation. Ms. Ganter has also served as the executive vice president of sales and marketing at Fresh, part of the LVMH group and the vice president of the U.S. fragrance division at Hermès.
   
Mr. Reith, president, will concentrate on retailer interactions and field activities. Mr. Reith’s background includes executive level positions in sales and marketing for the U.S. and international regions at Hermès, Fresh and Selective Beauty Corporation, where he managed the growth of Van Cleef & Arpels, By Terry, Lalique, Façonnable, Ferra-gamo and Ungaro. In addition, Mr. Reith has served as an independent brand agent for Bond No. 9.
   
The brand portfolio of Atelier Cologne North America includes Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums; Féerie, which launched exclusively with Neiman Marcus Group; Alford & Hoff, a luxury men’s skin care brand; Strange Invisible Perfumes; Balmain, a French perfumery brand; and Pure Altitude, an organic skin care line from Fermes de Marie Spas in France. Atelier Cologne North America will also be the distribution entity for Atelier Cologne, a new brand under development.


Harmony Labs Adds R&D, Manufacturing Space



Harmony Labs, Inc. has completed construction and validation on its new 135,000 sq. ft. R&D and manufacturing facility in Kannapolis, NC.  The new facility will house Harmony Labs’ research and analytical chemist team, as well as be the central location for the manufacturing of pharmaceutical, OTC and cosmetic liquids and semi-solids. 
   
With this new facility, Harmony Labs now occupies more than 200,000 square feet of operations.  Turnkey service includes on-site formulation, development, necessary analytical work including micro testing, and ICH stability and validation programs for OTC and prescription products, according to the company.
   
“This is a significant milestone in our history and one that signifies Harmony Labs’ continued commitment to being the leading expert in skin care development and manufacturing,” said Will Lynch, chief executive officer and president of Harmony Labs.  “With this new facility, our industry leading executive team, and the passion of our employees, Harmony Labs is perfectly positioned to serve the industry and provide our customers the partnership required to help them achieve their business goals.”
   
More info: www.harmonylabs.com


BASF Makes Changes to Care Chemicals Unit



BASF has announced plans to optimize its structure to sharpen the company’s focus and lay the foundation to integrate Ciba’s businesses. In particular, there are changes being made to BASF’s Performance Products segment.
   
Changes effective April 1 in the Care Chemicals division will include combining all businesses that contribute to cleaning, personal care and hygiene in addition to human and animal nutrition and pharma. In addition, the assignment of the superabsorbents business to Care Chemicals will strengthen the division’s portfolio with additional consumer-related products for personal care.
   
BASF expects the approvals of the relevant antitrust authorities and the closing of the Ciba transaction toward the end of the first quarter, and said the so-called “Discovery Phase” will begin immediately after closing. During this time, joint teams consisting of BASF and Ciba employees will analyze the acquired businesses in depth to define a market-oriented positioning for the combined businesses as well as the optimal organizational structure. The actual integration process is then expected to start in the second half of 2009 on the basis of these results.
   
More info: www.basf.com


Murad Inclusive Health Center Opens in Beaumont, TX



The Christus Health Living Spa–a Murad Inclusive Health Center was slated to open March 4 at the Christus Hospital–St. Elizabeth, located in Beaumont, TX. The day spa facility is designed to take the spa experience to the next level with individually tailored programs and treatments designed to reduce the rate of cellular aging and apply the health philosophies of Howard Murad.
   
The first Murad Inclusive Health Center was founded in Los Angeles as a place to gather a team of health, beauty and fitness experts and to train them to use Dr. Murad’s Science of Cellular Water philosophy to help people take control of the aging process. Using this “inclusive,” multi-disciplinary approach to bring inner health, outer beauty and emotional well-being, the new spa offers Dr. Murad’s science-based services and treatments designed to improve appearance and overall well-being under a physician’s supervision.


Scent in the (New York) City Courtesy of Frutarom



New York City residents are used to many smells, but one recent olfactory experience—the scent of maple syrup—caught some off guard and garnered the attention of city officials, including Mayor Michael Bloomberg. At a Feb. 5 press conference, Mayor Bloomberg addressed the smell, dispelling health concerns about the sweet aroma, which had been wafting over the metropolis. Officials traced the scent to Frutarom USA’s North Bergen, NJ factory, which is located just across the Hudson River from New York City.
   
Frutarom USA manufactures natural flavors and health ingredients derived from plants, including Fenugreek, which caused the maple syrup scent. A natural product, fenugreek has been produced at Frutarom’s North Bergen facility for more than 30 years in compliance with all laws and regulations.
   
“It’s just one of the many aromas we're going to have to live with. I can think of a few things worse than maple syrup,” Mayor Bloomberg told reporters.
   
In a statement, Frutarom officials stated, “The naming of our company as one of those potentially contributing to this condition came as a surprise to us.”
    


Henkel Laundry & Home Care Honors Suppliers



At the 2009 Soap and Detergent Association (SDA) Annual Meeting and Industry Convention, held in Boca Raton, FL, Henkel Laundry & Home Care presented its “Best Innovation Contributor 2008” to Rohm and Haas for the best contribution of an external partner delivering consumer-relevant innovation.
   
In addition, Henkel honored BASF with the “Best Supply Performance 2008” award for its outstanding operational supply performance.

CIBS Holds Holiday Ball, Presents Scholarship



The Cosmetics Industry Buyers and Suppliers Organization (CIBS) recently hosted its annual Holiday Ball at the New York Hilton Grand Ballroom. CIBS members and their guests enjoyed a festive evening of dancing and dining set in an elegant black and red themed décor.
     
The Holiday Ball
committee (from l-r): George Filippidis, Joan Raffo, Melody Sanfilippo, Mara Sole, John Morgan (chairperson), Laura Carey (co-chairperson),  Elizabeth Forsyth, Jacquelyn Holzapfel and Julie Saldinger. Not pictured: Cheryl Bisset, Laura Incerto, Donna Kenny, Dan Kroger and Lisa Waldenmeyer.
In other news, during a luncheon held at OPIA Restaurant in New York City, CIBS awarded its December scholarship in memory of Roger Caracappa to Emily Sieme, a junior at the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) in New York City.
 
Mr. Caracappa, vice president of global packaging at The Estée Lauder Companies—where he served for 36 years—was possibly the greatest mentor for aspiring young people entering the cosmetic industry, according to CIBS.  He was intrinsic to creating F.I.T.’s Master’s program in Cosmetic and Fragrance Marketing and was a long-time member and active supporter of CIBS.




J&J’s Stamatiades Speaks at CEW Newsmaker Forum



Staying in touch with the consumer and understanding her need to feel young is a big part of Johnson & Johnson’s success—even in this tough economy, said Pericles P. Stamatiades, company group chairman of the Johnson & Johnson Beauty Care Global Business Unit, during a recent Newsmaker Forum presented by the Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW).
   
At the CEW event, which was held in January, Mr. Stamatiades focused on several topics, including how Johnson & Johnson encourages innovation to the effects of the failing economy. Mr. Stamatiades’ advice was simple. “Tough times are good for tough people; keep calm and true to what you’re doing.”

CEW, a non-profit organization based in New York, has more than 4000 members in the beauty, cosmetics and fragrance industries. CEW has associated organizations in France and the UK.
   
More info: www.cew.org


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