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Sustainable Ester from AAK

Lipex SheaLight debuts at In-Cosmetics, stand J41.

Published April 12, 2013
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AAK Personal Care (stand no. J41) will launch an all-new look together with an innovative new ester at In-Cosmetics. The eco-designed ester, called Lipex SheaLight, is an extension of the company’s Lipex line of shea-based functional emollients, and is intended as a general-purpose emollient in a wide range of cosmetics.

In response to the global trend toward making skin care products lighter, particularly body lotions and facial care products, the new ester targets cosmetics brands that want to develop safe, stable formulations combining light, dry sensorial properties with a better sustainability profile. To produce esters requires an alcohol, and AAK has developed the new ester using alcohol made from renewable vegetable sources. In addition, the AAK esterification process uses less energy and more environmentally friendly catalysts than conventional direct esterification processes do.

“One of the challenges for skin care applications today is how to combine a good sustainability profile with light and attractive skin feel,” says Jari Alander, technical director, AAK Personal Care. “Eco-design is a good place to start, as is the development of ingredients like Lipex SheaLight, which delivers just about everything one could want from an ester—light skin feel, stability and all the benefits of shea, in combination with soft processing and responsibly harvested raw materials.”

From a safety standpoint, Lipex SheaLight has been successfully tested for eye and mucous membrane irritation, as well as for skin irritancy and sensitization potential. It has also been found to be readily biodegradable with no accumulation of breakdown products in the environment. Regarding sensory properties, an evaluation by a trained sensory panel confirms that Lipex SheaLight imparts a light and silky skin feel. Lipex SheaLight can be used alone or in combination with other esters, vegetable oils, shea butters, silicone oils and synthetic emollients when formulating everyday skin care products.

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