Expert's Opinion

Forever Young

By Sam Dhatt, DermaQuest Skin Therapy | November 15, 2010

Fresh formulations are expanding the anti-aging skin care market.

Just as the anti-aging industry strives to keep its customers perpetually youthful, the market for anti-aging products itself remains robust and seemingly evergreen, even in the face of economic turndown. According to market research publisher Global Analysts, Inc., anti-aging product sales will reach $291.9 billion worldwide by 2015 (

Today’s well-informed consumer demands quantifiable results from an anti-aging skin care regimen. Specific expectations of anti-aging products include:
• Erase existing/ prevent future wrinkles
• Restore elasticity
• Refine texture
• Accelerate healing and resiliency
• Reverse current/prevent future hyperpigmentation
• Reduce erythema (redness) caused by capillary damage

This discerning customer is well-aware that some of the products and medi-procedures which address the signs of aging may trigger an inflammatory cascade response, and that inflammation now is recognized as a leading source of visible aging. I call this the Baby Boomer’s Conundrum!

With all of these expectations in mind, manufacturers are wise to examine their product rosters and explore retooling products not only to enhance their effectiveness, but also to reduce the likelihood of inflammation. Consumers are also especially attuned to skin care and cosmetic products which are suitable post-procedure, products which are eco-conscious and sustainable, and versatile products which multi-task.

The most cutting-edge formulas contain one or more of these ingredients:

Benefit: Increases oxygen-supply to skin, resulting in faster wound-healing, reduced redness, reduced scarring—all relevant to clients engaging in medi-procedures such as microdermabrasion.
Ideal for: professional hydrating gel masks, as well as camouflage and concealer cosmetics used following an ablative procedure.

Skinasensyl (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15)
Benefit: Raises pain-tolerance in skin. Ideal as an ingredient in products applied to skin prior to medi-procedures to reduce discomfort. Also ideal in follow-up products used post-procedure, to reduce inflammation, and shorten recovery-time after the procedure.
Ideal for: incorporation into a full array of products offered to clients who seek microdermabrasion and laser treatments. Especially suited to post-procedure recovery face cream complexes and ointments, to make the healing process more comfortable.

DermaQuest has harnessed Skinasensyl Peptide in its new Delicate Skin Cleanser and Cream, and both products deliver potent anti-aging support to sensitive skin.

Dermasyr 10/Verbascocide (Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract)
Benefit: This botanical stem-cell derivative partners well with highly active, acidic ingredients, such as peels and acne treatments, compensating for their potentially inflammatory effects on the skin. Strong antioxidant action scavenges free radicals, arresting and in some instances reversing damage incurred by UV, cigarette smoke and other environmental assault which contribute to visible aging. Protects and restores damaged barrier function. Soothing, non-inflammatory. Sustainable botanical source.

As a renewable plant stem cell this component represents one of the most tcompelling current ingredient technology breakthroughs. Because this ingredient functions best at a low pH (5.0), it’s ideal for products containing glycolic, lactic, salicylic, trichloroacetic (TCA), madelic or malic acids, to prevent irritation.

DermaQuest has harnessed Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract in Glycolic Acid Resurfacer with Stem Cells, an advanced, professional-only anti-aging product which helps increase cellular turnover, provides antioxidant support, assists with the release of comedones, and stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and glycosoaminoglycans.

Ingredient: Argan Oil (Argania spinosa)
Benefit: High concentration of antioxidant tocopherols (vitamin E). Fights free radical damage. Non-irritating. Sustainable botanical source. Contains 80% unsaturated fatty acids, with 45% oleic acids and 35% linoleic acids—more than double the concentration of antioxidant tocopherols present in olive oil. Ideal for hydrating and humectant formulas developed for alipoid conditions.

Ingredient: BVOSC (Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate)
Benefit: Stimulates collagen production, making wrinkles and surface-damage less pronounced. Restores more firm, “plump” structure to tissues and skin. Inhibits melanogenesis, preventing darkened areas or hyperpigmentation, commonly associated with aging as the result of photodamage.

As the most stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C available, this compound is ideal for use in moisturizers, especially intensive overnight treatments. Ideal in products for preventive maintenance, as well as for mature or damaged skin.

About the Author
With more than 20 years in the skin care industry, Sam Dhatt is the president and chief executive officer of DermaQuest Skin Therapy. Educated at GND University, where he received an M.S. in Chemistry, Dhatt went on to get an M.B.A. from Poona University, both in India. After formulating and manufacturing for 700+ skin care companies, he decided it was time to create a unique and effective line of his own that merged science, beauty and his own insights, and created DermaQuest in 1999.

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