Expert's Opinion

The Shining

By Philip Pelusi, Internationally recognized stylist and product artist | January 3, 2011

Consumers crave healthy, shiny hair, explains Phillip Pelusi.

Shinier hair is really one of the most frequent requests from clients when they come to the salon.What we are really talking about here is healthier appearing hair.The healthier the hair, the shinier the hair.This can be seen if you compare the condition of the hair at the root where there is little or no damage to its condition at the ends.

Most clients equate shinier hair with a styling product.This can be true if the product contains the right combination of ingredients that penetrate the cuticle to enhance the hair fabric.However, many products on the market contain silicones that leave a coating on the hair to temporarily mask damage and create a more reflective surface.Sometimes these coatings can also create an even worse situation on damaged hair because they are not water soluble and can build up, weighing hair down and even inhibiting even color application.

Instead choose a product line that works from the inside of the hair instead of masking the outside.Look for products containing top quality, smart technology organic ingredients that penetrate to hair’s damaged keratin sites that continually rebuilds and resurfaces the hair.This repaired hair fiber is smoother with a more reflective surface revealing shinier hair.

The lack of shine stems from a damaged or missing cuticle layer that scatters light instead of reflecting it.It is also a sign of inner hair damage.Although color, chemicals, heat styling, sun and chlorine exposure are major causes of hair damage, even untreated hair longer than an inch may be damaged by routine cleansing and styling.Hair, or as we refer to hair it as “hair fabric,” needs to be viewed by the client as the most important fabric they wear on their body.We wear our hair every day.And because almost all hair is damaged hair, most clients need to have a hair repair product as part of their regime.

Look for a product with organic conditioners such as shea butter, horsetail and almond oil; strengthening protein derived from rice bran; antioxidants from pomegranate, tomato, oolong, white and green teas; and the organic moisturizers shea butter and rice bran oil.

Also, the product must be easy to use and fits your hair care routine.Routine instant conditioning is preferred as most clients do not have the time for a deep conditioning treatment.Select a product that can be blown dry and flat ironed into the hair.If it is easy to use then clients will be much more likely to use it in their busy lives. For example, Tela Healer, Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi.

Although conditioning is the primary way to enhance shine, the styling process is another treatment to quickly create lustrous, shiny, healthy looking hair.Choose a product that is at least 95% organic and that works from the inside of the hair fabric instead of only coating the outside. If you are looking for smoother hair without using heavy silicones, choose a product with a balance of deep penetrating organic conditioning in combination with polymers that penetrate into the cuticle to build body and protect against thermal damage that may be caused by heated styling tools.

For big volume look for organic ingredients such as Chinese orchid and Mongolian oak that are enhanced by Micro Emulsion Technology for deep penetration.These deep penetrating organic plant extracts weightlessly attach themselves to and inside the hair fabric, literally creating a brand new thicker, fuller texture by building strength and improving hair fabric from the inside and making hair fabric styles easier and lasts longer.

For additional strength and body, naturally derived fruit acids from bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, orange and lemon correct alkaline damage, while betaine derived from sugar beet binds essential moisture deep within the hair fabric. Check out Tela Boost, Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi.

For smoother silkier hair, it is imperative to correct alkaline damage with naturally derived fruit acids from bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, orange and lemon.These alpha-hydroxy acids penetrate into the hair, performing an “acid rinse” that buffers pH and constricts the cuticle, reducing hair’s diameter and adding strength.

Amino acids derived from impart moisturization as naturally derived wheat and vegetable proteins penetrate deeply into the hair fabric, reacting with damaged keratin to strengthen internally while a strengthening polymer with thermal protection compliments the action of the naturally derived ingredients.

Look for organic thermal protectants derived from fig, plum, fennel, green tea and grape seed to bind moisture and help create amazingly silky texture that resists reverting in humidity as well as organic horsetail and wolfberry help strengthen and protect.

One of the easiest ways to create and keep shinier hair is to prevent damage from the sun. The ultra violet rays from the sun are just as damaging to the hair and scalp as they are to the rest of the body.Ultra Violet light degrades or breaks down the outer and inner layers of the hair fiber.This creates potholes in the hair creating a bumpy and non-reflective surface.Therefore the hair looks dull and lifeless, lacking the shine of healthy hair.

Find a hair groom that contains an SPF.Just like you would apply a sunscreen everyday to your face, apply this sun guard hair groom to your hair and scalp.This will filter the sun’s rays keeping damage away.Hair maintains its strength and therefore its shine.Also look for a product that contains organic ingredients that help to create shine by smoothing the cuticle with natural plant proteins like organic wolfberry and milk thistle. Try Tela Guardian SPF 18, Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi.

And lastly if the hair is already very damaged and split, not only get on a good hair repair regime but also select a product that can help camouflage the damage with top quality organic ingredients that will not build up on the hair.Look for organic acai, argan and sweet almond oil.Apply a bit of this product before blowing hair to protect it from heat and a bit more afterwards to gloss and groom that ragged and split fabric to create shine and seal ends.

About the Author
Philip Pelusi is an internationally recognized stylist, photographer and product artist. Having gone from one salon to 13 locations as well as a magnificent industry centerpiece in New York City, Pelusi has created a philosophy, a product line, P2 by Philip Pelusi and systems for success.Philip created and trademarked, within the industry, the phrase “A Cut Above The Rest” to coincide with his creation of the registered Volumetric haircutting technique around which he built his empire.

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