Expert's Opinion

Back To Basics

By Shannon Gallogly, National Education & Training Manager, DECLu00c9OR | April 8, 2011

A closer look at cleansers and how we cleanse the skin.

From Clarisonic to Olay’s Pro-X, mechanical agents have hit the mass market and have consumers asking for more immediate and frequent results. The latest technology has estheticians taking a much closer look at cleansers and how we cleanse our skin. It’s often the first step in our skin care regime and can be tailored to consumers’ individual needs.

Consumers now have access to these new mechanical brushes and agents but there does not seem to be a lot of information on how and why to cleanse. It’s our job as estheticians to educate consumers on how and what products are the best to use to really cleanse our skin, especially as technology offers more abrasive cleansing options. As consumers get their hands on more hi-tech products, we need to bring them back to the basics.

Using a hi-tech cleansing agent and water is not the only way to clean. DECLÉOR follows the European style of cleansing skin which doesn’t use a lot of water on the skin. Water, especially hard water found in Europe, may have alcohol, fluoride, and hard minerals and can be poorly filtrated, all of which can wreck havoc on our skin. As such, DECLÉOR offers Aroma Cleansing – Cleansing Water, which is a rinse-free formulation that gives consumers the option of cleansing without water.This is a great approach for people who have rosacea or sensitive skin that could actually be irritated by even the water they are using to cleanse their skin.

Consumers who tend to have problematic or acneic skin or who live in environments with a lot of harsh external factors that can negatively affect their skin need a deeper cleanse. These skin types need a really deep cleansing product or, I like to recommend, a double cleanse. DECLÉOR’s Aroma White C+ Brightening Cleansing Oil is a great option because it can be used in the double cleansing process. The oil will emulsify and rid the skin of superficial impurities and can be used in conjunction with a foaming cleanser.

DECLÉOR’s Aroma White C+ Cleansing Oil has ingredients such as sweet almond to remove impurities and Red Palm to hydrate and protect the skin. A cleansing oil is perfect for consumers who prefer the double cleanse approach since it is light enough to effectively cleanse skin without drying it out or stripping it and thus, compromising its pH balance. Consumers can use an oil in conjunction with a foaming cleanser and it’s the perfect solution for problematic skin.

Consumers should choose a foaming cleanser, like DECLÉOR’s Aroma White C+ Brightening Cleansing Foam, and look for an exfoliating ingredient, such as Papaya which will actually dissolve dirt and is also great to use with a mechanical agent. Foaming cleansers work with water to deeply penetrate the layers of the skin. Consumers should look for cleansers that have ingredients in them to counteract and neutralize water, such as essential oils and essential waters of lavender and petitgrain. They work by purifying impurities that might be left behind on the skin.Essential waters of orange, kiwi, mallow and oak milk will soften any effect of hard water on the skin. I also recommend using a toner as an after splash to restore the pH balance within the skin and ensure it is left perfectly cleansed and balanced.

Consumers also need to keep in mind that they can over do it with medical grade ingredients and too much exfoliation from mechanical agents. Frequent use of products that contain lactic acid and alpha hydroxy acids can actually dry skin out.Estheticians need to explain to consumers that moderation is key in skin care routines.

While technology increasingly offers more effective products and treatments, consumers should judiciously integrate them into their skin care routines. Using too much can actually have an adverse effect on the skin and it is best not to use all of them all at once. We need to explain to look for softening agents and to balance stronger cosmeceuticals with natural regimens.

Cleansing the skin is the first step in our skincare regimens and if it isn’t done properly all the next steps and treatments won’t be as effective. We need to ensure that consumers are educated and understand why they should choose particular cleansers and how to use them effectively and in conjunction with the latest mechanical agents. Technology is only going to continue to give consumers more high tech and stronger options that tout better results.However, we need to remind consumers of the basics and help them chose the right product to enhance their skin care regimen, not hinder it.

About the Author
With more than 12 years of experience in beauty and wellness, Shannon Gallogly has become one of the most in demand estheticians and educational training managers in the industry. Currently, she is the national education and training manager for premiere Parisian skin and body care brands, DECLÉOR and CARITA, where she travels the country and the world educating retailers, estheticians and spas about products and treatment protocols for both brands. Gallogly’s extensive experience and education has landed her positions with some of the biggest names in the beauty industry including Yonka, Elémis, La thérapie, Sothys, Murad, and SkinCeuticals and Estée Lauder.

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