Spring is a time of nature’s rebirth from the cold days of winter. And the same is true for our client’s hair and scalps. And like any seasonal transition, this is time for us to help our clients renew their hairstyles and hair and scalp condition. Over the many years I have spent consulting with my salon clients, the spring season brings special needs to their hair and scalps when transitioning from the negative effects of winter into healthier looking spring hair styles. Also in spring, more than any other time of year, clients are more likely to sport a new spring style for that emotional transition from the blues of winter.
Meeting the emotional needs of our clients via their hair and external appearance is nothing new to the salon industry. So it’s important that we stay current with hair trends to always bring something new and relevant to our clientele, thus continuing to validate our consultive value by being perceived as a trend expert. This type of thinking also creates the opportunity to consult on the conditioning needs of our clients as they transition from one hair environment to another. This spring several trends are rocking the runways with looks that are unique and yet easily transitioned from runway to real-way looks for our clients.
One of the biggest trends for Spring 2014 are “Bobs.” Although they are a classic style that can be worn season to season and year after year, the last major bob trend was sometime in the mid 80’s. But this spring the look maintains its classic lines but with a very fresh and casual, modern elegance. Many stars, including Kelly Osbourne, Rhianna, and Elisabeth Moss of the hit show “Mad Men;” not to mention that many more models are walking the red carpet with bob hairstyles.
My International Design Team and I created some hot bob looks at a recent spring style photo shoot. This season’s bobs are all soft and moveable but can have different textures ranging from a smooth and silky straight bob to one with slight bend or wavy texture. Hair color for bobs should complement the style of the cut. Color can be worn with a more solid hue for a solid bottom line bob, or with variegated, multi-dimensional highlights for a shattered bottom line.
No matter what the texture or color, the common tread among all of this season’s bob trends it that they require hair be in excellent condition for that bob-style swing and shine. Whether transitioning from winter to spring or not, the client needs the expertise of their stylist to provide the best service that includes a thorough analysis of both hair and scalp as part of their style transformation.
It is important that bob-styled clients are given an in-salon a hydrating hair and scalp treatment and is put on a consistent, at home follow-up regime using a deep conditioning treatment. This regime will help restore winter-dry, damaged hair and scalp to a softer, more-healthy condition for spring; maintaining the hydrated condition necessary for their new bob hair style. It is important to recommend a treatment that fits their texture, helping to ensure a positive outcome of their style by preventing further moisture loss.
Look for moisture binding ingredients such as Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium PCA if their texture is medium to thick. These are powerhouse moisture binders and care must be taken with clients with finer hair textures. And since I believe in taking a skin-care approach to cleansing and conditioning the hair, these moisturizing agents also work incredibly well to hydrate a dry, winter-worn scalp. Try P2 by Philip Pelusi Deep Hydrating Hair and Scalp Treatment. For finer textures, instead opt for a deep conditioner with weightless humectants such as Cassia Angustifolia Seed, Matricaria and Asafetida that won’t weigh hair down. Try P2 by Philip Pelusi Intense Hydrating Treatment. I also recommend teaching clients different styling techniques with style-appropriate products so they are not locked into just one smooth bob, but instead have style versatility to wear the hair smooth or full.
One of the next hot looks for spring 2014 is “Mermaid Waves.” This look is long, loose and relaxed. Nothing perfectly curled or contrived here. The look is a natural and healthy with unencumbered waves and a light amount of body. It is generally styled with a center part, but also a deep side part can also work well to be on trend. Hair color for mermaid waves is soft and subtle and should be more solid, but can have soft dimensional highlights that do not vary drastically in level or tone from the base color. No heavy streaks or highlighted lines. Instead everything looks very blended and natural. My International Design Team and I created this trend for the design house “A Detacher.”
The hair for this season’s Mermaid Wave trend should have a full, light, clean and fluffy appearance. Nothing heavy or overtly shiny, just healthy, fresh looking hair. To get this hair trend started off right, begin with a clean slate by removing any winter product build up and scalp debris with a specialized hair and scalp deep cleansing shampoo. This should be done in the salon and continued with an at-home follow-up program to maintain the look and the results. Look for a clarifying shampoo cleansing treatment that takes a skin care approach to cleansing the hair and scalp, so it won’t strip hair, while simultaneously helping protect hair color and increasing strength and shine. Also look for a specialized high-tech scalp cleansing system that includes a Tall Oil cleanser derived from Pine Trees that gently removes excess DHT-containing sebum from the scalp. DHT (Dihydrotestosterone) is believed to be toxic to hair follicles. This system does not inhibit or in any way affect the production of Testosterone or its conversion to DHT, but instead helps cleanse away excess follicle-toxic DHT that when left unchecked can literally strangle a healthy follicle, impeding its ability to produce healthy hair. This type of cleansing system works in a similar fashion to the way produce cleansers work to remove toxic pesticides from the surface of fruit and vegetables.
Also look for scalp balancing ingredients such as Ivy, Whortleberry and Watercress that help to maintain the scalp’s pH balance and helps normalize the production of too much sebum. Along with regular gentle cleansing, proper sebum production helps to keep hair in a light, clean and fluffy state. P2 by Philip Pelusi DeTox Shampoo Treatment leaves hair in this ultra-clean state to produce the natural volume and bounce perfect for this season’s Mermaid Wave trend. This type of detoxifying treatment is also a great first step for the aforementioned deep hydrating hair and scalp treatments to get the best and deepest saturation of humectants.
And last, another big trend for this spring season is the “Romantic Updo.” These soft yet sculptural styles dazzled the red carpets for the Golden Globes and SAG awards. The Romantic Updo has a lot of depth and visual interest often incorporating multiple embellishments including twist, braids and knots. My International Design Team and I took this trend to a new, dynamic level for the couture design house Venexiana. These incredible hair sculptures are the perfect complement to a fancy dress, wedding gown, or prom gown for the upcoming spring season. To create this look start with “late in the day” or “second day hair.” This will help make hair easier to work with. Mist on and brush thru a multifunctional weightless hair refresher containing Sunflower Seed Extract to add texture and freshen the hair. This type of multi-functional hair refresher is an essential part of any spring hair product wardrobe to help with style changes and enhance and control texture as air temperatures and humidity levels transition higher in spring. Look for one that is free of heavy styling resins so the hair stays pliable and not crisp. Try P2 by Philip Pelusi RefresHair. You can also mist it on clean hair to create control and texture or use it was a finishing spray for light hold.
Next, create a center part and twist hair working down to nape of the hair and pin into place working with a honey based hair shaping product to add control and moisture. Choose one that contains honey humectants to control frizzies and brittle ends therefore helping replenish moisture lost thru the winter season. Try P2 by Philip Pelusi Honey. Next, pull the remaining loose hair together and create a low bun braiding the remaining section of hair and twist and wrap around or under the bun and pin to secure. Mist again with the multi-functional hair refresher to help hold hair and create shine.
Philip Pelusi is an internationally recognized stylist, photographer and product artist. Having gone from one salon to 13 locations as well as a magnificent industry centerpiece in New York City, Pelusi has created a philosophy, two product lines, P2 by Philip Pelusi and Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi and systems for success. Philip created and trademarked, within the industry, the phrase “A Cut Above The Rest” to coincide with his creation of the registered Volumetric haircutting technique around which he built his empire.
More info: www.philippelusi.com