Suki Kramer, founder, formulator and CEO of Suki Skincare02.02.15
The American lip care industry increased by 9% from 2012 to 2014, according to new researchfrom Mintel. This increase in industry size means there are more options than ever – not just for chapping, drying and dehydration, but also for glossing, tinting, inflating, filling and more.
And, it follows, that this also means consumers will have a harder time sorting out the good (natural, effective, non-irritating) from the bad (synthetic, inflammatory, underperforming). Whether the preference is for a nude gloss, high-glam color or a simple matte protectant, it’s vital for everyone to start with the same healthful base. Professionals can help their clients find the best lip treatments for them by stocking products consumers can assume are free from toxins, petrochemicals and synthetics in their salons and spas at the outset. If a consumer can rely on a professional’s judgment, then their choice all comes down to personal preference of color, texture, finish and performance.
But what about actually treating the delicate skin of the lips? Unlike all the other skin on our bodies, which can vary person to person – oily, dry, or acne-prone – everyone has the same type of skin on his or her lips, so lip care regimens can be pretty much identical across the board. Our lips are made up of thin ceramide lipid layers, and when these layers are stripped away, our lips become dry, cracked and sore. Lips need more care and protection than the rest of our skin because the only source of moisture that they have naturally is saliva, and that can sometimes be a drawback, creating dryness when we lick our lips rather than protecting it with what, on the rest of our body, would be the sweat or sebaceous glands that produce a lubricant that locks in moisture.
So, lips are mostly on their own against irritants like food and drink, pollutants and the environment, and the harsher elements of winter and summer. Unfortunately, many of us get caught in a cycle of dryness using typical petroleum-based lip balms and chap sticks. No matter how many times a day we reapply our lip treatments, (and we must, due to their oily, “rub-, wear-, eat-off” nature) they never do seem to do what they are supposed to do. That’s because, if they are doing their job, the sum total of petroleum-based balms’ effect is to provide a coating to the lips. They do not moisturize, they are not formulated to be absorbable, and the ingredients are not at all nourishing or nutritive. And, petrochemicals are less moisturizing than emollient, 100% pure balms that actually allow your lips to “breathe,” or have moisture exchange with your environment. There is also that side effect of petrochemicals being from the crude oil industry, which is anything but natural, and their byproducts, such as dioxin, are known to cause an array of serious health problems, including cancers and endocrine disruption.Other commonly occurring lip balm ingredients to avoid include preservatives, dyes and fragrances in the top three, as these unnatural ingredients are known toxins as well.
Look for lip care products made with 100% natural ingredients with a foundation of beeswax to create a long-wear barrier sealing any potential cracks from infection and irritation. Botanicals like chamomile, skin mimicking oils, shea butter, cocoa butter and vitamin E all help to heal and nourish the delicate lip tissue and moisturize lips without the risk of putting something that you definitely wouldn’t want in your body on your mouth. Unfortunately, finding a lip treatment labeled “all natural” isn’t always enough. Label reading is a must, always, no matter where you are shopping. Some natural products are actually made with synthetics or VSA’s (volatile synthetic actives) that can cause irritation, inflammation, and worsen existing problems. Eve traditionally used ingredients like menthol or camphor should be avoided as they will cause any dry lip to swell and sting. Finally, keep in mind that balm sticks you apply directly to your lips are easier to keep sanitary than the tubes or jars you dip your finger into, however, all you need do is swipe the top with a tissue soaked in some vodka or any edible 100 proof alcohol, and all will be good to go!
For everyday smooth, soft lips, the best regimen to recommend is an exfoliate first, and a long-wear protective balm second and often. A truly great exfoliate cleanser can slough off dead lip skin without being at all harsh. Recommend a sugar scrub, the best choice here rather than salts, pits or synthetic scrubs, which, with their granular, hard or square shapes, can tear and cause irritation. Next, recommend that clients use a long-lasting, moisturizing balm to calm and protect lips, allow for permeability, and relieve cracks and tears. If you want to wear lipstick, a lipstick primer is encouraged, as it can prevent the color from bleeding or traveling and also serves as a barrier against the skin’s oils. Next, many makeup artists recommend using a lip liner on the entire lip followed by one or two coats of blotted lipstick.
When stocking a product line, professionals will want to have everything from the 100% natural basics to the upper echelon of luxury to products for clients who tend to wear more color to those who want a bit of superficial “help” not necessarily treatment. Danuta Mieloch, of Rescue Spa in Philadelphia, uses only nature-based products, particularly those that combine natural ingredients and scientific innovation. On the type of products she chooses to sell, she says, “I truly believe that beautiful skin is a matter of choice, not chance and that it is never too late to start taking care of it.” As far as taking good care of the skin, certainly, a good-quality sugar scrub and a moisturizing lip balm are the necessities. For clients who want to get rid of vertical lines on their lips, a collagen booster is a good addition, as it works as a lip plumper for clients looking for a fuller lip. Sam Wong Salon in Frederick, Maryland says, “We minimize the amount of toxic chemicals that our clients are exposed to in everyday personal care products by offering healthier alternatives.” Wong’s salon refuses to sell products that are made with any toxic chemicals, and also promotes fair-trade, eco-friendliness and workers’ rights.
With the rapid entry of new lip care products into the marketplace, sometimes it is that much harder to decipher what will work and what won’t. Professionals can help their clients navigate by actually helping them solve the root of their irritated lip problems and preventing damage, rather than just temporarily soothe symptoms and salons and spas can offer total long-term solutions and prevention for painful, dry, dehydrated and cracked lips, helping consumers adopt a lip care philosophy that will lead to having and maintaining healthy, soft lips over the long haul.
About the expert
Suki Kramer is founder, formulator & president of suki® skincare, ia progressive, independent natural skin care pioneer committed to challenging beauty industry assumptions, advocating for women’s health, education and empowerment.
And, it follows, that this also means consumers will have a harder time sorting out the good (natural, effective, non-irritating) from the bad (synthetic, inflammatory, underperforming). Whether the preference is for a nude gloss, high-glam color or a simple matte protectant, it’s vital for everyone to start with the same healthful base. Professionals can help their clients find the best lip treatments for them by stocking products consumers can assume are free from toxins, petrochemicals and synthetics in their salons and spas at the outset. If a consumer can rely on a professional’s judgment, then their choice all comes down to personal preference of color, texture, finish and performance.
But what about actually treating the delicate skin of the lips? Unlike all the other skin on our bodies, which can vary person to person – oily, dry, or acne-prone – everyone has the same type of skin on his or her lips, so lip care regimens can be pretty much identical across the board. Our lips are made up of thin ceramide lipid layers, and when these layers are stripped away, our lips become dry, cracked and sore. Lips need more care and protection than the rest of our skin because the only source of moisture that they have naturally is saliva, and that can sometimes be a drawback, creating dryness when we lick our lips rather than protecting it with what, on the rest of our body, would be the sweat or sebaceous glands that produce a lubricant that locks in moisture.
So, lips are mostly on their own against irritants like food and drink, pollutants and the environment, and the harsher elements of winter and summer. Unfortunately, many of us get caught in a cycle of dryness using typical petroleum-based lip balms and chap sticks. No matter how many times a day we reapply our lip treatments, (and we must, due to their oily, “rub-, wear-, eat-off” nature) they never do seem to do what they are supposed to do. That’s because, if they are doing their job, the sum total of petroleum-based balms’ effect is to provide a coating to the lips. They do not moisturize, they are not formulated to be absorbable, and the ingredients are not at all nourishing or nutritive. And, petrochemicals are less moisturizing than emollient, 100% pure balms that actually allow your lips to “breathe,” or have moisture exchange with your environment. There is also that side effect of petrochemicals being from the crude oil industry, which is anything but natural, and their byproducts, such as dioxin, are known to cause an array of serious health problems, including cancers and endocrine disruption.Other commonly occurring lip balm ingredients to avoid include preservatives, dyes and fragrances in the top three, as these unnatural ingredients are known toxins as well.
Look for lip care products made with 100% natural ingredients with a foundation of beeswax to create a long-wear barrier sealing any potential cracks from infection and irritation. Botanicals like chamomile, skin mimicking oils, shea butter, cocoa butter and vitamin E all help to heal and nourish the delicate lip tissue and moisturize lips without the risk of putting something that you definitely wouldn’t want in your body on your mouth. Unfortunately, finding a lip treatment labeled “all natural” isn’t always enough. Label reading is a must, always, no matter where you are shopping. Some natural products are actually made with synthetics or VSA’s (volatile synthetic actives) that can cause irritation, inflammation, and worsen existing problems. Eve traditionally used ingredients like menthol or camphor should be avoided as they will cause any dry lip to swell and sting. Finally, keep in mind that balm sticks you apply directly to your lips are easier to keep sanitary than the tubes or jars you dip your finger into, however, all you need do is swipe the top with a tissue soaked in some vodka or any edible 100 proof alcohol, and all will be good to go!
For everyday smooth, soft lips, the best regimen to recommend is an exfoliate first, and a long-wear protective balm second and often. A truly great exfoliate cleanser can slough off dead lip skin without being at all harsh. Recommend a sugar scrub, the best choice here rather than salts, pits or synthetic scrubs, which, with their granular, hard or square shapes, can tear and cause irritation. Next, recommend that clients use a long-lasting, moisturizing balm to calm and protect lips, allow for permeability, and relieve cracks and tears. If you want to wear lipstick, a lipstick primer is encouraged, as it can prevent the color from bleeding or traveling and also serves as a barrier against the skin’s oils. Next, many makeup artists recommend using a lip liner on the entire lip followed by one or two coats of blotted lipstick.
When stocking a product line, professionals will want to have everything from the 100% natural basics to the upper echelon of luxury to products for clients who tend to wear more color to those who want a bit of superficial “help” not necessarily treatment. Danuta Mieloch, of Rescue Spa in Philadelphia, uses only nature-based products, particularly those that combine natural ingredients and scientific innovation. On the type of products she chooses to sell, she says, “I truly believe that beautiful skin is a matter of choice, not chance and that it is never too late to start taking care of it.” As far as taking good care of the skin, certainly, a good-quality sugar scrub and a moisturizing lip balm are the necessities. For clients who want to get rid of vertical lines on their lips, a collagen booster is a good addition, as it works as a lip plumper for clients looking for a fuller lip. Sam Wong Salon in Frederick, Maryland says, “We minimize the amount of toxic chemicals that our clients are exposed to in everyday personal care products by offering healthier alternatives.” Wong’s salon refuses to sell products that are made with any toxic chemicals, and also promotes fair-trade, eco-friendliness and workers’ rights.
With the rapid entry of new lip care products into the marketplace, sometimes it is that much harder to decipher what will work and what won’t. Professionals can help their clients navigate by actually helping them solve the root of their irritated lip problems and preventing damage, rather than just temporarily soothe symptoms and salons and spas can offer total long-term solutions and prevention for painful, dry, dehydrated and cracked lips, helping consumers adopt a lip care philosophy that will lead to having and maintaining healthy, soft lips over the long haul.
About the expert
Suki Kramer is founder, formulator & president of suki® skincare, ia progressive, independent natural skin care pioneer committed to challenging beauty industry assumptions, advocating for women’s health, education and empowerment.