The Skin Care Market

November 9, 2005

The use of vitamins continues to grow as more dermatologists ener the skin care category

Skin makes the first impression in every situation. And since everyone wants to put their best face forward, skin care products sales remain strong. This spring, product innovations continue to follow trends that have been set in recent years. Consumers demand natural-based, antioxidant-rich products to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles and prevent future damage.

Procter & Gamble’s Oil of Olay was the No. 1 brand last year in the facial moisturizer category with sales of nearly $80 million, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), Chicago. In keeping with current beauty trends, Oil of Olay combines not only the latest ingredients, but satisfies time restraints facing the modern woman, especially in her beauty routine.

“Women want products that can not only provide skin beauty benefits, but also improve skin health,” said Anitra Marsh, communications manager for Oil of Olay. “Women are multi-taskers and need multiple benefits in one product. It’s not just about surface aesthetics anymore.”

Often in the industry there is a tradeoff between skin beauty products and skin health products, said Ms. Marsh. P&G has developed a new, premium anti-aging product, Olay Total Effects, which delivers both health and beauty benefits through exfoliation and improved moisture barrier repair. It fights seven signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, pore size, texture, tone, surface dullness and dryness.

VitaNiacin, a multivitamin package consisting of Vitamin A, Vitamin B5 and Niacinimide that, when formulated in Olay Total Effects, has a wide range of anti-aging properties to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, pores, texture, dryness and surface dullness and tone for women over 25. The VitaNiacin package, which is exclusive to Olay Total Effects, will also debut next month.

Another product, Olay Daily Facials, is the only lathering cleansing cloth that provides deep cleansing, exfoliation and conditioning in one step. Both Olay products will be available at food, drug and mass retailers next month.

“Women want products that will bring them pleasure,” explained Florence Guillier Bernard, vice president of Lavipharm Laboratories, Inc. These products include all-natural products, anti-pollution skin care products that protect skin from the environment and products with quick results.

“The way to achieve this is to develop high-tech delivery systems that improve traditional active ingredients. Chattem’s pHisoderm blemish patch, developed in partnership with Lavipharm, can deliver active ingredients to blemishes with consistent concentration,” said Ms. Bernard.

Lavipharm is working on personalized developments for anti–aging, anti–brown spots, moisturizing and anti-blemish formulations. PHisoderm products are available in supermarket and drug store in the U.S.

Take Your Vitamins
Vitamins have become a key ingredient in skin care products, bringing back memories of mom telling us to chew our Flinstones. But now, vitamins can go on our skin as well as our mouths.

EC Mode, Indianapolis, IN, began adding pure vitamin C to their products in the early 1980s, according to the company, but it was not until 1992 that the importance of antioxidants, including vitamins, became common knowledge.

“According to our chief chemist, Dr. Keith Alt, many vitamins taken internally can also be used externally,” said Tom Porter, president of EC Mode. “For example, a great deal of vitamin C is excreted through the hair follicles during perspiration. It not only air conditions the body, but it protects the skin from the environment.”

Mr. Porter explained that nature uses vitamin C to protect the reproduction systems in plants and animals. For example, amniotic fluid, which is rich in vitamin C, plays a major roll in tissue protection.

EC Mode formulates its products with fresh dried ingredients, which the consumer adds at home, to combat skin, hair and scalp problems.

“The same technology that controls dandruff, eczema and sun damage can also remove iron and chlorine from the hair. They are all related to oxidization–the culprit of everything from aging to eczema,” said Mr. Porter.

EC Mode recently introduced the Hydro-Driver to be used in conjunction with its vitamin C serum. Hydro-Driver contains 5% vitamin E and aloe to create a lightweight facial emollient to moisturize, soothe and heal dry skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. EC Mode’s Hydro-Driver, Wrinkle-Less system, retails for $19.99.

Cellex-C, Toronto, Canada, is taking an internal approach to vitamin C with the introducion of dietary supplements.

“Our skin support system caplets help skin look younger and smoother by feeding it and giving it beauty from the inside out rather than the outside in,” said Gay Prizio, communications director, Cellex-C.

Cellex-C contains glucosamine sulphate to facilitate the creation of hyaluronic acid, the body’s natural moisturizer; L-ascorbic acid, which the company executives insist is the only form of vitamin C the body can recognize to promote healthy elastic collagen and quercetin, a plant derived bioflavonoid to protect vitamin C, strengthen collagen and guard against capillary fragility to accelerate healing.

The caplets are designed for the skin, but results depend on the physical condition of the individual. “When the body receives any kind of nutrition in the form of vitamins, micro-nutrients or bioflavonoids, the body will take these nutrients to the vital organs first,” said Ms. Prizio. “The point is, results depend on what your health is like now. Someone who smokes stands less of a chance of having healthy skin. Cellex-C is just another defense to keep or maintain youthful skin.”

Coenzyme Q10
Coenzyme Q10 (Co Q10) is a relatively new ingredient appearing on the scene. Juvena, holds a patent on a delivery system containing Co Q10, a compound that naturally occurs in each cell to assist cellular recovery. This system has been incorporated into several of Beiersdorf’s Nivea and Juvena products.

Juvena included these agents in its two new products, Q10 Lip and Q10 Mask. Lip combines a filling sphere with microspheres of plant origin to fill lip depressions and absorb moisture. It also contains vitamin E to stimulate microcirculation, Co Q10 for anti-wrinkle benefits and UV filters. The product retails for $18. The mask contains lysine aspartate to combat pale and tired skin; mate extract with oils; vitamins and caffeine for energy; essential fatty acids from thistle oil to prevent moisture loss and heighten protection; Co Q10 for anti-wrinkle benefits and shea butter to keep skin soft and supple. It retails for $30. Juvena products are available at select Sephora stores.

Another company, emergin-C, incorporates the healing properties of Co Q10 into its products.

“Co Q10 is a natural super antioxidant, the next piece of the puzzle in skin care,” said Ian Lirenmen president of emergin-C. “It is the skin’s first defense against UV rays.”

The company has introduced the emergin-C Q10 Vitality Mask to its Q10 line. The 15-minute mask nourishes skin by providing a boost of Co Q10 to heal damaged skin cells, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, prevent UV damage and reenergize skin. It is especially useful after sun exposure but can also serve as a preventative product, according to company executives. Additionally, the mask contains vitamins E and H and kaolin. A 1.76-oz. size retails for $45 at Sephora, Henri Bendel’s, The Spa at Camel Back Resort, Beautyjungle.com, Sephora.com and other fine salons. “We all need a balanced diet for the body, just as we need it for the skin. Skin needs vitamins and potent antioxidants. Co Q10 provides both at the same time,” said Mr. Lirenman.


The Letter A
Vitamin A and its derivatives, such as retinol A, play an important role in anti-aging products in the current skin care market.

“There is a real emphasis on vitamins, especially retinol-A and vitamins, which impart major line and wrinkle reduction,” said Karen Flinn, vice president of Chanel Beauté. “As the industry improves potency, the trend will only continue.”

Fran Wilson Creative Cosmetics, Inc.’s L de L Retinol line is based around vitamin A. “L de L Retinol vitamin A products have 400 i.u.s of moisturizer that make skin look younger, remove dark spots and rejuvenate the health of the skin,” said Herb Wilson, co-chairman of Fran Wilson.

The L de L Retinol line includes: vitamin A hand cream with SPF ($15), vitamin A cream exxtra strength ($16), vitamin A cream exxtra strength with ultra sunscreen SPF 20 ($20), vitamin A eye gel ($15), vitamin A face cleanser ($14), alpha hydroxy acid lotion ($24) and contouring body gel ($20).

Hydroxies Galore
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are hydrating molecules that have been proven to fight wrinkles, fine lines, sun damage and other signs of aging. AHA facial moisturizers registered sales of $13 million last year in food, drug and mass merchandisers, according to IRI.

“AHAs have a normalizing effect. Besides the standard exfoliation and anti-aging response, AHAs are ideal for people with skin conditions,” said Barbara Green, director of consumer affairs, NeoStrata Co., Princeton, NJ.

NeoStrata produces three skin care lines: Exuviance, Exuviance Pro-fessional and NeoStrata. Exuviance combines AHAs and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids, a form of AHA) to maximize the skin’s potential with low irritation. Exuviance Professional and NeoStrata are only available from skin care professionals and combine higher levels of AHAs for intense anti-aging products such as peels. Products range from a purifying body wash to a rejuvenating treatment masque.

Exuviance recently introduced the Exuviance Sampler Collection with the most popular Exuviance products combining AHAs and the new patented PHA, gluconolactone, with soothing botanicals, marine extracts, vitamins, antioxidants and sunscreens. The sampler comes in a clear cosmetic bag, with a 2-oz. purifying cleansing gel, 2-oz. moisture balance toner, 2-oz. essential multi-hydrating hand and body lotion, a .25-oz. jar of essential multi-protective day fluid SPF 15, .25-oz. jar of evening restorative complex and a 1-oz. tube of purifying body wash.

Chanel introduced Précision, a facial product line, last fall. “We have the ability to formulate products with active ingredients, so our products deliver immediate results. The first ingredient to raise the bar was AHA,” said Ms. Flinn. “You can see results after a couple of uses.”

Chanel recently introduced three new core products to its Précision Express line: Masque Pureté Express ($28.50), Masque Lift Express ($32.50) and Masque Force Hydrante ($28.50).

The medical community has recently become involved in the skin care market, endorsing particular products that often require physician supervision. Physician’s Choice of Arizona, Inc., Scottsdale, AZ, makes skin care products for physicians to dispense to patients. Physician’s Choice is best known for chemical peels that lighten and regenerate the skin using AHAs.

“Many soaps have paraffins and wax that dehydrate the skin. AHAs do amazing things—they exfoliate and soften the skin,” said Margaret M. Ancira, Physician’s Choice of Arizona, Inc. “Doctors can now get behind them by endorsing them as a cosmeceutical.”

The biggest complaint dermatologists hear is skin discoloration, which is caused by estrogen fluctuations, said Ms. Ancira. That’s the primary reason people go to dermatologists, followed by wrinkle and acne treatments.

Physician’s Choice of Arizona, Inc. offers pigment control gels, creams and bars and other home care products, all containing AHAs, aloe vera, vitamin C and antioxidants. The company also offers PCA Peel, PCA Peel HQ Free, PCA Peel with hydroquinone, PCA Peel with hydroquinone and resorcinol, Ultra Peel I and II, Supra Peel, Pumpkin Peel Beta-C mask treatment and an oxygenating facial trio.

To compete with brands such as Estée Lauder and Lancôme, Sothys will launch Blanc Perfect, a hypopigmentation serum to even out skin tone, under the Blanc Perfect Whitening line on May 15. The product line infuses a stable derivative of vitamin C; licorice extract; Biowhite, plant extracts of the mulberry tree, saxifrage, scutellaria and grape juice; Clariskin, a wheat germ derivative, vitamin B5 and SPF 8. The products treat existing brown spots and prevent further sun damage. Products soften and hydrate the skin, leaving a clean, even complexion.

Severe Conditions
There is hope for people who suffer from skin maladies such as eczema or sun rashes, according Dr. Robert Brodell, a Warren, OH dermatologist who described eczema as sensitive, usually dry skin that is easily aggravated by fabric softeners and residual detergent on clothing and soap. Even dishpan hands are an example of eczema.

Recognizing that a large portion of the population is affected by eczema and other skin irritations, many companies are developing products with therapeutic benefits. For instance, Curél’s Extreme Care line includes a facial wash, body cleanser and lotion.

“Benefit-oriented products are the most popular products on the market,” said Dr. Alexandra Kowcz, vice president of product development and quality assurance at Beiersdorf, creator of Nivea and Eucerin.

Eucerin Daily Sun Defense with SPF 15 addresses sun bumps and rashes, with an antioxidant complex of alpha glucofyl rutin (AGR), derived from natural plant sources, and vitamin E. Eucerin Daily sun defense also contains Parsol 1789 to screen UVA and UVB rays and clinical proof that it minimizes sun-related irritations. It is compatible with people who have sensitive skin, Ms. Kowcz said.

Gloves In a Bottle, Montrose, CA, is a lotion that binds to the outer layer of skin for up to three hours and comes off during the natural exfoliation process. It protects the skin from fertilizers, insecticides, pesticides, plant secretions, dirt, solvents, paint, thinners and household cleaning products.

“This is a new concept of moisturizing the hands before they are dried out; it is a preventative measure,” said Debbie Piccone, vice president of marketing. “It is non-toxic, non-allergenic and fragrance-free for even the most sensitive skin.”

Gloves In a Bottle is said to be ideal for people with severe eczema or those allergic to makeup or PABA and need a protective layer between cosmetics and the skin.

Under The Sea
Althought AHAs and vitamins continue to dominate, perhaps the largely untapped re-sources of the ocean are the next wave to hit the skin care market. Hygenic Laboratories & Cosmet-ics Inc., Ft. Lauderdale, uses laminaria algae, derived from seaweed harvested off the French Brittany coast in its brazenly named Kiss My Ass line.

“The sea and the human body are very closely related according to their chemical makeup,” insisted Monica S. Blau Takiff, Hygenic sales and marketing director. “Laminaria algae and red algae have healing and reparative properties, vitamins and trace minerals that the skin absorbs, making algae more beneficial than plain moisturizers.”

Laminaria algae also contain calcium and magnesium to detoxify the skin, while at the same time re-mineralizes, hydrates and helps vitamin A and E absorption, two vitamins found in seaweed. Kiss My Ass products also contain fatty acids and oils such as shea butter, macadamia, jojoba and sesame oils, that moisturize the skin and help seal moisture into the skin’s barrier. In addition, wheat amino acids give the skin a moisturizing treatment while the antioxidants repair and detoxify the skin.

Both Hygenic’s Marine Spa and Kiss My Ass lines contain algae and essential oils. The Kiss My Ass line includes body balm and body wash. Bath gels and lip balm will be introduced soon. The Marine Spa line infuses algae powders, muds and essential oils.

Wine, Anyone?
The skin healing properties of retinol, vitamin C and Co Q10 have been recognized for years. Now a new ingredient, grape seed extract, is finding its place in skin care products. Large and small companies are launching products with this antioxidant. Caudalie, a skin company care company based in Paris, harnessed the beneficial anti-aging and hydrating benefits of grape seed extract, polyphenol.

Created in the vineyards of Bordeau, France, Caudalie was brought to shelves in the U.S. in February. The trend has been followed by Christian Dior and Lancôme’s upcoming Vinéfit.

“You know how when you drink red wine, its polyphenol content gives some people flushed cheeks? Well, polyphenol assists the circulation process, helping the heart to pump more efficiently,” explained Tonya Giver, national director of marketing, Lantz-a-lot, a management agency for foreign prestige brands. “Even the most sensitive skin can be strengthened by its blood vessel action.”

Grape seed extract is a difficult extract to get a hold of, requiring one ton of grapes to extract one kilogram of polyphenol. Caudalie is sold in select Sephora, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus stores nationwide.

Helping Baby Boomers
The aging population in the U.S. has created demand for products that treat skin problems associated with menopause.

“Products designed for menopausal skin continue to grow, mainly due to the Baby Boomer population,” said Rebecca James Gadbury, president of Youthglow, a private label skin and body care manufacturer. “It is also related to the fact that some plant derived estrogens, such as soy, are believed to have beneficial effects. These phytoestrogens are 400 times weaker than human estrogens but they act as a molecular mimic to send messages to the skin.”

When estrogen levels decline, skin dries, wrinkles and darkens. When a woman hits menopause, the loss of estrogen speeds up the aging process.

Mary Kay Cosmetics developed TimeWise, a new patent-pending complex designed to reverse the signs of aging. The complex forms the back bone of the company’s latest skin care launch, providing a new blend of vitamins and anti-aging ingredients.

Two new products, TimeWise 3-in-1 cleanser and TimeWise Age-Fighting moisturizer, cleanse and hydrate the skin in the same amount of time it takes to brush teeth, according to company executives. Research showed that users experienced a 17% reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and a 30% improvement in skin softness after two weeks of continued use.

Myra O. Barker, Mary Kay’s executive vice president, cited studies demonstrating the benefits of avoiding direct sunlight. The skin has an inherent ability to repair itself and TimeWise stimulates this same complex in the skin.

“The complex works in conjunction with the skin’s natural repair processes,” said Dr. Barker.

TimeWise 3-in-1 cleanser cleanses the skin with esters, surfactants, natural clay and oils while exfoliating with blue, green and carnuba microbeads. Botanical extracts such as comfrey, yarrow, meadowsweet, hops and coneflower freshen the skin. It is available in a 4.5-oz. bottle for $18.

The TimeWise Age-Fighting moisturizer contains an oil-free moisturizing system dubbed the “dream humectant system.”

According to Consumer Reports, most moisturizers only hydrate for two to three hours at a time. Mary Kay’s system attracts and binds moisture for 10 hours. The moisturizer is available in a 3.3-oz. bottle for $20.

CA Botana International Inc., San Diego, CA, has also developed products to target baby boomers.

“Anti-aging products for the body and face are ever increasing and in demand as are spa and wellness centers,” said Ursula D. Wagstaff, president CA Botanta International.

CA Botana offers the Ambrosia Co Q10 skin care line that includes problem-solving products such as cleansers, refreshers and moisturizers. CA Botana also offers the Sea Enzyme Spa Collection containing sea algae, seaweed, kelp, seawater, sea minerals, organic botanicals, natural vitamins and essential oils in the forms of a mask, cleansers and body crystals. CA Botana products are available in fine salons and spas nationwide.

The Changing Market
In the past few years, consumers are crossing mass to prestige markets and back again to purchase skin care products. The availability of products now spans all possible outlets, including the internet.

And not only are products readily available, consumers are also becoming more savvy about ingredients. In an effort to save consumers’ money, mass economy brands and higher-priced brands are nearly competing with prestige brands that carry the same ingredients.

“The products are getting so good, they are getting picked up in the mass market, which is threatening the prestige market,” said Cetaphil’s product manager, Trey Schutz. “But the prestige skin care market certainly has its place. The main trends at the moment are reversing aging and slowing down future damage.”

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