The Skin Care Market

November 9, 2005

Today's skin care market offers something for everyone as products are becoming increasingly customized to meet individual needs.

Whether young or old, everyone these days is interested in maintaining beautiful skin. It seems that many skin care companies adhere to the idea that it is never too soon to start fighting the signs of aging. From the “age defying” products for women who want to reduce fine lines and wrinkles to products for younger women ages 15-29 who want to get a head start on preventative skin care, there is a product to fit each individual need. Many of these products are designed for women in their 20s and 30s to slow and possibly prevent the appearance of skin aging, as well as for the mature skin market, women in their 40s and beyond, to repair and soften the appearance of older skin. Multiple action products are also becoming popular with busy women who want to take care of their skin, but who have limited time.

According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), Chicago, supermarket, drug store and mass merchandise skin care sales totaled nearly $1.85 billion and grew 10% for the year ending Feb. 25. Facial cleansers represented 34.7% of the dollar share with sales of $640 million, and facial moisturizers represented 19.4% with sales of $358 million. Prestige skin care sales rose 6% last year to $1.7 billion, according to NPD BeautyTrends, Port Washington, NY.

“Today’s on-the-go consumers expect more from their skin care products,” said Timra Carlson, vice president of NPD Beauty-Trends. “Last year’s top new skin care launches represented new strides for anti-aging products. With the introduction of sugar-derived acid alternatives and vitamins used in their purest forms, skin care manufacturers delivered what consumers wanted, immediate results that showed visible difference within a day.”

According to NPD, the most notable prestige skin care launch for 2000 was Estée Lauder Idealist Skin Refinisher. Formulated to improve skin tone, balance moisture, reduce pore size and reduce fine lines, Idealist achieved the highest sales of any new launch in NPD’s tracking history.

Yves Saint Laurent recently launched Lotion Éclat Matité, a vitamin-enriched beauty toner that imparts a matte appearance to the skin. The product contains extract of grapefruit seeds to purify and control oil; peach juice, which is naturally rich in pro-vitamin A, to smooth, tone and refine skin’s texture; extract of yuzu, an Asian fruit rich in vitamin C and fruit acids and pure orange water to revitalize and refresh the skin. These purifying, revitalizing and exfoliating products gently act on combination to oily skin to boost radiance and vitality, according to company executives.

The Mass Market Leaders
While prestige skin care products have always incorporated cutting-edge ingredients, many skin care products available in the mass market use highly effective materials as well.

“The lines between mass and prestige are blurring as customers who typically buy prestige are purchasing more mass products than ever before,” opined Anitra Marsh, Oil of Olay spokesperson. “Many mass products today, such as the Oil of Olay Total Effects product line, offer the same benefits as prestige brands, yet at a lower cost. In addition, buying at mass is more convenient and in-line with women’s busy lives.”

Oil of Olay, one of the leading facial moisturizers and cleansers according to IRI, has developed an anti-aging product line for the whole body. “One of today’s hottest trends in skin care is anti-aging for the whole body. Women are beginning to acknowledge the fact that the face is not the only area of the body that shows visible signs of aging. The skin on the body, hands, nails, and even cuticles suffer from the effects of aging as well,” revealed Ms. Marsh.

According to Ms. Marsh, consumers “are looking for holistic products that combat more than just fine lines and wrinkles. Women want serious anti-aging skin care products that firm skin, even overall texture, improve skin’s dullness and minimize the appearance of blotches and age spots, as well as fine lines and wrinkles.”

The Olay Total Effects line includes three new products formulated with the VitaNiacin Complex, which contain three key ingredients: vitamin B3 (niacinamide), pro-vitamin B5 (panthenol) and vitamin E. The complex is designed to fight signs of aging from the neck down. Total Effects Body Visible Anti-Aging moisturizing treatment, Total Effects Hand Visible Anti-Aging moisturizing treatment with UV protection (SPF 15) and Total Effects Cuticle & Nail moisture treatment are each designed to fight seven signs of aging and provide the same anti-aging care women give the face, to deliver healthier, younger-looking skin on the body, hands, nails and cuticles, according to Oil of Olay executives. Each of these products retails for $9.49 and will be available nationwide in August at mass and online retailers, drug stores and supermarkets.

Pond’s Institute, the No. 3 mass market vendor of facial cleansers with sales of nearly $69 million, according to IRI, has introduced an innovative cleansing product, Pond’s Age Defying cleansing towelettes ($6.99 for a 30 ct. vanity case and $5.99 for 30 ct. refills). These pre-moistened towelettes offer women complete cleansing and the proven anti-aging treatment benefits of a gentle 4% AHA solution in one convenient, multi-purpose step, according to company executives. The towelettes have a dual action cleansing system that works with the help of two special fibers and an anti-aging solution. The first fiber removes surface oil and dirt and the second hydro-glycolic fiber holds, then releases a blend of alpha-hydroxy acids, vitamins and natural botanical ingredients.

“The popularity of cleansing towelettes is a tribute to the appeal of this effective, convenient and disposable method of cleansing,” noted Joanne Hook, brand director, Pond’s. “The introduction of Pond’s Age Defying cleansing towelette is sure to grow and add dimension to the booming cleansing towelette category.”

Never Too Soon
Noodé, a new unisex skin care line that targets 15-29-year-olds, was recently launched. Noodé, pronounced “new day,” is one of the first companies to scientifically design a complete line of skin care products for young consumers. The line was developed by a team of dermatologists as a solution for young skin rather than as an age-defying line. The products are all-natural and based on a system of nutrients and proteins with the key ingredient being kava kava, known for its soothing and calming properties.

“Offering serious skin care for young people has not been a top priority until very recently, and Noodé plans to lead the way,” said Seth Ratner, vice president, sales and marketing. “Noodé will specialize only in skin care as a sign of its commitment to marketing treatment-based skin care products. This category is secondary to color for many hip high-end cosmetic brands looking to target 15-29-year-olds.”

Noodé, New York, NY, provides a fun yet effective skin care line to the “generation me” demographic. The 11 SKU line includes Clean Me face wash, Scrub Me Gently facial scrub and Help Me zit zapper. The products will be available at Henri Bendel and select Bloomingdales locations.

According to Mr. Ratner, typical price points for quality skin care products are out of reach for most 15-29-year-olds at the department store level, forcing them into the mass market. Noodé is trying to keep the customer in the prestige market by offering quality skin care products that retail from $15-20. “We believe that the price and quality will redirect the prestige market as well,” said Mr. Ratner.

For the young woman interested in skin care and sun protection, but with limited time for an elaborate beauty routine, Chelsea Girl Beauty, Delray Beach, FL, has created a unique cleanser that not only washes the skin, but protects it from the sun as well. Wash Away the Sun SPF 15 cleanser ($14.50 for 6-oz.) combines a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an oil-free and PABA-free foaming cleanser. Using advanced ingredients, Chelsea Girl has created a cleanser that attaches to the protein layers of the skin, forming a protective sunscreen. Other products in the line include SPF 30 daily moisturizer ($16.00 for 1.7-oz.), Wash Away the Sun body wash SPF 15 ($12 for 8-oz.) and Smooth as Silk body lotion ($14.50 for 6-oz.).

Gimme an “A”
Because of their purported ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, products containing retinol and other vitamin A derivatives remain popular, as do products designed specifically to treat mature skin.

L’Oréal’s Plénitude line presents an age-targeted, age-defying regimen for every woman to improve the look and feel of her skin. The philosophy of Plénitude is to fulfill the skin care needs of every woman beginning in her 20s and continuing on.

L’Oréal Pléntitude has introduced Revitalift Complete, an anti-wrinkle and firming treatment to fight signs of aging, leaving skin toned and hydrated while protecting it from future damage. This multi-action product combines SPF 18 with proretinol A and parelastyl. The formulation reportedly decreases wrinkles, increases firmness, hydrates and provides the highest indicated SPF level in its category. Revitalift Complete was created for women in the 40-59 age range who take a proactive and preventative stance against the appearance of skin aging.

Mary Kay has released a simple and convenient skin care system—TimeWise—which delivers results in a two-product system. TimeWise cleanser and moisturizer feature a patent-pending blend of ingredients, the TimeWise Complex. It provides anti-aging benefits by working in conjunction with the skin’s natural repair process to help reduce the visible signs of aging. TimeWise products contain a unique combination of ingredients including the TimeWise Complex, the “Dream Humectant” and carnuba beads. TimeWise 3 in 1 cleanser ($18 for 4.5-oz.) contains vitamin A and E derivatives, comfrey, yarrow, meadowsweet, hops and coneflower extracts. TimeWise Age Fighting Moisturizer ($20 for 3.3- oz.) contains lemon and cucumber extracts to help even out skin tone and calm skin.

Avon has introduced a host of new products for women concerned with looking younger. Anew Line Eliminator Dual Retinol facial treatment provides a dual delivery of retinol, with a combination of vitamins and extracts. Avon recommends the treatment be applied to the face nightly after cleansing. The company has also released three new products in the Pore-Fection line. These three products are to be used in conjunction with each other. Pore-Fection cleanser is a deep-cleaning foaming facial cleanser that washes away dirt and reduces the appearance of pores. Pore-Fection mask features exfoliating beads of pumice and microabsorbers which gently cleanse the skin and unclog dirt and oil. Makeup, pollutants and excess sebum are drawn away from the skin for a prolonged matte effect.

New Trends
With the popularity of aromatherapy in the cosmetic and personal care industries, companies are continuing to look toward alternative therapies for inspiration for new products. Rachel Perry, Inc., Glendale, CA, has released Rachel’s Radiant Light Color Therapy, the first skin care-based color therapy system. This new holistic system claims to balance the energy centers of the body—chakras—by using the ancient art and practice of color therapy. This unique system contains seven colored spray mists, each with a matching colored light bulb. Each colored kit is specifically designed to replenish imbalances in a particular area of the body. For example, if the desired benefit is more energy, the red kit is used. Each spray mist is combined with a special herbal/plant complex that helps to restore moisture and nutrients to skin, while a pleasant scent adds the benefit of aromatherapy.

The use of organic ingredients has become quite popular as more people become aware of what they put in and on their bodies. Consumer demand for organic produce in the supermarket has crossed over to the skin care market. A newly launched skin care and bath products company, ubh (You Be Healthy), has developed a line of 100% organic, “chemical-free,” aromatherapeutic products. These products meet the proposed USDA regulations regarding the labeling of products as “organic.” The products are also preservative-free and do not use animal testing or genetically altered ingredients.

“Consumers are interested in the ingredients of the substances they apply to their skin, because what goes on the body also goes in the body. It’s beneficial to try to reduce the number of chemicals and pollutants in our daily lives, and we can begin to do that by using chemical-free skin care products that also enable us to have a pleasurable bath and body experience,” stated Michael Blake, founder of ubh.

The company uses a variety of extracts known for their healthful properties, including jojoba and macadamia oils, which moisturize the skin; carrot oil, which contains vitamin A; avocado oil, which contains vitamins A, D and E and other nutrients; lavender, which has a calming effect and grapefruit, which has an energizing aroma.

Doctors and Professionals
When dealing with something as important as skin, many people rely on experts in the field. Dermatologists and other skin care professionals have launched their own lines of skin care products. Murad, Inc., El Segundo, CA, is a leading dermatologist-backed skin care brand. The company has released Environmental Shield Age Proof Eye Créme SPF 15, a new treatment for the delicate tissue surrounding the eye. The new formula features full spectrum SPF 15 sun protection and a patented complex of anti-aging ingredients that beautify the fragile skin under the eye in four synergistic ways—reducing congestion, calming irritation, repairing damage and protecting the sensitive eye area.

Murad’s unique Age Repair System, with a patented formula, features vitamins C and E plus amino acids and zinc, all key to collagen synthesis, skin repair and hydration. The decongesting action of caffeine, algisium C and tiger’s herb dramatically reduces puffiness, minimizes undereye bags and restores skin firmness. When combined with the anti-inflammatory benefits of vitamin K and black cohosh, swollen, irritated eyes are re=energized and refreshed.

M.D. Formulations, San Diego, CA, has launched its Professional Treatment collection as a complement to the M.D. Formulations consumer product line. Each of the 16 products available in the Professional Treatment collection will support the retail sales of M.D. Formulations’ home care products. M.D. Formulations hopes to fill a niche that has been neglected. According to the company, in the past, spas sold the latest beauty and skin care products, but were not necessarily using these products on their clients during treatment. Now customers will be able to have an incredible treatment in the spa and purchase complementary products that offer the same level of quality for at-home use, according to company executives.

Prescription Plus Skincare, Santa Clarita, CA, a professional line of skin care products, has released a new line of products, Professional Beauty Products, for both professionals and consumers. Professional Beauty commissioned top research and skin care developers in the country to create the most advanced anti-aging products for all skin types, according to company executives. The result is the Age Defying System which includes the C10 Advanced Skin Re-finisher, Vitamin K Skin Kreme, and Vitamin K Eye Kreme.

Renova (trentinoin cream), a product of Ortho Dermatological, Skillman, NJ, is a prescription cream proven to reduce certain clinical signs of photodamage associated with chronic sun exposure and the natural aging process, when used as part of a total skin care and sun protection program, according to the company. It is available in two formulations. Renova 0.02% cream is proven to reduce fine facial wrinkles. Renova 0.05% cream is also proven to fade sunspots and smooth surface roughness.

Back to Nature
Vitamins and other natural ingredients continue to be an important ingredient in skin care products. Vitamins E and C, known for their antioxidant properties, have been added to many skin care products in recent years, while newer nutrients such as beta-carotene, olive oil and carotenoids are emerging as popular ingredients.

Priorities Skin Care, Richmond, VA, has introduced a new regimen of skin care products. Prerequisites, a beauty and wellness supplement for skin, hair and nails, contains botanical extracts such as cucumber, carrot and lavender, combined with vitamins A and E, to moisturize the skin and protect it against environmental pollutants. Designed to be used twice a day, Prerequisites increases hair luster, nail strength and skin texture through a complex formula of natural plant botanicals and antioxidants. And when consumers use it with Renewing & Restoring complex (R&R), skin becomes firmer and more hydrated, according to company executives.

Cellex-C International, Toronto, has introduced Betaplex, a new collection of beauty products infused with both alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Betaplex is a comprehensive skin care line that offers cleansing, toning and moisturizing products that meet the needs of all skin types. Betaplex utilizes a combination of alpha and beta hydroxy acids and other natural ingredients to dissolve and remove dirt, oils, makeup and impurities from the skin. The Betaplex line is comprised of Gentle cleansing milk ($35), Gentle foaming cleanser ($35), Line Smoother ($66), Smooth Skin complex ($64), New Complexion cream ($64), Facial Firming water ($47) and Fresh Complexion mist ($35).

Nikali’s Liquid Sugar ($24 for 6-oz.) contains a blend of sugar, natural oils and aloe vera, as well as vitamin E. The product is used to exfoliate the skin. Burt’s Bees Carrot Nutritive collection consists of natural, beta carotene-enriched skin care products that can help heal sun-damaged skin. The products contain carrot seed oil and beta carotene, natural antioxidants that possess unique healing properties to repair sun-exposed skin by fueling skin cell regeneration, reducing the appearance of dark spots, blotchiness and wrinkles and restoring a healthy glow to skin, according to company executives.

EmerginC, New York, NY, has released a new skin care product, EmerginC Earth ($65 for 1.8-oz.), a moisturizing cream comprised of copper, iron, magnesium and manganese peptides (derived from plants such as ivy, ladies’ mantle and horsetail) which are helpful in producing collagen and elastin fibers that keep skin firm and youthful. Copper is a powerful antioxidant that is quickly becoming a key anti-aging ingredient to improve skin texture and clarity while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Several Nu Skin products reportedly reveal the Mediterranean secret of beautiful skin—olive oil enriched with polyphenol hydroxytyrosol. Celltrex Ultra Recovery fluid ($33 for 0.5-oz.) can enhance the skin’s beauty and Moisture Restore Day Protective lotion ($30 for 1.7-oz.) hydrates, protects and promotes vibrant, healthy-looking skin, according to company executives. It features a unique colorless carotenoid, a powerful antioxidant from the waters of Israel.

Awake Cosmetics of Japan has released five new products that contain vitamins, clay and other natural ingredients. Vital Express (four 0.56-oz. vials, $65) is a powder-to-emulsion vitamin C treatment that contains comfrey and dog rose extracts to improve elasticity and firmness. Awake’s Body Hydrator (7.4-oz. for $25) is a liquid lotion that contains fruit acids to help exfoliate skin and remove unwanted dead skin cells, while comfrey imparts anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Deep Purity smoothing wash ($40) is a foaming exfoliating mask that contains citric fruit extracts to soften skin and remove excess oil. Deep Purity smoothing gel ($36, 60ml/2-oz.) contains clay, honeysuckle and hops to help regulate oil secretion and tighten pores. Deep Purity clay wash ($30) contains natural sea substances and minerals to help absorb excess oil, remove impurities and minimize the appearance of pores.

In this fast-paced age, women expect a lot from their skin care products. Not only do they expect fast results, but they also want a product with multiple actions. With so many new skin care products being launched, women can tailor a skin care treatment system to suit their individual needs. From age-defying products that care for a specific age range to vitamin and nutrient-infused products to treat a specific skin problem, there is a product for everyone. It seems as long as skin care manufactures continue to meet the growing needs of their consumers, the skin care industry will continue to thrive.

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