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The Styling Market Turns a New Page



New hair styling product forms are popping up on shelves at unprecedented rates.



Published November 10, 2005
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After a couple of years of parallel growth, hair spray and other fixatives have gone their separate ways. The $412 million hair spray category fell 2.6% for the year ended Feb. 24, according to Information Resources Inc., Chicago. But other hair styling categories are reporting gains. Gel and mousse sales rose 7.7% to $516 million last year. These results exclude Wal-Mart sales.

But hope remains for hair spray. They may be making a comeback since experts suggest the Eighties will be revived and "big hair" will be popular again. As promising as it sounds for hair spray, companies are also finding other ways to create volume, such as gels, clays, muds, starches, waxes and pomades. There is a constant flow of new and innovative styling textures, as seen in recent months.

The Eighties Revisited
As hairstyles return to the Eighties, there is a contradiction between wanting no-fuss Dos and buying products that create the right look. It is a fine line to walk, but Jingles International, a division of Robanda International, is willing to take that risk with its new Jingles Jam pomade line.

"Women in their 20s and early 30s don't want to do a lot for their hair," said Carla Ross, creative director, Jingles International, a division of Robanda International, San Diego, CA. "They are looking for combination products that provide pliability, separation, shine, moisturization and more."

The Jingles Jam pomade line contains two products: Take 1 (light-medium hold) and Take 2 (medium-strong hold). Both utilize the non-silicone SWS complex containing soy, wheat and silk proteins. The jams can be used to create spiked, firm, shiny and textured finishes, which reflect the recent flashback to the Eighties.

"We are going to see a soft revisiting of the Eighties, where gel-like products and hair sprays will again make their mark," insisted Ms. Ross. "Because hair is changing so radically, people will be looking for texture, such as bouffant, scrunched and wild hair. It is a natural development after the straight hair of recent years."

Jingles Jam pomades are sold in 2-oz. jars for $12.99 in salons.

Jingles offers two Jam pomades with light-medium and medium-strong hold.

"Next fall we will experience a Renaissance of the early Eighties where the hair is longer on top than the bottom," insisted Philip Pelusi, president and creative director of Phyto-Life salons, Pittsburgh, PA. "It is a revision of the original punk idea, only much more refined."

In June, Phyto-Life will introduce four styling products: Glimmer, Hair Honey, Glaze and Fixative. "Versatile cuts are important as well as using products to achieve different looks," explained Mr. Pelusi. "Hair is also generally becoming smoother and bigger with an emphasis on color and cut."

Glimmer hair and body glow contains pro-vitamin B5, hempseed oil, UV sun protection, honey and silk amino acids. Together, the ingredients add glimmer to the hair and provide a medium-hold with shine in four colors: Pure Gold, Diamond Violet, Ruby Red and Bedazzle Brunette. Mr. Pelusi noted the glimmers can be added to any of the styling products or can be used on their own. The introduction of this product offers clients several looks.

Hair Honey molding beeswax blends honey, beeswax, organic polymers, silica quartz and calcium and zinc protein. The product is fibrous and taffy-like to mold and condition the hair in any direction, as well as define curls. The idea behind the Hair Honey was to control the hair like a gel, but allow pliability, explained Mr. Pelusi.

Fixative, a light and volumizing texture gel, combines algae, grapeseed, locust bean, calcium, zinc and wheat protein. Fixative's styling memory allows the hair to be re-styled with heat. Glaze creates pliable style using apricot, cucumber juice, calcium, zinc and wheat protein.

Pump Up the Volume
Back in the 1980s, hair had volume, and 20 years later, marketers are once again turning up the volume. Clairol Herbal Essences, recently acquired by Procter & Gamble, offers a natural volumizing collection. Clairol Herbal Essences gels and mousses ranked No. 4 last year with sales of $21.7 million and No. 5 in the hair spray category with $18.9 million, reported IRI.

Recently, Herbal Essences added three new stylers to the natural volumizing collection: Weightless hair spray, Bodifying foam and Body Boosting gel. The line offers a comprehensive root-to-tip system that achieves all-day volume, body and control. Anita Walter, spokesperson for P&G hair care communications, insisted all recent P&G additions were launched to make life easier for consumers.

"Consumers are looking for simple, easy to use products that fit their particular styling needs, and stylers such as gels, crèmes and mousses have been growing at a rate of about 7% per year," Ms. Walter noted.

Redken's Clean Lift 7, a volumizing gel, was launched in November to give hair fullness and a touchable feel. "Large numbers of people want to volumize their hair," said Karen Fuss-Zipp, vice president of U.S. marketing, Redken Fifth Avenue. "This is the No. 1 request in salons, followed by shine."

Executives said Clean Lift 7 was designed to work with blow-dryers. It contains wheat protein to protect and condition the hair, styling polymers and UV filters.

L'Oréal's Studio Line FX launched Volumatic Full-Up mousse and Volumatic Root-Lift Spray gel. Both make hair appear fuller using a silicone grafted resin that plumps the hair shaft. L'Oréal executives said research reveals 42% of women define their hair as fine and 38% said their hair has too little body. L'Oréal Studio Line FX was the No. 11 mousse and gel brand last year with sales of $8.7 million, according to IRI. This figure was up 21.3% from the previous year.

Philip Pelusi's Fixative has a styling memory that can be altered with heat.

Super-Duper Grip
Not only is volume an important component in creating full hair, but a strong hold is vital as well. In April, Goldwell AG introduced Trendline Extreme Volume mousse and Trendline Extreme Finish spray in aerosol form. The products were introduced after consumers requested stronger forms of the Trendline Volume mousse and Trendline Finish spray.

Executives said the new mousse provides extremely strong hold without stickiness or stiffness. It is also alcohol-free and protects hair from heat styling. The Trendline Extreme aerosol finish spray has an extremely strong hold and shine and helps to create shorter, more directional hairstyles. Each costs $14.50.

Will Power 26 is the firmest holding non-aerosol hair spray Redken offers and fills a gap in the Redken lineup, according to executives. The product contains ginseng and silicone for shine, a high-hold resin, a UV absorber and a conditioning protein.

Redken's Spray Starch 15 mimics the pattern of heat elements without stiffness.

Curlycue Compliments
Industry executives identified a trend in the market for romantic, loosely curled hair this spring. Pantene Pro-V, the No. 1 mousse and gel brand and the No. 2 hair spray brand, is known for catering to several hair types in its lineup, including curly hair. Pantene Pro-V recently launched the Pantene Pro-V Moisturizing Curls Shaper Anti-Frizz crème to both condition the hair and reduce flyaways. The formula also seals in moisture, provides curl control and shine, creates separation and has a light hold.

"We continuously heard from women with curly hair that their style is difficult to achieve day to day and never lasts," said P&G's Ms. Walter. "These women wanted a product with conditioning benefits, as well as hold ingredients to 'tame' frizz and increase curl definition."
Executives said the Moisturizing Curls Shaper Anti-Frizz crème can replace mousse, gel or anti-frizzing products and provides eight times less frizz and 30% more smoothness than its competitors.

Sebastian International's Laminates collection introduced Laminates Curl this month. It is a single-step product to hydrate and hold natural curls weightlessly. The formula provides shine, touchable hold and no frizzing. Laminates Curl joins the collection of other Laminates products including shampoo, conditioner, hair spray, gel, grip, body, drops, hi-gloss spray and straightening spray.

Gelling Options
Most industry executives agree gels are the single most used styling product, due to their versatility in both wet and heat-styled hairdos. In March, Rancho Dominguez, CA-based Schwarzkopf & Dep added a new conditioning complex to all of its gels which includes panthenol, carotene, amino acids, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and hydrolyzed wheat protein. The company also changed the Dep logo to modernize the brand. Dep is the No. 6 mousse and gel brand with sales of $16.3 million, according to IRI.

The company also introduced Dep Botanicals, a styling gel duo with herbal extracts. Dep Botanicals Volumizing gel contains aloe and lavender to strengthen the hair and add shine, while Dep Botanicals Nourishing gel uses chamomile and watercress for shine and strength.
For those with dandruff, Dep launched 2-in-1 Anti-Dandruff & Styling gel under its Dep Sport line. Executives said it treats and controls dandruff with zinc pyrithione while providing extreme hold.

The White Rain Company, Danbury, CT, launched several new gel products in March, including Pearberry Anti-Frizz gel and Playful Plumeria Volumizing gel. White Rain is the No. 5 hair spray vendor in the U.S. Under the Dippity-Do brand, the company plans to introduce a unisex gel line with Power 7, Intensity 8, Ultimate 9 and Extreme 10 products.

L'Oréal Studio Line FX recently introduced Grab Extreme Stretch gel to shape hair in any style. The formula has elastic stretch fibers to make hair pliable and fast-drying.

Not Quite a Gel
The most impressive increases in the hair styling category are in terms of product form. New categories are being established almost daily, such as clays, jams, muds and foams. Redken executives insist these forms give stylists and consumers more versatility. "What stylists find most interesting to work with are different textures, such as gels and waxes," said Redken's Ms. Fuss-Zipp. "Styling products have become more cosmetic in how they feel."

Redken's Vinyl Glam, a fine and lightweight mega-shine spray, will debut in June. Spray Starch 15, a regular hold non-aerosol spray that mimics the pattern of heat appliances, was introduced last fall after executives noticed an increase in the use of damaging heating appliances, such as crimping and flat irons.

"When you iron clothes with starch, the cloth mimics the pattern of the iron," explained Ms. Fuss-Zipp. "We wanted the same thing for hair, but without the stiffness."

Spray Starch 15 contains a patented starch extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed wheat starch, styling polymers and UV filters.

A new alternative to gel, Hexatone is the latest styling foam from Jon English Salons, Minneapolis, MN. It combines six ingredients to condition and volumize the hair. The ingredients include cucumber, lactic acid, neem oil, aloe, pathenol and PVP/VA copolymer to provide style and control. Hexatone uses a specially engineered pump dispenser to aerate the liquid into foam without using propellants.

"The foam dispenser is a great way to get these ingredients well distributed in a light foam base," said Jon English, founder and owner of Jon English Salons and products. "Hexatone also has a lot of play time. This is important to consider since consumers take longer to style hair than professionals."

Executives said Hexatone is perfect for fine, curly hair or limp hair. It also follows a trend for volumized hairstyles. But versatility, Mr. English contends, is the main driving force in the styling industry.

"People are really looking for different things to change the fiber of their hair whether it is textured, separated, wet, high gloss, straight or shiny," he said.

Sebastian Laminates Curl defines curls and reduces frizzing and flyaways.

Mr. English plans to soon launch a 14-SKU line with a few styling products. Venetex is a gel that acts like a hair spray without the hard hold. Polisheen is a silica-based product that polishes the outside of the cuticle in the direction of growth to remove buildup and help the conditioner enhance the shine of the hair.

Sebastian International recently introduced two new Xtah Raw Hair products: Xtah Roxx styling gelatine and Xtah Cy-clone smoothing cream. The line is designed to take both styling and a state of mind to a heightened level. Xtah Roxx styling gelatine gives hair texture and firm hold with a cooling sensation and feel of rubber. Xtah Cy-clone smoothing cream creates a soft surface with light definition with a minty scent. Both products are sold in colorful 1.8-oz. and 4.4-oz jars for $12.50 and $19.50, respectively.

The Simple Life
Chatsworth, CA-based Sexy Hair Concepts has introduced a new item to its Healthy Sexy Hair line-Soyl Braiding and Sculpting clay. Using a blend of soy protein and diatomaceous earth, Soyl Braiding and Sculpting clay strengthens the hair and absorbs scalp oils. Other ingredients include a water-soluble resin and light wax. The clay can be used on all lengths of hair to create twists and definition, and on longer hair, dreadlocks and braids.

"People are eating at home, knitting and going back to simplicity; they are going back to braids," insisted Michael O'Rourke, president and chief executive officer, Sexy Hair Concepts. "It is important to have a consciousness of time and why people behave the way they do."

Within its Short Sexy Hair line, Sexy Hair Concepts launched two new styling agents to give shine, definition and freedom to hair: Frenzy Bulked Up Texture thickening compound and Shatter Separate & Hold spray. Frenzy defines straight hair and curls. Shatter is a spray designed to accentuate and hold shattered hairstyles.

The shattered look will extend into the summer and fall, according to Mr. O'Rourke, and a "Bohemian rock" look will take over in the fall. This hairstyle incorporates elements from the Sixties and Eighties-hair is short on top, long on the sides and asymmetrical around the face. The new Sexy Hair products are perfect for this transition and also meet the needs of the modern woman.

"Women are working hard and want a unique product that during the day can be used simply and easily and at night can make their hair full and wild," said Mr. O'Rourke. "Consumers today want 'performance' products that are easy to understand and easy-to-use, but they must also impart a 'good for your hair' attitude."

Wild and Waxy
More waxes are appearing on the hair styling scene. Swax spray wax, introduced in January under Zotos International's Innovative Styling Options (ISO) brand, is a liquid wax that gives hair instant grip, a shiny and satiny finish, separation, versatility and control. Swax contains beeswax, carnauba wax and soy protein. Executives said Swax doesn't leave the hair flat or greasy and offers consumers creativity and versatility.

"The market has become more creative," noted Debby Novak, marketing manager, ISO. "There are so many brands out there and products to choose from that people are branching out into their own styles, which is reflected in the products they use."

Last July, Zotos' ISO Multiplicity line launched six styling products including Tousle cream 'n gel, Tactile texture paste, Luminate glossing glaze, Whipped cream wax, Upshoot styling spritz and Mobilize working spray. All Multiplicity products utilize the ISO-flex complex that eliminates buildup, protects hair from environmental damage and provides humidity resistance.

John Paul Mitchell is known as an industry innovator. In February, John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) launched two new dry hair techniques to go along with the debut of Spray wax. The "No Thumb" technique focuses on using the tips of scissors to create point-cutting and definition and finishing with Spray wax to lightly lift the hair. The "Bow Tie" technique involves misting Spray wax onto long hair and setting it to dry in a knot. The result is hair movement somewhere between a curl and a wave. JPMS' Spray wax is sold in 2.8-oz. and 6.8-oz. bottles for $12.50 and $19.95, respectively. JPMS also offers a 6.8-oz. Spray wax and "New Way to Wax" stylist kit for $10.

Style Like a Man
Men are also receiving a lot of attention with new hair styling offerings. JPMS introduced XTG-Extreme Thickening glue, a men's styling product designed to hold short hair in place during any extreme activity. The product has a light vanilla scent and dries quickly without producing flakes. A 3.4-oz. bottle of XTG-Extreme Thickening glue retails for $9.95 in hair salons.

Dep Sport Endurance pomade, introduced last month, is a strong-hold pomade for men with thickening fibers. It keeps hair in place both indoors and outdoors, executives said.

American Crew executives think they have struck copper. The new American Crew Revitalize brand capitalizes on the unique benefits of copper peptides that were discovered during skin grafting experiments for burn victims. Researchers found that not only did the skin regenerate, but the hair follicle environment was also revived. The line is a revolutionary new system for thinning hair to improve and create an environment for healthy hair and minimize the loss of hair.

"We discovered that men don't like complicated systems," said Austin Baskett, brand manager for American Crew's d:fi and American Crew Revitalize. "All you need to use are three products: a shampoo, conditioner and either the spray or the serum."

XTG-Extreme glue is for an active man.

All products contain the Nutra-Rich Copper complex, a blend of micro-nutrients and botanicals. The products include: Revitalizing Daily shampoo, Revitalizing Daily Moisturizing shampoo, Revitalizing Daily conditioner, Revitalizing Spray solution, and Revitalizing serum.

American Crew will also introduce Forming cream, a low-shine paste that gives the hair texture and hold with pliability. "It fills a hole that we had between our high gloss Grooming cream and the matte Fiber styling products," explained Mr. Baskett.

Right Off the Beach
Men and women alike often prefer apply-and-go products as well as the just-from-the-beach look. Beach Bum, a recent addition to American Crew's d:fi family, gives flat hair volume and texture that is like ocean bathed hair.

Last year, John Frieda introduced Beach Blonde, a 4-SKU line to create an off-the-beach look, with products such as Ocean Waves, an innovative body-enhancing spray combining seawater and conditioning oils for shine.

"If clients have a natural wave and live in a humid place, Ocean Waves spray is perfect," said Corey Morris, hairstylist at the New York-based John Frieda salon. "You scrunch the hair and it gives it a curly look with separation for that imperfect beach look."

In April, four new products were added to the Beach Blonde line: Cool Dip refreshing shampoo, Life Preserver hair conditioning oil, Smooth Sailing detangling conditioner and Kelp Help deep conditioning masque. The products encourage hair health, even during the summer months.

Under the Sheer Blonde collection, John Frieda introduced Dream crème, a product that penetrates porous blonde hair with rich emollients and humectants and replaces natural oils lost to chemical treatments or blow-drying. A gentle sunscreen also protects delicate, vulnerable blonde hair from the sun's damaging rays and reduces dry, damaged flyaways.

Children's Choosings
HairBrain Formula Company, a Manhattan Beach, CA-based hair care company, recently expanded its tween and child-geared line to salons. HairBrain offers the Moose mousse with conditioning herbal extracts, essential oils and vitamins to give children a lightly styled look. "This natural product has less glue than other mousses and is non-irritating to the skin," said founder Bob Chasin.

D:fi launched Thick Stick in November for 10-24-year olds. The lotion-like product was designed to create bigger and bolder hair with a light-medium hold. The product was packaged in a twistable glue stick-like container.

"The packaging was developed to offer a fun new way to apply a product," noted Mr. Baskett. "It is a neat way to get a thick medium in a quick glob."

Cactus extract, a common d:fi ingredient, increases the hair's elasticity and shine. Sugar cane provides hold and maintains moisture balance, while ginseng extract stimulates the scalp. A 1.5-oz. Thick Stick retails for $14.95.

A Natural Style
The entire personal care market has shifted toward natural ingredients and the trend holds up in hair styling categories too. Natural product marketer Aura Cacia introduced six styling products: Reviving Protein foam, a B5 formula to boost limp hair with nutmeg and Spanish moss add shine; Heat-Activated relaxer straightening spray with proteins and essential oils; Curl Enhancing gel with allantoin and natural botanical moisturizers; Amplifying foam with pro-vitamins, honey and natural extracts; Spray-On detangler with lavender, chamomile and rosemary oils and Medium Hold spray with rosewood, soy and witch hazel. Every product uses natural and subtle fragrances such as spearmint, cinnamon, lavender and lime.

"The interest in natural hair care has never been greater," said Thierry Jean, natural personal care category manager for Aura Cacia, a Frontier brand, Boulder, CO. "There's also a greater demand for products that can make the hair look great in less time, such as 'ease of comb-ability' with our Spray-On detangler."

Rusk, New York, NY, recently launched DeepShine Hold and Shine hair spray for a humidity-resistant and flexible hold. Also new is the DeepShine Sea Kelp Shine spray to revitalize hair before blow-drying, DeepShine Sea Kelp Shining gel to give hair a non-greasy chunky texture and DeepShine Sea Kelp Liquid gel for static flyaways and dry frizzy ends. They contain bio-marine extracts of sea kelp which have high levels of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, essential trace elements and UV absorbers.

Catering to Convenience
In February, Physique introduced two new products to its hair styling lineup. Physique Scrunching foam, under the Curl Defining Series, adds shine and manages curls in a lightweight formula. Physique Trial Size packettes in Spiral cream and Contouring lotion were also launched to satisfy consumers' needs for travel-sized products. Executives noted the packettes are not only portable, but also a good way for first-time users to experiment. And all products use an anti-frizzing formula.

Aura Cacia has expanded its natural personal care lineup with six hair stylers.
This year, Physique has also been busy launching a hair and fragrance product-Physique 2.5-oz. Mini Styling spray. The spray contains the fresh scent of Eau, a blend of fruity flavors and floral essences that is infused throughout Physique shampoos, conditioners and styling products. Specifically, Eau has top notes of watermelon, kiwi, Easter lily and ozone with a heart of freesia, lily of the valley, peony and peach and a drydown of creamy sandalwood and grass.

The Nitty-Gritty
Consumers are interested in seeing new product forms to help them style their hair, but the fundamental guidelines for consumer satisfaction remain the same. "Consumers want products to do what they claim to do," said Redken's Ms. Fuss-Zipp. "Secondly, they want the benefits to the hair to be healthy."

These rules are important to not only find a niche in the hairstyling market, but essential to keep consumers coming back for more.


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