Hairstyles Go to New Heights

November 15, 2005

New dimensions in hairstyling hope to breathe life into the market.

Pizzazz is one thing the hairstyling market has never lacked, and this spring, marketers have upped the ante with new hairstyling products. Hair spray sales dipped 7.5% to $378.5 million for the 52 weeks ended Jan. 25, 2004 and gel/ mousse sales were essentially flat at $548.3 million, according to Chicago-based Information Resources Inc. (IRI). These figures do not include Wal-Mart sales. Though sales did not shine, most consumers use at least one styling product, including a growing number of male consumers who are getting very product savvy and experimental.

Runways have featured many different hairdos, but one thing remains consistent this spring and summer—layering. Sexy Hair Concepts founder Michael O’Rourke launched the ModiFi haircutting technique. Using shears and multi-length clippers, the haircut is a reincarnation of the Mod hair of the 1960s that can be molded into various styles.

The Lightbox spring/summer 2004 collection, new from Joico, was inspired by sources of light and reflection. The hair colors use various stages of light and contrasting color. Techniques include UV, Flash and Solar.

Edward Tricomi, co-founder of the Warren-Tricomi salons, predicted two distinct hairstyling trends will prevail this spring. The first, dubbed “Hollywood Glam,” brings the romantic looks of the 1920s with soft finger curls to modern times. The haircut requires setting or hair sprays to maintain the waves. Mr. Tricomi described it as, “sweet yet decadent.”

The second look for short hair is called the “Modified Mohawk” or “Fin.” This look has short hair on the sides and overlapping hair on top for a separated, funnel-like effect. Wax and hair spray help to create the look. “You funnel the hair out underneath so it is well blended,” explained Mr. Tricomi. “It is an elegant punk. It is much softer than the 1980s, more pliable and versatile and has nothing to do with hard edge.”

Warren-Tricomi will be launching a product line in a few months as well as opening a salon in Los Angeles.

American Crew’s Citrus Mint paste creates pliable hold with a fresh essential oil-infused, citrus scent.
Celebrity hairstylist and salon owner Christophe is opening his fifth salon in Las Vegas this month. He said haircuts this spring emphasize natural texture with lots of layering. Straighter looks require silicones or straightening products, wavy looks use mousse to hold and separate and curly looks feature product combinations such as mousses and pomades.

“Wavy is reminiscent of old Hollywood,” explained Christophe. “Curly looks are basically an updated take on the 1980s styles.”

To accompany the colorful fashions of this spring, hairstyles are extremely layered and natural, according to Susie Bond, guest artist for Goldwell USA. “Getting away from a bob will update any look to top the carefree style of the spring/summer,” she said.

Goldwell executives said firm-hold products at the roots such as the new alcohol-free Trendline Lagoom or Freeze Pudding will help support blow-dried volume. Texture can be added to the ends with Trendline Mello Goo or Shine Wax for separation.

Spring and summer looks will be textured and soft, according to Michael St. Onge, manager of educational development, Matrix. Haircut perimeters will have shape without solid lines.

The Hairstyling Huddle
Men are getting more savvy about their personal care routines and offerings in the marketplace. Executives from Joe Grooming, Austin, TX, said men’s looks this summer are all about having loose, lean and bulky hair. To achieve this, stylists must leave more length in the interior of the cut without making it look too feminine. The styles are also multi-layer and de-emphasize the roundness of the head.

Joe Grooming recently repackaged its line to convey quality and straightforwardness with a larger logo and color-coded bars to differentiate among shampoos, conditioners and grooming products. The products are infused with certified organic and natural ingredients such as olive oil, ginger, gingko biloba and soy protein.

Each product is also designed specifically for men’s scalps with exfoliating and non-clogging ingredients. “Men get dry flaky scalps and it’s not dandruff, it’s DHT, a hormone that we excrete through the scalp,” explained Steve Duross, creative director, Joe Groom-ing, St. Louis, MO.

The company selects scalp-safe ingredients without forsaking formulations. “Those really cool, taffy, fibrous, putty products that create a messy look have lanolin,” Mr. Duross added. “The only problem with that is that the majority of men are allergic to it. We chose to use beeswax and other natural products that do not cause irritation.”

The latest addition, Grooming compound, is a water-based styling paste that provides maximum texture and molding, with a low-luster shine for a natural look.

Joe Grooming is planning to launch a firm holding finishing spray and body wash by late August. A skin care line is expected to roll out by the holidays.

American Crew expanded its Citrus Mint hair care line last month with the addition of Citrus Mint gel for maximum hold and shine and Citrus Mint paste for pliable hold and natural finish. Executives said men are more aware of the benefits of natural ingredients. Designed as a simple regimen for men, Citrus Mint products contain natural oils such as lime, orange and spearmint for a crisp scent.

Minneapolis-based hairstylist and salon owner Jon English released his She-Bang 2004 haircut collection for men and women. The haircuts unite the modern shag with solid bangs and are topped off with color over-laying and under-laying. His Ventex styling gel is at the core of all the hairstyles. Other recent Jon English additions include Aqueous pomade and Gelatone.

Frizz Ease Comes First in Gel/Mousse
John Frieda’s Frizz Ease ranks No. 1 in the gel/mousse category. Here is a list of the leading gel/mousse brands for the year ended Jan. 25, 2004. All dollar figures are in millions.
Brand $ Sales % Change $ Share Unit Sales % Change
Frizz Ease 46.5 16.2 8.4 8.8 14.9
Pantene Pro-V 32.3 -5.1 5.8 7.9 -4.9
L.A. Looks 30.2 -9.6 5.5 12.5 -13.8
Got 2B 23.8 45.5 4.3 4.6 48.0
Clariol Herbal Essences 22.0 -8.3 4.0 6.6 -8.8
Pro Vitamin FX 13.1 2.0 2.3 2.9 6.2
Suave 12.6 16.9 2.3 7.8 23.7
Dep 11.3 -12.1 2.0 4.3 -17.4
L’Oréal Studio Line FX 11.1 4.8 2.0 3.1 0.6
L’Oréal Studio Line 10.4 43.1 1.9 2.7 27.9
Category Total 548.3 -0.6 100.0 149.6 -4.1
Source: Information Resources Inc., Chicago. Wal-Mart sales are not included.

Extreme Makeovers
Out-of-bed looks are still extremely popular among younger consumers. “As our world’s youth places its footprint on our fashion world, we head further into the unkempt look,” insisted Goldwell’s Ms. Bond. “Controlled chaos will help adults fit into that category of fashion-forward design.”

This spring, L.A. Looks unveiled Chaotic Look Whipped wax, an extreme holding product that adds texture, control and shine to hair. Only a small amount is needed to create chunky, twisted, separated or messy looks, executives said. Also new is L.A. Looks’ Wet Look styling gel with X-Treme Hold. The high performance gel can either create firm-holding updos when air-dried or moveable, layered, beach-like hairdos when blown dry.

Redken launched the solid Water 06 Wet Set gel, a flexible, moisture-rich gel that molds, defines and slicks hairstyles into place. It also deposits a high gloss onto the hair without flaking.

Redken’s Sharp Edge 14 Whipped Graphic wax is also new. This foam turns into a lightweight wax for easy distribution and provides pieced definition and a tactile grip.

Circle of Friends is a styling line designed for tweens. The company’s new Jacques’ Hair Jam offers a separating, forming and shaping styling product with a grape scent. Executives said the jam keeps strands soft and supple for restyling all day long.

Dax Inc., which primarily develops products for consumers with ethnic hair, launched the Gel-it line of what executives call “get-up-and-go” hair styling items. The clear, non-flaking products lock in moisture and impart a fresh scent to the hair. They come in Gel-it Regular Hold, Super Hold and Protein Enriched.

Dax is also branching out into the mainstream with the FlexMold collection. The shaping and sculpting gels contain DaXensual natural botanicals and acrylate fibers to spike, slick, freeze and hold hair in place all day with one application, executives said. They are available in FlexMold Hydrowax, Spiking gel and Stringing fiber formulas and housed in distinctive red jars with black lids.

Also new are Dax’s High & Tight hair dresses in army yellow and green camouflage packaging in Awesome Hold and Awesome Shine variants. Designed for men’s short hair, a portion of each product sold will go to scholarships for military children. The packaging was also designed to appeal to a younger audience. “Our No. 1 goal is to attract younger consumers,” added Dax chief executive officer Vincent Durante. “Our second goal was to support our troops overseas.”

Rizzi Hair Corp. launched several on-trend products such as Flux, a flexible liquid mousse, F/X X20, a hard-hold, waterless aerosol finishing spray, Chaos wax for wet or dry hair and Paradox, a flexible pomade.

You Can Please Them All
Several new product lines cater to different looks, instead of focusing on any particular hair type or desired effect. In January, Tresemmé introduced the new Specialized Styling line. For straight hair, Tresemmé offers the non-flaking De-Frizzing Moisture gel as well as the Smoothing pomade with an exclusive moisture protein complex. Curl products include the humidity-resistant Curl Enhancing mousse and Curl & Scrunch finishing spray. For those with limp hair, Tresemmé launched Volumizing mousse and for funkier styles there is the new Freeze & Shine gel and Freeze & Control hair spray.

Suave Professionals, a new line of value-priced products from Unilever, was extended with several styling products. For superior hairdo control, Suave Professionals offers the Smoothing glaze, Super Hold Shaping, Extra Hold Shaping aerosol hair spray, Freeze Hold Finishing non-aerosol hair spray and Firm Control gel. Volume is the task of the Suave Professional Volumizing Foam mousse. It contains awaphui, panthenol and glycerin. Flexible, natural hair is created with the Suave Professionals Flexible Hold finishing non-aerosol hair spray. It relies on the powers of aloe, henna and panthenol to create touchable dos.

In November, L’Oréal launched Garnier Fructis Style, a 13-SKU line of styling products containing fruit micro-waxes made from mango and apricot seed kernels to moisturize the hair, lemon fruit extract to enhance shine and polymers for superior styling hold. The line’s fragrance also took cues from fruit with a blend of lemon, lime and green apple. All of the products, which range from hair spray to smoothing milk, were inspired by salon formulations.

For salons, New York-based John Allan’s launched a range of styling products for all occasions. John Allan’s Texture is a light-holding, versatile gel for shaping and sculpting with extracts of ginseng root, rose hips, spirulina and wheat protein. The aloe and sea kelp-infused Gelle X provides extra volume, medium hold and subtle shine to the hair. John Allan’s Rock is a firm sculpting gel with botanical extracts of orange flower, lemongrass and grapefruit. The moisturizing Smooth doubles as a leave-in conditioner and lightweight styler. Pomade Gold is designed for shorter hair for separation and texture. Lastly, John Allan’s Pomade blu is water-based, lightweight and flexible.

Midwest-based celebrity hairstylist Emmett Cooper offers a range of hair care items that includes Set defining setting spray, Polish lightweight silicone gloss and more.

Some companies have opted for versatile products instead of a full line. Zotos International’s Joico division launched the I.C.E. gel last fall. The multifunctional product can be used on damp hair for a sleek, wet look or for exceptional volume. The gel contains Joico’s exclusive Triaminecomplex created from keratin protein and 19 essential amino acids to help reconstruct and repair hair. I.C.E. gel is available in a 5.2- or 10.5-oz. tube in salons.

Also new is I.C.E.’s Reactor gel, also dubbed the “Texture Transformer.” The matte product works on wet, damp or dry hair to add movement to a cut without weighing it down.

Out of Control
Several lines try to remedy common hair problems. L.A. Looks said farewell to frizz with its Anti-Frizz serum. The versatile, alcohol-free formula is light, non-greasy and prevents damage from heat styling and humidity. It also strengthens and softens dry, frizzy hair, according to Dep & Schwarzkopf executives. Star ingredients include dimethiconol and phenyl trimethicone.

The new Rusk Design Series collection tames frizz with mousse, sheer brilliance polisher, worx atomizer and blofoam. The Pantene Pro-V division of Procter & Gamble launched the Smooth & Shine Anti-Frizz serum, an intensive formula to instantly transform dry, brittle locks into glossy, smooth hair. For straight hair, it provides a healthy final gloss. For curly hair, it controls flyaways and frizz for beautiful shine and smoothness. Executives said it also delivers 45% more shine than previous products and contains the trademarked pro-vitamin formula.

Wild About Waves
Curls are said to be all the rage right now. In fact, Bumble and bumble executives call curly the new straight, citing actresses on the red carpet with exaggerated volume and texture, such as Nicole Kidman, Sarah Jessica Parker and Charlize Theron.

Modern Organic Products’ (MOP) newest C-system addition is C-Curl curl enhancing cream, a separating, non-residual and non-tacky styling product with citrus extracts, VP/VA copolymer, antioxidants and a UVB sunscreen. It keeps frizz at bay all day.

Rusk introduced the Internal Re-structure str8 anti-frizz/anti-curl lotion. This greaseless lotion is designed to temporarily straighten wavy, curly or permed hair. It contains Therma-plex, a complex that modifies internal curl memory and eliminates frizz.

Matrix launched Amplify for volumized hairdos.

Non-sticky and non-crunchy curls are the aim of Biolage’s new Touchable Soft Styling collection. “The most popular products for spring/summer will have control and volume without a ‘product’ feel,” asserted Mr. St. Onge from Matrix.

The line includes a Shaping crème-wax, Curl-Defining crème and Smoothing Shine milk. They contain a blend of botanical milk ingredients such as milk thistle, rice and bamboo milk and superior holding fixatives that are soft to the touch. The products also add shine.

Curl.life Defining System, also new from the Matrix Look.Series, offers a comprehensive regimen for curly hair. Consumers use the Curl.life shampoo and Curl.life conditioner, and then apply Curl.life Contouring cream or Curl.life Contouring milk, depending on hair type. All contain the Spring-Fit complex to add definition and bounce.

Goldwell’s Trendline Move Control, set to debut in June, is said to be ideal for anyone with curly or wavy hair. This cream control agent maintains the curl formation of the hair when wet, providing control without leaving the hair stiff or crispy when dry.

Straight as an Arrow
If straight hair is your fancy, there is a variety of new products to help create this look. C-Straight straightening cream from MOP contains anti-humectants to control frizz as well as natural waxes such as carnauba and beeswax for light control. C-Straight also contains antioxidant citrus extracts and oils. Additionally, it features a UV shield for color protection.

PureOlogy Serious Colour Care has added the Straight collection of SuperStraight shampoo, SuperStraight Condition and SuperStraight Relaxing serum. All contain advanced nano emulsions that penetrate the hair shaft to maximize color retention, moisture and protection from heat and color fading, the latter of which also contains PureOlogy’s AntiFade complex. In addition, proteins of oat, wheat and soy smooth and strengthen the hair. In the SuperStraight Relaxing serum, silicones help to relax the hair.

John Paul Mitchell Systems’ Super Skinny serum displaces water to thin the hair.

The latest member of John Paul Mitchell Systems’ Super Skinny line is the Super Skinny serum. It works to smooth, soften, condition and seal the hair cuticle, as well as reduce drying time. The serum retails in 0.85- and 5-oz. sizes. It can be used with other Super Skinny products which contain the Super Skinny complex to displace water in the hair shaft and constrict the hair to make it thinner.

L.A. Looks launched the Straight Look Straightening crème with Mega Hold in March. This heat-activated product contains lightweight conditioners to smooth the hair without weighing it down with a heavy or greasy feeling. It also has an advanced resin to create long-lasting hold and protection against humidity. Other agents include panthenol, jojoba oil and wheat protein for body, strength and sheen.

Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Sleek unveiled the Get It Straight Smoothing mousse. It provides the hair with shine and movement due to its lightweight formula, P&G executives said. It also helps to prevent split ends.

The owners of Gavert Atelier salon in Beverly Hills have launched the Extreme Beauty hair care collection designed for use after Japanese thermal straightening treatments. The range includes Extreme Shine, an anti-frizzing, non-drying and silicone-infused product.

Rizzi Hair Corp. will soon introduce a straightening styling balm to accompany a new straightening shampoo, conditioner and chemical straightener.

Pump Up the Volume
Big hair is back this spring, according to Stuart Gavert and Cody Kusakabe, owners of Gavert Atelier salon in Beverly Hills, CA. They said cuts are flirty, fringe-veiled and approachable with heavy bangs. Frizz is razor-layered to create soft, romantic cuts. For consumers desiring volume and lift, a slew of new products are available featuring advanced formulas.

“Some of the newest product technologies available are gel-wax combos,” Matrix’s Mr. St. Onge explained. “Weightless volumizing sprays give the effect of ‘big’ hair without the product residue or dullness apparent in other products.”

Matrix’s Amplify features V-Lastic technology that adds fullness and body to hair, plus a range of texturized effects from soft and tousled to pieced. The technology contains ultra-light styling polymers and thickening agents. The line includes the Amplify spray-gel and Amplify gel-wax. Executives said the products are great for the 36% of Americans who say that they have fine hair.

BigTrix and FreezeTrix, two new additions to the Matrix family, help to recreate the voluminous star styles of the 1960s and 1970s; however, they are more wearable. BigTrix is a mousse with dose-dispensing nozzle for boosted styles. The FreezeTrix Fast Fix spray has a water-free, humidity-resistant formula and shine-enhancing silicones.

“Everything is about big hair right now, about wanting to be seen, about prominence,” insisted Donna Federici, senior vice president of sales and marketing at Sexy Hair Concepts.

Sexy Hair Concepts introduced the What a Tease spray. Hair is lifted with agents such as polymers, acrylates and dimethicone. “Years ago we had to back comb and tease hair for volume,” explained Ms. Federici. “Now we use ingredients to add fullness.”

Pantene Pro-V’s Sheer Volume banner introduced the Lightweight Conditioning foam. P&G executives said this treatment actually repairs styling damage without weighing hair down. The foam is enriched with the Pantene Pro-Vitamin formula to help repair damage.

J.f. lazartigue’s new Volumizing Treatment line includes a Root volumizer and Hair-Volume tonic, as well as other hair care items. The products were specially designed for limp, lackluster hair that tends to droop. Trace elements and chitin provide body, while wheat proteins nourish the hair.

Makeover Mania
Procter & Gamble has moved several of its mid-tier brands to the value tier to compete with thrifty lines such as Alberto VO5 and Suave.

P&G’s Aussie shampoos and stylers changed from tan to bright purple packaging and lowered prices to $2.99. Alternatively, the Aussie conditioners and treatments were repackaged in clean, crisp, white containers. Aussie also upgraded a number of products and discontinued others such as the Mega Styling sprays for the obsolete Air Do hair spray and the Tizz no Frizz and Natural gels for the Smoothy gel.

Physique debuted with a new look and straightforward names to denote styling results in an effort to make product selection easier, according to P&G executives. Physique also reorganized products into four simplified collections: green for volume, blue for straight & control, purple for curl defining and silver for special cleanse & style. New products launched as well, such as the Volume Boosting gel with 20 hours of hold.

Zotos International has unveiled its remake of Nucleica. Formulated with amino and nucleic acids, the hair care products help to restore the correct balance of protein and moisture in four categories: moisture and balance, volume and body, maintain and control and specialty solutions. Included in the line are stylers such as Pro-tex Molding paste, Transfix spray gel and Proteplex Styling/Finishing spritz.

Scruples, known for its professional and user-friendly products, recently revamped its Pearl Prescriptives line from straight white bottles to curvy cream-colored bottles. Sizes were also upgraded. Scruples also added the Rock Hard Extra Firm finishing spray. It is fortified with polymers, an exclusive protective barrier complex and PBX, an exclusive blend of mucopoly-saccharides, hydrolyzed cationic proteins, UV absorbers and silicone conditioners. The spray is said to hold styles, even in humid and windy conditions.

As part of an updated and result-oriented product line, Thermasilk now offers the heat-activated Volume Infusing mousse.

Thermasilk has reformulated and repackaged its entire hair care range. Divided into performance groups, the hair care products denote hair type, while the styling products differentiate between volume, control and hold with color-coding (volume is orange, curl is yellow, moisturizing is blue, etc.). The 10 stylers are also housed in new lavender bottles and include products such as the Volume Infusing mousse, Frizz Fighter Weightless Hydrating cream and Ultra Hold hair spray.

Hair Care Included
Several new hair care lines also offer styling ancillaries. The new Paul Brown Hawaii hair care collection includes Hapuna Paul Brown style, a non-aerosol styling foam and Hapuna Paul Brown spray, a medium-hold, non-aerosol hair spray. Hapuna water is said to be rich with mineral protein and moisture and is derived from Hawaii’s Mauna Kea volcano. The products also contain heliogenol, an extract from sunflowers.

Sixty percent of women have brown hair, according to the No. 1 manufacturer of gel/mousse John Frieda (based on IRI data). The company’s Brilliant Brunette line addresses their specific hair care needs, such as dull, mousy and monotone hair. The products are formulated to illuminate and reflect light off pigment-rich brown hair, with shampoos, conditioners and stylers. The styling products include Brilliant Brunette Shine Shock serum, Satin Shine finishing crème, Simply Sleek straightening balm, Model Control firm-hold gel and Hold True long-lasting finishing spray.

This month, Goldwell will introduce the Color Glow color support system of shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins and styling aids to help maintain color, shine, combability and style through summer abuses such as the sun.

New Hairstyling Horizons
Though executives agree the overall look this summer is about soft layers, the coming year’s looks will evolve.

“The next few seasons will continue with textured looks, bold but simple colors,” predicted Mr. St. Onge from L’Oréal’s Matrix. “Softer shapes will remain because of the femininity they offer to women.”

But as the fashions change, so will the products and technologies to accommodate them.

Looking for a new ingredient for your hairstyling product? A list of them can be found in the print version of Happi.
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