|Lancôme’s Sweet Vintage fall collection hails old Hollywood style.|
Color cosmetics executives focused on eye products during the year ended June 13, with sales up 1.8% to $745 million in the mass market, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), Chicago. Other categories, however, declined as sales of lip cosmetics fell 7.5% and nail products dropped 5.4%. The facial cosmetics category was essentially flat, with sales up 0.2%, IRI reported. These results do not include Wal-Mart sales.
The good news is that prestige sales are surging this year. Makeup sales were up 8% in the first quarter of 2004 to more than $700 million, according to NPD Beauty, an NPD Group division, Port Washington, NY. Unit sales rose 4% to 36 million in the first quarter as well. Most sales were registered in the eye category, which grew 12%. However, sales in the face and lip categories were also up 8% and 5%, respectively. NPD said in a good economy, consumers spend more on luxury items. But heavy promotions also lead consumers to department store counters.
“It is a combination of the strength of existing products and the strength of new products,” said Dianne Barber, senior account manager, NPD Beauty, who also noted Sephora has increased the number of brands it carries. “In general, there is a lot of excitement with new brands and new products.”
Facial cosmetics represented the lion’s share of new product launches in the first quarter (54%), NPD Beauty reported. But some executives insist it is not just colors that matter, but the performance of the formulations.
“It seems that color products that include the latest and greatest skin care ingredients are leading the prestige market,” observed Tina Haviland, senior manager, global color product development, Avon Products. “Consumers will expect more efficacious products with faster-acting results.”
Plush and Lush
With autumn approaching, makeup colors will reflect cooler temperatures and warmer clothes. “Colors are tied into fashion, and as clothes get heavier, so do colors,” said NPD’s Ms. Barber.
In the prestige market, the Sweet Vintage collection, new from Lancôme this fall, promises glowing skin, smoky blue eyes and glamorous berry lips. Executives looked to old Hollywood style when creating the collection. To complement luxurious velvets, furs and rich satins, Sweet Vintage offers gem-like shades such as plum, gilded taupe, violet and hints of green and blue.
New Lancôme products include the Alter Ego Lip Palette 4 Rouges in berry tones and the 4Ever Colour Focus Palette 4 Ombres to create smoky eyes. To brighten skin, Lancôme will also unveil Base de Teint.
Vincent Longo will unveil his Velvet Luxe collection this fall, a melange of indigos and wines, browns and oranges and bold pinks and plums. The line complements fashions such as 1950s secretary haircuts, billowing blouses and upscale accessories this fall.
For bright and lustrous lips, Vincent Longo added three new lip liners and 10 Velvet Riche lipsticks. He also expanded added two eyeshadow trios, four Curl mascara shades and a new eyeliner pencil in Midnight (deep blue).
|Bobbi Brown’s Slopes palette gives a healthy, outdoor glow to the face.|
This month, Bobbi Brown is launching the Skin Slopes color palette to create a healthy, outdoor glow. It contains the new Slopes brush, new Cream eyeshadow, Espresso eyeshadow, new Slopes lip color and Beige lip color.
The mass market is also upping the ante with luxurious fall products. To define eyes, Markwins Beauty Products’ Tropez brand will add products such as crème eyeshadow with a hint of shimmer this fall. “In the fall, eyes are more smudgeable and smoky,” explained Tina Perez, marketing director and Wet ‘n’ Wild product manager, Markwins Beauty Products. “The face and skin are becoming more luminous and demure; the eyes and lips are where the drama gets going.”
To help achieve glowing skin, Wet ‘n’ Wild offers the Mega Glow Illuminator and Bronzzer. In 2005, Markwin’s Black Radiance brand will introduce the non-caking Perfect Tone loose powder with light reflective pigments.
Drugstore and Wal-Mart brand Rimmel London will launch its smoky SpecialEyes eyeshadows and Vinyl lip glosses in new shades and formulas this fall, according to executives.
|Colorlab’s new custom brand helps consumers create all kinds of products this fall.|
Some colors in the prestige market are darker and more dramatic than traditional browns and plums. Colorlab Cosmetics’ director of education, Lisa Ryan, said cobalt was seen on runways at fall fashion shows. Metallic, smoky and jewel-toned eyes will dominate as will stronger cheeks, shimmering body skin and sheer lips.
“Smoky eyes have been trending since last year with a softer look on lips and flushed cheeks, not nude cheeks,” Ms. Ryan said. “Shimmers and metallics are still very in. The more you layer, the more you want it, especially with colorful fabrics.”
If the eyes are left neutral, however, the lips will be burgundy-colored like Audrey Hepburn, Ms. Ryan said. “Luxury is a big fashion trend, and colors will reflect that,” insisted Ms. Ryan. “Most of the designs came from vintage eras with added luxury and elegance.”
Colorlab Cosmetics launched the Colorlab brand of customized cosmetics earlier this year and the line’s expanding to more department stores. Consumers can create mineral cosmetics in products such as Cheek Tints. Scents and sunscreen can also be added.
|Clinique added six new Colour Surge lipsticks to Modern Metallics.|
Modern Metallics, new from Clinique this month, was inspired by today’s music mavens. Executives said like the contrasting fabrics, rich velvets and metallic finishes on the runways, the collection features high luster lips and soft eyes.
Modern Metallics includes six new Colour Surge lipsticks, four new Colour Surge Lip Lacquer Demi-Matte Metallics and four Colour Surge Lip Lacquer High Shine Sheers with shade names such as Copper Flame and Drenched Pink. Also, six new Cream Shaper for Lips were added with velvety formulas and dual-ended color/brush pencils. Clinique rounds out the collection with Black High Impact mascara and Really Black Quickliner for Eyes.
Chanel’s holiday 2004 collection has sparkling, other-worldy colors with an emphasis on red, gold and silver, such as the Ocean Blue eyeliner and Cosmic Glossimer Extreme berry lip gloss.
Wella’s Trucco brand will launch the Seven collection this month. Executives said the mystical number seven and the seventh sense represent a heightened spiritual sense. The seven-shade range includes Ambrosia Duo blush in neutral pink and light rose, OptiErotic Reflective Duo eye color in royal purple and light lavender, Aromedi Graphic Liquid eyeliner in Metallic Green and Static (nude) and Electra (plum lilac) Sheer Identity lipstick.
Metal Effects is the new cosmetics collection from Evaflor’s Eclipse Colours Paris brand. Set to debut in October, several shades will be added to the Rouge Hypnotique lipsticks, Ombre de Star loose eyeshadow powders and Cosmos quartet eye shadows.
Mass market brand Cover Girl, No. 1 in the mass market face and lip brand categories according to IRI, will launch the crystal-inspired O Starry Night holiday collection. It features a lip kit, eye kit and 13 new WetSlicks Crystals lip gloss hues to create exceptional shine and shimmer. Lip gloss shades range from Icicle to Chocofix.
A Spring in Your Step
Some cosmetic mass marketers are adding hints of spring to fall. According to Cover Girl, fall fashions are inspired by the 1920s sophisticated flapper, the 1950s polished secretary and the 1970s spontaneous jet setter. Overall, neutrals dominate the autumn palette, with spring-like accents such as apple green, pink and lilac. In Cover Girl’s Pink Reincarnated fall collection, shades range from pink satin to mauve for lips, and apricot to guava on cheeks.
“New color collections are introduced about every three months in-cluding limited edition shades and on-trend products,” noted Anne E. Martin, vice president, global cosmetics and beauty marketing, Procter & Gamble.
Earlier this year, L’Oréal’s Maybel-line took on a new brand identity, becoming Maybelline New York, and will introduce the GreeneST palette next month inspired by New York streets. The range’s signature eye shade, a jewel-toned green, is complemented by neutral colors such as pinks and berries for the lips and cheeks, and light blushes and browns for the nails.
Maybelline GreenST eyeshadows are available in green shades such as Green Street, Fall Into Green, Green Light and Jade Shade, plus a waterproof liquid eye liner in Emerald.
To create that healthy glow, many prestige cosmetic companies are introducing sheer and shimmering makeup for the fall. Mineral makeup company La Bella Donna offers the Shimmering Neutrals range for autumn. The palette, which ranges from Deep Bronze to Snow eyeshadows, and Plum to Naturale Mineral Light lip shine and lipsticks, gives the face a warm glow. La Bella Donna also offers Compressed Mineral blush in Champagne that can be used either over foundation or as a bronzer.
Clarins unveils the True Emotions color collection this month with elegant and earthy colors highlighting subtle shimmer for the eyes and iridescent shine for the lips. The series includes new Nude Shimmers Colour Quartet for eyes (pink, aubergine, taupe and golden beige) and a Retractable lip liner in eight shades such as Dusty Rose and Tasty Toffee. Also, Clarins will offer Deep Shimmer Intense Eye Colour in Sage and Nude shades to create softly shimmering eyelids.
Lumiere D’Artifices, Chanel’s autumn collection, provides neutral colors to match tweed pants and knitted sweaters. Available in October, the line’s star product, Levres Impression de Chanel, offers creamy lip colors that are released from a spongy inkpad.
New Chanel products include the long-lasting and iridescent Ombre D’eau eyeshadows and the Fascination eyeshadow quad with burgundy, butter, pink and gray. To help protect the skin, Chanel offers Double Perfection Crème Poudre makeup with SPF 15.
Salon nail color brand OPI will expand into the lip category this month with Sheer Romance Lip Sheers by OPI. The gentle hues, such as brown and pink, balance out romantic eyes. The shades, such as Sheer Joy (cool pink), match existing nail colors.
“Together, glossy lips and well-manicured hands equal a put-together woman,” insisted Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI executive vice president and artistic director.
|Revlon’s Nude Slip collection highlights sheer, luminous color.|
In the mass market, the Revlon Nude Slip fall 2004 color collection offers a range of neutral, rose and nude shades infused with a mother-of-pearl tint. Executives said the look creates an ethereal glow that is both subtle and sexy. Revlon is the No. 1 lip cosmetic vendor in the mass market, according to IRI. The collection includes limited edition items such as Revlon’s Barely Rose Super Lustrous lipstick, Truth or Bare (gray and taupe brown) eyeshadow duo and Naked Lace (beige-gold) nail enamel. Permanent items include Rose Zing nail enamel, Toast to Shine Super Lustrous lip gloss and Blushed Super Lustrous lipstick, among others.
Revlon’s Almay division grew its Nearly Naked portfolio with Nearly Naked Touch-Pad blush in June. With a press of the finger, the lightweight liquid blush can be applied to the face. Four shades are available, from Bare Pink to Berry Nude.
Noiro Corp. and CVS teamed up to offer the fall Lumene cosmetic collection, Skin Couture. Executives said the palette features soft, nude tones with a touch of shimmer.
Fran Wilson Creative Cosmetics’ Treat My Lips with White Tea roll-on lip moisturizer will debut this month. The clear formula contains white tea, shea butter, tea tree oil and vitamin E.
Lots of Flavor
Another dominant trend in the prestige category is a focus on products that excite all of the senses, according to NPD Beauty. “We are seeing a lot of products with scents, textures and feelings,” observed NPD Beauty’s Ms. Barber. “A lot of these appeal to the senses and are more ‘scentual.’”
For instance, Jessica Simpson and D’lish Fragrance Inc. launched the Dessert Beauty makeup and fragrance line, which appeals to the senses of smell, touch and taste with items such as Deliciously Kissable Plumping Lip Fragrance glosses in flavors such as Juicy (ripe strawberry) and Dreamy (chocolate-coconut).
Lancôme’s Juicy Vernis nail glosses feature fruit-scented shades that last up to five days. Also new are Lancôme’s Juicy Wear Ultra-Lasting Full Colour and Shine lip duos this month that impart eight-hour shine in two steps.
Estée Lauder’s new Pure Color Cool Eye mousse delivers a cooling sensation to the eyelid. Pure Seduction, the fall collection from Estée Lauder, offers fig-scented Pure Color LipTints to create a watery wash of lip color.
Clinique’s new Super Balanced compact makeup SPF 20 is a spin-off of Clinique’s best-selling Superbalanced foundation. It delivers a cooling sensation and contains UVA/UVB sunscreens and Capillary Shell technology for moisture and oil control. Executives said the foundation lasts for eight hours and dries to a powdery finish due to light emollients and spherical powders. Super Balanced Compact makeup SPF 20 comes in 20 shades.
Makeup Gets Functional
As noted, colors aren’t the only aspects of makeup getting attention this fall. Several companies are launching updated formulas and revolutionary new technology.
“Over the years, consumers have been looking for both quality products at a reasonable price that are on par with today’s fashion, as well as products that offer added benefits to condition the skin and nails,” observed OPI’s executive vice president and artistic director Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. OPI Nail Lacquer protects against chipped and damaged nails.
Procter & Gamble’s Max Factor Colour Adapt foundation matches 95% of the natural skin variations on a woman’s face for a flawless finish. Typically, women need up to three foundations for full coverage, P&G said. It is available in nine shades, from Creamy Ivory to Rich Mocha.
“Max Factor Colour Adapt was created to fill this unmet need, by adapting to the different inherent color variations across the face without masking skin or sacrificing all-important coverage,” insisted Ms. Martin of P&G.
|Max Factor Lipfinity EverLites lipsticks are said to last for 10 hours.|
Also new from Max Factor is Lipfinity Everlites, a series of long-wearing creamy lipsticks that last up to 10 hours. P&G executives said besides shade, women said the most important aspect of a lip product is its long-wear ability. The Max Factor Lipfinity Everlites collection includes 21 shades such as Tickled, Cherished and Seductive, and all of them last through eating and drinking.
“Until now, there has been no single product designed specifically to meet the needs of women seeking long-wear lip color with a light touch,” insisted Ms. Martin.
Mass marketer Maybelline New York is launching DreamMatte Mousse foundation this month. Executives said the weightless formula provides complete, long-wearing coverage. It is available in 12 shades.
L’Oréal’s Volume Perfect Re-Shaping Lip Colour debuted in July. Enriched with the Essential Collagen complex, the lipstick is applied in two processes, first the re-shaping base and then the re-contouring color to help women achieve fuller lips.
In September, Wet ‘n’ Wild will launch new and exclusive eye and lip liner formulations that apply more smoothly, according to Jim Koeppl, senior vice president and general manager of Markwins Beauty Products.
In prestige, Eclipse Colours Paris introduces a new Cream foundation in September that lifts the skin and diminish fine lines and imperfections in four shades, executives said.
Guerlain Paris will launch Bubble blush next month, a mousse-textured rouge housed in a delicate glass jar. Executives describe it as feeling like a second skin due to its velvety finish. Five luminous shades will be available.
Direct-seller Avon Products is repositioning its Avon Color collection in September. Executives said the products contain the new Intuitive technology said to adjust to the skin’s specific needs, as well as new sleek and shimmering packaging. The star product of the launch, My Lip Miracle, is a long-wearing, shiny lipstick with hydrophobic pigments and gelled jojoba.
“Women are becoming increasingly demanding of their cosmetic products,” explained Avon’s Ms. Haviland. “Not only do they need to deliver beautiful color, but they also need to have additional benefits that address each woman’s individual needs.”
Several other products will debut in September with Intuitive technology, such as Avon’s Nailwear nail enamel that lasts 10 days, 12-hour True Color powder eyeshadows sold in quads, Glazewear Liquid lipcolor, several liners and two mascaras.
Multi-functional and travel-friendly products have proved to be popular with women, according to NPD Beauty.
“Another segment that has grown in the past year is this kind of ‘other’ category, which comprises things that don’t fall into face, eyes or lip categories necessarily, because they cross over,” explained Ms. Barber. “They are multi-purpose products. This is a much smaller category, but has definitely grown in the past few years.”
Many new and niche brands have items in this category, such as Benetint by Benefit, a sheer lip and cheek stain, and Nars The Multiple, a cream-to-powder, all-over makeup stick. Companies often mix products in one palette as well.
For instance, Givenchy Le Makeup, a 209-SKU prestige collection, offers portable items that are color-coded by category: lipstick-nail lacquer, eye, foundation and face powder. Executives said it replaces the Alexander McQueen-influenced Givenchy Miroir line and debuts next month.
“Consumers want versatile, and to some degree, natural items,” insisted Cargo Cosmetics president Hana Zalzal. “They don’t want something very shocking or trendy; they want something that compliments, but is still fun, experimental and fashion-forward.”
Toronto-headquartered Cargo Cosmetics will launch its fall and holiday 2004 “Be.you.tiful” cosmetics in aluminum pots. Fall items were inspired by American women and places, such as Arizona (soft camel and amethyst) sheer eyeshadow duo. In all, the fall collection contains seven new Cargo eyeshadow duos, two blushes and two Lip Gloss duos in sheer, warm tones.
Recently, single eyeshadow pots were doubled to duos to encourage women to experiment with color, which is very on-trend. “The trends are all about color,” Ms. Zalzal insisted. “You can see that everywhere. People feel good when they see color.”
In November, Cargo will roll out four new R.adiant E.ye M.ovement eyeshadow gels, two BeachBlushes, Panama (cherry) blush and Bella Bella (cranberry) lip gloss. Two limited edition Lip Gloss quads, Atlas and Compass, will be sold in Sephora.
For busy consumers, makeup artist Bobbi Brown will introduce the Creamy concealer kit this month to upscale retailers. It combines creamy concealer and sheer finish loose powder in a compact with a mirrored flip-top cap. In September, Bobbi Brown will launch the Creamy Concealer To Go, a compact combining three products.
Several fall items are geared toward girls, or the girl inside each woman. Some executives attribute the success of teen-like products to the success of former indies such as Urban Decay and Hard Candy. Australian brand Sugar Baby recently extended from bath products to a complete range of color cosmetics. The flirty, 1950sesque packaging houses products such as Glamour Puss Flawless Finish crème foundation, Cute Tips nail lacquer and Beauty Queen lip liner.
Avon’s mark. brand, designed just for teens, will add Crystal Aura Pout Potion, a high-shine gloss with liquid crystal prisms that is housed in a slim click-pen with a brush applicator.
“Young women are pretty cosmetic-savvy,” insisted Carissa Janes, creative director, Sugar Cosmetics, a division of R&S Trading Company, Irvine, CA. “They like novelty and fun combined with good quality. However, they still want youthfulness and color.”
Sugar Cosmetics launches the Storybook Sugar kits this month, which are sold in book-like compacts. Available in two versions, the Cloud 9 set offers sheer and dramatic colors and the Dream kit has frosted, icy colors. Each kit contains five eye shadows and five lip glosses.
|Sugar Cosmetics’ Storybook Sugar kits.|
Also this month, Sugar Cosmetics will add two Sugar Kisses lip gloss shades, two Eye Candy creases-resistant eye shadow duos and the Psychedelic Sugar collection. The most popular product, I Wink mini mascara set, offers travel-size packages, which appeal to teens.
“When we sell products in kits, girls and women alike feel that they can sample and try out different colors,” explained Ms. Janes, who also noted that girls travel to their girlfriends’ houses, use smaller bags and reapply makeup more than teens in the past.
This fall, Tarte Cosmetics is launching two eyeshadow palettes, each with eight eyeshadows and a mirror in a thin, purple leather compact. The Social Butterfly palette contains playful colors, while the Goody Two-Shoes palette has classic colors.
Also, executives said certain proceeds from Tarte’s new Heart-to-Tarte Slide Tin lip balms will go to the Young Survival Coalition, a breast cancer charity. The sheer lip balm has vitamin E, avocado oil and a candy color.
The Pampered Princess will also donate $5 from the sale of each Princess Kisses For A Cure lip shimmer in Pink Opal to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation in October.
Nail colors this fall are also coordinated with various fashions. Creative Nail Design’s Mogul collection was designed for pedigreed and irreverent women who are as bold and decisive in the business world as they are with their nail choices, according to the company. The products are sold in salons.
“Mogul colors are for a confident woman with a sporty edge,” observed Creative Nail Design co-founder Jan Arnold. “By week she runs a company; by weekend she goes skiing.”
Mogul contains Silver Anniversary No. 350 (glittering silver) to commemorate the company’s 25th anniversary. Heiress No. 351 (metallic purple) and Blue Blood No. 352 (midnight blue) are dark yet regal colors for short nails. Ms. Arnold said Flirt with Danger No. 353 (orangered) is predicted to be the most popular color of the season with its electric and clear color.
“Flirt with Danger is the one color that has been carried over from the summer into the fall,” explained Ms. Arnold. “It is perfect as an accent to a burgundy suit or a tweed jacket.”
The Mogul collection also includes Red Baroness No. 354, a metallic garnet and Trust Fund No. 355 (metallic topaz), a tarnished, golden, neutral shade that resembles an heirloom.
With the launch of the company’s Spa manicure and pedicure line this summer, Creative Nail Design plans to expand into the skin care market.
In July, mass market leader Cover Girl upgraded its Continuous Color Nails under the You Gotta Have Sol collection. It offers 25 new shades and 15 classic shades, 18 of which correspond with Continuous Color lipsticks. They range from Clear Ice to Copperccino.
This fall/winter, OPI will introduce the Canadian Collection by OPI, a range of 12 Nail Lacquers, three of which have a matching Lip Liner and Lip Colour under the Suzi’s Picks line.
“The collection complements the luxurious colors, textures and techniques of feminine style seen on this season’s fashion runways—flapper flirtiness, movie star glam, vintage sweetness, hippie chic, modern classics—with a decidedly new edge,” said OPI’s Ms. Weiss-Fischmann.
The matching products include Niagara Falls for OPI (mocha), Nice Color, Eh? (berry) and Mauving to Manitoba (purple-rose).
Markwin’s Black Radiance brand is treatment-oriented this fall with 10 nail colors and treatment items that enhance nail growth. Included is a nail whitener that allows the natural color of nails to shine through, according to product manager Claire Dennis.
By year-end, Markwins’ Ms. Perez predicts, “Nails will become muted with a twist. For instance, women will use a pearlized pink instead of a matte pink in French manicures.”
A Sight to Behold
This fall, the eyes have it! In department stores, Chanel defines eyes in its Lumiere D’Artifices collection with the new Ecriture de Chanel automatic liquid eyeliner in black and brown, as well as Extracils Super Curl Lengthening mascara. Estée Lauder’s Pure Color EyeLiner offers a smudge-proof and lasting effect, according to executives. It comes in colors such as Khaki, Indigo and Pure Black.
October will see the launch of direct-seller Avon’s Perfect Wear LongLasting mascara. In addition to Intuitive technology, the mascara has Lash-Fidelity technology with lash-adhering fibers and a formula that resists water, tears, sweat, rain and sebum.
DHC USA, a catalog-based company, plans to launch several products this fall and winter such as a Soft Touch eyebrow pencil. Also, Black, Black Brown and Brown smudge-resistant shades are available in the new vitamin E-enriched eyeliner pencils, lengthening Mascara Long Lash and thickening Mascara Wide Lash.
For consumers with an eyebrow plucking mishap, Talika Paris offers the professional Eyebrow Extender. This transparent gel instantly plumps up, shapes, darkens and tames brows to cover over-plucked or patchy eyebrows. It is sold in Sephora.
In the mass market, Max Factor lengthens and separates lashes with Stretch & Separate Waterproof mascara. P&G executives said the formula separates and lengthens eyelashes without clumping or smearing. The hypoallergenic mascara contains micronized iron oxide pigments to create the Rich Black shade. It is also available in Black Brown.
Under the Pink Reincarnated fall collection, P&G’s Cover Girl unveiled the Multiplying mascara with a Lash Duplication complex to create non-sticking and fuller-looking lashes, as well as an advanced liquid crystal formula for increased lash length.
“We’ve learned that a woman’s ideal lash look is full and long lashes, and that separation is the most important unmet need,” said P&G’s Ms. Martin.
Many executives expect new cosmetic products to tie-in nicely with fall fashions, but they expect weakness in the eye category. “Face products will probably be highlighted for us this fall and will continue into the next year,” insisted Markwins’ Mr. Koeppl.
And there is new technology to look forward to as well. For instance, Sothys Paris will introduce Profile Color Concept in the spring, a chromatic makeup system that takes into account complexion color, hair color, eye color and general appearance to find complementing shades and textures.
Regardless of fashion trends, expect more advancement in the ever-changing world of color cosmetics in the coming year as well.