The Doctor Is In

December 1, 2005

New options for treating skin problems are creating a surge in the demand for professional skin care products.

The Doctor Is In

New options for treating skin problems are creating a surge in the demand for professional skin care products.

Susan A. Eliya - Associate Editor

Dermatologists are increasing their involvement in the cosmetic market. The increasing advancements in technology and knowledge of disease processes are influencing the research and development efforts of the industry, along with the decision of what products to pursue.

Institut’ DERMed’s Anti-Oxidant Moisture Mask holds moisture in the cells to assist new growth.
“Consumer spending toward higher priced products, an increase in physician offices and retail stores carrying professional skin care products and heightened consumer awareness of the benefits of using category products all fuel market growth,” said Linda Schreck, director of product development, cosmeceutical, SkinMedica Inc., Carlsbad, CA.

According to Little Falls, NJ-based Kline & Company’s Professional Skin Care Market 2004 report, The U.S. Professional Skin Care Market has grown at an average annual rate of 12.6% since 1999 to reach $679 million in sales and is forecast to remain one of the fastest-growing sectors of the cosmetics and toiletries industry.

A recent report from Kline & Company concluded that the professional skin care market is forecast to remain one of the fastest-growing sectors of the cosmetics and toiletries industry. Now, market consolidation and overseas expansion are bolstering the market segment further.

Virginia Lee, senior research analyst for Euromonitor said that the market for professional skin products began with patients seeking out doctors’ recommendations because of the dermatologist’s medical training and the need for individualized attention. She added that dermatologists want to provide professional grade products to their patients, offering convenience and improved patient compliance.


Doctor, Doctor

Customers’ trust of doctors continues to assist in the growth of the market. According to preliminary research from Kline & Company’s Professional Skin Care 2005 market study, worldwide sales for products sold through spas and salons and dermatologist and plastic surgery clinics exceeded $2 billion last year and have been growing at double-digit rates, in contrast to growth of only 4% for traditional cosmetic and toiletry products.

“If you look at the growth of professional skin care, you will find that consumers have tremendous confidence in the use of topical agents under the supervision of skin care professionals in tandem with in-office procedures,” noted Ms. Schreck.

“Professional skin treatments differ from OTC treatments as they are stronger treatments that typically yield better results,” added Jeanine B. Downie, M.D., director, Image Dermatology PC, Montclair, NJ. “They lead to improved texture, tone, less acne and decreased fine lines and are necessary because people want faster, longer-lasting and better results from a professional, certified dermatologist.”

“Customers want to see results,” said Carolyn Veroni, director of business development, Dermazone Solutions, Clearwater, FL. “If a consumer really wants a solution, the best bet is to speak with a professional educated on that topic.”

A recent study by Euromonitor International concluded that dermatologists have connected with consumers via television. While dermatologists have always been involved in the development of skin care products, only recently have they come out of their labs and into people’s living rooms.

Two well-known dermatologists that started the evolution of professional skin treatments are Dr. NV Perricone and Dr. Howard Murad.

According to Kline and Company, Dr. Perricone has a 6.8% share of the market. He holds U.S. and international patents for the treatment of skin and systemic diseases, and for the topical anti-inflammatories for reversing and preventing damage to skin caused by factors such as age, the sun, the environment and hormonal changes.

With 11 patents and several pending, Dr. Murad was one of the first dermatologists to launch his own skin care line. He was also one of the first to formulate with exfoliating alpha hydroxy acids to treat the signs of aging and to utilize antioxidants to treat environmental damage and signs of aging.

“Professional skin treatments are better than OTC treatments because they are performed by medical professionals who can target problems in a more direct manner for faster results,” said Liz Newman, director of aesthetic marketing, Laserscope, San Jose, CA.

Tonya Grismer, customer service manager, Institut’ DERMed, Atlanta, GA, said, “People want guidance, and physician-to-patient hand-holding.”

What’s Your Problem?

Consumers are looking for products that focus on their specific problems. They want efficient, visible results that target their particular requests. Skin conditions that customers are looking to treat include sensitivity, irritation, acne, environmental damage, hyperpigmentation and diseases such as rosacea, psoriasis and melasma.

“Customers are looking for specialized and differentiated products for very specific uses, skin type or skin conditions,” said Ms. Schreck. “Customers demand higher quality products that work faster and better.”

Immunoderm is scientifically proven to activate and enhance skin cells.
Recently, Dermagenetics, an anti-aging skin care product marketed by GeneLink, Hawthorne, NY, was introduced. After a non-intrusive swab of the inner lining of the cheek, the Dermagenetics lab measures genetic propensity for collage breakdown, photo aging, wrinkling, skin aging, the skin’s ability to tolerate environmental pollutants and overall skin health.

Institut’ DERMed, Atlanta, GA, introduced antioxidant skin therapy. The company’s Cell Renewal Polish is an exfoliating scrub formulated with zeolite minerals, date seeds, jojoba beads and fruit enzymes to gently remove dead cell build-up, stimulate circulation and even skin tone. The Anti-Oxidant Moisture Mask is formulated with spin trap molecules that attract and stop free radical reactions that damage healthy cells.

SkinMedica, Carlsbad, CA, offers facial masks developed by dermatologist Dr. Richard E. Fitzpatrick, each targets a different skin problem. The TNS Hydrating Masque reduces visible signs of aging, the Purifying Masque is ideal for acne-prone skin and the  Calming Masque hydrates dry and sensitive skin.

Kinerase Hydrating Antioxidant Mist ($35), Under Eye Rescue Cream ($75) and Lip Treatment ($38) have been introduced by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International. The products’ key ingredient, kinetin, allows the skin to retain moisture, making it feel firmer and healthier.


A Remedy for Sensitivity

In addition to anti-aging products, consumers are also looking for resolutions to sensitive, easily irritated skin and redness, as well as uneven pigmentation. While many people may presume that these problems solely affect the face, they extend to other parts of the body, as skin diseases tend to do.

Immunocorp’s Immunoderm was developed by a team of Norwegian scientists and has been scientifically proven to activate and enhance human skin repair cells. The product promises to stimulate collagen to reduce wrinkles and resolve skin problems.

Richard Waggoner, chief executive officer, Immunocorp, Irvine, CA shares that Immuderm was not initially intended for the cosmetic market but the effects were so profound, that is now marketed as a skin care product.

Skin Medica’s Purifying Masque is a cooling gel ideal for acne-prone or problem skin. It combines the therapeutic benefits of ingredients such as natural camphor, rosemary, tea tree, and standardized willow bark extract to aid in oil absorption and help deep clean pores. The Calming Masque gently absorbs impurities and hydrates dry and sensitive skin and soothe and moisturize inflamed skin with ingredients such as ceramide, phytosterol, olive oil, soybean oil, marshmallow, green tea, oat and alpha bisabolol.

While it may seem that women are the main target for these types of treatments, product developers haven’t forgotten men. With the increased acceptance of male-grooming products, developers have taken advantage of the opportunity to target guys.

PCA Men introduced the Total Strength Line and Pore Minimizer, a skin strengthening serum. The product delivers the latest in peptide technology with Matrixyl 3000, a tetrapeptide clinically proven in clinical studies to dramatically decrease wrinkle depth, density and volume. The new formula also delivers epidermal growth factors to boost cell proliferation, phytoactive milk thistle extract to repair skin damaged by UV and environmental exposure and pure hyaluronic acid for moisture, according to the company.

Dermazone Solutions’ products are professional products sold via doctors and other skin care professionals. They are designed, tested, manufactured and warehoused to pharmaceutical standards. The new Celazome Tip Treat is a cuticle exfoliator, moisturizer and protectant in one. The product claims to remove dry, dead skin while moisturizing and defending fingers and toes from everyday damage.

“Our patented nanotechnology allows us to encapsulate ingredients for time release so the product can both effectively exfoliate and moisturize without each process interfering with the other,” noted Ms. Veroni.

Celazome defends fingers and toes from everyday damage.
Tip Treat’s formula contains pineapple extract to dissolve dead skin and speed the development of healthy new cells. Lecithin acts as a soothing moisturizer, while sodium hyaluronate and hydrating lyphazone nanospheres deliver water to thirsty skin. Dimethicone and petrolatum form a protective barrier to prevent epidermal water loss and ensure the product’s effectiveness through daily activities such as hand washing.

“I see a trend toward more sophisticated ingredients through the use of high tech advancements and biochemical research. With the availability of such ingredients we can improve existing formulas and design new products delivering results that were not possible before,” Ms. Veroni said.


Professional Devices

Not every skin remedy comes in a jar. More dermatologists are turning to higher technological solutions. An advanced laser treatment from Laserscope uses a 532nm laser to seal facial veins and remove pigmented lesions. The Gemini laser system is designed to provide non-invasive aesthetics treatments and is only available from licensed physicians.

Ms. Newman said, “Lasers are more selective than other light sources so they clear conditions like problem pigmentation or redness more quickly than with an intense pulsed light source. The Gemini laser system offers two wavelengths, so it can treat pigmentation or veins, as well as deeper problems, like wrinkles, and help tighten skin.”

The Epilar System was launched after more than 12 years of development.
Ona Touch, a new laser technology that uses the Harmony AFT Laser Light Unit, stimulates the production of collagen and practically erases discoloration and dark spots, according to the company. Created by Eugenia Shakhnoff, Ona’s on-staff registered nurse and Dr. Stanley P. Frileck, spa co-owner and plastic surgeon, the procedure consists of two parts. The first part is performed by an aesthetician; the second part is performed by Ms. Chakhnoff. The treatment concludes with a calming chamomile mask and is completedd with the application of 65 SPF sun block.

A European system for hair growth reduction has recently been introduced in the U. S. The Epilar System was launched by physicians in Denmark after more than 12 years of development including two years of clinical trials and testing.

“The Epilar System is efficient and without side effects, and costs much less than other professional depilation methods,” explained Peter Lassen, sales and marketing director, Los Angeles, CA. “Unlike laser and electrolysis, professionals do not need to invest in expensive equipment nor do they need special training or authorizations.” Additionally, the Epilar System is easily performed after a simple waxing procedure (4-5 minutes) and actually soothes the skin.”

The Inhibitor gel contains Trypsin, an enzyme that acts on the proteins in hair follicles to inhibit hair growth. Next, Activator gel is applied to activate the Trypsin and transport it to the bottom of the follicle. The system reduces hair and leaves skin soft between treatments.


An Appointment with The Future

The professional skin care market is growing as the demand for efficient, reliable products that effectively solve skin problems increases. According to Kline and Company, the market is highly fragmented with more than 100 players and is projected to experience moderate but noteworthy growth through 2009.

According to Kalorama Information, publishing division of MarketResearch.com, the demand for products in this market will likely remain high due to the aging population and the quest for lifestyle treatments to meet the needs of aging baby boomers.

“The large number of baby boomers seeking ways to control the aging process increases the demand for professional skin care,” stated Tonya Grismer, customer service manager, Institut’ DERMed, Atlanta, GA. Media also helps promote professional skin care with various shows.”

Numerous factors shaping this field include dermatologists’ increasing involvement in cosmetic dermatology, new options for treating aging skin and an increasing role of biologics in dermatology.

Going forward, antiaging and photodamage, psoriasis and skin cancer treatments are expected to grow the fastest.   Psoriasis growth will reflect new approvals of products in the biological area. Skin cancer will also see consumer demand as a driving force due increasing reported cases and new advancements in technology, reported Kalorama.

Although the demand for these products is strong, Ms. Grismer noted that mass marketed products are everywhere and the heavy advertising and visibility make them hard to beat.

“The professional skin care market will not overtake the mass market because professional products are price-prohibitive to the mass market audience. Those who do not live in a metropolitan area will not have access to skin care professionals or professional products,” stated Ms. Schreck.

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