Autumnal Previews

December 9, 2005

Fall cosmetic trends sparkle to make sales shine.

Color cosmetics will provide some glitz and glamour this autumn, as marketers focus on posh, tweedy styles, juxtapositions in color and lots of shimmer and metallic enhancements to the color palette, experts tell Happi.

As was the case last year, eye color was the best category in mass markets for the year ended June 12, 2005, with a 5.6% increase to $792.5 million in the mass market, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), Chicago. Other categories declined however, as sales of nail polish fell 2.3% to $239.5 million and lip products dropped 3.8% to $617.5 million. The facial cosmetics category rose 3.8% to $898 million, IRI reported. These results do not include Wal-Mart sales.

However, the prestige makeup category grew 7% in 2004, as makeup sales reached $2.8 billion, according to Karen Grant, beauty industry expert, NPD Beauty, an NPD Group division. In fact, makeup remained the most consistent performer within the beauty industry, outperforming total prestige beauty sales for the sixth consecutive year, said NPD.

The strongest category in prestige color cosmetics in the past year was classified as Other Color, which included portable, multi-purpose products such as makeup kits with lip, cheek and eye colors in one handy pocket size palette. This category, while small, was the fastest growing segment in makeup with a 22% gain in dollar sales. Among the large makeup segments, the eye category grew 11% this year. This growth was supported by positive performance in every segment of this category including eye shadow, eye liner and mascara.

"Consumers continue to look for beauty products that provide value and convenience," explained Ms. Grant. "In makeup, this need is met by products that have consistently had relatively low price increases (under 4% each year), a steady influx of new variations in multipurpose products, expanded palette and cross-category offerings."

What's in Store

Experts agree that bold colors will reign supreme in the new season, overstepping the more traditional, somber shades usually associated with the autumn.

Lisa Ryan, director of education for Colorlab Cosmetics explained, "Color trends for fall range from khaki/brown nudes for eyes, soft pink cheeks and matte beige lips to vibrant violets, reds, mustard yellow, warm greens or silvery blues on eyes, soft red cheeks and sheer soft red lips."

In order to emphasize the significance of a new fall look, Colorlab utilizes complimentary makeup sessions to introduce new seasonal shades or formulations. They also offer sneak previews of seasonal trends and advanced opportunities to have seasonal products custom blended.

"For the fall/winter season, the eyes and lips will take center stage in this rich season of color," says industry expert Vincent Longo. The eyes are sophisticated by day and dramatic at night when done in the season's most striking colors: wine, cobalt, salmon, lilac, chocolate, jade, deep purple and warm pink. The lips look best in high-shine, tender shades of plum, berry, ruby red and burgundy. The cheeks are soft with a warm rose or golden peach glow.

"The fall brings cooler weather and more structured, tailored fashions, and this season, trends dictate that clients exude a sense of sophistication and magnetic sexiness when dressing well. In beauty as in fashion, a few sexy things -be it a bit of sparkling eye drama or a perfect pout-are all that is needed to complete one's look," commented Mr. Longo.

The new Fall/Winter 2005 Sexy Things collection from Vincent Longo includes two duo-sided eye pencils, four trio eye shadows, seven classic lip stain lipsticks (now with SPF 15) and two lip pencils.

"The clothes we are seeing for fall are very feminine and chic, yet sexy," say executives at Clinique. "There is a balance of naughty and nice and we played up the idea with the signature look we created for fall. The key accessory for this season is the eye. The lips play a key complementary role to the eyes. They are pale and innocent, but they are equally important in balancing the overall tone and mood of the look."

Purple is definitely one of the dominant colors of the season and within Clinique's fall line. The variation of violets along with gray and green compliment each other to create a sexy, sultry eye. Fall '05 is all about contradictions, say Clinique executives, and faces will be balanced with smoldering eyes in shades such as plum, gray, and peacock, which will exude an air of sophistication. Lips on the other hand, will be innocent with a touch of color like pale pink with a glossy finish and cheeks will be lightly dusted to give them a natural rosy glow.

Clinique's fall 2005 trend collection is full of contrasts. The key focus is eyes intensely lined with the new Kohl Shaper eye liner and shaded in violet and charcoal from the new Colour Surge Eye Shadow Quad. An accent of teal adds another dimension to the smoky eye effect. Lips in shimmering tones of soft pink and violet offer a subtle contrast to the bold eyes. Clinique's new Blushing Blush powder blush in iced lotus, a delicate pearly pink, and smoldering plum, a soft, sheer purple, accents cheeks with a feminine glow.

Clinique usually includes limited edition products in seasonal trend collections. Limited edition products add an element of playfulness and fun to a collection, which tends to turn them into cult items, says Clinique. This fall these include Kohl Shaper for Eyes in blackened teal, Colour Surge Eye Shadow Super Shimmer in charcoal and peacock and High Impact mascara in sultry plum.

Giella Custom Blend Cosmetic's fall line includes Smoothie cream liners for eyes in hues such as Bordeaux, jet and midnight-all blended with a hint of icy shimmer. Smoothie cream liners contain highly pigmented mica powders for long lasting vibrant color and retail for $20.

Custom Cream concealer is a lightweight cover-up that can be mixed to match a variety of skin tones. Light-reflecting minerals in the base formulation work to diminish fine lines, pores and scars. It's available in a duo-well compact ($28), swing compact ($25) and stick ($25).

According to NPD, color palettes are one of the fastest growing cosmetic segments. Tarte Cosmetics offers the PopTarte compact with several shades to choose from.

Tarte Cosmetics responded to the need for increased consumer choices by expanding its range of kits and palettes. Tri-fold eye shadow palettes have been very successful. This fall they're launching a shadow palette with four shades (Platinum Princess), as well as a mini lip gloss set that contains three double-ended lip glosses (Trust Fund Baby). Other combination kits include The Temptress, The Siren, Paradise Found and the Garden of Eden sampler kit.

The latest collection from Lorac is Paparazzi Princess, which includes the Paparazzi Pencil for the eye in brown with glitter, Lotsa Lash fiber mascara in black or brown, Croc Palette eye shadow and blush, lip gloss palette and eye/cheek palette including champagne and merlot eye shadow and faux glow blush.

The Chanel fall color collection was inspired by the poetic qualities of the Far East. Coromandels de Chanel accents cheeks with a copper tone while intense blacks and golds define eyes. Poudre Coromandel is a pale pink powder, dusted with soft gold pearl. Iréelle Silky eye shadow duo comes in eight shade combos from pearls to mattes. Vitalumiére Crème compact is a smoothing crème with SPF 15. Double Perfection Crème Poudre features SPF 15.

Shimmer Trends

Ms. Grant, NPD Beauty, advises, "The trend for winter of 2005 will be festive and shimmery. Whether a woman wants to glitter, sparkle, or shine, she'll be able to find a myriad of iridescent, frosted, and glistening new products on the market. From metallic lipstick to iridescent eye shadow, shimmer blush to luminizing powder, sparkle promises to be everywhere, even in eyeliner."

Sparkling cosmetics are indeed all the rage this autumn, as marketers compete to get their glittering makeup in stores and on counters before the leaves fall.

"This fall, there are a lot of deep, rich metallics for eyes (bronze, copper, gold, gunmetal, olive, plum) while the rest of the face is kept very matte and natural," explains Alexis Mezzina, communications director, Tarte Cosmetics. "Alternately, the focus is on lips-a rich pink color on the mouth with a more subtle pink on cheeks, and then a nearly naked eye with a great mascara."

Looks like a nail polish...but goes on the lips! Da Bomb lip polish from Lorac promishes big shine.

"For fall '05, it's all about metallic finishes, berry lips and dramatic eyes with deep jewel tones such as emerald, amethyst and gold," commented Origins' Julie Shown, assistant manager, global product development. Origins has introduced the Halo Effect Collection Instant Illuminator for eyes and face. The weightless, oil-free, pearly liquid of Instant Illuminator for face accentuates the positives and eliminates the negatives for a radiant, flawless, angelic glow. The highlighter provides a translucent finish for all skin types and casts a natural, ethereal shine to highlight facial features. The price for 0.5 fl. oz/15 ml is $16.

Halo Effect Instant illuminator for eyes is available in September. The mica-based, citrus essential oil blend provides a lasting, pearlized finish to eyelids. Available in three shades, Gold Leaf, Pink Petal and Green Light, the sheer highlighter is the perfect companion to Halo Effect Instant illuminator for face. The price for .17 fl. oz/5 ml is $12.50.

Sothys Paris' Street 'n Tweed color collection for fall/winter is inspired by nubby, neutral English tweeds and the wild colors of the hip London fashion scene, blending classic luminous hues and soft winter pastels.

A seasonal color extension of Sothys' new Profile Color Concept, Street 'n Tweed also combines the latest skin care technology with the latest fashion trends to create high-performance cosmetics that complement every woman's individual beauty. The collection includes Checkered Care powder in Absolutely Romantic-a shimmering brick of checkered powders in alternating pearlescent bronze and cream; Two-Way eye shadow in shades of heather, soft rose and metallic gray; Creamy eye shadow in a violet, long-lasting, iridescent formula; and Sparkling eye pencil, a creamy formula in dramatic gunmetal. Infused with active ingredients such as jojoba oil and vitamin E, the formula is long lasting, waterproof and non-drying. The Street 'n Tweed collection will be available at Sothys spas and salons nationwide in October 2005.

"Metallics are a trademark of Giella Custom Blend Cosmetics, said founder Giella Poblocki. "We make it our business to step into your makeup routine and revamp it with our new metal cosmetic colors for face, eyes, lips, cheeks and nails. We can give the right depth, intensity and undertone of gold, silver, copper and pewter to work with hair, eye and skin color. For Fall 2006, we also see colors such as deep green, aqua blue, lemon yellow and rusted oranges to work with these metals. Texture also continues to be important.

Au Natural

Even so, with all the talk of glamour and luxury, there are many who still appreciate the natural look and products featuring more natural ingredients. Leading mass cosmetic brand Cover Girl focuses on women who want a clean, fresh natural beauty look but don't want to spend a lot of time or money achieving it.

Recently, Cover Girl introduced two new products in-store: Outlast Liquid makeup and Custom Compacts. Outlast is a patented two-step system that includes a base coat with primer, a color topcoat with SPF and a long-wear formula. Custom Compacts allow consumers to purchase an empty compact which can be filled and refilled with magnetized pots of lip color, lip gloss and eye shadow in a wide range of shades.

The Cover Girl Fall 2005 Tea with Ginger Color Collection includes color trends that extend the glow from summer. Shades with bronze and peachy undertones are in for lips, eyes and cheeks.

"In 2006, Cover Girl plans to introduce a host of new offerings to keep the consumer's beauty looks fresh and fun," commented Cheryl Hudgins, associate director, Cover Girl global communications.

Rosie Jane Cosmetics is all about natural beauty. "Not covering up what you don't have, but enhancing what you do have," said Rosie Johnston, creator and founder of Rosie Jane Cosmetics, Los Angeles and Sydney. "Every year the look is becoming more and more natural. Clean faces, slight definition of the eyes and radiant glowing skin. I think the colors for fall are earth tones, deep browns, caramels and neutrals but with a difference, colors used on the eyes will have a shimmer."

This year, Rosie Jane launched Cheek Gloss in three colors, Poppy (deep plum) Marigold (bronze gold) and Rose (soft pink) as well as Eye Hints cream eye shadow in three colors, Hint of Lavender (with shimmer), Buttercup Bronze and Rain Lily (mint green).

Miles Perdiguerra, marketing director of catalog-based company DHC, adds, "We think that splashy, sparkling eyes will definitely be in for Fall 2005. Why should spring and summer have all the fun? Even though understated, earthy tones seem de rigueur for fall fashion, we believe women will want colorful, standout, and attention-getting eyes. That's why this September we're debuting DHC Eye Shadow Moon-10 pigment-rich shadows with just the right amount of shimmer and sparkle to complement any autumn look. In 2006, we think women will once again be inspired by natural-looking beauty."

Because DHC products are based on properties of extra virgin olive oil and contain no added fragrances, they are naturally gentle, even to sensitive skin. They have specialized products to address a wide variety of skin care concerns, including excessive dryness, wrinkles, and loss of firmness, elasticity, and radiance. There is also a brightening line to improve uneven skin tone.

Hotntrendy has launched a 100% pure mineral makeup line called element5. It includes 36 shades in 12 color combinations and can be used as eye shadow, eye liner, nail polish, mascara, hair highlighter, body glitter, body shimmer, bronzer and blush. Element5 has virtually no allergy risk, won't clog pores or irritate sensitive skin and can be used by all skin types, according to the company.

In October, Yves Rocher will extend its Yria line with the new Radiant blush and Smoothing eye shadow duos. Both contain white tea extract, an antioxidant that fights free radicals. The eye shadow comes in five shades; the blush comes in four shades and also contains ginseng. Both retail for $20.

Aveda, the maker of plant-based makeup, introduced its fall/winter 2005 makeup collection called Live Brightly. The fresh shades feature rich, bold hues, complemented with nude, shimmery metallics. The line features Petal Essence eye color duos in azurite/iris and garnet/coral root, eye color singles in dahlia and vinca, foxglove lip liner, honeysuckle lip shine, carnelian lip glaze, Uruku cheek-lip crème in roselle and Mosscara in larkspur.

Also available is Petal Essence Triple Accent, a double-ended, two-shade jumbo pencil for eyes, cheeks and lips. Mineral- and plant-derived ingredients include organic, aromatic floral waxes derived from jasmine flowers and geranium plants, oil of orchid, a berry complex and jojoba and sunflower oils. The pencil wood comes from sustainably-managed forests. It's ophthalmologist tested and retails for $18.

A Fat Lip

Lipstick is considered an essential to any woman, the one cosmetic she can't leave home without. According to experts, the look for fall will include bold colors of red, brown and pink with a touch of gold.

Guerlain introduced KissKiss lipstick with soft, sensual packaging by Herve Van Der Staeten. According to Linda Maiocco, Guerlain's VP of marketing, this was an important step to attract new customers. "It's the ultimate in contemporary luxury and includes a beautiful range of colors, all with gold undertones and understated shimmer, organized in four categories. Our holiday collection tells a winter makeup fairytale of frost, snow and jewels. We wanted it to create a healthy winter glow illuminated by a frost effect."

Avon Shine Supreme Lip Color features Avon's first-to-market, patent-pending Rejuvi-Shine Technology, an exclusive blend of emollients, which adhere to the lips to deliver long-lasting color. Fifteen shades will be available in the U.S. for $8 each.

According to Kim Waite, Stila global public relations, Stila's best selling product in the past 12 months has been the lip glaze. "Especially since we listened to our clients and increased the amount of product and size to more than double the amount of gloss. Clients love the ease of the product, the great colors, extremely high shine and great scent," said Ms. Waite.

From the Sothy Paris new fall Street 'n Tweed collection comes the Hydra-Glide lipstick in beige thé. Active ingredients include shea butter for hydration, Aquafix for its lip-plumping properties, and a blend of anti-aging vitamin E, allantoin and Sepilift.

Lip Stain SPF 15 from Vincent Longo is an ultra silky, sheer color, high gloss formula that delicately tints the lips. Aloe vera and vitamin E continuously moisturize the lips with a hint of vanilla. Shades available are Americana, Belle Etoile, Foolish Virgin, Foxina, Madison, Nolita and Nude. They retail for $23. The blendable, yet smudge-resistant and long-wearing lip pencils are available in Wine and Grape and retail for $21.50.

Colour Surge Impossibly Glossy from Clinique has names such as Beach Bunny, Crushed Opal and the limited edition Loveable Plum. Long Last Soft Shine lipstick coats lips with shimmery Heather Moon and Silvery Moon color that has a soft satin shine. Both lip products retail for $14.50.

Big Sexy Lips from Sexy Hair Concepts is a dual-ended gloss that comes in nine hues, with names such as Puppy Love, Last Dance, Wedding Night and Stolen Embrace. One end of the gloss is a neutral color that acts as a primer for lips, using an ingredient that accelerates blood flow to create a swollen pout. The polish end provides shade, moisture and a mixed berry flavor. Big Sexy Lips contains antioxidants, vitamins A and E and aloe vera.

Yves Saint Laurent launched the mango-scented Rouge Pure Shine sheer lipstick for $26. It contains an SPF 15, lycopenes to protect mucous membranes and extract of stevia, a sweet herb from Paraguay renowned for its softening properties. Rouge Pure Shine is available in 12 shades, divided into three families of tawnies, brights and pastels.

Lip Dew from Rosie Jane Cosmetics contains shea butter and beeswax.

Lip Dew from Rosie Jane Cosmetics contains shea butter and beeswax, and can be used alone or blended over lip pencil. The gloss retails for $18 and comes in three colors: Tara Tottergrass, clear with a vanilla flavor; Apple Blossom, hot pink with apple and raspberry flavor; and Elderberry, a bronze with a berry flavor.

The fall collection from Lorac includes Da Bomb lip polish. Packaged like a nail polish, it comes in a deep plum color with added shimmer and a vanilla-mint scent. There's also Lip Addiction, a high-shine gloss infused with capsicum, a natural extract that gives a stimulating sensation in two degrees-Hot and Super Hot. Both the polish and the gloss retail for $17.50.

Adding a Certain Polish

It's all about luxury in nail color and care for the fall this year. OPI's Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive VP and artistic director, explains, "Consumers are looking to connect with the brand, and trends in color. We connect with women through our imaginative collection locations, the fun names and of course, the color selection. Women are looking for little luxuries that make them feel good. OPI is one of the most affordable luxuries that one can have for nails and lips. A little color on fingertips and toes makes women feel good and look better."

Ms. Weiss-Fischmann insists that autumn colors will include a lush palette of saturated pinks and reds, like raspberry, and grape and browned neutrals softened by winter pastels. OPI will offer peel-off stickers that the consumer can place on nails. The stickers come in booklets that are included with displays.

According to Jan Arnold, co-founder of Creative Nail Design, the nail for fall 2005 is short, tailored and enameled in inky dark teal, raisin or burgundy. The colors are so heavily pigmented they look black until they catch the light. The darks are highlighted with rich creamy fuchsia, ochre or vermillion. She also agrees that luxury is a key component in marketing nail color.

"By far, our best selling cosmetic product in the past 12 months has been the new professional service called the Creative Nail Design Custom Blended manicure. Nail professionals choose from a palette of 24 pigmented powders to mix with a liquid bonding agent and create a semi-permanent coating for the nails that lasts up to three weeks. They can exactly match the natural nail bed and camouflage imperfections, match a prom dress or anything in between. This is the 21st century answer to perfectly groomed, low maintenance nails."

Protective Nail Enamel from the Sothy's fall Street 'n Tweed collection is an advanced formula that polishes in a long-lasting sparkling, translucent pinky-beige color. Moisturizing seaweed extracts and nail-strengthening cysteine nourish and protect nails, while high-tech, micro-color technology delivers radiant color. Its quick-drying and chip-resistant formula is also toluene-, camphor-, formaldehyde- and phthalate-free, according to company executives.

New nail colors for the season from Giella lean toward pure metals: Butt In is a yellow gold, Fool With is silver and Enroach is a copper for fingers and toes.

After the Fall?

Trends can be very unpredictable, but still the experts try dilligently to stay on top of the next big look. For Spring 2006, Tarte Cosmetics' emphasis will be on a lot of cool, pop tones. Rather than the earthy, bohemian sort of peach/coral and turquoise/gold color scheme of spring 2005, they're expecting more clear, bright pinks and purples, and jewel-toned greens and blues such as cerulean and tourmaline.

Origins executives expect color to lighten and brighten next year from greens and purples to fruity pinks and corals, with emphasis on cultural themes.

Clinique's new colors for the fall have something for everybody...

Executives at Clinique conclude, "Fall 2006 is still being developed, but, as with all of our trends, we work months in advance. We derive inspiration for our seasonal ideas from a multitude of people, places and things. We also consult a number of sources on trend directions, including Premiere Vision held in Paris each season. When we deliver the fall '06 trend and shades, they will be modern and relevant to our consumers around the world."