THE HAIR STYLING market is ready for a change, as retro looks and an increase in men’s products aim to elevate flat sales. For the 52 weeks ended Feb. 20, 2005, hair spray sales decreased 3% to $362 million and gel/mousse sales were up by 2.7% ($564.6 million), according to Chicago-based Information Resources, Inc (IRI). These figures do not include Wal-Mart sales. However, hope springs eternal for marketers of styling products, as new styles for the spring and summer are sporting more layers, waves and curls than in the past, and new products are being introduced to enhance them.
According to a recent consumer survey conducted by Rohm and Haas, hair styling is an integral part of consumer’s appearance and they want to look well-styled, yet simple and natural.
“In the study results, we saw this finding emerge time and time again among men and women across the U.S., France, Germany and the UK,” said Gautam Deviah, market manager for Rohm and Haas’ hair styling products in North America. “In the past, consumers viewed hair stiffness and crunchy feel as an indication a product is working,” he said. “Today, two-thirds of consumers say they want a natural hold, look and feel.” The survey also indicated that styling ease was a key component in any hair styling product for all age groups.
The latest spring hair trend is the sexy, voluptuous volume-look for women who want to look stunning with a stylish-modern edge, according to L.A. Looks brand manager Norel Mancuso. “The new Blasted Volume Aero Power gel has an intense root booster, adding both body and volume. It has a strong hold and also offers gel flexibility, making it easy to manipulate styles. There is also the Sport Fanatic Aero Power gel for the athletic person on-the-go and Rock Hard Aero Power gel for the active individual.” Also available is Rock Hard Aero glue spray, Rock Hard liquid glue, Flex Appeal liquid rubber, Sport Maniac liquid sculpt, Molding gum, Slick brilliantine, and Sport Fiber paste.
According to Kathy Kafka, president of Cosmetologists Chicago and Midwest education/sales manager for Zotos International, trends are going to stay soft, movable and touchable for everyone from teens (male and female) to baby boomers. Men especially like the control or directional change—such as a cowlick—that they can achieve by getting a perm.
Explains Marina Azizova, manager of R&D for Zotos International, “Restylability and memory became a big trend in the last few years. Many of our styling products are made with Dynamix and other new age styling polymers to allow consumers to enjoy the benefits of the product all day long. Thermal damage protection has always been a strong need. Polyquaternium-37 and amodimethicone, as well as some other new polymers provide excellent conditioning and smoothing and help protect the hair from thermal damage caused by blow-dying and thermal styling tools. Microcrystalline wax is used to give definition, shine and separation without making hair look and feel oily.” The ISO Tamer sub line and Naturelle Slickline offer various styling products formulated for coarse or dry hair using state of the art polymers and conditioners to smooth curls, tame waves or help blow dry hair straight.
Goldwell’s Trend Zoom ‘05 are styling concepts that range from sensual to wild, and are expressed in three trends: Ethic Flow, Graphic Twist and Wild Deluxe. Developed by directors of hair Mario Krankl, Joe Lorenz and Cristof Prinz, Ethic Flow is inspired by natural materials, calm colors, soft surfaces and textures. Using Trendline Shine spray and Volume mousse, the combination of structured, layered hair at the back with a smooth asymmetrical front reflects the organic shape of a shell. Using Trendline Lagoom as a styler, Graphic Twist gets its look from geometric patterns and surfaces.
Wild Deluxe is inspired by opulent, luxurious and natural materials, such as furs and feathers. Extreme contrasts of long and short, straight and curly underline the shimmering diversity of feminine individuality. The look utilizes Trendline Shine wax, Volume Mousse Extreme and Trendline Finish spray.
What’s spring without a school formal? Sexy Hair Concepts offers some ideas for the prom from stylist Sheree McNease, who suggests inventing an individual style based on feminine ringlets, romantic fantasy, adventurous safari or classic chic. Recommended styles are the Torch Singer, using Silky Sexy Frizz Eliminator for smooth lines and sultry curves; the Diva, using Big Sexy Blow Dry gel; the Bella Donna, using Big Sexy Spray and Play for playful, beautiful, lady-like hair that lasts all night; and the Heartbreaker, an edgy and hard to forget style, using Short Sexy Hard Up gel.
Everything Old is New Again
It’s not unusual for stylists to turn to the past for inspiration. Beth Minardi, of the Minardi Salon, New York, explained, “There are a few ways to go this spring. Some are enjoying a retro type shag feeling with bangs and short layers on long hair. Others are going to the opposite extreme with much fuller, more horizontally shaped cuts, especially with waves and loose curl—think Veronica Lake circa 2005.”
Tracy Liguori Lubeley, marketing director of Scruples Professional Haircare, commented, “We are seeing a big return to romantic looks. For too long women have been caught up in the sleek, straight look, but the resurgence of full-bodied curls with movement is definitely the next thing to watch out for. We are seeing a lot of texture and volume that makes hair look healthy, vibrant and sexy.”
|Scruples offers Dual Design gel/wax.|
The Scruples Pearl Prescriptives range introduced Wet Wax, a versatile water-based medium hold spray wax that provides magnified texture, volume and shine. It’s non-sticky and can be used in wet or dry hair. In addition, there is Dual Design gel/wax, which, when used on wet hair, acts like a gel to give volume and control. On dry hair, it acts like a wax to provide separation and shine. It’s also formulated with a Protective Barrier Complex to give hair added protection against styling and environmental stress.
Redken’s Chris Baran, global artistic director, design, pointed out, “The spring looks for women reflect the 1960s softness and femininity, with a touch of urban drama. Redken’s latest collection, Intersection, is inspired by the chaos and layers of complexity of the New York City’s street vibe, and reflects its diverse cultures, attitudes and fashion.”
Sporting names such as Swerve, Detour, Speed and Gridlock, the styles rely on products such as Satinwear 02 ultimate blow-dry lotion, Spray Starch 15 heat memory styler, Rewind 06 pliable styling paste, Fabricate 03 heat active texturizer, Quick Dry 18 instant finishing spray and Align 12 ultra straight balm.
In the seasons ahead, Baran believes the 1980s are creeping their way back into the scene. “But have no fear, you won’t have to break out your Flock of Seagulls albums for hairstyling clues. Some of this season’s volume will calm down. Think retro, not vintage.”
|An American Crew model shows off one of the shorter styles for men.|
Smoking in the Boys Room
More and more personal products are being geared toward the male consumer, and styling products are no exception.
“Aging boomers and male consumers drive the trend for styling products for thinning hair. The Nutri-Ox and Bain de Terre Fine Solutions lines offer styling products in this category,” explained Marina Azizova of Zotos.
Experts at Rizzi Haircorp observe that messy/spiked looks for guys will be the in thing this spring. According to Norel Mancuso, L.A. Looks, styling trends for men seem to be headed in two directions. For the low-maintenance type of guy, the long-haired, wind-blown shag seems to be holding on strong.
“More and more guys seem to be warming up to this laid-back style of hair and we don’t see this trend quieting down any time soon. Secondly, we can also see that some guys are in the need of a more sophisticated-look, pushing them toward the classic, movie star hairstyles of the 1930s. The result is a mixture of Clark Gable and Humphrey Bogart’s flawlessly combed-back hair on the modern-trend setting male of the new millennium.”
The hairstyle becomes a decoration, added directors of hair Mario Krankl, Joe Lorenz and Cristof Prinz for Goldwell. “Untamed, androgynous, seductive-glam rock and dandy chic define a new masculine type who has the courage to display some intriguing feminine accents. The unconventional details, such as asymmetry and wild layers, accent uniqueness.” This year, American Crew introduced Analog, a sophisticated collection of hairstyles for men, focusing on natural textures, lean and masculine shape and hair that has a natural fall to gravity. According to Craig Hanson, American Crew’s creative director, short cuts are aggressive on one side, more square on the other, while longer lengths are also popular. One variation is for the hair to be longer on the sides and shorter in the front while the other shows long hair all around.
Executives from Austin, TX-based Joe Grooming insist that more structured styles are in for longer hair and updated mohawks or faux mohawks are in for shorter hair. According to Steve Duross, creative and education director for Joe Grooming, “History always repeats itself—the look of the 1980s is still hot and will provide inspiration for the next few seasons as we see more structure added to the overall looks. Color will continue to be the hottest way for guys to update their current looks.”
Joe Grooming is launching a variable hold spray that allows a little or a lot of hold. The spray also works as a final step in conjunction with other Joe Styling products such as the Joe Grooming compound, a styling paste that provides control, maximum texture, thickening and definition with minimal sheen. Other new products in the customized styling line can be mixed and matched to suit each individual user. These include Maximum Hold gel, which provides intense control and shine with reduced levels of polymers and no added alcohol; pomade, which permits shine and pliability, and rinses out easily; Grooming cream, which contains a mixture of soy protein, carrot extract, vitamin E, organic ginger and ginseng to build strength. It also provides UV protection and additional scalp protection; the Straightening pomade is designed for highly textured, coarse, curly or thick hair. The line is completed with Thickening shampoo, Sensitive shampoo and Daily conditioner.
|Aubrey Organics includes ginseng & biotin in its hair care formulas.|
Aubrey Organics will launch its redesigned and reformulated Men’s Stock Ginseng Biotin Hair Care line this month. Enhanced with He Shou Wu, ginseng (a traditional scalp stimulant and hair conditioner) and biotin, plus other hair-thickening B-vitamins, the line helps to nourish and stimulate the scalp to keep it clean and healthy, while repairing and adding fullness to thinning, fine hair. The products—Ginseng Hair gel, Hair Repair, Scalp tonic and Biotin shampoo—feature “Aubrey’s Preservative,” a natural cosmetic preservative consisting of citrus seed extract and vitamins A, C and E.
For styling, the Ginseng Biotin Hair gel controls and conditions hair without the plastics and silicones found in most styling gels. Biotin and panthenol (vitamin B5) condition the scalp and hair, and add thickness and shine to the hair. Almond protein and ginseng condition the hair. Herbal gums provide firm hold and manageability. Suggested retail price for the 6 fl.-oz. product is $9.95.
Revamps and Additions
Launching this month, Yves Rocher Pure Air Detangling spray and shampoo are the latest additions to the Phytum Hair Care range, designed to suit the needs of women with normal hair who want to undo the effects of styling product residue or external aggressions. According to company execs, many women address this issue by shampooing every day, which can leave hair fragile. Phytum Pure Air, enriched with oligopeptides (botanical soy proteins that aid cellular respiration, allowing for a healthier scalp), increases cellular oxygenation, so that hair feels cleaner, longer. Pure Air Detangling spray comes in a 5 fl.-oz. bottle, retailing at $10.
Aveda is adding to its Pure Abundance hair care line this month with new Volumizing hair spray for extra-firm, humidity-resistant hold and shine. The body booster features a micro-mist pump and a cocktail of organic and plant-derived ingredients, such as agacia gum, hydrolyzed wheat protein, pine derived resin and organic marshmallow root.
“Big hair is back—and the trends inspired by this year’s runways are all about the sexy, full-bodied styles of the 1980s,” remarked Amber Soletti, marketing manager for Aveda. “The micro-mist sprayer and volumizing formula work synergistically together to create lasting fullness and body in the most retro-and modern-way possible.”
L.A. Looks will re-launch its current 16-oz. styling gels in a new and bigger 20-oz. size. In addition, the 8-oz. Wet Looks gel will be re-launched in a 20-oz. package. Consumers will get the same product, for the same price, only in a larger size.
“The layered/inverted bob is really gaining in popularity,” said Robert Valdez, vice president of sales, Rizzi Haircorp “Also any style with big curls or wavy hair will be popular for women. Trends will continue toward messy, wavy looks; anything will go with regard to cuts. We expect more low-lights and multi-dimensional colors.”
For the new season, Rizzi Haircorp is revamping its styling line and introducing entirely new packaging. Systems will be new for straight, curly, dry and fine hair. The packaging will consist of neon color coordinated cones with silver accents. In the future, Rizzi plans to launch hair styling strips, similar to the Listerine breath strips.
PureOlogy introduced DryShine Styler, a new hybrid styling product with innovative ingredient technology to provide shine and control without greasiness. DryShine meets the demands of women who want a versatile product that can help them achieve multiple styles while protecting their hair color. The advanced formula contains nano emulsion technology and PureOlogy’s proprietary AntiFade complex of potent antioxidants and full spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreens to protect hair, prevent color oxidation and maximize color retention. It can be used for daily use on damp or dry hair and is designed for any hair length, style and texture.
Short vs. Long
Marketers don’t always agree on whether long hair or short is in vogue. Renee Patronik, consulting colorist for L’Oréal Paris explained, “When long hair has been popular for so long, it’s inevitable that short, sexy hair will make a return.”
However, Matthew Williams, artistic director of Modern Organic Products (MOP), insists long hair is in at the moment. “Hair reaches new lengths while maintaining movement with layers. Long fringe is prevalent as well,” he stated. MOP’s C-system Texture spray and C-system spray pomade have been well-received product launches for MOP, due to their versatility and easy application. Launching this month is Glisten Finish Flexible Hold spray.
Cody Kusakabe, master of cut and style at the Gavert Atelier salon in Beverly Hills, played the diplomat. “Hairstyles for this spring can be either long or short. Long hair in the springtime can be wavy and present a soft look, while short hair can make a bold statement, tending to be heavier on top and with less volume on the bottom.
Michael O’Rourke, founder and CEO of Sexy Hair Concepts, agreed. “Spring styles are sexy, romantic and textural. Regardless of length, freedom from flat ironing is the idea. Hair that flows, bends, and waves is a must. 24/7 Curls, our newest product addition just hitting the market, creates curl that stays in the hair until it’s washed out. Yet it does it without being sticky or hard.” Mr. O’Rourke predicted more texture in seasons to come as women want to have unlimited styling options and change their hair as often as they change their wardrobe.
Tame the Frizz, Keep the Curl
Nearly all marketers told Happi that while big curls are in, wild frizz still remains a styling faux pax.
“I think the trends will most certainly go to bigger, fuller, wavier hair,” stated Ms. Minardi. “There have been so many years of the flat sleek hair, that although it will never go out of fashion to have smooth, straight hair, many of our clients want to see more volumes of hair. I also see the concept of perming in a new way to give the hair an almost curl-less perm—all the body and wave without all the frizz.”
According to Ms. Kafka of Zotos, curls and texture are back this spring. “We see them everywhere: on the runway, in the print/trades and in our homes on TV. The influence is a soft, romantic look. We see the younger generation (ages 14-18) embracing the look of texture whether permanent or temporary. Bain de Terre Recovery Complex Anti-Frizz Collection supports all curly and wavy styles while controlling frizz and giving hair a natural, soft feel. The BDT Anti-Frizz line of products is very popular.”
Marina Azizova, Zotos, added, “The ISO Bouncy line extension employs a combination of proteins and polymers such as hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer and others to work in synergy with silicones, conditioners and humectants to help balance and maintain necessary moisture levels, keeping curls frizz-free and bouncy.”
Brand new from Zotos is the Amplifusion Volumizing System, formulated to provide anti-oxidant protection, replenish lost amino acids, increase the volume and thickness of the hair shaft and boost the structural integrity of the hair cuticle. The line includes an alcohol-free Volumizing Root Lifter and Styling Gel, designed to give maximum lift, long-lasting hold and shine, and energized texture. The Amplifusion line also includes normal and color-treated shampoo and conditioner. Suggested retail price for all units is $5.99.
Ouidad Climate Control Heat and Humidity gel ensures curls look their best, even in the worst summer weather. According to stylist and salon owner Ouidad, curls and waves are prone to frizz because of the shape of curly hair’s cuticle. With curly or wavy hair, the cuticle is raised, since hair strands do not lie flat. This means that nutrients in the hair shaft are more exposed and more easily depleted, which makes curly hair drier, frizzier and more reactive to the elements than other hair types. Climate Control gel protects curls from frizz-causing humidity by absorbing moisture in the air to hydrate each strand of delicate curls. Warmer temperatures and moist air work with the gel to activate the vitamins, plant extracts, and European wheat resin, leaving hair soft and shiny. The gel retails for $18. Other products for curl control include Curl Quencher Moisturizing gel, the PlayCurl Line and KRLY Kids.
|Thermasilk from Helene Curtis helps battle frizz and fly-aways.|
Helene Curtis’ ThermaSilk introduced three new products in March, specially formulated to smooth curly or wavy hair while heat styling. Straight & Smooth Leave-In cream’s lightweight, non-greasy formula provides long lasting straight style while controlling frizz and fly-aways. It promises to leaves hair shiny, resilient and manageable with a non-sticky formula that leaves hands residue-free. Formulated to provide smoothness when used on wet or dry hair, the versatile formula helps detangle for snag-free combing and acts as a styling cream, yet doesn’t leave hair looking greasy. Heat activated hair helpers kick in to counter the dehydrating effects of blow styling or ironing.
Luke O’Connor, owner of the LuKaRo Salon in Beverly Hills and consult ant/spokesperson for ThermaSilk hair care, stated, “Today’s more glamorous looks require heat to look their best, and that can be a challenge for curly or wavy hair, which tends to be drier and more fragile than straight hair. The Smoothing line is popular because it leaves the hair frizz free, smooth, and shiny. This is a sign of healthy happy hair, and this is what it’s all about this spring-curly, loose, wavy, or straight.” New ThermaSilk Smooth & Silky shampoo and conditioner and Straight & Smooth Leave-In cream for curly and wavy hair have a suggested retail price of $3.99.
New styles have lots of volume, soft waves and an undone or unstructured feel, according to a spokesperson for L’Oréal. This trend started last year and is continuing this spring. There is also an increased usage in heat styling appliances-flat irons, curling irons and blow driers to achieve these looks. Some of L’Oréal’s most popular recent launches include Studio Line Out of Bed for loose, unstructured styles; Studio Line Absolute Wet gel for wet-looking, but not greasy or hard, styles; and Studio Line Anti-Frizz gel for smoothing unwanted frizz. This incorporated new technologies such as cuticle smoothing and shine enhancing.
Keeping It Real
“Lately women and men have decided to embrace their hair’s natural body and texture by playing up their curls and waves-even Nicole Kidman is wearing her hair curly again,” stated Julie Lubell, marketing, Garnier Fructis Style. “We’re seeing curls, and tousled, full, wavy hair everywhere. It’s a big change from the pin-straight styles we’ve seen in previous years.”
This spring, Garnier Fructis Style introduced a new Surf Hair Texturizing spray that gives hair a natural, beachy, textured look with high definition and a matte-finish. Other products from the line are the Curl Construct mousse, Curl Shaping spray gel, Volume Inject mousse and Smoothing milk.
Ms. Lubell said the fun and carefree bohemian and surfer lifestyles will completely invade the fashion and beauty marketplace. “We’re also seeing more and more curls. Flat irons are being replaced with diffusers, hot rollers, and curling irons. Garnier is launching two new Curl Styling SKUs: Soft Curl cream that helps create soft, shapely waves and curls without frizz, fly-aways, or flaky residue and Hard Curl gel that helps create defined, crunchy curls with a lasting hold.
Through the exclusive Bonding System, new anti-frizz technology, and fortifying sugars, Align 12 from Redken delivers lasting humidity resistance, ultimate frizz control and strength to even the most rebellious hair types. Bonding System transports styling resins without diluting the potency or overloading the formula. The anti-frizz technology conditions the hair by attaching cationic conditioning polymers to the negatively charged surface of the hair. The anionic polymer then binds to the first layer, locking in conditioning agents while locking out humidity. Fortifying xylose and glucose sugars are heat style protectors; conditioning silicones smooth the hair and provide a natural, shiny finish.
Mr. Kusakabe said one of the most popular styling products is the curl enhancing balm, used to achieve wavy soft looks with body. With damage caused by straightening and color treatments, some hair needs a strengthening conditioning treatment. The curl enhancing balm builds the fiber in the hair shaft, causing hair to become stronger.
|Suave’s Volumizing gel locks in curls.|
According to Suave celebrity hair pro, Harry Josh, big hair is one of the key trends this spring, from full, loose curls to updated and effortless looking waves. To lock in volume and staying power, Suave added the new Professionals Volumizing gel to their Professionals line of value-priced products from Unilever. The product debuted in March. According to Mr. Josh, one of the biggest trends in hair is the concept of working with the natural texture to enhance individual beauty, such as bringing out curls, and moving away from flat irons and the super straight look, if that’s not the natural makeup of hair.
|Fioravanti silkening duo from Rene Furterer helps reduce the need for heat styling tools.|
Rene Furterer’s most popular styling aides this year are the new Fioravanti Silkening shampoo and conditioner. The duo works together to smooth down the hair shaft, and reduce frizz for the perfect blow-dry. According to company executives, most women pile on styling products or plug in the flat iron to smooth their rebellious strands. With the new Fioravanti Silkening Duo, women can skip the styling crèmes and heat damage, flaunting perfectly smooth and silky hair after simply blow-drying.What’s Next?
L.A. Looks’ Norel Mancuso explains that during the upcoming spring and summer seasons we can expect to see an increase in ultra laid-back wavy or curly hairstyles among women. Daytime laid-back hairstyles will transform into sultry, pumped-up curls. Curl-enhancing products and curling irons will be a must-have this summer to facilitate these styles and will have the potential to stick around for seasons to come.