Hope (and Results) In a Jar

December 9, 2005

When it comes to skin care, marketers realize the importance of delivering on their promises.

Although there is still no miracle potion to turn back the hands of time, consumers continue to search for the best ways to achieve healthy, youthful looking skin, and they are willing to pay for it. According to Chicago-based Information Resources, Inc., mass market skin care sales rose 5% to $1.6 billion for the year ended Feb. 20, 2005. The biggest growth area was in the anti-aging category, where consumers spent $370 million on facial products, an increase of 20% more than the previous year’s sales. Procter & Gamble’s Olay Regenerist Facial Anti-Aging was ranked No. 1, with sales totaling $60.7 million, a 64% increase over last year. Olay Total Effects Facial Anti-aging came in second, bringing in nearly $53 million, a 17% increase from the previous year. Olay was also the leader in facial cleansers, with sales from Olay Daily Facial cleansers topping $43 million. Olay Facial moisturizers also ranked No. 1 in the category with at $43 million in sales. These figures don’t include Wal-Mart sales.

In the prestige channel, total skin care sales reached $2.1 billion in 2004, up 6% from the previous year, according to NPD Beauty, a division of The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based marketing information company.

Consumers now realize the importance of keeping skin healthy, not just trying to get rid of wrinkles, experts told Happi. A skin care regimen of daily cleansing, moisturizing and protection against environmental factors work together to prevent the signs of aging, as opposed to trying to reverse it once the damage is done.

“Consumers are looking for real results,” commented global trend tracker Marguerite La Corte, who travels around the world to report on the latest international trends in beauty. “They are more demanding than ever before and the product must not just offer a benefit story but also perform with visible results.”

A Clean Slate
A clean face is the first step toward healthy skin. Sales of facial cleansers reached $526 million for the year ended Feb. 20, 2005. Hoping to hold on to its No. 1 spot in the cleansing category, Olay introduced Daily Facials Clarity, a line of cleansing products that help skin adapt to the effects of fluctuations in hormones and stress by fighting blemishes. The products contain aloe vera, green tea, sage and salicylic acid, which is known to provide exfoliating benefits to remove dead skin cells. The line comprises three products: Daily Facials Clarity foaming cleanser, Daily Facials Clarity Daily scrub and Daily Facials Clarity Pore Purifying toner.

Last summer, Noxzema also introduced a cleansing product to prevent blemishes. Continuous Clean products are designed to clean deep down to the pores and reveal clear, glowing skin. The oil-free products utilize “tingly citrus” formulas to help improve the complexion.

“We all want clear, glowing skin, but sometimes women need a little extra help to keep their facial skin in top form,” said Amy Spera, Noxzema brand manager. “Noxzema Continuous Clean is designed to provide women with an invigorating skin care experience that will help reveal beautifully clear skin day after day.”

The line contains a microbead cleanser, a deep foaming cleanser and a clarifying toner.

Dove’s Daily Exfoliating cleanser is mild enough for daily use.

Combining a cleanser and an exfoliator, Dove introduced Essential Nutrient Daily Exfoliating cleanser, which is mild enough for everyday use to keep skin healthy and glowing. Developed around microbead technology, it gently polishes away dull, lifeless skin with every use, according to Unilever.

The Power of Protection
Exposure to harmful UV rays and environmental pollutants can cause premature aging, so marketers are offering products to protect the skin from environmental damage year-round while also providing moisturizing benefits.

Dual Nature SPF 15 from Aveda protects the skin.

In March, Aveda made the battle a little easier with the introduction of Dual Nature Face Protection SPF 15, a daily facial sunscreen formulated with mineral-derived sunscreens and plant-based anti- oxidants that protect against incidental UVA/UVB exposure and environmental free radicals such as smoke and pollution. It can be worn alone, over moisturizer or under makeup. Sunflower seed extract helps neutralize free radicals and reinforce the protective mechanisms of the skin, while rosemary, thyme, sage and oryzanol combat free radicals that can cause long-term skin damage.

Avon launched Anew Retroactive + Day Defense SPF 15, which strengthens skin’s resistance against early signs of aging by 42%, according to the company. It contains a technology that strengthens the skin’s defense against the environment, pollutants and stress. It also protects against visible signs of aging with broad-spectrum SPF 15 protection. The oil-free, AHA-free lotion contains deep-sea marine extracts and a quad antioxidant blend, which includes rice bran, citrus flavonoids and rosemary. According to Avon executives, after one week, 90% of women said their skin felt stronger and 87% showed improvement in skin clarity.

Another sure sign of healthy skin is a glowing complexion. Avon Solutions Visual Perfection Tint Releasing Moisturizer SPF 20 UVA/UVB is a moisturizer that protects skin from sun damage and features an exclusive tint-releasing technology to illuminate skin. When it is applied, the energy of rubbing the cream into the skin, along with the user’s specific skin chemistry, allows the tint particles to blend and adapt to the skin tone.

Last October, Olay launched Complete Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Lotion, which provides skin with an extra boost, enhancing its natural radiance. It contains vitamins B3, E and pro-vitamin B5 to hydrate and even out the skin’s tone while natural light enhancers illuminate the skin. Broad-spectrum SPF 15 prevents any future damage that could compromise skin’s radiance.

“Olay Complete Multi-Radiance immediately gives up to 70 percent more visibly radiant skin,” commented Wendy Brakett, Olay senior scientist. “The innovative formula provides all the essentials that skin needs most to be noticeably radiant. It improves skin tone and delivers immediate light-reflecting properties to enhance skin’s natural glow.”

L’Oréal Paris found a way to combine multiple benefits in one product. Wrinkle De-Crease SPF 15 lotion, launched in January, is a multi-tasking product designed to help women protect their skin from sun exposure, help prevent future signs of sun damage and premature skin aging while taking advantage of the Wrinkle De-Crease formula.

“Using a daily moisturizer that’s infused with an SPF of at least 15 gives women the power to aggressively enhance their anti-aging regimen without adding a step,” said Dr. Lydia Evans, consulting dermatologist for L’Oréal Paris.

The lotion contains Bosewelox, a botanical ingredient from India that combines boswella extract and manganese to help smooth expression line and wrinkles that form around the eyes, forehead and mouth.

Bye, Bye Botox?
Aging baby boomers aren’t the only ones who want to hold on to their youth, experts told Happi. Even women in their early 20s are looking for ways to keep those wrinkles at bay, and as technology continues to advance, a trip to the drug store—not the doctor’s office—might be the cure.

“As a global trend tracker, I see cosmeceuticals growing to new heights as breakthrough technology offers product results with use over a short period of time,” commented Ms. La Corte. “Outside of the U.S. where cosmetic surgery is somewhat frowned upon, products that offer an alternative to surgery will indeed continue to grow.”

Claiming to be a natural, safe alternative to Botox, Comfort Zone’s Glorious Skin Instant Toner contains hexapeptides that penetrate the skin’s surface while targeting the same nerves that Botox freezes when it is injected into facial muscles. But unlike Botox, the nerves are simply relaxed, not completely paralyzed from the muscle tissue, temporarily inhibiting facial muscle contractions and often increasing the production of collagen and elastin. In clinical studies, participants noticed a 37% increase in skin elasticity just 15 minutes after application. A 40% increase was evident after 30 days of continued use, according to the company.

Avon’s Anew Clinical Deep Crease concentrate relaxes and fills fine lines and wrinkles.

Avon’s Anew Clinical Deep Crease Concentrate with Bo-Hylurox incorporates two major concepts of popular injectables—relaxing and filling for optimal wrinkle-fighting results. The topically applied concentrated serum contains portulaca, a custom-plant extract known to address the line-creating effects of facial contractions and argireline, a peptide derived from amino acids that reportedly has a relaxing effect on the skin. A multi-action complex boosts hyaluronic acid, a gel-like substance that is bio-generated and gives skin its fullness.

L’Oréal has found a way to intensify the anti-aging regimen in a soothing and relaxing treatment with the introduction of Revitalift Intense Firm Treatment Mask. The cloth mask delivers an anti-wrinkle and firming treatment targeted toward increasing the skin’s firmness and resiliency in a weekly 10-minute application. The mask is saturated with an ultra-concentrated formulation of nanosomes of Pro-Retinol A and Par-Elastyl. One mask contains the equivalent of almost half a jar of facial care and seven times the daily dosage of anti-wrinkle moisturizer, according to the company.

“There’s more than one way to approach anti-aging,” pointed out Dr. Evans. “Revitalift mask provides a unique method that’s both highly effective and also a pleasurable experience. Taking 10 minutes once a week to relax and take care of yourself can go a long way in improving the condition and appearance of skin.”

In addition to line extensions of already existing brands, new skin care lines continue to launch. Environ C-Quence, a new cosmeceutical line from South Africa, enriches skin with a combination of polypeptides, antioxidants, vitamins, ceramide and green tea. It is available in four strengths with progressively stronger concentrations of vitamins A and C and users are recommended to follow the path from the mildest to the strongest. The products assist in enriching and protecting the skin, refining skin surface, thickening the upper layer of the skin and normalizing cells to firm and smooth fine lines and wrinkles. But, according to Carol and Rob Trow, DermaCare USA, Mashpee, MA, these products do not replace the need for cosmetic procedures.

“These products do enhance the results of cosmetic procedures by preparing the skin properly, speeding up healing and maintaining results longer,” commented the Trows. “There are several areas such as perioral wrinkles that Environ can address, which complements and enhances cosmetic procedures. Our main philosophy is to prevent and repair skin damage and maintain healthy, beautiful skin for a lifetime.”

The line is available through plastic surgeons, dermatologists, physicians and medical spas.

Bloomsburg, PA-based Dromaius Novae’ offers a natural approach to anti-aging with its line of products containing emu oil, an anti-inflammatory tissue nutrient that feeds the skin. According to the company, the line of products feeds the skin, as opposed to harming it.

“Our skin care products are much better and safer to use than products such as Botox injections, plastic surgery, laser skin burning or harsh chemical peels,” commented Joanne Long, vice president of Dromaius Novae’. “As we age, our body functions decrease, especially the ability of our body to keep our skin moisturized and produce collagen. When this happens, wrinkles appear, skin becomes dry and it loses its elasticity. A daily regime of emu oil-based products can help delay aging effects.”

Men Need Care, Too
The demand for skin care products for men is on the rise, and marketers are launching new products and line extensions to keep pace. According to Ms. La Corte, European men have been raised on skin care as children so it was natural for them to find their own skin care brand when they became adults.

“American men are catching up quickly to Europeans,” pointed out Ms. La Corte. “Twenty years ago men in the U.S. didn’t even purchase their own fragrance. Now they are booking spa appointments and treatments, and that automatically lends to the open-mindedness to take care of their bodies and their wellness overall from head to toe.”

This past year, Nivea added more products to its increasingly popular Nivea for Men collection. Oil Control Face wash, which is specially formulated for oily skin, is a 100% soap-free foaming gel enriched with marine plant extracts and vitamins to remove dirt and excess oil that can lead to clogged pores.

Also new to the line is Revitalizing Eye creme Q10, the perfect antidote for tired, stressed eyes, according to company executives. The creme contains coenzyme Q10, a natural component of the skin. It reduces dark circles, under-eye puffiness and also fine lines.

Launching this month, Shine-Free Gel is the newest addition to the Clarins Men line. The oil-free daily moisturizer helps minimize and control shine while preventing the formation of blemishes. It also works to sooth razor burn and provides a protective barrier that shields skin from harmful pollutants. It utilizes concentrated botanicals to deliver healing properties to the skin without clogging pores.

Launching this month, Men’s Stock from Aubrey Organics is a 100% natural line of skin care products targeted toward men.

Men’s Stock from Tampa, FL-based Aubrey Organics, is 100% natural and free of petrochemicals. The three products work together to address the specific needs of men, including oil control, acne and blackhead prevention and irritation caused by frequent shaving. The line comprises Cleansing bar, Daily moisturizer and Daily Rejuvenating Eye cream. Men’s Stock products will be available in June.

Giving Them What They Want
As women—and men—become increas- ingly concerned with the health of their skin, not just the appearance, the demand for preventative products will continue to grow, creating new opportunities in the anti-aging segment of skin care for marketers. And as technology continues to advance at such a rapid pace, consumers will demand results-driven products to meet their specific needs, experts told Happi.

“A generation of skin care products had a life cycle of 10 years, now it is down to three years with the advent of scientific advances being made at a rapid pace,” commented Carol and Rob Trow of DermaCare USA. “Companies and skin care professionals need to keep up. Less emphasis will be on just luxury—[consumers] want meaningful results and are willing to pay a premium for services and products that work.”

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