Forever Young

May 16, 2006

Skin care continues to target aging consumers with youthful desires and money to spend.

The quest for youthful looking skin has moved beyond Botox and facelifts into the swiftly growing world of cosmeceutical treatments—everything from anti-wrinkle creams and home facial peel kits to lip-plumping lipstick.

Packaged Facts, a division of MarketResearch.com, projects that the cosmeceuticals market, made up of skin care, makeup and hair care products, will surpass $17 billion by 2010, with growth for the entire period between 2005-2010 showing a total gain of 29.4% or $3.9 billion. At $7 billion in 2005, skin care is clearly the power category as anti-aging creams, micro-dermabrasion home kits and wrinkle remedies—often “doctor endorsed”—have exploded onto the retail scene, thanks to heavy in-store promotion and advertising.

As a result, the cosmeceuticals retail marketplace becomes fragmented, as products are sold on the internet, as well as in an expanding range of upscale department stores and specialty stores, spas with retail counters, traditional department stores and mass channels such as mainstream supermarkets, chain drugstores and mass merchandisers.

According to Yvette Franco, vice president of brand development for Mary Kay Inc., today’s customers are looking for innovative, benefit-driven skin care. They want quality, efficacious products that deliver on claims.

“Customers experience ‘choice fatigue’ due to the overwhelming number of cosmetic products in the marketplace and are looking for guidance in their personal product selection,” she said.

And while cosmeceuticals boom, Chicago-based Euromonitor International reports that facial care products in general had sales well over $6 billion in 2005, with a prediction of almost $10 billion in sales by 2010. Most products, including moisturizers, cleansers, face masks and lip moisturizers enjoyed strong growth in 2005, with the exception of toners, which dropped to $346.7 million in 2005, from nearly $382 million in 2000.

Sales of general purpose body care products were also on the rise, raking in more than $1.7 billion in 2005, up from $1.4 billion in 2000.

Time in a Bottle

There’s no denying it, as the U.S. population continues to age, it continues to fight the concept of actually looking old. According to Euromonitor International, nourisher/anti-aging facial care products brought in almost $2.3 billion in sales last year, double the sales of $1.1 billion in 2000. The array of products available seems overwhelming, yet the market is hardly likely to be saturated, as Euromonitor predicts sales of ant-aging facial products to hit almost $5 billion by 2010.

Estée Lauder continues to release a variety of skin care products, most with an anti-aging promise. Latest in the Perfectionist range is the Power Correcting Patch for Deeper Lines and Wrinkles, a targeted treatment that, according to Estée Lauder,  reduces the look of wrinkles faster than topical creams.

Darphin’s Wrinkle Corrective Serum is the latest in their Predermine collection.
“We know that women are particularly concerned about the appearance of skin around the eyes,” explained Dr. Daniel Maes, global vice president of research and development at Estée Lauder, “so we have been striving to come up with a product that would create a significant smoothing effect.” Results can be seen in 20 minutes, and can be used as a pick-me-up or long term.

Each Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch is flexible enough to adapt and contour to the user’s facial shape. Within the patch is a conductive gel containing an exclusive formula that includes a powerful bio-peptide. The patch emits a small micro-current of energy, helping a continuous release of patented “biological water” from the patch to the skin. The energy of the patch is so mild that it causes no irritation, according to the company.

Estée Lauder also launched the DayWear Plus Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant lotion SPF 30 offering potent antioxidants, such as white and red tea, intensive hydrators and an SPF UVA/UVB sunscreen. It retails for $38.

The Resilience Lift Extreme skin care regimen from Estée Lauder directly targets visible effects of aging, helping skin fight back by accelerating its own recovery, all the while restoring radiance and providing more lift, explained Dr. Maes.

“Thanks to new findings from our lab on how skin is impacted during mid life and particularly menopause, we have been able to develop new technologies that provide skin with faster and better lifting and firming benefits than ever before,” he explained.

Resilience Lift Extreme is dermatologist- and ophthalmologist-tested and non-acnegenic. The line combats visible diminishing skin suppleness and sagging with a patented complex called ExtremeLift3 containing triterpenes. Extracted from the bark of the Mexican tepescohuite tree, triterpenes have been shown to be 20 times more potent than vitamin C, which is known to help increase the skin’s natural collagen production and encourage anti-collagenase activity.

Products in the Resilience Lift Extreme Ultra Firming lineup include  SPF15 Dry and Very Dry crème, SPF15 lotion, OverNight crème and eye crème. They range in price from $49.50-$85.

Estée Lauder launched Re-Nutriv back in 1958, and the line continues to evolve with the new Re-Nutriv Re-Creation Day crème SPF15 and Re-Creation Night crème. Both contain calcium, a mineral that facilitates the skin’s natural repair mechanisms and helps the skin maintain its youthful appearance, as well as padina, a sea plant which grows its own calcified shell and helps the calcium in skin do its job, according to Estée Lauder. Re-Nutriv also contains a blend of 74 trace minerals and antioxidants such as zinc and selenium. The day and night set retails for $900.

Also new in the Re-Nutriv line is the Ultimate Lifting Serum featuring patent-pending technology called OGG1 which targets oxidative damage to skin resulting from exposure to UVA and ozone. Other ingredients include astragalus root, RNA fragments, Cat’s Claw from Peru, sweet almond seed extract, ursolic acid, chaga mushroom and ligustrum seed. Suggested retail price is $200.

Expanding Favorite Lines

Alchimie Forever, Washington, DC, expanded its 13-sku skin care line with two new products: Superpulse rejuvenating eye balm and Excimer purifying facial cleanser.

Superpulse rejuvenating eye balm was conceived specifically to heal and protect the delicate eye contour area. Jojoba seed oil and cocoa butter add a boost of much-needed moisture, increasing firmness and elasticity. Vascular constrictors contained in blueberries are combined with vitamin K derived from natural alfalfa to reduce the appearance of dark under-eye circles, while the antioxidants contained in grape seed extracts alleviate the appearance of skin aging.

Excimer purifying facial cleanser uses natural extracts of papaya to gently exfoliate and leave the skin smooth and radiant, while cucumber soothes the skin and grapefruit rejuvenates. The light, soothing formula helps preserve skin’s natural pH balance, leaving skin cleaner and softer.

Alchimie Forever products were developed by cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Luigi Polla and his wife, Dr. Barbara Polla, a leader in biomedical research on cellular aging and anti-aging technologies.

“The idea behind the line,” explained Dr. Luigi Polla, “was to enable patients with all skin types to benefit from naturally derived medical-grade skin care without side effects.”

Mary Kay Inc. launched the TimeWise microdermabrasion set as an addition to the customized TimeWise Miracle set, age-fighting  formulas personalized for specific skin types. The microdermabrasion set eliminates dead skin cells, revealing smoother skin instantly, therefore enhancing the efficacy of the Miracle Set products by allowing the ingredients to further penetrate the skin.

Along with professional grade exfoliating crystals, the set contains rich emollients, a triple tea complex that acts as an anti-irritant and anti-oxidant, vitamin C and E derivatives and other ingredients that are specifically designed to fight fine lines, refine pores and smooth skin. The TimeWise microdermabrasion set  cost $55 and can be used two to three times a week.

According to Rhonda Shasteen, senior vice president of marketing, the TimeWise microdermabrasion set uses the same ingredients dermatologists, but offer dramatic results in the comfort of home. “It is perfect for women looking for convenience and affordability,” she said.

Consumers are becoming much more savvy about ingredients and anti-aging technologies, commented Francine Porter, president and chief executive officer of Osmotics Corporation, Denver, CO. They want efficacious products that solve specific problems. That’s why Osmotics Cosmeceuticals introduced Eye Surgery Under Eye Rejuvenator, which is designed to visibly reduce dark under eye circles, help eliminate puffy under eye bags and firm and smooth “crepey” lids. The rejuvenator combines three Tetra-Peptide technologies along with key anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients to improve the appearance of this problem area. One-half ounce retails for $65.

Osmotics’ Blue Copper 5 Face Lifting serum is a lightweight, concentrated formula that combines the anti-aging benefits of copper peptide with the advanced topical lifting technology: a penta-peptide (five chain) molecule that maximizes the absorption and effectiveness of copper. Patented bi-polymer of sweet almond proteins provide instant smoothing, toning and lifting, while shiitake mushroom extracts help prevent and repair thinning and sagging skin. One ounce retails for $75.

Darphin, New York, NY, introduced Predermine Wrinkle Corrective Serum, the most recent addition to the range of Predermine age-defying formulas. The serum was formulated with hydrating Micropatch technology, oligopeptides, collagen and phytofix, which stimulates natural collagen production and significantly improves skin’s barrier strength. Predermine Wrinkle Corrective Serum helps keep skin hydrated, smooth and resilient and retails for $195.

Procter &Gamble’s Olay offers at-home professional anti-aging solutions with the new Olay Regenerist Thermal Skin Polisher, a self-heating, exfoliating mini-peel treatment, and Regenerist Daily Regenerating Cleanser.

Olay Regenerist Thermal Skin Polisher has a heat-radiating formula that regenerates skin’s appearance with a combination of emollients and micro-crystals for professional-looking results. Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Cleanser’s creamy formula combines multiple exfoliators, including salicylic acid and oxygenated derma-beads, to sweep away  makeup and dirt. Suggested retail price for the 128ml polisher is $13.49 and $8.99 for the 150ml cleanser.

Addressing Special Needs

While it would appear that anti-aging seems to be the number one worry for skin care consumers, there are also a variety of other dermatological concerns, and the products to address them are becoming more specific.

According to data collected by Eucerin, more than 16 million women in the U.S. live with facial redness that often appears on the nose, cheeks and chin, and can take various forms ranging from a slight flush to more noticeable red blotches on the face. The Eucerin Redness Relief Kit includes Soothing cleanser, Daily Perfecting lotion SPF 15, Tone Perfecting créme and Soothing Night créme. All Redness Relief products are specially formulated with licochalcone, a skin soothing extract of the licorice root, are gentle on sensitive skin and Rosacea, and are fragrance- and oil-free, non-irritating and non-comedogenic. The products are formulated with green color neutralizers to instantly counteract visible redness on the skin for an even-toned complexion. The products can be bought separately, while the collective Redness Relief Regimen Trial Kit retails for $14.99.

Estée Lauder’s Re-Nutriv line was launched in 1958. The latest day and night skin cream set has a $900 price tag.
Lindi Skin, Ardmore, PA, developed “onocosmetic” products for cancer patients suffering from skin conditions such as sores, open wounds, burns, extremely dry and flaky skin and a loss of skin elasticity as a result of chemotherapy and radiation therapy.

Lindi Skin combines the latest medical information with innovative skin care ingredients to deliver one-of-a-kind products aimed at infusing some control back into patients’ lives.

Lindi Skin is a collection of soothing balms, body washes and lotions, face serums, eye hydrators, lip balms and skin coolers created to help improve patients’ quality of life—both physically and emotionally. Prices range from $8 to $38.

“These products are great for any skin type, but are specifically designed to help those in cancer treatment,” explained Lindi Snider, chief executive officer, Lindi Skin. “Patients are in treatment because they believe they will survive. They want to live as normally as possible. We help them do that and give them tools they need to fight back.”

The Lindi Skin products use ingredients such as bisabolol (chamomile extract) as an anti-irritant, curcurmin (turmeric extract) for wound healing, grape seed as an antioxidant, portulaca as an anti-inflammatory analgesic, as well as red raspberry seed, white tea, willow herb and white birch extract.

Olay’s Total Effects cleanser tackles both wrinkles and adult blemishes.
Olay from Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH, asserts that 44% of adult women are still coping with pimples. While many are concerned about fighting the signs of aging, a significant number of women continue to deal with the added aggravation of treating breakouts as well. To battle these problems, Olay launched Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish moisturizer containing vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5 and pro-vitamin B3. The moisturizer also contains salicylic acid, an effective blemish care ingredient, which helps to break the bonds between dead skin cells on skin’s surface to promote the natural cell loss process. It also penetrates into the upper part of pores and removes the dead skin cells and sebum that cause blockages that can lead to blemishes. The line also includes Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish cleanser, which contains salicylic acid and microbeads to gently exfoliate the surface of the skin.

Boys Are Saving Face

It’s been well established that men are now just as interested in maintaining  a youthful glow as women, and the market is following suit.

“The stereotype of [skin care] being a ‘women only’ market is passé, as increasingly men, twenty-somethings, and teens, are fearing age and turning towards cosmeceuticals to retain their youth,” noted Don Montuori, publisher of Packaged Facts. “While aging baby boomers are still the best target, marketers would be wise not to overlook the broader reaching consumer base.”

And they’re not. Lab Series Skincare For Men introduced three new products to moisturize, soothe and refresh:  Instant Moisture gel, Instant Moisture eye gel and Instant Moisture lip balm.

“We’ve developed three new daily products for the face, delicate eye area and lips—the target spots, that when not cared for, can change our entire appearance,” stated Matt Teri, vice president, corporate product innovation, The Estée Lauder Cos. Instant Moisture gel retails for $26, the roll-one eye gel retails for $27 and the lip balm retails for $10.

Menscience Androceuticals’ Microfine face scrub helps buff away damaged and dull skin cells while smoothing and revitalizing the skin.

According to Dr. Joely Kaufman, board certified dermatologist and head of cosmeceutical research at the University of Miami, the majority of people who sunburn are male, and men consist of 30% of indoor tanning customers, resulting in negative stress on the skin. Microfine Face Scrub helps improve the appearance of skin and prepares it for winter with gentle exfoliation. Glycolic acid in a 5% concentration and salicylic acid help loosen dead skin cells and buildup that get buffed away by three types of micro-buffers for a reduction in the appearance of fine lines, dry patches, and dark spots.

According to Nivea for Men, most men are not familiar with their own individual skin type, let alone know the right product formulations for their unique needs.

“In fact, our research indicates that 31% of men say taking care of their skin seems like a complicated process and 32% of men say they don’t know which skin care product to use,” explains Joe Venezia, marketing manager, Nivea for Men.

That’s why they’ve introduced the Skin Analyzer, a pocket-sized pamphlet that educates and assists the male consumer in a way that is both innovative and useful. Within the pages of this mini “how to” guide, men will find four step-by-step instructions for soothing and improving their skin. The Skin Analyzer contains a skin tester, a tear out that, when held to the cheek for 10 seconds, reveals whether skin is normal, normal to dry or normal to oily. The analyzer also recommends products for sensitive skin.

Battling Cellulite: Can We Do It?

Is cellulite really inevitable? Consumers increasingly think so, as they spent nearly $94 million on firming/anti-cellulite body care in 2005, up from just $30 million in 2000, according to Euromonitor. Executives at Cellex-C think so too, reporting that, due to various hormones (including estrogen) and the natural aging process, the dreaded “orange peel” dimples are bound to form along the buttocks and thighs sooner or later.

That’s why they’ve introduced Cellulite Smoothing Complex, specially formulated to tighten, firm and smooth the skin above the fatty cellulite deposits. The water lily-green botanical gel with the refreshing scent of peppermint and eucalyptus, is infused with cellulite-combating natural extracts such as West African kigelia fruit and olive leaf extract.

CelluliteRx, a division of Institut’ Dermed, uses a patented time-released liposome delivery system, called QuSome, for increased penetration of the skin into targeted cellulite zones in the subcutaneous fat layers of the skin. The products work at a cellular level, addressing the multiple causes of cellulite. The three-step system addresses hormones, increases circulation, reduces inflammation and stimulates fat metabolism to impart a firmer, more youthful appearance to the skin.

CelluliteRx uses USP natural progesterone to counter the weight-gaining and collagen-destroying effects of unopposed estrogen. The system includes LipoSmooth body polish, LipoTherm contour cream and LipoLift firming cream. Other ingredients include niacin to increase circulation, essential fatty acids to reduce inflammation, gurana seed extract and caffeine to stimulate fat burning and glycolic acid to accelerate skin renewal. The system retails for $150.

Spa Treatments at Home

When they can afford it, both women and men like to get the royal treatment, and when a spa is out of the question, consumers will gladly treat themselves at home.

Waterloo, IA-based D’vine is a complete line of wine-based skin and body care for men and women. Developed for sensitive skin and easy customization, D’vine vinotherapie products “were created to fill a void in the skin care industry,” said creator, Dr. Richard Mauer.

The vinotherapie line contains fewer chemical preservatives than traditional skin care products, includes higher percentages of botanical ingredients to fight free radicals, promotes elasticity, stimulates collagen production and improves the skin’s integrity while nourishing and calming, according to the company. Many of the products effectively and gently treat conditions such as acne and Rosacea. Packed with wine phytolalexins, resveratrol, grape seed extract, wine extract and L-tartaric acid, D’vine provides the body with some nutrients, such as vitamin C and bioflavonoids, it cannot produce on its own and helps block UVB radiation.              

“Vinotherapie products are making a strong surge in the skin care industry,” said product developer Laura Root. “D’vine is able to stand apart because of its extensive product line and powerful antioxidizing, detoxifying and nourishing benefits.”

Spas are ideal if you have disposable income and time, but what if the real world is making too many demands?

Hello Beautiful Professional Peel System gives users a spa treatment at home.
Susie Galvez, president of Hello Beautiful Skincare, explains, “Customers love spa treatments, but cannot usually schedule the time. Hello Beautiful skin care allows the customer to experience a professional spa treatment at home on their time frame. So if you can pencil in just five minutes a week, you can have a spa experience and professional results.”

Hello Beautiful Professional Peel System reduces fine lines and wrinkles after only 14 applications. Developed in partnership with D’Arcy Labs, the key ingredient in the four-step system is hydromarine, a patent-pending complex of micronized seaweed, bladderwrack, kelp, marine collagen, blue algae, sea buckthorn and Abyssine 657. Fourteen applications sell for $125.

According to Origins, New York, NY, the Shedonism line of bath and body beauties are designed to “celebrate and indulge your womanly desires.” The new line of luxurious treatments is inspired by the Tahitian Gardenia. The 8oz. butter cream retails for $32.50, while the shaving mousse and bath syrup retail for $25.

Added Susan Akkad, vice president of global marketing, Origins, “Our mission was to enable every woman to celebrate her sexiness through an opulent product line that is designed to be lavished in, not skimped on.”

And in the end that’s what the skin care market is all about, pampering the consumer and buying youth. According to Osmotics’ Francine Porter, the continued growth in anti-aging cosmeceuticals will be based on scientific technologies. Products that provide multiple benefits, such as a moisturizer/sunscreen in one formulation, will continue to be popular, as will home versions of skin care procedures typically done by estheticians or dermatologists.

Susan Lewis, director, medical sales and marketing, Eucerin, insists that the trend of offering home-based dermatologic solutions to skin problems, such as anti-aging or other more “medical” skin problems, will continue.