Hair's the Thing!
Sales achieve modest growth while consumers request more specialized formulas targeted to their hair type.
For those who follow hair care sales, it’s like watching paint dry, or maybe hair grow. According to Euromonitor International, the category only grew 2% in 2005. Although not a significant percentage, any growth period is notable for a category as large and mature as hair care. Last year’s gains pushed total hair care category sales to nearly $10 billion. While sales of every hair care subsegment grew in 2005, shampoo, conditioner and styling agents are slated to be the top performing categories in terms of growth, according to Euromonitor, largely from performances from brands that compete within these product arenas.
Sales of all five of the leading mass hair care brands––Dove, Pantene, Garnier Fructis, Suave and Herbal Essences––all rose due to new product introductions. Procter and Gamble’s Pantene Pro-V brand launched its Ice Shine collection this year, which aims to give consumers twice the shine in just one use. The science behind Ice Shine shampoo’s clear formula is that it gently cleans to remove dirt, oil, sebum and styling products, increasing the purity of the hair’s surface, thus better allowing light to penetrate the clear cuticle to the inner cortex of each strand.
Ice Shine conditioner contains high levels of silicones to smooth the hair’s surface—almost polishing it, and helps create the appearance of uniform strands, so hair fibers more effectively lie next to each other and create a smooth, glossy surface.
P&G’s Head and Shoulders introduced its Intensive Solutions antidandruff shampoo, which is available in four targeted formulas. Each is designed to treat itching, flaking, dryness, irritation and redness in a 2% pyrithione zinc formula. Conditioner technology also helps protect hair against damage.
One Size Doesn’t Fit All
Almost every hair care industry expert Happi spoke with cited a big trend toward developing specialized shampoos and conditioners, targeted to specific hair types to address every hair need––from fine to frizzy.
After its international success with its Sunsilk brand, Unilever finally launched the line in the U.S. in June. Unilever touts Sunsilk as a serious problem-solving hair care brand that doesn’t take itself too seriously. With catchy product names, commercials and opinions from style experts at the gethairapy website, Sunsilk aims to jazz up drugstore shelves.
Women are able to choose from eight customized collections––shampoos, conditioners and 24/7 crèmes––specially formulated to resolve the most common hair problems. And with two of the eight collections specially designed for Hispanic hair, Sunsilk is the first major U.S. brand to include Hispanic-specific formulas at launch.
The eight formulas include: Anti-Flat for volume, Hydra TLC for softness, De-Frizz to tame frizziness, Anti-Poof for control, Straighten Up for straight, smooth hair, No Major Issues for normal hair and the two Hispanic-specific formulas: Anti-Esponja for soft, manageable hair that doesn’t expand and Anti-Caída for healthy hair that resists breakage.
“We’ve talked to more than 10,000 women across the country over a three-year period, so we understand women and their hair better than anyone,” said Esther Lem, vice president, North American hair care for Unilever. “When it comes to looking good, women don’t want plastic, perfect beauty. Above all, they don’t want their hair to be a source of drama in their lives. They just want to know that the stuff in the bottle works for their hair problem––and that’s exactly what Sunsilk delivers.”
L'Oréal's Vive Pro takes the specialization model to the extreme with four formulas––Color Vive, Style and Body Infusing, Smooth Intense and Vive Pro for Men––not only targeted to specific hair concerns, but also further broken down into hair type. For example in the Color Vive line there are three formulas for color treated hair: one for color treated hair that’s regular, a formula for highlighted hair and one for color treated hair that’s dry and damaged, with each containing UV filters and antioxidants to keep color vibrant and hair healthy. The Style and Body Infusing formula features dual-action technology and styling polymers to create style control and prevent style fallout for fine hair that needs volume, normal hair that needs body and curly and wavy hair that needs control. Smooth Intense with Nutrileum helps lock moisture in and keep humidity out and comes in formulas for frizzy hair that’s fine, medium or thick. Vive Pro for Men is available in a 2-in-1 and daily thickening shampoo for fine or thinning hair, an antidandruff shampoo and 2-in-1 for all hair types and a style infusing shampoo and conditioner for hair that’s normal and fine.
|ISO introduced four regimens for chemically-processed hair.|
“Clients are asking for problem-solving products that enhance their curls, reduce their frizz, thicken, moisturize their dry hair and protect their color, just to name a few,” said Cyndi Dart, marketing manager for ISO.
Baby It’s Cold Outside
With the cold weather here in the U.S., consumers often look to change their hair care regimen to keep their hair soft, smooth and frizz free during the winter months.
Joico’s solution to winter hair woes is Moisture Recovery, a hair care regimen designed to quench dry hair, be it from the environment, chemical processes or plain old genetics. The entire Moisture Recovery collection features Joico’s Hydramine Sea Complex, a blend of algae, sea kelp and marine-derived amino acids and minerals that attracts and retains moisture in the hair, to restore dry hair’s hydrolipidic barrier.
“What makes Moisture Recovery unique is that it offers both an immediate and long-term solution to hair dryness,” explained Damien Carney, Joico’s international artistic director.
In addition to Hydramine Sea Complex, each product in the Moisture Recovery regimen—comprised of shampoo, conditioner, treatment balm and treatment lotion––contains a blend moisturizing natural oils and butters including murumuru butter, jojoba oil and shea butter.
Mizani, which specializes in providing beauty solutions for women with excessively curly textures and women with sensitized hair, knows the cold winter air, combined with dry indoor heating, equals a recipe for dry, unruly curls. That’s why the company recommends a four-product solution to protect hair from the elements, be they inside or out.
“Excessively curly hair is naturally drier than straighter textures, and hair can lose even more moisture during the dry winter months, especially with no humidity in the air,” explained Taydra Mitchell-Jackson, vice president of marketing for Mizani.
Botanifying Conditioning shampoo cleanses, nourishes and soothes the hair and scalp while restoring natural moisture balance via a blend of panthenol to repair damage caused by chemical treatments, polyquaternium-7 to strengthen strands and protect against split ends and breakage and lubricating emollients to hydrate the hair.
Moisturefuse conditioner deeply moisturizes the hair and scalp, revitalizes the hair and adds shine if used after a relaxer with a blend of conditioners, natural oils and botanicals that includes polyquatermium-37 to moisturize and correct breakage and hydrolyzed wheat protein to add body and leave hair smooth.
For a dose of extra moisture, H2O Intense Night-Time treatment is a dermatologist-tested mix of patented ceramide technology to strengthen the hair and a blend of natural ingredients including shea butter, a vitamin A derivative, vitamin E, and pro vitamin B5 to deeply nourish it.
Moisturizing Silkening liquid-gel is a styler and treatment in one with glycerine to add moisture, polyquaternim to protect against heat styling.
And, according to Ms. Mitchell-Jackson, consumers want their shampoo to cleanse and moisturize effectively, but without leaving a heavy residue behind. “When it comes to shampoo and conditioner, customers are looking for cleansing and moisturization without heaviness. They want to know their hair is protected without a lot of coating and residue left on the hair.”
Ahead of the Curl
Sometimes, curly hair can have a life of its own, which is why Mahisha Dellinger founded Curls, a line of hair care products that caters to women with naturally curly hair, developed two new products to address the unique needs of multi ethnic women with curly hair.
Curlicious Curls cleansing cream is a rich and creamy sulfate-free cleanser that gently cleanses, hydrates and conditions the hair in just one step. It’s infused with carrot seed oil, horse chestnut, sage leaf and arnica montana flower extract.
“The reason we decided to launch Curlicious Curls cleansing cream is because we realized there was a huge market that prefers sulfate-free cleansers,” said Ms. Dellinger. “It’s thick, rich and creamy and cleanses without stripping away moisture.”
And since curly hair also tends to be dry, frizzy and unruly, Curls created Curl Ecstasy Asian Hair Tea conditioner to transform dry, damaged, chemically processed or overly stressed hair within minutes. It’s a deep treatment that can be used once a week or once a month, depending on hair type and the severity of damage, that combines exotic extracts and vitamin-packed botanicals with natural emollients to moisturize, condition, strengthen and protect over-worked curls.
“We know a lot of women who have dry, frizzy, color-treated hair,” pointed out Ms. Dellinger. “There was a need for a conditioner that will help replenish, soften and hydrate and we wanted to provide a deep treatment as well.”
|Aveda's Be Curly defines curls while reducing frizz.|
Be Curly curl enhancing shampoo contains mandarin, tangerine, organic aloe and wheat protein, among other ingredients to prep hair for smooth, frizz free curls. The combination of hydrolyzed wheat protein and organic aloe expands when hair is wet and contracts when hair is dry to enhance and intensify curl. The Be Curly curl enhancing conditioner utilizes the same wheat protein and aloe technology plus organic sunflower oil to moisturize and add shine.
Color Me Sexy
With sales of colorants expected to grow 9% during the 2005-2010 Euromonitor forecast period, it’s clear that going au natural––in terms of hair color that is––is increasingly less of an option for most consumers. With more consumers coloring their hair, the market for color preserving and enhancing shampoos and conditioners will grow.
Sexy Hair Concepts’ newest line of shampoos, Color Me Sexy, launched in February, is a collection of color shampoos designed to enhance color, balance shade and gently deposit color during cleansing. Seven shades––each tailored to specific hair colors––are available.
Violet Mood neutralizes warm tones in blonde, light brown or gray hair; Honey Pot enhances golden tones in blonde hair; Fabulous Red enhances cool red tones in dark red hair; Chocolate Kiss neutralizes red or brassy tones in dark brown hair; Copper Penny is for red-golden tones in strawberry blonde and butterscotch hair; Crème Caramel neutralizes copper and orange tones in light brown hair and Autumn Harvest enhances natural tones in light blonde hair.
Davines, a hair care brand found in high-end professional salons, launched its Alchemic line of shampoos and conditioners in September. Each promises to reawaken, intensify and protect that first day color whether natural or chemically treated. Six shades are available: Red, Golden, Copper, Silver, Chocolate and Tobacco and each shampoo boosts shine and locks in color with a concoction of milk proteins, vegetable extracts, vitamins A and B and UV filters. The conditioners hydrate with a blend of vitamin E, maintain color with pigment enhancers and deep condition with hydrolyzed milk proteins.
“Alchemic meets the needs of the informed consumers looking for a color support line of shampoos and conditioners that perform as beautifully as they look,” explained Jorge Blanco, brand manager, North America for Davines.
Since the coloring process often leaves hair dry, weak and brittle, it’s important for color treated shampoos and conditioners to not only help preserve color, but also strengthen and protect hair’s health.
Aveda debuted its Color Conserve Strengthening treatment in October as an intensive treatment that simultaneously illuminates and protects color while strengthening hair from the inside out. Sunflower and macadamia nut oils help seal the hair cuticle to lock in color and deliver reflective shine while natural protectors keep color from fading and antioxidants neutralize free radicals.
PureOlogy has built its brand around protecting color treated hair and recently introduced two new treatment products aimed to keep colored hair healthy and looking lively.
Instant Repair leave-in condition is a weightless leave-in conditioner that strengthens, detangles, revitalizes and adds shine. PureOlogy’s nanotechnology repairs and conditions while providing thermal and color protection, the anti-age complex rejuvenates, smoothes and increases strength up to three times while the anti fade complex contains antioxidants and UVA/UVB sunscreens to extend the life and vibrancy of color. Cationic polymers also attach to damaged spots and deliver a positive charge to instantly repair.
HydraCure is an intensive moisture therapy mask with shea, jojoba, mango and avocado butters to replenish and hydrate dry, damaged hair. HydraCure also contains PureOlogy’s nano technology complex, anti-age and antifade complex in addition to certified organic botanicals of mushrooms.
According to Jim Markham, founder and chief executive officer of PureOlogy, new technology is on the rise in the hair care market. “I believe you are going to see a lot of new technology that is very specialized.”
Keeping it Natural
As consumers become more aware of ingredients, natural products are taking the personal care industry by storm––and the hair care segment is no exception.
“Savvy consumers not only want natural ingredients, but ones that offer real, functional benefits to hair,” noted Dr. Tony Gough, head of global research and development for hair care at COSi. “Products made with fair-trade ingredients, organic products, and those whose ingredients have not been tested on animals will increase in demand, as will the need for products with a good carbon neutral rating as global warming issues continue to make the headlines.”
| ThermaFuse uses its Heatsmart Complex to keep hair healthy.
The Kiwi & Apricot Volumizing system pumps up the volume of fine, thin hair with kiwi and apricot extracts to condition without weighing hair down. Jojoba oil coats the hair to protect it from heat styling and plant-derived hair volumizers naturally add bounce and lift for thicker, healthier looking hair.
Rosewater & Chamomile Normalizing system brings hair and scalp back to a naturally healthy state with the power of Rosewater to tone and balance the scalp’s pH. Lavender and chamomile help soothe while relieving a dry, itchy scalp.
Plumeria & Sea Kelp hair moisturizing system treats hair with an intense dose of moisture to fortify the hair while reducing frizz and treating split ends.
Mint & Rose Intense Moisture treatment is a super hydrating therapy that improves dry, damaged hair caused by chemical processing, heat styling and environmental stress.
“Natural shoppers have not had a range of effective, style-driven and functional products available in their natural product store, and so they have been buying these items in other non-natural outlets,” explained Laura Setzfand, director of marketing for Jason Natural Products. “The natural salon hair care line from Jason delivers the products and performance both mainstream and natural shoppers demand.”
Customers demand more from their shampoo and conditioner than simply cleansing and hydrating; they also want these products to offer specific benefits such as reducing frizz or protecting color, according to COSi’s Dr. Gough. “John Frieda began this trend by offering frizz reduction products including shampoos and conditioners, but this prescriptive-tool of marketing products has expanded into other types of ranges, from damage prevention and repair to shine and volumizing action. The demand for prescriptive products extends to specialized shampoos for different types of hair, from fine to thick and course.”
Jason’s Ms. Setzfand adds that reinforcing overall hairstyle and treating specific hair problems is the biggest request from Jason’s customers. “Rather than simply cleansing, they expect their shampoo/conditioner to smooth, moisturize, protect, enhance, strengthen and volumize. The Jason Natural Salon line has a product regimen to address all these needs.”
Although Nature’s Baby products were developed as an all-natural solution for babies’ delicate hair and skin, adults get just as much of a benefit from the products according to Nature’s Baby creator Adena Michelle. “There is nothing wrong with adults using our baby products because they are created to be gentle, yet luxurious.” She adds that Nature’s Baby shampoo and conditioner is particularly beneficial for color treated hair since “the pH level of our shampoo is not at the stripping level.”
And what is Ms. Michelle’s take on the push for natural ingredients in the hair care market? “People are starting to realize that the products we have been using all of our lives are starting to affect our health and safety. Estheticians are taught that an adult’s body will absorb 60% of the products they use on their skin and that the products may even find their way into their blood stream.”
Ojon is a treatment-based hair care line that utilizes a rich palm nut oil extracted from the Ojon tree, found only in Central America. “Ojon customers request natural based, gentle cleansing, color preserving, and nourishing shampoos and conditioners,” said Denis Simioni, chief executive officer and founder, Ojon Corporation. “In addition to containing a variety of natural ingredients, we have also found that customers like to use specific types of shampoos and conditioners targeted to their specific hair types/needs.”
Fulfilling customers’ requests and needs was the basis behind the development of Ojon’s four ritual categories that target specific hair types and needs.
Ultra Hydrating shampoo and conditioner is ideal for extremely dry or unruly hair, natural or chemically treated and thin or thick hair. All-natural, plant-based cleansing agents team up with the hydrating and smoothing benefits of 100% pure Ojon palm nut oil, babassu, shea butter and sweet almond protein.
Hydrating Thickening shampoo and conditioner is weightless and repairs hair fibers as it lifts and plumps fine hair and increases hair diameter. Shine & Protect shampoo and conditioner is formulated specifically for color treated hair and protects with all natural, plant-based ingredients including an algae extract similar in molecular structure to silicone.
Wash and Go
With consumers’ increasingly busy lives, sales of 2-in-1, treatment and multi-use products are beginning to rise. According to Euromonitor, 2-in-1 product sales are expected to increase 3% over the 2005 to 2010 forecast period.
I-C-E Hair launched triple efx, a 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and body wash in July for the ultimate on-the-go consumer. The formula contains Chinese white tea, chamomile and ginseng to cleanse and rejuvenate both hair and body, African shea butter to quench thirsty hair and skin and a citrus bergmont essential oil blend to wake up the senses and get consumers ready for their day.
“This is not only a product for travel and busy mornings, but for everyday use,” noted Michelle Rodriguez, I-C-E marketing manager.
Last month Rene Furterer launched its reformulated Astera Soothing shampoo and the new Astera No-Rinse Soothing serum to cool and soothe itchy, irritated scalps while also providing cosmetic benefits such as easy detangling and softer hair. Soothing shampoo was reformulated with double the camphor and menthol to calm, soften and protect hair from external aggressors. The newly launched No-Rinse Soothing serum is a scalp conditioner that offers immediate relief of itching and irritation while nutrients help restore the scalp’s self-protective abilities.
“Our clients are not only looking for cosmetic results, but they want to feel and see the results of their scalp and hair treatments,” explained Nathaelle Moreau, product manager, Rene Furterer, Inc. “They expect gentle shampoos and conditioners that will not irritate the scalp––based on natural ingredients––and preserve the hair’s natural beauty.”
Since a majority of consumers use heat styling appliances––which can damage hair––almost daily, ThermaFuse researchers decided to use heat to their advantage and developed each product with HeatSmart Complex, a technology that uses heat to improve hair’s health.
“It is technologically-advanced to combat heat-damaged hair by utilizing a proprietary technology that crosslinks a substantive protein with a silicone molecule to strengthen hair and infuse shine,” stated Van D. Stamey, chief executive officer, ThermaFuse. “HeatSmart Complex delivers on our company’s promise to create healthier hair with heat.”
The company launched its Volume shampoo and Volume condition in February to kick-start flat hair with a blend of naturally volumizing proteins. The shampoo increases moisture while the conditioner thickens and infuses hair with shine.
A Perfect 10
According to Euromonitor, salon hair care is expected to see the greatest decline over the 2005 to 2010 forecast period, but it’s not for lack of sales. More salon hair care products will be sold––but at mass-market locations, which are not included in salon hair care values.
Salon brand Paul Mitchell launched its Lemon Sage Thickening shampoo and conditioner in February to gently cleanse and condition with natural extracts of lemon, sage, peppermint and tea tree for thickness, strength and a lemony scent. Both the shampoo and conditioner thicken hair, with the latter also containing lightweight conditioners to protect, add shine and reduce static.
“We see this whole trend toward specialization and consumers looking for something just for them that is targeted to their needs and hair type,” said Nina Kovner, senior vice president of marketing, Paul Mitchell.
Ms. Kovner acknowledged that the salon hair care segment has been under pressure due to the influx of salon-inspired hair care brands in mass-market retailers, she is confident that salon brands can stay afloat by leveraging salon product positioning.
Alterna aimed to make bad hair days a thing of the past for consumers with the October launch of the Ten line, which combines exotic ingredients for high performance. Products include a sulfate-free shampoo, a conditioner to replenish and a hair masque to renew and repair. The products include ingredients such as African cacao extract to protect from environmental damage and champagne grape seed oil to enhance hair growth.
“To celebrate our 10th year, Alterna has focused on its 10 greatest innovations and discoveries to the hair care industry into this product line,” commented Michael Shaun Corby, global creative director for Alterna.
Nexxus hopped on the naturals bandwagon with its Phyto Organics line, available at JC Penney Salons nationwide. “The products were meant to offer unique formulations of natural ingredients that refresh, restore and rejuvenate the hair,” said Roy Teeluck, Nexxus expert stylist.
Each product in the line is formulated with certified organic Quinoa protein—rare aromatherapy essential oils to promote mental, physical and emotional well-being, exotic botanicals from around the world and certified organic herbs, according to Mr. Teeluck.
Any growth is an achievement for such a mature category and hair care marketers know they must work overtime to sustain and increase the growth by giving consumers what they want––salon-inspired hair care products that tackle every hair care concern from flat to frizz.
Looking for a new hair care ingredient? Start your search here!
Hair Care New Ingredients
Here is a list of new hair care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.
Alzo International Inc.
Email: formulationlab@ mail.alzointernational.com
INCI name: Disteareth-75 IPDI
Use levels: 0.25-5%
Applications: Shampoos, body washes, shower gels, peroxide gels, clear gel conditioners
Comments: Nonionic, cost-effective, alkanolamides replacement. Effective between pH 1.00-14.00. Exceptional thickening with alkyl glucosides, sulfosuccinates, olefin sulfonates and a wide range of amphoteric surfactants.
INCI name: Disteareth-100 IPDI
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Hair gels, hair pomades, conditioners, hair colorants, hair relaxers and permanent wave lotions
Comments: Nonionic, powerful emulsifier and rheology modifier. Effective between pH 1.00-14.00. Works as an emulsion stabilizer and viscosity enhancer when used with other primary emulsifiers. O/W emulsions with 50%-80% oil phase could be easily achieved by using 4-1.5% of Dermothix 100, respectively.
Dermothix 75 Liquid
INCI name: Disteareth-75 IPDI (and) glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate (and) water
Use levels: 1.00-5.00%
Applications: Shampoos, body washes, shower gels.
Comments: Liquid viscosity builder for cold-mix systems. Used as a viscosity adjuster at the end of the batch. Exceptional thickening with alkyl glucosides sulfosuccinates, olefin sulfonates and a wide range of amphoteric surfactants.
Arch Personal Care Products
South Plainfield, NJ
INCI name: Glyceryl/betaine polyacrylate (and) glycerin
Use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Clear gels, mousse, serum
Comments: Excellent ability to create clear gels
Vital Hair & Scalp Complex
INCI name: Water (and) saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract (and) citrus medica limonum (lemon) fruit extract (and) pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract (and) camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract (and) hexylene glycol (and) betaine (and) hexapeptide-11
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Shampoo, serum, hair masque, conditioners
INCI name: Water (and) hexylene glycol (and) betaine (and) superoxide dismutase (and) foeniculum vulgare (fennel) seed extract (and) visnaga vera extract
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, mousse, spray, serum, gel
INCI name (proposed): Methylpropanediol, polysorbate 80, water, salicylic acid, leptospermone, isoleptospermone, flavesone, salix alba (willow) bark extract
Use Levels: 0.25-1%
Applications: Hair care, scalp treatment products, shampoos
Comments: Trikenol is a botanically-derived complex that has been proven effective in treating problems associated with dry and oily scalps. Specifically, Trikenol combines the activity of a manuka concentrate (Leptospermum scoparium) with salicylic compounds derived from willow extract (Salix alba). The unique combination of active ingredients in Trikenol has been proven effective against the bacterial proliferation, irritation and seborrheic effects of these organisms. An in vivo efficacy study, using shampoo containing 1% Trikenol and a placebo showed the effectiveness of Trikenol in the reduction of scalp dryness and oiliness. The one month study evaluated seborrhea, itchiness, redness and presence of skin lesions. Sebumetric measurements yielded a significant decrease of scalp sebum (µg/cm3) by 57%. Test subjects using Trikenol also showed reduction in area of redness, itchiness and skin lesions. Trikenol can be incorporated into transparent or opalescent shampoos and hair lotions at usage levels between 0.25-1.0%.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Tel: +49 (0)30 85 10 26 0
Fax: +49 (0)30 85 10 26 85
INCI name: Water (and) alcohol denat. (and) panthenyl ethyl ether (and) milk protein (and) lactose (and) inositol (and) acetyl cysteine (and) acetyl methionine (and) sodium citrate (and) citric acid
Use levels: 3-5%
Applications: For the prevention of accelerated hair loss (alopecia). Vitalizes the scalp and hair follicles.
Comments: Follicusan contains bioactive signal proteins combined with ethyl panthenol, inositol as well as acetylcysteine and acetylmethionine. Recent in vivo test proved that Follicusan stops progression of Alopecia androgenetica in women.
INCI name: Proprietary blend
Use levels: 15-25%
Applications: Permanent, semi-permanent and temporary hair color creams; after-dye conditioners
Comments: A unique blend designed to make hair color formulation easier. Provides good dye penetration, detangling and conditioning and protection against damage from color.
INCI name: Polyquaternium-72
Use levels: 10-15% (styling); 1-5% (conditioners)
Applications: Clear gels, styling sprays and spritzes, mousses, shaping creams, curl boosting foams and conditioners
Comments: A styling polymer designed especially for curls. Creates soft, touchable moveable curls that lasts without looking worn out or frizzy.
INCI name: Isododecane, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Use levels: 3-6%
Applications: For use in light conditioning products and hair treatment systems that require a soft, volatile velvety feel without build up.
Comments: Jeesilc VHLV will offer soft conditioning attributes to the hair, high gloss properties without build up and good substantivity that is easily removed with traditional cleansing systems.
INCI name: Dimethicone, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Use levels: 2.00-4.00%
Applications: For use in medium to high conditioning products and hair treatment systems that require high gloss with a substantive soft feel for the hair.
Comments: Jeesilc DMLV will provide unique gloss and conditioning attributes to the hair that is easily removed with standard cleansing products.
INCI name: Dimethicone, dimethiconol, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-24
Use levels: 1-3%
Applications: For use in nonionic conditioners that require a soft silicone conditioning effect to be delivered from the aqueous phase of the formulation. This high molecular weight silicone system has a unique particle size distribution that allows for effective conditioning to be delivered from the water phase, and can be processed at room temperature
Comments: Jeesilc 6056 can be incorporated at room temperature at levels of up to 12.0% to provide good antistatic and conditioning properties.
Laboratoires Serobiologiques – Division Cognis France
Tel: +33 (0)144 79 95 17
Fax: +33 (0)144 79 95 01
Elestab HP 100
INCI name: Hexamidine diisethionate
Use levels: 0.01-0.1%
Applications: Elestab HP 100 is a polyvalent preservative with a particularly broad anti-microbial spectrum against bacteria, yeasts and molds. It is recommended for specific hair care focusing an activity on dandruff prone scalps. Due to its cationic behavior, Elestab HP 100 is particularly suitable for rinse-off treatments.
Comments: Elestab HP 100 exhibits two specific properties highlighted by strong clinical study results: its cationic character, guaranteeing a good substantivity to hair and scalp and its efficacy against Malassezia furfur, a fungus considered to be the most common cause of dandruff, resulting in improvement of dandruff state. The antidandruff effect was demonstrated in a clinical test versus a market benchmark in rinse-off formulations: it exhibits a good and significant anti-dandruff effect, still perceivable by the end user two weeks after the end of the treatment. For more than 80% of the volunteers the shampoo with 0.1% Elestab HP 100 has a significant antidandruff efficacy during the treatment.
Phytosoothe LS 9766
INCI name: Brassica campestris (rapeseed) sterols (and) cetearyl alcohol
Use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Soothing, repairing scalp. For sensitive scalp. Ethnic hair care, both leave-on and rinse off. Hair beautifying shampoos and conditioners.
Comments: Phytosoothe is a vegetal biomimetic active that offers a real scalp soothing effect and also beautifies the hair. Therefore it is the best candidate to be used in soothing shampoos or hair relaxer pre- or post-treatments, such as conditioners or hair masks, but even in the hair straightening treatment itself. It is also compatible with high pH. It has an anti-inflammatory effect (in vitro tested), reduces scalp irritation and has an overall hair beautifying effect demonstrated by a clinical study on ethnic panel undergoing relaxing treatments, providing hair repair, manageability and smoothness.
Phytosoothe is a compound of phytosterols that is easy to handle and is energy and cost saving due to the lower heating requirements in production as compared to pure phytosterols.
Puricare LS 9658
INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Use levels: 2% - 4%
Applications: Anti-pollution / conditioning shampoos, care for hair damaged by UV, pollution, perms, hair dye, conditioners, leave-on gels, tonics and crystal formulations
Comments: Puricare is a 2-in-1 anti pollution active for hair based on micro-proteins from Moringa seeds. It offers a specific anti-pollution protective effect and good conditonning and repairing properties: protects hair against environmental stress/pollution: dust, UV, exhaust gas, provides a good conditioning activity improving hair sensorial properties and strengthens significantly the hair fiber that leads to better mechanical properties. Innovative tests have been conducted: anti-dust adhesion (3D visualization), anti-bad odor anti greasiness. Puricare allows hair to remain clean longer between two shampoos.
Puricare LS 9658
INCIName: Water (and) glycerin (and) moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Puricare LS 9658
INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Use Levels: 2-4%
Applications: Anti-pollution/conditioning shampoos, care for hair damaged by UV, pollution, perms, hair dye, conditioners, leave-on gels, tonics and crystal formulations
Comments: Puricare is a 2-in-1 anti pollution active for hair based on micro-proteins from Moringa seeds. It offers a specific anti-pollution protective effect and good conditioning and repairing properties: protects hair against environmental stress/pollution: dust, UV, exhaust gas, provides a good conditioning activity improving hair sensorial properties and strengthens significantly the hair fiber that leads to better mechanical properties. Innovative tests have been conducted: anti-dust adhesion (3D visualization), anti-odor anti-greasiness. Puricare allows hair to remain clean longer between shampoos.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Plandool – AG8
INCI name:Bis-behenyl/isostearylphyosteryl dimer dilinoleyl, dimer dilinoleate
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Shampoos and hair care/styling
Comments: Provides high and level dyeing of the hair with oxidation or acid dyeing, reduces scalp stinging with oxidative dyeing or bleaching and prevents discoloring of colored hair when used in shampoos.
Plandool – G
INCI name: Caprylyl glucoside
Use Levels: 2-6%
Applications: Hair coloring additive
Comments: Gives foam a rich (and) creamy texture, provides a smooth, moist feel (and) gives natural styling without stickiness of hair.
Cation – NH
INCI name: C10-40 isoalkylamidopropyl, ethyldimonium ethosulfate, buthylene glycol
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hair care, hair color and perming
Comments: Prevents hair damage while coloring, bleaching or perming, repairs tensile strength and hydrophobicity of damaged hair, provides moisture retention to hair.
McIntyre Group Ltd
University Park, IL
INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, stearalkonium chloride, amodimethicone
Use levels: 5-7% in water
Applications: Rinse-off conditioner, cream rinse, leave-in conditioners
Comments: Easy-to-use conditioner blend concentrate engineered with Dow Corning’s new amino functional silicone to provide superior shine and extend the life of permanent color treatments. All the conditioners and emulsifiers needed for a premium type conditioner are contained in this product.
INCI name: Isostearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate (and) PEG-9
Use levels: 0.3 to 1.0% depending on the degree of conditioning desired. 0.5 to 1.0% are typical use levels in hair conditioner products
Applications: Hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hand cleansers, body washes, bath products
Comments: Effective, anionic compatible quaternary conditioner. Clear, conditioning shampoos and body cleansers can be formulated with Mackernium CC-119P9.
INCI name: Disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate
Use levels: Depends on applications
Applications: Mild shampoos, light colored shampoos, mild bubble baths, facial cleansers, anti-acne formulations
Comments: Reduced odor extra mild sulfosuccinate surfactant derived from water-soluble silicone copolymer. Ideal for ultra-mild, non-irritating skin cleansing and specialty applications. Product has low water activity (hostile to microbial contamination) and contains no preservatives.
INCI name: Polyquaternium-39
Use levels: Starting concentration 0.25%
Applications: Curl activators, bleaches, dyes, shampoos, conditioners, styling products, and permanent waves.
Comments: Provides excellent conditioning for hair care applications.
INCI name: Polyquaternium-7
Use levels: Starting concentration 0.25%
Applications: Relaxers, bleaches, dyes, shampoos, conditioners, styling products, and permanent waves.
Comments: Cost effective, high solids Polyquaternium-7 conditioning polymer.
INCI name: Acrylates polymer
Use levels: 5% as product
Applications: Styling gels, mousses, waxes, creams, glazes
Comments: Styling polymer that imparts a strong, stiff hold to hair.
INCI name (proposed): C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C18-21 alkane
Use levels: 20-100%
Applications: Shine sprays, leave-on conditioners, hair creams, ethnic hair care, hair color conditioners
Comments: Shine enhancer, improves combability, conditions the hair.
INCI name (proposed): C12-20 isoparaffin (and) C13-15 alkane
Use levels: 20-40%
Applications: Leave-on conditioners, hair spray, ethnic hair care, hair color conditioners
Comments: Shine enhancer, improves combability and conditions the hair.
INCI name (proposed): C12-14 isoparaffin (and) C18-21 alkane
Use levels: 20-100%
Applications: Shine sprays, leave-on conditioners
Comments: Shine enhancer, improves combability, light residual feel.
Crystal Lake, Il
INCI name: Disodium coco-glucoside sulfosuccinate
Use levels: up to 50%
Applications: hair cleansing
Comments: gentle surfactant
INCI name: Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, hydrogenated polydecene, trideceth-10
Use levels: up to 10%
Applications: cold process emulsifier
INCI name: Acrylates copolymer (and) steareth 20
Use levels: up to 10%