Here Comes the Sun

March 5, 2007

Sun care sales continue to rise as consumers become educated about UV damage and companies develop high-tech formulas.

Here Comes the Sun

Sun care sales continue to rise as consumers become educated about UV damage and companies develop high-tech formulas.

Lindsay Elkins
Associate Editor

As sure as the sun rises each morning, sun care product sales continue to rise each year. Global sun care sales rose nearly 13% in 2005, reaching $5.6 billion, with U.S. sales accounting for about $1.3 billion of that, according to Euromonitor International, Chicago, IL. And with consumers becoming increasingly educated on the sun’s damaging effects, that number is primed to take off with a projected growth of 28% between 2005 and 2010, to reach almost $7.2 billion. According to Information Resources Inc., sales of sunscreen rose to nearly $515 million for the year ended Dec. 31, 2006.

According to Euromonitor, the major factor for sun care’s surge in sales is that manufacturers, along with groups such as the Skin Cancer Foundation, are beginning to tout sunscreen as a year-round product and not just a seaside staple. However, while more consumers are beginning to realize the importance of year-round protection, convenience and ease of use are key factors in getting them to actually use the product daily.

“This is where consumers are getting educated and the market is moving,” said Jeff Bedard, chief executive officer of Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen. “UVA rays are as potent in January in Minnesota as they are in July in Miami. They also travel through glass and clouds; they’re the passive rays you don’t think about when you’re just walking from your car or sitting outside on your lunch hour.”

Daily Ritual

Because consumers have noticed an increase in cumulative effects there will be more people looking for daily wear sun protection, according to Mr. Bedard. “Consumers are really gaining vast knowledge.”

Peter Thomas Roth developed a portable powder sunscreen.
To answer the consumer need for a potent, daily wear sunscreen, Blue Lizard reformulated and relaunched its Blue Lizard Face SPF 30+ in a lightweight and non-greasy formula that is said to be perfect for everyday use, even under makeup. Blue Lizard put sun protection first and foremost in developing its facial sunscreen by utilizing 8% Z-Cote Max, a cosmetically enhanced zinc oxide, in addition to adding skin care benefits to create a daily use sunscreen that can be easily incorporated into a consumer’s existing morning routine. In addition to providing SPF 30+ protection, Blue Lizard Face is enriched with antioxidants such as green tea, formulated with hyaluronic acid and is oil- and fragrance-free.

“I think what you’ll start to see is dual or tri-use products with a moisturizing component as sunscreen moves toward a year-round skin care category,” noted Mr. Bedard.

Banana Boat’s new Sun Wear Daily Sunblock lotion is promoted as a daily wear sunblock available in an ultra-sheer formula so consumers can stay protected from head to toe without the heavy, greasy feel of traditional sunblocks. Sun Wear is available in an SPF 50 formula for the body and SPF 30 formula for the face. Each contains Banana Boat’s new AvoTriplex technology, which provides long-lasting photostable UVA/UVB protection that won’t break down under the sun, plus an age-defying complex of bamboo and pea to help skin elasticity and antioxidants to fight off the free radicals that break down collagen. Each also contains oil-absorbing ingredients that provide a smooth––not sticky––feel on the skin so consumers will actually want to apply it.

Dr. Lewinn’s Private Formula is a line of skin care products from Australia that recently introduced Moisturizing Sun Defense, an SPF 30 daily use sunscreen. The formula is based on transparent zinc oxide, a mineral that provides UVA and UVB protection in a lightweight formula.

Clinique’s new City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25, available in May, offers sun protection and skin care ingredients in a tinted oil-free formula. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide provide a physical barrier from the sun while vitamins C and E defend against free radical damage. Nylon 6 and 12 wick away moisture to balance skin’s surface while laminaria saccharina extract helps reduce excess oil, according to Clinique.

“The sun accounts for approximately 90% of our aged appearance and only 10% is due to the actual number of years we’ve lived,” explained Dr. David Orentriech, Clinique’s guiding dermatologist. “If we can minimize the daily dose of incidental sun exposure, we’ll reduce the single most important factor to the appearance of aging.

These companies are right on target with Euromonitor’s predictions that consumers are moving toward purchasing value-added and dual-purpose products with skin care benefits. According to Euromonitor, added functionality is a way for manufacturers to find a competitive edge in a crowded market and win back some market share from other cosmetics and toiletries sectors.

Portable Protection

Consumers today have active lifestyles and often spend a lot of time exposed to the sun and the elements during the drive to work or picking up the kids from school. While most consumers are primarily concerned about direct exposure from sunbathing, according to clinical skin care expert Peter Thomas Roth, they are beginning to see the light––and more importantly, the damage––of incidental sun exposure.

“Incidental sun exposure from activities such as swimming, jogging or walking and gardening are cumulative and can cause significant skin damage,” explained Mr. Roth. “Consumers are realizing the risks related to incidental sun exposure and are beginning to wear sunscreen daily.”

Korres Natural Products helps consumers stay protected from the sun naturally.
Portability, however, is a key concern for most, which is why Peter Thomas Roth launched Instant Mineral SPF 30, an SPF-infused mineral powder that provides immediate sun protection without lugging around a messy SPF cream or lotion. The SPF 30 mineral powder is contained in a tube with a brush attached for the ultimate ease of use. Consumers can simply brush the powder on anywhere for maximum UVA/UVB sun protection with a clear, residue-free, matte finish and no sticky mess. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide an SPF of 30, willow bark extract tones skin and improves circulation and vitamins A, C and E fight free radicals.

Convenience is Key

Sunscreens in the form of mists and continuous spray applications are becoming very popular with consumers because of the convenience factor. Peter Thomas Roth’s Ultra-Lite Oil-Free Sunscreen Mist SPF 15 is packaged in a convenient multi-directional spray bottle so protecting hard to reach areas such as the shoulders and back are no longer a problem. The mist is infused with aloe and allantoin for soft skin, is non-comedogenic and PABA-free. The company is also launching another mist product––Ready Set Go SPF 30 which will feature a 360 degree sprayer, in June.

Neutrogena’s Ultra Sheer Body Mist Sunblock is available in SPF 30 and 45 and will hit shelves next month. The SPF body mist offers a one-touch continuous spray that cools skin with a water-light mist, so skin is left feeling dry and protected––not sticky or greasy. The spray works at any angle and absorbs immediately to protect even hard to reach places with no need to rub it in. The formula also contains Neutrogena’s Helioplex technology, which defends against UVA and UVB rays and photostabilizes so the sun protection lasts longer with fewer reapplications required.

“Hawaiian Tropic will also launch two continuous sprays in the tween and sport segments––Sun Junk Continuous Spray SPF 30 and Ozone Sport Sunscreen Continuous Spray SPF 30+ that are both formulated with SunSure Technology,” said Erin Hughes, public relations and advertising coordinator for Hawaiian Tropic.

Coppertone’s QuickCover lotion sprays provide SPF 50 sun protection in a convenient one-touch spray application. Each of the four QuickCover formulas––UltraGuard SPF 50, Oil-Free, Kids and Water Babies––also contain photostabilized avobenzone to protect against UVA and UVB rays that cause skin aging and burning and show where they go so parents can be sure kids are completely covered.

“Proper application and reapplication of sunscreens is a critical factor in delivering effective sun protection,” said Beth Lange, senior director, Suncare R&D and New Technologies at Coppertone. “Coppertone Continuous Spray and Coppertone QuickCover lotion sprays are designed to address this barrier to proper application and provide superior sun protection for the whole family in a form that is easy and convenient to use.”

Coppertone has also made advancements in its popular line of Continuous Spray sunscreens by upping the SPF to 50 in Coppertone Sport Continuous Spray.

Banana Boat UltraMist Continuous Spray sunscreen provides fast and even application and with just one touch can be applied at any angle––even upside down. Outdoor enthusiasts can rejoice with UltraMist Sport sunblock, which provides quick-drying, rub-free coverage, is non-greasy and oil-free and won’t break down after prolonged sun exposure. Banana Boat’s Kids Tear-Free SPF 50

Continuous lotion spray is one of the first brands to offer a tear-free formula in a continuous spray that is alcohol-free and won’t sting kids’ delicate skin. It offers broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection, is non-irritating to eyes and since it’s a white lotion formula that indicates that kids are covered, parents don’t have to second guess if they missed a spot. The Banana Boat UltraMist formula is also offered in a Dry Tanning Oil SPF 8 Continuous Clear Spray that is non-greasy, rub-free and quick-drying with Banana Boat’s original coconut rum fragrance.

Technology Meets Defense

Last summer, The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved a new sunscreen formula containing Mexoryl SX, an organic filter that is highly protective against short UVA rays. Mexoryl SX is owned by L’Oréal and is only available in the company’s products. However, sun care companies have been working overtime to develop formulas that also protect against damaging UVA rays and won’t break down after prolonged sun exposure.

Neutrogena’s Helioplex technology, available in many of the company’s new products for the upcoming summer season has been specifically engineered to deliver high, broad and photostable UV protection. Neutrogena sunscreens with Helioplex cover the full UVA/UVB spectrum by harnessing the power of two sunscreens, avobenzone, a powerful UVA absorber and oxybenzone, a UVB absorber. Two of the company’s newest sunscreens––Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 and Fresh Cooling Gel Sunblock SPF 30 and 45, which became available in January, feature the Helioplex technology. Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 utilizes micronized silica powder to instantly absorb excess sunscreen oils, so it leaves skin feeling soft with a sheer, matte finish. It’s also non-comedogenic, water- and sweat-proof, allowing it to be used in place of a daily moisturizer, without clogging pores or stinging eyes.

Neutrogena Fresh Cooling Gel Sunblocks with Helioplex technology deliver long lasting sun protection in a soothing gel formula that alleviates the “yuck factor” of thick, greasy sunscreens. The formula is water- and sweat-proof and cools, refreshes and invigorates skin on contact.

Hawaiian Tropic’s patent-pending SunSure Technology also offers advanced UVA protection that lasts longer in the sun, while allowing higher SPFs using less chemical sunscreens.

“Hawaiian Tropic also goes beyond the in-lab testing requirements of the FDA and tests products in the sun,” explained Ms. Hughes. “We have found that in-lab test results differ from tests in real sun. We have formulated all Hawaiian Tropic products SPF 15 and higher with SunSure, spanning segments such as baby, sport, kids and adult protection.”

Banana Boat also developed UVA absorber technology with AvoTriplex, available in many of its new products. The technology starts with avobenzone, a UVA absorber, then adds a stabilizer to prevent the avobenzone from breaking down in the sun. An enhancer works in synergy with the stabilizer to optimize avobenzone stability. 

Banana Boat’s Powder-Dri technology is also new for this year and allows sunscreens to go on like a lotion and dry like a powder via silica––an absorbent particle that rolls on skin, absorbs oil and holds it. The formulas are also developed with less film formers that result in the sticky feeling. The Powder-Dri technology is particularly effective for sports because it allows for a non-slip grip.

Teeka Tan Products is currently testing a patent-pending sunscreen containing a chemical shark repellent and recently completed phase II of a study, which indicated that lemon sharks avoided baits that were treated with a SharkDefense repellent/Teeka Tan Sport SPF 30 formula. Phase III research will focus on replicating the results of the second study as well as improving the cosmetics of the combined sunscreen/shark repellent formulation. Teeka Tan hopes to finish the phase III trials and launch the formula in time for the 2007 sun care season.

According to David Djerassi, president, Intrachem Technologies, a combination package of a topical lotion sunblock taken with an oral supplement will be the next big thing in sun care. The cream/supplement duo is already catching on in Europe, especially France and Germany.

Going Natural

Natural and organic ingredients have been increasingly making their way into personal care products––and sun care is no exception. “I think that in the future we’re going to see more use of botanicals and antioxidants in skin care formulas, as botanicals have the ability to boost SPF without increasing the chemicals,” explained Blue Lizard’s Mr. Bedard. “Our new face product is loaded with antioxidants and they actually gave us an SPF boost of about 5.”

Korres Natural Products is a company that originated in Greece and offers a full line of all natural skin, hair, and sun care products. Korres’ Face and Body Milk SPF 20 contains a natural filter titanium dioxide and shea butter for broad-spectrum sun protection. The natural antioxidant system also prevents photo aging and damage to the skin’s immune system from UV rays.

Korres doesn’t just worry about protecting skin, Red Vine Hair Sun Protection is suitable for all hair types and features water-resistant UV filters to help prevent hair color from fading. Red vine polyphenols and sunflower extract efficiently protect hair from UVA photo-oxidation, while aloe vera forms a protective film along the hair shaft.

Joico’s new K-Pak Sun Therapy was developed to repair hair, which is often overlooked, from sun damage.  Each product in the three SKU line––Nourishing Shampoo, Treatment Masque and Protective Sun Milk––contains Joico’s Hydroxy Sun Complex, which fills in parts of the hair cuticle that have been damaged by the sun.  The formulas also feature Quadramine Complex, a blend of low molecular weight and size proteins that ensure hair strand protection and reconstruction, inside and out; K-Pak Hair Protection System of antioxidants and essential fatty acids and K-Pak Keratin Silicone Complex, which seals the cuticle of the hair, producing intense shine and smoothness.

Nature’s Gate has been a driving force in the natural personal care category for 27 years and recently launched its Be Solective sunscreen for face SPF 30 and Sundercover sunscreen for body SPF 30. Both formulas protect against the sun’s damaging UVA and UVB rays with SPF 30 in a light, non-greasy lotion and contain Gatuline Age Defense, a special walnut extract complex that helps promote younger, healthier looking skin. The facial formula includes organic aloe, comfrey and cucumber for calm, soothed skin and the body formula boasts olive leaf extract and hydrating hibiscus.

“Consumers are much more educated about the damaging effects of the sun than in seasons past, and are thus much more conscientious about the sun care products they use,” explained Casi Morris, director of marketing, Nature’s Gate Beauty. “Staying safe in the sun is definitely concern No. 1.”

Ms. Morris also noted that formulas that offer multiple beauty benefits are becoming very popular with consumers because they cut down the need for many different products and “allow users to streamline their beauty or sun care regimen.”

Safe Sun

By now most consumers know that there is no such thing as a safe tan and slowly but surely are choosing to follow the guidelines set by the Skin Cancer Foundation, which include wearing an SPF of 15 or higher daily, and trying to avoid the sun during peak hours. However, with indoor tanning industry revenues reaching $5 billion, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation, it’s clear that many consumers still crave that golden glow. Since tanning salons emit UVA rays and cause photoaging, the only truly safe tan is achieved from a sunless tanner. Although self tanning is a much smaller segment than sun protection––global sales reached $615 million––it did post the highest value growth in 2005 with 17%, so it’s clear consumers are interested in finding alternative ways than the sun to bronze their bodies. Glow moisturizers, which became wildly popular last season, are still big business.

“Glow products are formulated with DHA in order to give skin the glow of a tan, which slowly builds over the course of a few days,” said Hawaiian Tropic’s Ms. Hughes. “Glow products are formulated differently than sunless tanners to gradually build over time without being orange or streaking––it takes away the fear of sunless tanners.”

Hawaiian Tropic added to its popular Island Glow Daily Moisturizer line of daily moisturizers this year with new Firming Island Glow Daily Moisturizer and Instant Island Glow Daily Moisturizer with Tinted Lip Gloss SPF 15 Duo Pack. Firming Island Glow is touted as a 3-in-1 product that moisturizes, firms and provides a subtle sunless tan when used daily. After two weeks, skin will be firmer and more toned with a refined texture. The product moisturizes up to 12 hours, is non-greasy and contains vitamins A, C and E, caffeine and seaweed extract.

Instant Island Glow is a daily moisturizer that is enhanced with caramel to provide an instant bronzing effect while still developing a sunless tan with repeated daily use. Part of a 2-in-1 duo pack––the first package of its kind in sun care––Instant Island Glow also contains an SPF 15 tinted lipgloss.

Both formulas feature a soothing green tea fragrance instead of the usual unpleasant smell associated with self-tanners.

Everyday Glow

Banana Boat is launching several self-tanning products with Self Adjusting Color, which allows for the deepest tan available with one’s skin tone. Banana Boat Summer Color Self Tanning Mist contains both DHA and erythrulose for color that lasts up to seven days and an any-angle airbrush that provides streak-free color that’s easy to apply. Advanced fragrance technology doesn’t just cover up odor, but eliminates it, leaving a fresh citrus burst fragrance to energize the senses.

Also new for 2007 is Everyday Glow Sun Dial Self Tanning lotion, a dual-action formula that combines self-tanning ingredients with a priming moisturizer to provide an even, streak-free tan that the consumer can adjust to the level of depth they want via a unique dial dispenser. AmphoComplex technology has a moisturizer that primes and smoothes skin so it absorbs the sunless lotion uniformly, while promoting brownish shades of tan for natural-looking color. Two shades––one for fair and one for medium skin tones––as well as formulas for the face and body are available.

Nature’s Gate recently introduced two new natural self-tanning options. Upper Tanagement is a quick-drying self-tanner with organic fennel, linden flower, aloe vera and ivy extract to help skin feel calm and smoothed and allow the faux glow to go on evenly and last longer.

Happy Glow Lucky provides an instant bronzing effect for the face and body and washes off easily. It can be applied all over for an instant tan or used to highlight cheekbones, shoulders and décolletage. Mica provides a dose of shimmer while organic elderberry, hibiscus and dulse sooth and hydrate. Happy Glow Lucky is available in fresh floral and clean citrus scents.

“We created new bronzers and a self-tanner as an answer to consumer requests for organic, faux-sun products,” noted Ms. Morris. “These items are streak-free, utilize mica or caramel for natural-looking color and are free of harsh, offensive smells found in many tanning products.” 

As a result of heightened awareness about the sun’s damaging effects and enhanced consumer education, Ms. Morris predicts that products with higher SPFs as well as self-tanners and bronzers are going to be in demand.

St. Tropez Shimmering Bronzing Mist delivers an instant self-tan while doing double duty to illuminate the skin to capture and reflect light for a sexy, bronzed shimmering effect. The mist is oil-free and dries in 60 seconds and the full tan will develop over three hours. Aloe leaf juice and alpha hydroxy acid allows for a rich, long-lasting tan.

Dr. Lewinn’s Private Formula also introduced Sunless self-tanning lotion, which creates a natural, golden tan without the harsh smell of traditional self-tanners. Soothing ingredients such as aloe vera gel help leave skin smooth and refreshed.

Consumers are even going so far as to visit spas for a professional self-tanning application. The SunFX Pro System is available in spas throughout the U.S. and features a quiet electric turbine that emits a consistent flow of high velocity air. This wraps around the tanning spray, which effectively reduces salon over-spray and allows for a dry-as-you-spray effect.

Sun FX also has a line of home use products to create and maintain a tan. Instant Spray-On Tan delivers a quick bronze glow with a combination of bronzers and DHA that last five to seven days. Body polish, tan extender body lotion, body wash, body butter and body shimmer are also part of Sun FX’s Glow All Over home use line to intensify and maintain the sunless tan.

Dawn to Dusk

Sun care doesn’t stop when the sun goes down. Napoleon Perdis’ Summer Range of products debuts this month and helps keep a sun worshipper’s skin in tiptop shape. After Sun Body Oil combines light reflectors to help skin appear smooth with aloe vera and hazelnut oil to nourish and soothe. It also acts as a quick fix to help correct an uneven tan. Whipped Dream Tan Enhancer deeply moisturizes with olive, almond and hazelnut oil and shea butter to hydrate and enhance a tan.

Growing consumer awareness of the risks of sun exposure, including skin cancer, discoloration and aging are the major factors driving the demand for sun care, according to Euromonitor. With more consumers looking to use sun protection products daily and not just during the summer months, sun care companies can cash in by offering convenient, easy to use products that do double or triple duty to streamline a consumer’s routine.