Hair Care with Style

April 27, 2007

Hair styling trends indicate that consumers crave volume. Now marketers are trying to fill that void with an array of products.

Hair Care with Style

Hair styling trends indicate that consumers crave volume. Now marketers are trying to fill that void with an array of products.

LaToyah Burke
Associate Editor

The hair styling market has been inundated with requests from consumers for products that address problems, add style and enhance texture. Some of these new products include pomades, conditioning mousses and dual-purpose volumizers that enhance moisture and shine. Styling products that promote health are gaining popularity as consumers become more proactive about their hair.

A report from market research firm Packaged Facts—Hair Care Products in the U.S.— indicates that hair gels, mousses, sprays and accessories are stimulating growth in the market. These style enhancers brought the market up to $7.2 billion and will be key drivers growing the market to nearly $8.5 billion by 2010.

Gels and mousses are projected to post a gain of 922 million in sales for 2006 but trail off by 2010. Sprays and spritz are expected to post sales of 600 million for 2006. Total sales projection for hair care in 2006, which includes; shampoo, conditioner, gel/mousse, spray/spritz, accessories, colorants and perm/relaxer total 7.5 billion, according to the report.

The trend toward cosmeceutical hair care has been a driving force behind new product and ingredient innovation for both high end and mass manufacturers. Unusual hair care delivery systems, such as hair-gel strips and highlighting tabs are infusing life into the hair care market, as are the inclusion of natural and organic ingredients. “There is certainly no lack of innovation in the hair care market,” noted Don Montouri, publisher of Packaged Facts.

Celebrity hairstylist and salon owner Ted Gibson gives consumers sophisticated, effortless, styling with his Ted Gibson Hair Sheets. The towelette application and formula eliminate the look of dry ends with a non-greasy feel. The sheets add polish and shine and are convenient. Ted Gibson Hair Sheets calm frizzies, refresh and add shine.

 Organix products help consumers create healthy thermal styles.

Niche hairstyling products continue to prevail, and according to Euromonitor International Chicago, IL changing demographics in the U.S. continue to cause a shake-up in the market. “Over the course of the year, we have seen U.S. hair care players respond to increasing market competition and maturity, by launching a plethora of new products targeting specific consumer segments, in an attempt to differentiate their brands and create value growth,” said Diana Dodson, cosmetics and toiletries analyst, Euromonitor International. Ethnic hair care is also becoming increasingly segmented in general, with the launch of products for African American, Hispanic, Asian American and mixed-race hair types all coming to market in 2006. Products have become tailor-made for unique hair types and concerns associated with ethnic hair.

For instance, the growing Hispanic population is driving styling product sales. Evidenced in last month’s issue of happi, there are a plethora of products making it into the mainstream market that are geared toward the styling and care of Hispanic hair. Marketers are realizing that one size fits all doesn’t apply when it comes to hair styling.

Things Are Heating Up

Consumers are using a lot of heat to style their hair. For marketers, this means hair styling products must help consumers achieve the latest looks in conjunction with heat styling. Since heat styling damages hair, consumers require protective formulas.

“Many consumers do not apply thermal protective sprays or smoothing gels prior to flat ironing or blow-drying their hair. This simple product omission can lead to severely dry and damaged hair,” commented Heather Simmons, vice president marketing, creative & communications, Zotos.

Thermafuse is said to act as a barrier to prevent the hair from absorbing too much heat which causes damage. Thermafuse’s products are formulated to address the needs of consumers who regularly use heat  to style their hair. The products work synergistically to protect and repair heat-styled hair.

Each of the styling products enables hair to stand up to the heat of a blow dryer or hot iron. Using a crème gel delivery system, Thermafuse’s Esculpt Gel isn’t too stiff yet isn’t too light either, Straight Balm tames wavy, frizzy or misbehaving hair and Tac Taffy defines, separates, shapes and molds with ultimate texturizing control. Thermafuse spray stylers such as Boost turn up the volume and Coil Curl eliminates frizz and puts spring into curls while Shine Polish eliminates frizz and adds shine to the hair’s surface. Rounding out the collection, Fixxé Mousse gives fine, thin hair volume.

“Products that provide strong holding, shaping and sculpting benefits are usually the best bet in terms of style support,” added Ms. Simmons. “Some people want a more polished, blown dry effect, others may crave a more natural look. Some might spend hours straightening or curling their hair and others may never pick up a flat iron or curling iron.”

For consumers who opt to create styles with the assistance of a flat or curling iron, Aussie introduced the Sydney Smooth Collection for sleek looking hair. The Sydney Smooth Heat Protector + Leave in Conditioner is a dual-purpose product that combats damage. The drying effects of heat styling and sun damage are banished with Sydney Smooth Heat Protector + Leave-In Conditioner. The formulation includes jojoba oil, silk protein and jasmine to infuse locks with moisture and make strands strong against damage. The addition of special conditioning agents detangles hair and controls flyaways.

Tresemmé’s Thermal Creations is a four-product collection specially formulated to work with the heat of styling appliances to maintain hair’s healthy appearance while achieving salon-quality results. For example, Tresemmé’s Thermal Creations Straightening Gel allows consumers to achieve smooth, straight styles and keep them all day long. Its non-sticky formula provides lasting hold despite humidity. The formulation actually absorbs heat from styling appliances to prevent damage to the cuticle.

For thermal protection, Sunsilk’s ThermaShine line includes shampoo and conditioner as well as the Detangling Shine Spray, which protects hair and adds shine.

Bring Back the Moisture

Sun Silk Hydra-TLC is for dry or damaged hair. It boasts an ultra-moisturizing formula with Nutri-Keratin to hydrate the hair and help combat common effects of dry hair, which include split ends, flyaways and dullness while improving manageability. Amino acids penetrate the hair to strengthen it. The Hydra-TLC 24/7 crème provides extra moisture to address moderate dryness and works with Hydra TLC shampoo and conditioner. Multi-Symptom Masque delivers results to consumers with excessively damaged hair. It was designed for intense conditioning and provides root-to-tip care for  stronger, healthier hair.

When it comes to products, ethnic hair types require moisture from styling aids. Marketers are also seeing an opportunity in targeting the large and growing group of Hispanic consumers who are typically more apt to use hair styling products, according to Kline & Company’s Cosmetics and Toiletries USA research study.

Sunsilk’s Anti Esponja is formulated for Hispanic hair. It soothes hair with avocado and works to deeply hydrate hair and seal fibers to help hair stay hydrated longer. The 24/7 crème eliminates sponginess and adds moisture. The Anti-Caida line is also specifically for Hispanic hair. It is an anti-breakage line that hydrates and strengthens dry, damaged hair.

Motions Professional and Motions At Home salon care products define the multicultural consumer as not limited to just one group. According to Motions experts, Audrey Wells and Vivian Bennett, “Motions At Home products are big on shine, moisturizing and conditioning to make styling hair easy.”

For example, Motions Hair Lotion is an ultra-light, oil-free moisturizer that conditions without leaving buildup on dry hair. Heat Seeker Protection Spray protects and conditions when used during heat styling, while Smoothing Shine Serum protects from frizz and polishes hair leaving a brilliant shine. “Whether hair has been chemically-altered or is in its natural state, Motions products offer maximum care and protection for many hairstyles,” added the Motions experts.    

Curly hair, perhaps the most susceptible to dryness, requires moisture. Ouidad products are formulated specifically for curly hair types. Since 1984, Ouidad has offered products and styling aids for curly hair when no one else would.

“For the past 23 years, Ouidad’s strength has been educating our consumers, teaching them about their hair type and what products work best,”stated Ouidad, who calls herself a curly hair pioneer and founder of Ouidad hair products. For example, with curly hair, “many consumers use straightening products to tame it, rather than products designed specifically for curly hair that work with the natural curl pattern.  Additionally, curly hair is the driest hair type, therefore curl-specific products help to hydrate curls by locking in moisture, without weighing them down with coatings that contribute to frizz and damage,” added Ouidad.

Ouidad Sun Shield Spray, is a reformulated blend of deep conditioning benefits, sun protection and a crystal-silicate sealant that leaves hair softer, smoother and shinier. “All hair types are vulnerable during the summertime, especially curly hair types which are the most fragile, according to Ouidad


Thin, fine hair is fragile too, and requires products that infuse volume to create fuller styles. According to Ms. Simmons of Zotos, “2007 is all about volume. After several seasons of stick-straight looks, consumers are demanding more flowing and voluminous locks.”

SunSilk appealers to Hispanics.
Anti Flat is designed for hair that lacks volume and life. According to SunSilk, 41% of American women say their hair lacks volume. The Anti Flat collection contains a light formula that consists of collagen and vitamin C. In addition to the volumizing shampoo and conditioner, the Weightless Volumizing Crème promises volume void of crunch and stickiness from product buildup.

On the other hand, the Anti Poof collection was designed to release puffiness and excess volume from hair. Jojoba oil helps seal hair fibers and protect them from expanding, ultimately reducing volume and making hair more manageable. The 24/7 Anti Poof crème creates proportion when applied to wet hair and used with Sunsilk Anti-Poof shampoo and conditioner.

Miguel Salvati, on-air personality for Ojon products, agrees that one of the biggest trends in today’s hair styling market is lots of volume. Animated Styling Cream, Volumizing Foam, Plump & Hold Root Lifting Spray and Tunu Elastik Finishing Hairspray are some of Ojon’s volume-enhancing products.

Ojon Animated Styling Cream is a flexible, lightweight styling aid for body with movement. It creates fullness in fine hair and adds body and bounce while enhancing texture, strength and shine.

“Volumizing shampoos, conditioners and styling products give consumers an alternative to permanent processes, and focus on lifting hair at the root for added body and shape,” said Ms. Simmons. Tresémme’s Big Boost Root Lift Spray provides weightless volume for fine or thin hair, implementing natural body at the roots, where lift is needed most. Thermal Creations Volumizing Mousse adds bounce and volume without weighing hair down. It’s perfect for all hair types, especially for those with fine hair, to create fuller, thicker locks.

It was specially formulated to work with heat appliances to boost volume without heaviness due to the unique polymers that melt into the hair when heat is applied. This makes hair more flexible allowing voluminous styles to be achieved. Consumers have certainly taken note and according to IRI, Tresémme’s hair styling gels mousses and sprays rose to No. 12 with sales of more than $9 million for 2006.

Joico’s celebrity artist, Tabatha Coffey insists that most consumers have no idea which product is right  for their hair. “The best way to solve this problem is to find out exactly what look a person wants. For example—if a consumer wants more volume—they would use Joico’s Body Luxe stylers,” said Ms. Coffey.
Joico’s Body Luxe line adds thickness and volume. It contains an exclusive oat protein complex to increase the diameter of each hair fiber without added weight, according to the company.

Thickening Elixir adds instant body and thickness while the Design Foam is a heat-activated non-aerosol that provides body.  Root Lift creates substantial lift and support at the roots.

The biggest trend in the hair styling market is versatility according to Ms. Coffey. “Consumers want a great style that will take them from day to evening. A style that is not only convenient and fun, but also easily manageable,” she added.

Gels, Sticks, Sprays, Mousses

Hair styling products are expanding beyond the traditional forms of gel, mousse and creams. Gels and mousse sales rose to 7.3% last year, exemplifying the shift in dominance from colorants to style-based hair treatments as being in vogue, according to Packaged Facts. Manufacturers are experimenting with more innovativeproducts, such as Estée Lauder’s Aveda Control Tape, which is run through wet hair. A similar product called H20 Styling Strips from Charles Worthington is being marketed on the platform of portability.

“Hair is your ultimate fashion accessory as you wear it every day of your life. The cut, color and condition of your hair is your most personal style statement,” commented Charles Worthington.

The Charles Worthington Results line of hair care products has been reinvented to feature color-coded regimens for moisture—(orange), volume—(red), shine—(blue), frizz—(green), color enhancing—(purple) and balance—(pink). They feature new user and shower-friendly packaging and design as well as new fragrances and formulations.

“I think that manufacturers are doing a good job coming out with specialty products, but we are not doing a good job on items that are very alike,” which tend to confuse the consumer, said Stuart Straus chief executive officer and president of Beautology Brands for Charles Worthington. “There are thousands of items on the shelves. Education is critical.”

P&G recently launched a line of specialty products to the styling market. The Pantene Pro-V Texturize! collection features a host of styling products that allow consumers to create healthy, flexible and re-moldable styles. Utilizing new technology in the delivery of styling products, Texturize allows consumers to style their hair without the stiffness or brittleness of traditional gels and sprays.

“The new line is in step with the current trend toward pliable hairstyles that offer consumers the benefit of changing their hair and keeping it healthy,” said Randall Chinchilla external relations manager, Procter & Gamble.

Aussie's Sydney Smooth tames frizz with flexible hold.
“Consumers seek a healthy and shiny end look, no matter what the style. The result, in many styling products, is adding an additional layer that will help seal in and protect the final effect/style the consumer is seeking,” said Mr. Chinchilla.

“Many women who come into my salon say they don’t like hairspray because of the stiffness they associate with poor formulas they may have used, or because they think there will be an overpowering smell,” Mr. Gibson said.

With that in mind, Mr. Gibson introduced Beautiful Hold Hairspray. It provides professional hold for all hair types in a gardenia fragrance that soothes and doesn’t overpower.

“Beautiful Hold is the absolute opposite of all those old formulas that have given hairspray a bad reputation. Using a workable spray like Beautiful Hold is one of the easiest ways to create the texture and hold necessary for sexy, polished-looking hair,” Mr. Gibson said.

“Many styling products are either too drying or too heavy,” Mr. Salvati said. “Ojon solves those problems by having treatment-based products that nourish hair while giving hold and definition. The treatment absorbs completely into hair adding shine and hydration without weighing it down.”

Mr. Salvati noted that hairstyling is important to consumers because a person’s hairstyle can define their look. “Everyone wants superior style with little effort. As our lives become busier, people spend less and less time on their beauty regime but still want to look great,” added Mr. Salvati.

The Last Strand

One product doesn’t fit all anymore. Consumers look for specialized formulas for specific hair types. “Forward thinking hair enhancements will keep this market growing well into the next decade,” said Mr. Montouri.

More premium-priced products are hitting store shelves and consumers are responding favorably. Consumers are willing to pay more for products offering high-value benefits or addressing a specific hair problem. The hair styling market is offering more and more products designed for specific hair types, such as straight, curly or colored. “Product manufacturers are continually striving to enhance product performance and to find new ingredients that provide additional benefits to the hair,” observed Ms. Simmons.

“Consumers are becoming even more demanding in terms of product performance, and manufacturers who focus on product innovation and performance will be well poised to answer that call,” observed Ms. Simmons.

As more consumers embrace their individual hair’s texture and needs instead of transforming them with harsh products and treatments, marketers will continue to enjoy success via niche positioning. 

Looking for a new hairstyling ingredient to incorporate into your hair care product? A list of them starts on p. 70 in Happi

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