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Skin Care Grows Up



Skin care sales continue to rise as companies introduce advanced anti-aging and professional products at home.



Published April 27, 2007
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Skin Care Grows Up

 TranspHuse Eye is an age-fighting eye cream to improve fine lines and wrinkles.
Skin Care Grows Up



Skin care sales continue to rise as companies introduce advanced anti-aging and professional products at home.



Lindsay Elkins
Associate Editor



Skin is in. Not that it was ever out, what with thousands of baby-boomers turning 60 every day. With global skin care sales increasing 10% in 2005 to top $55 billion (retail), according to Euromonitor International, it’s clear that consumers want to keep their skin in tip-top shape and are willing to spend the money to do so. However, the days of using a basic cleanser and moisturizer are long gone, as skin care marketers continue to introduce advanced products that aim to mimic doctor’s office procedures in the convenience of consumers’ own homes.

An Ounce of Prevention



According to Euromonitor, the anti-aging segment reported the fastest growth in 2005 with value sales increasing by 13%, as the baby boomer generation tries to correct past damage and younger consumers hope to prevent it.

TranspHuse Night Serum contains a range of antioxidants.
As younger consumers become increasingly interested in turning back the clock before it moves, Euromonitor analysts predict the market will not only expand to appeal to a larger, more varied consumer base, but the focus for products targeting the younger demographics will move to preventative care.

“Anti-aging is becoming a very broadly defined term,” noted Debbie D’Aquino, vice president of Clinique product development for treatment. “No longer does it only mean repair. It also means prevention and protection from the assaults that can cause skin to age prematurely.”

Clinique’s Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer was launched in March as a way to protect delicate skin from free radicals––a major cause of skin aging and damage.

“Free radicals are highly reactive molecules that can start a skin damaging chain reaction, like dominoes,” explained Tom Mammone, executive director of biological research and development, Clinique. “To prevent free radical damage the skin has a defense system of antioxidants.”

The formula features A/O8 Antioxidant Complex of eight rapid and delayed-release antioxidants to help diffuse the four most prevalent free radicals––singlet oxygen, hydroxyl, superoxide and peroxide. It also contains a catalytic antioxidant known as Eukarion-134, which recycles itself to combat oxidative stress that continues to take its toll on skin even after exposure occurs to continuously fend off damage before it becomes visible on skin’s surface.

“Most antioxidants get used up as the damage happens,” said Ms. D’Aquino. “What consumers don’t realize is that there is a cascade of continuing damage that happens even if you remove yourself from the external assault. This is why Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer has been formulated with eight, powerful rapid and delayed release antioxidants. The complex fights off free radical damage on contact but also continuously recycles itself to mend the on-going oxidative stress post-exposure.”

In September, Elizabeth Arden launched Intervene Pause & Effect SPF, an “age-delay” range for women in their 30s and early 40s. The key ingredient is Biodormin, a material that is extracted from narcissus bulbs during their dormancy, and promises to hit the “pause” button before the skin aging process kicks in. Arden executives expect Biodormin will be the big news in anti-aging for younger women during the next few years.

Researchers at Epionce aim to help skin regulate its own protective and reparative processes so that it is able to effectively protect and repair itself from the damaging effects of the environment. The Boise, ID-based company touts its Renewal Facial Lotion as a must-have for healthy skin. It provides a natural, protective barrier that prevents damage from environmental aggressors while fighting visible signs of aging including fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone.

Ylang ylang and lavender help calm irritated skin and apple date and meadowfoam help restore a soft texture. Renewal Facial Lotion also contains Epionce’s EpiA and EpiB complexes to treat skin inflammation and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier.

Epionce’s Intensive Nourishing Cream does double duty by not only protecting skin from environmental damage but also correcting existing damage. It contains high levels of active complexes formulated to stimulate skin rejuvenation, correcting and preventing environmental damage while clinically improving skin firmness, elasticity, texture and radiance. It also contains Soft-Focus Technology to diffuse and scatter visible light, making skin imperfections less noticeable. Skingenic uses the power of lychee fruit and hyaluronic acid to revive dull, tired skin and bring back its youthful look. Skingenic’s Revive Intensive Serum Day, Revive Intensive Serum Night and Regenerating Moisturizer all help skin retain moisture, which according to the company is a vital ingredient that skin needs to look young. All three products include Skingenic’s patented Lychee Complex to deliver nutrients essential for healthy skin, green tea to fight free radicals, copper peptides to stimulate collagen formation, idebenone, a powerful antioxidant, kelp to protect against inflammation and dark spots and DMAE to increase skin’s firmness.

Seraphim skin care includes Peel and Bleach cream.
Even as interest in anti-aging heats up, the concept of beauty is changing. According to Euromonitor, as baby boomers age, they still want to see themselves reflected in advertising, movies, music and on TV. As consumers increasingly appreciate the beauty in these less-than-perfect public faces, and high-definition television make every line visible, the drive to retain a 20-year-old’s complexion into mid-life will lose some of its thrust; the first major challenge to the multi-billion dollar anti-aging skin care business.

Older and Better?



Some skin care companies are already working to attract women who are coming to accept that they are aging and are looking only to bring out the best in their mature skin.

DDF’s Ultra-Lite Peel with Elm Extract is a gentle, leave-on peel infused with exfoliating and anti-inflammatory ingredients to soothe sensitive skin. Arginine glycolate and elm extract exfoliate, refine and encourage healthy cell renewal to leave skin looking vibrant and visibly younger with a smooth texture. According to Georgia Sturges, director of education, DDF, the concept for the Ultra-Lite Peel, which launched in March, came about because there was a void in the market for a peel geared to more sensitive skin types.

“There wasn’t an alternative that was more gentle and offered the necessary exfoliation properties needed for sensitive skin types,” said Ms. Sturges. “There was a real need for supplemental care.”

DDF was recently acquired by Procter & Gamble.
Shielding Skin



As many consumers now know, the sun is a major cause of aging and skin damage, which has skin care companies launching a crop of new daily-use sunblocks to shield delicate skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. DDF’s Enhancing Sun Protection SPF 30, which debuts this month, utilizes a unique delivery system with self-adjusting color spheres to enhance natural skin tone, even out complexion and minimize visible redness, all while offering a physical barrier against damaging UVA/UVB rays and free radical damage. Allantoin, green tea, aloe vera and chamomile extract help provide smooth, flawless coverage for a healthy, sun-kissed glow, while anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties help restore, calm and protect skin.

“We’ve really become renowned for our sun category and offer a broad range for face and body,” noted Georgia Sturges, director of education for DDF. “In addition, when we were expanding the sun care line, we wanted to introduce something that offered sun kissed glow without necessarily going into a self tanner or tinted moisturizer.”

Aging Gracefully



Women may be willing to wait a bit to see those lines and wrinkles start to become less noticeable, but more often than not anti-aging products that work faster are better.

For the woman who simply can’t wait weeks to see an improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, Mary Kay introduced Targeted Action Line Reducer, which softens fine lines and wrinkles within minutes of application and over time. The lightweight formula dries quickly and can be worn under foundation. It utilizes a blend of light reflecting microspheres to deflect light away from lines and wrinkles. It also contains gliadin, a source of amino acids that firms and tightens skin and a cocktail of antioxidants to neutralize free radicals and strengthen skin’s natural defenses. The pen-like applicator allows women to reach hard-to-treat areas of the face such as between the brows, from the nose to the corner of the mouth and around the eyes.

Erno Laszlo first launched the Surgiceutical line in 2005 and it has quickly become the company’s premier anti-aging collection. Two new additions––TranspHuse Night Serum and TranspHuse Eye Cream debuted in January and have become favorites of Erno Laszlo customers.

TranspHuse Night Serum is a repair treatment that works overnight to battle stress-induced skin damage. The light serum helps diminish the appearance of fine lines, while toning and tightening the skin via a cocktail of four complexes. Pro Biobalance Complex enhances the cell’s own defense mechanism against environmental stress, Expression Relaxing Complex limits and controls micro-contractions for smoother skin, Smooth Wrinkles Complex (glycosaminoglycans) helps preserve skin’s collagen network and Firming and Lifting Complex, featuring Matrixyl L 3000, a new polypeptide technology, helps rebuild the extra cellular matrix, induces the synthesis of collagen and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

“The serum uses a cocktail of four complexes that really work well together,” explained Erno Laszlo’s Patricia Schuffenhauer. “There is also a lavender tint and fragrance added so when it is applied at night the fragrance relaxes the consumer and helps her get a peaceful sleep.”

TranspHuse Eye is an age-fighting eye cream that gives a healthy sheen to the eye area and helps improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while protecting against environmental stress. TranspHuse Eye provides immediate moisturizing and tightening benefits, while smoothing out deep wrinkles over time. It protects skin cells from oxidative stress and free radicals and diminishes the appearance of dark circles.

“The eye cream is an anti-aging, moisturizing eye cream that uses the same cocktail of complexes as TranspHuse Night Serum and, in addition, has vitamins A and E and cranberry oil to nourish and protect,” noted Ms. Schuffenhauer.

With anti-aging products becoming so advanced and taking advantage of ingredients once available only through doctors, consumers are quick to purchase these at-home treatment products, and Ms. Schuffenhauer only sees this continuing.

“I think there’s still a number of people that will consult a doctor, but there is also the customer that won’t, yet still wants to see results and benefits,” she said. “By applying topical treatments, consumers can achieve significant benefits without going through actual surgery. It’s a huge category and market that is primed for big growth.”

Davi skin care is based on pomace, a by-product of grape skins and seeds.
Kaplan MD, created by Beverly Hills dermatologist Stuart Kaplan, is a line of professional, medically-proven skin care products designed to counteract the negative effects of estrogen loss on the skin. Formulated specifically for the real-life skin care needs of women over 30, the line targets the 12 skin symptoms associated with transitioning skin, some of which include accelerated formation of fine lines and wrinkles, thinning, colorless or translucent skin and photosensitivity, while providing protection against aging and environmental damage.

Kaplan MD’s Replenishing Night Cream contains 10 active, patented ingredients to prevent and treat skin aging caused by time, environmental damage and hormonal imbalances via a long list of fruit and botanical ingredients including soy, grape seed, black cohosh, squalene, jojoba esters, yeast, iris florentina, root extract and licorice. Vitamins A, C and E also provide antioxidant protection against UV-induced free radical damage, improving skin elasticity, tone and firmness. According to independent studies, Replenishing Night Cream was shown to decrease fine lines and wrinkles up to 32% in two weeks.

Professional Results at Home



The increased availability of expensive cosmetic procedures such as Botox, microdermabrasion and chemical peels has inspired a trend toward at-home treatments that claim to mimic the professional results achieved in clinics. Following the 2003 launch of Prescriptives Px DermaPolish System, the first at-home microdermabrasion product from a premium manufacturer, Avon, Lancôme, L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson all introduced microdermabrasion products in 2004 and 2005 according to Euromonitor. Home versions of chemical peels were also popular with consumers in 2004 and 2005, with Avon, L’Oréal and Neutrogena all introducing their own versions.

After working alongside a plastic surgeon and seeing the skin-enhancing benefits tretinoin (Retin A) had to offer, Lil Dyer Cobbs ventured out on her own to launch Seraphim Skin Care. The star product is Peel and Bleach Cream, available in a formula for the face, one for the body and another for sensitive skin. Seraphim’s Peel and Bleach cream  is one of the few products on the market that combines tretinoin, hydroquinone and alpha lipolic acid in one bottle, according to the company. Ms. Dyer Cobbs also developed a patent-pending technique for applying the cream, to achieve maximum results in a short amount of time and help to avoid the side effects, such as redness and irritation, which sometimes comes with the use of tretinoin.

“Instead of a six-week protocol I came up with a two-week protocol and also came up with ways to avoid redness, flaking, peeling and stinging, but still change the skin dramatically,” said Ms. Dyer Cobbs.

Although Peel and Bleach Cream is used at home, it’s only available from a prescription. Since the Seraphim Technique is new to many, the product comes with an instructional booklet, video and phone number to call. “You feel like you have someone in the bathroom teaching you how to use it,” observed Ms. Dyer Cobbs.

According to Ms. Dyer Cobbs, Peel and Bleach Cream is for every age group, from 12 to 80-plus and remedies a slew of skin conditions from acne to fine lines and wrinkles.

“I believe women, men, teenagers and older consumers want to look the healthiest they can with minimal amount of time and money,” she said.

P&G Inks Skin Care Deal



Taking the at-home trend a step further, Syneron Medical Ltd. and Procter & Gamble signed an exclusive joint development and supply agreement in February for the commercialization of patented, electro-optical synergy (ELOS)-based, home-use devices and compositions that enhance skin appearance by treating fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots and cellulite.

Under the terms of the agreement, Syneron will lead the research, development and manufacturing while P&G will focus on the development of the compositions, marketing, and distribution. The home-use devices will be marketed under the P&G family of skin care products and will be co-branded with Syneron’s ELOS technology.

Battling Problem Skin



Although anti-aging is showing the fastest growth, skin care products developed to address problem and teen skin continue to be big business.

Epionce’s Lytic Lotion is a single solution for myriad skin problems. It unclogs pores and reduces redness and irritation often associated with problem skin, without the drying side effects of conventional treatments containing benzoyl peroxide. Lytic Lotion also smoothes uneven skin texture by loosening and removing dead skin cells on the surface and unclogs pores to help eliminate blemishes.

Teen Everyday Skincare System (TESS) was developed by mom Susan Shand specifically to meet the unique needs of teenage skin. Each product is tested by Ms. Shand’s 15-year-old daughter and her friends, and just launched two new products––Go Undercover Strawberry Gel Mask and Magic Mud Eucalyptus Mask.

Go Undercover is a soothing leave-on treatment mask for teens with combination skin. The paraben-free formula contains strawberry oil to gently exfoliate, antioxidants including hibiscus flower and green tea, lemon and grapefruit extracts to balance and detoxify and aloe vera, chamomile and comfrey to soothe. The mask is gentle enough to leave on overnight and dries to a smooth finish so it won’t rub off on sheets.

Magic Mud is formulated for teens with blemish prone skin and absorbs excess oil and draws out impurities that can lead to skin problems down the road. Bentonite clay removes toxins, camphor cools and reduces redness, biosulphur fluid naturally exfoliates, witch hazel cleanses and balances and calendula and comfrey soothe and heal.

Ms. Shand observed that shared beauty time is an ideal way for busy moms to spend time with their daughters. “You can catch up with your kids in a relaxed environment and learn a lot about what’s happening in their lives,” Ms. Shand told Happi.

Supporting this, spas and salons across the country are reporting an increase in mother/daughter spa services, according to TESS.

Earth Therapeutics’ new Clari-T First Aid Kit offers double the acne-fighting action, as it contains both a skin care tool and Clari-T Clarifying Tea Tree Oil Acne Serum º5.  The skin care tool is specially designed to safely and effectively extract blemishes and should be used in conjunction with the Clari-T Acne Serum is a medicated skin therapy formulated with certified organic tea tree oil. The serum deeply penetrates the pores to dry up and eliminate most blemishes and will also help prevent the formation of new acne blemishes with regular use.

Going Natural



Natural ingredients have been popping up in everything from hair care products to cosmetics to household cleaners, and skin care formulators are taking notice and creating sophisticated products with natural extracts. According to Euromonitor, health and wellness, consumer concern with treating their bodies with care and respect to preserve natural, youthful beauty, is leading increasing numbers of consumers away from synthetic ingredients toward plant-derived products or organic brands. These products are not only considered to be gentler on the skin, they can also be hypoallergenic or appeal to specific consumer segments. Children and the older demographic are particular targets for natural and organic skin care because the milder formulations are gentler on these delicate skin types.

Bio-Oil, which was introduced in select drugstores in March, is a one-size-fits-all skin care remedy that originated in Cape Town, South Africa. The formula prevents and minimizes scars and stretch marks, evens skin tone, nourishes aging skin and lubricates dryness and flakiness. The product is a dry oil that leaves no residue behind. It contains calendula, lavender and rosemary oils and chamomile extract, as well as vitamins A and E. After these materials are combined, formulators add PurCellin Oil, a laboratory recreation of duck preen gland oil which is noted for easy spreadability and absorption. It helps to provide the optimum storage environment for vitamins and natural herbal ingredients by eliminating oxygen and water and creating a thin, non-greasy, protective layer over the skin to prevent dryness and guard against moisture loss, while allowing the skin to breathe.

Following a successful launch in the Asia-Pacific region, Mannatech introduced a new skin care line featuring a proprietary water technology that allows its Optimal Skin Care System to remain free from preservatives, which according to the company gives it a head start in the increasingly competitive market for natural-based products.

The proprietary water technology entails filtering and ionizing it to increase its purity and in turn, extend the product shelf life of the any personal care range formulated with it. The water filtration technology is also said to better hydrate skin cells as compared to the filtered-only water commonly used in skin care ranges.

Renowned winemaker Carlo Mondavi created Davi, a skin care line catering to men and women based on the concept of “freshly picked skin care.” The line focuses on the benefits of pomace, a by-product of grape skins and seeds from the wine-making process during fermentation that provides antioxidant benefits.

Working with French researchers, Mr. Mondavi and his team developed an anti-aging antioxidant complex in microencapsulated form. Meritage is a mixture of grape leaf and fermented wine extracts, grape and green tea paired with a combination of bilberry, black currant oils, olive, raspberry, rosemary and soybean.

Products in the women’s line include Le Grand Cru, a rich, moisturizing face cream; Vine Fresh SPF 30 lotion, a light moisturizer with sun protection; Moscato Purify-ing cleanser, a gentle cleanser and conditioner and Harvest Mist toner, a soothing mist that hydrates and tones. The men’s line also features Le Grand Cru, in addition to Vine Fresh SPF 15 lotion, Crushed Grape Seed Exfoliating cleanser, Reserve Shave Cream and Coastal Vine After Shave. Davi products are available exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman.

Aidance Skincare recently introduced what it calls the first natural acne care product. All-natural, over-the-counter Tetrasil cream features a patented compound of silver and oxygen. Silver is widely known as a natural and effective anti-bacterial agent, according to the company. Recent research is showing that bacteria seem unable to develop resistance or mutation strategies to silver, which is emerging as an important weapon in the fight against infection and as a major new ingredient in skin care products. Other natural ingredients in Tetrasil include jojoba oil, which helps balance sebum production; organic beeswax, a natural anti-inflammatory and essential oils help detoxify clogged pores.
 
According to Aidance, Tetrasil begins to heal breakouts faster and without many of the side effects associated with traditional acne medications such as bleaching, irritation, drying and flaking of the skin.

Whether to prevent or correcti aging skin, heal problem skin or provide professional results at home, consumers want sophisticated skin care products that deliver results. Today, marketers around the world are creating them.

Looking for a new ingredient for your skin care product? A list of them begins on p. 114 in the May issue of Happi.




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