In-Cosmetics in Review

May 29, 2007

Another year, another record attendance for Europe’s largest trade show devoted to the global personal care industry.

In-Cosmetics in Review

Another year, another record attendance for Europe’s largest trade show devoted to the global personal care industry.

Tom Branna
Editorial Director

Interest in novel ingredients has never been greater, judging by the jammed aisles at In-Cosmetics 2007. The cosmetic ingredient trade show, which was held April 17-19 in Paris, set a new record for attendance. According to show organizers, the number of unique visitors soared 32% to 6,233, while the number of booths jumped 19% to 477. In front of thousands of potential buyers, industry suppliers rolled out an array of new products. Here’s a look at some of what’s new from exhibitors.

New Ideas in Polymers

National Starch Personal Care introduced a film-forming polymer that it claims substantially improves the wear performance and water-resistance of color cosmetics, particularly mascaras and eyeliners. Dermacryl C film-forming polymer is an easy-to-handle, high-performance acrylic emulsion polymer that delivers improved resistance to wear, allowing the creation of consumer products that last longer and perform better. Besides mascara and eyeliners, other applications include foundations, eyeshadows, blushes and more. Tests conducted by National Starch Personal Care have shown that Dermacryl C film forming polymer delivers substantially improved wear—reduced smudging and flaking—and water resistance in non-waterproof mascara systems, while remaining easy to remove. The thick, soft, flexible films provide natural volumizing and enhanced curling benefits to eyelashes.

“In color cosmetics, much of the innovation that has occurred in recent times has focused on packaging and delivery systems. With Dermacryl C, personal care companies have the opportunity to develop new benchmark formulations that respond to consumer preferences for longer-lasting, higher performing products and tap into the 24/7 lifestyle trend,” said Penny Vanemon, marketing director. “The technology can deliver products with better sensory experience, that are easier to use and that help consumers look great all day.”

Eastman introduced Eastman AQ 38S polymer for sunscreens. According to the company, the water-dispersible polymer may lower formulation costs, reduce the amount of emulsifier needed, improve feel and sprayability and increase the efficacy and water-resistance of sunscreens. In test, researchers used 1% Eastman AQ 38S vs. 2% of a competitive oil-soluble formulation and found the Eastman material performed equally well despite the lower concentration amount.

Noveon, too, rolled out a new polymer. Fixate Superhold polymer is said to provide stiff hold and superior humidity resistance to hair styling products. In addition it is easy to distribute throughout the hair, adds high shine, resists flaking and isn’t tacky or sticky after drying.

“One of the most common needs in the styling products market today is still hair feel and stiff hold. This is especially desirable in men’s hair styling, in products targeting younger consumers, and in regions where hair is more tenacious and requires greater holding power, such as Asia and Latin America,” explained Xu Liu, marketing manager, fixatives, Noveon.

A New Polymer in the Fixate Lineup

Superhold is the newest material in the Fixate lineup, which already includes Fixate Plus styling polymer for long-lasting style support and good humidity resistance, and Fixate G-100, a polymer that provides a broad range of hold and stiffness levels, from natural to crisp.

Besides rolling out new products, Noveon used In-Cosmetics as the launching point for its Sanctuary of Senses Megatrends presentation. According to the company, the three macrotrends are: Luxury, Simplicity & Well-Being and I-Dentity. With the first, consumers find meaning through pampering; they’re on a quest for the things that make life richer and more worthwhile. In contrast, consumers who follow the simplicity path go back to basics and focus on core values, often adopting a more holistic approach to beauty. Finally, I-Dentity represents the emergence of the individual as the star.

Natural Butters for Personal Care

Biochemica, Melbourne, FL, rolled out an array of butters with personal care applications, including shea, chamomile, horsetail, lavender and lemon grass. According to Larry Moroni, president of Biochemica, lemon grass butter is actually an extract of whole Cymbopogon citratus (Lemon Grass) stalks using BioChemica’s proprietary exotic butter base, which produces a smooth, velvety “butter” at room temperature. It surrounds the user with a wonderful aroma that calms and relaxes.

“With lemon grass butter you get the aromatic properties of this herb in a luxurious, easy to use butter base that will add amazing skin feel to any emulsion, or anyhdrous formulation,” explained Mr. Moroni. “It is completely oil miscible and contains no preservatives or coloring agents.”

Ultra PC amino alcohols from Angus Chemical meet product safety requirements of both the European Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC and the upcoming ASEAN Cosmetics Directive (effective January, 2008).  These alcohols were launched in 2004 to comply with the European directive. Both directives have specific requirements for the use of alkanolamine neutralizers. For primary and tertiary amines, the restrictions include:
    • A minimum purity of 99%;
    • A maximum secondary amine content of 0.5%; and
    • A maximum nitrosamine content of 50 parts per billion.
    “As regulatory requirements become increasingly strict and widespread, Angus is pleased to be able to continue to service its customers with highly efficient neutralizing amines that have the added benefit of compliance with all current personal care and cosmetics directives and are readily available around the globe,” said Liam Doherty, global marketing manager, Angus.

What’s New at Cognis

Cognis introduced several new cosmetic materials at In-Cosmetics. Cetiol SenSoft  emollient is highly compatible with common raw materials, offers excellent hydrolytic stability, good UV filter solubilizing power and has the ability to wet powder. Arlypon TT is a thickening agent for difficult-to-thicken systems. The product is pumpable, cold processable and preservative-free. Cognis also showcased Lamesoft Care. Its micronized lipid system delivers intensive conditioning effects for hair care concepts and excellent sensory properties in body wash products.

Univar showcased a variety of solutions at In-Cosmetics. The company distributes a broad range of personal care ingredients, including silicones, color blends and UV filters. Furthermore, Univar helps streamline customer activities and reduce costs through optimizing production flows. The company operates from 56 distribution locations in 18 countries throughout Europe. In addition, Univar is expanding throughout China and Canada, and its recent acquisition of Chemcentral will greatly enhance its position in North America.

New Cosmetic Powders

Arkema, France launched Orgasol Caresse, a new grade of ultrafine polyamide cosmetic powders with the right hydrophilic-hydrophobic balance to make its dispersion easy in water. In skin care and color cosmetics, Orgasols provide a soft touch to skin and color cosmetic formulations, according to the company.

Gattefossé’s Hema’Tîte is an iron complex derived from stone extraction technology. According to the company, new ex-vivo and in-vivo tests showed powerful activity (similar to retinol) which stimulates collagen synthesis and increases epidermal thickness. In a test on crow’s feet, material decreased wrinkle volume up to 75%.

For advanced hair care products, Gattefossé highlighted the protection value of Gatuline Age-Defense. Tests conducted on hair fibers show that Gatuline Age-Defense used at 0.5% can efficiently protect hair against daily UV harmful effect. It can also be used as a preventive or a curative treatment to protect or repair hair.

Besides the trade show, In-Cosmetics 2007 included three days of marketing trends presentations by leading market research firms. For example, Briony Davies, an analyst with Euromonitor International, told conference attendees that the global market for cosmetics and toiletries topped $270 billion.

Next year, In-Cosmetics 2008 will take place April 15-17 in Amsterdam. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com