| Winter calls for dramatic eye and lipcolor. |
Fall’s color cosmetics offer an array of hues.
LaToyah Burke
Associate Editor
A year ago, niche brands were emerging, today they’re all the rage in the color cosmetics market. Brands that address makeup needs in addition to skin care, anti-aging and more are gaining ground in the beauty segment. “This fall our focus is all about health couture—products that not only look great in their packaging and fall in line with trends, but are delivering great benefits to the skin,” said Alexis Mezzina DiResta, vice president, Tarte Cosmetics.
Sales of mass color cosmetics rose 6.27% to $1 billion in 2006, according to Information Resources Inc, Chicago, IL. The greatest gainer in the facial category, eye color, was up 5.2% from 2005.
Major fashion houses, like Chanel and Dior, have always had their hand in the beauty industry, but NPD group analysts say more designers are entering the cosmetics arena with artist and alternative brands. “These three types of niche or specialty brands now make up about 39% of the dollars in the prestige beauty industry,” said Karen Grant, senior beauty industry analyst for The NPD Group. “They’re keeping the younger audience attracted and involved in the playfulness and fun of the makeup category.”
Women remain persistent when it comes to their beauty purchases. According to NPD, makeup is the top prestige beauty category in the U.S with a 37% share and $3.1 billion in sales.
What to Buy for Fall 2007
“Last year’s rock and roll chic look is transformed this season into ultra-natural, yet polished sophistication. Eyes are always a great focal point, especially given that the rest of the face is neutral for the season,” according to Joey Chancis, founder and chief executive officer, Joey New York.
Consumers are shopping for their cosmetics online more than ever. Internet shopping accounts for 4% of all sales or about $1.7 billion in the more than $42 billion dollar beauty industry. That makes it the fastest growing channel for shopping according to a new report from consumer and retail information provider the NPD Group.
| Clinique's fall line, Play in the Dark, has a deep, rich look. |
Moreover, 74% of those women say it saves time and about 70% say it’s easier and/or quicker to shop online than in a store, according to the report. Surprisingly, Baby Boomers are just as likely to shop on the internet for beauty products as their younger counterparts. Women ages 45-64 make up a large segment of the Internet shopper base.
Solid Foundation
According to Mintel, L’Oréal holds 36% of the mass market with approximately $894 million in sales. Revlon is No. 2 at $543 million and Procter & Gamble rounds out the top three with $476 million in makeup sales. The three companies accounted for 77% of mass market sales in 2006.
Revlon surpassed P&G last year by maintaining share of its Revlon and Almay brands. Keeping things fresh, Almay launched Smart Shade blush and Smart Shade bronzer to complement skin tone, utilizing shade sensing smart beads that adjust to consumers skin tone. The liquid cream formula produces sheer, natural color results. The blush is available in pink, berry and natural shades while the bronzer is only available in sunkissed.
Banking on the minerals trend, Almay recently introduced pure blends mineral makeup. It provides coverage that makes skin look radiant and feel natural. Talc-free minerals help nurture skin and blend seamlessly to camouflage flaws and imperfections, according to the company.
| Tarte's ready-to-wear color collection includes two full makeup looks. |
Representing almost half of total makeup dollars, the facial makeup segment gained 3% due primarily to new product launches.
Moisture is on the mind of many women. One of these new product launches, Clinique’s Supermoisture Makeup is a completely modern, super hydrating crème-gel foundation. Scheduled to hit shelves in October, Supermoisture Makeup provides intense hydration and imparts a radiant, healthy glow.
“Moisture and comfort are top of mind for women with dry skin, especially when it comes to foundation,” explained Janet Pardo, senior vice president, global product development, Clinique.
Supermoisture Makeup features Clinique’s exclusive polymer-based complex which time-releases moisturizers and conditioners where they are needed most. The unique film-forming polymer blend, in combination with special pigments, allows the product to set for all-day wear and color.
| Wet n Wild's Ultimate Expressions. |
Play in the Darks is Clinque’s Fall 2007 color collection. It “offers a rich sophisticated palette of deep, luxurious hues for a polished, yet refined look,” said Beth Mumm, director, Clinique product development worldwide.
According to Ms. Mumm, fall trends are about deep rich colors, rich black with pops of intense purples, blues and grays, with a touch of metallic chic. “Fall beauty is about a bold, dramatic eye, rich and deep, with a smoky elegance,” she added.
Addressing the makeup concerns for women of color, Black Opal’s Oil Absorbing Pressed Powder was recently named “The Best Make-up” in Essence. Featured as a must-have beauty item, Black Opal’s Oil Absorbing Pressed Powder boasts effective shine prevention, silky smooth finish and reasonable price.
Black Opal’s Oil Absorbing Pressed Powder is hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic to ensure healthy skin. Specifically formulated for darker skin tones, it contains color-balancing properties that keep skin from looking pale and comes in seven different flattering shades. The triple milled powder leaves skin looking and feeling smooth without leaving a cakey finish.
Maintaining Excitement
Kline and Company reported that U.S. retailers of beauty products are banking on multi-channel sales and personalized customer relations strategies to maintain a competitive edge. A peek into the industry reveals a challenging, mature market and growing competition from the direct to consumer sales channel.
Mary Kay uses a multi-directional approach by making it easy to buy online, www.marykay.com, with the help of an independent beauty consultant and consumers can call 1-800 MARY KAY to connect with a consultant in their area.
In new product news, the company launched MK Signature Eyeliners and Brow Definer Pencils. Mary Kay set out to help women look more vibrant, youthful and relaxed with its new eye products to add color and definition. MK Signature Brow Definer Pencil features a creamy, longwearing, waterproof formula that creates a well-defined look with smooth delivery. The pencils are available in new brunette, soft black, popular blonde, classic blonde and soft auburn shades. They are perfect for filling in and defining brows as well as creating an instant eyelift.
Mary Kay’s MK Signature Eyeliners make lashes appear fuller. The new eyeliners have been updated and come in smaller, more portable packaging. They contain a new creamier, long-wearing, waterproof formula that glides on to provide intense color. Available in bronze, black, navy, deep brown, olive, steely, taupe and amethyst shades, the retractable pencil never needs sharpening.
Avon recently introduced Ultra Color Rich Lip Gloss with SPF 15. They deliver sheer super-shaping, gleaming, glossy color, according to the company. The glosses feature a moisturizing formula with vitamins A, C and E and jojoba oil for smooth definition and lip-magnifying shine.
In step with fall, Avon introduces Autumn Knits Eyeshadow Quad. The textile inspired palettes feature four classic colors. and can be worn alone or layered as the powder shades weave together seamlessly.
Beauty retailers are beefing up enticements like customer loyalty programs and purchase rewards in an effort to retain customers and attract new ones, according to the Kline report. “Beauty product retailers are using more personalized approaches and more frequent, targeted communications to develop tighter bonds with their customer base,” said Carrie Mellage, director of consumer products, Kline & Co.
Color Me Green
Wendy Lewis, beauty consultant, states that, “Fall makeup is all about sultry eyes and deeper lips for drama. Intense greens accentuate the organic look and the growing trend of a return to all things natural and earthy.”
“Green beauty is reflecting changing world beliefs. We see natural ingredients as being part of a lifestyle, rather than just a trend,” said Ms. Grant.
Face Atelier, Calgary, CA offers a contemporary selection of shades that are not “overly pigmented.” According to the company, fall 2007 beauty is less contrived than in seasons past. Skin should be dewy and natural with a lightly flushed cheek.
| Mineral makeup has become increasingly popular. |
“This season, our fall look drew inspiration from the au natural trend of the runways,” according to Ms. Chancis. “Fall focuses on a more subtle hint of color that gives an ethereal, youthful glow. The look requires minimal makeup with a matte finish. The fresh, flawless face incorporates complementing hues that can easily transform from day to evening.”
Jane Iredale recently launched Reformulated Amazing Base and PurePressed Base. Jane Iredale’s base powders contain concentrated pigments that interact with light to provide a flawless finish that gives a natural and youthful look to skin. These mineral powders are enhanced with sea minerals and boron nitride, which has a nutritive effect on skin, to soothe skin and help to protect against UV radiation and water loss.
“What we’ve accomplished is the moistness and smooth application of a cream without sacrificing the superior coverage of our established mineral powders,” said Jane Iredale, company founder.
One of the ingredients found in the mineral powders is Algae extract 1, an omega-3 acid which soothes sensitive skin, improves cellular cohesion, prevents water loss and rebuilds the lipid film barrier in the dermis for smooth, supple skin. Algae extract 2 has DNA protective properties and effectively guards against UV radiation.
Amazing Base, available in 18 shades, consists of water resistant minerals that provide broad-spectrum, chemical-free sun protection with SPF 20. PurePressed Base, available in 24 shades, protects with SPF 20, pomegranate extract and pine bark extract.
“The trend these days seems to be less about color and finish and more about how you can offer your customer product that is both good for her and good for the environment,” said Ms DiResta. “You can’t underestimate the impact of the natural, eco-friendly movement on the beauty industry.”
Keep An Eye Out
The eye segment, which makes up about 30% of the makeup category, grew 4% to $875 million, according to NPD. “Fall’s color palette is back to nature, showing rich textures and unique exotic color combinations. Spicy reds, deep wine shades for lips; purples with smoky, dusky shadows and moss green touches for eyes and sumptuous coffee hues as the new black,” said Ms. Lewis.
Wet n Wild recently launched Ultimate Expressions Eyeshadow Palettes with eight shades. Coordinating color schemes for every taste and skin tone, these compacts are perfect for on-the-go touch-ups and are small enough to slip into a purse. The Fantasy Island pallet plays up the smoky look for fall featuring blues and greens. Palettes are also available in Sand Castle and Paradise Cove.
Mirabella’s warm browns play up eyes for a beautifully finished fall face. Smoky eyes get a kick from liner that’s apparent but not overdone, thanks to soft, blended edges.
Mirabella’s Pick 10 Palette invites consumers to pick 10 eye colors to take along everywhere. The new eye color palette comes complete with a mirror for applying color on the go, while magnets hold each shadow in place. “Available in 36 richly pigmented shades, Mirabella’s Eye Colour creates flawless, long-lasting looks with an alluring range of intense shimmer, sheen and matte formulations, so there’s a finish that’s perfect for every mood and occasion,” said makeup artist Christy Thurston, founder and president, Mirabella, Bountiful, UT.
At Bobbi Brown, this fall is all about cool neutrals. “The tones in our collection, Stonewashed Nudes, were inspired by stones that I found while hiking,” said Bobbi Brown, chief executive officer, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics.
Stonewashed Nudes is a fool-proof way to get a smoky eye for fall, according to Ms. Brown. “Stonewashed is really versatile because you can make it look strong and dramatic with black gel liner, or you can make it look sweet and ladylike with a pink cheek and lip.”
The Stonewashed Nudes Palette includes seven shades in soft matte and shimmering finishes—Espresso, Rock Shimmer, Mica Shimmer, Stonewash Shimmer, Ash Shimmer, Hot Stone and Navajo.
“Fall 2007 promises a cornucopia of eye shadows in gold, bronze and copper shades,” said Debbie Bondar, founder and president of Face Atelier.
Lip Service
“The dark red lip made its usual appearance at the recent fall collections,” according to Napolean Perdis, Napolean Perdis Cosmetics, Los Angeles, CA. “This season, the look is best suited for those with a steady hand for what could be considered the platonic lip ideal—perfect, crisp-edged garnet mouths.”
“Continuing a trend that began in the spring, lip pencils and lipsticks are back, and this fall, look for bold hues in red and burgundy,” said Ms. Bondar.
| Lipstick shades are bold. |
“One of the biggest trends is a return to lipstick and the strong mouth, especially in deep, creamy jewel tones of red, berry and magenta,” said Ms. DiResta.
“If a woman feels compelled to play up any one feature this fall, it’s definitely all about the lips. For example, our Inside Out Vitamin-Infused Lipstick in Revive will be extremely on trend for fall,” added Ms. DiResta.
“After several seasons of wearing every color of gloss imaginable, lips are making a more dramatic statement for fall,” said Ms. Thurston. “I’m welcoming lipstick back to my personal cosmetics wardrobe, because it’s a much better choice than gloss for working women.”
For Clinique, this season’s lips are given a soft succulent hint of color with a hint of dewiness, according to Ms. Mumm.
Revlon’s fall lip color has been enhanced with ProCollagen. Revlon Renewist Lipcolor is the first lipstick with the patent-pending ProCollagen Core for moisturized, smooth and full lips. It is available in a variety of shades.
Cosmetic Solutions
Recent trends indicate that 30 is the new 20, and consumers want makeup that will help enhance the look. This means, makeup products with anti-aging benefits that promote younger looking skin are abound. According to Mintel, sales of L’Oréal’s Age Perfect, Maybelline’s Age Rewind, Revlon’s Age Defying and similar products nearly tripled to $61 million from 2004-2006.
Revlon recently added to its Age Defying product group, Age Defying Instant Firming Face Primers with Botafirm. The primers contain Botafirm to firm skin and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, thus making makeup easier to apply. The formula contains hexapeptide and botanical extracts that works with skin’s own naturally-occurring proteins, according to the company. They are available in normal/combination and dry formulas.
Debbi Stewart Cosmetics targets women in their 30s and older as well as women who want to camouflage a cosmetic procedure.
“We have relationships with numerous plastic surgeons who recommend the Debbi Stewart line of mineral-based foundations to patients to camouflage things like surgical bruising and injectables,” said Debbi Stewart, chief beauty officer, who warns that frost and metallic shades only work on a young face as it has a tendency to reveal flaws and age skin.
Fall features a refined, matte look. A liquid-to-powder formula, Joey New York’s 4-in-1 Marine Collagen Foundation, provides a porcelain-like canvas. The light formula smoothes on easily for even coverage and gives skin a refined powder-like finish. Skin-penetrating marine collagen makes skin look younger, feel firmer and appear more radiant and refined.
| Mirabella's winter looks were created with the holiday spirit in mind. |
A Peek at Winter and Beyond
Winter makeup trends usually feature colors that were previously seen in fall but are updated for the season. “Winter will feature beautiful crimson red lip colors with shimmer and lots of dimension and deeper jewel tones for the eyes in green, bordeaux and gold with lots of pigment,” said Ms. Baranja.
“Winter will intensify fall colors, with an emphasis on forest-like hues and richer golden tones,” said Ms. Lewis.
According to Mirabella, a flawless foundation, naturally glamorous eyes and glowing lips will be the trend for winter 2008. Mirabella’s Prime, a weightless, oil-free formula glides onto skin to create the ideal base for a smooth face. It moisturizes, tones and protects the skin.
“This winter, it will still be all about achieving flawless looking skin and accenting it with pink quartz-inspired shades,” said Ms. Brown. “There’s something really beautiful about gold with a bit of pink in it. Rather than dictating a set “look” for the season, we believe in tailoring looks for each woman.”
“Recently the trend has been a dewy illuminated face and we will continue to see this luminous look into winter,” added Ms. Mumm.
Spring 2008 makeup trends will no doubt bring about change. “The consistency will be very sheer and light—golds, yellows, greens aquas, pale pinks. Lip colors will have more multi-color effects—tangerine/apple corals, pomegranate/ tomato pinks and red chili pepper/cherry hot pinks and will also be sheer but with a bit less high-powered shine,” said Ms. Baranja.
“We see a change toward a more casual look. Taking a break from the ultra dramatic, Spring 2008 will be more classic,” said Ms. Mumm.
“For Spring 2008, less is more. A warmed buff and neutral look is a good background as a starting point. Sheer peachy, tawny and nude tones prevail along with a safe sun-kissed glow that comes from a bottle not the beach,” said Ms. Lewis.
“At the end of the day, consumers buy what looks best on them without being a slave to the runway. Consumers are becoming more brand agnostic when it comes to color cosmetics, and they mix and match with prestige and mass brands,” she added.
“Niche beauty will continue to grow,” according to Ms. Lewis, “because we are all searching for something different, unique and special that not everyone has access to.”
Marketers must continually surprise, amaze and impress the consumer. “It’s not hard to get feedback—you don’t need focus groups anymore, you can use the Internet to a huge advantage,” said Ms. DiResta.
“As a channel the growing importance of the internet for beauty is undeniable. It is the marriage of the in-store experience with the internet that will secure the success for brands, manufacturers and retailers in the future,” said Ms. Grant.
Above all, it’s about listening to what the consumer wants. It’s important to gain an understanding of what drives their choices and coming up with the best way to answer those needs.
Looking for a new ingredient for your cosmetic product? Begin your search here!
New Ingredients
Here is a list of new color cosmetic ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.
Alban Muller International
Miami, FL
Tel: 305-994-7558
Email: usa@albanmuller.com
Website: www.albanmuller.com
Lipidamis
INCI name: depending on references (each extract has an INCI name)
Use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Can be used in any cosmetic product, as natural actives and oily phase components without proportion limits.
Comments: These oil-soluble extracts are preservative-free and protected by a natural antioxidant.
Phytamis
INCI name: depending on references (each extract has an INCI name)
Use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Phytamis are compatible with a high number of preservatives, all kinds of emulsifiers and fragrances.
Comments: 100% natural, perservative-free water-soluble extracts with a wide range of land and sea extracts.
Amigel
INCI name: Sclerotium gum
Use levels: to 1%
Applications: Amigel is the ideal added value for the formulation of difficult-to-use ingredients (essential oils, mineral salt, etc.), stable emulsifiers (even without emulsifiers), powders wuch as titanium oxides and makeup pigments (for sun protectors and foundations, for instance).
Comments: Exceptional gelling and thickening characteristics even in extreme physical and chemical conditions. It is also a stablizing agent for all cosmetic formulas, even the most delicate ones.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Website: www.centerchem.com
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Happy Skin
INCI name: Glycerin, water, rhodiola rosea root extract
Use levels: 0.2-2.0%
Applications: Facial care, anti-aging skin care, hair care.
Comments: Happy Skin is a novel natural active ingredient that can promote relaxation and wellness effects when applied to the skin and scalp through the stimulation of ß-endorphin production. It contains Rhodiola rosea, which increases neurotransmitters levels and improves central nervous system activity and cardiovascular function when taken orally. Efficacy studies have shown that ß-endorphin levels were increased thus enhancing moods without significantly modifying the rest of the studied hormonal parameters.
Syn-Tacks
INCI name: Glycerin, palmitoyl dipeptide-5, diaminobutyloyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl dipeptide-6 diaminohydroxybutyrate
Use levels: 0.4–1.0%
Applications: skin care products, anti-aging products.
Comments: Syn-Tacks is a combination of two synthetic peptides, which interacts with the most relevant protein structures of the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Syn-Tacks stimulates Laminin V, Collagen types IV, VII and XVII and Integrin all at the same time. Due to the broad spectrum of Syn-Tacks’ activity, this product can provide the maximum anti-aging benefit to the skin.
Trylagen
INCI name: Water, pseudoaltermonas ferment extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, tripeptide-10 citrulline, tripeptide-1, lecithin, xanthan gum, carbomer, triethanolamine
Use levels: 5.0%
Applications: Skin care products, anti-wrinkle products.
Comments: Trylagen is a combination of active peptides and proteins that provide an efficient treatment to restore the collagen levels of all skin types. Activity of Trylagen is three-part: collagen boosting, organization and protection. An in vitro study was conducted to show the collagen boosting activity of Trylagen.
Ciba Specialty Chemicals, Inc.
High Point, NC
Tel: 336-801-2126
Website: www.cibasc.com
Email: hpc@cibasc.com
Calisha Contemporary Gold Pearl OD
INCI name: Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (and) cetyl dimethicone
Use levels: 10-20%
Applications: A colorant in skin creams, lotions, lipsticks, nail polish, eye and facial makeup.
Comments: Calisha Contemporary Gold Pearl OD can be used globally as a color additive. It is a non-dusting grade of gold pearl, hydrophobically modified to promote nicer skin feel and better coverage than untreated pearl.
Calisha Contemporary Deep Red Oxide
INCI name: Iron oxide
Use levels: 5-20%
Applications: Colorant in skin creams, lotions, lipsticks, nail polish, eye and facial makeup.
Comments: Calisha Contemporary Deep Red Oxide disperses in the water phase. It develops a very consistent color, with strong pigmenting features.
Calisha Art Deco Red 6 Lake HD
INCI name: Red 6 Lake
Use levels: 1-15%
Applications: Colorant in lipsticks, facial makeup and nail polish.
Comments: Calisha Art Deco Red HD develops a very consistent color, with strong pigmenting features. It creates a brilliant red tone on the skin.
Cognis
Monheim am Rhein, Germany
Tel: +49 2173 4995 0
Website: info@cognis.com
Email: www.cognis.com
Cetiol Sensoft
INCI name: (proposed) Propylheptyl caprylate
Use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Face decorative application, lipgloss, lipstick
Comments: Cetiol SenSoft, delivers a multi-dimensional softness and has a very good wetting power, especially for modified corn starch and PMMA. It is suitable for color cosmetics applications.
Croda, Inc.
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Website: marketing@crodausa.com
Email: www.crodausa.com
Cromollient DP3-A
INCI name: Di-PPG-3 Myristyl ether adipate
Use levels: 5-80%
Applications: Pigmented makeup, stick systems, treatment products, sunscreens
Comments: Slow spreading emollient; forms films that adhere to the skin for better delivery of actives; excellent solvent for sunscreens; high pigment wetting dispersant; synergistic effect on pigment wetting properties of other esters; good wax solvency; rich, persisting emollient; elegant skin feel; skin softening effects; non-greasy application; excellent rub-in characteristics.
Crodasperse
INCI name: Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) di-PPG-3 myristyl ether adipate (and) sorbitan isostearate
Use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Color cosmetics
Comments: Patented blend of ingredients that allows for the easy dispersion of inorganic color pigments thus eliminating the need for high energy sheer mixers; higher pigment loads with lower viscosity; color cosmetics with homogenous color; drier feel through better dispersion, enhanced skin feel; fuller color development in cosmetics; low energy dispersant system.
Optisol TD-50
INCI name: Titanium dioxide
Use levels: 1-15%
Applications: Color cosmetics; tinted moisturizers, suncare, skincare
Comments: 50% active dispersion of Optisol; broad spectrum UVA & UVB protection; effective free radical scavenger and anti-oxidation properties; stabilizes cosmetics actives; photostabilizes organic sunscreens; non-whitening.
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products
Wilmington, DE
Tel: 217-421-3443
Website: www.duponttateandlyle.com
Email: melissa.c.joerger@usa-dupont.com
Zemea Propanediol
INCI name: Propanediol
Use levels: 1-99%
Applications: For use in cosmetic, personal care and household care formulations. Functions as an emollient, humectant, hand-feel modifier, solvent and enzyme stabilizer.
Comments: High purity corn-derived 1,3-propanediol which lacks skin irritation and sensitization. Can be used in formulations to replace propylene glycol, butylene glycol and glycerin.
Eckart Cosmetic Colours LLC
Painesville, OH
Tel: 440-954-7582
Email: cindy.kincaid@altana.com
Website: www.eckart.net
Visionaire Bright Blue
INCI name: Aluminum powder and ferric ferrocyanide and silica
Use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Powder and nail applications.
Visionaire Bright Red 7
INCI name: Aluminum powder and silica and Red 7
Use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Nail and blushes
Visionaire Bright Champagne
INCI name: Aluminum powder and aluminum hydroxide
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Powder and anyhdrous applications.
Jeen
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesilc PS-PTLV
INCI name: Phenyl trimethicone, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Use level: 5-10%
Applications: Ideal for use in lip applications that require a superior high gloss profile with a flexible film that is non-tacky.
Comments: Jeesilc PS-PLTV is a novel silicone polymer that offers outstanding film forming properties with exceptional feel and cushion from a non-crosslinked polymeric network. Compatible in stick applications.
Jeenate 2H
INCI name: Polyethylene
Use levels: 3-10%
Applications: Liquid foundations, hot pour application, water in silicone emulsions.
Comments: A low molecular weight, predominantly linear polyethylene that delivers good structure properties. It can improve oil thickness for emulsion stabilization, while possessing a low melting point of 58°C.
Jeesilc PS-VH
INCI name: Isododecane, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Ideal for use in liquid foundations that require a fast drying, volatile, powdery after-feel from a non-crosslinked polymer gel.
Comments: Jeesilc PS-VH is a new novel silicone polymer gel network that offers outstanding feel and cushion to the skin from a-non crosslinked polymeric network. The Jeesilc PS-VH is ideal for a light powdery matte finish in color cosmetics.
Kobo Products
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-757-0033
Email: info@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproductsinc.com
KTZ Classic White-12
INCI name: Mica, titanium dioxide and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
Use levels: 2-70%
Applications: Lipstick, eyeshadow, face powder, blush
Comments: Various surface treated pearls are now available. They improve dispersability of the pearl and hlep to achieve a higher pearl content in the finished formula while improving feel and adhesion to the skin.
Laboratoires Serobiologiques,
Division of Cognis France
Ambler, PA
Tel: 215-872-2864
Email: sylvia.nefkens@cognis.com
Website:
www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com
Myoxinol LS 9736
INCI name: Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extract (and) dextrin
Use levels: 0.5–2%
Applications: Anti-aging makeup and longer lasting hold of makeup.
Comments: Myoxinol LS is a natural and safe alternative to smooth expression lines. Its anti-wrinkle efficacy has been clinically demonstrated after 3 weeks of treatment. It is available in powder form and ideal for makeup formulations.
Active Powder Eye Light LS 9792
INCI name: Water (and) lauryl methacrylate/glycol diemthacrylate crosspolymer (and) dicaprylyl ether (and) panthenol (and) aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) extract (and) titanium dioxide (and) algae extract (and) calendula officinalis flower extract (and) xanthan gum (and) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate.
Use levels: 3–7%
Applications: Active Powder Eye Light is suitable for anti-fatigue eye care, dark circle treatments and eye makeup concealers.
Comments: Active Powder Eye Light has been developed on the base of the active fraction of Biophytex, a synergistic complex of five plant extracts to target eye contour care.
Active Powder Volu’Lips LS 9773
INCI name: Water (and) lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer (and) glycerin (and) dicaprylyl ether (and) titanium dioxide (and) pisum sativum (pea) extract (and) algae extract (and) cassia angustifolia seed (and) polysaccharide (and) gellan gum (and) xanthan gum (and) polylglyceryl-2r dipolyhydroxystearate.
Use levels: 3-7%
Applications: Active powder volu’lips is suitable for all lip care and makeup applications.
LCW Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Saint Ouen l’Aumône, France
Tel: 33 (0) 1 34 48 57 00
Email: lcw@lcw.fr
Website: www.lcw.fr
Unipure LC HLC
INCI name: Iron oxides (and) hydrogenated lecithin
Use levels: 0.1–20%
Applications: Makeup products, skin care products
Comments: This natural hydrophobic treatment applied on advanced pigments provides an excellent stability in W/O emulsions (foundation, lipsticks) while imparting a soft and lubricant feeling. HLC treatment has the huge advantage to be easily incorporated without grinding in cosmetic formulations.
Unipure LC FMS
INCI name: Iron oxides (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether
Use levels: 0.1–20%
Applications: Makeup products, skin care products.
Comments: A unique line of both hydrophobic and lipophobic treated pigments which is not affected by sweat or sebum and presents an excellent adhesion on the skin. This double treatment technology permits the formulation of long lasting makeup and anhydrous powder-to-cream roducts.
Unipure LC NBSB
INCI name: Iron oxides (and) butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) (and) beeswax (and) euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax
Use levels: 0.1-20%
Applications: Makeup and skin care products
Comments: This original range of natural waxes coated advanced mineral pigments imparts a good hydrophobicity and lipophilicity. Moist softness, excellent compacting properties, the resulting pigments can be used without any grinding.
Noveon, Inc.
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Email: pcp.csr@novoen.com
Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com
Schercemol DISD Ester
INCI name: Diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate
Use levels: up to 60%
Applications: Wetting agent and shine enhancer in lipsticks, lipglosses, makeup, pressed powders, eyeshadows and rouges.
Comments: In skin care applications Schercemol DISD ester offers rich, non-tacky emolliency which makes it an ideal choice for night creams. Its mildness has also made it a popular choice for after-sun care and treatment serums.
Schercemol PTID Ester
INCI name: Triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate
Applications: Lipglosses and lipsticks.
Comments: Schercemol PTISD esters’ super glossy and substantive characteristics make it an ideal candidate for use in lipgloss and lipstick formulations. In skin products, as a moisturizer, Schercemol PTID offers a smooth cushion and long-lasting feel.
Schercemol DISF Ester
INCI name: Diisostearyl fumarate
Use levels: up to 60%
Applications: Lipglosses and lipsticks.
Comments: In lip care products Schercemol DISF ester helps to disperse pigments and is used to decrease feathering and bleeding. It provides a rich skin feel in creams and lotions. With its high contact angle, Schercemol DISF is ideal for applications requiring targeted delivery. It also provides a rich skin feel in creams and lotions. Schercemol DISF ester is a high shine emollient with good conditioning properties, and is used in hair care applications.
Presperse
Somerset, NJ
Tel: 732-356-5200
Email: lmazzeo@presperse.com
Website: www.presperse.com
Permethyl 216C
INCI name: C18-21 alkane (and) C13-16 isoparaffin
Applications: Hair care, skin care and color cosmetics.
Comments: A cleanser and moisturizer that provides shine enhancement for hair products, a silky afterfeel in creams and lotions and increases playtime in color cosmetics.
Permethyl 222C
INCI name: Alkane (and) C12-20 isoparaffin
Applications: Hair care, color cosmetics, lip products and skin brighteners.
Comments: Improves combability, provides shine and gloss in both hair care products and lip products. Leaves a light, satiny afterfeel on the skin.
Permethyl 296C
INCI name: C12-14 Isoparaffin (and) C18-21 alkane
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics, skin brightening products.
Comments: Very light, moisturizing product with partial volatility. Improves spreadability and skin brightening.
RITA Corporation
Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: (815) 337-2500
Email: tgoode@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com
Ritaphyl ICS
INCI name: Isocetyl stearate
Use levels: 5%
Applications: Used as a binder for pigments, emollient for foundations and lipcolors.
Ritatone Gel 100V
INCI name: Dimethicone, ethylhehexyl palmitate, quaternium-90 bentonite, propylene carbonate
Use levels: 2-25%
Applications: Provides suspension for pigments, inorganic UV sunscreens, actives, dispersions, scrub particles and emulsions.
Comments: Ritatone Gel 100V is a silky soft paste that can be easily spread over skin, leaving behind an invisible hydrophobic film of ultra thin organo-clay platelets on the skin. Ritatone Gel 100v can impart a strong shear-thinning rheology while delivering a light lubricous skin feel.
Ritatone Gel 102V
INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane, ethylhehexyl palmitate, quaternium-90 bentonite, propylene carbonate
Use levels: 2-25%
Applications: Provides a suspension for pigments, inorganic UV sunscreens, actives, dispersions, scrub particles and emulsions
Comments: Ritatone Gel 102V is a silky soft paste that can be easily spread over skin, leaving behind an invisible hydrophobic film of ultra thin organo-clay platelets on the skin. It can impart a strong shear-thinning rheology on cosmetic and toiletry products while delivering a light lubricous skin feel.
Tri-K Industries, Inc.
Northvale, NJ
Tel: 201-750-1055
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
Honeywell Asensa CL 120
INCI name: Polyethylene
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Pressed powders, eyeshadows, lipsticks.
Comments: Pressed powders are highly susceptible to shattering. Asensa CL 120 answers this dilemma, acting as a binder to hold eyeshadows and similar products together after being dropped. It considerably enhances the cool, dry feel of pressed powders and lipsticks.
Honeywell Asensa CL 300
INCI name: Ethylene/VA Copolymer
Applications: Lipsticks, gels
Comments: Asensa CL 300 is a strong gelling agent with special film forming characteristics. Its slight polarity makes it excellent at dispersing certain ingredients, and good for thickening lipsticks and mascaras.
