UV Protection in Skin Care

September 4, 2007

It’s a day at the beach for many anti-aging products. Increasingly popular in skin product formulas, SPFs are a necessity in daily anti-aging care.

UV Protection in Skin Care

It’s a day at the beach for many anti-aging products. Increasingly popular in skin product formulas, SPF’s are a necessity in daily anti-aging care.

LaToyah Burke
Associate Editor

 Elasta QP for men boasts UV protection.
It starts with just a few wrinkles around the eyes or a fine line around the lips, but over time, skin ages and loses its youthful appearance. While consumers realize that some of these factors are natural and unavoidable, many are seeking ways of reducing the visible signs of aging that are caused by the sun. Innovative products that incorporate sun protection into daily skin care regimens have found a niche in anti-aging. Skin care products are going the extra mile by delivering anti-aging benefits in addition to sun protection.

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, daily application of sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher—whether on its own or in a moisturizer—will prevent additional damage to skin. Also, the Foundation alerts consumers that daily use of a skin care product with sunscreen can actually reduce the existing number of actinic keratoses–abnormal skin eruptions, or precancers, that can lead to skin cancer.

Most daily moisturizers and many cosmetics now contain SPF 15+ sunscreen as well, providing easy, convenient ways to incorporate sun protection into a daily routine. Fortunately, there are several different types of sprays, wipes and sticks to choose from, depending upon consumer needs and personal preferences.

Health Concerns

According to The American Academy of Dermatology, the incidence of melanoma is on the rise. The increase was not attributed to one specific reason but was noticed in younger age groups (15-30) and older Americans (60 and up). The incidence of sunburns in U.S. adults 18 and older increased 2% from 1999-2004. According to current estimates, there will be more than 100,000 new cases of melanoma diagnosed in 2007. These startling statistics have provided a boost to skin care sales.

“The word is finally getting out and people are listening to the possible terrible skin problems that can arise if one does not protect the skin from the sun’s harmful rays,” explained Joey Chancis, founder of Joey New York. “Thanks to all types of media and doctor’s communication with their patients, the word is spreading and people are listening.”
 Most Olay products contain some sort of UV protection.
Joey New York offers professional-grade skin solutions and cosmetics. Quick Moisturizer Dry Skin Formula is an anti-aging multi-functional moisturizer for dry skin exclusively designed to quickly hydrate skin as it lifts up and smoothes the appearance of lines. The moisturizer also helps restore skin to its full beauty with SPF 30 sunscreen protection.
“We are seeing a big trend in products containing SPF due to increased awareness of the dangers of skin cancer along with the effects that the sun has on aging,” said Eric Admiraal, Olay brand manager. “Melanoma has become increasingly more common, so is it essential to apply a daily moisturizer with broad spectrum sun protection every day before going outside.”
Olay’s products are said to offer the protection consumers need, in addition to the results they require. Olay Regenerist Touch of Sun UV Defense Regenerating Lotion delivers three distinct products in one. It is a daily anti-aging facial moisturizer that also gives skin an even, sun-kissed glow simultaneously protecting skin from the sun, according to P&G.
The lotion packs the preventive power of broad spectrum SPF 15 for year-round use. It is a lightweight, oil-free, lotion that, according to Mary Johnson, Olay principal scientist, “provides a simple way to help shield skin from future UV damage without sacrificing a youthful, gentle, vibrant glow.”
“Melanoma (the deadliest form of skin cancer) kills one person in the U.S. every 65 minutes. It is essential to protect your skin from the sun in order to avoid its harmful effects,” noted Mr. Admiraal.
Olay Definity Deep Penetrating Foaming Moisturizer with SPF 15 reduces the appearance of skin discolorations such as dullness and brown spots by 78% vs. base moisturizer, according to the company. It penetrates up to 10 surface layers deep to hydrate and help reverse the appearance of past damage.
“Olay research suggests women want powerful anti-aging products that do more than just help reverse the appearance from past skin sins and the aging process,” said Ms. Johnson.
The Skin Cancer Foundation reports that more than one million skin cancers are diagnosed annually. And that’s not all. Sun and fun at the beach isn’t the only culprit of the damage. Now, research increasingly suggests there is a connection between the appearance of aging and UV exposure. Consumers must be aware of the effects of day-to-day damage. These changes can be seen as early as in one’s 20s, according to the foundation.
Researchers at Aveeno found that women 25-49 want a facial moisturizer that goes beyond basic moisturization. These women want their moisturizer to restore skin’s glow, texture, radiance and luminosity.
Aveeno’s Ultra Calming Daily Moisturizer with SPF 15 is clinically proven to visibly reduce redness and calm irritated skin with visible improvements in sensitive skin conditions. According to the company, women want naturally beautiful, radiant skin and the ability to go without makeup.
Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer with SPF 15 contains Feverfew PFE, a naturally calming ingredient related to chamomile. The flower calms redness and soothes irritation in dry and sensitive skin. It also reflects light to visibly smooth imperfections and enhance skin’s appearance.

New Protection Methods

The introduction of the two newest sunscreen ingredients, Anthelios SX which is manufactured by La Roche Posay and Helioplex manufactured by Neutrogena, have helped to provide longer lasting protection against harmful rays. The report asserts that Anthelios SX, approved by the FDA in 2006, retains 80% of its UVA protection and 90% of its UVB protection five hours after application.
 Garnier Nutritioniste firms, lifts and protects skin from the sun.
Helioplex technology, already found in Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Sunblock SPF 70 has been touted as the best sun protection available in the U.S. Helioplex stabilizes Avobenzone, a powerful sunscreen ingredient that normally loses its efficacy with continued exposure to sunlight. La Roche Posay Anthelios SX is a daily moisturizer with an SPF 15 broad spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreen containing Mexoryl. It is a light, non-greasy daily facial moisturizer that delivers 24hrs of hydration suitable for sensitive skin. It's fragrance and PABA-free. Mexoryl SX is an organic sun filter that is highly protective against short wave UVA rays.

Moisturizers and Irritation Relief

Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer with Helioplex defends skin against the signs of premature aging caused by the sun. It does double duty to provide skin with essential moisture and superior sun protection in a lightweight formula.  It contains an exclusive anti-oxidant complex with vitamin E and vitamin C to help fight free radicals and environmental skin damage.
Consumers today are finally accepting the fact that the healthy tan is anything but healthy. In fact, that tan is more of a sign of aging as consumers approach their 30’s and higher. “Advances in formulating technology enable us to deliver the necessary SPF protection for everyday with the feel of a daily moisturizer,” said Anthony D. Gonzalez, manager skin care global research and development, Avon.
Avon’s Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 and Moisturizing Night Cream is a hydrating duo that penetrates deep within the skin surface, to help skin radiate a healthy glow from within.
Hydra-Radiance works by giving the complexion everything it needs around the clock, utilizing Avon’s Daily Skin Allowance technology.  Multi-level moisture technology boosts micro-water channels in skin, going beyond the surface to deliver and seal in long-lasting moisture.
For consumers with sensitive skin who want to protect and moisturize, Eucerin Redness Relief is a clinically proven facial skin care system that provides immediate redness relief while improving the condition of visibly red skin over time. Eucerin Redness Relief Soothing Moisture Lotion SPF 15 provides intensive daily hydration. Its lightweight texture absorbs quickly and can be used alone or under makeup.
La Roche Posay’s Hydraphase UV is even more intense. It boasts long-lasting 24-hour hydration for dehydrated skin with an SPF of 30. It is made with glycerin and La Roche-Posay’s own thermal spring water to provide comfort with naturally soothing antioxidant properties. A combination of avobenzone, octisalate and octocrylene effectively helps defend against UV rays that may contribute to skin damage.

Age Prevention

Malibu Wellness introduced its EC Mode SPF 15 Plus Moisture Enhancer in a new, eco-friendly, refillable retail canister earlier this year. EC Mode SPF 15 Moisture Enhancer is a nutrient-rich, non-comedogenic soothing and hydrating formula that meets the FDA guidelines for broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.
 EC Mode SPF 15 from Malibu Wellness provides UV protection.
“Most people find it difficult to remember to apply SPF protection on a daily basis. By incorporating it into a product that might be used daily for its other benefits, the chances of SPF protection being applied increase,” said Tom Porter, founder and chief executive officer of Malibu Wellness, Malibu, California.
Thanks to on-going research, consumers are now aware of the aging effects of the sun. “SPF protection alone is not sufficient to protect skin from the aging effects of the sun, while the inclusion of broad-spectrum sun protection into skin care products (which are left on the skin during the day) is an excellent idea, if anti-aging and protection from skin disease is the goal, the addition of products containing the proper concentrations of active vitamins C and E is critical,” added Mr. Porter.
Osmotics, cosmeceutical and therapeutic skin care products combine patented delivery technologies with scientifically proven ingredients, according to company executives. Based on the notion that daily sun protection prevents premature aging, Age Prevention Protection Extreme SPF 40 is a sheer oil-free formula to create the ultimate age defense. Key ingredients include micronized zinc oxide, hyaluronic acid and galactoarabinan—a polysaccharide with moisturizing benefits proven to address the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
“Osmotics was one of the first cosmeceutical companies to incorporate SPF protection into every product that was formulated for daytime use,” said Francine Porter, founder and president of Osmotics, Denver, CO.

Multifunctional Protection

Age Prevention Illuminating Complex SPF 15 nourishes, protects and perfects. On the other hand, Age Prevention Balancing Complex SPF 15 is a 3-in-1 multifunctional product that fights against premature aging with high levels of vitamins A, C and E. Osmotics utilizes Parsol 1789 and micronized zinc oxide for UVA/UVB protection in its products.
“As a smaller, more specialized cosmeceutical brand, we are able to move quickly when new actives become available. This flexibility allows us to continue to provide advanced SPF products utilizing the most cutting edge ingredients,” Ms. Porter added.

Firming and Lifting Solutions

National Healthy Aging Month (Sept.) has been spurred by Jafra Cosmetics International Inc. Keeping in line with the spirit of Healthy Aging Month, the company launched Jafra Dynamics, a complete system for various skin conditions. The moisturizers all have SPF 15 and contain Intellishield, a technological breakthrough that behaves as a second skin. Intellishield is formulated with extracts from red seaweed found in the ocean combined with a unique polysaccharide. According to Pragna Chakravarti, chief scientific officer, vice president worldwide research & development, Jafra Cosmetics International, Inc., “Formulators today have  an array of technologically advanced concepts and ingredients to work with. Intellishield minimizes the damage caused by harmful environmental aggressors before they reach the skin.”

Garnier introduced Nutritioniste as an advanced skincare line merging knowledge from the sciences of dermatology and nutrition to deliver naturally-derived ingredients to the skin.

“There is a huge health and wellness trend right now. Women are demanding high performance products that speak to it,” says Cheryl Vitali, senior vice president of marketing, Maybelline New York-Garnier.  “To be a true player in skin care, you need breakthrough technology, specialization, and efficacious ingredients and technology that consumers can trust.”

Speaking to the anti-aging crowd, Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra Lift is a line of treatment products designed for women 40 and older. It has been touted as enhancing skin’s resilience, improving firmness and increasing skin’s moisture. Ultra Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Moisture Cream with SPF 15 offers immediate smoothing results for daytime hydration. Skin Renew is a line of treatment products for the 30 and older crowd. Skin Renew Daily Regenerating Moisture Lotion with SPF 15 reveals deeply radiant, smooth even-toned skin. Each of the products in the line contains a cleanser, toner, daytime moisturizer with SPF 15 and nighttime moisturizer.

Natural Sunscreens?

Collective Wellbeing takes healthy skin seriously. It offers naturally-based SPF products—Day Moisturizer with SPF and Lip Balm with SPF 15.

 “The ingredients, formulations, and the philosophy of Collective Wellbeing, combine to cater to the portion of the market that seeks a natural alternative to conventional SPF products. We recognize how important daily UV protection is and thus utilize natural and certified organic ingredients to combat exposure. Titanium and zinc oxides are the core of the Day Moisturizer with SPF and because they are so finely ground, each particle becomes a tiny reflector, which diffuses UV rays,” explained Jack Davies, co-founder of Collective Wellbeing, Irwindale, CA.

The fact that these products offer a natural alternative, doesn’t mean that consumers miss out on rich ingredients. “As consumer awareness of the importance of sun protection continues to increase, the market will respond in kind to the growing need for improved SPF protection in skincare products,” Mr. Davies pointed out.

In Collective Wellbeing’s Day Moisturizer with SPF, consumers will find ingredients such as jojoba to provide moisture and a blend of lemon, sweet orange, grapefruit, bergamot and tangerine oils for a pleasing scent.

A Bright Long-Term Outlook

This area of the market is poised for growth as sunscreen makes an impact on many facets of skin care products

“This market will continue to grow and flourish,” said Mr. Admiraal. “As dermatologists continue to tout the importance of daily SPF use and more people become aware of its importance, demand for these types of products will only continue to grow.”

“Sun protection in daily skin care is still in its infancy. In the future, we will have more efficient sunscreens with further improved aesthetics. Eventually everyone will use SPF as part of their daily routine, just like washing your face or combing your hair,” said Mr. Gonzalez.

Consumers can make informed decisions when it comes to sun protection products. A seal that determines effectiveness helps consumers pick products that are recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation.
To earn the Seal of Recommendation, a manufacturer must prove that its product sufficiently and safely “aids in the prevention of sun-induced damage to the skin.” The requirements include: A sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or greater; validation of the SPF number by testing on 20 people; acceptable test results for phototoxic reactions and contact irritation; substantiation for any claims that a sunscreen is water- or sweat-resistant.

Concerns about global warming and increased exposure to UV radiation ensures that this trend will only strengthen over time. Consumers can expect to see a growth in the market for products containing ingredients in conjunction with sun-protective skin care.

“Sun exposure that can cause damage can occur even on cloudy days. That said, taking the proactive steps to utilize a daily regimen with sun protection in it, can dramatically reduce the risk of sun damage,” said, Mr. Davies.

Armed with the availability of various products, consumers are becoming proactive when it comes to skin care products that contain SPF.