Color protection, volume, shine enhancement and moisture rank as top concerns with consumers.
Daily hair care regimens were once as simple as: wet hair, lather, rinse, repeat. Today, however, consumers’ choices extend beyond traditional shampoos and conditioners.
“The hair industry shows that consumers have become more and more aware of protecting the hair. Stylists are incredibly aware of maintaining the integrity of hair with new and innovative technology,” says Joico guest artist, Tabatha Coffey.
According to Information Resources, the shampoo segment enjoyed a growth of more than 3% to $1.4 billion for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 7, 2007. Sales include food, drug and mass merchandisers, but exclude Wal-Mart results. While its not a huge improvement, the activity is notable for such a mature segment. Some of these gains are due to recent launches in shampoos and conditioners that feature premium products targeting consumers looking for a more customized solution to their hair care needs.
Unilever has captured the top spot in the hair care market with the help of its product lines that continue to soar. Suave’s sales have recently surged despite previous forecasts that the brand would suffer at the expense of Dove. No doubt, the natural boom is bumping things up a bit. Suave captured the top spot in the shampoo category, as sales of its Naturals brand exceeded $40 million (see chart). L’Oréal’s Garnier Fructis had great success stealing the spotlight away from P&G’S Pantene a few years ago. Garnier Fructis Regular shampoo is in the second spot, while Tresemme’s regular shampoo takes third.
Clearly, Tresemme has momentum.“Tresemme posted double-digit sales growth and drove revenues for Alberto Culver. Tresemme sales exceeded $400 million in 2007, growing by more than 30% over last year,” said James Marino, president and chief executive officer, Alberto Culver, at a recent press conference.
Dove Regular is riding high at the No. 4 spot even though it’s still somewhat of a newcomer to hair care. Procter & Gamble’s Clairol Herbal Essences rounds out the top five with a performance that seems to have maintained customer loyalty. Clairol Herbal Essences Regular Shampoo comes in at No. 5 with more than $26 million in sales.
Meanwhile, sales of conditioners in food, drug and mass rose nearly 6% to $966 million, according to IRI. Garnier Fructis Sleek + Shine holds the top spot, just ahead of Suave Naturals. Conditioners are set to outpace shampoo sales as consumers are finding alternatives to stand alone shampoos by purchasing shampoos with added conditioner and after-shower products with conditioning properties, according to the Packaged Facts report, Hair Care Products in the U.S.
“All this suggests that the conditioner market may see two diverging trends: sales of traditional mass market brands may be relatively flat while more premium brands may see modest growth,” said Don Montouri, publisher of Packaged Facts.
Moisturizing The Situation
Stirring up rich, sudsy lather without sulfates—that’s how a growing number of consumers want their shampoos and conditioners to perform. Sulfates have been found to strip hair of essential moisture leaving it dull. Thermafuse’s Moisture shampoo and conditioner work independently or together to lavish nourishment on parched hair. Gentle on color but effective at cleansing and conditioning, the formula works together to improve condition of hair, leaving it full of vitality and shine.
“Consumers want the benefits of gentle, sulfate-free cleansing and conditioners that provide moisture and protection,” said Van Stamey, chief executive officer, Thermafuse, Kannapolis, NC.
“One of the biggest challenges consumers face is learning what products are right for them to help them improve the condition of their hair and achieve their desired style. To truly achieve the looks they want, consumers should look to the hair care manufacturers for guidance,” according to Heather Simmons, vice president marketing, creative & communications, Zotos.
Dove’s Cool Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner make it easier. The newest addition to the line is clearly labeled to let consumers know what formula is right for their hair. Formulated with a light and refreshing cucumber and green tea scent, the gentle shampoo cleans and moisturizes while the balanced conditioner leaves hair feeling soft without weighing it down.
Namasté Laboratories, Blue Island, IL, takes a systematic approach to hair care with its Organic Root Stimulator Hair Restoration System. “The system is for those consumers with sluggish hair growth or moderate hair loss who would like to add strength and moisture to the hair,” said Dr. Reginald Mitchell, director of education for Namaste Laboratories.
| Olive Oil products add moisture.
The Olive Oil Replenishing Pak fortifies and balances the moisture and protein content of the hair, resulting in stronger and healthier looking hair that is shiny and manageable. The deep penetrating conditioner, enriched with olive oil, silk proteins and sweet orange oil, conditions the hair and restores moisture, according to the company.
Joico offers a multitude of products that offer moisture benefits to the hair. Joico’s K-Pak is specifically designed for women with damaged hair from chemical applications.
“The entire K-Pak line delivers maximum reconstruction and protection for hair damaged by the environment, thermal styling and chemical services,” said Mary Freeth, senior director of marketing, Joico. “The increase in usage of chemical services has really fueled the growth of the K-Pak line in the last few years,” she added.
Joico Silk Result Shampoo and Conditioner deliver moisture and shine to even the hardest to manage hair. Joico’s Silk Result Shampoo and Conditioner incorporate a weightless, three-part system that includes real silk amino acids, silk silicone and a naturally derived silk surfactant. Together, this trio gently conditions, resurfaces and polishes both fine/normal and thick/coarse hair types.
MOP’s C-curl system is said to be perfect for consumers looking to revive tired curls, enhance wavy locks and knock out frizz. It is also formulated with a paraben-free preservative system. MOP combines an alcohol derivative with caprylyl glycol to soften and smooth hair. Caprylyl glycol is also a natural humectant, allowing it to improve combability of hair and enhance conditioning.
“We’re excited to add curl enhancing products to our C-system family,” said Robin Olson, marketing director for MOP. “C-curl provides a complete system that gently cleanses, conditions, defines and maintains curls.
“C-curl is packed with antioxidant vitamins A, C and E and the products contain color preserving UV protectors, plus, the shampoos are sulfate-free,” said Ms. Olson.
C-curl Curl Enhancing Shampoo is a sulfate-free formula that promotes longer lasting color. C-curl Curl Enhancing Conditioner is lightweight and helps detangle curls.
Charles Worthington London’s Results Frizz Free delivers smooth hair with a boost of shine and humidity control. The Moisture Seal collection brings back dry and damaged hair by boosting hair’s natural ability to absorb and retain moisture. “All products enhance hair’s natural wave, curl and texture,” said Stuart Straus, president, chief executive officer, Beautology Brands Chicago IL.
Consumers need a product that enables them to impart moisture and shine into their dry, lifeless hair. Moroccanoil, Montreal, CA combines ancient remedies with modern technology to leave hair soft, shiny, silky, smooth and manageable. It is a weightless finishing, styling and shine product. According to Moroccanoil, it softens thick, unmanageable hair, restores shine and softness to dull lifeless locks and helps brittle hair become more supple.
This rich, creamy conditioning treatment was designed to hydrate and repair damaged hair. With continued use, the mask revitalizes hair, restoring shine and manageability.
“Consumers want products that emphasize conditioning, breakage protection, versatility, ease-of-management and lightweight shine,” said Kelly Keith, brand manager, Motions, Melrose Park, IL.
| L'Oréal Paris' Vive Pro conditioning treatments.
The Sun Touched Shine collection promotes radiance. The Aussie Sun Touched Shine collection has a shampoo and conditioner system that leaves hair manageable when wet and radiant when dry.
“Women want their hair to glow with a shine that looks natural not artificial,” said Kenyatte Nelson, brand manager, Aussie North America, Cincinnati, OH. “We expect that women will continue to look for products that meet their specific hair care needs and are affordable in the context of all of the other products on the shelf.”
Going to great lengths to ensure shine, L’Oréal Paris introduced Vive Pro Nutri Gloss. For mirror shine and cashmere touch, as the company states, L’Oréal Paris expanded its professionally inspired Vive Pro hair care collection to include Vive Pro Nutri Gloss shampoo and conditioner.
The collection offers customized solutions for each of hair’s unique five dimensions, type, pattern, texture, abundance and diameter. The line is infused with an exclusive Pearl Protein Complex to impart shine and strength to the hair so that it will reflect more light and deliver nutrition to the hair fibers.
Vive Pro Treatments are a new approach to targeted, at-home hair care. The conditioning treatment is available in four distinct formulas to deep condition, nourish and replenish hair.
Vive Nutri Gloss Treatment enhances the shine and softness that are delivered via the Nutri Gloss shampoos and conditioners. Smooth Intense treatment is made with advanced Nutrileum Complex to instantly nourish and deeply condition hair to tame frizz and detangle, according to L’Oréal. Style & Body Infusing Treatment is infused with candelilla wax and styling polymer technology and delivers moisture and manageability. Color Vive Treatment is formulated with vitamin E and UV filters to help protect colored hair from harmful free radicals and environmental damages.
Products that emphasize healthy, shiny and stronger hair are good. But products that accomplish that and provide color protection are better.
“Since 78% of salon goers have color-treated hair, the importance of sulfate-free shampoos as a means of preserving, prolonging and maintaining color has risen,” said Van Stamey, chief executive officer, Thermafuse, Kannapolis, NC.
Consumers are open to new ideas in hair care. They are questioning what’s in the products they are putting on their heads. The basis for Garnier Fructis’ launch of Color Shield Shampoo and Conditioner was to help provide lasting color and brilliant shine to color-treated hair, according to Mario Aragon, associate vice president of marketing, Garnier Fructis Color Shield.
“Garnier Fructis Color Shield targets color-treated or highlighted hair with UV protectants to help provide lasting color and brilliant shine,” said Mr. Aragon.
| Pravana's Naturceutical Complex infuses hair with special proteins to increase diameter.
Each of the InnerEffect products contains an active color protection system, which prolongs color intensity and increases shine through a combination of UV filters and antioxidants.
“Consumers are definitely becoming more aware of their hair type and what works for them. They are also more ingredient savvy. They seek out the products that meet their specific hair care needs,” said Mr. Strauss.
Lightweight, paraben-free products are key and women who color or highlight their hair want a mild, non-stripping formula. They want performance and are willing to experiment with new brands to find exactly what works for them.
Pravana transcends traditional hair color care with its Color Ensure line of products.
Specifically formulated to maintain the vibrancy of color-treated hair for a longer period of time, Pravana’s exclusive “Naturceutical Complex” helps to strengthen and provide shine. Sulfate-free Color Ensure Shampoo gently but thoroughly cleanses without stripping color. Special UV filters protect hair against color-robbing ultraviolet rays. “Pravana’s objective was to take the best of nature and science to provide high-performance hair care,” said Steve Goddard, founder and chief executive officer, Pravana, Bell Canyon, CA.
Sales of natural and organic hair care products will reach $1.7 billion by 2010 according to Packaged Facts. Consumers continue to demonstrate a willingness to buy that conditioner and shampoo at $8 or $9 a bottle because of the perception of purity and quality that natural and organic brands convey.
Pravana’s Naturceutical Complex infuses hair with special proteins to actually increase the diameter of the hair. Sulfate-free Volumizing Shampoo thoroughly cleanses without stripping color or vital moisture. Special UV inhibitors block the harmful effects of the sun and further protect color.
“Consumers want sulfate-free shampoos that gently cleanse without stripping hair color while maintaining natural pH and conditioners that deliver gentle moisture,” said Mr. Goddard.
A super lightweight foam that instantly fortifies hair with added fullness, body and texture, Ultra Body Foam Volumizer features silk amino acids, human hair keratin amino acids and wheat protein to nourish and revitalize hair. Ultra Body Foam Volumizer is environmentally friendly and is completely water soluble, so it rinses from the hair with just water.
Aveda introduced its first hair care line created for men, Aveda Men Pure-Formance. “The aroma, feel and breakthrough performance of Aveda Men are outstanding,” said Dominique Coneil, president of Aveda. “We know environmentally-responsible men represent a significant segment of the market.”
The liquid pomade, shampoo and conditioner debuted in 95% post-consumer recycled packaging. The line uses high quality, sustainably sourced ingredients.
Even kids can get green and clean with products from So Cozy. So Cozy is formulated for kids that are good for the earth.
“Today more parents than ever are reading the labels on the personal care products they buy for their families,” according to Cozy Friedman, founder of Cozy’s Cuts for Kids and So Cozy products. So Cozy formulas are paraben-free and are housed in 100% recyclable packaging.
So Cozy’s focus is on “Formulas with natural ingredients that are not only friendly to kids but friendly to the environment,” said Ms. Friedman.
Tear-Free Shampoo in Very Berry is a low lather formula that is gentle on the eyes. It contains 11 herbal extracts including comfrey to protect and soothe the hair and scalp. Swimmer’s Shampoo in Green Apple is designed to remove chlorine and impurities from a child’s hair. It also contains orange extracts and aloe to prevent damage caused by frequent swimming. Conditioner in Sweet Strawberry is a gentle formula that eliminates frizz and vitamin E softens hair.
Kids will enjoy special treatments that are gentle and are designed to resolve their tender tress concerns. Pre-Detangling treatment in Lucky Lime removes tangles without causing damage. It is formulated with quinoa seed, nettle extract, panthenol and wheat protein to smooth, nourish and moisturize cuticles. Leave-in Conditioner in Fruity Delight is a spray that keeps hair smooth and moisturized. It contains hydrolyzed wheat protein and wheat starch to condition and protect hair.
For kids with curly hair, the Curly Q’s line of products aren’t heavy or greasy. They impart the right amount of moisture and curl definition. Curly Q’s, quality curly hair products are gently formulated for girls and boys with naturally curly, kinky-curly, wavy, and/or natural-afro hair. They are formulated with natural humectants, organic moisturizers and curl enhancers.
Also, Curls introduced an organic baby line. It’s A Curl, a line of certified organic and tear-free shampoo and conditioner is perfect for a baby’s curls. The line features Peek-a-boo Shampoo and Patty Cake Conditioner as well as Ring Around the Curlies Light Curl Lotion, a leave-in conditioning lotion.
Sales in the conditioning category are up due to innovations in color protection and specialized conditioning treatments. For example, Alberto-Culver is bolstering its Tresemme brand with Color Thrive shampoos and conditioners, which feature a color retention technology dubbed Fade Block. According to the company, the system helps users retain their hair color up to five times longer than ordinary shampoos.
At the same time, consumers are finding alternatives to stand alone conditioners by purchasing shampoos and after shower products with conditioning properties.
It’s no wonder then why companies are rolling out multi-benefit conditioners. Miss Jessie’s Rapid Recovery Treatment is an intense ultra-nourishing deep conditioning treatment that protects and smoothes hair of all textures. It’s said to be perfect for dyed, damaged or dried out hair. Rapid Recovery Treatment penetrates tresses with a rich and creamy formula. It adds strength, elasticity, length and shine.
Aussie Hair insurance Shampoo and Conditioner provides softening and conditioning benefits for shiny, healthy locks. Hair Insurance Tip Protector + Leave In Conditioner helps tame frizz and restores manageability. Hair Insurance Leave-In Conditioner Spray detangles hair while hydrating and smoothing tresses.
“Many women look for products that will keep their hair and scalp healthy while sporting drop-dead, easily changeable hairstyles,” said Robert Hudson, Motions director of global marketing.
Motions’ new Deep Penetrating Treatment (DPT) is a salon-tested, fast-acting intensive treatment that quickly penetrates the hair to repair split ends and strengthen the hair cuticle for extra shine. DPT’s ultra-thick formula moisturizes damaged hair, while reducing breakage and hair loss. It helps condition and protect hair, allowing more freedom to style and color. This advanced moisturizing therapy works with all hair textures such as natural, relaxed, blown straight, or curly. DPT is sure to give hair that soft, healthy shine away from the salon, according to the company.
“These new Motions at Home Salon Care products allow women to maintain their salon looks and get indulging treatments in the comfort and convenience of their home. Women need products that enable them to deep condition their hair at home between salon visits,” added Mr. Hudson.
The excitement over prestige brands is causing value and private label brands to lose their footing. For example, P&G sold Pert Plus and discontinued its Daily Defense and Daily Renewal brands. Also, Unilever’s Salon Selectives seems to have vanished from the shelves of major chains, according to Packaged Facts.
“We will see more professional salon hair care lines legitimately enter the food, drug and mass market which will affect the entire segment,” said Mr. Strauss.
Having a presence in the premium segment of the mass market has many advantages—some consumers may be taking a step down from professional salon brands to save money, while value consumers may purchase premium items as a small treat, forgoing bigger splurges. The hair care industry will continue to follow the global marketing trend of green ingredients and packaging. The challenge the market must overcome is that consumers are willing to buy organic or natural based products but still want the same type of performance at a similar price.
Looking for a new ingredient for your new hair care line? Here's a list of them.
Alban Muller International
INCI: Depending on references (each extract has an INCI name)
Applications: Botamicals are compatible with a high number of preservatives, all kinds of emulsifiers and fragrances.
Use levels: 2-10%
Comments: Botamicals are 100% natural and preservative-free plant extracts, obtained with natural solvents only, and stabilized in plant origin glycerin. There are 50 Botamicals, including orange, pineapple, green and white tea, chamomile, lavender, ginseng and mallow.
INCI: Depending on references (each extract has an INCI name).
Applications: Natamilks provide cosmetic products with their restructuring, softening and film-forming properties. They are ideal to formulate hair care products. Each Natamilk is an original formulation with specific properties. They can be used for all product ranges, whatever their requirements regarding natural formulations.
Use levels: 1-20%
Comments: Natamilks are plant-based milks containing the water- and oil-soluble principles of a plant into a soft, fluid texture. The range includes: acacia, aloe vera, apricot, bamboo, chestnut, cotton, green tea, honey, iris, noni, oat, peach, red clover and shea.
INCI: Depending on references (each extract has an INCI name)
Applications: Phytolaits are perfect for the formulation of hair care products. They are compatible with numerous preservatives, all kinds of synthetic or natural emulsifiers and all kinds of perfumes.
Use levels: 1-20%
Comments: Phytolaits combine the water and oil-soluble principles of a plant. They are formulated in an emulsion stabilized with a natural polysaccharide. The Phytolait range includes apricot, cocoa, coconut, black locust, corn poppy, frangipani, blond pea, oat, rice, almond and aloe vera.
Arch Personal Care
South Plainfield, NJ
INCI: Sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth protein
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner, treatment (hair), leave-in, styling, bodywash, cleanser, toner
Use levels: 5-20% active at use dilution
Comments: Amaranth S is a natural and organic-based foaming peptide which combines high performance and functionality. It is a mild foam booster and is compatible with sebum without losing its foaming properties. Amaranth S is nonionic and is a versatile ingredient allowing it to be used in conjunction with cationic ingredients for conditioning cleansing gel.
Honeybee Moisture Complex
INCI: Betaine and hydroxypropyltrimoniuem honey
Applications: Hair products, hair treatments, skin moisturizers
Use levels: 1-5% active
Comments: Honeybee Moisture Complex offers the combined benefits of both the quaternized honey moiety and the betaine moiety. Ideal for leave-on and rinse-off compositions that.
High Point, NC
Ciba Tinovis ADE
INCI: Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) trideceth-6
Applications: Skin care, sun care and hair care, makeup
Use levels: 0.02-1.0%
Comments: Cost efficient thickener with excellent pick up and sensory properties.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Tel: +49 (0)30 85 10 26 0
Yeast Complex B
INCI: Water (and) alcohol (and) faex (yeast) extract (and) thiamin HCI (and) pyridoxine HCI
Applications: For scalps with strong secretion of sebum (greasy hair and dandruff).
Use levels: 0.5%
Comments: Yeast Complex B contains vitamin B1 and B2 and reduces sebum production by multiple interactions. Yeast and alcohol contained are certified organic.
INCI: PEG/PPG-120/10 trimethylpropane trioleate (and) laureth-2
Applications: Thickening, surfactant-based formulations.
Use levels: 0.5-3%
Comments: Arlypon TT is a high performance thickening agent that combines associative and micellar thickener parts to ensure optimum viscosity for surfactant systems that present a thickening challenge. Difficult systems, such as SLES-reduced, sulfate-free, betaine-free, low active matter, or even blends of specific mild surfactants can easily be thickened by Arlypon TT. This Turbo Thickener is pumpable, cold processable, preservative-free and cost efficient.
Description: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Applications: Conditioning, thickening and stabilizing for skin and hair care
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Cosmedia CTH(E) is a cationic liquid dispersion polymer that facilitates the preparation of a wide range of formulas. Supplied as an easy to use liquid, Cosmedia CTH(E) can be used in either cold or hot process manufacturing to formulate hair care, body care, and sun care products. This product does not require any neutralization and provides excellent emulsifying and stabilizing capabilities. Especially for low pH–applications like self tanners, AHA concepts and hair conditioners.
INCI: PEG-4 distearyl ether (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and)
distearyl ether (and) dicaprylyl ether
Applications: Conditioning performance shampoos and body washes.
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Lamesoft Care is a high performance wax dispersion that is suited for surfactant-based skin and hair care applications. Its micronized lipid system offers skin and hair conditioning properties. Particular strong effects are achieved in combination with cationic polymers. The product is a white, free-flowing wax dispersion, easy to handle and easy to process. Lamesoft Care fits into marketing concepts where a white, fine marbleized appearance is desired. Due to its ether based lipids, Lamesoft Care can be used in a wide pH-range between 4-11 and therefore in all kinds of rinse off formulations such as shower gels, shampoos, female hygiene, hair colors and specific ethnic hair care treatments.
International Specialty Products
INCI: Behenyl alcohol (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) hydroxyethyl cetearamidopropyldimonium chloride
Applications: Ethnic formulations; treamtents for coarse, textured hair; conditioning mousses; leave-on/rinse off conditioners; anti-frizz styling crèmes; conditioning/ styling cream gels; scalp moisturization; anti-dandruff applications.
Use levels: up to 10%
Comments: ProLipid 161 is composed of a hydrophobic alkyl quat in an optimized fatty alcohol blend that delivers wet and dry conditioning properties to hair. It can be used as the main lamellar gel structuring agent or as a conditioner. It is substantive to hair and offers a soft, silky, lubricious after-feel, which is neither greasy nor waxy. Based on a clinical evaluation, ProLipid 161 delivers moisture to skin from rinse-off formulas.
INCI: Polyquaternium 55
Applications: Styling lotions, mousses, gels, leave-in conditioning/styling products, shampoos and conditioners
Use levels: 0.3-1.0%
Comments: Styleze W-20 is a film-forming polyquaternium that offers a high degree of humidity resistance, excellent styling attributes, thermal protection along with superior conditioning properties that is achievable from rinse-off products. In finished products, it generates stable long lasting creamy dense foams with or without other surfactants for luxurious mousses; helps structure foam in mousses, shampoos, and facial/body cleansers; and provides cushioned feel to emulsions while imparting a soft, velvety end-feel. Can be cold-processed into lotions, mousses, gels, leave-in conditioning/styling products, shampoos, and conditioners. Good compatibility with surfactants.
INCI: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer
Applications: Clear gels, spray gels, suspended gels, cream gels, hair color applications, anti-frizz/shine/smoothing creams.
Use levels: 1.0-2.5%
Comments: UltraThix P-100 is a versatile, patented rheology modifier designed to impart multifunctional benefits for both hair and skin care applications based on its combined molecular components. In two-part color systems, UltraThix P-100 could be added to either the colorant phase, since it can tolerate high pH environments, or to the developer phase, since it passes the 24-hour Peroxide Boil Test. When present in the developer phase (pH = 3.6), the result, when combined with the colorant, is a thick clear gel (11,500 cps; pH = 9.9).
INCI: Isododecane, bis vinyl dimethicone/ dimethicone copolymer
Applications: For use in light conditioning products and hair treatment systems that require a soft, volatile velvety feel without buildup.
Use levels: 3-6.00%
Comments: The Jeesilc PS-VHLV will offer soft conditioning attributes to the hair, high gloss properties without buildup and good substantivity that is easily removed with traditional cleansing systems.
INCI: Phenyltrimethicone, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer.
Applications: For use in high gloss hair serums and treatment lotions with light conditioning properties for systems that require a soft, volatile velvety feel without buildup.
Use levels: 3.00-6.00%
Comments: The Jeesilc PS-PLTV will offer soft conditioning attributes to the hair while delivering a high gloss profile.
INCI: Dimethicone, bis vinyl dimethicone/ dimethicone copolymer
Applications: For use in medium to high conditioning products and hair treatment systems that require high gloss with a substantive soft feel for the hair.
Use levels: 2.00-4.00%
Comments: Jeesilc PS-DMLV will provide unique gloss and conditioning attributes to the hair that is easily removed with standard cleansing products.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
INCI: Phytosteryl macadamiate
Applications: An ideal unique treatment product for hair care.
Use levels: 1-10%
Comments: Excellent moisturizing ability, moist, supple and smooth to hair and gives an excellent gloss and moist appearance.
INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 eicosanedioate/ tetradecanedioate esters (and) glycerin.
Applications: An excellent emollient for water-based formulas for styling gels.
Use levels: 1-10%
Comments: Supple and smooth feeling for hair care. Reduces the sticky feeling of glycerin and has water-holding and water barrier properties on skin and hair.
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 (and) stearate (and) steareth-20 (and) ceteareth-20.
Applications: A unique treatment product ideal for hair care conditioners and straighteners
Use levels: 3-6%
Comments: Lipomulse Luxe imparts an elegant softness to the personal care product. The emulsions have a very fine texture with a luxurious shiny appearance.
University Park, IL
INCI: Disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate
Applications: Mild shampoos, body washes, liquid soaps, wipes, baby products, very mild skin cleansers, hospital cleansers, acne treatments
Use levels: 5-30%
Comments: Exceptionally mild, non-traditional anionic that exhibits excellent foam stability. Significantly milder than SLES, sodium cocoyl glutamate and alkyl polyglucoside. It can be used as the only surfactant in applications where ultra-mildness is needed or in combination with alkyl ether sulfates to impart a mollifying effect on eye irritation potential.
INCI: Cetyl babassuate
Applications: Creams and lotions, moisturizers for dry skin, spa and massage products, color cosmetics
Use levels: 2-25%
Comments: 100% vegetable-derived emollient and solvent made from organically certified babassu oil. Excellent lubricant. Provides a lubricious, silky and smooth feel to leave-on skin care formulations.
Mackadet SP 50
INCI: Cetyl babassuate
Applications: Shampoos, liquid hand soaps, bodywashes
Use levels: 5-30%
Comments: It is a clear blend of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and cocamide MIPA used to boost foam and viscosity response in existing formulas or as the sole secondary surfactant system of a formulation.
Momentive Performance Materials
INCI: Water (and) silica dimethicone silylate (and) TEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate (and) PEG/PPG-5/3 trisiloxane
Applications: Pump spray, spritz, styling gel, styling mousse, frizz smoothing cream and lotion, styling paste, glaze, shampoo
Use levels: 5% - 30%
Comments: Silsoft style silicone is an excellent candidate to consider for use in products developed to provide long lasting, well-defined curls with flexible natural feel in high humidity conditions. It spreads rapidly with low tack and a quick dry time.
INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) silicone quaternium-18
Applications: Rinse off conditioners, leave-on conditioners, hair serum, styling gel, pomade, pre-treatments for coloring, bleaching or perming.
Use levels: 1-6%
Comments: Silsoft Care blend is a solution of a proprietary silicone quat that has been optimized to provide unique conditioning properties to hair. An excellent candidate for leave-in formulations in which feel and manageability are important. It acts as a volatile carrier, first spreading the silicone quat uniformly across the hair surface, and then volatilizing to leave a protective film of silicone. This film provides excellent wet and dry combing properties at low silicone quat active levels, while it does not weigh down the hair. It can help reduce damage caused by mechanical or chemical hair treatments.
INCI: Water (and) silicone quaternium-18 (and) trideceth-6 (and) trideceth-12
Applications: Shampoo, developer solution for hair dyeing, ethnic hair care, pre-treatment for hair dyeing, leave-in conditioner, rinse-off conditioners
Use levels: 1-6%
Comments: Silsoft Q cationic amino silicone terpolymer is a non-yellowing, 20% active, microemulsion of a patented quaternized silicone terpolymer (silicone quat) that delivers a unique dry softness and volume to hair. The structure of the silicone quat has been optimized to delivery multi-functional benefits in hair care for conditioning, deposition and color retention that can leave hair feeling soft, light, clean and natural. It is an excellent candidate for the ethnic hair care market due to its strong conditioning and unique softening performance benefits and has demonstrated unique sensory attributes in shower and bath products.
Noveon Consumer Specialties,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Fixate Superhold Polymer
INCI: Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer
Applications: Hair gels, mousses, pump sprays, curl enhancing crèmes, styling waxes, pastes, putties, puddings, glues
Use levels: 1.0-4.0 wt% total solids
Comments: Provides stiff hold and superior humidity resistance. This patent-pending polymer enables the creation of novel, cost-effective, low-to-high viscosity styling products with high clarity, excellent shine on hair, strong resistance to flaking and superior texture and aesthetics. Fixate Superhold polymer is a branched acrylate copolymer of C1-4 alkyl(meth)acrylate, (meth)acrylic acid and a proprietary amphiphilic package that contains silicone side chains and associative hydrophobic chains. Soft, hydrophobic domains randomly combined with hard, hydrophilic domains form the backbone of this polymer, which offers an optimized balance of properties.
Carbopol Aqua CC Polymer
INCI: Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer
Applications: Low pH facial/body treatments, scrubs, moisturizers, creams and lotions with high levels of cosmetic acids, hair conditioner products, clear conditioning shampoos, bath gels and cleansers, pearlescent shampoos and cleansers, antiperspirants and deodorants, suncare products.
Use levels: Application dependent
Comments: Offers formulators cationic compatibility, smooth flow, shear thinning rheology, suspension capabilities and high clarity in applications below pH 6.0. Surprisingly effective in thickening aqueous systems containing cationic ingredients (e.g., quaternary ammonium compounds and amines), cationic conditioning agents, softeners, surfactants and other similar ingredients.
Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer
INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Applications: Hair styling gels, hand and body lotions, moisturizing gels, sunscreen lotions, hand sanitizers, ethnic hair lotions
Use levels: 0.2-1.0%
Comments: A benchmark polymer for enhanced formulation properties, ease of use and polymer efficiency. It is a hydrophobically modified, crosslinked polyacrylate polymer designed to efficiently impart thickening, stabilization and suspension to personal care formulations while allowing a wide range of flow properties. The optimized performance properties make it an extremely versatile formulation ingredient across a broad spectrum of applications.
INCI: Isosteareth-200 linoleate
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners and bath gels.
Use levels: 3-5%
Comments: Water soluble, vegetable derived emollient and moisturizer derived from linoleic acid.
Description: Isosteareth-200 palmitate
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners and bath gels
Use levels: 3-5%
Comments: Water soluble, vegetable derived emollient and moisturizer.
Description: Isostearyl linoleate
Applications: Hair conditioners and moisturizers
Use levels: 2-6%
Comments: Non-oily emollient derived from linoleic acid.
INCI: Lauryl lactyl lactate
Applications: Shampoos, body washes, liquid soaps, bubble baths, facial cleansers, soap bars, creams/lotions, makeup, hair conditioners, and solid and anhydrous antiperspirants.
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Neo Actipone Organic Rooibos
INCI: Maltodextrin, aspalathus linearis leaf extract
Applications: For hair and skin cosmetics.
Use levels: 0.1-2%
Comments: Has shown hair color protection properties and is also an IL-1· inhibitor thus providing potent anti-irritant properties useful for scalp soothing. Strong anti-oxidant properties and works as an MMP-1 inhibitor. Neo Actipone Organic Rooibos can therefore be seen as natural and organic protective for hair and skin.
INCI: Glycerin, triticum vulgare (wheat) gluten, water (aqua)
Applications: Hair and skin cosmetics
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: A native wheat protein that significantly protects colored hair from color loss. Helps where the hair needs treatment by binding to damaged hair areas, particularly tip areas and lifted cuticle scales.