Features

Holistic Beauty

February 5, 2008

Consumers are becoming a lot more fussy about the products they put on their skin and hair, and that’s expanding demand for mineral makeup and a host of other alternative formulations.

Holistic Beauty



Consumers are becoming a lot more fussy about the products they put on their skin and hair, and that’s expanding demand for mineral makeup and a host of other alternative formulations.



By Imogen Matthews
Consultant to In-Cosmetics



Consumers use cosmetics and toiletries as much for well-being as for beauty benefits and are exploring new product concepts that promise to beautify from within. Nutricosmetics is a relatively new category that has emerged from the intersection of nutrition and beauty.
 
“With the West’s expanding acceptance of holistic treatments, the growth of this trend signifies another phase in the quest for youthful looks despite the inevitability of aging,” explained Carrie Mellage, director, consumer products, Kline & Company.
   
According to Diana Dodson, senior industry analyst for cosmetics and toiletries, Euromonitor International, consumers are expecting better results than can be achieved through the use of topical beauty products alone.
   
“Consumers understand the links between nutrition, health/wellbeing and beauty and I think they are increasingly realizing that the foundation of any beauty regime should be good nutrition,” she maintains.
   
Kline & Company puts the global nutricosmetics market at $1.5 billion compared to $168 billion for the total cosmetics and toiletries industry. However, the development of the category has not been the same throughout the world. Japan and Europe lead the way, while U.S. consumers’ innate skepticism has meant that nutricosmetic sales have been slow to take off in the States. Mintel’s head of cosmetics research, Nica Lewis, agrees that Japan is the most developed market for nutricosmetics, but points out that the market has been less well received in France.
   
“Several factors have been holding back the market, including indifference, skepticism, perception that consumers don’t need vitamins and limited distribution,” said Ms. Lewis. “The problem with oral supplements is that people take them on faith as it is hard to see that they are working. With exfoliators and serums, they are more likely to see a result.”

Growth in Asia



Consumers in the Asia Pacific region, and especially Japan, have long been aware of the role that food, drinks and dietary supplements, especially nutritive tonics, play in health, wellness and beauty.
   
“Their receptiveness to this concept has opened the way for an innovative nutricosmetics market crowded with products so novel that they struggle to find credibility beyond Japan,” said Ms. Dodson.
   
Examples include Nissin Food Products collagen-enriched soup, Shiseido’s pureWhite skin whitening drink and Fuwarinka edible fragrance candy that claims to release a vanilla scent via the sweat glands. But when Japanese confectioner Eiwa brought collagen-filled marshmallows to the UK in 2006, they did receive considerable media attention, but consumers were less than impressed.
   
An area where the nutricosmetics concept may gain ground is in the area of beauty foods, particularly in dairy. This is the focus of some of the big food multinationals. For example, French dairy brand Danone has launched a vitamin-fortified yogurt called Danone Essensis, which is to be used together with a regular skin care regime to help look after the skin from within. Initially, the brand launched in the cosmetics department of Printemps before rolling out to supermarkets.
   
“Yogurt has many known health benefits, but now it is continuing to gain ground for its beauty benefits,” explains Mintel’s Nica Lewis. “The active live cultures are responsible for most of the benefits and eating yogurt has been shown to support digestive health, improving immune system functioning and preventing imbalances in the body’s yeast levels. More recently, yogurt has also been linked to promoting healthy skin and hair.”
   
The partnering of Coca-Cola and L’Oréal to produce a tea-based skin care drink called Lumaé may be another appropriate route into the nutricosmetics market. Due to debut in 2008, Lumaé may first be distributed in upscale cosmetic retailers, including Saks Fifth Avenue rather than the usual soft drinks channels.
   
GABA is an ingredient used extensively in skin care products for its line-reducing capabilities and is also finding its way into beauty drinks. Coco-Cola has launched Aquarius Sharp Charge drink in Japan, which contains GABA. Mintel has also noted GABA used as a functional food ingredient in its Cosmetics Research GNPD. These include a nutritional supplement positioned for stress relief and relaxation called GABA Lina S from Dai Nippon Ink, and Ezaki Glico’s GABA Super Bitter chocolates. Ms. Lewis insists that GABA’s high familiarity in Japan is similar to how Omega 3 is perceived in the West. “Given burgeoning development in beauty foods and cosmeceuticals, there’s opportunity for GABA to tap into well-being and relaxation, not just its anti-wrinkle claims,” she said.
   
The herb Glycyrrihiza, commonly known as licorice, is appearing more frequently in skin care products, according to Mintel, with most new product launches seen in the U.S., France and Japan. Licorice has been used as a lightening and smoothing ingredient in skin care since the 1990s when Japanese scientists isolated certain compounds. Mintel has also identified ginger as a key ingredient in radiance and anti-cellulite products, used mainly for its warming effect to soothe and relax.
   
Looking to the future, new beauty food formats will include cereals, fruit juices and confectionary, according to the Euromonitor analyst.
   
“Nutricosmetics are expected to become more sophisticated in their market positioning, targeting a wider range of select consumer groups,” explained Ms. Dodson. “Besides segmenting the market by age and gender, ethnic-specific products, catering to the unique qualities of skin and hair of different ethnic groups, could also be an area for development.”
   
However, there is the threat of regulation that could restrict manufacturers in the beauty claims they can make, similar to the way health claims are controlled. Ms. Dodson insists that nutricosmetics must find their way out of the health food sector and into mainstream supermarkets if they are to have a wider retail platform.
blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Kitchen Counter Cosmetics

    Kitchen Counter Cosmetics

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    LOLI box marks the convergence of natural and organic ingredients, subscription service and DIY cosmetic chemistry.

  • What’s New at La Prairie?

    What’s New at La Prairie?

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||April 25, 2016
    VP of marketing shares the latest buzz with Happi.

  • Mapping Out Multicultural Beauty

    Mapping Out Multicultural Beauty

    April 25, 2016
    Agnieszka Saintemarie of Kline Group about current trends and challenges in multicultural beauty.

  • Bite Now

    Bite Now

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Is the time finally right for beauty-from-within to move into the mainstream?

  • Boxed Out?

    Boxed Out?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||May 2, 2016
    Salon sales outpace mass-market results in the highly competitive, highly fashionable and yes, highly-colorful hair color cat

  • That’s Awesome!

    That’s Awesome!

    May 2, 2016
    Extracts & Ingredients highlights the newest ideas in efficacious oils for the personal care market.

  • Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||May 2, 2016
    The silicone maker had a good 2015 and expects the gains to continue in 2016, driven, in part, by success in the Americas and

  • I Want It All

    I Want It All

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Skin care moves beyond the basics with pampering formulations with unique components and novel functions.

  • Erasing the Signs of Aging

    Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely, David Boudier, Sylvain Mazalrey, Jenny Laumonier, Isabelle Cruz, Gu00e9raldine Bon, Karine Perrinet, Bu00e9ranger Tassy, Brigitte Closs, Silab R&D, Saint-Viance, France||May 2, 2016
    Silab researchers explain how by acting on the endogenous hyaluronic acid pathway.

  • The Zika Threat

    The Zika Threat

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Concerns are spreading about transmission of this mosquito-borne disease.

  • The New Spot For Acne Care

    The New Spot For Acne Care

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    Acne Treatment Research Center opens in Morristown, NJ.

  • The Essence of Individuality

    The Essence of Individuality

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Fragrance sales are fueled by unique facets.

  • The Scalp Microbiome

    The Scalp Microbiome

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||April 1, 2016
    A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders.

  • Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Established brands and start-ups address the needs of multi-cultural beauty consumers.

  • Who Makes That?

    Who Makes That?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    From concept and formulation to testing and filling, today’s contract manufacturers perform a range of services for marketers

  • Inspiring the Next Generation Of Personal Care Products

    Inspiring the Next Generation Of Personal Care Products

    March 1, 2016
    In-Cosmetics 2016 returns to Paris next month, April 12-14, 2016.

  • Playing Doctor

    Playing Doctor

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2016
    The OTC aisle offers a wide array of no-prescription-needed treatments.

  • Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shyam Gupta, Ph.D., John Stanek and Melinda Wochner, Bioderm Research and CoValence Laboratories, Inc.||March 1, 2016
    The enemy, it seems, is all around us. Researchers explain how to alleviate damage caused by a variety of villains.

  • Makeup Magic

    Makeup Magic

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 1, 2016
    Sales get a lift from novel ingredients and endorsements from the likes of Gwen Stefani.

  • Feel the Burn?

    Feel the Burn?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    Sun care product sales rise, but more must be done to make sure compliance rates grow.

  • New Sun Care Ingredients

    March 1, 2016
    Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care that have been introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. For information regarding any of the products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

  • Cleaning Up

    Cleaning Up

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    At the American Cleaning Institute’s 90th Annual Meeting & Industry Convention attendees work on regulatory issues and hammer out business deals.

  • Supply-Side Solutions

    Supply-Side Solutions

    Tom Branna , Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    Executives from leading detergent industry suppliers sat down with Happi during the recent annual meeting of the American Cleaning Institute to discuss the problems, products and answers that are transforming the cleaning space.

  • Cleaning Industry Heads to Singapore

    Cleaning Industry Heads to Singapore

    March 1, 2016
    The World Conference on Fabric and Home Care, sponsored by the American Oil Chemists Society, will be held Oct. 4-7 in Singapore.

  • Electric Slide

    Electric Slide

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    Skin care devices bring anti-aging to the next level

  • Crowning Glory

    Crowning Glory

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    Celebrity stylists and experts from leading hair care brands talk about the ingredients and formats driving the styling sector.

  • Innovation On Display

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    P&G Beauty Digital Studio showcases new products for 2016

  • Testing for Sustainable Preservatives

    Adam P. Byrne, William Michael Hart-Cooper, Kaj Johnson, Larry H. Stanker, Dominic W. S. Wong, William J. Orts||January 4, 2016
    A rapid, inexpensive and qualitative protocol for determining microbial growth inhibition.