A New Direction in Sun Protection

February 29, 2008

Sun care marketers roll out an array of UV solutions.

A New Direction in Sun Protection

Sun care marketers roll out an array of UV solutions.

LaToyah Burke
Associate Editor

Driven by big gains in private label, sales of sunscreen in the U.S. rose nearly 13% to almost $1.15 billion (retail) for the year ended Dec. 31, 2007, according to Euromonitor International. Sales are projected to reach $1.25 billion by 2012. Global sun care sales approached $7 billion last year, and are expected to reach nearly $9 billion by 2012. Three manufacturers dominate the U.S. market but small brands and private labels continue to gain share, according to Mintel, a market research company. Schering-Plough, Playtex and Johnson & Johnson have each significantly grown sales, and hold a combined 64.7% market share in 2007. Other gains went to small brands, such as Bull Frog and Blue Lizard, and the rest to private labels. In fact, sales of private label sunscreen in food, drug and mass merchandisers (excluding Wal-Mart) soared more than 34% last year, according to IRI.

Top 10 Brands

Private Label  $62,672,840
Coppertone    $57,427,020
Coppertone Sport   $57,190,400
Banana Boat   $38,767,340
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer   $34,740,380
Hawaiian Tropic   $32,405,600
Banana Boat Sport    $30,378,390
Banana Boat Ultra Mist   $22,716,500
Coppertone Water Babies   $20,679,480
Aveeno Active Naturals   $16,188,090

Top 10 Vendors

Schering-Plough   $156,392,800
Playtex   $115,496,000
Neutrogena   $101,541,900
Private Label   $66,666,440
Tanning Research Labs   $47,515,450
L’Oréal  $24,659,030
Johnson & Johnson   $18,917,130
Solar Cosmetics Lab   $9,327,119
Chattem Inc.   $7,267,165
European Tanning System  $6,750,514

Playtex’s Banana Boat Sport Performance offers long lasting waterproof and sweatproof protection along with AvoTriplex, which lasts longer in the sun without breaking down, according to the company. Sport Performance is available in three formulas. Sport Performance Faces SPF 30 is oil and fragrance-free, helps prevent premature aging and is hypoallergenic. Sport Performance Lotions SPF 15, 30, 50 are fragrance free and are also available in Dri-Blok Lotion. Sport Performance Dri Block Continuous spray sunblock SPF 30 is a light, no-slip dry lotion spray that dries in seconds thus making it ideal for intense sports.

Last year, Euromonitor reported that sun care companies could cash in by offering easy to use products that do double duty to streamline a consumer’s routine. Banana Boat has done just that. The company has introduced UltraMist Continuous Spray Sunblock across each of its sun care lines. UltraMist is a convenient rub-free formula that dispenses at any angle for a clear continuous spray.

“Banana Boat UltraMist Dri Blok Spray SPF 30 gives consumers the dry, almost-like-you’re-not-wearing-a-sunscreen feeling that they have come to expect from Dri Blok lotion but in a convenient spray format,” explained Barbara Donovan, senior manager, skin care research and development, Energizer personal care.

The company also introduced Aloe After Sun Cleansing Wipes, which instantly remove sunscreen, sweat and sand. The wipes are thick and packed with aloe vera and vitamin E to soothe and refresh skin. What’s more, the wipes are housed in a resealable package for on-the-go use.
The 2008 Coppertone lineup boasts two SPF 70+ products, Ultraguard and Sport, to provide a broader range of sunscreen options. Both formulas provide photostable protection against both UVA and UVB rays. The products also contain a special antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals.
“We are happy to be able to provide innovation by extending our existing line while continuing to meet consumer demand,” said Jennifer Samolewicz, media, Coppertone, Schering Plough Corporation.

A Sporty Formula for the Face

Also new from Coppertone is Sport Faces, the first lotion in the sport range designed for the face. It provides protection (SPF 70+) without running into the eyes at high activity levels. For sport consumers who prefer lotion, the brand will also introduce Coppertone Sport QuickCover Lotion Spray in SPF 30. It is a continuous lotion spray that shows where it goes for easy, broad-spectrum protection.
Keeping up in the SPF race is Johnson & Johnson, which recently rolled out Aveeno Continuous Sun Care with SPF 70. The formula includes an Active Photobarrier Complex, that’s specifically engineered to deliver very high, very broad and photostable UV protection combined with natural soy proteins and vitamins A, C and E to help protect skin from environmental damage.
“At Aveeno, we continue to develop breakthrough formulations to help protect skin against sun and environmental damage,” explained Rick Ely, product director of Aveeno Sun.
Aveeno Continuous Protection Sunblock Lotion for Face SPF 70 won’t clog pores. In fact, the dry-touch formula absorbs quickly into skin and is said to be good for sensitive skin.
“In the recreational sun care market, we are seeing products with higher sun protection levels, advanced sun protection technologies and the addition of ingredients that offer added skin care benefits,” said Mr. Ely.

Protection a Priority

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration proposed a new regulation in August that sets standards for formulating, testing and labeling over-the-counter sunscreen drug products with UVA and UVB protection.
“Consumers are definitely concerned about the effects of UV exposure including the effect it can have on aging. They are becoming more aware of the damage the sun can cause and in turn, are increasing their sun care use,” said Beth St. Raymond, director of sun care, Hawaiian Tropic.
The new sunscreen monograph provides a ratings system for UVA sunscreen products on a scale of one to four stars. One star  represents low UVA protection, two stars represent medium protection, three stars represent high protection, and four stars represent the highest UVA protection available in an over-the-counter sunscreen product. If a sunscreen product does not provide at least a low level (one star) of protection, the FDA is proposing that the product bear a “no UVA protection” marking near the SPF value.
Sounds great, doesn’t it? For the sun care consumer, this is a win-win situation, on the other hand, formulators are scratching their heads to come up with a product that will achieve a high rating. The problem, according to Nadim Shaath, president, Alpha Research and Development Ltd. and Happi columnist, is finding the right ingredient.
“The FDA has not allowed new ingredients to be introduced in the US, with the exception of avobenzone in 1996, zinc oxide in 1998, and the recently introduced Mexoryl SX, which is approved only in cosmetic formulations, exclusive to L’Oréal,” explained Dr. Shaath.
For its part, L’Oréal is getting ready to roll out Solar Sublime, but details of the line were unavailable as of press time.
Dr. Shaath noted that Europeans have an advantage because they have accessibility to more ingredients. “We will have a few of those ingredients approved in the U.S. eventually. As for UVA labeling, the FDA’s proposed testing procedure and the rating system must be amended to allow for a four star UVA rating,” added Dr. Shaath.
The sunscreen monograph could not come at a better time, with skin cancer rates on the rise it has become essential for consumers to be made aware of the risks they pose by soaking up too much sun.
For the consumer looking for protection benefits, Hawaiian Tropic has applied its patented SunSure technology across all products SPF 15 and higher for the past three years.
“SunSure technology provides advanced UVA protection that lasts longer in the sun,” said Ms. Raymond. “Hawaiian Tropic goes beyond the in-lab testing requirements of the FDA and also tests sunscreen products in outdoor sun to ensure the quality of the product,”
Most consumers are aware that UV radiation is linked to premature aging, skin cancer and melanoma, but they’re still confused about what products offer the most effective defense. Karl Gruber, pathologist, chief executive officer and co-founder of Luca Suncare, Charleston, SC, has noted an increase in skin cancers and they are occurring in younger and younger patients.
“Savvy consumers now want to know that they are getting the best UVA and UVB protection available,” said. Dr. Gruber. “The potentially deadly effects of prolonged UVA exposure are the big story this year. At Luca, we are educating consumers about the difference between UVA rays and UVB rays. Only knowledge and understanding of the issue will propel consumers to push the trend toward products with greater UVA protection.”
The FDA sunscreen regulation will create a mandatory warning statement in the drug facts box: UV exposure from the sun increases the risk of skin cancer, premature skin aging, and other skin damage. It is important to decrease UV exposure by limiting time in the sun, wearing protective clothing, and using a sunscreen.

A Novel Idea from Luca

Ahead of the proposed regulation, Luca Sunscreen is the first sunscreen introduced in the U.S. to back up its UVA protection claims with a critical wavelength measurement printed on the bottle. It is designed for adults and children with sensitive skin and is water resistant, hypoallergenic and fragrance free. The sunscreen features polycrylene technology and is available in SPF 15 or 30.
“We sought to make a superior product, but even more importantly, to educate consumers about the dangers of sun, how to select the best products and how to most effectively use these products,” said Dr. Gruber.
Kinerase, Aliso Viejo, CA, pairs the anti-aging treatment of its original lotion with SPF 30. Kinerase Lotion and Cream with SPF 30 are gentle non-prescription products that deliver anti-aging treatment, sun protection and moisture in a single application.
“With the addition of titanium dioxide, a chemical-free sun protectant, and zinc oxide, a key ingredient providing broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection, this product fights against hyperpigmentation and premature aging due to sun exposure. Additionally, these products do not leave the usual greasy feeling many sunscreens leave behind,” explained Christina Fair of Kinerase, Valeant Pharmaceuticals.

Making a Sunless Glow Possible  

Consumers love the sun but not its damaging effects. Summertime skin is achievable with self tanning products that produce a natural-looking glow. Xen-Tan Sunless Tanning Face Tanner provides even color upon application and is enhanced with a new copolymer, trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid copolymer that works with the tanning ingredient (DHA) to make the tan develop with smooth color.
“(The copolymer) works as is a time-release agent with the DHA to develop the tan,” said Dera Enochson, president, Xen Tan, Plano TX.
Xen-Tan Face Tanner contains shea butter for moisture, aloe barbadensis to soothe skin and lactic acid to gently exfoliate skin’s surface for a longer-lasting tan. Xen-Tan Face Tanner comes in one shade, to vary the darkness simply use more or less of the product. It is said to give the look of a fresh tan with one application, but stays even and smooth with daily use.
Xen-Tan’s gradual self-tanner, Transform, also utilizes the time-release technology. It can be used on the body or face. Immediate color is achieved after the first application. Transform is ultra-moisturizing and weightless in a pleasant citrus-melon scent.
“Daily self-tanners like Xen Tan Transform feel and smell like a body moisturizer. Consumers never have to worry about fading or streaks because they are just adding a bit of color daily,” said Ms. Enochson.
Hawaiian Tropic created New Island Radiance Self Tanner. It moisturizes for up to 12 hours, provides flawless color and comes in two formulas (medium and medium dark). It is formulated with All-Q an antioxidant that contains vitamin E and coQ10 complex.
“Consumers seek products with dual purpose, and value- added benefits and convenience remains critical,” according to Ms. Raymond of Hawaiian Tropic.
Zia Natural Ultimate Age-Defying Solar Care Sunless Tanner gives the golden sun-kissed look of a tan while it moisturizes skin. Zia’s streak-free formula uses natural sugars to deliver a rich, golden color that is long lasting and fades naturally. In addition to bronzing the skin, vitamins A and E are combined with healing essential oils to soothe and nourish skin and improve skin’s softness and texture.
Zia Natural Ultimate Age-Defying Solar Care Sunless Tanner helps skin appear bronzed, without the aging and cancer-causing side effects of natural sun exposure.
“Zia’s Age-Defying sunscreen line utilizes a unique emulsifier-free formula that provides water- and sweat-resistance without clogging your pores, said Sarah Galusha, vice president of marketing, Zia Natural, Culver City, CA.
As a healthy alternative, self-tanners can help to even out skin tone and hide minor imperfections. Neutrogena Color Boosting Sunblock SPF 30 is a moisturizing sunscreen that is available in two color-enhancing shades, fair and medium. Formulated with Helioplex technology, the sunblock provides protection and a sun-kissed glow.
For color and finish without an after-smell, Neutrogena launched Sun Fresh Sunless Tanner. The product utilizes an ultra-light formula that imparts moisture and radiance. It is available in two shades, fair/medium and medium/dark with a fresh grapefruit and nectarine fragrance.
Although there is some excitement in the self-tanner segment, Mintel predicts a decline in sales until manufacturers can reduce streakiness and eliminate the unpleasant odor. 

At Ease

Consumers are pressed for time and don’t want to add a step to their routines; if they’re going to be smart about sun care, it had better be made easy.
“We’re seeing a trend toward high SPF products that tout convenience and ease of use,” said Ms. Donovan.
“Consumers are looking for sun care products that can be used daily or year round, not only at the beach. They want formulas that are lightweight and non-greasy, that offer skin care benefits in addition to protecting skin from UV rays,” said Angella Green, brand manager, Jason Natural Products.
Jason Natural Products, Culver City, CA, recently introduced its Sunbrellas line to allow consumers to select the level of protection that is right for their skin and exposure time. Sunbrellas delivers broad-spectrum UV protection in a system of sun care products ranging from SPF 20-46. Facial Block SPF 20 is designed specifically for sensitive skin and contains evening primrose oil and sea kelp extract to nourish skin. Complete Block SPF 26 offers potent, daily-use skin protection while combining essential oils of Kukui nut, babassu and jojoba with beta-carotene to moisturize, nourish and reduce premature signs of aging. It’s also water resistant. Complete Block Spray is an easy-to-use sun care protection in a light, moisturizing formula. It goes on easily and is great for travel. Lips Protector prevents chapping with an SPF 20 and can be used all day long for moisture.
While manufacturers continue to look for new and different ways to provide consumers with sun protection options, a major trend sure to continue in 2008 are products that perform double duty. These are products that offer sun protection benefits in addition to other advantages such as moisturization.

More to Do

The new sun care regulations won’t take effect until 2009. They pose challenges for manufacturers, of course, but may open communication lines with consumers to educate them on the importance of using sun care.
A positive effect is that the four-star system will create opportunities for luxury sun care products.
“The same consumers that are seeking out high quality, expensive protective hats and clothing are becoming more discerning about sunscreens,” explainedDr. Gruber.
Manufacturers have launched a significant number of innovative new formulations and delivery systems, which have helped the category. But they’ll need to continue offering innovation like more lifestyle products such as sports-targeted lines, fun brands for tweens and suntan products with added benefits of vitamins and other natural ingredients.  l

Looking for a new ingredient for your sun care formula? Here's a list of them from leading suppliers in the industry. For more information on cosmetic ingredients, be sure to visit our online Buyer's Guide at www.Happi.com/bg

Sun Care New Ingredients

Here is a list of new sun care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.
For more information about the ingredients listed, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.


Sweden/Newark, NJ
Tel: (46) 454 82000/973-344-1300
Website: www.aak.com
Email: lipid@aak.com 

Lipex Bassol C

INCI name: Vegetable oil
Suggested use levels: 1-100%
Applications: Pure natural emollient, clear liquid at low temperatures offering high stability against oxidation and safe use. Suitable for clear liquid applications for body and sun care as well as for low viscous sprayable emulsions.

Akorex L

INCI name: Canola oil
Suggested use levels: 1-50%
Applications: Natural emollient, enriched in natural phytosterols and tocopherols. Documented skin calming properties and reduction of oxidative stress on skin. High oxidative stability gives extended shelf life and an excellent emollient for all types of sun care formulations.

Lipex 205

INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Suggested use levels: 1-50%
Applications: Liquid shea butter. Excellent for all types of body and sun lotions and after-sun care.

BASF Corporation

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: (800) 880-5768
Website: www.cosmetics.basf.com
Email: cosmetics@basf.com

Luvitol Lite

INCI name: Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Suggested use levels: Varies
Applications: UV protection and after-sun products as well as a wide range of personal care and cosmetic products.
Comments: Luvitol Lite’s tailor-made chemical structure creates a product with three-dimensional functionality. It serves as light emollient,  protective moisture barrier and a conditioner.

Biochemica International

Melbourne, FL
Tel: 321-254-3444
Website: www.biochemica.com
Email: sales@biochemica.com

Brazil Nut Butter

INCI name: Berthorlletia excelsa seed oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil
Suggested use levels: 3-100%
Applications: Cosmetics, toiletries, bar soaps, massage oils, hair care and sun care applications. The butter acts on cutaneous dryness, forming a film that impedes evaporation of moisture from the skin.
Comments: Brazil Nut Oil is rich in fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic, with small amounts of myristic and stearic acids, along with phytosterol; It is naturally rich in vitamins A, B, C and E. We take this nutrient rich oil and combine it with our proprietary exotic butter base to produce Brazil Nut Butter. This butter delivers the benefits of Brazil nut oil in a form that will add a luxurious skin feel, body and emolliency to any anhydrous or emulsion system.

Tucuma Butter - Ultra Refined

INCI name: Astrocaryum tucuma seed butter
Suggested use levels: 3-20%
Applications:  Creams, lotions, balms, makeup foundations and bar soaps.
Comments: The butter’s natural gloss brings a desirable shine to dry, damaged hair and can act as a wonderful skin moisturizer, exhibiting great lubricity. Tucuma Butter is solid at room temperature, but melts immediately on contact. Tucuma’s great emolliency and skin feel come from its unusually high levels of lauric, myristic and oleic fatty acids.

Chamomile Butter

INCI name: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (almond) oil/chamaemelum nobile extract /hydrogenated vegetable oil
Suggested use levels:  3-100%
Applications: Creams, lotions body and lip balms and bar soaps ease away anxiety and soothe inflamed and raw skin.
Comments: Chamomile butter is an aromatic herbal butter that soothes both the body and the mind. Chamomile Butter is a proprietary “butter” developed exclusively by BioChemica International for cosmetic use. Chamomile Butter is actually an extract of whole chamaemelum nobile flowers using a sweet almond oil/ hydrogenated vegetable oil mix which produces a smooth, velvety “butter” at room temperature that surrounds the user with a wonderful aroma. Chamomile has benefits when used in aromatherapy, and it also contains oils that have strong anti-inflammatory benefits for the skin. With Chamomile butter you get the healing properties of this herb in an easy to use butter base that will add amazing skin feel to any emulsion, or anhydrous formulation It is completely oil miscible and contains no preservatives or coloring agents.

Caribbean Natural Products

West Orange, NJ
Tel: 973-736-5252
Website: www.caribnaturalproducts.com
Email: info@caribnaturalproducts.com

Avocado Oil

INCI name: Persea gratissima oil
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Sun care and after-sun products
Comments: The oil from avocados is extremely high in unsaponifiables making it an exceptional moisturizer. It is an excellent choice for anti-aging products, as it has shown efficacy in the improvment of collagen synthesis, reducing the appearance of scars and has been noted to help heal scars.

Ximenia Oil

INCI name: Ximenia americana seed oil
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Sun tan lotions and creams, after-sun products, body moisturizing lotions.
Comments: The ximenia plant belongs to the family olacaciae and is found mostly on the African savannah. Ximenia seed oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids and helps protect, moisturize and restructure the skin. It also resists oxidation, making it excellent for anti-aging products.

Cupuacu Butter

INCI name: Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter
Suggested use levels: 4-8%
Applications: Sun care and after sun products.
Comments: This material is highly emollient and has an excellent shelf life. It melts at body temperature, offering a wide range of uses.

Ciba Corporation

High Point, NC
Tel: 336-801-2000
Website: www.ciba.com/personalcare
Email: personalcare@ciba.com

Ciba Tinovis ADE

INCI name: Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6
Suggested use levels: 0.4-2.0%
Applications: Suntan lotions and creams, after-sun products, body moisturizing lotions.
Comments: Multi-functional thickener with excellent sensory properties, very effective at low use levels, helps to uniformly distribute actives on the skin surface.

Clariant Corporation

Mount Holly, NC
Tel: (800) 538-8397
Website: www.clariant-personalcare.com   
Email: info@clariant.com

SilCare Silicone 41M15

INCI Name: Caprylyl methicone
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Skin & hair care, sun care products, color cosmetics
Comments: Besides the excellent skin feel, SilCare Silicone 41M15 acts as an SPF boosting silicone.

SilCare Silicone SEA

INCI Name: Trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Color care, conditioners, emulsions, AP/Deo products
Comments: SPF boosting silicone which gives fantastic smooth skin feel and depletes hair bleaching caused by UV radiation if used in hair care applications.


INCI Name: Potassium cetyl phosphate
Suggested use levels: 1-4%
Applications: O/W creams/lotions with a broad spectrum of oils and emollients, specially suitable for stable water-resistant sun care formulations.
Comments: Emulsifier for sun care products with high SPF.

Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG

Tel: (49) 2173-4995-0
Website: www.cognis.com
Email: info@cognis.com

Cetiol SenSoft

INCI name: Propylheptyl caprylate
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: face/body care, sun care, face/lip color cosmetics
Comments: Cetiol SenSoft, the “happy” emollient, delivers a multi-dimensional softness and has a very good solubilizing ability of crystalline, organic UV filters and good dispersion power of inorganic pigments, which enhance performances of sun care formulations.

Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA
Tel: (800) 531-0815
Website: www.cognis.com
Email: caresupportUS@cognis.com

Eumulgin SG

INCI Name: Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care spray to cream formulations
Comments:  Eumulgin SG is a highly efficient emulsifier with an outstanding electrolyte compatibility including water-soluble UV filters.

Cosmedia DC

INCI Name: Hydrogenated dimer dilinoyleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: water-resistant sun care from spray to cream formulations
Comments: Cosmedia DC is a water-resistant polymer with moisture boost effect and a unique sensory profile.

Covi-ox T 90 C

INCI Name: Tocopherol
Suggested use levels: 0.1-2.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care spray to cream formulations.
Comments: Covi-ox T 90 C is a mixed tocopherol with a natural origin and is ideally suited for sun care applications.

Creations Couleurs

Dreux Cedex, France
Tel: (33) 02 37 42 18 34
Website:  www.creationscouleurs.com
Email: info@creationscouleurs.com


INCI name: Perfluorohexane (and) perfluorodecalin (and) perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene (and) perfluorodimethylcyclohexane
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Fiflow SC is suitable for after sun products due to its skin renewing property as it helps to repair UV-light induced skin damage.
Comments: Fiflow SC is based on fully fluorinated perfluorocarbons, which have a capacity to carry gases, notably oxygen, nitrogen and carbon dioxide.

Hectone LA

INCI name: Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil (and) di- steardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate
Suggested use levels: 3-20%
Applications: Hectone LA is used as a thickener and rheological additive in emulsions. It is ideal for sun care applications as it is completely photostable and it stabilizes sun care emulsions and prevents the sedimentations of physical UV-filters.
Comments: Hectone LA consists of organoclays, which have been dispersed in meadowfoam seed oil. Hectone LA improves the water resistance of the formulation and boosts the SPF value.

Creagel Crystal VS

INCI name: Squalane (and) ethylene/propylene copolymer
Suggested use levels: 2-7%
Comments: Creagel Crystal VS is a clear, anhydrous gel. It has been produced from vegetable squalane by a polymerization process. Creagel Crystal VS stabilizes emulsion structures and the SPF values of sun care formulation when formulating with physical UV-filters. Creagel Crystal VS creates a structure, which functions as a grid for physical UV-filters allowing an even distribution of the UV-pigments and preventing their sedimentation. When formulating with Creagel Crystal VS, less surfactant is needed and this reduces the skin penetration of organic UV-filters. The hydrophobic quality of Creagel Crystal VS gives a possibility to formulate water resistant products.

Croda Inc.

Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Website:  www.crodausa.com
Email: marketing@crodausa.com

Trimollient BC

INCI name: Tris (PPG-3 benzyl) citrate
Suggested use levels: 2-20%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, facial makeup and sprayable sunscreens
Comments: Patented citrate ester that works synergistically with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption in the UVA spectra.

Phytessence Kudzu

INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) pueraria lobata root extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-5.0%
Applications: Mature skin care, eye serum, revitalizing body lotions, restorative night cream, bust/body firming, sun care, hand care
Comments: Botanical extract that helps to delay chronological skin aging by inhibiting MMP.      

Phytofleur French Rose EC

INCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) rosa gallica flower extract
Suggested use levels: 2-7%
Applications: Sensitive skin care, anti-acne facial washes, cleansing toners, intimate hygiene products, deodorant preparations, shampoos and shower gels, eye care
Comments: An EcoCert certified extract of French Rose proven to protect skin cells from oxidative damage caused by hydrogen peroxide and UVB and to offer DNA protection from both UVA and UVB.

Desert Whale Jojoba Co., Inc.

Tucson, AZ
Tel: 520-882-4195
Website: www.desertwhale.com
Email: buyjojoba@desertwhale.com

Jojoba Hydrate

INCI name: Jojoba alcohol (and) potassium jojobate (and) butylene glycol
Suggested use levels: 3-15%
Applications: Sunscreens, after-sun moisturizers, tanning lotions, protective lip balm
Comments: Jojoba Hydrate acts as the primary emulsifier in a formulation. It is proven to increase skin hydration.

Jojoba Glaze LV, HV, EV

INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba oil) seed oil and ethylene/propylene/ styrene copolymer and butylene/ethylene/ styrene copolymer
Suggested use levels: 3-15%
Applications: Sunscreen, after-sun moisturizers, tanning oils
Comments: Jojoba Glaze is a transparent, colorless viscous gel offered in three viscosities. It is excellent at suspending physical sunscreens like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.      

Iso Jojoba 35 & 50

INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter
Suggested use levels: 5-15%
Applications: Tanning lotions, protective lip balms
Comments: Iso Jojoba is a non-greasy, oxidative stable butter that enhances cushion in skin care products, imparting a more luxurious skin feel.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH

Essen, Germany
Tel: (49) 0 201-173-2854
Website: www.degussa-personal-care.com
Email: personal-care@evonik.com

Tego Turmerone

INCI name: Curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-1%
Applications: Tego Turmerone is suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions for improvement of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone (facial and body care, after sun care, sun protection products).
Comments: Tego Turmerone is the distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root of curcuma longa by supercritical carbon dioxide. Tego Turmerone is ideal for the improvement of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone. Significant antioxidant activity and induction of endogenous cellular defense mechanisms against oxidative stress. Produced with an environmentally friendly process. Contains at least 65% of turmerones.

Tego Arjuna

INCI name: Terminalia arjuna bark extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5%
Applications: Tego Arjuna is suitable for O/W and W/O formulations claiming anti-aging benefits (facial and body care, after sun care, sun protection products).
Comments: Tego Arjuna is a standardized extract from the heartwood of Terminalia Arjuna tree. Tego Arjuna is ideal for anti-aging formulations. Tego Arjuna decreases the depth and/or the number of deep wrinkles, moisturizes the skin, reinforces its barrier function and decreases its scaliness. Contains at least 90% of triterpenes of which a minimum of 65% is ajunolic acid.

Tego Care LTP

INCI name: Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate
Suggested use levels: 1.5-2.5%
Applications: Tego Care LTP is especially suitable for O/W lotions, sprays and creams for facial and body care, baby care, sunscreens and after sun care
Comments: Tego Care LTP is a versatile vegetable-based emulsifier blend for cost effective processing of O/W emulsions for skin care, sun care or baby care applications. Suitable for cold processing of lotions and sprays and for hot processing of creams at a pH 5-8.5.

Grant Industries

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: 201-791-8700
Website: www.grantinc.com
Email: info@grantinc.com

InvisSkin Matrix Rebuilder-O

INCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) dimethylacrylamide/acrylic acid/ polystyrene ethyl methacrylate copolymer (and) palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 (and) lycium barbarum (goji) extract (and) sodium benzoate (and) phenoxyethanol       
Suggested use levels: 10%
Applications: Anti-aging peptide complex appropriate for daily wear and after sun restorative   
Comments: Enhanced peptide anti-wrinkle and lifting effect by stimulation of fibro-blast and collagen synthesis and inhibition of MMP-9. Includes glyco-conjugates and a peptide having immuno-modulatory functions that boost host gene expression, act as cellular messengers and induce chemokine production.        

GranActive RD-101

INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) stearoxymethicone/dimethicone copolymer (and) dimethyl isosorbide (and) dimethicone (and) hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Suggested use levels: up to 10%
Applications: After-sun restorative
Comments: Granactive RD-101 is a formulated cosmetic raw material that includes 1% of a pure ester form of retinoic acid (a bioavailable form of vitamin A)  specifically designed to minimize the effects of over exposure to the sun’s harmful rays. Granactive RD-101 will also reduce wrinkles and lines thereby restoring a more youthful appearance to skin.     

Gransil SiW-HA

INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) water (and) dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (and) butylene glycol (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) decyl glucoside
Suggested use levels: 5-35%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle daily wear and after sun restorative
Comments: Gransil SiW-HA delivers vegetable derived sodium hyaluronate, a moisturizing substance that is also widely distributed in the extracellular matrix of connective tissues in humans. The product form is a concentrated  silicone elastomer microdispersion designed for easy dilution into an aqueous phase. Gransil SiW-HA will aid in restoring the skin’s normal elasticity and assist in gently improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while providing exceptional sensorial aesthetics.

Honeywell International

Morristown, NJ
Tel: 973-455-4425
Website: www.honeywell.com/asensa
Email: asensa@honeywell.com

Asensa PR 200

INCI name: Polyethylene
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: W/O and O/W sunscreen emulsions as well as thickened oils
Comments: Asensa PR 200 is a low melting polyethylene that provides thickening and film-forming properties to sunscreen formulations enabling a more consistent and even layer of sunscreen actives to be left on the skin’s surface. Asensa PR 200 is also proven to enhance water resistance and SPF.

International Sourcing, Inc.

Franklin, NJ
Tel: 201-560-0111
Website: www.internationalsourcinginc.com
Email: isi@insourcenj.com

Prodhyderm XPP

INCI name: Glycerin and quercus robur (oak tree) extract
Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: Protective day cream
Comments: Prodhyderm XPP is a 100% botanical antioxidant to help the skin fight against cell aging caused by the UV rays, reinforcing the cell cohesion, stimulating the DNA making the skin look younger.

Ormagel SH

INCI name: Hypnea musciformis extract (and) gellidiela acerosa extract (and)    sargassum filipendula extract (and) sorbitol
Suggested use levels: 0.5-10%
Applications: Moisturizing creams and lotions, for sensitive skin, repairing creams and after-sun lotions, creams and gels
Comments: Ormagel SH is a high performance marine active ingredient specially formulated to obtain maximum effect on the skin.  Ormagel SH protects the skin from the cutaneous irritations of the environment.

Quiditat SRC

INCI name: Water (and) hypnea musciformis extract (and) gellidiela acerosa extract (and) cocus nucifera (coconut) extract
Suggested use levels: 1.0-8.0%
Applications: Moisturizing creams, lotions, after-sun gels, moisturizing serums and soaps.
Comments: Quiditat SRC is a wholly green coconut water-based bioactive ingredient (Cocus nucifera), vectorized with sulfated polysaccharides, obtained from marine algae from the coast of Brazil which results in a stable product combining the benefits of each ingredient. Quiditat boasts high levels of essential mineral salts, vitamins, amino acids and bio-catalyzers.

Interpolymer Corporation

Canton, MA
Tel: 800-262-1281
Website: www.interpolymer.com
Email: info@interpolymer.com

Syntran PC5227

INCI name: Polyacrylate-15 (and) polyacrylate-17
Suggested use levels: 5-6% as is
Applications: SPF boosting polymer for sun and skin products
Comments: Boost SPF in existing formulations or reduce actives for the same SPF at a lower formula cost.

International Specialty Products

Wayne, NJ
Tel: 973-628-4000
Website: www.ispcorp.com
Email: info@ispcorp.com


INCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) dipeptide-4
Suggested use levels: 0.25-0.5% Applications: Sun care, sensitive skin, anti-aging systems
Comments: An antioxidant peptide that protects against glycation damage, protects skin from environmental stresses, and prevents loss of skin resiliency. Quintescine reinforces UV depleted antioxidant defenses and fights against UV-oxidative stress.

X-Tend 226

INCI name: 2-phenylethyl benzoate
Suggested use levels: 5.0-15.0%
Applications: Sunscreens, daily wear products with SPF, after-sun
Comments: X-Tend 226 is a proprietary polar ester with a high solubilizing capacity for solid organic sunscreen materials such as oxybenzone and avobenzone. X-Tend 226 can also improve the overall aesthetics of sunscreen formulas because it is a relatively light ester that helps counteract the oily feel of sunscreen actives.

Allianz OPT

INCI name: Acrylates/C12-22 alkylmethacrylate copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Sunscreens, sprayable systems, daily wear products with SPF, after-sun
Comments: Allianz OPT delivers water-resistance to sun care formulations. Allianz OPT is ideal for use in low viscosity (sprayable) oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, nonionic emulsification systems and when cold processes are required. Allianz OPT can also be used as an effective thickener and water resistant agent for water-in-silicone (W/S) or water-in-oil (W/O) systems since it thickens the external oil phase.

Jeen International

Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-439-1401
Website: www.jeen.com
Email: info@jeen.com

Jeesilc PS-VHLV

INCI name: Isododecane, bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: For use in sunscreen sprays and emulsions for enhanced feel and film forming properties
Comments:  The Jeesilc PS-VHLV is ideal for alcohol free anhydrous spray products for delivering a soft silky feeling film forming agent.  In addition will bring superior texture to the skin for high SPF emulsion formulas.       

Botanicals Plus  BP-Glucan

INCI name: Beta-glucan
Suggested use levels: 0.50%-1.00%
Applications: For use as a primary anti-inflammatory agent to help manage and repair damaged skin from UV exposure
Comments: This 1-3 branched beta glucan is developed from a proprietary bio-conversion process of mushroom, which delivers a highly efficacious, high molecular weight Beta-glucan. This Botanicals Plus product is water soluble and is ideal for delivering skin healing properties to  UV damaged skin.

Jeesilc 110

INCI name: Dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 4.0-8.0%
Applications: For use as a primary feel modifier in oil-in-water SPF products. This high molecular weight dimethicone system will deliver a soft, talc-like spread profile to emulsions
Comments: Traditional film forming agents can create a negative spread profile in high SPF products. The Jeesilc 110 will aid in modifying the texture of the emulsion, while delivering a soft powdery feel.

Kemira Specialty, Inc

Northvale, NJ
Tel:  201-750-1055   
Website: www.kemira.com

KemSpheres E-CP

INCI Name: Water, cetyl palmitate, glycerin, sodium laureth sulfate, PEG-100 stearate, lactic acid, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Skin care and sun care lotions, creams, sprays, foundation
Comments: KemSpheres E-CP boosts SPF by increasing UV light scattering, due to its particle size and uniformity. An in-vivo SPF study demonstrated its efficacy –an emulsion with 10% KemSpheres resulted in an SPF of 6.  Additionally, KemSpheres E-CP forms a cohesive film on the skin and reduces TEWL.

LCW Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

Saint Ouen l’Aumône, France
Tel: 33 (0)1 34 48 57 00   
Website: www.lcw.fr
Email: lcw@lcw.fr

Natpure SOL

INCI name: Glycerin (and) sucrose laurate (and) sucrose dilaurate (and) sucrose trilaurate (and) sorbitol
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Sun care products
Comments: Natural solubilizer for oils, natural oil soluble dyes and essential oils, derived from natural renewable sources.

Natpure Cellgum

INCI name: Microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Sun care products
Comments: Thixotropic colloidal thickener derived from natural renewable sources essential to formulate spray products; outstanding waterproof result of these O/W emulsions when associated with hydrophobic powders and pigments.        

Natpure Gum

INCI name: Caesalpinia spinosa gum (and) acacia senegal gum
Suggested use levels: 0.5-3%
Applications: Sun care products
Comments: Thickening agent, derived from natural renewable sources, for water-based phase with film forming properties at low concentration.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ
Tel:  973-345-8600   
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com

Lipomulse Luxe

INCI Name: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 stearate (and) ceteareth-20
Suggested use levels: 3-6%
Applications: A simplified emulsifier system ideal for high oil phase, sunscreen creams and lotions. Its liquid crystal structures greatly increase emulsion stability. It also imparts the added benefit of a velvety soft skin feel.

Orgasol Caresse

INCI Name: Polyamide-S
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: A polymer additive that has a dual affinity for oil and water, improves richness, provides a soft powdery finish and greatly reduces the oily feel associated with high SPF sunscreen products.

Neosolue - Aqua 

INCI Name: Polygylceryl-10 eicosanedioate/tetradecanedioate esters (and) glycerin     
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: A water soluble ester that imparts “oil” type emollient properties. Used in sunscreen gels, sprays, emulsions and after sun products.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.

Noveon Consumer Specialties
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com
Email: pcp.csr@lubrizol.com

Glucam E-20 Humectant

INCI name: Methyl gluceth-20
Suggested use levels: 0.5-4.0%
Applications: Sunscreen products, liquid and bar soaps, shower products, dry skin lotions, hydroalcoholic products
Comments: Glucam E-20 humectant is ideal because of its ability to retard excess water loss. It has low irritation potential and it is ideal for use in products for sensitive skin. Glucam E-20 also improves the feel of skin products by reducing tack.      

Schercemol 1818 Ester

INCI name: Isostearyl isostearate
Suggested use levels: 0.50-10.00%
Applications: Sunscreens, water-resistant formulations, treatments for dry skin and lip care products
Comments: Schercemol 1818 ester has good slip, a silky afterfeel and is substantive. It is completely derived from natural, renewable vegetable sources such as oils of sunflower, soybean, olive, palm, rapeseed and their blends.        

Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 Polymers

INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.15-0.40 wt%
Applications: Water resistant sunscreens
Comments: Cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic comonomer. Used as emulsifiers/stabi-lizers for oil-in-water systems. Provide a “quick break,” light sensory experience in water-resistant sunscreen products and other emulsion based skin care applications.

National Starch & Chemical

Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: 888-331-6212
Website:  www.personalcarepolymers.com
Email: personalcare.usa@nstarch.com

Amaze XT starch

INCI name: Dehydroxantham gum
Suggested use levels: 0.5-1%
Applications: Sunscreens, facial cleansers,  skin lotions and creams, bath products, color cosmetics, hair gels, hair mousse, hair lotions and creams, hair conditioners
Comments: A naturally-derived film former and rheology modifier. 

Dermacryl AQF polymer

INCI name: Acrylates copolymer
Suggested use levels: 2.0-4.4% (as is)
Applications: Sunscreens, skin lotions and creams
Comments: An easy to use film former with product ingredient compatibility and formulation flexibility.          

Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd

Tokyo, Japan
Tel: (81) 3-3661-1677
Website: www.nikkol.co.jp
Email: inter@nikkol.co.jp


INCI name: Triethylhexyl citrate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Ester with high pigment dispersing effect; for sun care and liquid makeup.

Nikkosolve 108

INCI name: Butylethyl propanediyl ethylhexanoate.
Suggested use levels: 0.5-3%
Applications: Solvent for poorly soluble UV filters and other actives.

Rose Myrtle Extract BG80

INCI name: Rhodomyrtus tomentosa fruit extract, water, butylene glycol
Suggested use levels: 0.5-3%
Applications: Antioxidant for sun care: stimulates glutathione synthesis in skin and prevents UV-induced DNA damage.

Presperse, Inc.

Somerset, NJ
Tel: 732-356-5200
Website: www.presperse.com
Email: info@presperse.com

Blue SeaKale SC

INCI name: Crambe maritima
Suggested use levels: 1%
Applications: Skin care, body care, makeup, anti-aging products, sun and after-sun products
Comments: Protects against collagen and GAG degradation induced by UVA. Increases cell proliferation. Energizes & revitalizes. Slows down photoaging and chronic aging.

Sea Starwort BG

INCI name: Aqua/water, butylene glycol, aster maritima extract
Suggested use levels: 1%
Applications: Skin care, body and face
Comments: Soothes fragile skin. Protects skin against free radicals, UVA and UVB. Stimulates collagen synthesis.

Crinum Extract

INCI name: Crinum asiaticum extract
Suggested use levels: 1-6%
Applications: Skin care, baby care, body care, hair care

RITA Corporation

Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: (800) 426-7759
Website: www.ritacorp.com
Email: tgoode@ritacorp.com

Ritamollient TN

INCI name: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate
Suggested use levels: up to 50%
Applications: Improves sunscreen film uniformity and solubility


INCI name: Helianthus annus (sunflower) seed oil
Suggested use levels: up to 50%
Applications: Anti-glycation caused by excess sun exposure

Silasoma MEA

INCI name: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, polysilicone-14, butylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, etidronic acid
Suggested use levels: up to 15%
Comments: Silasoma is ready-to-use, encapsulated UV filters. Silasoma encapsulation serves to achieve advantages in sunscreen products, by eliminating or reducing inconveniences of UV filters, such as unstable formulation, skin irritation, uncomfortable texture, strong odor.

The HallStar Company

Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255
Website: www.hallstar.com
Email: customerservice@hallstar.com

SolaSil PSF

INCI name: Undecylcrylene dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Sunscreens and daywear formulations providing SPF and UVA protection
Comments: SolaSil PSF enhances the photostability of the UVA filter avobenzone, by quenching the triplet excited state and improves the feel and spreadability of sunscreen formulations. It has superior organic compatibility, provides formulations with emolliency, anti-whitening and detackification benefits and enhanced substantivity and water resistance. It may also aid in dispersing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreen actives.

HallStar 653

INCI name: Cetyl palmitate
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Substantive emollient for lip balms, creams and lotions providing SPF and UVA protection
Comments: HallStar 653 is a solid emollient finding application as a viscosity booster in lotion and cream products. It is vegetal-based Spermaceti substitute, biodegradable and is useful as a substantive, water-resistant, emollient for lip balms and high SPF lotions and creams.

HallStar GMS SE

INCI name: Glyceryl stearate SE
Suggested use levels: up to 3% as an auxiliary emulsifier, up to 12% as the primary O/W emulsifier
Applications: Self-emulsifying base for sunscreen creams and lotions
Comments: HallStar GMS SE is vegetable-derived glyceryl stearate made self-emulsifying by the incorporation of a controlled proportion of potassium stearate. This biodegradable product is used as the primary emulsifier for O/W creams and lotions and is most useful in the pH range of 5-9. It opacifies and increases the viscosity of such emulsions and produces occlusive films that decrease water evaporation and reduce product greasiness.

Sabinsa Cosmetics

Piscataway, NJ
Tel: 732-777-1111
Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com
Email: info@sabinsacosmetics.com

Natural Sesamin Complex

INCI name: Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% in topical preparations
Applications: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
Comments: Support skin texture and integrity.


INCI name: OxyResveratrol (proposed)
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% in topical preparations
Applications: Antioxidant
Comments: Support skin texture and integrity.

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America

Akron, OH
Tel: (800) 544-1745
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com


INCI name: Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care products, lotions, creams, self-tanners; color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc; hair styling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.
Comments: KF-6038 is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s patented multi-functional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. It is particularly effecive in stabilizing water-insilicone emulsions. It is particularly effecive in stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens without the heavy greasy feel. It has a unique branched architecture in which the polysiloxane backbone is modified with multiple groups including polysiloxanes, polyethers and C12 alklyl groups. The alkyl functional groups are responsible for the compatibility with organic UV filters, and the branched polysiloxane chains are designed to offer compatibility with silicones and silicone-like skin feel. KF-6038 can emulsify oils ranging from 100% silicone to 100% organic. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids. 


INCI name:  Cyclopentasiloxane (and) titanium dioxide (and) acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer (and) alumina (and) stearic acid
Suggested use levels: 5-50%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products:  lotions; creams, self-tanners; cosmetics: foundations
Comments: Shin-Etsu USPD-2 is a fine titanium dioxide powder dispersion that effectively presents UV radiation from reaching the skin. The product is essentially non-whitening, with a transparent appearance on the skin, and with a silky, light skin feel. The dispersion is stabilized by a proprietary silicone-acrylate copolymer dispersant that helps break down the metal oxide agglomerates to give the dispersion a high active content with low product viscosity. The dispersant also effectively reduces the density of the metal oxides and thereby enhances the suspension stability. The product provides an important tool for the chemists to make low viscosity sunscreen products, including sprays, with a light, non-greasy skin feel without compromising the stability. The product provides an important tool for the chemists to make low viscosity sunscreen products, including sprays, with a light, non-greasy skin feel without compromising the stability. Additionally, USPD-2 is also effective for use in skin care products to promote even-toned finish.


Brive, France
Tel: (33)-555-84-58-40
Website:  www.silab.fr
Email: silab@silab.fr


INCI name: Gossypium hirsutum (cotton) extract
Suggested use levels: 1-4%
Applications: Heliomoduline is recommended in all sun care and day care products to limit advanced skin aging.
Comments: Rich in peptides purified from cotton seeds, Heliomoduline stimulates the natural DNA repair system and eliminates the damaged fragments. Skin-aging and inflammatory reactions are therefore reduced