About Face

April 29, 2008

Anti-aging, natural products lead the thriving skin care category.

About Face

Anti-aging, natural products lead the thriving skin care category.

Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor

Mandarin blossom nose strips? An SPF-infused facial cleanser? A customizable self-tanning cream? The skin care market is bombarded with products that make promises, but at the end of the day, they either entice the consumer or are just another moisturizer or face wash. Today’s shoppers are savvier than ever, and when they find a skin care product that not only delivers on its claims but also entices the senses in an entirely novel way, marketers have something that really stands out on the store shelf.
Sales of the entire skin care category totaled $2 billion in U.S. supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers excluding Wal-Mart, according to an Information Resources, Inc. (IRI) report that ended Feb. 24, 2008. This includes $605.7 million on facial anti-aging products, $569.6 million for facial cleansers, $345 million for acne treatments, $320.4 million for facial moisturizers and $27.8 million for body anti-aging products.
IRI data also shows that the entire skin care category rose 7.58% in dollar sales from the past year. Facial anti-aging soared a whopping 17.20%, facial moisturizers leaped 4.91%, facial cleansers climbed 3.66% and body anti-aging jumped 2.57% from a year prior. Furthermore, prestige beauty skin care sold $2.5 billion in 2007, according to The NPD Group of Port Washington, NY. 
The anti-aging sector is clearly leading the way in the category, according to Chicago market research firm Mintel’s Facial Skin Care report for 2007, where it is forecasted that sales of anti-aging products are expected to increase 50% in current prices from 2006-11. Efficacy, medical-grade standards and natural ingredients also enhance a product’s marketability, says The NPD Group. In a skin care study, NPD found 77% of women skin care users 18 and older say, “I don’t mind paying more for a skin care product that really works,” while 42% look for products that are made from natural/organic ingredients and 28% prefer brands that have a physician/doctor endorsement.
In the end, a product that really works stands out, as so many make claims beyond their ability to deliver, says Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dermatology Consulting Services, High Point, NC. “This keeps the consumer shopping and trying.”

Superstar Quality

So, what makes a product so special to shine above the rest? According to industry insiders, it’s a jungle out there—so marketability is paramount.
“Shoppability continues to be difficult. Consumers have a hard time understanding the differences between products and selecting which products are right for them in a very crowded market,” says Angela Bennett, director, skin care marketing, Garnier Nutritioniste, New York, NY. “They are bombarded with so many messages about products, many have become skeptical of claims and products that start to sound the same. However an innovative new ingredient, compelling proven results that boost credibility, or a new unique package delivery system are some of the elements that break products out from the crowd.”
One of Garnier Nutritioniste’s lead rollouts for 2008 is its Skin Renew Anti-Sun-Damage Daily Moisture Lotion with SPF 28. With its exclusive “Skin-Nutrient Complex” with hefty amounts of vitamin C, the product is touted to help correct already existing signs of sun damage and protects the consumer from future impact.
Consumers are really looking for multi-functional skin care products that can meet all of their needs in an elegant and convenient form, notes Anthony D. Gonzalez, senior manager, skin care, R&D, Avon Products, Suffern, NY. He points to Avon’s Anew Ultimate Age Repair Eye as an example.
“Let’s say your eyes are suffering from loss of firmness, wrinkles and excessive fat pockets. You can purchase three separate targeted products or look to a multi-functional product such as Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Eye. This unique product contains a cream that treats wrinkles and firmness with an elixir-formulated to target under-eye fat pockets all in one product.  It is this combination of product form and function that really will help products stand out in the marketplace.”
And for the first time in “masstige,” St. Ives introduced its Elements Protective Cleanser, a breakthrough SPF application with the creation of a daily face wash that provides SPF UVA/UVB protection. According to the company, sunscreens are encapsulated in a positively charged silica shell so it sticks to skin, which is negatively charged, without rinsing off. The oil-free, microencapsulated sunscreen cleanser eliminates the greasy feel of traditional sunscreens while still softening and protecting the skin.
Moisture Surge creme by Clinique.
Speaking of feel, the sensorial experience is also of lead importance when it comes to loyalty to a specific skin care item, says Gail Boye, vice president, global product development, Mark, Avon, New York, NY. “I believe there is a certain synergy with an individual of a particular product. Some things work differently on different people. At Mark, we use potent super fruits and super foods to deliver efficacy.”
Mark debuted an extensive line of super fruit-infused skin care for Spring 2008. For example, the See Things Clearly Brightening Moisturizer features an oil-free formula loaded with “good for your skin ingredients” like lotus flower, an exclusive patent-pending plant extract. The Mist Opportunity Multi-Tasking Refresher is a lightweight facial mist infused with superfruits and other naturally derived ingredients to lightly hydrate all skin types.
“In order to maintain the potency of the ingredients, we use a gentle cold water extraction process that is unique to our line and the performance of the products,” notes Ms. Boye.

Efficacy & Education

Novel formulas and eye-catching packaging aside, at the end of the day, it’s all about efficacy and education to capture the attention of selective customers.
“Consumers are looking for a combination of qualities but first and most important the product must deliver on its promises; consumers expect to see and feel the results before even considering adding a new product into their skin care ritual. Also, consumers are looking for what is right for them personally, no pre-packed solutions. It’s all about customized service,” says Alfredo Remolina, vice president of marketing, SK-II, New York, NY, who adds that his company offers consumers an in-depth skin analysis using the SK-II Beauty Imaging System to understand the skin in six different dimensions and skin concerns. The benefit? “From this analysis, our experienced skin counselors then develop a personalized ritual that includes specific products to target each skin concern the individual may have.”
Kimber L. Maderazzo, senior vice president of product development, research technology and formula development, Proactiv Solution, Guthy-Renker Corporation, Santa Monica, CA, agrees that modern shoppers know what to seek out in skin care. “Consumers are looking for products that make a difference on the skin. In today’s market, skin care technologies have advanced and are proven to show results. They are no longer just for moisturization or cleansing. We need to raise the bar for the consumer, they are very educated on ingredients and know if they are effective or not.”
Truly tapping market needs is key in selling skin care, according to Beth Spruance, vice president, Clinique global treatment marketing, New York, NY. “It is very important that consumers enjoy the skin care products they use. The more pleasant the experience of using the product is, the more likely the consumer is to use it consistently which is the best way to see results in the long term.”

Stop the Clock

Due mainly to breakthrough discoveries in epidermal aging in recent years, anti-aging is the top category for innovation in skin care, according to Mr. Gonzalez of Avon. “The anti-aging consumer is finally accepting the fact that the sun is the main driver in premature skin aging. As a result, the incorporation of broad spectrum sun protection in anti-aging products is gaining in popularity.”
Avon recently introduced Anew Rejuvenate Dial-A-Glow Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 15, an anti-aging moisturizer with SPF that also provides a customized radiant glow. The customer “dials up” the amount of self-tanner to personalize the level of color as desired, all while visibly reducing lines and wrinkles and smoothing rough texture.
In step with innovative products such as Anew Rejuvenate Dial-A-Glow, R&D departments are clamoring to develop the next big thing in anti-aging. “We have seen an increased interest from women in products that address the signs of aging. Last year, Dove introduced Pro•Age, the first complete product collection to meet the changing needs of women who are experiencing menopause,” notes Kathy O’Brien, Dove marketing director, Unilever, Englewood Cliffs, NJ. “Women find their skin is drier and less vibrant as they age. The Pro•Age beauty face, body lotion and hand cream products contain key ingredients to specifically address the unique needs of changing skin: AHAs to remove dead skin cells, glycerin and olive oil to moisturize and nourish skin, and SPF 5 for sun protection.”  
Additionally, says Ms. O’Brien, the increased awareness of the damaging effects of the sun has led to more products that specifically address this concern, such as the introduction of products with an SPF factor, like in the Dove Pro•Age formula, and self-tanning lotions, such as Dove Energy Glow moisturizers which provide an alternative to UVB rays.
The latest from Bioré.
Moisture is key—and the numbers prove it. The majority of women in the U.S. ranked moisturizers as a product they could not live without, according to Clinique’s Global Truth in Beauty Survey. In response, the company updated its Moisture Surge Extended Thirst Relief formula for Spring 2008 to extend and prolong skin hydration for a full 12 hours while taking into account changes in temperature and humidity. Sugar-derived ingredients such as trehalose and sorbitol penetrate deep into the stratum corneum to help maximize the skin’s natural ability to attract moisture from the environment and counter the osmotic shock effect, when it is dehydrated due to a moisture imbalance. The cream also features hydrolyzed extensin, naturally found in carrots, that helps skin withstand change in indoor or outdoor temperatures, as well as hyaluronic acid fragments to provide a more potent water retention capacity, according to Clinique.

Shades of Green

Natural formulations and even eco-friendly packaging are all the rage in skin care, as seen by industry insiders. 
“We are finding more and more consumers looking for greener options for facial skin care,” says Lizz Starr, executive director, Origins Global Product Development, New York, NY. “This might be a backlash from all of the ‘derm-inspired/botox-like’ products that preceded, but nonetheless we are happy to have been in the natural category before there even was a category. We always knew there was tremendous power in plant actives…whether it’s antioxidant or anti-wrinkle. Think of the number of pharmaceuticals that have their origins in plant actives. That’s confirmation that these ingredients work!”
Origins has boosted its green anti-aging offerings with collections like “A Perfect World,” which is based on the antioxidant benefits of silver tip white tea. This summer, the line will add a deep foaming cleanser to the mix. It is said to be a core component in Origins’ complete antioxidant regime, protecting skin from the damaging effects of environmental stressors. The new product helps conquer oxidizing agents, traveling into pores to help eliminate impurities. 
Maxine Siegel, a skin care expert for AHAVA North America, New York, NY, agrees that the wellness trend of maintaining not only beautiful but healthy skin is very important to today’s skin care market. “Consumers are more educated than ever and are looking for the best products in the marketplace which drives product innovation. Many younger consumers are interested in anti-aging and sun products well before their years as the importance of living a healthy lifestyle and maintaining beautiful skin increases.  It has replaced the former view of these catagories as products that you use when you’re older and to repair damaged skin.” AHAVA, creators of mineral-based skin care products exclusive to the Dead Sea in Israel, recently launched its AHAVA Dermud Dry Skin Treatment specially formulated to treat dry, sensitive and problematic skin—often seen in younger clientele.
Also aiming to captivate a younger demographic is the aforementioned Mark skin care range for Spring 2008 and its sister line, the plant-based Liiv Botanicals by Avon, also making a debut this season.
“The trend is towards naturally derived products. People like getting back to basics and are being educated on how powerful natural ingredients can be,” noted Ms. Boye of Mark.
While natural products and brands are fueling growth on one end of the spectrum, there is also growth in “technologically advanced” products as well, notes Ms. Bennett of Garnier Nutritioniste. “We therefore see new brands emerging that are very natural focused or very science focused and we see manufacturers targeting consumers more in terms of psychographics.”
Leigh Anne Rowinski, director, client solutions, IRI, Norwalk CT, agrees. “Anti aging and sun care are the consistently growing categories year over year, but acne treatment and naturals are gaining strength due to both the young demographic and as green/sustainability/‘better for you’ products gain interest among a wider set of consumers.”


High performance products in all categories of skin care are needed, notes Ms. Maderazzo of Guthy-Renker, as consumers fit into a host of categories in different stages of life. “We want to make sure we have everything the consumer needs,” she says. For example, Proactiv Solution’s 3-Step System includes full-size bottles of essential Proactiv products: Renewing Cleanser, Revitalizing Toner and Repairing Lotion. According to Guthy-Renker, more than one million customers purchase the system each year.
“Consumers today want it all,” concurs Lisa Cohorn, director of brand development for Mary Kay, Dallas, TX. “Each of these categories is important in today’s marketplace. A consumer is finding ways to ‘fit’ all these product attributes into her daily routine. Each of these skin care categories also play off of each other; if you can find something 'natural' that also has an anti-aging benefit, then the consumer will definitely be meeting several needs in one product.”

Novel Skin Care Concepts from RMJ

RMJ Laboratories is best known as a contract research and manufacturing company to the personal care industry. In recent months, however, the company has developed a range of novel skin care systems that take advantage of unique chemistries.

At a recent press conference at its facilities in Edison, NJ, Tammy Yaiser, director of business development, provided details on several of RMJ’s newest projects.

“We have a rich pipeline of new product development to go hand-in-hand with our state-of-the-art facility,” said Ms. Yaiser.

One of these new materials is hydroxysomes (INCI: hydroxyapatite). This, biocompatible, biodegradable, delivery system uses the skin’s pH as the release mechanism.

Based on this technology, RMJ researchers created several skin care products that promise to reduce the signs of aging. For example, a four-item skin care line combines hydroxysomes and peptide PLA to deliver collagen to the skin and inhibit collagenase. The line includes anti-aging day cream with UVA/UVB SPF15, anti-aging daytime cream for eyes, anti-aging night cream and anti-aging nighttime serum for eyes.

In addition to developing the hydroxysome-peptide PLA combinations, RMJ went a step further by combining these ingredients with bio-active epidermal growth factor (EGF). According to the company, this bio-active protein emulsion helps revive damaged cells to a younger version of themselves, prompting skin to act younger.

At the same time, RMJ researchers developed two enzyme-based products to improve the appearance of cellulite and scars. A body contour cream contains patent-pending ColH-FM protein, delivered via hydroxysomes, to increase body firmness and re-shape contours for a more toned, more slim, re-sculpted look.

The scar reduction cream combines hydroxysomes with ColH-SR, a bio-engineered enzyme that targets excessive scar collagen to smooth, soften and flatten scars.

Finally, a new, 100% hydroquinone-free spot corrector delivers a biologically-derived skin brightening agent to help even out and lighten skin tone. More info: www.rmjlabs.com

Mary Kay’s most recent rollout is its Subtle Tanning Lotion, said to give skin the moisture it craves while enhancing its natural tone for a stunning glow. This lightweight, non-greasy formula absorbs quickly for color that won’t rub off. It also has a coconut fragrance.
Another product playing on the power of scent and aesthetics making a debut in Spring 2008 is Bioré’s Mandarin Blossom Nose Strips. Like the original product, the citrus-scented strips bond to the dirt and oil that have settled into the skin and lift out pore-clogging agents, removing weeks of build-up in minutes.

Beyond 2008

So, what’s next for the billion-dollar skin care arena? According to Dr. Draelos, in the OTC market, the push will be for peptides and other substances that allow aging cells to express youthful characteristics.
Ms. Bennett of Garnier Nutritioniste agrees. “In 2008, we’ll see the introduction of more intense anti-aging treatments, but we’ve also seen over the past 5-10 years that consumers have continued to become more aware and more concerned with the aging effects of the sun’s damaging rays. Therefore, manufacturers will launch skin care with new, better sunscreen ingredients and also products addressing not just the signs of aging, but also the signs of sun-damage in terms of lines, sunspots and discolorations. 
The future's bright for skin care.
While natural and organic products will continue to grow, the anti-aging and moisturization category will have to re-invent itself, according to Ms. Rowinski of IRI. “There is a vast number of skin care issues across many types of skin that consumers are not currently really thinking about. Marketers have a tremendous opportunity to create this education and therefore the products/messaging that can help bring about ‘new’ usage and understanding of how to take care of your skin,” she says.
Ms. Cohorn of Mary Kay thinks the concept of multi-tasking will become even more condensed in the future. “I think skin care will only become more fine-tuned and ‘instant’ as the consumer continues to demand these things in their products.  I also believe there will be a counter to the proliferation—if someone can find a way to deliver all that the consumer wants into fewer steps/products, it would have a profound effect on their crazy lives.”
“The sky’s the limit. It will be a combination of high tech, combined with more natural-based ingredients. Packaging will also continue to be innovative,” adds Ms. Boye of Mark.
Serums are also a coveted form of skin care on its way to bigger and better formulations, notes Mr. Remolina of SK-II. “Serums really seem to be coming to the forefront this year, as more technology is used to develop powerful products. Serums are more lightweight than creams, deliver more immediate effects and can be layered under other products.”
According to Ms. Maderazzo of Guthy-Renker, the future is now. “Technologies advance everyday, and we are always looking for new technologies. Our formulation teams are working on 2011 right now—2008 is already history.”  

Skin Care New Ingredients

Here is a list of new skin care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.
For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.

Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc

Fort Lee, NJ
Tel: (201) 292-3180
E-mail: specialty_chemicals_cst@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajichem.com

Eldew APS-307

INCI name: Phytosteryl/decyltetradecyl myristoyl methyl beta-alaninate
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: Creams, lotions, facial cleansers, sunscreen lotions, makeup removers, lipsticks, foundations
Comments: An amino acid-based emollient with extraordinarily high water-holding capacity—over 2,000% of its weight. This hard wax is derived from the amino acid β-alanine and phytosterol and has a light, moisturizing skin feel with no stickiness, making it ideal for lipstick and foundation applications.

Gelatinization Agent EB-21/GP-1

INCI name: EB-21 dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide,  GP-1 dibutyl lauroyl glutamide
Suggested use levels: 0.2-4.0%
Applications: Stick type antiperspirants/deodorants, skin creams, lipglosses, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, sun care
Comments: EB-21 and GP-1 are highly effective oil gelling agents based on L-glutamic acid. They make nano-sized fiber networks in liquid oils and macroscopically make hard oil gels. In the case of viscous oils, such as polyisobutene, EB-21 and GP-1 act as viscosity modifiers producing viscous gels. There are no sensory changes to the gelled oils themselves, however, since small amounts of EB-21 and GP-1 are needed to form gels.

Arch Personal Care Products

South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (908) 561-5200
E-mail: archpc@archchemicals.com
Website: www.archpersonalcare.com

NAB Butterbur Extract

INCI name: water and petasites japonicus extract
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care, treatment products
Comments: Naturally based active, anti-allergy, anti-irritant, and anti-histamine, reduces redness or blotchiness; for all skin types: especially sensitive skin; counters irritating activities such as chemical peel, whitening, shaving, cleansing, waxing, etc.


INCI name: water and urea and yeast amino acids and trehalose and inositol and taurine and betaine
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Any and all skin care and treatment products
Comments: Regulates water channeling at the cellular level via upregulation of Aquaporin-3, contains three key osmolyte regulators, cellular membrane water control, increases skin moisturziation by 30% in just 15 minutes.

BASF Corporation

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: (800) 880-5768
E-mail:  personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: www.personal-care.basf.com

Luvitol Lite

INCI name: Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Suggested use levels: For Radiant Glow Daily Mosturizer 50/00186, use 5%; for Cashmere Cream 50/00178, use 20%
Applications: Lotions and creams, hair conditioners, facial cleansers, cleansing show oils, mosturizing body oils, UV protection and after sun products, shampoos and body washes.
Comments: It provides lightweight moisturization for a cashmere soft feel, maintains skin's natural water balance for a more radiant appearance, conditions hair to a silky smooth finish with enhanced shine.

Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com

TEGO Tumerone

INCI name: Curcuma longo (tumeric) root extract
Suggested use levels:  0.1-1.0%
Applications: Facial care, anti-aging Comments: Ideal for the improvement of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone. TEGO Turmerone has significant antioxidant activity and induces endogenous cellular defense mechanisms against oxidative stress, which has been shown through in vitro studies. It is suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions targeting improved skin radiance and skin tone.


INCI name: glycerin, palmitoyl dipeptide-5
diaminobutyloyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate
Suggested use levels:  0.4-1.0%
Applications: Skin care products, anti-aging Comments: Stimulates laminin V, collagen types IV, VII and XVII and integrin all at the same time.  Due to the broad spectrum of activity, this product can provide the maximum anti-aging benefit to the skin. It provides in one product the excellent cosmetic benefits of increased skin compactness, tone and elasticity.


INCI name: Isohexadecane, bis-PEG/
PPG-14/14 dimethicone, ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer, butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer, cyclopentasiloxane, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, tripeptide-1
Suggested use levels:  1.0-3.0%
Applications: Skin care, lip products
Comments: A new way to deliver sodium hyaluronate, which enhances its penetration and efficacy, especially designed for increasing volume on the lips. It plumps, redefines and minimizes fine vertical lines, while keeping the lip contour in shape.  This provides lip fullness and can be used in water-free lip care formulations.

Chemsil Silicones Inc

Chatsworth, CA
Tel: (818) 700-0302
E-mail: pnuntavong@chemsil.com
Website: www.chemsil.com

Chemsil SPD

INCI name: Dimethicone/dimethicone vinyl crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-15%
Applications: See comments
Comments: A high solids aqueous dispersion of fine silicone powder.  Leaves a silky, talc-like feel when incorporated in skin care products. Perfect for silk sprays and after shower lotions for reducing skin friction.

Chemsil K-51

INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-25%
Applications: See comments
Comments: A clear elastomer gel compound with a luxuriously dry after feel.  Leaves a     matte finish on skin with a talc-like after- feel. 

Self-Warming Pre-Shave Guard

INCI name: Patent pending   
Suggested use levels: 100%
Applications: See comments
Comments: When applied to a wet shaving area, it increases the temperature 13ºC and allows for smoothing shaving by coating the cuticle and skin with lubricants and film formers to provide an excellent after-feel. After massaging in Self-Warming Pre-Shave Guard, rinse off, apply shave creme and shave normally.

Ciba Corporation

High Point, NC
Tel: (336) 801-2000
E-mail: personalcare@ciba.com
Website: www.ciba.com/personalcare

Ciba Tinovis ADE

INCI name: Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6
Suggested use levels: Cosmetic base 0.5%, hand and body lotion 0.5%, suntan lotion and cream 0.75%, emulsion stabilizer 0.05-0.2%, foundations 0.8%
Applications: Hand and body lotions, sun tan lotions, foundations
Comments: The hydrogenated polydecene carrier adds excellent sensory characteristics to this highly efficient, cold process thickener.

Ciba Calisha OD Pearl Effect Pigments

INCI name: Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) cetyl dimenthicone
Suggested use levels: 0.5-4.0%
Applications: Sunless tanners, body lotions
Comments: Gives the skin radiant, long lasting color. OD Pearls enhance the skin feel, contributing a silky emolliency and improved tone and texture.

CLR Chemisches Laboratorium

Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49-30-85-10-26-0
E-mail: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com

Yeast Complex B

INCI name: Water, water, alcohol, yeast extract, thiamine HCl, pyridoxine HCl
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: For use in aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic skin and hair preparations.
Comments: A unique composition of organic yeast extract and nature-identical thiamin (vitamin B1) and pyridoxine (vitamin B6) and is intended for application to skin with excessive secretion of sebum, i.e., oily or mixed skin with a poor complexion. It is also suitable for application to scalps with elevated secretion of sebum.

Cutipure CLR

INCI name: Water, taraktogenos kurzii seed oil, nigella sativa seed oil, leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids, palm glycerides, capryloyl glycine, magnolia grandiflora bark extract
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: For use in aqueous and emulsified skin and hair preparations.
Comments: Contains actives coming from black cumin, chaulmoogra, magnolia and manuka and has multiple rebalancing effects on elevated sebum production and the formation of comedones, pimples and pustules.

Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA
Tel: (215) 628-1000
E-mail: caresupportus@cognis.com
Website: www.cognis.com

Cetiol SenSoft

INCI name:  Propylheptyl caprylate
Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care, face/lip color cosmetics.
Comments: The “happy” emollient delivers a multi-dimensional softness and has a very good solubilizing ability of crystalline, organic UV filters and good dispersion power of inorganic pigments.

Eumulgin SG

INCI name:  Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care from spray to cream formulations.
Comments: A highly efficient emulsifier with an outstanding electrolyte compatibility including water soluble UV filters.

Cutina PES

INCI name:  Pentaerythrityl distearate
Suggested use levels: 1.0-4.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care.
Comments: The new O/W consistency wax which creates a non-waxy, light and caring skin feel.

Croda Inc.

Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
E-mail: marketing@crodausa.com
Website: www.crodausa.com

Trimollient BC

INCI name: Tris (PPG-3 benzyl) citrate
Suggested use levels: 15-20%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, facial make-up, sprayable sunscreens
Comments:   Trimollient BC is a patented citrate ester demonstrating valuable benefits in the area of sun protection. The emollient itself does not possess sun protection but, rather, works synergistically with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption in the UVA spectra.  It helps to optimize the UVA/UVB ratio by shifting the critical wavelength further into the UVA spectrum; thus, enhancing the sunscreen’s UVA absorption quality.

Crodaderm C

INCI name: Sucrose polycottonseedate
Suggested use levels: 0.2-10.0%
Applications: Facial cleanser, facial moisturizers, lotions, body washes, baby care, sun care, color cosmetics, shaving creams, anti-perspirants/deodorants, soaps, wipes
Comments: Multi-functional emollient. Moisturizer, anti-transfer, rinse resistant, good skin feel; imparts softness and suppleness; can improve skin appearance.   

Dow Corning Corporation

Midland, MI
Tel: (989) 496-4000
E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/conent/personal/

Dow Corning EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder

INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: Loose-, pressed-powders (eyeshadow, makeup), liquid and stick foundations in color cosmetics; face and body creams, lotions and gels
Comments: A hard, white elastomeric silicone powder that provides a silky, powdery skin feel, along with sebum absorption.  Also improves color and coverage.

Dow Corning EP-9261 TI Cosmetic Powder

INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) titanium dioxide
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: Loose-, pressed-powders (eyeshadow, makeup), liquid and stick foundations in color cosmetics; face and body creams, lotions and gels
Comments: This cosmetic powder provides smoothness and a powdery, non-greasy skin feel; high sebum absorption; soft focus; and improves SPF. As a white cross-linked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder combined with low particle size titanium dioxide, it is also suitable to aid in formulation by thickening volatile silicone and facilitating compaction.

Dow Corning EP-9289 LL Cosmetic Powder

INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) lauroyl lysine
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: Loose-, pressed-powders (eyeshadow, makeup), liquid and stick foundations in color cosmetics; face and body creams, lotions and gels
Comments: A white cross-linked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder combined with lauroyl lysine. This unique combination enables the powder to improve flow and reduce agglomeration, providing superior handling ease.

Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation

Hopewell, VA
Tel: (804) 452-5623
E-mail: carla.huffman@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care

TEGO Arjuna

INCI name: Terminalia arjuna bark extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5%
Applications:  O/W, W/O Emulsions
Comments: A standardized extract from the heartwood of Terminalia Arjuna tree. The ingredient is ideal for anti-aging formulations. It moisturizes the skin, reinforces its barrier function and decreases its scaliness.


INCI name: Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate
Suggested use levels: 1.5-2.5%
Applications: Facial and body care, baby care, sunscreens, after sun care
Comments: A versatile vegetable-based emulsifier blend for cost effective processing of O/W emulsions for skin care, sun care or baby care applications. Suitable for cold processing of lotions and sprays and for hot processing of creams at a pH 5-8.5.


INCI name: Ceteareth-25; glycerin; cetyl alcohol; behenic acid; cholesterol; ceramide EOP; ceramide EOS; ceramide NP; ceramide NS; ceramide AP; caprooyl phytosphingosine; caprooyl sphingosine
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: W/O, O/W creams, lotions, anti-aging products
Comments: Unique blend of new long chain ceramides and newly-identified sphingokines. Ideal for mature skin by providing protection, regeneration and prevention. Corrects membrane defects of the stratum corneum lipid barrier and regeneration.

Global Seven, Inc.

Franklin, NJ
Tel: (973) 209-7474
E-mail: sales@global-seven.com
Website: www.globalseven.com

Hest G-18-O

INCI name: Glycereth-18 ethylhexanoate (and) glycereth-18
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin and hair care  
Comments: A non-irritating, water-soluble, emollient ester with broad spectrum anti-microbial activity.  Conventional preservatives are often heat sensitive and react with many common ingredients reducing or eliminating their activity.  Hest G-18-O is superior to conventional preservatives being unreactive and insensitive to heat.  Inclusion of Hest G-18-O improves the aesthetics of any formulation while helping to ensure preservative efficacy.

Hest HVB Liquid

INCI name: PEG-175 diisostearate (and) glycereth-7 caprylate/caprate/cocoate (and) water
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Viscosifier for cold process cleansers
Comments: A high performance liquid thickener developed to be highly effective in surfactant systems. It requires no heat for processing and is much more soluble than other similar materials resulting in greater stability, increases formulation versatility, simplifies manufacturing and development, shortens manufacturing and development cycle time, and reduces formulation and manufacturing costs.   

Grant Industries

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: (201) 791-8700
E-mail: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com

Granactive Retinoid

INCI name: Dimethylisosorbide (and) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate
Suggested use levels: 0.1-1%
Applications:  Anti-aging, skin lightening, acne treatments
Comments: A perfect pairing of the most active non-prescription form of vitamin-A for cosmetics concentrated in the best delivery solvent for dermal active delivery.  Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is the cosmetic ester of all-transretinoic acid and, unlike retinol esters, does not require metabolic conversion to be in the preferred active form for interacting with retinoic RAR receptors to obtain benefits of vitamin A.

Granactive RD-101

INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) stearoxymethicone/dimethicone copolymer (and) dimethyl isosorbide (and) dimethicone (and) hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications:  Anti-aging, skin lightening, acne treatments
Comments: A silicone-elastomer gel containing 1% pure trans-retinoate ester. Designed for low irritation and effective topical delivery in skin care. Recommended for non-prescriptive topical cosmetic, cosmeceutical and dermatological applications at 0.1% final retinoic ester concentration.

Granactive Powder-168

INCI name: Mica (and) silica (and) water (and) ethoxy diglycol (and) barium sulfate (and) peat extract (and) palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 (and) gold (and) hydrolyzed wheat protein (and) phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) potassium sorbate (and) hexylene glycol
Suggested use levels: 5%
Applications: Anti-aging pressed powders, mineral-type loose powders
Comments: A catalytic complex designed to stimulate anti-aging cellular turnover as delivered from loose and pressed powder applications. Active ingredients include palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 for matrix-fibroblast stimulation and collagen growth, along with fulvic acid (peat extract) and colloidal gold for promoting electron transfer between minerals and the metal ions contained in the dermal layers of skin.

Jeen International

Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
E-mail: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com

BP Phytocollagen

INCI name: Poly-glutamic acid, poly-fructose
Suggested use levels: 1.00-2.50%
Applications: Skin care formulations, treatment serums and moisturizing body and facial  wash systems
Comments: A fermentation product of soybean  that is excellent for moisturizing  and skin nourishing properties. It also shows a good lubrication and  spread.

Jeesilc DS-8

INCI name: PEG-8 dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 4-8%
Applications: For use in aqueous based systems that require a smooth silky feel delivered from a water soluble silicone. Ideal for
clear facial serums that require a soft silky spread without tackiness.
Comments: It will allow for levels up to 20% to solubilize into water with clarity.

BP Glucan

INCI name: Beta-glucan
Suggested use levels: 0.50-1.5.0%
Applications: Anti-irritation, moisturizing formulations for damaged skin.
Comments: Extracted from liquid fermented mycelia of a unique fungal strain that has a high molecular weight profile of approximately 3.5 million.

Kemira Specialty Inc.

Northvale NJ
Tel: (201) 750-1055
E-mail: cosmetics@kemira.com
Website: www.kemira.com/cosmetics

NanoGel CCT

INCI name: Caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerine, aqua/water, laureth-23, sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate
Suggested use levels: Add to a 1:1 ratio to oil
Applications: Nano emulsion system for topical skin care applications
Comments: Provides a simple system to create sub-micron emulsions from an easy-to- use concentrate. It is compatible with most oil-soluble or water-soluable ingredients.  

KemSpheres Q10

INCI name: aqua/water, cetyl palmitate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerine, lauryl glycoside, ubiquinone, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, xanthan gum, lactic acid.
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Encapsulation technology for anti-aging
Comments: A unique and patented carrier system especially designed for use in skin care formulations to deliver pure ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10) to the skin. Controlled release offers a much higher bioavailability than any other delivery system. KemSpheres Q10 can be used in any cosmetic formulation with more ease than conventional delivery systems.

Flax-Tein Pro

INCI name: Hydrolyzed flax protein
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Anti-acne, anti-aging, facial care, hand creams and lotions, dry/winter skin treatments, shampoos, conditioners and hair treatment products.
Comments: Imparts benefits to both skin care and hair care products. It is particularly suited to products focused on natural ingredients. An excellent film former, Flax-Tein Pro prevents the evaporation of water and enhances the skin’s natural barrier function, promoting healthy, radiant, moisture-rich skin. On the hair, the film-forming properties smooth the hair shaft.

Laboratoires Serobiologiques

Paris, France
Tel:  +33 (0)144-79-95-17
E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis.com
Website: www.labserobio.com

Actiwhite LS 9808

INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) sucrose dilaurate (and) polysorbate-20 (and) pisum sativum (pea) extract
Suggested use levels: 2-3%
Applications: Whitening ranges including face and body care products, skin lightening products, creams and serums for the reduction of age spots
Comments: A new tailor-made whitener that offers a different mechanism compared to traditional direct tyrosinase inhibition, meeting market requirements for a new generation of skin lighteners.

Syniorage LS 9748

INCI name: Glycerin (and) acetyl tetrapeptide-11
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-age face care, specific care for mature skin
Comments: This ingredient is an active peptide specifically targeting the epidermis, which reverses the effects of aging. It acts on the two constituents of the epidermis that are primarily responsible for its cohesion, thereby helping to enhance the appearance of the skin and restore its radiance, resistance and firmness. It improves the adhesion between epidermis and dermo-epidermal junction through the stimulation of collagen XVII synthesis.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
E-mail: salesandmarketing
Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Orgasol Caresse

INCI name: Polyamide copolymer
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: Skin treatments, acne treatments, dry and mature skin, sensitive skin
Comments: Brings together aesthetics and performance by enhancing sensorial effects, while providing superior optical benefits.

Tremoist TP

INCI name: Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide
Suggested use levels: .02-.5%
Applications: For all types of skin care
Comments: Has a high moisturizing effect, improves skin hydration and dries to form a film that does not shrink.

Lipomulse Luxe

INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 stearate (and) ceteareth-20
Suggested use levels: 3-6%
Applications: Skin care creams and lotions, acidic pH skin “peel” exfoliators, high oil-phase emulsions
Comments: Leaves skin feeling extremely soft, compatible with a wide range of emollients and actives, exceptional sensory profile, forms liquid crystals, stable over a broad pH range.

Mibelle Biochemistry

Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62-838-17-31
E-mail: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com

PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica

INCI name: Malus domestica fruit cell culture
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Innovative skin care formulations to protect skin stem cells
Comments: First plant stem cell ingredient to protect skin stem cells


INCI name: Astragalus membranaceus root extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Anti-aging for blemished, oily or combination skin
Comments: Combination of anti-aging and anti-blemish.


INCI name: Lepidium sativum sprout extract
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Anti-aging with correction of age spots and pigmentation disorders
Comments: Phyto agent for whitening

Micro Powders, Inc.

Tarrytown, NY
Tel: (914) 793-4058
E-mail: mpi@micropowders.com
Website: www.MPIpersonalcare.com

Naturebead G20

INCI name: Cetyl esters, oryza sativa (rice) bran wax, olea Europaea (olive) fruit oil
Suggested use levels: 1.0-10.0%
Applications: Exfoliating scrub, soaps, face scrubs, body scrubs, foot scrubs, creams, liquids, gels and lotions
Comments: Naturebead G20 is designed to soften as particles are rubbed onto the skin.

Microspersion 511PC

INCI name: Polypropylene, isohexadecane, polyethylene
Suggested use levels: 2.0-10.0%
Applications: Creams and lotions
Comments: Microspersion 511PC provides a matte finish and excellent after feel.

Noveon Consumer Specialties
Lubrizol Materials Inc.

Cleveland, OH
Tel: (216) 447-5000
E-mail: pcp.csr@lubrizol.com
Website: www.personalcare.noveon.comwww.sensimap.com

Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer
and Schercemol NGDO Ester

INCI name: Carbomer and neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, respectively
Suggested use levels: 0.20-0.75% and 3.0-15.0%, respectively
Applications: Facial moisturizers, skin hydrators, makeup removers, serums, toners and milks
Comments: Make it refreshing. Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer imparts a high degree of wetness and spreadability upon initial application, which is quickly followed by continued spreadability from Schercemol  NGDO ester, high slip and a generally light afterfeel.  This combination of sensory cues helps reinforce a refreshing experience during use. 

Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer
and Schercemol NGDO Ester

INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, respectively
Suggested use levels: 0.20-0.75% and 3.0-15.0%, respectively
Applications: Spa products, pedicure and body creams, moisturizing lotions
Comments: Make it luxurious. Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer delivers extended play time before the emulsion breaks, after which the light, silky afterfeel from Schercemol NGDO ester is revealed.  These sensory attributes convey elegance and are ideal for products where enjoying the application experience is as important as the product function.

Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer
and Schercemol DISM Ester

INCI name: Carbomer and diisostearyl malate, respectively
Suggested use levels: 0.20-0.75% and 3.0-15.0%, respectively
Applications: Eye treatments, sunscreens, foot and leg balms
Comments: Make it surprising. Carbopol  Ultrez 10 polymer brings a light, fresh initial texture that quickly transforms into a richer, substantive feel courtesy of Schercemol DISM ester. This dual effect skinfeel offers intriguing possibilities for showcasing the uniqueness of your formulations. 

Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer
and Schercemol DISM Ester

INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and diisostearyl malate, respectively
Suggested use levels: 0.20-0.75% and 3.0-15.0%, respectively
Applications: Night creams, moisturizing masks, eye creams
Comments: Make it indulgent. Rich, creamy aesthetics perceived in the initial application are from the Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer, and are continued through to afterfeel with the rich, cushiony skinfeel of Schercemol DISM Ester. These sensory signals are ideal for products intended to deliver a lavish, satisfying experience for the user.

RITA Corporation

Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: (815) 337-2500
E-mail: sales@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com

RITALAB Pomegranate Extract

INCI name: Water, butylene glycol, punica granatum extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and improves skin barrier functions
Comments: See applications.

RITALAB White Willow

INCI name: Water, salix alba (willow) leaf
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, exfoliant based on natural source of salicylic acid and natural preservation activity
Comments: See applications.

RITALAB Songyi Mushroom Extract

INCI name: Water, butylene glycol, tricholoma
matsutake (sungyi mushroom) extract Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: This extract is used for skin color lightening, anti-aging and collagen growth stimulation
Comments: See applications.

ROVI Cosmetics International GmbH

Schlüchtern, Germany
Tel: +49-(0)6661-967638
E-mail: info@ROVICosmetics.de
Website: www.ROVICosmetics.de


INCI name: Lecithin hydrogenated, rhus succedanea cera, pentylene glycol, lecithin
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care, hair care
Comments: LipoFuse from ROVI is an innovative solid carrier system with a large loading capacity for lipophilic actives. It is a long-sought solution for the stabilization of lipophilic actives susceptible to oxidation.

Sabinsa Corporation

Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 777-1111
E-mail: info@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsa.com


INCI name: n/a
Suggested use levels: 0.05-0.2%
Applications: OxyResvenox is used as an antioxidant, for skin whitening products
Comments:  See above.

Sederma, Inc.

Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
E-mail: marketing@crodausa.com
Website: www.crodausa.com


INCI name: Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) teprenone
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: Anti-aging creams or lotions
Comments: While most anti-aging products focus on just on wrinkles, Renovage is a global anti-aging treatment that treats all signs of skin aging by helping to delay the senescence of cells.


INCI name: Pentylene glycol (and) polysorbate-20 (and) 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid (and)  calcium hydroxymethionine (and) hydroxyethylcellulose
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: Anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, facial and neck care creams, lotions or serums
Comments: Essenskin fortifies and restructures the thin fragile skin of individuals 60 and over. This ingredient provides a complementary source of calcium and essential amino acids to re-boost cell metabolism and protein synthesis. 


INCI name: Thermus thermophillus ferment (and) glycerin
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: All skin care, sun care and day creams, lotions or serums. Also recommended for liquid foundations.
Comments: This ingredient from Sederma is derived from a deep sea extremophile, Venuceane is a source of heat stable enzymes with antioxidant protection against free radicals. Venuceane also corrects skin aging under many environmental skin-aging conditions.