Today's popular styles, like this one created by Rusk, offer multiple looks which marketers hope will boost styling product consumption.
Can targeted formulations and versatile cuts that give consumers more than one look boost sales of hair styling products?
Monday to Friday, they are well-groomed professionals, but come Saturday night, they’re clubbing with friends or enjoying a quiet dinner out before it’s off to Sunday brunch with the in-laws. Today’s women (and men) want hairstyles that reflect all aspects of their lives, and are demanding versatile cuts and targeted styling products that allow them to sport a sleek and sophisticated style one day, and funky and chunky the next.
“People want options in how they style their hair. That is the overriding theme, and that is what we are adapting to,” saidBrooke Carlson, vice president and general manager of Rusk, Inc. “They want to look one way on Monday and different on Friday night and different again on Saturday.”
According to Stephanie Sprankle, senior education development manager with PureOlogy, today’s hottest hairstyles offer women a “sophisticated wearable everyday look,” with “a second look that is designed to be more sassy.”
Leading manufacturers hope the versatility of today’s popular haircuts will entice customers to purchase more styling products. According to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 24, 2008, sales of hair sprays/spritzes rose 3% and styling mousse and gels were up 0.6%, combining for sales of just over $1.0 billion in supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers excluding Wal-Mart. In salons, styling product sales rose from $655 million in 2006 to $673 million in 2007, representing 2.7% growth, according to market research company Mintel.
What looks are women after? Think Veronica Lake. Hair is “about glamour now. Hair has nice soft waves. Even when it is in a ponytail it has an elegant, modern feel,” said Ms. Sprankle.
“We are going back to a more feminine approach,” agreed Todd Barnes, regional education manager with Rusk, Inc. According to Mr. Barnes, now that women have achieved a level of power in the workforce, they are showing their femininity. “Women can be alluring and sexy and softness is coming back to hair,” he said. “Volume is coming back and women are embracing natural textures and tones. It is more natural.”
“It is a natural look, but not without products,” added Ms. Carlson.
She’s right; products are very much a part of process. Research shows that women use on average three different styling products to create their desired style, not to mention an army of plug-in styling devices.
“As consumers try to achieve a certain look, they often need to use heat styling appliances like curling irons, flat irons and blow dryers, and daily use of these can take a toll on your hair,” commented Anne West, chief marketing officer of SSB LLC, the Chicago firm behind the recent rebirth of Salon Selectives.
|Charles Worthington London's Big Waves is a mass line for wavy hair.
In addition to traditional gels, mousses and sprays, marketers are touting leave-in products that set the stage for the styling processes.
Chemistry Salon Labs—a new brand from Beautology Brands Company—offers Prep hair priming blow-dry tonic, part of its eight-SKU line sold exclusively at Walgreen’s.
“Think of priming a wall before you paint to make it adhere better—Prep allows your styling aids to bond to the hair shaft without stripping the follicles,” said Stuart Straus, president and CEO of Beautology Brands, Chicago. “Plus you get the added benefit of quicker blow-dry time and a terrific uplifting fragrance; simply a great in-between step after you condition and before you begin styling,” said Mr. Straus.
You Go, Curl!
When it comes to creating elegant locks, curly hair presents its own set of challenges. Marketers are formulating specialized styling products for hair with texture.
Alluring Curls Curl Enhancing Styling Elixir is a new lightweight gel from Nexxus that delivers long-term curl definition. The formulation, which contains marsh mallow root, sweet almond protein and lavender and soy bean oils, maintains definition 94% after eight hours and 90% after 24 hours, according to the Alberto-Culver brand. Nexxus also offers new Gorgeous Curls Curl Enhancing Styling Foam, a lightweight styling foam that delivers similar benefits as the elixir.
One of the biggest challenges for curly hair is frizziness, and Joico is tackling the issue head on with Design Collection Humidity Blocker. The formulation contains Joico’s Total Defense Complex, a combination of lightweight polyurethane resins, UVA/UVB filters and Quadramine Complex—an exclusive blend of low molecular weight and size proteins that ensure maximum protection and reconstruction from the cuticle to the cortex.
Mass market brands Charles Worthington London and Sunsilk are addressing wavy hair, which can also be difficult to style.
Charles Worthington’s Big Waves line includes a definition crème that refines texture, increases hair’s resistance to heat-styling damage and leaves locks frizz-free and extra shiny. Big Waves is rounded out with shampoo, conditioner and a special spray that tames flyaways.
Riding high on the success of Sunsilk, Unilever is out to make an even bigger splash with three new Sunsilk Shower to Style collections. The Waves of Envy series includes Sea Mist—a two-part formula with sea salts that attract moisture to create a tousled look, held in place with special polymers. Another product is Gel & Cream Twist, which is housed in a first-to-mass package that holds the gel and cream separately in a single chamber. The proper amount of each is mixed together when dispensed, resulting in a sophisticated mix of the conditioning benefits of the cream and the hold of a gel, according to Unilever.
Today’s products are blurring the line between styler and treatment product. Chemists are crafting ingredient-rich formulations that balance science and nature to style and repair hair at the same time.
|Sunsilk's Waves of Envy includes Sea Mist for tousled style.
Nexxus may be taking styling products even further. Sleek Memory Straightening Smoothing Spray helps smooth and straighten hair, and Nexxus contends it will help hair stay smoother the longer it’s used. A mixture of silicones and polymers crosslink hair proteins to help make strands smoother and sleeker over time, and with continued use, freshly washed hair will be noticeably smoother, even before the use of straightening tools, according to the company.
The Men’s Market
Women aren’t the only ones who want versatile style and high-performance styling products.
“Men want to reshape their hair from when they are in office to when they go to the bar or a night event. They want something that is funkier,” said Julien Bouzitat, global director of marketing for hair care, styling and men’s with Redken.
According to Mr. Bouzitat, the trend in men’s hair is toward texture and separation with a matte finish. To achieve this “more rugged and urban” look, the company has added several new products including Redken for Men Outplay Texture Putty, a wax putty formula that shampoos out easily and is humidity resistant. Redken also touts Rough Clay 20 for short to medium styles on either gender. It features kaolin clay in an exclusive bonding system that coats hair and provides instant grab, density and a matte finish.
The Spray’s the Thing
Ever since the first commercial products appeared in the late 1940s and early 1950s, hair spray has remained a constant tool for stylists and consumers alike. Why? The answer is simple, say hair care experts: it’s easy to use.
“The consumer understands the application of hair spray, and what its purpose is,” said Todd Barnes, Rusk’s regional education manager. Some suggest that consumers are leery of heavier-weight styling products, such as waxes, pastes and pomades. “Hair spray is an equalizer,” said Brooke Carlson, vice president and general manager of Rusk, Inc. “Nobody has to feel daunted; there is no fear.”
“When the consumer gets her hair done, and she likes it, she wants to know that she can keep it that way,” added Mr. Barnes, whose company recently unveiled Being Sexy, a new extra-hold hair spray that “infuses the hair with texture, shine and touchable, long-lasting support.”
Top Sprays in Mass
Although hair spray has remained a mainstay in the styling category, its popularity waxes and wanes. Last year proved to be a good one for the segment. According to IRI, sales of spray/spritz products in food, drug and mass merchandisers (excluding Wal-Mart) rose 3%, compared to less than 1% growth posted by gels/mousses, according to IRI.
Category leaders include venerable mass brands and products with salon heritage. According to IRI data, the top spray for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 24, 2008 was Tresemme Tres Two ($32.9 million), followed by Suave ($26.4 million), Sebastian Shaper ($20.4 million), Salon Grafix ($18.5 million) and Dove ($14.99 million). Rounding out the top 10 were Garnier Fructis Style, Rave, Sebastian Shaper Plus and Aquanet.
No Helmet Heads Here
While hold remains paramount, new spray formulations offer greater flexibility, protection from the elements and enhanced shine, all of which work well with today’s modern hairstyles.
Bumble and Bumble has added new Spray de Mode, which the New York-based salon says began as “the brainchild of a Bb. haute couture hairdresser” who craved a quick-drying hairspray that could finish high fashion up-dos, yet stay flexible enough to shift shape during the course of a fashion show. The spray—formulated with glycerin for moisture retention and manageability and silicone for heat protection and shine—works with or without heat in tandem with other styling products.
“Spray de Mode’s a hairspray but because of its workable memory, hair can be brushed after application without fear of flaking then treated with a glossing crème like Brilliantine for a bit of texture and extra shine,” said Sabrina Michals, Bumble and Bumble editorial stylist. “It works great when misted onto hair just prior to styling with heat tools to provide medium hold. You can layer it to provide more hold and the formula seamlessly combines with other styling and finishing products.”
360° Volume is new a mass market flexible hold finishing spray that Nexxus contends locks in volume, gives hair movement and shine and provides 24-hour humidity resistance through a combination of panthenol, phytantriol and verbena extract. To make application even more user friendly, Nexxus opted for a 360° continuous spray valve that dispenses product even when the package is upside down.
Coming to market this month are two new sprays from Biolage. The first is Freeze Fix, a firm-hold, water-free hair spray that imparts shine and fights humidity. Shine Endure Spritz, another firm-hold product, is formulated with StrongStem technology, which provides heat protection, dries quickly and provides reflective shine.
By using its flagship barbershop/spa in Washington, D.C. as a working laboratory, Grooming Lounge has developed a line of shampoos, conditioners and styling products. The company opted for tongue-in-cheek product names that are “solution-focused” and resonate with men, according to founder Michael Gilman. The line includes Some Hair Goop, a pliable manipulation product for volume, shine and texture; Some Hair Stuff, which provides texture and hold without shine; and Some Hair Cream, a lightweight cream that moisturizes, protects, conditions and fights frizz.
L’Oréal has also taken a humorous approach to men’s hair styling. To promote its new Garnier Fructis Style Bold It collection, L’Oréal teamed with Avenue A|Razorfish an online viral campaign centered around the “The Harry Situation” blog, which spoofs heavy-handed product placement in television shows. The Fructis Style Bold It, which includes quick-dry Endurance Gel and Power Putty, targets men ages 18-34.
|Some Hair Goop and Some Hair Stuff are part of Grooming Lounge's new line of salon products for men.|
A stylist in the salon can soft sell a male client by educating him about the “differences between a wax, gel, putty, and grooming crème and the effects you get from them,” said Mr. Bouzitat. In addition to providing product and education to create cutting-edge styles, Redken helps salons build their businesses, providing advice and training that can help stylists communicate more effectively with male clientele. For example, when addressing a client whose hair is receding or thinning, a stylist would be better served by telling him how a specific styling product provides greater thickness, rather than saying it is a fix for thinning hair.
With more brands and choices in salons and at retail, competition is stiff in the styling products market. To succeed, companies must stay in touch with hairstyle trends and keep their product ranges relevant.
For example, despite a high level of awareness and name recognition (even after the line was canned by Unilever in 2004), SSB knew Salon Selectives needed some tweaking prior to its reintroduction this spring.
“When we acquired the brand, we actually developed the new line from scratch, based on today’s styling trends and consumer needs,” said Ms. West. “The original styling line consisted mainly of hairsprays, mousses and gels, but today’s styling category has many more product forms to achieve the looks that are popular now.”
Lubrizol’s Fixative Superhold Polymer Honored by Frost & Sullivan
Fixate Superhold polymer from Lubrizol Advanced Materials (Noveon Consumer Specialties) has been honored with a 2008 Frost & Sullivan Product Innovation Award in the hair fixative polymers segment of the personal care market.
According to Frost & Sullivan, Fixate Superhold polymer was honored for its “unique design, its degree of new end-user value-added attributes, its ability to drive consumer claims important in styling, the degree of formulator acceptance of the novel technology, and support services offered behind the technology.”
An independent study commissioned by Noveon Consumer Specialties showed that that hair fibers treated with Fixate Superhold polymer showed an average of 32% improvement in luster (shine) over those treated with PVP K-90, and a 34% increase in luster versus untreated hair fibers.
The revamped Salon Selectives styling line includes more modern products, such as a texture and shine molding wax and a root boosting spray, which features an extended nozzle that allows users to target the spray directly at the roots, for greater volume and lift.
At its peak, Salon Selectives commanded a 6.5% market share and annual sales of $275 million. What remains to be seen is whether Salon Selectives—one of the first salon-inspired mass brands—can regain prominence in a market that is home to more brands with true salon heritage, such as Nexxus, and popular newcomers like Sunsilk.
There are challenges ahead for companies in the salon sector too. Ownership continues to evolve as large corporations, looking for higher-margins, gobble up successful salon brands. Most recently, P&G announced plans to acquire luxury salon operator Frédéric Fekkai.
“Fekkai fits with P&G Beauty’s strategy of focusing on faster growing, higher-margin, more asset-efficient businesses. It further demonstrates our desire to win with key brands in the prestige channel,” said Randall Chinchilla, P&G Beauty spokesperson. “This channel complements P&G’s presence in retail and professional hair segments, increasing our ability to offer more products to more consumers in new channels. We see opportunities in establishing a joint vision that leverages the diverse set of skills of both organizations.”
One of Fekkai’s skills has been its ability to create cutting-edge styling products. Its newest range, Fekkai Coiff, features a limited-edition setting lotion used on runway models during New York Fashion Week as well as Contrôle Ironless Straightening Balm, a non-chemical balm that provides weightless straightening during the blow-drying process.
Another issue facing salon brands is the softening economy. Will foot traffic to salons—and subsequently product sales—slow? While some analysts tracking the salon business say sagging consumer confidence and the rising cost of everyday goods will hamper the market, industry insiders are more optimistic.
“If there is a recession, you never notice it in the salon world. People still want to look good,” said Ms. Sprankle.
Mr. Harrington echoed that sentiment. “There is evidence that because people are sacrificing on big ticket luxury items, they are unwilling to compromise on those items that are every day essentials which make them feel good about themselves,” said Mr. Harrington. “They may even forgo their second Starbuck’s of the day, but not their looks.”
Hair Styling New Ingredients
Here is a list of new hair styling ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.
For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.
Norwalk, CT 06850
INCI name: Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract
Applications: hair care, stressed and damaged hair products, conditioners
Use levels: 0.5-2.0%
Comments: Tego Galanga is a natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga by a patented extraction process. Kaempferia galanga is commonly used in southeast Asia for food (spice ingredient) and for traditional medicine (skin protectant). Tego Galanga is a natural source of ethyl p-methoxycinnamate. It provides excellent UV absorption and is an ideal ingredient for the protection of hair fibers and reduction of hair color fading due to UV radiation. A tensile strength study was conducted on single hair fibers to determine the efficacy of Tego Galanga. After application of a leave-in hair formulation, a 35% increase in tensile strength was recorded. It should be added to the oil phase of the formulation and is an excellent choice to provide hair protection against UV rays.
INCI name: Salicylic acid, leptospemone, isoleptospemone, flavesone, water, salix alba (willow) bark extract, methylpropanediol, polysorbate 80,
Use levels: 0.25-1.0%
Applications: hair care, scalp treatment products, shampoos
Comments: Trikenol is a botanically-derived complex that has been proven effective in treating problems associated with dry and oily scalps. Specifically, Trikenol combines the activity of a manuka concentrate (Leptospermum scoparium) with enriches salicylic compounds derived from willow extract (Salix alba). Excessive scalp flakiness is often associated with seborrhea and inflammation, attributed to the proliferation of lipoplilic yeast. The unique combination of active ingredients in Trikenol has been proven effective against the bacterial proliferation, irritation and seborrheic effects of these organisms. An in vivo efficacy study, using shampoo containing 1% Trikenol and a placebo, conducted showed the effectiveness of Trikenol in the reduction of scalp dryness and oiliness. The one month study evaluated seborrhea, itchiness, redness and presence of skin lesions. Sebumetric measurements yielded a significant decrease of scalp sebum (µg/cm3) by 57%. Test subjects using Trikenol also showed reduction in area of redness, itchiness and skin lesions. It can be incorporated into transparent or opalescent shampoos and hair lotions at usage levels between 0.25-1.0%.
High Point, NC
Tel: 1-336-801- 2000
Ciba Tinovis Ade
INCI Name: Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6
Applications: To thicken non surfactant based hair care products
Use levels: 0.05-0.2%
Comments: This product provides cold process, instantaneous thickening with excellent shear thinning capabilities helpign to evenly distribure the styling actives from root to tip.
Ciba Tinovis CD
INCI Name: Dimethylacrylamide/ethyl-trimonium chloride methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (and) C10-C11 isoparaffin
Applications: Thickener and conditioner
Use levels: 0.4-3.0%
Comments: In addition to excellent rheology control, Ciba Tinovis CD delivers “focused conditioning” to where the hair needs it most without excess deposition that can result in a heavy, greasy feel. Ciba Tinovis CD provides a soft, silky feel without build up and leaves the hair healthy looking and easy to comb when wet or dry. In addition, it works synergistically with other formulation actives, aiding in their even distribution and deposition on the hair to help improve the efficacy of your formulation.
Tel: (800) 531-0815
Cosmedia CTH(E) Cationic rheology-control additive
INCI Name: Polyquarternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6
Applications: Conditioning, thickening andstabilizing for skin and hair care
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Cosmedia CTH(E) is a cationic liquid dispersion polymer. It is a rheology-control additive and facilitates the preparation of skin and hair care emulsions. Due to its liquid form, Cosmedia CTH(E) allows cold mixing and can be easily added at any stage of the manufacturing process without pH neutralization. It contributes to the suspension and stabilization of other ingredients because of the excellent thickening performance. The cationic nature provides substantivity to skin and hair, resulting in excellent conditioning performance and a superior sensorial profile.
Cosmedia ATH Anionic rheology-control additive
INCI Name: Sodium polyacrylate (and) ethylhexyl stearate (and) trideceth-6
Applications: Conditioning, thickening and stabilizing for skin and hair care
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Cosmedia ATH is an anionic liquid dispersion polymer. It is a rheology-control additive and facilitates the preparation of skin care emulsions. Due to its liquid form, Cosmedia ATH allows cold mixing and can be easily added at any stage of the manufacturing process without pH neutralization. It contributes to the suspension and stabilization of other ingredients because of the excellent thickening performance. The anionic nature provides a superior sensorial profile, giving skin softness.
Ultragel 300 Cationic powder grade thickeners
INCI Name: Polyquarternium-37
Use levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Conditioning, thickening & stabilizing for skin and hair care
Comments: Ultragel 300 is a cationic polymer for rheology control in hair and skin care preparations. This polymer has not only been accepted for crystal-clear formulations, but has also become a preferred thickener for creams and lotions. It comes in powder form and because it consists of spherical particles, the final products feel very pleasant on skin. The product disperses easily, does not require neutralization or heating and may be added at any time right up to the final stages of the manufaturing process. Its cationic nature provides substantivity to hair, resulting in excellent conditioning performance and improved hair combability.
Tel: (732) 417-0800
INCI Name: Water (and) sodium laureth-40 maleate/styrene sulfonate copolymer
Use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Heat protecting sprays, clear gels, spritzes, mousses, serums, shampoos and conditioners
Comments: Mirustyle X-HP is a styling agent that radically reduces the damaging effects of thermal styling tools, while delivering impressive style and hold.
Desert Whale Jojoba Company
Tel: (520) 882-4195
Fax: (520) 882-7821
INCI Name: Jojoba alcohol (and) potassium jojobate (and) butylene glycol
Use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Anti-frizz gel, conditioning spray, detangler
Comments: Jojoba Hydrate acts as the primary emulsifier in a formulation. It provides conditioning, improves combability and increases shine in the hair.
Jojoba Pro – HP
INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein
Use levels: 1-6%
Applications: Conditioning spray, shampoo
Comments: Jojoba Pro–HP is a non-allergenic, non-irritating jojoba protein that imparts moisturization and shine to the hair.
Jojoba Glaze – LV, HV, EV
INCI Name: Simmondsia chinesis (jojoba oil) seed oil and ethylene/propylene/ styrene copolymer and butylene/ ethylene/styrene copolymer
Use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Shine-in sprays, hair gel (anhydrous)
Comments: Jojoba Glaze is a transparent, colorless viscous gel offered in three viscosities. It is excellent at adding shine to hair.
Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation
Abil Quat UV 50
INCI Name: Polysilicon-19
Applications: Silicone for UV protection and long lasting color protection of dyed hair
Use Level: 1-5%
Abil Soft AF 100
INCI Name: Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimenthicone
Applications: Self emulsifying in aqueous systems with improvement body and volume of hair:
Use Level: 0.1-2.0%
Abil B 8843
INCI Name: PEG-14 dimethicone
Applications: Plastisizing agent for hair styling polymers
Use Level: 0.5%-3.0%
International Specialty Products
Tel: (973) 628-4000
INCI Name: Polyquaternium-69
Use Levels: 1-5% active
Applications: Positioned for clear and cream gels (could be added to aerosol and non-aerosol mousses, styling lotions, and sprays)
Comments: AquaStyle 300 is a next-generation styling gel polymer that meets the demands of today’s market. It delivers enhanced styling benefits versus traditional hair gel systems. Studies show that it imparts strong, durable, flexible all-day hold, increased shine and luster, frizz control, and improved high-humidity curl resistance. It provides positive interaction with hydrophobically modified gellants to deliver gel clarity and synergistic thickening. It also meets low VOC requirements.
INCI Name: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer
Use levels: 0.25-2.5% (use level depends on formula type/application)
Applications: Clear gels, spray gels, cream gels, hair color applications, anti-frizz/ shine/smoothing creams
Comments: UltraThix P-100 is a multi-benefit, patented rheology modifier that delivers shear-thinning rheological properties with yield value and positive sensory perception. At a use level of only 1%, research shows that UltraThix P-100 effectively provides enhanced styling benefits, such as natural hold with high-humidity curl retention and restylability of hair with easy combing and no flaking, allowing for the formulation of cost-effective styling gels.
INCI Name: Polyimide-1
Use Levels: 0.75-4% active
Applications: Styling gels, spray gels, stylers to deliver volume, styling lotions, pomades, creams, spray mousses
Comments: Aquaflex XL-30 is a volumizing styling resin with long-lasting hold. It is designed for alcohol-free styling. ISP studies have shown that Aquaflex XL-30 delivers consumer-perceivable volume boosting. When dry, it delivers clear, smooth film on hair. In addition, it provides for durable, touchable hold with style memory and humidity resistance from styling formulations.
INCI Name: Dimethicone and bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Applications: Hair emulsions
Use Level: 2-5%
Comments: This non-crosslinked silicone polymer adds shine and conditioning and leaves hair feeling smooth and silky. The polymer adds volume to the hair but does not leave a greasy feel.
INCI Name: Polyethylene
Applications: Hair balms, hair wax sticks
Use Level: 2-10%
Comments: Adds structure to any type of wax-based hair care product. A predominantly linear polyethylene with a very low concentration of branched components ensures enhanced efficacy at thickening traditional cosmetic oils and silicones. A low level will eliminate “sweating” in any wax-based product.
INCI Name: Hexylene glycol and PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, gels, sprays, styling products, mousses, balms, wax sticks
Use Level: 2-10%
Comments: A universal co-solubilizer. Specifically formulated in a ratio that optimizes the solubilization of oil-based ingredients in water-based hair care products and the solubilization of water-based ingredients in oil-based products. Useful for solubilizing fragrances in water-based products and for solubilizing water-based herbal or active ingredients in anhydrous stick products.
Tel: (800) 432-7187
INCI Name: PEG-50 shea butter
Applications: Conditioners, spray conditioners, masks, mousses, shampoos
Use Level: 1-5%
Comments: An ethoxylated version of shea butter that is fully miscible in water. Lumulse Shea-50 provides the softening and satin after-feel of shea butter in water-based applications with the formulating ease of a nonionic ethoxylate. It cleans, softens and adds shine to hair.
INCI Name: Polysorbate 60, octododecyl erucate, capric/caprylic triglyceride, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-8 dioleate, sorbitan laurate, glyceryl oleate
Applications: Shampoos, sprays, conditioners, gels, mousses as a detangler, conditioner and shine enhancer
Use Levels: 1- 5%
Comments: A blend of emollients and emulsifiers that easily disperses into a microemulsion with minimal heating and mixing.
Encura EB-100 aides in emulsification of essential oils and fragrances and provides excellent softening, smoothing and soothing capabilities.
INCI Name: Octododecyl erucate
Applications: Conditioners, spray conditioners, shampoos, masks, mousses and hot oil treatments for conditioning, softening, detangling; provides shine and luster.
Use Levels: 0.2-3%
Comments: A vegetable-derived, multi-functional emollient that imparts an enhanced richness to formulations. Erucial EG-20 provides shine and luster in hair care formulations and can also be used as a jojoba oil extender in these formulations.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ 07504
INCI Name: Phytosteryl macadamiate
Applications: Skin care and hair care
Use Levels: 1-10%
Comments: Excellent moisturizing ability, improves skin hydration and skin conductance, moist, supple and smooth to hair, excellent gloss and moist appearance.
INCI Name: Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide
Applications: A unique treatment product ideal for skin care and hair care
Use Levels: .02-.5%
Comments: High moisturizing effect. Higher water holding capability than hyaluronic acid, non-sticky.
INCI Name: Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Applications: A unique treatment product ideal for leave-in hair conditioners and styling aids.
Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Five times the water binding capacity of hyaluronic acid, free radical scavenger, stabilization of actives.
McIntyre Group, LTD
University Park, IL
INCI Name: Water, polyquaternium-11, VP/VA copolymer, butoxyethanol, soyamide DEA, PPG-30 cetyl ether, oleth-3-phosphate, panthenol, amodimethicone, trideceth-12, cetrimonium chloride, PEG-12 dimethicone
Applications: This specialty blend is ideal for leave-in products like styling sprays and conditioners.
Use Levels: 15-20%
Comments: Mackconditioner LCB-II is an easy-to-use liquid concentrate that combines cationic surfactants, film-forming and fixative agents, humectants, emollients and functional silicone materials to aid in styling, reduce frizz and improve shine, combability and detangling. It also provides maximum curl definition and lasting style retention without stiffness or greasiness.
National Starch Personal Care
Celquat LS-50 polymer
INCI Name: Polyquaternium-4/ hydroxypropyl starch copolymer
Applications: Hair mousse, hair lotions, hair creams, hair spray gels
Use Levels: 2-4%
Comments: Delivers color protection, curl definition and hair style
Noveon Consumer Specialties,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Fixate Superhold Polymer
INCI name: Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer
Applications: Gel, mousse, wax, cream, pump spray
Use levels: 1.0-4.0 wt% total solids
Comments: Fixate Superhold polymer provides super hard, stiff hold and superior humidity resistance to wet styling products. It enables the creation of cost effective, low-to-high viscosity styling products with high clarity, shine, flake resistance, superior texture and aesthetics.
Fixate Plus Polymer
INCI name: Polyacrylate-14
Applications: Gel, wax, cream
Use levels: 0.5-1.0 wt% total solids
Comments: Fixate Plus polymer provides styling plus rheology benefits, and was designed to improve style longevity while enhancing aesthetics and sensory properties. Fixate Plus polymer enables the creation of cost-effective, medium-to-high viscosity styling products with exceptional humidity resistance and weightless, touchable hold.
Fixate G-100 Polymer
INCI name: AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer
Applications: Gel, mousse, wax, cream, pump spray
Use levels: 0.5-3.0 wt% total solids
Comments: Fixate G-100 polymer is a novel acrylate hair fixative polymer that provides excellent humidity resistance and low flaking. It can be used in a wide range of styling applications for soft, touchable hold or a firm finish.
Schercemol TISC Ester
INCI name: Triisostearyl citrate
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care, hair care
Use levels: 0.5-50 wt% depending on product form
Comments: The shine and durability of Schercemol TISC ester make it a popular choice for lip care formulations, and is also used in hair care where gloss and substantivity is required.
Wacker Chemical Corporation
Wacker-Belsil P 101
INCI Name: Crotonic acid/vinyl C8-12 isoalkyl esters/VA/bis-vinyldimethicone crosspolymer
Applications: Hair fixative/hair styling
Use Levels: 3-6% actives
Comments: Provides the soft touch of silicones with the strong hold of organic fixatives in a flexible yet strong styling copolymer.