Features

Fast Forward

April 30, 2008

Accelerating the Future conference boasts triple-tier track devoted to anti-aging, naturals and special dermal needs.

Fast Forward



Accelerating the Future conference boasts triple-tier track devoted to anti-aging, naturals and special dermal needs.



Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor



Anti-aging, naturals and special dermal needs in personal care are set to skyrocket in the next few years, according to industry insiders at Grayson Associates’ recent “Accelerating the Future” conference.
  
The two-day, triple-tier event held March 17-18 at the Sheraton Towers Hotel in New York City focused on burgeoning technology and the next wave of new ingredients, as seen in almost 50 sessions and 40 corporate exhibits. The conference was concluded by a seminar, “Beauty Advertising: The ‘Ingredients’ of Good and Bad Ads,” presented by Happi columnist and event co-presenter Suzanne Grayson.

Maintaining Beauty



The ingredient and technology conference kicked off with a keynote presentation in the anti-aging category from Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, Dermatology Consulting Services, regarding what’s next in dermatologic innovations. The session also examined universal concepts of female beauty—for example, high cheekbones and facial symmetry—and how dermatologic techniques restore balance to a maturing face.
    
“Do we want to look like perpetual teenagers?” Dr. Draelos asked the crowd. “Or is there a different goal in mind?” Aging gracefully is the ultimate ideal, according to Dr. Draelos, by looking better than one’s chronologic age. Advances in topical products—like aquaporins or resveratrol—as well as “the filler frontier” generate timeless beauty.
    
There are a variety of fillers on the market today, noted Dr. Draelos, from the “new yet controversial” permanent fillers like PMMA Spheres—which paved the way for Sculptura (Poly-L-Lactic acid hydrogel)—to the popular hyaluronic acid, which “moves right and feels right.”
    
All in all, there is tremendous opportunity for new innovations in beauty-boosting dermatological methods.
    
Also on the anti-aging track was Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., technical manager, ISP Global Research Center, who presented “Mitochondria Protection: New Developments in Anti-Aging Research.” According to Ms. Imbert, mitochondria are “cellular power plants” that provide energy to the skin. These cellular organelles possess their own genetic material and the capacity to produce their own RNA and proteins.
    
Ms. Imbert noted that mitochondria are of particular interest to the field of anti-aging research, as mitochondrial aging is involved in a reduction of signal transduction, which leads to a decrease in cellular metabolism and protein synthesis. Since the skin is exposed to external stress over time, Ms. Imbert showed the effects of UV light on mitochondria by using a MitoTracker device. She also explained how aconitase is a key enzyme in the protection of the mitochondrial genome and how antioxidants are necessary to protect the skin tone.
    
In conclusion, actives, specially adapted to mitochondria functions, are required in innovating anti-aging approaches.
   
“Links between aging and oxidative stress are certainly not new,” said Ms. Imbert. “Besides, there is much debate over whether mitochondrial changes are merely characteristics of aging or if they actually cause aging. All in all, mitochondria have a key role in the process of aging.”

Beneficial Ingredients



Later on in the realm of anti-aging, Arthur Georgalas, director of new technologies, Kemira, delivered a presentation on phytoactive delivery systems and how botanicals benefit the skin. According to Mr. Georgalas, there are over 250,000 species of higher plants available as sources for extracts. These “phytococktails” are formulated to work in a wide range of finished skin care products.
    
Active ingredients like Astraforce are designed to address skin challenges in all age groups, and “the next generation antioxidant” detoxphane help prevent damage from UV rays, as discussed by Mr. Georgalas at the session.
    
The final presentation in the anti-aging category for the day was from Karl Lintner, managing director, Sederma, with “Calcium: the New Gold Standard?” According to Mr. Lintner, mature skin suffers particularly from essential nutrient deficiencies of minerals, vitamins and amino acids, causing signs of aging. One of the principal micronutrients involved in skin renewal is calcium (in ionic form), whose distribution gradient becomes deficient with older age. Essenskin is a new ingredient designed to address these nutrient deficiencies.

The Link to Health



On the second day of “Accelerating the Future,” Joanna Newton, Ph.D., senior industry specialist, Dow Corning, presented an overview of managing aging skin through a variety of solutions and technologies. According to Ms. Newton, there is a range of silicone and organic delivery systems on the market today that protect the skin and prevent aging. For example, a silicone elastomer blend fills skin imperfections by forming small, soft microparticles.
    
Ms. Newton also discussed delivery aids for sunscreens and the distribution of actives via vesicular systems. The latter allows the stabilization and protection of cosmetic actives into the skin’s surface.   
   
In conclusion, it is important to understand the needs of today’s health and beauty market, says Ms. Newton. The qualities of “visible and vital,” where the consumer wants to look and feel her best at any age; as well as “prevent and protect,” are key in the field. “Silicones used as functional delivery ingredients and in combination with other materials and vector systems can play an important role in formulating elegant anti-aging products with improved efficacy and a distinctive feel,” said Ms. Newton.
    
In the category of naturals, the benefits of Amazonian oils and active ingredients from the Brazilian rainforest was divulged by Dennis Boyd, business director of cosmetic and personal care at Jarchem Innovative Ingredients. These ingredients have been shown to be effective antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and exfoliating agents. Popular oils such as acai and brazil nut fall into the category, as well as novel butters such as cupuacu, murumuru and ucuuba. Amazonian white clay used in exfoliants is also a groundbreaking ingredient, according to Mr. Boyd.
 

All’s Well That Ends Well



“Accelerating the Future” concluded with a session regarding beauty advertising with Ms. Grayson, who talked about how new products only come alive when the creative execution of the product strategy breathes life into ads. This session explored the Happi columinst’s analysis print ads, as seen in each of the three tracks.
    
All in all, if beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that beholder is the personal care industry, the future does look luminous indeed.


Looking Ahead...


Ride the Next Natural Wave, a new two-conference and exhibit devoted to the natural, organic and green movement, will be held Oct. 21 and 22 at the Hilton hotel in New York City. The event, developed by Grayson Associates, is devoted to the latest ingredients and technology based solely on natural, organic and green inputs. The three-track program will cover:
                   • Anti-Aging,
                   • Color Cosmetics/Hair Care and
                   • All Face and Body Skin and Sun Care.
 
"With the pressure to develop innovative new products continuing to escalate dramatically, there is an qually-corresponding need to satisfy the voracious appetite for information on new ingredients and technology for research and development management and formulators," said Dr. Robert A. Grayson, Grayson Associates.

Because the accelerating skin care market growth is coming from
increasing segmentation to better target and satisfy consumer needs, conferees may move between tracks to pick specific presentations according to their special needs. 

More info: Robert Grayson, bob@graysonassociates.com  949-487-9970.
blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Pushin’ the Cushion

    Pushin’ the Cushion

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 26, 2016
    AmorePacific, the creator of the cushion compact, continues to improve its unique product.

  • Cozy Makes a Splash

    Cozy Makes a Splash

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||July 25, 2016
    Expands reach in CVS and introduces new collection.

  • Senior Skin Care

    Senior Skin Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 19, 2016
    McCord Research and Product Quest Manufacturing roll out new hospital-grade skin care kits for seniors to use at home.

  • Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Industry stakeholders convene in New York City for Organic Monitor’s annual event

  • Perceived Perfection

    Perceived Perfection

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    From primers to pressed powders, facial cosmetics help create the illusion of a flawless complexion.

  • Preserve & Serve

    Preserve & Serve

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Suppliers with innovative preservatives provide staying power for formulations.

  • Quaternized Guar Is a Natural Solution

    Quaternized Guar Is a Natural Solution

    Tom Schoenberg, Schoenberg Consulting||July 1, 2016
    The polymer has applications in a range of skin and hair care formulas that does not build up on hair with repeated use

  • The Top 50

    The Top 50

    June 30, 2016
    A look at the biggest US companies in the global household and personal products industry.

  • Take Notice

    Take Notice

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Packaging trends revolve around trendy artwork, eco-conscious materials—and portability is a plus too!

  • Virtual Reality

    Virtual Reality

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    An update on nature-identical ingredients for cosmetics and personal care products.

  • Shiseido Advances in the US

    Shiseido Advances in the US

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    New facility in Windsor, NJ demonstrates its dedication to the US and other markets outside Japan.

  • Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Experts at the IRI Growth Summit explain how to make personal connections with customers.

  • For the Love of Lipids

    For the Love of Lipids

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    AOCS and SCC to deliver a program geared to cosmetic chemists of the important role that fats and oils play in a healthy skin

  • April in Paris

    April in Paris

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    In-Cosmetics sets attendance record in its return to the City of Light.

  • Salon Selectives

    Salon Selectives

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    The inside story about what stylists think about the state of the industry and the state of your products and ingredients.

  • New Skin Care Ingredients

    May 13, 2016
    Here is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers

  • Erasing the Signs of Aging

    Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely, David Boudier, Sylvain Mazalrey, Jenny Laumonier, Isabelle Cruz, Gu00e9raldine Bon, Karine Perrinet, Bu00e9ranger Tassy, Brigitte Closs, Silab R&D, Saint-Viance, France||May 2, 2016
    Silab researchers explain how by acting on the endogenous hyaluronic acid pathway.

  • Bite Now

    Bite Now

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Is the time finally right for beauty-from-within to move into the mainstream?

  • Boxed Out?

    Boxed Out?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||May 2, 2016
    Salon sales outpace mass-market results in the highly competitive, highly fashionable and yes, highly-colorful hair color cat

  • That’s Awesome!

    That’s Awesome!

    May 2, 2016
    Extracts & Ingredients highlights the newest ideas in efficacious oils for the personal care market.

  • Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||May 2, 2016
    The silicone maker had a good 2015 and expects the gains to continue in 2016, driven, in part, by success in the Americas and

  • I Want It All

    I Want It All

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Skin care moves beyond the basics with pampering formulations with unique components and novel functions.

  • Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Established brands and start-ups address the needs of multi-cultural beauty consumers.

  • Who Makes That?

    Who Makes That?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    From concept and formulation to testing and filling, today’s contract manufacturers perform a range of services for marketers

  • The Zika Threat

    The Zika Threat

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Concerns are spreading about transmission of this mosquito-borne disease.

  • The New Spot For Acne Care

    The New Spot For Acne Care

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    Acne Treatment Research Center opens in Morristown, NJ.

  • The Essence of Individuality

    The Essence of Individuality

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Fragrance sales are fueled by unique facets.

  • The Scalp Microbiome

    The Scalp Microbiome

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||April 1, 2016
    A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders.