|The look for Fall 2008, as seen at Prescriptives.
Fall’s color cosmetics draw inspiration straight from the fashion runways.
By Melissa Meisel
At the end of summer, temperatures dip in the evening and green leaves slowly morph into shades of amber and gold. The cooling of autumn looms on the horizon. With thoughts of cozy sweaters, woolen mittens and UGG boots in the minds of seasonal shoppers, so is the desire to try some new cosmetics that complement fall fashion looks—and it shows in the numbers.
Color cosmetics reigns supreme in the prestige beauty industry with 38% of the market share—beating out the skin care and fragrance categories, according to consumer information provider The NPD Group of Port Washington, NY. In fact, two out of every five dollars spent on prestige beauty products are in the makeup category. In 2007, prestige makeup sales rose to $3.4 billion, an increase of almost half a billion dollars or 17% in the past five years, according to NPD.
“During challenging economic times in 2007, the prestige beauty industry managed to rise above the negatives,” said Karen Grant, NPD senior beauty industry analyst. “Women and men are still willing to spend money on products that make them look and feel better.”
The market research firm also revealed that the number of prestige lipglosses has quadrupled since 2000. Lipgloss generates nearly $200 million annually, and more than 800 new prestige eyeshadow shades have launched since 2003. Furthermore, growth in 2007 came from staple makeup products like mascara and foundation; while mineral makeup sales have increased by more than 30 times since 2003, as seen in brands like Bare Escentuals and Jane Iredale as well as mass market rollouts from Revlon and Maybelline.
In fact, total sales of the cosmetics category (face/lip/eye) were $2.56 billion in supermarkets, drugstores and mass-market retailers excluding Wal-Mart, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), a Chicago-based market research firm in a report ending May 18, 2008. Facial cosmetics rose 1.5% to $1 billion this year, while eye cosmetics climbed 3.4% to $982.7 million and lip cosmetics dropped 5.2% to $582.9 million in 2007.
“Consumers are looking for wearable color, superb quality and convenience at a reasonable price,” said Krystyne Biser, product development, Revlon, New York, NY. “They are extremely savvy. Pair that with the economy in its current state, and you have a more challenging environment. People are really considering every purchase so you need to be able to offer products that deliver what you claim.”
Back in Time
The Fall 2008 face is “enchanted, ladylike with a touch of mystery, a vision of glamour and smoldering sensuality,” said Ms. Biser of Revlon. Her company’s shade palette for the season features hues ranging from “deep smoldering berries, velvety crimsons to lush whisper pinks and nudes.”
Reds, burgundies, purples and browns also dominate one of M·A·C’s Fall 2008 rollouts, Cult of Cherry. And, the latest Inspiree Limited Edition Collection from Paul & Joe Beauté, sold at Bergdorf Goodman, features autumn tones of brown, beige and mauve.
“Summer’s bright, bold and vivacious palette is replaced by rich plums, burgundies and smoky metallics for Fall 2008. Color is still a focus, but tones become deeper, mature jewel tones,” said Craig-Ryan French, lead product advisor for research and development at Paul & Joe Beaute, Toronto, Canada.
At Avon, the Jillian Dempsey for Avon Fall 2008 Retro Charm Collection was inspired by the season’s vintage runway styles. Key looks for the season include expressive eyes in dark tones with touches of warm gold and soft, fresh cheeks. Lips can be understated with a hit of color, from brick red to classic nude.
“Retro Charm blends soft, neutral shades with edgier, darker colors for a fashion–forward yet wearable look,” said Ms. Dempsey. “Vintage touches in application like a nude lip add a retro twist to modern shades.”
Bobbie Brown’s aptly-titled Fall 2008 collection, Mauve, also features “vintage-inspired hues with a modern twist,” according to the company. Headlined by the Mauve Face Palette, featuring cool neutral shades for cheeks, eyes and lips, the collection’s colors include various brownish-pinks—from an exclusive chocolate mauve eyeshadow to a dusty mauve creamy lipstick.
Ultimately, Fall 2008 is about blending “the bold with the cold,” according to Tina Perez, vice president of global marketing, Markwins International.
“As fashions stay strong with distinctive looks and focused color direction, cosmetics will complement and counter balance. The image of a strong woman, self-assured and confident emerges through her clothing and accessories but she maintains her purity and simplicity through her makeup,” she added.
Kiss and Tell
Glossy textures in darker shades of lip color complement the seasonal eye’s dusky hues. “Sultry lips are always sexy, so this fall I’m introducing four new lip vinyls in berry shades that will add substantial sheen and reflective fullness,” said Vincent Longo, chief executive officer and creative director for Vincent Longo, New York, NY. His Fall/Winter 2008 collection is called “Edited Highlights,” inspired by the women of Italian cinema.
|Colossal eyelashes are hot!
Longwearing formulas are also a Fall 2008 mainstay, as seen at Clinique. According to Beth Mumm-Sgarlato, director, makeup, Clinique Global Product Development, this season Clinique is revamping “one of the most popular makeup trends of all with a contemporary, sophisticated upgrade.” Clinique’s Modern Matte collection, which is launching on counter this fall, pairs the matte eye with a soft satin lip in shades with low pearl for more dimension.
The star of this collection is the new High Impact Lip Colour SPF 15. Said Ms. Mumm-Sgarlato, “It’s a chic lipstick that delivers superior color and moisturization. It’s long-wearing, feather-resistant and has stay-true color all while helping to provide protection from the sun’s harmful rays—the perfect marriage of beauty and protection.”
Besides making a visual statement, lip products are also featuring flavor-packed formulations, exemplified by Cover Girl’s new Wetslicks AmazeMint, a collection of Crest Peppermint Oil-infused lipglosses that provide high shine in 13 hues. An added bonus: blue undertones in the Cover Girl AmazeMint shades Plum Crazy, Un-Wined and Toast-ed are said to visually brighten the smile, according to the company.
Urban Decay is rolling out a line of high-shine and shimmering lipsticks for Fall 2008 that infuses a paraben-free formula with a crème caramel flavor—adding aroma without any fragrances, according to the company.
The Eyes Have It
The season’s smoldering eye color is pumped up for evening with bold black mascara and eyeshadows that can double as an eyeliner. Maybelline New York is rolling out its Colossal Volum’ Express mascara, a first-to-mass product that combines a collagen formula and an “utterly enormous” brush for an estimated nine times the volume of standard mascara. To enhance the dramatic look and ensure maximum eye-opening impact, Colossal is available in two shades of black for day and night looks.
Bare Escentuals is also embracing an onyx gaze with its BareMinerals Rocker Eye kit for Fall 2008. The fifth installment in BareMinerals educational Tutorials category, BareMinerals Rocker Eye features two smoky-hued BareMinerals Eyecolors, a BareMinerals Liner Shadow in black, a custom Double-Ended Rock ‘N’ Roll Brush for expert application and a detachable tip card with detailed step-by-step application instructions for a backstage pass to the Rocker Eye.
Drama is definitely a buzzword for the season, as seen at Rimmel. The company’s latest release, Glam’Eyes Mascara, is touted as a bold, creamy mascara that gives lashes sensational volume and extreme length as never before. Its VolumFlex brush defines and creates flirtier lashes that are said to look up to 10 times fuller.
“Fall always inspires a deeper, stronger, intense color on the eye and this season it is based around a fall version of the coppers, bronzes, golds, brown and burgundies with bursts of purples,” said Jo Strettell, a professional makeup artist for Rimmel. “Another angle is the gun metal and silver grays tweaked with black.”
Bold color would be nothing without staying power. For Fall 2008, Elizabeth Arden is releasing Double Intrigue Eyes, a collection of shades for eyes to shape, shadow, line and define, packed in limited edition compacts imprinted with one of Miss Arden’s most famous beauty maxims, “To be beautiful and natural is the birthright of every woman.“ The Double Intrigue Eyes collection also features new Advanced Eye-Fix Primer. Applied under eyecolor, the formula primes eyelids and extends eyeshadow wear.
Concentrated colors are also an autumn must-have for the eyes, as seen at Cover Girl. Its Eye Enhancers, a new shade story of intensely-hued pressed eye powders. With a palette designed by P&G creative director Pat McGrath, the collection offers “modern finishes that take their cue from the runways.” Colors range from light to dark for subtle and natural to an intense and smoky eye, according to the company.
And, to make peepers pop even further, DuWop is debuting its EyeCatcher Pencils—eyeliners that use basic color theory to make blue eyes bluer, green eyes greener and brown eyes richer. Each EyeCatcher is said to utilize complementary colors to set off the color of the iris. The eyeliners also contain flecks of metallic shimmer to pick up highlights, further intensifying eye color.
Skin Is In
Besides bold eyes and creamy lips, Fall 2008 is also about cosmetic innovation by way of skin tone, according to Stacy Simmons, product development manager, Lorac Cosmetics, Inc., Valencia, CA. “We have been seeing natural formulas with more pigment now and a better quality feel. We have also seen a back-to-the-basics approach, improving basics with new innovative textures and delivery systems,” she said.
|Fall Dimensions quad.
True-to-hue makeup is also really big right now. The latest from Revlon is a new collection of makeup, Revlon Beyond Natural. The eight products in the line are said to work together to “diffuse imperfections and spotlight features for a look that’s naturally glamorous, never overdone” with a lightweight formulas and coordinated shades. One standout in the collection is Skin Matching Makeup, a lightweight foundation with ingredients that adjust to match skin tone. Just five shades cover a wide range of hues, from light to dark.
A smooth base is also imperative for a put-together face. For Fall 2008, Shiseido will debut its Makeup Perfect Smoothing Compact Foundation that is said to adhere seamlessly to the skin. The formula features “micro-coating technology with an innovative flexible smoothing powder” to create a flawless application. The foundation powder particles are made ultra-fine and coated with oil for maximum spreadability, while the smoothing powder changes shape to disguise uneven surface areas. The product is also formulated with moisturizing ingredients like royal jelly extract and vitamin C and E complex.
“Skin for the season will look like smooth satin; not shiny, but not flat, with an emphasis on looking flawless,” said Theresa Robison, vice president of sales and marketing for Jane Iredale, Great Barrington, MA. In step with the trend, Jane Iredale’s latest release is Dream Tint, a mineral-based, SPF-infused tinted moisturizer that doubles as a foundation.
So, how do the leading cosmetics companies find inspiration for the shades, textures and styles each season?
According to Jodi Bronstein, executive director of marketing, Prescriptives, New York, NY, “Our ‘All Skins’ positioning is key in helping us determine shades that will work on all ethnicities. We do market research to determine what shades are in demand for foundations, powders, concealers and more and work to meet every need in the market.”
|Cover Girl's latest lipglosses feature mint flavoring.
Ms. Bronstein adds that the head of the Prescriptives product development team attends several fashion shows each season. In addition, her squadron works with trend houses and companies that identify key trends of the season.
“We then determine what trends make sense with our brand positioning and select a top trend for the look we feature,” said Ms. Bronstein.
At Stila Cosmetics, the artistry and product development teams work backstage at New York City Fashion Week to find the next big craze. According to Sarah Lucero, global director of artistry and education, Stila, Glendale, CA, “We work with different designers and fine tune our vision to fit with their fashion trend, as makeup is just as important as the clothes. You should always update your makeup wardrobe along with your fall or spring trend wardrobe.”
For this season, Stila will launch the makeup look created for Marchesa’s Fall 2008 runway show—exclusively at Sephora—as the Stila Backstage Beauty Collection. The collection features three limited-edition palettes designed in faux patent with wrapped faux leather rosettes, referencing some of the “key juxtapositions” presented in the Marchesa collection. Each palette includes one matte eyeshadow, two shimmer shadows and black kohl eyeliner to recreate a sweet, feminine eye seen on the runway.
Some fashion designers, like premium denim label Rock & Republic, are making a foray into cosmetics with their own makeup collections this season. The brand will launch a 116-item color cosmetics collection this September. According to the company, the Rock & Republic cosmetics line was developed in-house over a three-year period.
Benefit Unveils Sister Product to Benetint
In 1977, a star was born—Benetint, a rose-tinted lip and cheek stain from Benefit of San Francisco, CA. Today, the product is a cult classic in the beauty realm.
Now, 31 years later, its sister shade is making a debut for Fall 2008—Posietint ($28), the same lip-and-cheek multi-tasking product in a new liqui-gel formula with a fresh poppy pink hue.
More info: www.benefitcosmetics.com
Trends around the globe are also another founding factor in what makes the makeup counters and store shelves each season. According to Chad Hayduk, co-founder and training director, Three Custom Color Specialists, New York, NY, “Travel is always so inspiring for us as it helps us learn about ourselves, about our clients and become more of a global brand. We love immersing ourselves in cultures, spotting trends, eating new foods, visiting museums and people watching. Because we are so color-oriented, I tend to look at local color trends in clothing, architecture and nature,” he said, adding that he and his partner Scott just traveled to Russia.
“The evening golden aura was enchanting and mesmerizing especially as it bounced off the colorful buildings, water and gilded church spires. Rich, bold jewel tones were everywhere—especially in the architecture,” Mr. Hayduk said.
Three Custom Colors Specialists is creating a Russian color story for this season. The Czarina Collection, due this October, will feature rich hues such as a classic red for lips and an ice blue for eyes.
For 2009 and beyond, as far as color goes, the seasonal cycles will continue, and spring will bring “a softer, sheerer version of garden flowers; summer will feature bronze and golden looks and fall with then bring the more intense version of deeper, darker hues,” according to Ms. Strettell of Rimmel. “Each season will be inspired with a little something special to inspire newness and playfulness which makes makeup so much fun.”
Mineral Magic: New Takes for Fall 2008
No Color Cosmetics Roundup would be complete without the current industry wunderkind, mineral makeup. Mass market sales of mineral makeup more than doubled last year to $149 million, according to Information Resources, Inc. New products are helping to propel demand as well. According to Datamonitor's Productscan Online, there were 451 new mineral makeup launches in the U.S. last year, compared to 132 in 2005.
Leading the way, of course, is Bare Escentuals. For Fall 2008, the company is adding 10 new shades to its top-selling 100% Natural Lipcolor line. According to the company, the line’s creamy formula combines exotic oils with natural waxes and plant extracts to deliver an intensely hydrating, longwearing lipcolor with superior color payoff. New shades vary from Bread Pudding, a tawny nude, to Berry Cordial, a deep raspberry.
Some brands are braving the minerals fray for Fall 2008, like the Body Shop’s new line of Nature’s Minerals. The collection offers a range of loose powder shades with a slightly pearlescent formulation for healthy-looking skin—a mineral makeup essential. ELF (Eyes Lips Face) also launched a minerals line with price points ranging $3-$5 this season.
Additionally, mass marketers are boosting their already-successful minerals lines with new offerings, such as Maybelline’s Mineral Power Lipcolor for Fall 2008. According to the company, the formula combines the power of minerals with its first-to-market mousse stick technology for a lipcolor line with a smooth air-light feel and a natural, satin finish available in 12 earth-toned shades.
Mary Kay is adding some new hues to its recently launched mineral line. For Fall 2008, colors for eyes are shimmering olives and golds, contrasted by matte mauve blushers for cheeks. Perfect for women “on the go,” the new hues fit into the customizable Mary Kay Compact. The famous pink brand is also going green this season with a recycling drive for older compacts.
Revlon also recently released its ColorStay Minerals Lipglaze line—the company’s first long-wearing lipgloss with a unique mineral complex that provides a shiny seal of conditioning color for up to eight hours.
“The mineral boom and the green movement directly impact everyone in the industry on many different levels and will continue to do so,” says Krystyne Biser of Revlon’s product development team.
Ms. Strettell added that the development of products that multitask—as seen in foundations that help continue to moisturize the skin, eyeshadows that firm and lipsticks with healing properties—will be big next year.
Easy is another buzzword for 2009, said Mr. Longo of Vincent Longo. “Easy-to-use products that glide on the skin will continue to be in demand. New technologies will provide high tech pigments and binders with more transparency and lasting ability. Just look at high definition television and how you can see every detail of the skin—clearer more natural-looking pigments will be needed in the future.”
Ms. Robison of Jane Iredale agreed. “Manufacturers are going to have to continually strive to introduce new and better product formulas if they hope to thrive in the coming years. Technology is taking center stage; how can we make it last longer, and wear better, while at the same time minimize the harmful chemicals that are still present in so many lines.”
Variety is also a must for color cosmetics, as well as a great package. “Palettes that offer several different eye shades or lip shades do great because they contain several different looks and combinations,” said Emily Carter, marketing manager, Sugar, Irvine, CA, whose company features an assortment of trendy cosmetic palettes for teens, like the Daily Diary set for Fall 2008. “Seal the deal with a great package at an affordable price, and the consumer will be satisfied.”
“We live in a world of contrasts, young vs. old, high tech vs. natural, traditional vs. funky. A brand has to offer consumers something that resonates, that talks to them as an individual and not as one of a homogenous group,” noted Ms. Perez of Markwins, whose Wet N Wild line has rolled out a plethora of new products in recent months, including the Perfect Pair lip and eye wands—duo lipliner/lipsticks and eyeshadow/eyeliners, respectively.
According to Ms. Lucero of Stila, no matter what color or product used, looking good is forever in style. She said, “Despite the trends, beauty is always in fashion.”
New Ingredients for Color Cosmetics
Here is a list of new color cosmetics ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.
Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.
Fort Lee, NJ
Tel: (201) 292-3180
INCI name: Phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl/lauroyl glutamate tocopherol
Suggested use levels: 0.3%-1.5%
Applications: Sunscreens, lipsticks, creams
Comments: Eldew is an emollient derived from glutamic acid, natural fatty acid, higher alcohol and phytosteryl. It forms lamellar liquid crystals identical to ceramides and has an excellent emollient efficacy.
Tel: +33 (0)1-49-00-80-80
INCI name: Polyamide-5
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Oil/water emulsions, foundations, tinted creams
Comments: Orgasol Caresse combines lipophilic and hydrophilic characteristics that have been fine-tuned to make its dispersion easy in oil-in-water-based emulsions (foundations, tinted creams) and to bring outstanding sensorial benefits. It imparts these formulations with a very unctuous and silky texture, with no greasy after-feel, and offers great comfort-in-use to these foundations without requiring silicone-based formulations.
Tel: (800) 531-0815
INCI name: Propylheptyl caprylate
Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care, face and lip color cosmetics
Comments: Cetiol SenSoft, the “happy” emollient, delivers a multi-dimensional softness, and has a very good solubilizing ability of crystalline, organic UV filters and good dispersion power of inorganic pigments, which enhance performances of sun care formulations.
INCI name: Pentaerythrityl distearate
Suggested use levels: 1.0-4.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care, facial color cosmetics
Comments: Cutina PES is the new O/W consistency wax which creates a non-waxy, light and caring skin feel.
Cosmedia Gel CC
INCI name: Dicaprylyl carbonate (and) stearalkonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate
Suggested use levels: 2.0-10.0%
Applications: Face/body care, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Cosmedia Gel CC is the emulsion stabilizer, suspending agent for pigments and texture agent. It creates melting texture with velvety, matte finish and supports an enhancement of smooth radiance.
Tel: (732) 417-0800
INCI name: Tris (PPG-3 benzyl) citrate
Suggested use levels: 2-20%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, facial makeup and sprayable sunscreens
Comments: Patented citrate ester that works synergistically with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption in the UVA spectra.
Tel: (989) 496-4000
EP-9289 LL Cosmetic Powder
INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) lauroyl lysine
Applications: Loose and pressed powders (eyeshadow, makeup); liquid and stick foundations; creams, lotions and gels; lipsticks, blush, eye concealer
Comments: The combination of white crosslinked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder and lauroyl lysine improves flow and reduces agglomeration, providing superior handling ease; allows creation of innovative textures; has good compaction properties; high sebum absorption profile.
EP-9261 TI Cosmetic Powder
INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) titanium dioxide
Applications: Loose and pressed powders (eye shadow, makeup); liquid and stick foundations; creams, lotions and gels; lipsticks, blush, eye concealer; sun care
Comments: White cross-linked dimethyl polysiloxane elastomer powder coated with small particle size titanium dioxide provides soft focus effect and fluid/oil absorption capabilities; improves compaction; thickens volatile silicone; provides smoothness, powdery feel.
EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder
INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: Loose and pressed powders (eyeshadow, makeup); liquid and stick foundations; creams, lotions and gels; lipsticks, blush, eye concealer
Comments: A hard, white elastomeric silicone powder that provides a silky and powdery skin feel; improves color intensity and coverage in pressed powder formulations.
Tel: (609) 443-2500
Bentone Gel PTIS V
INCI name: Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate
Suggested use levels: For suspension 2.5-10%, emulsion viscosity 3-5%, single oil viscosity 10-25%
Applications: Lip products, mascara, foundations
Comments: Delivers a combination of benefits such as cushioning emollience, long-lasting lubricious skin feel, high pigment wetting and glossy films. Hectorite clay allows rheological modification of the oil phase, which leads to increased viscosity, better spreading, thixotropic flow, enhanced product stability and a smooth skin feel.
EMD Chemicals Inc.
Tel: (856) 423-6300
Timiron Synwhite 40
INCI name: Synthetic fluorophlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide
Suggested use levels: 0.1%-50.0%
Applications: Lipsticks; lipglosses; eye, face and body powders; nail polish and personal care products.
Comments: Timiron Synwhite 40 features a pure silverwhite pearlescent pigment based on synthetic mica. It offers high brilliance and sparkle effects, has a neutral white masstone color, and its thin flakes offer high luster and coverage. Accepted worldwide for color cosmetics and personal care products.
Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation
Tel: (800) 446-1809
INCI name: Nylon-12
Suggested use levels: 1.0-6.0%
Applications: Powder, foundations, makeup, nail polish, aerosols, rouge, eyeshadow.
Comments: Ultra fine polyamide powder for use in color cosmetics, especially pressed powders and foundations. Suitable also for nail polishes and aerosols. Lowest water absorption of all commercially available Nylon-12 grades, enhancement of skin feel, smoothing and reduced shine.
INCI name: Nylon-12
Suggested use levels: 1.0-6.0%
Applications: Lipstick, foundation, powder, skin care, sun care.
Comments: Tegolon 12-20 is an ultrafine polyamide powder for use in color cosmetics. Combines soft touch with good absorption properties, enhances contact time with stratum corneum and improves ease of application and spreadability.
International Specialty Products
Tel: (973) 628-4000
INCI name: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.25-2.5%
Applications: Color cosmetics, lamellar gel formulations, eye gels, cream gels, suspended gels, sun protection products, hydroalcoholic sprays, hand sanitizers and thickened PIT emulsions.
Comments: UltraThix P-100 is a multi-benefit copolymer. In skin care, it delivers rheology with aesthetic and functional benefits. It offers emulsion stabilization, reduces tack and improves aesthetics of hydroalcoholic sprays, enhances skin feel properties, delivers water resistant formulations and tolerates metal oxides in formulations.
INCI name: Butylene glycol (and) 10-hydroxydecanoic acid (and) sebacic acid (and) 1,10-decanediol
Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%, clinically tested at 3%
Applications: Cosmetic skin care products for mixed and oily skin; acne-prone skin; day creams and makeup; anti-bacterial products (e.g. deodorants).
Comments: Acnacidol BG is a clinically tested royal jelly mimetic 10-HDA that controls and reduces sebum for acne prone skin. During clinical studies, it provided excellent results for seboregulation. It helped to decrease sebum synthesis in one hour and diminish the number of active sebaceous glands in one hour. In addition, it provides anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties.
Peptide Vinci 02 IS
INCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) hexapeptide-3
Suggested use levels: 0.25-1%
Applications: Skin-repair and anti-aging products; men’s products; body-firming products; facial treatments; lip treatments; lipsticks; sun care products; day makeup (e.g. foundations).
Comments: Peptide Vinci 02 IS patented synthetic biomimetic fibronectin peptide. It reinforces cell adhesion to the extracellular matrix (ECM) and thereby promotes matrix remodeling and skin repair. It also promotes dermal repair and demonstrates a significant plumping, hydrating and smoothing effect on the lips (in-vivo).
Tel: (973) 439-1401
INCI name: Isododecane, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Ideal for use in liquid foundations that require a fast drying, volatile, powdery after-feel from a non-crosslinked polymer gel.
Comments: Jeesilc PS-VH from Jeen International is a new novel silicone polymer gel network that offers outstanding feel and cushion to the skin from a non-crosslinked polymeric network. It is ideal for a light powdery matte finish in color cosmetics.
INCI name: Polyethylene
Suggested use levels: 3-10%
Applications: Liquid foundations, hot pour applications, water in silicone emulsions
Comments: A low molecular weight, predominantly linear polyethylene that delivers good structure properties.
INCI name: Cyclomethicone, bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Ideal for use in lip applications that require a superior high gloss profile with a flexible film that is non-tacky.
Comments: This ingredient is a new novel silicone polymer that offers outstanding film forming properties with exceptional feel and spread. It is compatible in stick applications.
Kemira Specialty, Inc.
Tel: (201) 750-1055
INCI name: Titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) triethoxy caprylylsilane
Suggested use levels: 1-15%
Applications: Lipsticks, powders, foundations, eyeshadows and makeup pencils
Comments: An alumina-silane treated, anatase titanium dioxide of excellent photostability and dispersibility in oils. It imparts opacity, whiteness and depth of color, and it is ideal for inclusion in color cosmetic applications where coverage or lighter color is needed.
INCI name: Chitin, beta-glucan
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Lip care and foundations
Comments: Innovative ingredient of vegetal origin, backed by clinical studies, KiOsmetine-CG30 can smooth, restore, moisturize and protect while delivering a nice after-feel. It also stimulates collagen renewal, giving lips a fuller appearance.
Tel: (416) 843-6371
Cashmilan SPB 9864
INCI name: Water (and) hydrolyzed keratin
Suggested use levels: 2%
Applications: Eyelash conditioning and strengthening pre-treatments and mascaras, eyebrow treatments
Comments: Can apply this ingredient to mascara application. Paraben-free and suited for sensitive eye formulations designed to beautify eyelashes and eyebrows.
Biophytex LS 9832
INCI name: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) panthenol (and) escin (and) glycerin (and) ruscus aculeatus root extract (and) ammonium glycyrrhizate (and) centella asiatica extract (and) hydrolyzed yeast protein (and) calendula officinalis flower extract
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: Spider vein diminishing and dark circle reducing foundations and concealers
Comments: A preservative-free synergistic complex of botanical origin that strengthens the capillary walls and improves microcirculation. Also available in active powder form for incorporation into anhydrous formulations such as concealer.
INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Nourishing, moisturizing and repairing lip care
Comments: An extra virgin Ecocert organic argan oil, which belong to the LS Sustainable Argan Program. Rich in poly-unsaturated omega fatty acids and in tocopherols, it helps restoring the barrier function of the skin, providing moisturization and protection. Skin and lips are intensively nourished and regenerated.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Lipobutter Refined Organic Shea
INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Products for skin care, baby, sun care, body, eye care, lip, hair care, after sun care products.
Comments: Lipobutter Refined Organic Shea is rich in oleic acid and vitamins A and E. Produced from certified organic materials by Ecocert in France.
INCI name: Polyamide-5
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: Ideal for skin treatment, sun and after sun, dry and mature skin, eye creams, daily moisture lotions, liquid makeup foundation
Comments: Orgasol Caresse is a multi-functional product that will greatly improve sensory performance while delivering soft focus emulsion.
INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 stearate (and) ceteareth-20
Suggested use levels: 3-6%
Applications: Will enhance the feel of creams and lotions, liquid make-up foundations and high oil-phase emulsions.
Comments: Lipomulse Luxe forms liquid crystal structures that serve to greatly increase long term emulsion stability as well as stability at elevated temperatures.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Noveon Consumer Specialties
Tel: (800) 379-5389
Schercemol TISC Ester
INCI name: Triisostearyl citrate
Suggested use levels: 5-50wt%
Applications: Recommended for use in lipstick and lipgloss preparations.
Comments: Improves long wear, durability, gloss and color adhesion in lip formulations while also reducing syneresis. Its light color allows use with pale, pastel colors in cosmetic formulations.