Clean. Condition. Color.

November 26, 2008

In mass, these three hair care categories were rather limp during the past yearand that was before the economy hit the skids. Salon products did slightly better, but will sales take a hit if customers head to the supermarket for shampoo and conditioner, or dare to color their hair at home?

Clean. Condition. Color.

In mass, these three hair care categories were rather limp during the past year—and that was before the economy hit the skids. Salon products did slightly better, but will sales take a hit if customers head to the supermarket for shampoo and conditioner, or dare to color their hair at home?

Christine Esposito
Associate Editor

Mass market hair care is looking a little flat these days.
For the 52 weeks ended Oct. 5, sales of shampoos in U.S. mass marketers, drug stores and supermarkets (excluding Wal-Mart) fell 1.67% to $1.39 billion with unit sales dropping nearly 4%, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI) in Chicago. Conditioner sales also slid, posting a  1.1% decline to $953.7 million, with unit sales down 4.4%.

Meanwhile, on the professional side, sales of shampoo and conditioners in U.S. salons rose 8.2% to $791 million between 2005 and 2007, according to data from Mintel. But that was before the U.S. economy hit the skids, pushed down a slippery slope by the credit crunch, the housing crisis and Wall Street’s implosion.
Clearly, hair care marketers are keeping a watchful eye on how the current economic situation shakes out. Will the down economy be a boon for mass marketers? Will consumers who normally buy at the salon shop for shampoo and conditioner at Target, CVS or the local supermarket instead? Will more women color at home? Or, will the cache and professional results that come from a trusted salon brand—not to mention stylist and/or colorist—remain must-haves in an image-conscious, albeit economically unstable, society? 

The Color of Money

Even as the economy slumps, experts suggest one market should weather the storm.
“Salon hair color, at least in the mid-upper end, is recession proof because most salon coloring is highlighting more than color. People used to professional coloring like the ‘quality,’ and are unlikely to turn to home coloring,” said Jacqueline Clarke, research director with Irish research organization Diagonal Reports, which predicts the salon coloring market will rise by as much as 10% in 2008.
“Color is no longer just an individual luxury,” continued Ms. Clarke. “It is a necessity because it is work related. It is unlikely that women who have been going to work with professional highlights for 10 years will contemplate appearing with gray roots.”
In the mid-to-upper market, highlights and lowlights, followed by overall color, are the top services, and proponents contend only trained professionals with salon formulations and expert tools deliver what customers want.
“The key to being a colorist is to create shades that look luscious, beautiful and have eye-catching shine; not dull, dry, unexciting shades,” said Tracey Cunningham, Redken creative consultant for color. “Hair color is like fashion; it is always changing with trends. Color trends moving forward are going to be natural shades that look elegant, classic and not overdone.”
Taking inspiration directly from Fashion Week runways, Redken’s new Spotlight Collection infuses blondes, brunettes and redheads with multi-dimensional sophistication, seductive shine and soft reddish-brown tones with subtle hints of violet. It features six calibrated Mahogany Violet shades from Redken’s Color Fusion and Shades EQ hair color brands.
According to Ms. Cunningham, the collection helps create “gorgeous mahogany shades that don’t look over-processed.”
While in-salon color is often thought by many women to be the only option, P&G wants to give professionals a run for their money with what it calls “the biggest home hair color innovation in more than 50 years.”
Launched in March, Perfect 10 by Nice ‘n Easy is a high-performance permanent color crème that delivers high gloss, permanent color in just 10 minutes. The result, according to P&G, is unsurpassed color, improved hair surface condition and a superior usage experience.
Driving those results is AminoGlycine, a new lightening system that took nearly 10 years to develop. According to P&G, AminoGlycine lightens hair melanin and forms new color complexes much more selectively and efficiently than conventional technology, doing the job in only 10 minutes compared with 20-30 minutes with traditional permanent home hair color. It has 10 times less alkalinity (pH 9) than conventional technology, which leads to better preservation of the hair’s natural protective coating. Further, it targets melanin pigments and is less likely to react with keratin, according to P&G, which helps preserve hair condition and reduce surface damage. P&G also improved the olfactory experience and application process. Since AminoGlycine has a lower pH, Perfect 10 has a significantly reduced ammonia odor, and P&G enlisted its own perfumers to craft a custom fragrance with a floral bouquet of violet and rose. A patented comb—which has 15 outlets to provide maximum color distribution—envelopes each strand from the root to the tip regardless of hair length or thickness.
But color isn’t just for women. More men are turning to salon and at-home products to keep a youthful appearance. According to IRI, sales of men’s hair color products at mass market retailers supermarkets and drug stores rose 3.1% in the 52 weeks ended Oct. 5, compared to a 1.3% decline for women’s products.
Leading the men’s color market at mass is Combe’s Just for Men, which saw sales rise 4.61% to $91.9 million. And the White Plains, NY-based firm’s most recent launch, Touch of Gray (which allows men to keep bit of the gray hair when they color), has proved a nice addition, adding another $4.23 million to the franchise.
For those who might be leery about committing to new color or are sensitive to some ingredients, Pravana Naturceuticals has developed Silk Degrees, a new plant-based hair color treatment, which it contends can refresh hair or transform hair between regular color treatments. The color washes out in six to eight shampoos, which allows customers to test drive a shade before committing to a permanent color. Colors include copper, red, chocolate, mahogany and honey.

Asset Management

With both genders coloring their hair at costs that can easily hit triple digits at some high-end salons, there’s greater need for shampoos and conditioners that can help them protect their investment.
John Paul Mitchell is selling “take home insurance” for platinum blondes. The firm’s new Platinum Blonde Shampoo boosts and brightens blonde hair and banishes brassiness, helping to keep hair a consistent tone. The formulation includes violet pigments that help to brighten and enhanced blonde, gray or white hair while neutralizing yellow tones. A combination of conditioning agents and extract provide ample moisture and intensified shine, according to the company. 
P&G has rolled out Pantene Pro-V Expressions, a line of liquid crystal shampoos designed for the unique structure of color-treated hair. The shampoo and conditioner systems help restore hydrophobicity, smoothness, vibrancy and shine in just one wash, according to the company. P&G segmented the products for brunettes, blondes, redheads and highlighted hair—each designed to help locks maintain vibrancy and multi-dimension shine.

Getting Specific

Looking to squeeze as much out of the market as possible, hair care manufacturers are also expanding the shampoo and conditioner category with products that address not only specific colors and conditions, but gender and age too.
Pravana’s Silk degrees is a plant-based hair color treatment that washes out in six to eight shampoos.
Aveda, for example, has extended its men’s hair care line with Pure-Formance Exfoliating shampoo, which exfoliates the scalp to remove dull, dead skin cells, excess oil, product build-up and other surface impurities. It contains boswellia, which has been clinically proven to help visibly reduce skin irritation and redness; licorice extract to soothe; phycosaccharide (seaweed), which acts as a protective barrier for skin and scalp; plai oil, a member of the ginger family that relives skin irritation; tamanu oil to restore moisture and balance; and ursolic acid (sage extract), which has astringent properties.
In the mass market, Gillette’s new hair care line is designed specifically for men, with a series of six shampoos formulated to bond to and remove dirt and oil and one conditioner. The line includes products such as Deep Cleaning Shampoo, Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with ZPT technology and Clean-Thick Shampoo, which has been designed to cleanse and provide rich, fuller looking hair.
Thermafuse’s new Moisture Shampoo is sulfate-free.
As in the skin care sector, aging Baby Boomers are a potential gold mine for hair care marketers. In fact, there are more people between the ages of 44 and 62 in salon chairs today than any other group of clients. To address this growing category, Joico has created the re:nu Age Defy Hair Care, which features a unique, scientifically advanced system created by Shiseido, its parent company. The line features a special re:nual serum—which Joico contends actually reverses the graying process by inhibiting the development of new grays and creating an optimal environment for the growth of healthier, shinier hair—as well as shampoos and conditioners in formulations for coarse and dull hair and fine and fragile hair, conditions which are often the result of, or are intensified, as the hair ages.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, Unilever’s Dove franchise is aiming for 20-something women with its new Dove Go Fresh line. Dove Go Fresh therapy shampoo and conditioner, priced at $3.78 for a 12oz bottle, feature a special serum that protects hair from daily wear and tear with an ultra light formula that removes build-up. Two variants are available—Energize (grapefruit and lemongrass) and Cool Moisture (cucumber and green tea).   

So Long, Sulfates

While brands promote more precise formulations, marketers are also taking a closer look at ingredients. Sulfates, specifically, have come under fire, and companies are touting new products formulated without this long-standing workhorse technology.
“Sulfate-based surfactants are marvelous at breaking down grease,” said Steve Goddard, founder and president of Pravana Naturceuticals. While this surfactant has been used for the last 25-30 years, there has been a steady shift to styling products using aqueous-based resins that break down with water. “You don’t need extraordinary cleansing. There isn’t the demand now to have that kind of deep cleansing,” he added.
For Mr. Goddard, creating sulfate-free products was a long-term goal—while working for one major professional salon brand, he pitched the idea, but the firm wasn’t ready. When he ventured out on his own, he sought a more gentle technology for Pravana.
“The most primary motivating factor for us was to seek a gentler surfactant. The more aggressive surfactants are not really smart in how they pull out things from hair. They indiscriminately remove everything from the hair—sebum, stylers and color too,” said Mr. Goddard. “We made a decision that our products wouldn’t contain sulfates, cocoamaide DEA, or phthalates…We left these ingredients out and formulated around them.”
Pravana has recently added Sulfate-Free Keratin Fusion Revitalizing shampoo, billed as cleansing elixir that provides therapeutic relief with a rich, easy to rinse formula. The formulation contains human hair keratin amino acids and keratin protein. The smaller amino acids penetrate hair to improve tensile strength while the larger proteins adhere to the exterior of the hair to create shine and improve overall condition. They are both positively charged, allowing them to adhere to negatively charged damaged hair sites.
Sulfate-free was also a goal for celebrity stylist David Babaii, who has launched a new line called WildAid. “I was determined to make a line free of sulfates, parabens, petrochemicals, animal products and most importantly free from all animal testing. This took three years to research and develop since our formulas were a labor of love and started from scratch,” said Mr. Babaii.
The WildAid line features two specific shampoo/conditioner formulations: WildAid Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner, which incorporates cupuacu butter which moisturizes, mango and shea butters, wild orchid and jojoba seed oil, and Amplifying Shampoo and Conditioner, which contains mineral-rich volcanic ash and natural guar.
In early November, Mr. Babaii formed partnerships with select target CVS and Duane Reade stores to sell the line this fall, while international expansion is planned for 2009.
Based in Kannapolis, NC, Thermafuse has added Sulfate-Free Moisture Shampoo and Moisture Condition, a hydrating duo that brings moisture to parched hair via drenching proteins. The shampoo contains a complex network of naturally derived, heat-activated ingredients to guard against damage, while the conditioner heals and repairs dry hair with emollients that nourish, hydrate and refresh.      
Vogue International  recently unveiled Vitamin Shampoo, a new collection of hair care products that take their cue from the growing popularity of vitamin-rich beverages. These sulfate- and paraben-free formulations are packed with superfruits containing vitamins and antioxidants, along with nutrients, minerals, proteins, and essential oils to enrich and re-energize hair.
Pantene goes for the blondes—and brunettes, redheads and those with highlighted hair too.
“We identified the rapidly emerging consumer trend of superfruits and recognized enormous potential for hair care,” said Ross Reback, chief executive of Vogue International.
According to Mr. Reback, consumers have recognized these benefits and the marketplace has seen many new product introductions of the superfruit concept, including new juice brand launches from brands like Minute Maid, Tropicana and V8.
“We wanted to be the first to bring this concept to hair care and have answered the needs of consumers with a brand that is infused with natural superfruits, is sulfate- and paraben-free, has incredible scents, etc.,” he added.
The VitaminShampoo collection includes shampoos and conditioners such as Rejuvenating Blueberry Avocado, Energizing Dragonfruit Kiwi, Nutritional Acai Berry Guava, Smoothing Mangosteen Yogurt, Hydrating Noni Berry Lemongrass, Healing Gogi Berry Green Tea and Renewing Pomegranate Blackberry. All products are retail for $6.99 at Walgreens, CVS and Walmart, with Rejuvenating Blueberry Avocado exclusive to Walgreens and Energizing Dragonfruit Kiwi exclusive to CVS/Pharmacy.

The Bottom Line

Whether the goal is sulfate-free technology, a cleanser that’s kinder to color or greater use of natural ingredients, companies know they can’t sacrifice performance and tactile qualities in any formulation. When it comes to shampoos and conditioners, combability, concentration of lather and mildness remain must-have attributes. 
But according to industry experts, the most successful companies recognize the top priority in hair care: exceed customers’ expectations.
“Customers want that ‘wow’ factor,” Van Stamey, chief executive of Thermafuse, told Happi. “That’s what we call it around our factory.”



Hair Care Ingredients

Here is a list of new hair care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.


Fort Lee, NJ
Tel: 201-292-3180
E-mail: specialty_chemicals_cst@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajichem.com


INCI: Sodium PCA
Use Levels: 1.0-3.0% (w/w)
Applications: Shampoos, (post-dye) conditioners, hair masks, hair sprays, and hair styling gels
Comments: Amino acid blend formulated to resemble the amino acid composition of Cell Membrane Complex (CMC) proteins in the hair. Penetrates the cuticle to condition, repair and strengthen—all while providing protection for color-treated hair and delivering noticeable shine and luster.

Amisafe AL-01

INCI: Lauroyl arginine
Use Levels: 0.1–0.5% (w/w)
Applications: Hair conditioners, shampoos, and hair styling products
Comments: Amino acid-based surfactant derived from l-arginine and fatty acid. Adsorbs to the hair for improved smoothness, moisturizing and control—especially in the case of severely damaged hair.

AkzoNobel Personal Care

Bridgewater, New Jersey
Tel: 888-331-6212
Fax: 908-707-3664
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare


Naviance Maize

INCI:  Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Use Levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Antiperspirants/deo-dorants, bath and shower products, color cosmetic, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair gel, moisturizer, mousse, self tanner, shampoo, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection
Comments: Naviance Maize certified organic biopolymer is an all natural rheology modifier for use in personal care emulsions. Supplied as a powder, the biopolymer is an additive that provides thickening properties and is widely compatible with typical cosmetic raw materials. This compatibility allows for broad formulating latitude. In addition to bringing stability to emulsions over a broad temperature range (-30°C up to 50°C), Naviance Maize certified organic biopolymer provides the formulator with the flexibility to formulate over a broad pH range (3-8). It is extremely shear thinning, with rapid viscosity recovery suitable for emulsion in spray or pump delivery.

Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer

INCI: Tapioca starch
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Antiperspirants/deo-dorants, bath & shower products, color cosmetic, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair gel, moisturizer, mousse, shampoo, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection, treatment
Comments: Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer is an all natural rheology modifier that also has the ability to form films. Supplied as a powder, the biopolymer provides thickening and film formation properties and is widely compatible with typical cosmetic raw materials, which allows for broad formulating latitude. It provides the formulator with a broad pH range in which to create formulations (4-7). In addition, it is extremely shear thinning, with rapid viscosity recovery suitable for emulsion in spray or pump delivery; it is also stable in the presence of high electrolyte levels (20%). Formulating all natural and certified organic formulations is now possible with the use of this certified organic biopolymer.

Naviance instant Maize certified organic biopolymer

INCI:  Zea mays (corn) starch
Use Levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Antiperspirants/deodor-ants, bath & shower products, color cosmetic, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair gel, moisturizer, mousse, self tanner, shampoo, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection, treatment
Comments: Naviance instant maize certified organic biopolymer is a starch-based rheology modifier for emulsion products. Supplied as a powder, this biopolymer easily builds viscosity to create stable personal care emulsions.  An emulsion containing this certified organic biopolymer will have outstanding stability over a broad temperature range (-30°C-50°C). Readily cold water dispersible; no pre-mixes are needed. It can also be added to the oil phase or to adjust batch properties at the end of production.

BASF Corporation

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: 973-245-6425
Fax: 973-245-6714
E-mail: personal-care-na@basf.com       
Website: www.personal-care.basf.com

Luviquat Sensation

INCI:  Polyquarternium 87
Use Levels: Strong hair, 0.5-1.0%; fine hair, 0.2-0.5%; damaged hair, 0.5%
Applications: Shampoo
Comments: Luviquat Sensation is a high-performance conditioning polymer for rinse-off applications. In shampoos, it provides excellent wet and dry hair benefits ts without the use of silicones. Despite its high cationic charge density, Luviquat Sensation can be formulated with a broad variety of anionic surfactants. The highcharge density ensures that damaged hair receives the exact amount of conditioner it needs to repair and revitalize itself.

Biosil Technologies, Inc.

Allendale, NJ
Tel: 201-825-8800
Fax:  201-825-8810
Email: doug@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com

BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF

INCI: Cetyl triethylmonium dimethicone PEG-8 succinate.
Use Levels:  Hair care  0.5-5.0%
Applications: Skin care, hair care, make-up, bath products, baby products.
Comments: BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF offers: significant reduction in irritation measures compared to standard surfactants, reduced tackiness, increased softness and moisturization, improved spreadability and cushion, improved skin and hair aesthetic feel, maintains original formula foaming,  Excellent for paraben free products.

Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Fax: 203-822-9820
Website: www.centerchem.com       
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com

TEGO Galanga

INCI: Kaempferia (Galanga root  extract)
Use Levels:  0.5–2.0%
Applications: Hair care, stressed and damaged hair products, conditioners
Comments: Tego Galanga is a natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga by a patented extraction process. Tego Galanga provides excellent UV absorption and is an ideal ingredient for the protection of hair fibres and reduction of hair color fading due to UV radiation.
A tensile strength study was conducted on single hair fibers to determine the efficacy of Tego Galanga. After application of a leave-in hair formulation, a 35% increase in tensile strength was recorded. It should be added to the oil phase of the formulation. It is an excellent choice to provide hair protection against UV rays.

Vine ECO

INCI: Water, glycerin, vitis vinifera leaf extract  (preserved with sodium benzoate & potassium sorbate)
Use Levels: 0.1–3.0%
Applications: Hair care, skin care, toners   
Comments: Vine-ECO is an Ecocert extract produced from the leaves of Vitis vinifera.  The use of Vitis vinifera dates back to the most ancient civilizations.  The chemistry of Vine-ECO includes polyphenols, organic acids, phenolic acids and other active principles. The cosmetic properties of Vine-ECO include stimulation of blood circulation, regulation of sebum secretion, would healing and anti-oxidant protection for skin and hair.  Additional details are available.


Ciba Corporation

High Point, NC
Tel:  336-801-2126
Fax:  336-801-2020
Email:   personalcare@ciba.com
Website:  www.ciba.com/personalcare


Ciba Tinovis CD

INCI: Dimethylacrylamide/ethyltri-monium chloride methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (and) C10-C11 isoparaffin
Use Levels: Spray conditioner, 0.2
Applications: Rinse-off and leave-in conditioners, hair dressings, styling aids, sunless tanners and sprayable sunscreens
Comments: A cationic acrylic copolymer dispersed in an elegant emollient ester. A liquid dispersion polymer (LDP). Multi-functional—provides focused conditioning, thickening at low pH, suspension, and uniform spreading.

Ciba Tinovis ADE

INCI:  Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6
Use Levels: Emulsion stabilizer, .05-0.2
Applications: Hand and body lotions, suntan lotions and creams, foundation, make-up remover, select hair care applications
Comments: An anionic acrylic copolymer dispersed in a hydrogenated polydecene. A liquid dispersion polymer (LDP). Multi-functional- provides high thickening efficiency, suspension,  uniform spreading, and enhanced feel.

Croda Inc

Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Fax: 732-417-0804
Email: marketing@crodausa.com
Website: www.crodausa.com


INCI: Not yet assigned
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, leave on treatments, styling products
Comments: Broad spectrum UV protection for the hair.  Excellent substantivity—even in rinse off systems.  Provides hair color protection for both natural and color treated hair, while protecting hair fiber integrity from damage inflicted by the sun.

Hydroavena HPO

INCI: Hydrolyzed oats
Use Levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Rinse-off and leave-on skin care applications such as body wash and lotions
Comments: Hydrating peptide derived from organically sourced brazil nuts.  Very substantive to the skin and penetrates skin surface to moisturize from within.

Hydroexcelsa HPO

INCI: Hydrolyzed Brazil nut protein
Use Levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Shampoos, conditioner, leave-on treatments
Comments: Hydrating peptide derived from organically sourced oats.  Very substantive to the hair and penetrates hair surface to moisturize from within.

Desert Whale Jojoba Company

Tucson, AZ
Tel:  520-882-4195
Fax:  520-882-7821
Website:  www.desertwhale.com
Email: marketing@desertwhale.com

Jojoba Hydrate

INCI: Jojoba alcohol (and) potassium jojobate (and) butylene glycol.
Use Levels:  5–30%
Applications: Conditioning spray, detangler
Comments: Jojoba Hydrate acts as the primary emulsifier in a formulation.  It provides conditioning, improves comb-ability and increases shine in the hair.

Jojoba Iluminate

INCI:  Jojoba alcohol  (and) potassium jojobate (and) 1,3-propanediol
Use Levels:  5–30%
Applications: Conditioning spray, detangler
Comments:  Jojoba Illuminate is a naturally derived emulsifier that is Ecocert approved.  It provides conditioning, improves comb-ability and increases shine in the hair.

Jojoba PRO – HP

INCI:  Hydrolyzed jojoba protein
Use Levels:  1–6 %
Applications: Conditioning spray, shampoo
Comments:  Jojoba Pro-HP is a non-allergenic, non-irritating jojoba protein that imparts moisturization and shine to the hair.

Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation

Hopewell, VA
Tel: 800-446-1809
Fax: 804-541-8689
Website: www.evonik.com/personalcare
Email: carla.huffman@evonik.com

Abil UV Quat 50

INCI: Polysilicone-19
Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, hair masks
Comments: Abil UV Quat 50 is a silicone conditioning agent with excellent hair fiber UV protection. It provides efficient protection of hair color against fading in sun light and protects the hair fiber also against damage from UV radiation. Abil UV Quat 50 is highly substantive to hair and can be used in rinse-off and leave-in formulas.

Tego Galanga

INCI: Kaempferia galanga root extract
Use Levels: 0.5-2.0%
Applications: Conditioners
Comments: TEGO Galanga is a natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga. It is a natural source of ethyl p-methoxycinnamate with a minimum content of 98%. Provides excellent UV absorption and similar benefits in formulation as OMC. Ideal ingredient for the protection of hair fibers and hair color fading against UV radiation.

Grant Industries, Inc.

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: 201-791-8700
Website: www.grantinc.com
E-mail: info@grantinc.com

Gransil SiW-CRT

INCI: Isododecane (and) isobutylmethacrylate/bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate  copolymer (and) water (and) butylene glycol (and) decyl glucoside
Use Levels: 1-8% for color retention of dyes in rinse off products.
Applications:  Color retention hair color serums and conditioners
Comments: SiW-CRT is a high-internal-phase emulsion of about 90%  silicone-grafted acrylate in isoparaffin contained in a thickened aqueous external phase. This  product can be diluted in other aqueous phases, including conditioners. The internal solution polymer dries quickly on the skin or hair to form an excellent clear, glossy film that is flexible and breathable. The film exhibits outstanding adhesion and color retention properties.

Gransil SiW-PCA-10

INCI:  Dimethicone (and) PCA dimethicone  (and) water (and) butylene glycol (and) decyl glucoside
Use Levels: 3-5% for rinse off products
Applications:  2-in-1 type volumizing shampoos and conditioners
Comments: A 90% oil phase micro-dispersion of 60,000 cst dimethicone and dimethicone PCA (an isomer of the natural moisturizing factor “PCA” covalently bonded to a silicone backbone) This product is designed for easy addition into leave-on lotions and rinse off conditioners and cleansers.   The end result is a product that is easier to formulate at lower temperatures and gives a higher degree of slip, volume and conditioning. The recommended pH range is 4.5 to about 7 to maximize the slip properties.

The HallStar Company

Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255, 312-385-4494
Fax: 908-852-1335
E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstar.com

HallStar SAB-2N Flake

INCI: Distearyl phthalic acid amide
Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Treatment or conditioning shampoos
Comments: Emulsifies and suspends particulates (e.g., antidandruff actives) and oils (e.g., dimethicone). Vegetal and petrochemical derivation.

HallStar TAB-2 Flake

INCI: Dihydrogenated tallow Phthalic acid amide
Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Treatment or conditioning shampoos
Comments: Emulsifies and suspends particulates (e.g., antidandruff actives) and oils (e.g., dimethicone). Animal and petrochemical derivation.

HallStar PEG 6000 DS C

INCI: PEG-150 Distearate
Use Levels: 2-4%
Applications: Baby shampoos and mild specialty surfactant facial and body cleansers
Comments: Novel version of this chemistry. Imparts a rich, almost Newtonian rheology to aqueous systems.  Exceptional water solubility for clarity in low surfactant level systems.

International Specialty Products, Inc.

Wayne, NJ
Tel: 973-628-4000
Website: www.ispcorp.com
E-mail: info@ispcorp.com

Heliostatine IS

INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) pisum sativum (pea) extract
Description: A botanical extract with clinically proven tan prolongation effect for a healthy glow and radiance
Use Levels: 1-1.5%, clinically tested at 1.5%
Applications: Sun care products designed for skin protection, day creams for enhancing glow and radiance, cosmetic products for preparing the skin for sun exposure and cosmetic products for tan prolongation.

Laminixyl IS

INCI: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) heptapeptide
Description: Laminin-5 like peptide designed to enhance skin integrity and functioning through the dermal-epidermal junction.
Use Levels: 0.5%
Applications: Cosmetic applications include anti-aging cosmetic products, improving basement membrane structure, enriching extracellular matrix, contributing to skin firmness, and improved epidermal differentiation and cohesion, thus helping to reinforce skin barrier function.

Aquastyle 300

INCI: Polyquaternium-69
Description: Polymeric quaternary ammonium salt composed of vinyl caprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, di-methylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPA), and methacryloylaminopropyl lauryl-dimonium chloride (MAPLDAC).
Use Levels: Recommended use levels are 1-5% active. For the new 2% VOC California CARB limits for styling products, use up to approximately 4% active.
Applications: AquaStyle 300 is positioned for clear and cream gels.  It can be incorporated into alternate applications such as aerosol and non-aerosol mousses, styling lotions and sprays.

Jeen International

Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-439-1401
Website: www.jeen.com
Email:  info@jeen.com

Jeesilc DS-8

INCI:  PEG-8 dimethicone
Use Levels:  1%-5%
Applications:  Hair care (shampoos, conditioners, colorants), bath products and skin care formulations
Comments: Distinctive water-soluble dimethicone copolyol. Improves skin feel, adds slip, detackifies ingredients in formulations, adds moisturization to surfactant systems.

Jeesilc 6056

INCI: Dimethicone, dimethiconol, laureth-4, laureth-23
Use Levels:  1%-8%
Applications:  Hair care (conditioners, lotions, sprays), sunscreens, skin care formulations
Comments: Unique water dispersible silicone emulsion.  Imparts soft, silky feel, enhances film formation and water resistance, improves wet combing and conditioning.

Jeechem Concentrate SF

INCI: Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl detaine
Use Levels:  40%-50%
Applications:  Shampoos, body washes
Comments: Outstanding alkyl and alkyl ether sulfate-free, amide-free, mild, multipurpose cleanser concentrate. Gentle, rich, clean-rinsing, ideally suited for premium shampoos and body washes.

Laboratories Serobiologiques

Division of Cognis France
Cognis Canada Corp.
Ontario, Canada
Tel: 416-843-6371
Fax: 905-542-7588
Email: sean.maguire@cognis.com
and: Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
Paris, France
Email: customer-service.ls@cognis.com
Website: www.labserobio.com

Puricare POE

INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Applications: Anti-pollution, protecting hair care; repairing, strengthening and conditioning hair care; care for hair damaged by UV, pollution, perms, hair dye; summer ranges protection against sand, salt, chlorine.
Use Levels:  2-4%
Comments: Puricare POE is a paraben-free protein extract from Moringa seeds with cationic properties. As a result of its strong natural substantivity, it has protecting, strengthening and repairing properties on hair. Its protective effect on hair against outdoor and indoor stress /pollution (UV, dust, exhaust gas as well as cigarette smoke) have been demonstrated in vivo by innovative tests. Further studies have also highlighted its purifying effect on hair and scalp, which enable greasy hair to retain more volume.  It is positioned as a multi-functional innovative protective hair care active. It is therefore suitable for a wide range of applications including rinse-off and leave-on formulations as well as crystal-clear products.

Lipofructyl Cyperus

INCI: Cyperus esculentus root oil
Applications: Shampoos for shine and brilliance, conditioning treatments, volumizing conditioners, suitable for dry scalp treatments
Use Levels: 1–3%
Comments: Lipofructyl cyperus is a pure organic Ecocert certified oil for the full range of skin and hair care applications. It is extracted from the roots of the Chufa Sedge plant and has a high natural content of tocopherols, protecting it against free radicals. Applied to hair, it is proven to enhance softness, shine and combability. Skin care products that contain Lipofructyl Cyperus have a moisturizing effect which is still significant after 24 hours after application, as demonstrated in an ex-vivo test, making it suitable for ‘moisture-rebalancing’ and comforting treatments of dry and/or irritated scalp. This universal caring oil is applicable in a wide variety of skin and hair care products, whether for men, women or  family.

Litchiderm LS 9704

INCI: Butylene glycol (and) litchi chinensis pericarp extract.
Applications: Hair color ranges to protect against color fading; summer hair care ranges, with a dual style and protect claim.
Use Levels: 1–2%
Comments: Litchiderm is a polyphenol-rich lychee extract that offers all-day long protection of the hair fibers against photo-degradation. Thanks to its efficient free-radical scavenging effect, it prevents hair alterations resulting from UV induced oxidative stress—such as reduction of color fading of dyed hair—and ensures the hair fiber is fully protected against photo-aging. Tests carried out on human hair exposed to UVA radiation have shown that it reduces the formation of UVA-induced free radicals in a dose-dependant effect. With Litchiderm, hair color remains shiny and vibrant longer and hair integrity is significantly preserved.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ
Tel: 973-345-8600
Fax:  973-355-8365
Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Lipomulse Luxe

INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 stearate (and) ceteareth-20
Use Levels:  3-6%
Applications:  Hair care conditioners and straighteners
Comments: Lipomulse Luxe is a unique emulsifier blend that will enhance hair care conditioners and straighteners.

Lipo PE Base G-55/Lipo PE Base  BG-55

INCI:  Glycerin (and) polyester-5/polyester-5 (and) buytlene glycol (and) glycerin
Use Levels:  1-5%
Applications: Hair care products, hair styling and hair spray
Comments: Lipo PE Base G-55 is a patented polymer system that will form water resistant films and function as protective barriers when they dry-down.  Long lasting and greater adherence.

Lipo SFS-5

INCI: Isododeane (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) bis behenyl/iso-stearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate
Use Levels: 12% to greater than 50%
Applications: Hair conditioners, hair straighteners, hair relaxers
Comments:  Lipo SFS-5  is an emollient blend that acts as a functional replacement for cyclomethicone D5.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Noveon Consumer Specialties

Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Email: pcp.csr@lubrizol.com
Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Glucquat 125 Humectant

INCI: Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride
Use Levels: 0.25-2%
Applications: hair styling products, conditioning creams and rinses, detanglers, shampoos
Comments: Glucquat 125 Humectant is a naturally-derived, quaternized methyl glucoside that offers both conditioning and humectant properties in formulations. This multifunctional ingredient is ideal for use as a substantive conditioning agent, adding moisture and sheen to hair while reducing flyaway.

Hydramol  PGDS ester

INCI: PEG-90 Diisostearate
Use Levels: 0.1-2.0%
Applications:  Shampoos, conditioners and skin care products
Comments: This completely water soluble emollient is used not only for its moisturizing properties, but also for its ability to thicken. It forms beautiful gels in cleansing formulations, and can also thicken solvents such as propylene glycol and dimethicone copolyol.

Malladi Specialities Limited

Tel: +91-40-27204991 / 2 / 3
Fax: +91-40-27203333
Website: www.malladispecialities.com
Email: info.msl@malladiinc.com 

Dand Off

INCI:  Piroctone olamine
Use Level: Application specific
Applications: Antidandruff shampoo, antidandruff cream rinse, antidandruff hair treatment, antidandruff Setting lotion, antidandruff hair tonic, antidandruff hair gel, antidandruff hair cream, antidandruff hair oil, deodorants, anti acne products.

Hair Pro DL

INCI:  DL Panthenol
Use Level:  Application specific
Application: DL Panthenol is a moisturizing agent and a source of vitamin B5 for use in hair and skin care products.

Dand-Off -Z

INCI:  Zinc pyrithione
Use Levels: Application specific
Applications: Zinc pyrithione is used to preserve a wide variety of food/ drinking water contact and non-food contact articles.

Momentive Performance Materials

Albany, NY 12211       
Tel: 800-295-2392
Email: cs-na.silicones@momentive.com
Website: www.momentive.com

Silsoft Q cationic amino silicone

INCI: Water (and) silicone quaternium-18 (and) trideceth-6 and trideceth-12
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Shampoos,  conditioners, developer solutions for hair dyes, pre-treatments for hair dyeing, ethnic hair care.
Comments: Easy to use microemulsion. Silsoft Q cationic amino silicone delivers unique dry softness and volume to hair. Permanent charge of the quaternized silicone and surface orientation provide outstanding lubricity on rinsing and during wet combing.

Silsoft Care blend

INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) silicone quaternium-18
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Conditioners, hair serums, styling gels, anhydrous formulations, pomades and pre-treatments for coloring, bleaching and perming.
Comments: Silsoft Care blend delivers unique dry softness and volume to hair. The cyclic silicone acts as volatile carrier, first spreading the silicone quat uniformly and then volatilizing to leave a protective film of silicone quat.

Silsoft Style silicone

INCI: Water (and) silica dimethicone silylate (and) TEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate (and) PEG/PPG-5/3 trisiloxane Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Pump sprays, spritzes, styling gels, mousses, frizz smoothing creams, shampoo, glazes
Comments: Silsoft Style silicone delivers soft, natural curl with excellent sensory. Silsoft Style silicone also provides long lasting curl memory. Its super spreading properties significantly reduce tack time and decrease dry time. Ideal for low VOC formulations. No neutralization required. No flaking.

Pilot Chemical Company

Cincinnati, OH
Tel: 800-70-PILOT     
Fax: 513-326-0601
Email:  info@pilotchemical.com    
Website: www.pilotchemical.com

Calfoam ES-302LD

INCI:   Sodium laureth sulfate
Applications: Shampoos, body wash, bubble bath, facial cleansers
Comments: This 30% active laureth sulfate has 2 moles of EO and is specially manufactured to be dioxane-free and offer excellent flash foaming, cleansing and hard water tolerance properties. Biodegradable and derived from renewable vegetable resources.

Calfoam ES-702LD

INCI: Sodium laureth sulfate
Applications: Shampoos, body wash, bubble bath, facial cleansers
Comments: This 70% active laureth sulfate has 2 moles of EO and is specially manufactured to be dioxane-free and offer excellent flash foaming, cleansing and hard water tolerance properties. Is biodegradable and derived from renewable vegetable resources.

Protameen Chemicals Inc.

Totowa NJ
Tel: 973-256-4374
Fax: (973) 256-6764
Email: info@protameen.com
Website: www.protameen.com

Pro Aqua ISL                                                                       

INCI:  Isosteareth-200 linoleate                                                  
Use Levels: 2-6%                                                                                  
Applications:  Shampoo, clear shower gels & body washes, styling gels

Pro Aqua ISP

INCI: Isosteareth-200 palmitate
Use Levels: 2-6%
Applications: Shampoo, clear shower gels and body washes, styling gels
Comments: Water soluble, vegetable derived emollient and moisturizer for skin and hair. Specifically designed for use in clear products.


Tel: (33)-1-53-56-53-12
Email: rhodia-hpc@eu.rhodia.com
Website: www.rhodia-novecare.com

Polycare Boost

INCI: Water, dimethicone, polyquaternium-74, laureth-7 (preserved with: sodium benzoate and phenoxyethanol)
Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: High performance shampoos and conditioners
Comments: High performance conditioning for silky and shiny hair in personal care solutions.

Miracare SLB Shampoo

INCI: Sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamide MEA
Use Levels: 30-45%
Applications: Shampoos, including hair repair, natural oil, multi-benefit,  anti-dandruff, moisturizing, and anti-breakage, silicone-free repairing, and conditioning
Comments: Miracare SLB high is a performance solution for hair beauty.

Mirasheen Star

INCI: Glycol distearate and sodium laureth sulfate and myristyl alcohol and cocamidopropyl betaine
Use Levels: 1%-3%
Applications: Light and silky shampoo, conditioners
Comments: The deal pearlizing agent for shine and luminescence in personal care, rinse-off solutions.

ROVI Cosmetics International GmbH

Schlüchtern, Germany
Tel:  +49-0-6661-96760
Fax:  +49-0-6661-967676
Email: info@rovicosmetics.de
Website: www.rovicosmetics.de

UltraSpheres Q10

INCI: Water (and) alcohol (and) caprylic/capric  triglycerides (and) lecithin (and) ubiquinone
Use Levels: 3-5 %
Applications: Skin care
Comments: A  fine-disperse nanoemulsion with natural, non-hydrogenated  phosphatidylcholine as emulsifier. It stabilizes coenzyme Q10 in formulations.

Sabinsa Corp.

Piscataway, NJ
Tel: 732-777-1111
Fax: 732-777-1443
Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com
Email: info@sabinsa.corp.com


INCI: Caesalpinia sappan bark extract
Use Levels: Up to 2% depending on desired color
Applications:  Natural color
Comments:  Imparts two different colors depending on pH

Red Sandalwood

INCI: Pterocarpus santalinus wood extract
Use Levels: Up to 2% depending on desired color
Applications: Natural color

Stepan Company

Northfield, IL
Tel: 847-446-7500
Email: Techserv@stepan.com
Website: www.stepan.com

Stepan-Mild  GCC

INCI:  Glyceryl caprylate/caprate
Use Levels: 1-5 %
Applications:  Shampoos, body washes, creams, lotions, facial cleaners, liquid soaps
Comments: StepanMild GCC is a 100% active, natural food-grade thickener for liquid cleansing  personal care  systems that offer comparable viscosity performance and foam enhancement versus traditional thickeners.  Made from 100%  renewable carbon. It offers the advantage of incorporation via cold mix and being EO/PO-free alleviating 1,4-dioxane concerns.
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