On the Horizon

March 3, 2009

As industry awaits FDAs new sunscreen rule, sun care marketers are focused on broad spectrum protection and boosting SPF levels for the 2009 season.

On the Horizon

As industry awaits FDA’s new sunscreen rule, sun care marketers are focused on broad spectrum protection and boosting SPF levels for the 2009 season.

Christine Esposito
Associate Editor

It has been more than a year since the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) stopped accepting comments about new standards for sunscreens, a rule which would bring major changes to the marketplace, affecting nearly everything from formulation to testing to labeling.

First announced in August 2007, by the end of that year, FDA had received several thousand comments on the proposed new rule, which would amend the existing OTC sunscreen rule of 1999 with a new regulation that would set standards for formulating, testing and labeling sunscreen products with ultraviolet A (UVA) protection.

In a nutshell, the proposed UVA rule would introduce a four-star rating system for UVA protection and would require sunscreen products found to provide no UVA protection to be labeled “No UVA Protection.” SPF would be renamed from its current “sun protection factor” to “sunburn protection factor,” and product labels would be required to include “UVB” alongside “SPF” so consumers will know that SPF values reflect UVB sunburn protection.Additionally, under the proposed rule, SPF values would increase from SPF 30 to SPF 50+.

According to Rita Chappelle, a press officer with the office of public affairs, FDA hopes to have the rule ready for release in May, just before the beginning of what is the primary sun care selling season in the U.S.

But some experts Happi spoke with are a bit skeptical about that timeline. For starters, FDA still lacks a permanent director, who must be named by the next Director of Health and Human Services—a post that saw its nominee (Tom Daschle) resign during the confirmation process in early February. Secondly, industry insiders say many issues—including UVA in-vitro and in-vivo testing methodologies—must be ironed out prior to the release of the regulation.

In the meantime, major marketers are gearing up with new products to entice users and gain greater share in what is a highly competitive, seasonal marketplace.

For the 52 weeks ended Dec. 28, 2008, sales of suntan lotion and oil in U.S. supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers (excluding Wal-Mart) rose 6% to $601.1 million with unit sales up almost 5%. More specifically, sales during the 26-week period between April 1 and Sept. 28, 2008 accounted for $498 million of that total.

Broad Spectrum Protection and SPF on the Rise

When it comes to sun care in 2009, major marketers are addressing broad-spectrum protection and boosting SPFs levels.

According to FDA’s proposed rule, SPF values higher than SPF 50 cannot be substantiated with current, available testing methods. But a quick glance at any sun care display in the mass market shows that marketers are already sporting higher SPF levels and more products are hitting shelves this spring.

Banana Boat is rolling out its highest SPF protection to date in two different Ultramist clear sprays—Sport Performance Sunscreen SPF 85 and Ultra Defense Sunscreen SPF 85. Each features AvoTriplex, its patented technology that provides long-lasting UVA and UVB protection. Banana Boat’s sister brand, Hawaiian Tropic, has also upped the ante on SPF, adding new Ozone Ultimate Sunscreen with SPF 80 and Hawaiian Tropic Oil Free Sensitive Sunscreen with SPF 50, both of which feature SunSure Technology and advanced UVA protection.

Creating more photostable products has been a primary R&D goal for all major sun care companies, including Energizer Personal Care (EPC), which owns both Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic.

According to Grace Riccardi, an R&D representative with EPC, the company is pushing ahead on this front, benefiting from its lab in Florida that tests the photostability of its products in the sun between 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., not just in the laboratory.

“We have seen differences between the lab and in-sun; some sunscreens degrade more rapidly. This is an extra test we are doing,” Ms. Riccardi told Happi.

Chattem has expanded the BullFrog line of sun care products.
Chattem is also dialing up SPF levels and boosting UV protection for the 2009 season. In addition to new BullFrog SuperBlock SPF 50, the Chattanooga, TN-based company has added its UV Extender formula (Avobenzone at 3%) to BullFrog Marathon Mist SPF 36 Adult and Kids continuous spray products, bringing its roster of products that contain the technology to four. BullFrog Quik Gel SPF 36 with UV Extender and BullFrog Quik Gel Sport Spray SPF 36 with UV Extender were released last season.

Schering-Plough is also ratcheting up SPF levels, adding Water Babies Pure & Simple SPF 50, a tear-free sunscreen, Water Babies SPF 70 lotion, a high SPF broad spectrum product, and Coppertone Sport Sunscreen Lotion SPF 70+, which the company calls a“very sweat-resistant formulation.”

Blurring the Lines

But one of the highest profile launches this season from Schering-Plough is Coppertone NutraShield with Dual Defense. With this new brand—which has actress Brooke Shields as a spokesperson—the company is clearly blurring the lines between traditional sun care and skin care, aiming to make NutraShield a year-round purchase.

“Coppertone’s legacy of continuous innovation led to the development of NutraShield and its Dual Defense technology, providing women an affordable skin care option that delivers a high level of sun protection as well as antioxidants to nourish skin,” said Dr. Patricia Agin, fellow in skin care research and development at the Coppertone Solar Research Center.

Dual Defense combines broad-spectrum sunscreen and antioxidants to replenish skin, supporting its natural repair process. Billed as a “new beauty line” with upscale looking packaging that appeals to a primarily female audience, it appears the Kenilworth, NJ-based healthcare company wants NutraShield to take on the likes of Neutrogena and Aveeno. These skin care lines from Johnson & Johnson have transferred their cache in mass skin care to the sun care aisle.

According to recent IRI data, Neutrogena Ultra Sheer holds the No. 3 spot in suntan oils and lotions, with sales of $49.5 million, up 41.4%, while Aveeno Active Naturals Continuous Protection garnered sales of $11.3 million, rising an impressive 315.4%

Adding SPF and UVA protection is a major trend in the skin care market, and more products are on the way, including a just-released SPF 50 facial moisturizer from Cetaphil. According to Forth Worth, TX-based Galderma Laboratories, Cetaphil UVA/UVB Defense SPF 50 is the highest SPF available for a moisturizer designed specifically for the face. Containing an optimum blend of four filters and micronized titanium dioxide that screen both UVA and UVB rays, it has been awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Seal of Recommendation.

While the emphasis on sun protection is good for consumers, does its more prolific existence in skin care hurt or help traditional sun care brands? While there is clearly room for overlap use, more sun care brands are beefing up their formulations with vitamins, antioxidants, herbal extracts and other skin-caring ingredients that appeal to savvy consumers.

Along those lines, EmerginC has reformulated its Sun SPF 30+ and Tinted SPF 30+. In addition to broad-spectrum protection, these super-lightweight, non-greasy sunblocks contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, vitamins C and E, green tea, aloe vera, sea buckthorn extract and licorice root, among other ingredients.

Estée Lauder is also rolling out new products that deliver sophisticated sun protection with specialty ingredients that care for the skin. On counters this month is Bronze Goddess Sun Indulgence Lotion for Face SPF 30, which the company says offers the brand’s most technologically advanced broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. The lotion features “Solar Screen Oil Armor” containing ingredients such as macadamia seed oil and kukui seed oil, to create an environmental defense technology for enhanced skin protection, according to the company.

Wear it Well

In addition to providing maximum protection from harmful rays, a goal for sunscreen manufacturers is to formulate products that are easy for consumers to incorporate into their daily routine. After all, a sunscreen with a high level of SPF and top level UVA/UVB protection can’t protect the skin if it sits in the medicine cabinet.

“Our sun products have been formulated to be lifestyle products. Not only are they highly effective, but their elegant, quick absorbing formulations lead the consumer to embrace them and want to incorporate them into their daily skin care regimens. Because patient compliance is always a concern for physicians, this becomes an very strong product attribute,” said BJ Girard, product manager with Photomedex, Montgomeryville, PA, which offers Ti-Silc and Z-Silc sun care products. Ti-Silc and Z-Silc contain micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as well as green tea extract, which help to protect against environmental damage.

An assistant clinical professor at Mt. Sinai Medical Center and a member on the board of the Skin Cancer Foundation, New York City-based dermatologist Dr. Craig Austin has entered the sun care market with AB Sun with SPF 45 for the face and body. With an advanced anti-photoaging complex, AB Sun is formulated with micronized zinc oxide to block UV radiation and provide broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. As an added benefit, AB Sun contains anti-aging ingredients green tea and caffeine.

According to Dr. Austin, the formulation’s brownish tint—which stems from green tea—adds to the aesthetic experience, because unlike products that leave behind a white residue, AB Sun looks good when it’s applied. “It makes you want to use sunscreen,” he said.

And that’s a key issue for dermatologists who see sun damage up close on a daily basis and as a result, have their fingers on the pulse of what consumers really know about sun protection. “People don’t use sunscreen, and when they do use it, it is not high enough SPF,” added Dr. Austin.

Executives at Banana Boat echoed that sentiment. “From a consumer standpoint, we have learned that they still aren’t sure what SPF is, and now with the UVA story coming on, they are still confused about UVA,” said Ms. Riccardi. In addition, she pointed out that most consumers are wearing less than the recommended dosage, and are probably not following reapplication recommendations. “That’s why we push for higher SPFs,” she said.

Yet, not everyone is on board with higher SPF levels.

Jeff Kletter, founder of Kinesys Inc., San Rafael, CA, is one of them. While he likes the addition of the UVA protection to the proposed FDA standards, Mr. Kletter told Happi, “I’m not thrilled about the increase to SPF 50+.”Mr. Kletter believes the increase to SPF 50 will further confuse consumers.

Kinesys recently added Girl, a new SPF 30 SKU sold in a pink bottle, featuring a vanilla and green tea fragrance. This oil-, alcohol-, paba- and preservative-free sunscreen, which features Parsol 1789 as well as tocopheryl acetate to scavenge free radicals, targets tweens who usually don’t like heavy or greasy creams, according to Mr. Kletter.

Form and Function

Finding ways to make sun protection more appealing to different consumers translates into success in the sun care market. In recent years, ultramists and continuous sprays have struck a chord with consumers.

“Continuous spray sunblocks have been exploding in past years,” noted Roman Shuster, an analyst with Euromonitor. “It is easier to apply and attractive to manufacturers, because they retail a bit higher.”

Yet there are other ways in which users can apply sun protection these days. Take Colorescience, for example, which touts the Sunfortgettable line of mineral powders that provide broad-spectrum sun protection and sport the Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation. Colorescience, Dana Point, CA, which offers customers several unique application methods—roller ball, shaker can and brush—has added the Sunforgettable SPF 30 Orb. Formulated with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, users twist to open the ball-shaped container and powder on the protection, which is water resistant, reflects and refracts light and is available in Clear, Almost Clear and Perfectly Clear as well as matte and sparkle options. The Sunforgettable Orb retails for $40 with a mini orb available for $12.

Bethesda Skincare LLC, Alcoa, TN, is taking sun care to the shower stall, with its new Sunscreen Soap, a body bar that delivers an invisible layer of SPF 10. Tested in FDA-approved facilities, this formulation includes aloe vera gel, chlorophyll, and a healing balm of Gilead and glycerin which work together to cleanse, deodorize, sooth, and moisturize the skin while also boosting immunity and working as an anti-inflammatory. According to Bethesda’s founder, Jamie Collins Doss, there is patent pending on the bar, which retails for $8.

Tanning Time

While much of the emphasis is on SPF and broad spectrum protection, firms still address the other side of the sun care market—products geared toward helping users achieve, speed up and perfect their tans.

Bikini Kitchen’s new Booty Butter Tanning Lotion accelerates the tanning process while ensuring skin is revitalized and moisturized, according to the Tampa, FL-based company. Not a stainer or self tanner, Booty Butter is billed as an innovative “browning lotion” that contains 100% all-natural ingredients from the Hawaiian Islands, including Kona coffee extract, which accelerates the tanning process and gives the lotion its mocha fragrance. Other ingredients include kukui nut oil, macadamia nut oil, aloe vera and vitamins A, E and C.

What Booty Butter lacks is SPF. “Booty Butter works with all types of sunscreens, and we recommend the two be used together,” said Karrie Pettit, the Florida native who created the product after a trip to Hawaii.

Another zero SPF offering comes from Frontier DermaSciences, LLC, which has developed Joe Caribe Dark “0” SPF Tanning Oil. This blend of five oils, which is “microbrewed in small batches,” is recommended for use in stand-up tanning booths and natural sun. It comes in Chocolate, Wild Carrot Seed, French Vanilla, Hazelnut Coffee, Oolong Tea and Oatmeal, Milk & Honey scents.

In the self tanner market, companies are tackling issues that had turned some consumers off—streaky looks and less-than-pleasant smelling formulations—and led to declining sales.

Joli Baker, president of Pür Minerals, Atlanta, GA, insists, however, that there are several factors that bode well for the self tanner market. “The economy is making it less realistic for people to go splurge on tanning salons while consumers are also looking for healthier choices and ways to get a golden glow,” she said.

Stocked at Ulta, Dillards and online, Pür Minerals’ new Get A Little self tanner is a lightweight quick absorbing lotionformulated with shea butter and vitamin E. “Get A Little self-tanner allows the consumer to be in charge of the results. The tan is achieved in a gradual process where maximum results are met in approximately three applications. What’s more, the formula is pleasant to smell and incredibly hydrating,” Ms. Baker said, noting the product’s subtle citrus scent.

But it’s not just niche players addressing the tanning and self-tanning segments. Hawaiian Tropic has a new Gold Tanning Dry Oil SPF 6 and Deep Tanning Crème Lotion SPF 2, both of which have that classic coconut scent consumers associate with sunbathing. In addition, Hawaiian Tropic has added Island Radiance Self Tanner lotions in two formulations (medium and medium-dark.) Both are formulated with “a powerful All-Q antioxidant formula” and contain vitamin E and CoQ10 to help smooth skin, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and sun damage and protect against free radicals. It has a light, fresh island fragrance with advanced odor blocking technology, according to the company.

Estée Lauder, too, is offering three new products in its Bronze Goddess Golden Perfection Self Tanners for face and body. The line includes lotion, milk and tinted gelée formulations that deliver warm, golden tones with ingredients such as amber powder and mica that give skin an immediate radiance, according to the company.

Weathering The Economy

The talk across the personal care industry has about been the economy, and as the summer approaches, it remains to be seen how the slowdown will affect the sun care market.

“It will factor in a little bit, but not a great extent,” said Mr. Shuster, noting that in sun care, like other markets, users are rather brand loyal. For example, if a Mom finds one type of spray bottle or ultramist that gets her kids lubed up quickly without too much fussing, she will continue to purchase that brand.

Yet, while mass-market sunblocks are relatively affordable, consumers may look for less expensive products, according to Mr. Shuster. Prestige products will probably be the most affected, “but the economy will be better for private label,” he said.

That’s good news for Sun & Skin Care Research, Inc., the Cocoa, FL maker of Ocean Potion sun care which last August purchased No-Ad Suncare, a franchise that has built its reputation by offering double the product volume for the same cost as many national brands.

Sun & Skin Care executives believe the No-Ad brand balances the firm’s stable. “The consumer for this brand is value focused, typically for the family. Ocean Potion skews toward a younger demographic,” said Leslie Anstey, vice president of marketing with Sun & Skin Care Research.

According to Gary DeAngelo, Sun & Skin Care’s chief executive officer, combining the brands provides increased economies of scale, and enhances its “ability to develop new and unique break-through products in the sun protection category.”

Room for Growth

Economics aside, there appears to be room for growth in sun care, especially in light of a recent poll on American behavior published in the February issue of Consumer Reports.According to a national poll conducted by the Consumer Reports National Research Center, 27% of respondents said they never use sunscreen when they’re in the sun for a long time.

According to industry executives, consumers may be more savvy about the dangers of sun exposure, but they aren’t always taking the precautions they should to protect their skin.

“The consumer is getting smarter about sun safety, but it’s still not a real priority,” said Mr. Kletter. “Until they’ve had a scare in their life or in the lives of someone close to them, sun care still doesn’t seem to be a top-of-mind issue.”

Antioxidants in Lip Care

It has been known for quite sometime that lips are the first area of the body to show signs of aging, as they lack adequate levels of melanin. They also lose moisture rapidly due to lack of a proper moisture barrier. Lips require special treatment with protective and corrective ingredients, as well as moisturizing and normalizing ones. Properly formulated lip care products can provide comprehensive protection against UV damage and especially UV-induced free radicals, which can cause pre-mature aging.

Many of the commercial lip care products currently on the market, such as, lipsticks, lip balms and lip moisturizers contain chemical UVB and UVA filters, which may be accidentally ingested.

In recent years, antioxidants such as vitamin E and carotenoids have been incorporated into many skin care and sun care products, because of their ability to slow down skin aging by providing protection against free radicals and enhancing health and beauty.

LycoRed’s natural antioxidants are ideal ingredients for year-round, daily lip protection; in particular, Lyc-O-Mato a natural lycopene complex, because of its unique composition of the natural antioxidants, found in tomatoes, lycopene, phytoene and phytofluene. Combined with rosemary extract (Lyc-O-Rose Oil) and lutein (Lyc-O-Lutein Oil), it can provide additional protection against UV, smoke and other chemical pollutants, which induce free radicals. In addition, they can enhance health and beauty by increasing thickness, density and smoothness.

Lyc-O-Mato is highly stable at high temperatures and it does not change the color and texture of the final product. It readily dissolves in oils and waxes commonly used in lip care products. It can be mixed at a range of 45-80°C, for up to six hours without loss of activity

Combining both types of protection, UVB and UVA filters and antioxidants, is advantageous in skin and sun care and lip care for outdoor activities, because they provide extra protection.—David Djerassi, LycoRed

Sun Care New Ingredients

Here is a list of new sun care care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.
For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly using the contact information provided.

Biosil Technologies

Allendale, NJ
Tel: 201-825-8800
Fax: 201-825-1100
E-mail: info@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com

Astaplancton HA

INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (and) haematococcus pluvialis extract
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-2.0%
Applications: Skin care, sun care ingredient prepared from Hawaii red cells rich in astaxanthin bringing protection againstboth UVA & UVB induced damage.


INCI: Water (and) porphyra umbilicalis extract
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: For sun care and protective skin care products, a genuine UVA bio-protector based on the efficacy of special marine compounds.


INCI: Water (and) undaria pinnatifida extract
Suggested Use Levels: 2.0-5.0%
Applications: Daily care, sun care ingredient which has the most efficient manner to protect skin from UV irradiation and urban pollution.

Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Fax: 203-822-9820
E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com

Tego Galanga

INCI: Kaempferia galanga root extract
Suggested Use Levels:0.5-2.0%
Applications: Hair care
Comments: Tego Galanga is a natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga using a proprietary extraction process. Kaempferia galanga is a common medicinal (skin protectant) and food (spice) ingredient found in Southeast Asia. Tego Galangais a natural source of ethyl p-methoxycinnamate, known for its UV filter properties, and it contains a minimum of 98%.In in vitro tests, Tego Galangahas been proven to protect hair fibers and hair color fading from UV radiation. The recommended usage level of Tego Galanga is 0.5-2.0%. Further details of the studies are available.


INCI: Tetrapeptide-21 (proposed), water, caprylyl glycol
Suggested Use Levels: 2.0-5.0%
Applications: Creams, lotions, gels
Comments: Preventhelia is a peptide born from preventative cosmetics. Preventhelia inhibits the formation of carbonyl proteins as a result of oxidative stress by scavenging RCS.In addition, Preventhelia has a significant photo-protective effect on human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKa) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa). In vitro tests have shown that 1mg/ml Preventhelia produced a 92% increase in the cell viability of HEKa versus irradiated control cells. In addition, HDFa treated with Preventhelia reached 76.9% cell viability versus non-irradiated control cells. When compared to irradiated control cells, Preventhelia increased cell viability by more than 13000%. Preventhelia also protects skin from UV-induced DNA damage.A Comet assay, used to analyze and quantify DNA damage, was able to show that after UV irradiation, the percentage of DNA damage decreased, and consequently the DNA repair capacity increased significantly in the presence of Preventhelia. A dosage of 2-5% of Preventhelia is recommended in final cosmetic formulations. Further details of the studies are available.

Ciba Corporation

High Point, NC
Tel: 336-801-2126
Email: ellen.werner@ciba.com
Website: www.ciba.com/personalcare

Ciba Tinovis CD

INCI: Dimethylacrylamide/ethyltria-monium chloride methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (and) C10-C11 isoparaffin
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications:In sunless tanner, thickens the formula, helps to evenly spread the DHA and improves the overall color development

Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA
Tel: 800-531-0815
Fax: 215-628-1450
Website: www.cognis.com
Email: caresupportUS@cognis.com

Cetiol SenSoft

INCI: Propylheptyl caprylate
Suggested Use Levels:1-5%
Applications: Face, body care, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Cetiol SenSoft, the “happy” emollient, delivers a unique multi-dimensional softness which really makes you smile. Cetiol Sensoft has excellent solubilizing properties for crystalline sunscreens and is a great dispersing agent for physical sunscreens. This high quality emollient allows the formulation of sun protection products with the aesthetics of high quality skin care.

Ultragel 300

INCI: Polyquaternium 37
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1.0%
Applications: Face, body care, sun care, self tan, hair styling, hair conditioning
Comments: Ultragel 300 is a highly efficient cationic gelling agent which allows for the formation of clear gel and gel/creams. Ultragel 300 functions even at low pH levels allowing the formulation of self tanning gels with excellent clarity. Ultragel 300 offers a soft and silky skin feel ideal for all types of face and body care and can even be used in hair styling and conditioning applications.

Cosmedia DC

INCI: Hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Body care, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Cosmedia DC is a unique water resistant agent which functions by modifying the emulsion characteristics of the sun care formulation. Cosmedia DC gives a significantly less sticky skin feel when compared to traditional water resistant agents and has been shown to boost moisture levels in the skin after application.

Croda Inc

Edison, NJ
Fax: 732-417-0804
Website: www.crodausa.com
Email: marketing@crodausa.com

Solperform 100

INCI: Aqua (and) hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Sunscreen lotions, creams and sprays, daily facial moisturizers, anti-aging lotions and creams
Comments: A film forming polymer that boosts the efficacy of UV filters in sunscreen formulations by improving the distribution of the actives over the skin.


INCI: To be assigned
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners (rinse off and leave on) and styling products
Comments: Offers broad band UV protection for the hair. Not only does it offer hair fiber protection with the UVB absorbance, but it also offers hair color fading protection from the UVA absorbance.

DSM Nutritional Products

Parsippany, NJ
Tel: 800-526-0189
Email: kathleen.maurer@dsm.com
Website: www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com

Parsol TX

INCI: Titanium dioxide
Suggested Use Levels: Formulation dependent; 5-12% in sunscreens.
Applications:Sunscreens, daily wear

Grant Industries, Inc.

Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: 201-791-8700
Fax: 201-791-3887
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com

UV-Cut SiW-TiO2

INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) water (and) PEG-10 dimethicone (and) butylene glycol (and) stearic acid (and) alumina (and) decyl glucoside
Suggested Use Levels: 5-30%
Applications: Easy to formulate O/W dispersion for sunscreens, anti-aging creams, skin lighteners, daily wear and color cosmetics

UV Cut ZnO-60

INCI: Zinc oxide (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 dimethicone
Suggested Use Levels: 5-30%
Applications: Easy to formulate zinc oxide dispersion for sunscreens, anti-aging creams, skin lighteners, daily wear and color cosmetics

Granpowder T-35

INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) titanium dioxide (and) stearic acid (and) alumina
Suggested Use Levels: 5-30%
Applications: Rapidly processable for daily wear pressed powders, lipsticks and hot pour foundations

The HallStar Company

Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255
(International: 312-385-4494)
Fax: 908-852-1335
Email: customerservice@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstar.com

HallBrite BHB

INCI: Butyloctyl salicylate
Suggested Use Levels: 2-10%
Applications: Sunscreens, foundations, makeup, blushers, lipsticks, lip balms, eye shadows, moisturizers, AHA formulations, creams and lotions, hair conditioners
Comments: Sunscreen actives stabilizer and solvent, emollient and carrier. Excellent spreadability and a pleasant, moisturizing, skin feel. Solu-bilizes oxybenzone and avobenzone even at low temperature (freeze point <-25°C). Enhances avobenzone photostability and is an excellent carrier for micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.


INCI: Polyester-8
Suggested Use Levels: 2-3%
Applications: Sunscreens
Comments: Low molecular weight polymer with cyanodiphenyl propenoate moiety that absorbs solar ultraviolet radiation with about one-third the efficiency of octocrylene on a w/w basis. Photostabilizes avobenzone via a triplet quenching mechanism. Also improves the substantivity of sunscreen formulations as measured by resistance to wash-off.

Spectrasolv DMDA

INCI: Dimethyl capramide
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Sunscreens, deodorants
Comments: Sunscreen solvent, SPF booster and deodorizer. Vastly superior solvency for sunscreen actives compared to traditional esters. Its high polarity typically has a beneficial effect on avobenzone photostability and, therefore, broad-spectrum sunscreen performance. Exhibits antimicrobial activity towards the bacteria causing body odor.

International Sourcing, Inc.

Franklin Lakes, NJ
Website: www.isi-usi.com

Quiditat NWP

INCI: Water (and) hypnea musciformis extract (and) gellidiela acerosa extract and cucumis sativus (cucumber) extract
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-5.0%
Applications: For use in moisturizing creams, lotions, after-sun gels, moisturizing serums and soaps.
Comments: Quiditat NWP is a bio-active web consisting of bio-polymers and glyco-proteins (from the cucumber extract) combined with sulfated polysaccharides (from seaweeds on the northeastern coast of Brazil). Quiditat NWP combines the moisturizing and protective qualities of marine algae with the soothing, cleansing and calming properties of natural cucumber. NWP may also provide bio-stimulating and regenerative properties, and is particularly recommended for use in skin care and sun care products.

Ormagel SH

INCI: Hypnea musciformis extract (and) gellidiela acerosa extract (and) sargassum filipendula extract (and) sorbitol
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-10%
Applications: For use in moisturizing creams and lotions, for sensitive skin, repairing creams and after-sun lotions, creams and gels
Comments: Ormagel SH is a high performance marine active ingredient specially formulated to obtain maximum effect on the skin. Ormagel SH protects the skin from the cutaneous irritations of the environment.

Prodhyderm O3 (as in Omega 3)

INCI: Glycerin and pyrus malus (green apple) extract
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: For use in sun care and after sun products and protective day/night creams and lotions
Comments: Prodhyderm O3 is a botanical extract of green apple with vitamins, minerals and natural omega-3. Omega-3s are polyunsaturated fatty acids that help the body’s natural protection and immune systems.The omega-3’s can help skin look younger and softer. This extract can be made with glycerin or organic glycerin base.

Kobo Products Inc.

South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-757-0033
Fax: 908-757-0905
Email: info@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com


INCI: Titanium dioxide
Suggested Use Levels: 2-25%
Applications: Sunscreen, lotions, foundations, concealers, lipsticks and hot pours


INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) dimethicone (and) methyl trimethicone (and) PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (and) alumina (and) methicone
Suggested Use Levels: 2-25%
Applications: Sunscreen: lotions, foundations, concealers, lipsticks and hot pours


INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) dimethicone (and) methyl trimethicone (and) PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (and) alumina (and) methicone
Suggested Use Levels: 2-25%
Applications: Sunscreen: lotions, foundations, concealers, lipsticks and hot pours

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ
Tel: 973-345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Lipo SFS-5

INCI: Isododecane (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) bis behenyl/iso-stearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate
Suggested Use Levels: 1% to greater than 50%
Applications: Lipo SFS-5 enhances cosmetic products when a non-silicone solution is needed. For use in hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, straighteners, relaxers, skin care creams and lotions, sunless self-tanning, body and bath products, and decorative cosmetics without emulsions.

Hylasome EG10

INCI: Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hylasome EG10 is a unique treatment product ideal for: skin care creams, lotions and treatment products. Body washes, sun care, leave-in hair conditioners and styling aids and liquid makeup foundations.

Presperse LLC

Somerset, NJ 08873
Tel: 732-356-5200
Email: samples@presperse.com
Website: www.presperse.com

SiClone TD-150 (TiO2dispersion)

INCI: Titanium dioxide, C13-16 isoparaffin, C12-14 isoparaffin, C13-25 alkane,aluminum hydroxide, isostearic acid, C18-21 alkane
Suggested Use Levels: 10-30%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, color cosmetics

MT-100WP (TiO2powder)

INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) silica
Suggested Use Levels: 5-20%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, color cosmetics, compatible with carbomers

RITA Corporation

Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: 815-337-2500
Fax: 815-337-2522
Website: www.ritacorp.com

Ritalab Galangal Extract P

INCI: Kaempferia galanga root extract
Suggested Use Levels:0.5-1.0%
Comments: Only known source of natural octyl methoxycinnamate, also has natural anti-inflammatory activity. Can be used in creams, lotions, sun care, makeup preparations and hair care applications.

Ritasil Shea Butter

INCI: Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, polysilicone-11, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Comments: Anti-inflammatory properties of shea butter and the skin protectant properties of dimethicone trapped within a silicone polymer matrix for slow release of the “actives” along with an outstanding skin feel. Can be used in creams, lotions, makeup preparations and sun care products.

Sabinsa Corporation

Piscataway NJ
Tel: 732-777-1111
Fax: 732-777-1443
Email: info@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com

Tetrahydrocurcuminoids CG

INCI: Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Suggested Use Levels:0.5-2.0%
Applications: Skin whitener, UVB protectant, antioxidant and anti-aging

Green Tea Extract CG

INCI: Camelia sinensis leaf extract
Suggested Use Levels:0.1-1.0%
Applications: Antioxidant, anti-microbial and UVB protectant


INCI: Hydroxyresveratrol
Suggested Use Levels:0.05-0.2% of your formulation
Applications:Anti-fungal, anti-acne, UVB protectant, skin whitening


INCI:Emblica officinalis fruit extract (pending)
Suggested Use Levels: up to 2%
Applications:Anti-aging, sun care and after sun care, nutricosmetic, hair care


Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-882-5597
Fax: 973-882-5178
Email: pcseppicinc@airliquide.com
Website: www.seppic.com

Sepiplus S

INCI:Hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and polyisobutene and PEG-7 trimethylolpropane coconut ether
Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-5%
Applications: Self tanning, sun and skin care

Simulgel SMS 88

INCI: Sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyltaurate/dimethyl-acrylamide crosspolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 60
Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-5%
Applications: Self tanning, sun care, skin care

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America

Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp


INCI: Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone
Suggested Use Levels: 3-20%
Applications: Fragrance-free products, sensitive skin products, skin care products (lotions, gels, creams, serums), sun care products (lotions, gels, sprays, self-tanners), anti-aging products, color cosmetics (foundations,mascaras), hair styling (cuticle coats, pomades, gels), antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: X-22-6711D is a non-D5 based, 25% active emulsifier concentrate in 6cs dimethicone. It is an essentially odorless emulsifier designed for personal care application while light and elegant sensory are required.6cs dimethicone is a unique carrier in itself in that the narrow molecular weight distribution renders the product non-irritating and with light, silky, dry and elegant sensory. Additionally, the product is designed to give the formulation chemists latitude in developing sunscreens, color cosmetics and skin care products. The high actives afford formulation space in the oil phase, which is critical for ultra high SPF sunscreens and makeups. Additionally, X-22-6711D has been refined with a proprietary process to remove the odor-generating species; the resultant emulsifier is suitable for fragrance-product, particularly applicable to sensitive skin products.


INCI: Isododecane (and) PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone
Suggested Use Levels: Emulsions 1.5-10%
Applications: Fragrance-free products, sensitive skin products, skin care products (lotions, gels, creams, serums), sun care products (lotions, gels, sprays, self-tanners),anti-aging products, color cosmetics (foundations,mascaras), hair styling (cuticle coats, pomades, gels), antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: X-22-6711B is a non-D5 based, 50% active emulsifier concentrate in isododecane. It is an essentially odorless emulsifier designed for personal care application when fast drying is required. The product is designed to give the formulation chemists latitude in developing sunscreens, color cosmetics and skin care products. The high actives afford formulation space in the oil phase, which is critical for ultra high SPF sunscreens and makeup. Additionally, X-22-6711B has been refined with a proprietary process to remove the odor-generating species; the resultant emulsifier is suitable for fragrance-free products, particularly applicable to sensitive skin products.


INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: Emulsions—2-25%, Anhydrous—15-90%, Hair products—1-30%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners), fragrance gels, color cosmetics (foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers), anhydrous serums, gels, waxes, hair styling products (cuticle coats, gels, emulsions), shower conditioners
Comments: USG silicone elastomer series is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s patented multifunctional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG-107A is a D5-free silicone gel with 6cs dimethicone as the carrier. The unique narrow molecular weight distribution of 6cs dimethicone offers an exceptional cushioning (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long lasting effects. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils, including low molecular weight organic esters and oils.When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel at an affordable price.
  • It’s Magic!

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    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 20, 2017
    Argan oil-infused ‘Moroccan’ lip care brand jumps from WholeFoods into CVS.

  • On the Cutler Edge

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    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 13, 2017
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  • Take The Hint

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  • Supply-Side Innovations

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    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    Raw material suppliers roll up their sleeves and roll out their new products for the global cleaning industry.

  • New Faces in Familiar Places

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    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    The American Cleaning Institute officially welcomed its new president.

  • Special Delivery

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    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
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  • Garden Variety

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    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 1, 2017
    Color cosmetics for Spring 2017 are inspired by the beauty of nature and new beginnings.

  • OTC = TLC

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    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2017
    Over-the-counter treatments provide consumers’ skin and hair with extra care.

  • The Green Dot

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    John Kim and Lambros Kromidas, PhD*, Shiseido Americas||March 1, 2017
    Insights into one of the most used trademarks in the world.

  • An Essential Read

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    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    Industry expert Nadim Shaath takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the history and the future of essential oils.

  • Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

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    March 1, 2017
    In-Cosmetics Global 2017 will take place in London, April 4-6, 2017

  • Trade Association Directory 2017

    February 2, 2017
    Contact details of trade associations that serve various segments of our industry and are mentioned frequently in Happi.

  • What the Halal  Is Going On?

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    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||February 2, 2017
    Demand for these beauty products is surging thanks to a fastgrowing Muslim population.

  • Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Guadalupe Pellon and Annette Mehling , BASF||February 2, 2017
    BASF researchers detail the attributes of the company’s highly effective hair care system focusing on scalp sensitivity.

  • What’s in Style?

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    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    The latest sprays, gels, mousses, serums and creams for hair are filled with luxury components and meet a variety of needs

  • Defining Clean Skin

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    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||February 1, 2017
    A look at the issues, research and history surrounding this controversial topic.

  • Linked In

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    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    Through virtual reality, apps and connected devices, beauty and personal care brands can strengthen their customer relations

  • Hitting the Right Notes

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    January 6, 2017
    Agilex Fragrances is the leader in the middle market fragrance category.

  • The Smell of Clean in 2017

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    January 6, 2017
    Changing consumer lifestyles and demographics are impacting the scents found in the household cleaning category.

  • On the Edge

    On the Edge

    January 6, 2017
    Expanding beauty brands to watch in 2017

  • A New Contender?

    A New Contender?

    January 6, 2017
    Detergent sales are up, innovation continues and Henkel is determined to make it a dogfight in the segment.

  • Engagement 2016

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    January 6, 2017
    CSPA convenes in Fort Lauderdale for annual meeting.

  • Slow & Steady

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    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    In a tumultuous environment, steady gains posted in the industrial and institutional cleaning sector are welcomed.

  • The World Comes to Orlando

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    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
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  • The Plex Phenomenon

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    Denise Costrini, Croda North America||December 1, 2016
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  • New Hair Care Ingredients

    December 1, 2016
    Check out the latest releases from suppliers.

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    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor ||December 1, 2016
    The shampoo and conditioner category is expanding with modern takes on these classic formulations.

  • Perform or Perish

    Perform or Perish

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 1, 2016
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