Pump Up the Volume

May 1, 2009

Fortifying and smoothing SKUs are taking hair styling to new heights.

Pump Up the Volume!

Fortifying and smoothing SKUs are taking hair styling to new heights.

Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor

From that chic razor-cut, angled shag to the tousled, earthy bedhead look, the right hair products make the handywork of a skilled stylist last weeks or even months beyond a visit to the salon. A barrage of brand name mousses, gels and sprays can lift, smooth or even make temporary works of art stay put.

In fact, despite the current challenging conditions, hair styling product sales are on the upswing. Sales rose 1.4% to $1.05 billion in U.S. supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers excluding Wal-Mart for the year ended Feb. 22, 2009, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI) of Chicago, IL. The hair spray/spritz segment increased 1.37% to $411.8 million, while hair styling/setting gel/mousse products slipped 2.76% to $629 million over the year.

TreSemmé Tres Two led the hair spray/spritz category with sales of $39.6 million, followed by Suave, $25.3 million and Salon Grafix, $19.7 million. American Crew, a men’s brand, topped the hair styling/setting gel/mousse category at $26.6 million, followed by Göt2b Glued, $19.4 million and John Frieda’s Frizz Ease, $13.7 million, according to IRI in its report.

The hair gel/mousse segment is considerably more complex than the somewhat prosaic hair spray segment—which works to its advantage, according to Mintel, a Chicago-based market research firm. Unlike hair sprays, gels/mousses can offer a host of features and benefits, ranging from volume and lift to shine and protection.

Several smaller players within the market are developing a strong following among important consumer niches, noted Mintel. Developed in response to specific consumer needs, brands such as Henkel’s Göt2b and Kao’s John Frieda Frizz Ease gained significant traction among younger consumers interested in purchasing these seemingly more “hip” products, available at competitive prices. New products must be clearly distinct from other products on the shelf, and compete either among niche or “masstige” brands, said the Mintel report.

“Styling products are evolving to be more environmentally friendly and green with ingredients that are more natural, less synthetic, fairly traded and yet still giving a high performance and lasting style memory,” said Lauren Consiglio, senior director of styling, Redken U.S., New York, NY. “Another trend we are seeing is the development of ingredients that are easy to wash out but that still provide long-lasting benefits. Trends in new, unique product textures combined with true styling benefits continue to be key in this category.”

Another top trait for hair stylers is a healthy shine. “Sleek hair is always in style, whether you’re sporting smooth, bouncy curls or ultra-straight strands,” said Harry Josh, creative consultant for the John Frieda Collection.

Think Big in Hair Styling

What’s old is new again, and with the return of 1980s shoulder pads and neon hues on fashion runways in 2009, “power hair” is back in style. You know, those gravity-defying locks that can only be made with a strong, volume-boosting product.

This collection from TreSemmé aims to boost tresses for 24 hours.
For Spring 2009, TreSemmé is rolling out its new 24 Hour Body Collection, a series of salon-quality products specially formulated to retain voluminous styles all day, according to the company. The collection features Volume Control Complex, a blend of polymers that blocks humidity, allows hair to retain a style and hold body for up to 24 hours, according to the company.

TreSemmé has categorized the new line into three categories: prep, create and finish. Products in the prep category ready the hair for volume styling. The create category is comprised of three styling products that cater to different hair textures and styling needs to achieve continuous height and body. The finish group includes two products for adding shine and hold to any volume look.

Redken is also living large for 2009 with the recent debut of its Layer Lift 07, a spray gel that adds volume to layered locks while helping to prevent flatness and frizz, according to the company. The product’s new Clean-Feel Technology creates non-tacky style manipulation and anti-frizz control in the form of a lightweight non-aerosol spray. The product joins the Redken Styling Collection that provides volume as the end result.

Pureology is also angling for bigger things with its new PureVolume ThickeningMist, a lightweight, alcohol-free spray that infuses hair with volume, texture and shine while keeping color brilliant. Enhanced with organic botanicals of lemongrass, papaya and ginseng, this aromatic, thermal-protecting formula delivers body and provides flexible control and conditioning without residue or stickiness, according to the company. And, the brand’s exclusive AntiFadeComplex maximizes color retention.

Smooth Moves

Besides adding height and hold, consumers are seeking out stylers that smooth and shine, delivering the look of health and youth to the hair.

Smoothing features, not just for straight hair but curls and waves too, is a top trend this season, according to Luke O’Connor, Suave celebrity hairstylist, Los Angeles, CA. He’s combining volumizers with “the sleek products” to add fullness and a smooth texture—noting Suave Professionals Root Lifter Spray Gel with Suave Professionals Sleek Anti-Frizz Cream as an ideal combination.

Shine is also big for 2009, as it’s the No. 1 sign of healthy hair, noted Stacey Webb, manager, new product development, Joico/ISO, Arcadia, CA.She said, “Consumers want long-lasting style that looks and feels natural and soft to the touch—with time being such an important factor these days, we find that our consumers are looking for ways to achieve a finished/polished look without a lot of effort.”

The salon brand recently launched its Moisture Recovery Styling Crème, targeting those coveting healthy, shiny hair.

Another category leader, John Frieda Frizz-Ease, is taking its original vision to the next level this Spring with three new styling aids that go beyond frizz fighting to address specific styling concerns for each hair type, according to the company. The new formulas provide solutions for heat styling, straightening and curl defining that also prevent and calm frizz, ensuring smooth, flawless, lasting styles. Formulated with a ThermaGuard Complex, all three formulas help protect against damage from heat styling.

Frizz-Ease Heat Defeat, a protective styling spray, is designed to work with heat tools to smooth, straighten and condition hair. This lightweight styling spray provides heat protection especially for high heat tools, according to the company.The unique ThermaGuard Complex not only helps straighten hair, but also blocks humidity and helps protect against damage. Jojoba oil, antioxidants and a softening ingredient silken strands as humectants replenish critical moisture.

John Frieda products treat and protect tresses.
TreSemmé is adding two stylers to its Smoothing Collection—Simply No Frizz Spray Gel, formulated with the brand’s Frizz Defense Complex to lock in a smooth, frizz-free look for up to five washings; as well as a Frizz Shield Finishing Spray, a fast-drying formula containing purcellin oil that creates a protective barrier to block frizz and protect against humidity.

Another mass market brand, Organix, is adding styling aids to its Revitalizing Pomegranate Green Tea collection. The Revitalizing Pomegranate Green Tea Styling Mousse adds texture and control to frizzy hair with a long-lasting hold without weighing hair down or leaving it sticky. Pomegranate, a powerful antioxidant, helps to target dry, brittle hair while awakening follicles for a clean, rejuvenating experience and a luminescent shine, said the company. The Revitalizing Pomegranate Green Tea Styling Whip is a unique blend of silk and keratin proteins formulated to function as a styling aid.

Avon has also reformulated its hair care line to include a few new fortifying and smoothing hair styling products. The Avon Advance Techniques Mirror Shine Spray, a lightweight, leave-in spray that tames flyaways and frizz, is said to instantly make hair appear 90% shinier without weighing it down. It contains advanced silicone smoothers, which strengthen the hair’s inner structure while smoothing and protecting the outer cuticle.

For smooth strands, it’s all about enhancement. “The foundation to everything is working with your natural texture and basing everything off a really great haircut,” said Anthony Barrow, Avon global stylist advisor, Cutler Salon, New York, NY.

Curls and Twirls

Whether smooth waves or perky spirals, curly hair is a niche market on the rise, as hair care companies are finding more ways to tame and shape textured tresses.

“Wave enhancing stylers have appeared on the market this past year bridging the gap in the hair care segment between texture and curls,” noted Stuart Straus, president and chief executive officer of Beautology Brands, Chicago, IL, whose company is well-known for its Charles Worthington London Big Waves collection.

Sunsilk is also targeting the textured consumer with its Captivating Curls and Waves of Envy Collections. The Captivating Curls Gel & Cream Twist creates defined, twisted tendrils and reduces frizz while the Captivating Curls Scrunching Mousse creates full-bodied, controlled locks for a romantic look. Both products are scented with peach and gardenia flowers blended with citrus and floral.

The Sunsilk Waves of Envy Styling products deliver light moisture and conditioning to manage and enhance waves, according to the company. Waves of Envy Gel & Cream Twist delivers an optimal blend of gel and cream to provide the conditioning benefit of a cream and the hold of a gel.

With more than 50 years in the hair business under his belt, Philip Kingsley said he is proud to introduce the latest addition to his growing product collection called Texture & Hold. Developed after years of testing, this new multi-tasking formula is the ultimate styling aid for both men and women, according to the company. The non-flaking, advanced formula offers humidity resistance and ultimate control to lock any style in place.

Bain de Terre is also rolling out a collection for Spring 2009 just for textured hair, All About Curls. Each product is infused with camelina flower, a natural antioxidant and omega-3 rich emollient, which protects and restores moisture for soft touchable curls. The gentle, color-safe formulas in the collection, according to the company, are enhanced by a light floral fragrance and are ideal for everyday use, said the company. The defining cream provides curl control while styling hair.

Salon brand Alterna is aiming to put the “spring” back into lifeless curls with its Caviar Anti-Aging Texture, a paraben-free styling cream designed to tame frizz and define waves while adding moisture to tresses. Containing the antioxidant-rich rhodiola extract, a plant from Siberia that is known for its stress-reducing quality, hair is protected from heat styling while infusing strands with a dose of vibrancy.

“This lightweight formula shields hair from environmental conditions that can cause curls to become unruly,” said Michael Shaun Corby, global creative director of Alterna.“Simply apply a small amount of the product to damp hair for extra definition and protection from wind and humidity. The result is smooth curls that look super healthy.”

A Need for Nourishment

Protection is the most popular facet of hair styling products, according to Ms. Consiglio at Redken.

“Consumers want products that not only style and control their hair, but ones that also protect from the damage of daily styling,” she said, citing Redken’s new Heat Styling range as an example. The collection features Heat Endure technology with ceramides and conditioning agents to protect from styling and the use of hot tools.

Henkel’s Göt2b line also wants to safeguard healthy hair with its new line of styling products with advanced heat protection, Göt2b Guardian Angel. Each product is formulated with an innovative, patented heat-activated polymer technology that delivers proven 425°F heat protection with a glossy finish, according to the company.

L’Oréal’s latest professional line features SPF ingredients for hair.
The curl iron spray creates a smooth frizz-free definition with incredible hold by spraying hair before the consumer uses the curling iron, according to Henkel.

The brand is also rolling out its Styl Tini product line, which aims to offer all-night hold at the club. The collection is cocktail-scented and concocted with advanced technology from the style-setters at Schwarzkopf retail labs, said the company. The Styl Tini Lit Up 24 Hour Xtra Hold + Shine Mousse infuses hair with volume, mirror-like shine and staying power, while the Styl Tini high potency 24 Hour Hair Strengthener restores, fortifies and helps prevent breakage. The Styl Tini Instant Tolerance 24-Hour Anti-Humidity Smoothing Spray is said to create a powerful barrier to humid conditions in order to lock in style.

John Paul Mitchell Systems is tapping the need for nourishment with its new Paul Mitchell Super Strong Liquid Treatment. This daily spritz, said to repair hair from the inside out, features vegetable proteins along with silicones to protect the cuticle. Independent clinical studies showed that after just one application, hair was up to 60% stronger and continued to strengthen after each repeat use, said the company.

Due to popular demand for nourishing products, L’Oréal Professionnel’s hair care system, Série Expert, is bringing back its advanced sun protection range, Solar Sublime, for Spring 2009. When hair is exposed to the sun, it is UVB rays in particular that harm the hair fiber in all three zones of the hair. During periods of high exposure to sun, there is an increased likelihood of chlorine and salt-water contact, both of which can dry out hair, making it brittle and compounding the damaging effects of UV rays.

The L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Solar Sublime product range, which includes a leave-in spray and geleé, embraces the scents of summer with a mouth-watering fruity peach fragrance and offers top UV protection, according to the company. The Série Expert Solar Sublime Leave-in Gelée, the newest addition to the line, is a pearlescent, light-reflecting product that gently styles hair with a light hold and enhanced shine while helping to protect the hair from the sun. It can be applied to damp or dry hair and can also be left to dry naturally. The leave-in spray features a non-greasy formula that forms a lightweight protective film around the hair fiber to keep it nourished and protected. It can be re-applied to damp or dry hair throughout the day for effective, progressive UV protection.

Besides UV protection, keratin is a key ingredient in nourishing strands while styling. This season, hair stylist Peter Coppola is rolling out Keratin Complex by Coppola, a new nourishing system that infuses the protein deep into the hair cuticle. The collection features two styling products—a hair crème and a shine spray.

The Infusion Keratin Replenisher utilizes advanced infusion technology to repair and revitalize hair during blow-drying and flat ironing, according to the company. This high pH Replenisher is designed to open the hair cuticle, distribute keratin proteins and emollients into the hair and then close the cuticle to entrap nourishment. It also features arnica and soy extracts.

2009 is all about retro style, as seen at John Paul Mitchell Systems.
Thermo-Shine is a treatment product developed especially for flat ironing so the iron glides smoothly through the hair, leaving behind a lustrous shine and radiance. Its innovative silicone compound protects against thermal damage as it smoothes, conditions and seals the hair. Betula alba bark extract as well as jojoba oil round out the formulation.

“Keratin replenishes, revitalizes and rejuvenates the hair, creating a younger healthier look,” said Peter Coppola, chairman, Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola, Boca Raton, FL. “It’s the hottest product on the market today.”

Ingredients from the Sea

Besides keratin components, more marketers are looking into marine elements, like sea salt or algae, as ingredients for healthy hair care styling products.

KMS California has bulked up its hair styling collection with the new Hairplay Sea Salt Spray, said to add fullness and texture to hair for a beach look and feel. It contains natural sea salt to provide hair with grip and workable foundation. KMS California’s patented IOPS Inside Out Perfecting System reconstructs the hair from the inside out, while natural ingredients grape and peppermint shield hair from environmental stress.

Ecru New York has also added Marine Styling Balm to the line. This light, fragrant styler is said to add body, shine, and weightless hold without leaving hair feeling flaky or sticky. It contains seaweed extract, made from the cytoplasm and cell walls of seaweed, which is mineral and nutrient-rich to improve circulation through the scalp and make hair elastic. Another high-end brand, Philip B of Beverly Hills, has also added a hair styling spray with sea ingredients called Maui Wowie Beach Mist.

Joico’s latest hair styling addition, Moisture Recovery Styling Crème, also features aquatic elements. The formulation contains a Hydramine Sea Complex, an exclusive blend of hydroscopic marine botanicals and minerals that helps restore the hydrolipidic barrier and prevent dehydration. This marine botanical blend includes: sea kelp, chlorella vulgaris (brown algae) and seawater nutrients (magnesium, sodium, potassium, zinc, manganese and copper), among other ingredients.

For the Guys

From the Average Joe to the metrosexual, the industry now acknowledges the male market as a rising category in hair styling products. After all, guys need to look nice, too.

“This past year, products that make hair look ‘lived in’ have been very popular,” said Paul Wilson, artistic director for Chicago, IL-based American Crew. “Men want their hair to look natural and so they were not into the excessively product-laden/shiny look, but favored products that would bring out the natural texture and shine in their hair.

Mr. Wilson points to American Crew’s Molding Clay as an example, as it “helps maintain touchable shape and texture and has a natural, subtle fragrance.”

The brand has bumped up its set of styling offerings with its new Grooming Spray, a variable hold finishing spray. According to the company, it’s an “incredibly flexible product,” as it’s buildable to layer the right amount of hold. The brand also recently rolled out a Firm Hold Styling Gel, enriched with natural extracts to help hair look thicker with added shine.

Another major rollout for Spring 2009 is the Göt2b Magnetik line for men—said to be the first-ever men’s hair styling collection with “babe-magnet” pheromones. The collection features “style savvy technology” of fragrant stylers infused with a synthesis of the male human pheromone androstadienone, proven to have a positive effect on a woman’s mood. Each product contains tiny bead-filled pheromones that burst during application. The Magnetik Styling Gel is a non-sticky styler said to have a firm yet pliable grip without flaking while enhancing natural shine. The line also features a texturizing pomade and styling cream.

Göt2b also conducted a Spring Break tour to promote the products, looking to attract young male consumers.

More and more personal care brands, such as Axe, are expanding into the burgeoning hair styling market for 2009.
“We wanted the consumer to be able to experience the product first-hand and this means showing off the unique power of pheromones in attracting the opposite sex. We felt that the best way to communicate this would be to touch consumers in a relevant setting, like Spring Break, when guys want to look their best and attract girls,” said Robert Schaeffler, Göt2b brand manager.

Axe Gets into Hair Care

Axe, a leader in the AP/Deo category, also made a foray into the hair styling market this year with the Axe Hair for men. The line also angles the single guy looking for a female companion.

“With the introduction of Axe Hair, we see a tremendous opportunity to meet guys’ needs and help them navigate the mating game,” said David Rubin, marketing director for the brand. “Our products are based on the consumer insight that guys groom to get the girl. Axe Hair is specifically designed to create hair that guys want and girls love.”

Axe Hair products feature an herbal scent with top notes of fruit and birch leaf on a cedar wood base. The styling SKUs range from the Messy Look Paste, which gives locks a russled, just-out-of-bed look, to the Spiked-Up Look Putty that offers hold without the crunch of gel, to the Clean-Cut Look Pomade for a polished façade.

L’Oréal Professionnel is also angling for the male consumer with its new Homme collection, debuting in salons next month. According to the company, these styling solutions provide concise, quick and efficient long-lasting results.Each product is custom-measured with the exact specifications of styling polymers, hydrating humectants, grooming emollients and shine agents to deliver targeted results, according to the company.

Mintel forecasts that hairstyling product sales will rise 11% from 2007 to 2012, climbing to $2.3 billion by 2012.If marketers build on the innovations of today, this trend will follow suit. Combination products, natural ingredients and SKUs that emphasize shiny, healthy hair are just a few future trends, according to industry insiders.

“The trends for products are combos and 2-in-1s. The idea is to keep life simple and compact,” said Mr. O’Connor of Suave. “For styling aids, I would love to see the leave-in volumizing conditioner come to the market.”

Natural derivatives that continue to offer weightless hold, radiant shine and improve hair condition are the next big thing, according to Sean Patrick Harrington, senior director of marketing, Pureology, New York, NY, who adds that another top trend is heat-styling protection.

“In 2010 and beyond, consumers and professional alike will look for products, like Pureology stylers, that include thermal protection or heat-resistant heat resistant barriers to protect against hot tool use,” he said.

Men’s hair is heading toward a cleaner, well-groomed direction, according to Mr. Wilson of American Crew.

“Products that give a bit more shine will definitely be big this coming year, as well as innovation with many brands,” said Mr. Wilson. “At ABS (America’s Beauty Show) this year, it was evident from Crew’s booth as well as others that new products are in the works that have unique applications and consistencies, and will address a multitude of hair concerns, whether it’s layering many products without feeling weighed down or using just one product for a firm hold, it’s all about customization.”

Shine, stick, smooth….shoppers know what they want, and they are on the hunt to find it for daily results.

“Today’s consumer is more educated in hair care technology than ever before,” said Mr. Coppola. “The trend seems to be ‘back to basics,’ as everyone wants more natural, healthy, beautiful looking hair. When you use the right products on your hair, you can have fabulous looking hair every day.”

Hair Styling New Ingredients

Here is a list of new hair styling ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.
For more information about the ingredients listed, contact the supplier directly using the numbers provided.

BASF Corporation

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: (800) 880-5768
E-mail: beautycare-na@basf.com
Website: www.beautycare.basf.com

Luviquat Sensation

INCI name:Polyquaternium-87
Suggested use levels: 2.0, 2.0
Applications: Shampoo, conditioning rinse
Comments: See above for uses.

Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com

Vecorexin Protective

INCI name: Water, butylene glycol, lecithin, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzedwheat protein, tocopheryl acetate, linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, propylene glycol, calendula officinalis flower extract, sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil, glycerin, matricaria (chamomila recutita) flower extract, walnut (juglans regia) shell extract, tocopherol, tripeptide-1, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acryalte crosspolymer, carrageenan (chondrus crispus), xanthan gum, triethanolamine, dimethylmethoxy chromanol, glycolipids, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol.
Suggested use levels: 3-10%
Applications: Hair conditioners, milks, lotions, foams
Comments: A delivery system that contains a selection of actives with strong hair protecting and anti-aging activities. It fights against free radical damage and protects the hair shaft structure against UV radiation and degradation of the amino acids of the hair. It also provides conditioning, strength and enhanced shine to hair. The actives remain anchored to the hair after washing and penetrate with a high diffusion profile on the cuticle and efficient release in the cortex.

Honey Eco

INCI name: Water, propylene glycol, honey extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Hair care, skin care
Comments: Honey is a natural humectant that is rich in hygroscopic sugars like glucose and fructose. This property allows Honey Eco to be a good moisturizing and conditioning agent. Honey also exhibits anti-oxidant activity due to its phenolic compounds, ascorbic acid and enzyme content.Honey Eco is recommended for use in cosmetic formulations aimed at the protection of skin and hair from oxidative processes.Additional details are available.

Tego Policosanol

INCI name: Saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Sebum control products
Comments: Sebum, the oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands, acts to protect and waterproof hair and skin, and keep them from becoming dry, brittle and cracked. It can also inhibit the growth of microorganisms on skin. An excess of sebum, however, can make skin or hair oily. Tego Policosanolwas found to have antimicrobial and sebum control effects that are potentially suitable for oily skin and hair.

Chemsil Silicones, Inc.

Chatsworth, CA
Tel: (877) 700-0302
E-mail: pnuntavong@chemsil.com
Website: www.chemsil.com

Gelaid WSL

INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone (and) vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) cyclohexasiloxane
Suggested use levels: 10-25%
Applications: Styling aids (Chemsil patent pending applications).
Comments: A pre-emulsified silicone gelling agent with an excellent toxicity profile. This compound creates clear, silicone and water refractive index products, specifically developed for cold mix processes. Adaptable to many applications. The multi-phasic characteristics of both silicone and water in Gelaid WSL allow for functional ingredients to be incorporated into clear refractive index products. A first new raw material in a series of pre-emulsified silicones.

Dimethisil HNH

INCI name: Propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 0.25-2%
Applications: Clear 2-in-1 shampoos (Chemsil patented application)
Comments: A 100% cationic silicone fluid with a low toxicity profile. This product is substantive to hair and can create viscous surfactant systems. Compatible in clear, anionic systems. When incorporated in surfactant systems, it provides both shine and softness, and can be formulated in viscous shampoos and body washes without loss of foam characteristics.

Emulsil TSA-60

INCI name: Trimethylsilyam
odimethicone (and) laureth-4 (and) laureth-23
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Deep conditioners, damaged hair reconstructing conditioners, leave-in conditioners
Comments: A high solids, 60% cationic emulsion of an amino-modified silicone fluid with high molecular weight and strong cationic charge. This material is an efficient conditioning agent. Incorporating it in a conditioning formulation creates a premiere salon-style deep conditioner and bodying ingredient, imparting a smooth, silky feel to hair that lasts through multiple shampooing. This strong cationic molecule provides the “it”factor to conditioner formulations. Great for damaged hair.

Ciba Corporation

High Point, NC
Tel: (336) 801-2126
E-mail: hpc@ciba.com

Tinovis CD

INCI name: Dimethylacrylamide/ethyltri
monium chloride methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (and) C10-C11 isoparaffin
Suggested use levels: 0.5-3%
Applications: Leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, styling crème, spray conditioner, sunless tanner, skin cream.
Comments: “Focus conditioning” that provides excellent wet and dry sensory properties without buildup. Multifunctional polymer that provides rheology control, emulsion stability and sensory properties.

Croda Inc.

Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
E-mail: marketing@crodausa.com
Website: www.crodausa.com

Mirustyle X-HV

INCI name: Sodium polystyrene sulfonate (and) dimethoxy PEG-16 maleate
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Heat protecting sprays, clear gels, spritzes, mousses, serums, shampoos, conditioners
Comments: A vegetable variant of Mirustyle X-HP, it is a styling agent that radically reduces the damaging effects of thermal styling tools, while delivering impressive style and hold.

International Specialty Products (ISP)

Wayne, NJ
Tel: (973) 628-4000
E-mail: info@ispcorp.com
Website: www.ispcorp.com

AquaStyle 300

INCI name: Polyquaternium-69
Suggested use levels: 1-5% active
Applications: Positioned for clear and cream gels. May also be added to aerosol and non-aerosol mousses, styling lotions, sprays
Comments: A next generation styling gel polymer that meets the demands of today’s market. It delivers enhanced styling benefits versus traditional hair gel systems. Studies show that it imparts strong, durable, flexible all-day hold, increased shine, frizz control and improved high humidity curl resistance. It provides positive interaction with hydrophobically modified gellants to deliver gel clarity and synergistic thickening. Also meets low VOC requirements.

UltraZThix P-100

INCI name: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.25-2.5% (use level depends on formula type/application)
Applications: clear gels, spray gels, cream gels, hair color applications, anti-frizz/shine/smoothing creams
Comments: A multi-benefit, patented rheology modifier that delivers shear-thinning rheological properties with yield value and positive sensory perception.At a use level of only 1%, research shows that UltraThix P-100 effectively provides enhanced styling benefits, such as natural hold with high humidity curl retention and restylability of hair with easy combing and no flaking, allowing for the formulation of styling gels.

Styleze W-20

INCI name: Polyquaternium-55
Suggested use levels: Up to 2% active
Applications: Color protection products, styling gels (serums, spray gels, clear gels, cream gels), aerosol and non-aerosol mousses, novel stylers (pomades, novel textures), conditioners, shampoos
Comments: Styleze W-20 is a multi-functional styling polymer that offers a wide array of consumer perceivable benefits.Most recently, studies have shown that it is quite effective in protecting hair color from fading from shampoo stripping.Positioned under the company’s ColorTrue Technology umbrella, when it is used in a post-color treatment and included in a color protection regimen, it has been found to significantly improve the longevity of hair color versus not using the system.In addition to color protection, it offers a high degree of humidity resistance, excellent styling attributes, thermal protection along with superior conditioning properties, achievable from rinse-off applications as well.

Jeen International

Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
E-mail: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com

Jeesilc 6056

INCI name: Dimethicone and dimethiconol and laureth-4 and laureth-23
Suggested use levels: 3-15%
Applications: Conditioners, gels, mousses, sprays, shampoos, creams and lotions
Comments: Jeesilc 6056 is a unique water dispersible silicone emulsion. Imparts a soft, silky feel, gives a higher degree of slip, enhances film formation, improves wet combing and conditioning. Useful for formulating at lower temperatures and is designed for easy addition into conditioning and cleansing haircare products.

Jeesilc PS-DMLV

INCI name: Dimethicone and bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Conditioners, anti-frizz hair serums, anhydrous formulations, pomades, ethnic hair, mousses, combing creams, sprays
Comments: Jeesilc PS-DMLV is an easy to incorporate liquid high molecular weight film former with a non-tacky feel. Adds lubricity, conditioning and volume to hair by coating the hair shaft with a water resistant film that functions as a protective barrier upon dry down.Shine enhancement and smooth feel and easy shampoo removability.

Jeelux VHIPM

INCI name: Isopropyl myristate and isododecane and bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 3-25%
Applications: Conditioners, anti-frizz hair serums, pomades, ethnic hair, mousses, combing creams, sprays
Comments: High molecular weight silicone film former with enhanced compatibility in oil and ester based systems. Copolymer useful as a film-former that confers conditioning properties such as good wet and dry combability, smooth feel, volume, shine and manageability without a buildup of residue.Volatile carrier evenly deposits copolymer film protecting hair from heat damage.

Laboratoires Serobiologiques/
Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA
Tel: (800) 668-6023, ext. 251
E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis.com
Website: www.labserobio.com

Purisilk SPB LS 9854

INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) PVP (and) moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Curl-enhancing shampoos and leave-on products, daily care for curly hair, styling and permed hair care
Comments: Purisilk SPB LS 9854 is a botanical complex which improves hair sensorial and mechanical properties. It contains micro-proteins extracted from moringa seeds, which cationic behavior offers a substantive protection against external stress. Tested in a shampoo at 2%, it has been proven to significantly improve the resistance of the curls against pulling-induced deformation. With its strengthening action on curls retention and dynamics, it helps maintain rejuvenated and well-defined curls and enhances volume.

Phytosleek LS 9817

INCI name: Water (and) hydrolyzed soy protein (and) polyquaternium-4 (and) PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: Anti-frizz/straightening hair care products, styling products.
Comments: Phytosleek from LS Hair Salon is a 3-in-1 biopolymer for natural styling of frizzy hair. Thanks to its film-forming capacity and intrinsic substantivity, this active ingredient coats the hair in a flexible layer that significantly reduces frizzing and enables full control of hair manageability. First it straightens the hair, even in humid conditions for an optimal anti-frizz action; secondly it tames unmanageable hair without any build-up effect, ensuring natural styling effect; and thirdly, it offers conditioning properties which make the hair brighter, softer and easier to comb for a full control of hair manageability, with a natural look.

Litchiderm LS 9704

INCI name: Butylene glycol (and) litchi chinensis pericarp extract
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Color styling ranges to protect against color fading, summer hair styling ranges, with a dual style and protect claim.
Comments: To prevent alterations resulting from UV radiations-induced oxidative stress, hair styling products that are of daily use, need to offer additional care benefits. Offering an effective additional anti-oxidant effect, which enables a all-day long protection of the hair fibers against photo-degradation is now possible.
Thanks to its efficient free-radical scavenging effect, this polyphenol-rich lychee extract helps reduce color fading of dyed hair and ensures hair fiber is fully protected against photo-aging. Tests carried out on human hair exposed to UVA radiation have shown that it reduces the formation of UVA-induced free radicals in a dose-dependant effect. Hair color remains shiny and vibrant longer and hair integrity is significantly preserved.

Lincoln Fine Ingredients

Lincoln, RI
Tel: (401) 722-2410
E-mail: PatLutz@lincolnfineingredients.com
Website: www.lincolnfineingredients.com

Lincare PLC Ultra

INCI name: Proprietary blend of all naturally derived INCI surfactants
Suggested use levels: 5-40%
Applications: All types of shampoos, liquid soaps, foaming body washes.
Comments: This ingredient is an ultra mild performance liquid concentrate that is based on naturally derived surfactants from coconut oil, palm kernel oil and sugar. PLC Ultra is DEA, MEA and sulfate free for ease of formulating shampoo, hand soap and related bath and toiletry products. It is self-preserving so when diluted to make a formulation there is no need for adding preservative. Paraben and formaldehyde free

Lincare LO-N

INCI name: Lauramine oxide (naturally derived)
Suggested use levels: 0.3-2%
Applications: All types of shampoos, liquid soaps, foaming body washes.
Comments: Lincare LO-N is 30% lauramine oxide, which is naturally derived from renewable resource based palm kernel oil. It is an effective wetting agent and foam booster for hair care styling products.

Linessential R-4

INCI name: PEG-4 rapeseedamide
Suggested use levels: 0.05-10%
Applications: All types of shampoos, liquid soaps, foaming body washes.
Comments: 90% active PEG-4 rapeseedamide derived from renewable vegetable lipid found in rapeseed oil. Excellent foam boosting and thickening properties.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Neosolue Aquilio

INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate
Suggested use levels: 2%
Applications: Hair care and styling
Comments: NeosolueAquilio is an excellent emollient for water-based formulas.

Yofco MAS

INCI name: Phytosteryl macadamiate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Yofco MAS is a unique treatment product ideal for hair care with excellent moisturizing ability
Comments: This ingredient from Lipo Chemicals, Inc. is a moist, supple and smooth to hair/skin and an excellent gloss and moist appearance.

Presperse LLC

Somerset, NJ
Tel: (732) 356-5200
E-mail: samples@presperse.com
Website: www.presperse.com

Satin Marin/Sea Satin

INCI name: Caprylic capric triglyceride,beta vulgaris (beet) extract
Suggested use levels: 1%
Applications: Global hair care
Comments: This latest ingredient from Presperse conditions damaged hair, increases shine, volume, provides silky feel and moisturization; for scalp: anti-inflammatory, soothing, protects from lipoperoxydation and regulates blood flow.


INCI name: Raffinose
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Cleansing cosmetics, hair, basic skin care, bath, cosmetics powder
Comments: Moisturizing the skin and hair, OligoGGFT keeps from becoming sticky, improves skin texture, helps make-up last longer and keeps preparation from absorbing moisture and coagulating.

SiCloneT SR-5

INCI name: C13-C16 isoparaffin, C12-C14 isoparaffin, C13-C15 alkane
Suggested use levels: 5-60%
Applications:Skin care, hair care, color cosmetics, antiperspirants and personal care.
Comments: SiCloneT SR-5 is a 100% silicone-free, colorless liquid ingredient that provides superior spreading and lubricity properties with unique volatility and solubility characteristics.

Purac America, Inc.

Lincolnshire, IL
Tel: (847) 634-6330
E-mail: pam@purac.com
Website: www.purac.com

Purac HiPure 90

INCI name: Lactic acid
Suggested use levels: .02-1%
Applications: Hair care
Comments: Purac HiPure 90 is a pH regulator with the following benefits: it is natural constituent of hair and skin; it improves body and manageability of hair, providing a better appearance from styling products such as gels, hair sprays and mousses; it is a good humectant tofight frizz and
features moisturizing properties for dried-out tresses; also, this ingredient from Purac American is natural and has a good toxicological and environmental profile for the latest hair care styling products, serving the growing eco-friendly market in the hair styling category.

  • It’s Magic!

    It’s Magic!

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 20, 2017
    Argan oil-infused ‘Moroccan’ lip care brand jumps from WholeFoods into CVS.

  • On the Cutler Edge

    On the Cutler Edge

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 13, 2017
    Top brand source at Redken forecasts up-to-the-minute hair trends.

  • Take The Hint

    Take The Hint

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 13, 2017
    Water brand forays into sun protection by capitalizing on scent and experience.

  • Supply-Side Innovations

    Supply-Side Innovations

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    Raw material suppliers roll up their sleeves and roll out their new products for the global cleaning industry.

  • New Faces in Familiar Places

    New Faces in Familiar Places

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    The American Cleaning Institute officially welcomed its new president.

  • Special Delivery

    Special Delivery

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    UV protection is important, but what good is that sunscreen if consumers won’t apply it?

  • Garden Variety

    Garden Variety

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 1, 2017
    Color cosmetics for Spring 2017 are inspired by the beauty of nature and new beginnings.

  • OTC = TLC

    OTC = TLC

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2017
    Over-the-counter treatments provide consumers’ skin and hair with extra care.

  • The Green Dot

    The Green Dot

    John Kim and Lambros Kromidas, PhD*, Shiseido Americas||March 1, 2017
    Insights into one of the most used trademarks in the world.

  • An Essential Read

    An Essential Read

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    Industry expert Nadim Shaath takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the history and the future of essential oils.

  • Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

    Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

    March 1, 2017
    In-Cosmetics Global 2017 will take place in London, April 4-6, 2017

  • Trade Association Directory 2017

    February 2, 2017
    Contact details of trade associations that serve various segments of our industry and are mentioned frequently in Happi.

  • What the Halal  Is Going On?

    What the Halal Is Going On?

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||February 2, 2017
    Demand for these beauty products is surging thanks to a fastgrowing Muslim population.

  • Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Guadalupe Pellon and Annette Mehling , BASF||February 2, 2017
    BASF researchers detail the attributes of the company’s highly effective hair care system focusing on scalp sensitivity.

  • What’s in Style?

    What’s in Style?

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    The latest sprays, gels, mousses, serums and creams for hair are filled with luxury components and meet a variety of needs

  • Defining Clean Skin

    Defining Clean Skin

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||February 1, 2017
    A look at the issues, research and history surrounding this controversial topic.

  • Linked In

    Linked In

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    Through virtual reality, apps and connected devices, beauty and personal care brands can strengthen their customer relations

  • Hitting the Right Notes

    Hitting the Right Notes

    January 6, 2017
    Agilex Fragrances is the leader in the middle market fragrance category.

  • The Smell of Clean in 2017

    The Smell of Clean in 2017

    January 6, 2017
    Changing consumer lifestyles and demographics are impacting the scents found in the household cleaning category.

  • On the Edge

    On the Edge

    January 6, 2017
    Expanding beauty brands to watch in 2017

  • A New Contender?

    A New Contender?

    January 6, 2017
    Detergent sales are up, innovation continues and Henkel is determined to make it a dogfight in the segment.

  • Engagement 2016

    Engagement 2016

    January 6, 2017
    CSPA convenes in Fort Lauderdale for annual meeting.

  • Slow & Steady

    Slow & Steady

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    In a tumultuous environment, steady gains posted in the industrial and institutional cleaning sector are welcomed.

  • The World Comes to Orlando

    The World Comes to Orlando

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    More than 1,600 chemists traveled to Florida for the IFSCC Congress

  • The Plex Phenomenon

    The Plex Phenomenon

    Denise Costrini, Croda North America||December 1, 2016
    Croda details the hair-protecting qualities of bond multipliers and the company’s new bond-building formulation system.

  • New Hair Care Ingredients

    December 1, 2016
    Check out the latest releases from suppliers.

  • Hair & Now

    Hair & Now

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor ||December 1, 2016
    The shampoo and conditioner category is expanding with modern takes on these classic formulations.

  • Perform or Perish

    Perform or Perish

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 1, 2016
    Success in today’s skin care sector begins with active ingredients, formulated in products that address modern-day issues.