Put to the Test
Testing labs provide services to help marketers boost sales in a slow economy.
Clinically proven. It’s a claim that can make or break a finished product, validating its worth in a sea of similar SKUs. Whether a platinum-infused $1,000 skin cream or $3 disinfecting air freshener, consumers want results from their household or personal care purchases—especially in a time where budgets may limit spending capabilities.
Enter testing service providers.
“Companies, now more than ever, need to stay vibrant in the eyes of their customers,” said David Hinden, president, Essex Testing Clinic, Inc., Verona, NJ.“Despite the economic times, new technologies are driving research. Companies are being more creative and innovative with their formulations so they do not lose their customer base or brand recognition. This means more testing needs to be done on these new developments.”
Howard L. Kaminsky, director of operations, AMA Laboratories, Inc., New City, NY, agreed. “The major trend in the field of cosmetic testing is that products are better and it is becoming increasingly more difficult to find points of superiority, actual or perceived by the consumer, since both are meaningful,” he told Happi. “It is the job of a good testing facility to help identify these points of difference for clients and help them development such advantages in the marketplace.”
|Beauty stores like Sephora are promoting product launches with the offer of free lab samples with purchases.
Keeping Up with the Joneses
As well as operating at peak superiority, successful testing companies must know the ins and outs of their clientele.
“We need to be involved with the industry—go to seminars and trade shows, for example, so that we can be on top of the new methods and technologies,” said Mr. Hinden. “This way, we can insure that we are in sync with industry standards and innovations while educatingour clients.”
At events like the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Suppliers’ Day or HBA Global Expo, it is not uncommon to see testing service booths among ingredients and packaging companies showcasing their wares at the show.
Staying in step with the latest trends can, in turn, improve business practices between the laboratory and its clientele, noted Mr. Kaminsky of AMA. “The ability to understand the client’s business, his products and the competitive nature of the marketplace is important. Because, it is this understanding that determines what the client needs to achieve in testing his or her products and what we can do to help them successfully achieve their desired results,” he told Happi.
In-demand labs possess a strong service-oriented quality, as they need to be acutely aware of and in tune with their client’s needs, noted Craig Weiss, president, Consumer Product Testing Company (CPTC), Fairfield, NJ. They also must be on top of industry standards, deeply knowledgeable about global regulations and on the cutting-edge of new testing technology.
“A successful testing service company naturally partners with their clients to ensure product safety and efficacy testing is both accurate and timely,” he told Happi.
NAD Questions Validity of Test Methods for Eye Product
In claiming a product’s efficacy, the methodology behind the study is imperative—according to The National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus. In recent reports, the organization has recommended that University Medical Pharmaceuticals Corporation discontinue advertising claims for its over-the-counter skin care product, WrinkleFree Eyes.
NAD, the advertising industry’s self-regulatory forum, examined print advertising for the product pursuant to NAD’s ongoing monitoring of national advertising. Claims at issue in NAD’s inquiry included:
• “Clinically proven to reduce wrinkle appearance up to 85% in only 20 minutes.”
• “Results as good as Botox only faster.”
• “Truly effective topical alternative to Botox.”
• “This new technology works in only 20 minutes with results that last up to a week.”
• “Originally developed to deliver medicine into the skin without needles, this breakthrough transdermal process gently works faster, deeper and with less irritation than ever before possible with topical treatments.”
• “You’ll see a dramatic smoothing effect around your eyes in only 20 short minutes that lasts up to a week.”
In response to NAD’s inquiry, University Medical noted that it had conducted an internal study on its own employees and friends, but did not provide the study or disclose the methodology. University Medical did provide to NAD the results of two studies, including one that tested the immediacy of results of the product used in conjunction with various concentrations of retinol and a second that required each subject to use the product on one side of her face.
NAD noted that neither study tested the product as it is marketed and both had numerous methodological flaws. Following its review, NAD determined that the evidence in the record did not support the advertiser’s performance and establishment claims and recommended they be discontinued.
It further noted that the evidence in the record did not include head-to-head testing between topically applied WrinkleFree Eyes and Botox, a product that is injected. NAD determined that the evidence in the record was insufficient to support the wrinkle-reduction claims and comparisons to Botox (including the before and after photographs) and at press time recommended that they all be discontinued.
“Successful labs have the flexibility and expertise to help companies with method development and method transfer, can work around industry restraints such as the current acetonitrile shortage by offering effective alternatives, and enable clients to maximize their budget for quality work with fast turnaround,” she added.
Testing laboratories all over the globe are striving to stay informed for the sake of their clientele as well as their staff members. In fact, matters that pertain to assorted household and personal care services weigh in from the U.S. to the UK and beyond.
“Clearly, ‘recasting’ of the EU Cosmetic Directive has had significant testing impact in both Europe and other global regions,” said Mr. Weiss of CPTC.“Also based in Europe, the current and particularly potential testing impact of the REACH initiative could result in substantial redirection of various testing resources worldwide to support this program.”
In the U.S., proposed changes to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) final sunscreen monograph and the new Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulations will certainly change testing domestically and have worldwide effect, added Mr. Weiss.
On a state level, the California Safe Cosmetics Act could set a precedent with other states, which could potentially follow this lead and require additional product testing.
“Of course, the bottom line trend the consumer will see is that prices on the shelves will continue rising to cover the increased testing and other costs to meet these regulations,” noted Mr. Weiss.
Due to economic pressures, companies are increasingly looking at their contract labs as strategic partners,” added Ms. Lieberman. She said, “Working together, your lab can help you identify what should—or shouldn’t—be outsourced based on core competencies, staff expertise, test frequency and the cost of purchasing and maintaining equipment.”
A Workload Assessment Model, such as the one Celsis uses with its clients, can help companies make more informed decisions about outsourcing, for example.
There are several areas of interest still prevailing in the industry—especially in the area of claim substantiation as it relates to anti-aging and skin refinement, according to Michael J. Muscatiello, Ph.D., chairman and chief operating officer, Clinical Research Laboratories, Inc., Piscataway, NJ.
“With anti-aging ingredients, the focus is on advancing antioxidant properties, compatibility with other active ingredients and natural components,” he said. “Key research and development areas are enhancement of stability of such ingredients, while preventing them from contamination and increasing their efficiency. These points pose challenges to the contract laboratory in areas of method development and cogent experimental design.”
Around the Corner
From a testing perspective, as today’s highly regulated household and personal care market continues to become even more regulated worldwide, significantly greater testing will be needed in 2010 and beyond.
“While ingredient and formulation safety-related testing may dominate in upcoming years, there will concurrently be a trend toward improved quantification of various claims particularly in the cosmetics segment,” said Mr. Weiss of CPTC. “Both bioinstrumentation and contract testing firms will be called upon to continually develop novel techniques and methods to improve claim substantiation particularly as new natural-based materials are introduced and nutraceutical/cosmeceutical claims are generated.”
According to Mr. Kaminsky of AMA Laboratories, the increase in the number of facilities having International Standards Organization (ISO) Certification and the application of these standards to the testing processes offered by these labs is going to be a rising trend for 2010. AMA is already ISO 9001-2008 certified, added Mr. Kaminsky.
ISO 9001-2008 specifies requirements for a management system where an organization needs to demonstrate its ability to consistently provide product that meets customer and applicable statutory and regulatory requirements; as well as aims to enhance customer satisfaction through the effective application of the system, said the ISO website.
Europe’s recent ban on the sale of cosmetics tested on animals has spurred interest in alternative in vitro testing, said Ms. Lieberman.
She told Happi, “We are continuing to expand our testing portfolio of innovative and effective assays that do not rely on live animal (in vivo) testing. The U.S. Dept of Transportation now accepts the Corrositex assay for corrosion testing, and the Bacterial Endotoxins Test replaces many instances of the rabbit pyrogen test.
“An alternative to the Draize test, both ocular and dermal irritation levels can be measured objectively using the Irritection Assay System” Ms. Lieberman added.
Available through Celsis Analytical Services, the Irritection assay is “an excellent, repeatable and lower-cost alternative for product testing.”
All in all, a possible economic turnaround and the spike of new business will truly put the industry’s testing service locales to the test.
Testing Service Providers
Below is a list of testing service providers serving the household and personal products industry.
For more information, contact the company directly using the numbers provided.
4 Enterprise House, Manchester Science Park, Lloyd Street North
Tel: (44) 161-232-4690
Fax: (44) 161-232-4699
Testing Specialties: Human safety and claims support trials for skin care, oral care and nutritional products.
AMA Laboratories, Inc.
216 Congers Road, Building 1
New City, NY
Tel: (845) 634-4330
Fax: (845) 634-5565
Testing Specialties: AMA provides complete bio-physical testing of cosmetics, HBAs and OTC pharmaceuticals on paid human volunteers. We maintain an extensive data base of panelists of all ethnicities and skin types for use by our clients, as necessitated by their product. We can also provide “before and after” high resolution scientific photography, documenting the results of our tests and which in many cases has been used by our clients in developing their advertising and marketing strategies.
1213 Stewart St.
Tel: (972) 254-1429
Testing Specialties: Arkon offers formulationanalysis and performance, microscopy.
Atlas Material Testing Technology
4114 North Ravenswood Ave
Testing Specialties:Natural weather testing; accelerated weather testing.
Australian Photobiology Testing Facility Pty Limited (APTF)
Suite 204-205 Ross St. Building AO3
University of Sydney
New South Wales 2006, Sydney, Australia
Tel: (61) 2-9351-3878
Fax: (61) 2-9351-4732
Testing Specialties: APTF offers sunscreen testing to international standards or guidelines (in vivo and in vitro). Irritancy, allergy, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, skin whitening.
BioScreen Testing Services Inc.
3904 Del Amo Blvd, Suite #801 Torrance, CA
Testing Specialties:BioScreen has built a uniquely focused business model. It is directed at FDA regulated industry, where cGMP compliance is of primary concern in all aspects of outsourced contract testing.
Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc.
11 Commerce Blvd., Middleboro, MA
Testing Specialties: Brookfield’s state-of-the-art laboratory offers a variety of viscosity testing services capable of measuring Newtonian and non-Newtonian fluids using a wide range of spindle geometries. Detailed test results include equipment and measurement system description, viscosity data that includes appropriate tables and graphs, and any recommendations pertinent to your specific material and associated method. Viscosity testing services available: test and recommend; fluid profiling; dispute resolution; and multiple sample test.
4717 Campus Drive, Suite 500
Kalamazoo, MI 49008
Testing Specialties: CeeTox, Inc. offers in vitro toxicology, dermal corosion, dermal irritation, skin sensitization, photo sensitization, photo toxicity,
endocrine disruption, percutaneous absorption and in vitro LD50.
Celsis Analytical Services165 Fieldcrest Ave.
Edison, NJ 08837
Fax: (732) 346-5115
Testing Specialties: Celsis Analytical Services offers a full spectrum of cost-effective CGMP contract laboratory services in analytical chemistry and microbiological testing plus stability and storage programs.
Chemir Analytical Services
2672 Metro Blvd.
Maryland Heights, MO
Testing Specialties: Investigative analysis, custom formulation; deformulation (reverse engineering), contaminant identification, materials identification, formulation development and scale-up, failure analysis, polymer testing; packaging testing, stability testing; competitive product characterization, raw material cost optimization, consulting, litigation support.
Clinical Research Laboratories
371 Hoes Lane, Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 981-1616
Fax: (732) 981-0520
Testing Specialties: Dedicated to conducting human clinical test procedures to determine the safety and efficacy of cosmetic, personal care and OTC drug products. Areas of expertise include dermatology, photobiology, ophthalmology, bioinstrumentation, microbiology, cosmetology, associated services and clinical trials.
Consumer Product Testing Company, Inc.
70 New Dutch Lane, Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 808-7111
Fax: (973) 808-7234
Testing Specialties: Analytical andpharmaceutical chemistry, clinical safety, claims validation, photobiology, microbiology, sterility testing and in vitro toxicology.
Dermatest Medical Research
Tel: (49) 251-4882249
Fax: (49) 251-4902727
Testing Specialties: Patch tests, dermatological application tests, efficacy tests, clinical tests, moisturizing tests, skin wrinkle measurements, skin cell.
2211 W. Orangewood Ave.
Orange, CA 92868
Tel: (714) 937-0750
Fax: (714) 937-0755
Testing Specialties: An in-house laboratory with full accreditations. Antimicrobial preservative efficacy testing (APET) service.
Essex Testing Clinic
799 Bloomfield Ave.
Verona, NJ 07044
Tel: (973) 857-9541
Fax: (973) 857-9662
Testing Specialties: Human clinical evaluations for safety, efficacy and claims support of cosmetics, toiletries, personal care products and household products. Specializing in patch, SPF, photo sensitivity, clinical use trials, acnegenicity and eye area product testing.
Harbour House, 23 Chandlers Key
Maldon, Essex, UK
Tel: (44) 1621-859230
Fax: (44) 1621-851537
Testing Specialties: Consumer product testing, safety efficacy, acceptability.
5475 Paré Street, Suite 206
MontRoyal, Québec, Canada
Tel: (514) 343-0001
Testing Specialties:Clinicalstudies to assess safety and efficacy of cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and nutriceuticals in vivo.
Harrison Research Laboratories
2497 Vauxhall Road
Tel: (908) 688-7600
Testing Specialties: Independent research organization that performs human safety, efficacy and claim substantiation testing of cosmetics, sunscreen and hair products. Testing capabilities include patch, phototoxicity/pho-to allergy, SPF/PFA, ocular and use tests.
Hill Top Research Corporation
6088 Main Street, P.O. Box 138
Tel: (513) 831-3114
Testing Specialties:Phase I safety testing, Phase II-IV efficacy testing, microbiology testing, oral care testing, CRO services.
17751 Sky Park East, Ste. G
Tel: (949) 851-8356, (800) 246-8487
Fax: (949) 851-4985
Testing Specialties: Non-animal testing for eye and skin irritation as well as corrosive/non-corrosive end points.
International Research Services
222 Grace Church Street
Port Chester, NY
Tel: (914) 937-9483
Testing Specialties: In vitro biological efficacy models for anti-aging, pigmentation, inflammation, anti-cellulite, neuro-cosmetology, dermal repair/ wound healing and hair care.In vivo dermatologic and ophthalmologistsafety testing (exclusive or shared panel HRIPT, hypoallergenicity, safety in-use, sensitive skin/sting testing. In vivo dermatologic efficacy testing for claim substantiation (bioinstrumentation assessment of skin collagen, melanin, hemoglobin, hydration, dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, firmness and elasticity, cell turnover, hyper-pigmentation, skin surface temperature, acne, cellulite and hair growth).
Libra Technical Center, LLC
101 Liberty Street
Metuchen, NJ 08840
Tel: (732) 321-5200
Fax: (732) 321-5203
Testing Specialties: Analytical research services in chemistry, microbiology, and materials science for pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and packaging. Compendial analyses, containers, residual solvents and TOC. Authenticity, comparison and infringement.
Q Laboratories, Inc.
1400 Harrison Avenue
Tel: (513) 471-1300
Fax: (513) 471-5600
Testing Specialties: Comprehensive microbiology and analytical chemistry laboratory services.
Q Research Solutions Inc.
3548 Route 9 South, 2nd Floor
Old Bridge, NJ
Tel: (732) 952-0000
Fax: (732) 952-0001
Testing Specialties: Q Research Solutions is R&D’s strategic partner for actionable consumer insights. With 25 years of service in the industry, we’ve developed the best practices for product research from study design to actionable insights.
Rapid Precision Testing Laboratories (RPTL)
P.O. Box 1342
Tel: (901) 386-0175
Fax: (901) 386-7218
Testing Specialties: RPTL is a highly specialized enterprise consisting principally of two full time experts in the various aspects of spectral measurement and photobiological risk assessment. The company offers onsite NIST traceable spectral measurement services for labs and manufacturers seeking spectral certification of test instruments and light emitting products. RPTL is a COLIPA recognized source for certification of solar simulators for sunscreen SPF testing. We offer in-house light measurement services and optical properties of materials testing. Consulting expertise includes FDA compliance for sunlamp products, in-vitro sunscreen test methods, photobiolgical safety of lamps and more services.
Solar Light Company
100 East Glenside Avenue
Tel: (215) 517-8700
Testing Specialties: UV testing
Spincontrol North America Inc.
606Cathcart Suite 620
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Tel: (514) 759-3352
Testing Specialties: Spincontrol North America offers the in vivo efficacy test for cosmetics and nutritional supplements.
Suncare Research Laboratories
2518 B Reynolda Road
Winston Salem, NC
Tel: (336) 725-6501
Fax: (336) 725-6503
Testing Specialties: Sunscreen SPF and UVA protection testing; in vitro UVA protection measurements; Phototoxicity and photoallergenicity.
300 North Street
Tel: (201) 462-5553
Fax: (201) 462-5450
Testing Specialties: Ovens