Features

How Science Is Shaping the Future of Beauty

November 23, 2009

The trend for effective anti-aging treatments is prompting cosmetic brands to look beyond traditional formulations to discover more effective, science-driven alternatives. Researchers at Mintel and the Jump France Group explain what lies ahead for beauty formulations.

How Science Is Shaping the Future of Beauty




The trend for effective anti-aging treatments is prompting cosmetic brands to look beyond traditional formulations to discover more effective, science-driven alternatives. Researchers at Mintel and the Jump France Group explain what lies ahead for beauty formulations.



By Imogen Matthews
Consultant to In-Cosmetics



What do you call a science-based beauty product that actually does what it promises to do? Research group Mintel calls it “Turbo Beauty.”

“Throughout 2009 we have seen a decided pendulum shift to science in beauty, in spite of the abundance of organic launches in the U.S.,” explained Nica Lewis, head consultant, Beauty Innovation, Mintel. For example, science is behind many of the innovations in facial color cosmetics with high tech scientific actives, such as peptides, in new foundations, powders and primers. There is increased focus on fast results with time/speed claims and a jump in the number of clinically tested products, which is a step up from “dermatologically tested” as a claim, according to Lewis.

Whereas anti-aging claims traditionally use language that targets wrinkles and lines and talks about preventing oxidation from free radicals or boosting collagen and wrinkles, marketers are expanding claims with new terms, many of them borrowed from medicine.

“Gene therapy and longevity science are driving innovation in preventive anti-aging medicine and beauty today,” affirmed Lewis, who sees this development among the new generation of anti-aging Turbo Beauty launches.

For example, Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Cream is the result of 10 years of research that found a link between skin youth and a person’s genes. In other words, the true origin of a person’s skin’s youth lies in their genes, which are expressed by producing specific proteins detectable on the surface of the epidermis. The proteins diminish with age, but Lancôme claims to have created a range of products aimed at re-boosting the activity of the youth genes.

Sirtuins and Such



Stem cell technology for use in skin care was first reported by Mintel in 2007, with the U.S. launch of Amatokin Emulsion for the Face. Priced at $173, it was one of the first topical compounds shown to “highlight the expression of human stem cell markers in adult skin.” In 2009, Klapp Stri-Pexan Phyto Stem Cell came out with botanical stem cell technology that used an active ingredient obtained from apple stem cells. The products in this range claim to help protect DNA and counteract premature skin aging.

Sirtuins are another anti-aging development appearing in new product launches. They are a family of enzymes found naturally in the body that are said to prolong the lifespan of cells and slow the visible aging process. An example is Natura Bissé The Cure Pure Serum that boldly claims to reverse signs of aging through its SIRT-AP Complex, a cutting edge peptide complex derived from soy and oryza sativa rice that allegedly prolongs the lifespan of cells and slows down the aging process. Sirtuins are even finding their way into men’s skin care with the U.S. launch of Alford & Hoff, whose Sirtuin-Activating Complex (SIR2stac Complex), claimed to have proven antioxidant properties and long-term effects on anti-aging. It contains amino acids, vitamin C, sea fennel, antioxidants, lavender extract, rice extract, tetrapeptides 7, dipeptides, pro vitamin B5 and beta-glucan.

As cosmetic scientists look toward the world of medicine for anti-aging concepts, medical beauty is moving mainstream, according to Dora Jurd, senior beauty consultant at Jump France Group. “Botox will be used more and more in prevention and will be used by ever younger women (under 20) for prevention of the first wrinkles,” she predicted. “This trend will force cosmetic companies to seek new anti-aging products beyond the classical anti wrinkle formulations.”

High-Tech Makeup



Mintel has already spotted a post-injection makeup with skin care benefits called Teosyal Cosmeceuticals Covering Repair Tinted Cover-Up Skin Care, launched by Teoxane Laboratories, best known for its injectable dermal fillers.

Jurd maintains that light technologies will become more popular than injections and that classical invasive techniques will become less intrusive. “Instead of destroying the skin as we do today, the trend will focus on saving it. Light technologies will increasingly be combined (e.g., LED mixed with lasers or IPL) to optimize the result with minimum pain. And new softer lasers will destroy less skin surface,” she said.

The Epigenetic Theory



Looking even further ahead, Lewis believes that epigenetics may also play a part. “A new theory argues that genes can be affected by the lifestyle of the carrier’s parents and grandparents,” she explained. “The science of epigenetics claims that the diet, smoking habits, pollutant exposure and obesity levels of ancestors could affect individuals in the present day.

“We will see even more patents, advanced technology and clinical testing come into play as companies attempt to convince people that their claims are true,” she added.

Simpler Solutions



If all this sounds as if the beauty markets are becoming over-complicated, Jump has predicted a parallel trend back towards simpler and more basic solutions, even in anti-aging.

“Cosmetic firms are launching ‘global’ anti-aging skin care products for all ages and all skin types, such as Serum 7 by Boots,” said Jurd. “After the success of age and skin condition segmentations, we are coming back to the universal anti-aging product.”

In parallel to these developments, Jump is seeing evidence of the so-called slow movement spreading from other sectors, such as slow food, slow design. The Slow Movement is about addressing the issue of time poverty through making connections to people, our community and to ourselves, so that we live a more connected life. Slow aging, according to Jurd, has come about with the increase in organic consumers.

“For them, slow is synonymous with luxury,” added Jurd. “In terms of cosmetics, they prefer slow anti-aging treatments; e.g., massages, long spa treatments, medical coaching, to rapid and high tech ones, such as injections lifts and other aesthetic medicine solutions.”

About In-Cosmetics
Mintel and Jump France Group will participate at next year’s In-Cosmetics’ trends presentations, which takes place in Paris, April 13-15, 2010. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Kitchen Counter Cosmetics

    Kitchen Counter Cosmetics

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    LOLI box marks the convergence of natural and organic ingredients, subscription service and DIY cosmetic chemistry.

  • What’s New at La Prairie?

    What’s New at La Prairie?

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||April 25, 2016
    VP of marketing shares the latest buzz with Happi.

  • Mapping Out Multicultural Beauty

    Mapping Out Multicultural Beauty

    April 25, 2016
    Agnieszka Saintemarie of Kline Group about current trends and challenges in multicultural beauty.

  • Bite Now

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Is the time finally right for beauty-from-within to move into the mainstream?

  • Boxed Out?

    Boxed Out?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||May 2, 2016
    Salon sales outpace mass-market results in the highly competitive, highly fashionable and yes, highly-colorful hair color cat

  • That’s Awesome!

    That’s Awesome!

    May 2, 2016
    Extracts & Ingredients highlights the newest ideas in efficacious oils for the personal care market.

  • Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||May 2, 2016
    The silicone maker had a good 2015 and expects the gains to continue in 2016, driven, in part, by success in the Americas and

  • I Want It All

    I Want It All

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Skin care moves beyond the basics with pampering formulations with unique components and novel functions.

  • Erasing the Signs of Aging

    Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely, David Boudier, Sylvain Mazalrey, Jenny Laumonier, Isabelle Cruz, Gu00e9raldine Bon, Karine Perrinet, Bu00e9ranger Tassy, Brigitte Closs, Silab R&D, Saint-Viance, France||May 2, 2016
    Silab researchers explain how by acting on the endogenous hyaluronic acid pathway.

  • The Zika Threat

    The Zika Threat

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Concerns are spreading about transmission of this mosquito-borne disease.

  • The New Spot For Acne Care

    The New Spot For Acne Care

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    Acne Treatment Research Center opens in Morristown, NJ.

  • The Essence of Individuality

    The Essence of Individuality

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Fragrance sales are fueled by unique facets.

  • The Scalp Microbiome

    The Scalp Microbiome

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||April 1, 2016
    A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders.

  • Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Established brands and start-ups address the needs of multi-cultural beauty consumers.

  • Who Makes That?

    Who Makes That?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    From concept and formulation to testing and filling, today’s contract manufacturers perform a range of services for marketers

  • Inspiring the Next Generation Of Personal Care Products

    Inspiring the Next Generation Of Personal Care Products

    March 1, 2016
    In-Cosmetics 2016 returns to Paris next month, April 12-14, 2016.

  • Playing Doctor

    Playing Doctor

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2016
    The OTC aisle offers a wide array of no-prescription-needed treatments.

  • Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shyam Gupta, Ph.D., John Stanek and Melinda Wochner, Bioderm Research and CoValence Laboratories, Inc.||March 1, 2016
    The enemy, it seems, is all around us. Researchers explain how to alleviate damage caused by a variety of villains.

  • Makeup Magic

    Makeup Magic

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 1, 2016
    Sales get a lift from novel ingredients and endorsements from the likes of Gwen Stefani.

  • Feel the Burn?

    Feel the Burn?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    Sun care product sales rise, but more must be done to make sure compliance rates grow.

  • New Sun Care Ingredients

    March 1, 2016
    Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care that have been introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. For information regarding any of the products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

  • Cleaning Up

    Cleaning Up

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    At the American Cleaning Institute’s 90th Annual Meeting & Industry Convention attendees work on regulatory issues and hammer out business deals.

  • Supply-Side Solutions

    Supply-Side Solutions

    Tom Branna , Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    Executives from leading detergent industry suppliers sat down with Happi during the recent annual meeting of the American Cleaning Institute to discuss the problems, products and answers that are transforming the cleaning space.

  • Cleaning Industry Heads to Singapore

    Cleaning Industry Heads to Singapore

    March 1, 2016
    The World Conference on Fabric and Home Care, sponsored by the American Oil Chemists Society, will be held Oct. 4-7 in Singapore.

  • Electric Slide

    Electric Slide

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    Skin care devices bring anti-aging to the next level

  • Crowning Glory

    Crowning Glory

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    Celebrity stylists and experts from leading hair care brands talk about the ingredients and formats driving the styling sector.

  • Innovation On Display

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    P&G Beauty Digital Studio showcases new products for 2016

  • Testing for Sustainable Preservatives

    Adam P. Byrne, William Michael Hart-Cooper, Kaj Johnson, Larry H. Stanker, Dominic W. S. Wong, William J. Orts||January 4, 2016
    A rapid, inexpensive and qualitative protocol for determining microbial growth inhibition.