Full Color Spectrum

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | August 11, 2011

Beautiful color cosmetic looks are obtainable at every price point for Fall 2011.

Anything goes for color cosmetics this Fall—as long as it’s vivid and of high value. From smoky eyes framed by groomed brows to high shimmer lipglosses against a clean canvas of skin, consumers will be queuing up to splurge on the latest rollouts in both prestige and mass…after all, as in fashion, the “high/low” mix of both markets is what makes a look truly unique.

Rising consumer confidence, aggressive promotional activity and technological advances have propelled US sales of cosmetics and toiletries by 2.4% to reach $36.5 billion in 2010 at the manufacturers’ level, according to recently released data from worldwide consulting and research firm Kline & Company. According to Kline, all trade classes registered some growth in 2010. Leading the way was makeup, which registered a 4.4%gain. Within this segment, nail polish sales rose 20.4% thanks to new product activity.


Select Mary Kay Creme lipsticks will be sold for a good cause this season.

“This hunt for additional quality has been spearheaded by marketers’ extensive innovation efforts,” explained Carrie Mellage, director at Kline’s Consumer Products Practice.

Within mass, color cosmetics (face/lip/ eye), are holding their own , staying almost flat at $2.76 billion for the year ended May 15, 2011 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass market retailers excluding Walmart, according to SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm.

According to SymphonyIRI Group, facial color cosmetics are still in demand, as sales increased 6% to $1.02 billion in the category. Eye makeup jumped 8% to $1.2 billion. Lipcolor rose 1% to $532.9 million. Colorful fingers and toes are still on trend, as nail polish sales soared 20% to $363.4 million, reported SymphonyIRI.

US sales of prestige makeup sales increased 3% to $3.2 billion for 2010, according to The NPD Group. The increase was fueled by the double-digit growth of offerings from primers to anti-aging face products, to rich color options in lip and nail, five of the six segments within makeup posted growth. Three segments either met or outpaced category growth: face (+3%), lip (+3%) and nail (+39%). Eye (+2%) and other color (+1%) grew, but slightly behind the category. Gift sets declined in dollars, but had unit growth of 3%. After a long period of decline, prestige lipcolor sales are growing again, according to new research conducted by The NPD Group. From January through April 2011, the total prestige lip segment grew 7% to $185.2 million in US department stores and increased 4% in units to 9.8 million. The lip segment includes lipcolor, lipliner, lipgloss and lip applicators. But according to NPD data, the real star of the segment was lipcolor, which increased 11% to $92.1 million in sales.

“What is particularly noteworthy of the trend in lipcolor is that we are seeing these significant increases in sales at a time when overall usage of lipcolor appeared to be dropping off. Coming out of the recession, it seems that the consumers thirst for color and play was reawakened,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “In 2010, we saw the preference for rich as well as retro colors and in 2011 we are seeing new neutrals come to the fore. As the fashion industry increasingly features bold as well as understated lip statements on the runway and in advertisements, lip color appears to be getting its groove back.”

Five Questions With Carmindy

Best known for her makeup tips and tricks on TLC’s hit show “What Not to Wear,” Carmindy is a renowned fashion makeup artist celebrated for her dramatic beauty metamorphoses.

Her mission is to transform everyday women into their most beautiful selves with her cosmetics line with Sally Hansen, Natural Beauty Inspired by Carmindy. This “cosmeticista” took time to chat with Happi about Fall 2011 colors.


Happi: What are the biggest trends for Fall 2011 in color cosmetics and why?
Carmindy: Blood red and wine stained lips with glowy skin, peachy cheeks and almost nothing on eyes but mascara and/or shimmery shades of deep navy, graphite and metallic grays swept across the lids with almost no blush and pale glossy lips. It’s really about only choosing one feature to play up and being barely there with the rest of your makeup. It’s minimalist statement makeup!


Happi: What are the hottest ingredients in color cosmetics for Fall 2011 and why?
Carmindy: Natural antioxidants, because it’s just as important to apply these age fighters topically as it is to ingest them in the foods we eat. That is why my whole line of Sally Hansen Natural Beauty Inspired By Carmindy line is chock full of them!


Happi: What qualities are consumers looking for in their color cosmetic products?

Carmindy: Women are really looking for brighter clearer skin and makeup that looks undetectable on the face. Skin brightening agents like hydroquinone and fruit acids keep skin looking glowy; while concealers, foundations and blush that mimic the skin’s natural texture like my Your Skin Makeup or my Sheerest Cream Blush in Beaming creates and natural flawless look that nobody will ever know is makeup. They will just think you have impeccable skin.


Happi: What color stories are on trend—for example, bold brights or neutrals?

Carmindy: Neutrals paired with one bold statement is the new chic look. It’s all about playing with one feature at a time with color otherwise we look like the 1980s all over again where we used color on every feature. The 1990s were all about too minimal, and now the 2000s have us in a perfect balance of natural with a pop of color.


Happi: What are the future trends in color cosmetics for 2012 and beyond?

Carmindy: We will see makeup that delivers everything at once from anti-aging, sun protection, natural looking, healing and correcting all in one. The technologies are moving rapidly and so are our products.

Get The Look

This season, it’s really not about focusing on one feature. According to Shawn Towne, national educator for Jane Iredale, New York/New Jersey region, in runways shows, tastemakers are seeing multiple features enhanced but with a modern twist.

“For eyes, we’re seeing a lot of softly smoked eyes in warm tones.It’s a nice alternative to the dark overdone eyes we’ve seen in so many previous collections,” he told Happi. “Many designers showed models with warm browns, oranges and coppers smudged and blended above and below the eyes.This is accentuated with heavy mascara and staggered individual lashes.Brows are full and softly enhanced, not thin and drawn-on. For lips we’re seeing both soft, nude lips with a more matte finish and we’re seeing intense bright reds in varying levels of depth. Our new Naturally Confident collection really nailed the trends this season, and our Go Warm Eye Steppes and Passion Lip Fixation are perfect representations of these new looks.”

Hot fall shades/looks will be classic eye shadows like monochromatic metallics and sultry grays, metallic navy liner, deep merlot red lips, coral flushed cheeks, full beautiful brows and satin skin, noted Sarah Lucero, pro artist, Stila, Los Angeles.

“Overall, I simply love the beauty, balance and sophistication we have seen so far for beauty this fall,” she told Happi.

A top fall trend in eyes is the “extreme smoky eye” to create a mysterious look, according to Betsy Olum, general manager of beauty and merchandising strategy, HSN, New York. “The key is using a bold eyeliner more prominently and less shadow,” she told Happi. “Big lashes are on trend with the use of great lengthening mascaras. Our HSN customer is looking for products that provide a‘wow’ effect like, for example, mascara that gives them longer, fuller-looking lashes.”

Loren Ridinger, senior vice president of Market America, Greensboro, NC, contends that this season, select color combinations rule the roost.

“On the runways, it’s about contrast; pairing neutrals with bolds. On one hand, bold, smoky eyes are complemented with nude or coral lips, accentuating the eyes. On the other hand, soft, healthy, natural skin paired with bright lips in orange and wine/berry colors are truly making a lasting impression. Orange was big this summer, and is carrying over into fall and winter—but it’s more of a burnt orange, instead of bright orange,” she said.

However, the nude lip is a staple regardless of season, noted Chad Hayduk, co-founder and creative director, Three Custom Color Specialists, New York.

“Versatile nude lips were showcased in a variety of finishes on the runways; from matte, to pearly, to glossy, and some with a touch of coral,” he told Happi. “In fact, we loved the idea of a lively nude so much, that we created a complexion-flattering shade called Nude Attitude that’s a creamy, coral-based nude that avoids the typical washed-out beige look.”

New and Noteworthy



Clinique’s latest innovation are antioxidantliquid eyeshadow “smoothies.”


A variety of collections are set to debut this Fall—and there’s no shortage of innovation. For makeup that goes the distance, Avon is rolling out the Extra Lasting Collection for Fall 2011. After all, most women juggle multiple jobs all day—why shouldn’t their makeup do the same?

Products in the Extra Lasting collection are formulated to help maintain quality, according to the company. SKUs range from an SPF 15 lipstick with medium-to-full coverage satin-finish color to a mascara that offers up to seven times the volume increase and wears for 18 hours to a mattifying powder.

Color cosmetic innovation is also huge at L’Oréal right now, as seen with its latest launches for 2011. Products include L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Le Gloss, a lip color said to deliver rich hues, high-wattage shine and creamy moisture with argan oil, omega 3 and vitamin E; Waterproof Million Lashes Mascara for all-purpose wear and Carbon Black Million Lashes Mascara for “2X the intensity of the original black,” said the company. Other SKUs include L’Oréal Paris Visible Lift Smooth Absolute ($16.95), an age-reversing liquid foundation with a click-through brush, as well as L’Oréal Paris Double Extend Eye Illuminator Eyeliner ($8.95), a dual-action pencil.

M·A·C is forever asking “why not?” when it comes to the miracles of makeup—always exploring new ideas about the many ways we long to look and feel different for a day, a night, a lifetime. With the help of props and makeup, artist Cindy Sherman transforms herself into different characters. Therefore, the two teamed up in Cindy Sherman for M·A·C, a line that creates three “characters” using three different color stories. Products range from eyeshadow quads to lipsticks to kohl pencils.

The brand also recently named Nicki Minaj and Ricky Martin as its newest spokespersons to represent the 2012 Viva Glam campaign launching in February 2012. To date, the fund has raised $224 million exclusively through the sale of its Viva Glam lip products donating 100% of the sale price to fight HIV/AIDS.

Another tidbit for Fall 2011 comes from pop icon Madonna and her teen daughter Lourdes (also known as Lola). The pair is making a foray into the cosmetics category with an expansion of their Material Girl fashion line sold at Macy’s. The brand extension includes scented body lotions, washes, body mists, lipglosses and nail polishes with product names such as Sinful Sugar, Midnight Magnolia, Wicked Watermelon and Flirty Fruit. The line is priced from $7 to $20. Additional eye palettes are planned for later in the season, according to reports.

Prominent Products

Besides compelling collections, there are always those standout SKUs that inspire a shopper to try and buy. Almay helps women fake a full night’s rest with its new Wake-Up Undereye Concealer, a lightweight liquid blend with cucumber, green tea extract and minerals that works to refresh the look of tired eyes, according to the company. The product delivers a cooling sensation while helping to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness, as well as providing light to medium coverage with a soft luminous finish.

The power of the pen…or shall we say, pencil…is another top trend for Fall 2011, as seen at Urban Decay. Following the chunky stick trend of the summer, the marketer is set to debut Urban Decay Super-Saturated High Gloss Lip Color, “the creamiest, most sumptuously pigmented, truly all-in-one chubby pencil to ever hit your lips,” according to the company. Available in five dynamic shades, Super-Saturated High Gloss Lip Color offers bright fun colors paired with creamy or metallic sparkle finishes. The formulations feature plant derivatives such as phytosterol, which promotes skin hydration, protects and even rejuvenates the delicate skin on the lips.

Bold color is also big at Bobbi Brown, who rolls out a High Shimmer Lip Gloss. This new formula features a special mix of pearls in a clear base for the ultimate in shimmer, shine and color, said the company. Moisturizing emollients as well as vitamins C and E condition and offer antioxidant protection. And, after countless requests from lipgloss aficionados, Brown’s sized up all her glosses—including the new High Shimmer Lip Gloss—and added a convenient doe foot applicator.

A little charity goes a long way at Mary Kay. As part of its Beauty That Counts initiative, three limited-edition shades of Creme Lipstick–Give Joy, Give Dreams and Give Hope–will be available starting Sept. 16. The company will donate $1 from the sale of each product to The Mary Kay Foundation in its efforts to end domestic violence. Each Creme Lipstick features special packaging that reads “thank you” in 13 languages.

The Eyes (Still) Have It

Anti-aging foundations are a top trend this Fall.

Leading the pack in category rollouts for Fall 2011 are innovations for the eyes. From tinted lid primers to full-fringe mascaras, there is something for everyone to make the peepers pop! CoverGirl is introducing a new liquid-to-powder eyeshadow that wears for hours, according to the company. Intense ShadowBlast consists of a built-in primer, which contains a long-wear waterproof polymer and offers rich color with waterproof wear.

This Pat McGrath-designed shade story comes in six vibrant hues.

Clinique is also heavy on longwear eyeshadow with Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour Eye Colour. Infused with nourishing ingredients, these longwearing cream shadows deliver rich, crease-resistant color that stays put for eight hours, according to the company. Using a unique “cooling” applicator, the skin care-infused formula helps visibly rejuvenate the delicate eye area while revolutionizing the application process. The formula includes an antioxidant-rich blend including extracts of vitamin E, broccoli, carrot, blueberry and spinach; cucumber, aloe vera and caffeine to help revitalize and refresh the appearance of tired eyes; as well as collagen-boosting peptides to help smooth skin texture.

On tap at Estée Lauder are Pure Color Eyeshadow Duos. According to the company, this new “wardrobe of color” includes addictive shades that vary in intensity and finish and contain exclusive technology for a flawless, color-true application. Finishes include matte, with jet-milled coated pigments that provide a contemporary, suede-like finish; satin, a low luster texture combined with a refined luminosity creates a softly sophisticated sheen; shimmer, with prismatic light-reflecting pearls that provide a chic, vivacious sparkle; metallic, where flattened and round pearls are paired to create intense, energetic drama; and frost, an icy shimmer that creates a high-shine with illuminating pearls for a chic glimmer.

Exclusive to Pure Color, True Vision Technology, a unique concept of wrapping concentrated pigments into a crystalline laminate, creates a multidimensional look and saturated application of color, according to the company. A blend of spherical and smooth powders delivers a flawless application.

“I think for me it’s about having a collection of colors where you use your own vision to create a world of many looks. The possibilities are endless in this new collection,” explained Tom Pecheux, creative makeup director, Estée Lauder, New York.

Executives at Bare Minerals see opportunity in duos and even quads with the new Ready to Wear 2.0 and 4.0 solid eyeshadows that will debut in October.

Created through a unique cold-pressed method, the company combined its proprietary SeaNutritive Mineral Complex–composed of positively-charged sea minerals extracted from nutrient-rich algae and seaweed–with powerful antioxidants, cold-pressed borage oil, caffeine and cucumber. It looks like a powder but feels like a cream with a non-drying formula that delivers a beautifully smooth application of vibrant long-wearing color plus incredible skin-renewing benefits, according to the company.

Meanwhile, shaking up the airwaves at QVC and soon to hit Sephora stores, the latest innovation from naturals marketer Josie Maran is an eye-opening, portable 2-in-1 pen featuring argan-infused gel liner and eyeshadow with two expert applicators. The Rapid Eye Makeup Pen features longwearing gel eyeliner on one end and a mini liner brush on the other. The middle houses a coordinated eyeshadow in a spring-loaded sponge tip applicator for single stroke eye definition. Infused with Maran’s signature ingredient, argan oil, both the gel liner and the eyeshadow impart healthy, nourishing eye care, said the company.

Also noteworthy in the prestige marketplace is Too Faced’s line extension on its Shadow Insurance primer. The product has been infused with a lemon-yellow tone that neutralizes redness and ruddiness while ensuring eyeshadow shades are clear and true every time. A vitamin-enriched formula glides over lids, smoothing sensitive skin while leaving behind a feather-light, cashmere finish.

And where would color cosmetic news be without the latest from mascara category leader Maybelline? It is expanding its Falsies franchise with the new Falsies Flared by Volum’ Express, the latest way to get instant false lash glam in a tube. According to the company, Falsies Flared mimics the look of dramatic flared false lashes, lifting lashes up, out and over the top, giving us that “dramatically flared” look. A tall, flat spoon brush adds to this process, along with a flexible-hold formula enriched with kera fibers and a film former that help coax lashes up and out.


Almay rolled out a brightening underye concealer.

Rimmel is also bulking up its mascara portfolio with a few different SKUs this season. The Volume Accelerator Mascara features an exclusive Grow-Lash Complex with volume boosting ingredients procapil, keratin and caffeine; while Sexy Curves Full Body Mascara features a new Triple Plump Brush for up to 10X more volume, according to the company. An exclusive collagen formula, made with natural waxes and vitamins E and B, works in tandem with the Triple Plump Brush, transforming lashes to voluptuous, oversized fringe. An Extra Wow Lash Mascara is said to pump up lash volume by up to 12X with a lash building formula featuring patented LashTouch complex with natural waxes for instant volume and length. The oversized brush lifts and separates, coating each lash with a pro-vitamin B formula for added conditioning andshine. It is only available in one shade—Extreme Black, but of course!

Forthcoming trends in color cosmetics are more of the same—but with evolution in technology and warmer/cooler hues to match the fashionable looks of the season. If 2011 is any indicator of what’s next for color, the future is going to be bright, according to industry experts.

The trends moving into the Spring/Summer 2012 season reflect a sense of spirituality within the consumer and nature, observed Hayduk of Three Custom Color. He told Happi, “Water tones in greens and blues will be popular paired with subtle neutrals in sands and stones. Lip colors will be warmer and sheer reds, corals and persimmons. Pops of bold color in teal, violet and citron will be among the accent colors we will see. Deeper shadowy hues such as smoke gray and black and ash browns will serve as anchors.”

This fall, we’ll see a few key beauty trends mimicking some looks from the runway, while other trends are inspired by years past, observed Maureen Kelly, chief executive officer of Tarte. She said, “On the eyes, shadows will remain more neutral (specifically taupe tones), but there’ll definitely be some experimenting with liners. For instance, we’ll see jeweled smoky eyes created with plum, olive and navy liners. The classic, defined line with black liquid liner continues to be a must-have look.”

“My guess is that complexions will become increasingly flawless,” said Towne of Jane Iredale. “For many years, the fashion industry rejected visible foundation and matte skin. We wanted to see every freckle, every pore. Although this trend was cute on young models, it wasn’t very practical for real women who may not have perfect skin. I think one of the main focuses in 2012 will be a return to a beautiful flawless complexion. Women are becoming less afraid of concealer and powder. They like a foundation with some coverage and they don’t want any distractions to get in the way of beauty.”

“Future trends will play off the current experimentation with bold color blocks and shimmering metallics, incorporating blues, yellows, peachy pinks, violets and roses into the growing palette,” noted Ridinger of Market America.

“Of course, the best way to accentuate the trends of 2012 will be to choose a pop of color as a simple statement. Rather than competing with multiple trends or colors at one time, consumers will use classic neutrals to highlight and support one bold choice,” she said.

When all’s said and done, according to Olum of HSN, “upcoming trends include innovation in cosmetics that help the customer easily use products that they would normally be afraid to try.”

Pleasing to the Palette

Sets and kits are their own category in the beauty department—offering consumers a variety of product for a value price. Therefore, marketers are coming up with exciting new color combinations for the season by way of palettes. Here’s a few hot launches for Fall 2011:


• The wearable, neutral shades in Stila’s new Naturaleyes Eye Shadow Palette ($39) will complement all of the fall fashions and any eye color, according to the company. The 10 award-winning shadows are packaged in a palette inscribed with an inspiring quote from Stila’s Celebrity Pro Artist Sarah Lucero. Each palette also comes complete with an eight-page look book with how-to tips and tricks and an exclusive shade of Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner in Damsel, a matte chocolate brown.


• Inspired by the artistic beauty of New York City’s eclectic neighborhoods, Paul & Joe introduces three color palettes ($46 each) which each include five vibrant shades to contour eyes, highlight and blush cheeks, according to the company. New for Fall 2011, the color palettes contain daytime, evening and night looks imprinted with art deco designs reminiscent of the city’s unique and famous architecture. Each palette comes with a perfectly petite blush brush and eye color applicator. Pictured is the Chelsea variation.


• Tarte for True Blood Palette ($52) is inspired by the hit HBO series. This limited-edition kit is packed with 17 eyeshadows, a full-size EmphasEyes Aqua-Gel Eyeliner in black, a deluxe Lights, Camera, Lashes! natural mascara and a deluxe Lifted Natural Eye Primer with Firmitol.



• The Nordic Trek Collection, new from Sue Devitt, was inspired by the pristine landscape of Iceland. The limited edition Illuminating Eye Shadow Quad ($37.50) features four pigment rich, moisture-rich pearlescent shades that light up eyes with smooth long-lasting color. Create a bold Arctic look with deep blue and aqua shades or choose the neutral shades for a perfect daytime eye. Made with a healthy blend of orchid extract and free-radical fighting antioxidants, eyes are left pretty and protected.


• Girls on Film, the latest fall color collection from Smashbox, includes the SmokeboxPhoto Op Eye Palette ($42), where you don’t have to be a makeup expert to create camera-ready smoky eyes. According to the company, this foolproof palette makes it simple with six perfectly coordinated Photo Op Eye Shadows in dramatic shades. Scan the tag or peel back shade label on palette for application tips.



• The third of Urban Decay’s 15 Year Anniversary items is the Eyeshadow Collection ($55). Packed in a bejeweled gunmetal box, the set features 15 mesmerizing shades with the perfect mix of neutrals and brights, darks and lights—all utilizing the brand’s signature “low binder” formula, pairing cashmere-soft textures with strong pigment.



• Three Custom Color Specialists’ Shimmering Lights Lipsticks are turning 10 years old and to celebrate, the company is rolling out a special set ($45). Originally launched in 2001, these sparkling and soft lipstick shades were inspired by the celestial sky, sparkling water and the brilliant cityscape of Hong Kong. This fall, 10 Shimmering Lights sheer shades in both cool and warm tones will be available in a slim, convenient palette.

• Exclusive to Sephora for Fall 2011 is Lorac’s Ooh La Lace palette ($36), a baked shimmer/matte combination set. Six smoldering colors are packaged in a lingerie-inspired lace palette. The eyeshadows can be used wet or dry.


Color CosmeticsIngredients

Here is a list of new color cosmetic ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.


• BASF Corporation

Florham Park, NJ

Tel: (800) 880-5768

Email: personal-care-na@basf.com


Chione HD Digital Pink

INCI: Synthetic florphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide

Suggested use levels: 0.3-15%

Applications: Color cosmetics; facial makeup and eyeshadow

Comments: Chione HD pigments provide a bright, clean color; combining the best of high chroma and purity. Perfect for today’s high definition makeup, HD Digital Pink, and our other popular colors, help create an illuminating, youthful patina. All Chione colorants are very low in trace heavy metals.

Chione HD Pixel White

INCI: Synthetic florphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide

Suggested use levels: 0.1-8%

Applications: Color cosmetics; lip care and eye makeup

Comments: HD Pixel White provides a very sparkly, white effect, which accentuates lip and eye areas beautifully. It has low trace heavy metals, and provides distinctive illumination and texture.

MultiReflections SoftSparkle Sunflower

INCI: Mica (and) silica (and) titanium dioxide

Suggested use levels: 0.1-8%

Applications: Eyeshadow, lip care, nail care, bath and body

Comments: MultiReflections pigments impart a sense of depth, glow and radiance in formulations. Soft Sparkle Sunflower provides a controlled color travel effect, which can delicately enhance dark or olive skin tones, creating lightness and splendor.

• EMD Chemicals/Rona

Philadelphia, PA

Tel: (888) 367-3275

Email: rona@merckgroup.com

Website: www.emdchemicals.com

Colorona Imperial Topaz

INCI: Mica (and) bismuth oxychloride (and) iron oxides

Suggested use levels: Can be used with minimum amounts as small as 0.2% in nail polish applications, however, no limitation on usage level

Applications: Mineral makeup, powders, lipstick/gloss, primers, lotions, nail polish

Comments: Offers a balance of transparency and rich brown color along with superior skin adhesion properties

Colorona Syncolors(Copper, Bronze and Cranberry)

INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) iron oxides

Suggested use levels: 2-25%

Applications: Suitable for all applications particularly eye and lip

Comments: Metallic shine with low heavy metal content from extremely pure substrate

Ronaflair EFX

INCI:Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) bismuth oxychloride

Suggested use levels: 3-15%

Applications: Face powders, foundations, eye shadows, primers

Comments: Offers a touch of luminescence with a velvety feel that glides over the skin

• Grant Industries

Elmwood Park, NJ

Tel: (201) 791-8700

Email: info@grantinc.com

Website: www.grantinc.com

Gransil PSQ

INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Suggested use levels: 2-10%

Applications: Pressed powders, loose powders, foundations, makeup primers, eyeshadows

Comments: High performing spherical powder providing enhanced aesthetics to formulations. Delivers excellent slip, fluidity and overall skin feel. Optimized soft focus, light diffusion and wrinkle correction to hide unwanted lines and wrinkles. Strong de-tackifying and anti-caking properties for pressed powders.

Gransil PC-12

INCI: Isododecane (and) polysilicone-11

Suggested use levels: 5-80%

Applications: Anhydrous makeup primers, liquid foundations, concealers

Comments: Volatile elastomer dispersion in isododecane that provides an elegant light skin feel to formulations. Transformation into matte appearance with powdery after feel. Strong compatibility with organic UV filters for SPF formulations.

Gransil EP-9

INCI: Polysilicone-11 (and) water (and) laureth-12 (and) phenoxyethanol(and) ethylhexylglycerin

Suggested use levels: 5-45%

Applications: Liquid foundations, concealers

Comments: 60% elastomer powder emulsion ideally suited for "instant" soft focus effect formulations. Performance comes from its concentrated elastomer content that provides an intensified wrinkle blurring property to lines and wrinkles. Easily combined with pigments and active ingredients.


Wayne, NJ

Tel: (800) 622-4423

Email: personalcareinfo@ispcorp.com

Website: www.ispcorp.com

Ceraphyl 791

INCI: Isocetyl stearoyl stearate

Suggested use levels: 5-10%

Applications: Traditional lipsticks, lipbalms and lipglosses

Comments: This Ecocert approved ingredient for emolliency in lipsticks imparts a dry initial feel and lubricious after-feel. Ceraphyl 791 is a long-lasting emollient with little to no taste or odor.

UltraThix P-100

INCI: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer

Suggested use levels: 0.25-2.5%

Applications: For suspension of pigment in liquid cosmetics.

Comments: This ingredient may be used in a range of liquid cosmetics, including eyeliner formulation. It is compatible with metal oxides and has sufficient shear-thinning to aid in delivering a smooth line to the eye.

• Jeen International, Inc.

Fairfield, NJ

Tel: (973) 439-1401

Email: info@jeen.com

Website: jeen.com

Jeesperse CPW-BC

INCI: Theobrama cacao (cocoa) seed butter, sodium polyacrylate, beeswax

Suggested use levels: 0.1-15%

Applications: color cosmetics, personal care

Comments: Make your emulsions at room temperature. Adding your waxes cold is not a problem. Develop pourable emulsions that are stable and easy to make. Eye shadows, lipglosses, blushes, mascaras or foundations can be made cold and easy.

Jeesperse CPW-CG

INCI: Cetyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, glyceryl stearate, caprylic/capric/triglyceride

Suggested use levels: 0.1-15%

Applications: Color cosmetics, personal care

Comments: Sprays and creams can be made at room temperature. Add the CPW to water and mix. Jeesperse’s can speed up development time. CPW’s are easy to make, easy to modify and easier to produce prototypes that are ready to evaluate. Eyeshadows, lipglosses, blushes, mascaras or foundations can be made cold and easy.

Jeesperse CPWN-Sun Guar

INCI: Helianthus annus (sunflower) seed wax, cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum. And capryllic/capric triglyceride

Suggested use levels: 1-4%

Applications: Color cosmetics andpersonal care products

Comments: All natural wax and gum that can be used at room temperature. Change the feel of an existing product with the addition of 1-2% of CPWN-Sun Guar.

CPWs can be combined to extend the range of textures. Eyeshadows, lipglosses, blushes, mascaras or foundations can be made cold and easy.

• Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ

Tel: (973) 345-8600


Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Lipobutter Refined Organic Babassu

INCI: Orbignya oleifera seed oil

Suggested use levels: 1-10% and >

Applications: Useful for lip products, eye care products and all colored face makeup

Comments: Lipobutter Refined Organic Babassu exhibits outstanding stability, is high in lauric acid and is an excellent film former.

Lipobutter Refined Kokum

INCI: Garcinia indica seed butter

Suggested use levels: 1-10% and >

Applications: Useful for lip products, eye care products and all colored face makeup

Comments: Lipobutter Refined Kokum has outstanding stability, is high in lauric acid and is an excellent moisturizer and a good source of essential fatty acids (oleic, stearic, palmitic and linoleic).

Lipocol HCO-50

INCI: PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil

Suggested use levels: 0.5-5%

Applications: Useful in foundation make-up, emulsion mascara

Comments: Lipocol HCO-50 is a solubilizer, pigment dispersant, wetting agent and secondary emulsifier and can be used in a wide range of acidic and alkaline


• Lubrizol Advanced Materials,Inc.

Noveon Consumer Specialties

Brecksville, OH

Tel: (216) 447-5000

Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com

Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare

Schercemol DISM Ester

INCI: Diisostearyl malate

Suggested use levels: Varies per application

Applications: Recommended for use in eyeshadow, face powder, blusher and wet and dry face makeups. In lipsticks, Schercemol DISM ester can be used to reduce feathering and bleeding.

Comments: Schercemol DISM ester is a rich emollient that functions as an excellent wetting agent and binder for powders and pigments. With its high contact angle, Schercemol DISM is ideal for applications requiring targeted delivery.

Schercemol TIST Ester

INCI: Triisostearyl trilinoleate

Suggested use levels: Varies per application

Applications: Used for moisturization properties in lip care formulations.

Comments: It is a highly viscous emollient with super gloss and moisturizing characteristics. It also offers emolliency, viscosity, shine and good binding properties.

Schercemol PDD Ester

INCI: Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate

Suggested use levels: Varies per application

Applications: Helps to enhance water resistance and is recommended for use in long-wear lipsticks, smudge-proof mascaras and water-resistant sunscreens.

Comments: Commonly used for dispersion of pigments and pearlizing agents, and for its moisturizing properties. Its substantive, long-lasting characteristics and its ability to add shine also make it useful in hair styling aids such as texturizers and pomades. Raw material authorized by Ecocert, complying with the standards for ecological and organic cosmetics. All major raw materials derived from vegetable sources.

• Sabinsa Corporation

East Windsor, NJ

Tel: (732) 777-1111

Email: kavita@sabinsa.com; deborah@sabinsa.com

Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com


INCI: Ceasalpina sappan bark extract

Suggested use levels: Up to 2% w/w

Applications: Natural color, antimicrobial support, anti-aging support

Comments: The heartwood of Caesalpinia sappan has been used for centuries to prepare dyes. The product imparts two colors, Brazilin (yellow) and Brazilein (dark red).The colorant has multifunctional cosmeceutical benefits in soothing and protecting the skin.

• Sensient CosmeticTechnologies

Saint Ouen L’Aumône, France

Tel: + 33 1 34 48 57 00

Email: contact@sensient-cosmetics.com

Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com

Unipure LC FHP

INCI: Ammonium C6-16 perfluoroalkylethyl phosphate (and) CI 77491 (or) CI 77492 (or) CI 77499 (or) CI 77891

Suggested use levels: 0.1-30%

Applications: Makeup, skin care and sun care

Comments: High purity, hydrophobic and lipophobic surface treatment applied on high purity pigments enhancing wear resistance due to perspiration and sebum resistant nature, ideal for long-lasting makeup.

Covapearl Star AS

INCI: Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77492 (or) CI 77891

Suggested use levels: 0.1-30%

Applications: Makeup, skin care, hair care and sun care

Comments: Hydrophobic pearls with a superior sparkling luster, good transparency and higher purity than natural mica-based pearls. No grayish effect, good compressibility and excellent adhesion to the skin.

Covarine Black WS 9199

INCI: CI 77266 (black no.2) (and) glycerin (and) water (and) PVP (and) preservatives

Suggested use levels: 0.1-25%

Applications: Makeup, skin care, hair care and toiletries

Comments: Unique aqueous dispersion of carbon black for hair and cosmetic applications. Paraben-, PEG- & PEO-free. No milling, no volatile dust. Excellent stability in time avoiding free particles < 100 nm.

• TRI-K Industries Inc.

Northvale, NJ

Tel: (201) 750-1055

Email: info@tri-k.com

Website: www.tri-k.com

OleaClear Olive Squalane

INCI: Squalane

Suggested use levels: 0.1-50%

Applications: It functions as an emollient and is used as a base or vehicle in the production of creams, foundations, eye makeup, lipstick, nail care products, and many other cosmetic applications. It is also used as a perfume fixative.

Comments: Oleaclear Olive Squalane is now Ecocert. Throughout the history of cosmetic chemistry, squalane has been a well-known base ingredient for makeup and skin care formulators.

In squalane’s traditional form, it became popular for its emolliency properties giving skin moisturization and softness without leaving an oily residue and after-feel. Pressures in the industry to move towards plant-based ingredients made olive oil derived squalane a natural choice, and with advancements in technology, our OleaClear Olive Squalane is shown to perform equivalently to traditional shark-oil forms.

In addition to its emoliency and skin-feel, OleaClear Olive Squalane offers many important advantages: it increases skin respiration and prevents loss of moisture for creams and foundations; in pressed powders it helps to bind the pad and gives a smooth even application; it lowers the melting point of substances so they can become physiologically active; and it exhibits high resistance to oxidation and degradation when exposed to extreme temperatures.

With an excellent safety profile and acceptance worldwide by regulatory agencies, our Ecocert Oleaclear Olive Squalane is an ideal ingredient for the cosmetic formulator seeking high quality squalane from a renewable, reliable and natural source.




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