Features

Breakthrough Active Naturals Grow in Personal Care Sector

By Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics | November 10, 2011

Two hot topics, anti-aging and naturals, combine to create a dynamic growth sector in the global personal care market.

While growth in the global personal care market has been affected by the economic downturn, consumer demand for naturals has remained strong. Satisfying this demand, though, is very much a case of balancing contrasting needs, including the desire for scientifically proven ingredients alongside more natural products.


Euromonitor confirms that growth in personal care ingredients is slowing and forecast to grow at less than 2% per annum through 2013. The recession has certainly impacted product choices, while growth has been restricted due to the maturity of certain markets in developed countries. One area that is bucking the trend is natural/organic personal care products, although it remains a niche market. A much greater opportunity is coming from mainstream brands that are adding botanical extracts to their products. An example is L’Oréal-owned Vichy, which has incorporated rhamnose, a naturally-derived active ingredient found in a Brazilian plant, into its newest Liftactiv Derm Source anti-aging range. With seven pending patents, as many clinical studies and two in vivo studies, this ingredient was chosen out of 50 potential ingredients by Vichy scientists for its ability to stimulate activity in what it terms the “superficial” dermis, described at the compartment of the skin that helps regenerate youthful characteristics, such as firmness and smoothness.


As demonstrated by this example, even with natural ingredients, the science is still extremely important. According to Euromonitor, natural products won’t succeed unless there is enough scientific evidence to convince increasingly demanding consumers. Its research suggests that antioxidant ingredients from naturals, such as polyphenols, plant extracts and ACE vitamins, are one area that is continuing to develop, due to widespread consumer recognition of their role in natural protection.


An interesting development noted by Euromonitor has been a strong focus on ingredient blends and blending of multiple agents, rather than the use of a single active ingredient. One recent significant launch that reflects that trend is La Roche-Posay’s Derm AOX anti-aging serum, which is said to be the first serum to tackle both oxidation and glycation, believed to be the twin causes of older-looking skin. The product combines a blend of active ingredients to achieve this, including vitamin C and pycnogenol (pine extract) to act as antioxidants and carnosine to inhibit the glycation process and maintain skin suppleness.


Botanicals Dominate


According to Anna Ibbotson, industry manager for chemicals and materials practice at Kline, botanicals dominate the ingredients market due to their natural positioning and the extensive range of products available that address almost any skin care related functionality.


“Botanical suppliers are periodically launching new products, therefore expanding the already wide range of products available,” she points out. “They are looking to new sources for a combination of efficiency and a positive image in the mind of the consumer. Differentiation between different products is done on their source and efficacy data linked to a particular product.”


Through its long-term analysis of “truly natural” versus “natural inspired” formulations, Kline has discovered that a number of brands have improved their formulations to become more natural. They include Avalon Organics, Aveda, Jurlique, Korres, L’Occitane, The Body Shop and Tom’s of Maine. However, one of the main challenges facing companies wanting to include active naturals in their formulations is that the consumer does not always know the difference between what Kline describes as truly natural, pseudo natural or natural inspired products.


Nancy Mills, industry manager, consumer products practice, Kline, explains why: “This is because of lack of awareness in general, although this is reversing at different rates in different regions, confusion about natural certifications and the varying legal requirements for labeling. For example, in China and India, full ingredient disclosure is not required by law.”


A further challenge facing companies is the cost of formulating efficacious products naturally, which is still high compared to not using natural ingredients. This is especially true for certain categories, such ashair care.


“The consumer doesn’t know what to choose. Even if he or she is willing to pay more for natural products, they don’t know if it is worth it and why in many cases,” maintains Mills. “So formulating truly naturally is not always paying off for marketers, even though Kline believes that in the medium- to long-term it will.”


Specialty Actives & Anti-Aging


Specialty actives, such as surfactants and rheology control, continue to outpace personal care ingredient growth, according to Ibbotson.


“Historically, activity was the most important purchase criteria, but as consumers become more ‘savvy’ they want an ingredient with a natural source,” she explains. “Animal-derived products in most categories are less desirable than something that is plant based.”


According to Kline, European consumption of specialty actives for personal care applications is forecast to grow at an average annual rate of approximately 4.6% by value for the next five years. For this growth estimation, price fluctuations are not taken into consideration and are held constant over the next five years. According to Kline, the overall specialty actives market is expected to take advantage of the general growth of the personal care industry.


Anti-aging actives account for almost two-thirds of total European consumption of specialty actives for personal care, notes Kline, with sales estimated at approximately $212 million in 2010.


“In terms of finished products, anti-aging ingredients represent the best opportunity for specialty actives due to their important share of the personal care market, but also due to their usual higher price compared to other product types,” concludes Ibbotson.


As one of the most important themes in personal care, anti-aging is likely to continue to be a key focus for formulators, according to Euromonitor’s research, suggesting that further scientific research into the most effective ingredients, many of them natural, is inevitable.

 

In-Cosmetics 2012 will take place April 17-19 in Barcelona.

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Patent Update

    Patent Update

    July 28, 2016
    Three-layered hair product from Lauder, palm oil extracts for wrinkle treatment and more in recently awarded patents.

  • Pushin’ the Cushion

    Pushin’ the Cushion

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 26, 2016
    AmorePacific, the creator of the cushion compact, continues to improve its unique product.

  • Senior Skin Care

    Senior Skin Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 19, 2016
    McCord Research and Product Quest Manufacturing roll out new hospital-grade skin care kits for seniors to use at home.

  • Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Industry stakeholders convene in New York City for Organic Monitor’s annual event

  • Perceived Perfection

    Perceived Perfection

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    From primers to pressed powders, facial cosmetics help create the illusion of a flawless complexion.

  • Preserve & Serve

    Preserve & Serve

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Suppliers with innovative preservatives provide staying power for formulations.

  • Take Notice

    Take Notice

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Packaging trends revolve around trendy artwork, eco-conscious materials—and portability is a plus too!

  • Virtual Reality

    Virtual Reality

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    An update on nature-identical ingredients for cosmetics and personal care products.

  • Shiseido Advances in the US

    Shiseido Advances in the US

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    New facility in Windsor, NJ demonstrates its dedication to the US and other markets outside Japan.

  • Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Experts at the IRI Growth Summit explain how to make personal connections with customers.

  • For the Love of Lipids

    For the Love of Lipids

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    AOCS and SCC to deliver a program geared to cosmetic chemists of the important role that fats and oils play in a healthy skin

  • April in Paris

    April in Paris

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    In-Cosmetics sets attendance record in its return to the City of Light.

  • That’s Awesome!

    That’s Awesome!

    May 2, 2016
    Extracts & Ingredients highlights the newest ideas in efficacious oils for the personal care market.

  • Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||May 2, 2016
    The silicone maker had a good 2015 and expects the gains to continue in 2016, driven, in part, by success in the Americas and

  • I Want It All

    I Want It All

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Skin care moves beyond the basics with pampering formulations with unique components and novel functions.

  • Bite Now

    Bite Now

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Is the time finally right for beauty-from-within to move into the mainstream?

  • Boxed Out?

    Boxed Out?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||May 2, 2016
    Salon sales outpace mass-market results in the highly competitive, highly fashionable and yes, highly-colorful hair color cat

  • The New Spot For Acne Care

    The New Spot For Acne Care

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    Acne Treatment Research Center opens in Morristown, NJ.

  • The Scalp Microbiome

    The Scalp Microbiome

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||April 1, 2016
    A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders.

  • Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Established brands and start-ups address the needs of multi-cultural beauty consumers.

  • Who Makes That?

    Who Makes That?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    From concept and formulation to testing and filling, today’s contract manufacturers perform a range of services for marketers

  • Inspiring the Next Generation Of Personal Care Products

    Inspiring the Next Generation Of Personal Care Products

    March 1, 2016
    In-Cosmetics 2016 returns to Paris next month, April 12-14, 2016.

  • Playing Doctor

    Playing Doctor

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2016
    The OTC aisle offers a wide array of no-prescription-needed treatments.

  • Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shyam Gupta, Ph.D., John Stanek and Melinda Wochner, Bioderm Research and CoValence Laboratories, Inc.||March 1, 2016
    The enemy, it seems, is all around us. Researchers explain how to alleviate damage caused by a variety of villains.

  • Makeup Magic

    Makeup Magic

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||March 1, 2016
    Sales get a lift from novel ingredients and endorsements from the likes of Gwen Stefani.

  • Feel the Burn?

    Feel the Burn?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    Sun care product sales rise, but more must be done to make sure compliance rates grow.

  • New Sun Care Ingredients

    March 1, 2016
    Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care that have been introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. For information regarding any of the products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

  • Innovation On Display

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    P&G Beauty Digital Studio showcases new products for 2016