Crowning Glory

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | December 1, 2011

Consumers want high-quality shampoos and conditioners to smooth and strengthen hair from the inside out.

“Hair style is the final tip-off whether or not a woman really knows herself,” Hubert de Givenchy told Vogue in July of 1985. Shiny, healthy tresses complete any ensemble, and are relatively easy to obtain with a fresh haircut and the right shampoo and conditioner. And, once a shopper finds a formulation that delivers, there’s a good chance she’ll come back for more when it’s time to replenish the supply.

According to data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm, shampoo and conditioner sales at FDMx outlets (excluding Walmart) topped $2.4 billion for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 2, 2011. The shampoo category increased 3.2% to $1.4 billion, with contributions from regular shampoo ($1.1 billion), dandruff shampoo ($278 million) and shampoo & conditioner “combo packs” ($22 million). Meanwhile, hair conditioner and cream rinse category sales jumped 4.6% to more than $957 million.

In SymphonyIRI Group’s current Times & Trends Report, “Brand Loyalty: How Understanding Brand Equity Impacts Brand Loyalty and Delivers to the Top and Bottom Line,” the firm uncovers insights into what drives consumers to seek out their preferred brands and highlights recommended strategies for winning the hearts and minds of today’s savvy, conscious shoppers. In personal care, shampoo topped brand loyalty at 65.9%—up 2.8 points over 2008, according to the company.

“Interestingly, nearly all of the categories in which brand loyalty gains were highest already have fairly high levels of brand loyalty,” said Susan Viamari, editor of Times & Trends, SymphonyIRI. “In fact, loyalty is more than 50% in nine out of 10 categories shown—a striking reminder that true loyalty can survive even prolonged economic upheaval.”

Furthermore, in Mintel’s 2011 hair care report, the market research company noted that consumers increased their purchases of shampoos and conditioners with premium natural/organic formulations, as seen with Aveeno Active Naturals, Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition, L’Oréal Hair Expertise Everstrong and Nexxus Humectress. The restaging of the popular brand Pantene also contributed to growth in the hair care aisle.

Manufacturers also continue to explore the gender-specific male products with such brands as Axe and Suave for Men, both of which have garnered sales growth from 2010-11.

“Consumers are looking for shampoo and conditioner that will create smoother, frizz-free hair as well as improve hair health,” noted Virginia Lee, Euromonitor International, senior research analyst, Chicago, IL. “As a result, sulfate-free shampoos have become popular with consumers as they are marketed as being better for hair; i.e., without stripping out oils and color.”

Today’s consumers are also looking for short ingredient lists with an emphasis on “pure” and “natural” ingredients, added Lee. For example, the popularity of argan oils in salon hair care products such as Moroccan oil has migrated into the mass market. The new Garnier Fructis Smooth & Shine products feature argan oil and apricot oil.

Shoppers’ interest in the expensive and controversial Brazilian keratin treatments has also led to more shampoos and conditioners including keratin. Organix introduced an Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy line that features a sulfate and sodium chloride-free shampoo with keratin proteins, said Lee. Fruit extracts featuring exotic fruits continue to be popular. The new Nuance Salma Hayek line sold exclusively at CVS features shampoos with mamey fruit and açai extracts.

Supply & Demand

Industry experts agree that when it comes to qualities shoppers are seeking out in shampoo and conditioners right now, it’s all about multi-tasking. Whether it’s smoothing, hair health, a fresh scent or foamy feel, consumers want it all in their shampoo/conditioning SKUs.

“The biggest benefits consumers are looking for in their daily hair care are products that repair or enhance its health for beautiful, manageable hair,” said Carlista M. Condé, Pantene R&D section head, P&G, Cincinnati.

“Specifically, those that continue to be popular are shampoos and conditioners that provide shine, a smoothing benefit, and strengthen hair against damage. There are always other additional factors that affect what women think of their products, such as fragrance/scent and how it feels while they are using the product, but Pantene’s approach always begins with hair health,” she noted.

For example, Pantene shampoos are designed to clean hair without stripping it, and Pantene conditioners offer a range of performance from light conditioning to the most intense conditioning to provide solutions for the range of hair types around the world.

“Performance naturals” continue to be in demand as a fruitful area for innovation, added Condé. These materials, such as the cassia conditioning ingredient in Pantene’s Nature Fusion collection, are derived from natural ingredients and, most importantly, actually offer a performance benefit.

“The entire Nature Fusion shampoo formula was created around this ingredient so that it would efficiently and effectively strengthen hair against damage in addition to cleaning it,” she told Happi. “Today’s ‘performance natural’ ingredients go beyond the formula—women also want more earth-friendly packaging. Pantene’s latest Nature Fusion news is the plant-based bottle made with up to 59% plant-based materials.”

Shoppers are also short on time while they are saving the Earth, so they want high-performance, multi-purpose shampoos and conditioners that both accomplish their primary purposes (cleansing/conditioning), while leaving the hair soft, frizz-free, shiny and ready to be styled, noted Mark Stiller, founder/CEO, It Factor, Los Angeles. His shampoo and conditioner products utilize the exclusive VaporBoost System, which combines ingredients that work together to speed up the natural process of evaporation by reducing the attraction or bond between the hair shaft and water. Reducing the bond makes it easier for the water molecules to escape and turn into water vapor. It Factor’s Quick Blowdry Shampoo and Conditioner duo is said to reduce blow-dry time by up to 50%, according to Stiller.

Preserving color is also a key facet to marketing shampoos and conditioners. One of Alterna’s newest additions, the Bamboo UV+ Color Care collection, utilizes kalahari melon as a key ingredient.
Collected from South Africa’s Kalahari Desert, this melon extract is known for its ability to thrive in extreme conditions. According to Michael Shaun Corby, global creative director, Alterna Professional Haircare, Los Angeles, the company incorporated the ingredient into its Bamboo UV+ products for its nourishing properties and its naturally adaptive defense system that protects hair from UVA and UVB damage to prevent color-fade. In addition to using this unique ingredient, the Bamboo UV+ products also contain rinse-resistant Color Hold UV+ technology, an innovation that allows the UV filters in the formula to remain on the hair throughout the shampooing process, according to Corby.

“So when it comes to the hottest ingredients, the newness and the innovation, I’d say that more is more!” he told Happi.

Malibu C Color Wellness hair care products are formulated with antioxidants to treat damaged tresses.

Malibu C’s newest hair helpers, Color Wellness Shampoo and Color Wellness Conditioner, are designed to keep every shade looking stunning and infused with health, and they do it with an Ecocert-ingredient complex that is ripe with nature’s most potent, 100% vegan ingredients, according to the company. A Color Wellness blend of essential oils leaves a heavenly scent of sugared mango and lychee on freshly shampooed and conditioned hair. Infused with Malibu’s unique Ecocert-complex, Malibu C’s Color Wellness Shampoo owes its efficacy to a 100% vegan blend of antioxidant pro-vitamin B5, which protects against environmental toxins; organic aloe, which helps soothe an irritated scalp and retain healing moisture; and betaine, a sugar beet-derived ingredient which protects the scalp from chemical irritation. Built to follow and support this step, Malibu C’s Color Wellness Conditioner makes use of flax-and rice-based proteins to provide an effortless, silky comb-through and swinging, healthy manageability to every strand. Meanwhile, natural UV absorbers and vitamin E help maintain hair’s moisture balance while protecting against brassiness and fading, two of the biggest barriers to maintaining the vitality of hair color.

Smooth Moves

The smoothness of the hair is one of the key components that the beauty industry strives to achieve. Shine and movement is what creates the beautiful texture to the hair, noted Joey Noufal, founder, Noufal HairColor Studio, Vienna, VA. Therefore, there are a variety of rollouts this season cashing in on this craze.

One of the bigger smoothing launches for the season is from Redken. The category leader introduced All Soft with Interlock Protein Network (IPN). Reformulated with Redken’s exclusive new delivery system, the IPN, and Keratin Enrich Complex, new All Soft dramatically transforms the texture of dry, brittle hair, according to the company. Argan oil-enriched shampoo and conditioner formulas restore hair’s protein, comprised of keratin, for renewed elasticity and intense softness.

Redken’s All Soft SKUs features both a delivery system and keratin complex that treat brittle hair.

“Ingredients that provide strengthening, smoothing and anti-dandruff effects were popular in 2011,” Jaimie Mecca, R&D group leader, Redken, Clark, NJ, told Happi. “Argan oil and keratin exploded as a result of the trend in smoothing and strengthening services. The industry also saw increased use across all types of oils this past year, as consumers embrace the green trend and look to naturally-derived ingredients to provide smoothness and conditioning.”

Joico’s latest innovation, Smooth Cure shampoo and conditioner, is said to fight frizz for up to 72 hours. This sulfate- and formaldehyde-free regimen features KeraShield Complex.

“With Smooth Cure,” commented Joico International creative director Damien Carney, “there are so many options. You can diffuse the hair, dry it naturally, blow dry and even set or curl it. No matter how the client wants to wear it, her hair is smoother and better conditioned with an incredibly luxurious texture.”

Smooth Cure is ideal for all hair types, from thick and coarse, to fine and frizzy. It’s lightweight enough for the finer textures, yet effective on thicker and curlier textures. The system provides 24-hour high humidity protection and reduces frizz by 79%, according to the company.

“This is a truly healthy regime,” commented Carney, “and it’s most effective when all of the products are combined synergistically.The Leave-In Rescue Treatment is critical—it really transforms the look and the feel of the hair. And don’t underestimate the power of the shampoo and conditioner—they make the hair truly easy to style.I love the Thermal Styling Protectant—even if I’m allowing the hair to air-dry, I’ll mist strands with a few spritzes then dry, to tame the texture. The more heat I use, the more spray I’ll use—it’s lightweight so you can layer it as needed.”

Other recent smoothing launches focus on exotic ingredients. Tigi Catwalk Sleek Mystique Glossing Shampoo and Conditioner feature an infusion of lychee, Japanese honeysuckle and rice bran oil to work synergistically to help smooth, defrizz and impart a brilliant shine, according to the company. And, nothing’s sweeter than Carol’s Daughter’s ChocolÄt Smoothing Collection. A three-step, sulfate-free collection designed to physically rebuild hair structure, smoothing each strand from within, the collection features keravis, a hyperactive plant protein that physically rebuilds hair by filling in lifted cuticles. Formulated with Amenolado Cacao sourced from Ecuador and West Africa, the replenishing shampoo gently cleanses with coconut-derived cleansers. In the conditioner, cacao extract smoothes and vegetable protein rebuilds, as sunflower seed oil creates a high-shine, lightweight moisture seal for a sleek finish.

Purveyor of curl-enhancing hair care Ouidad introduced its latest novelty, Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo and Conditioner. Inspired by the bestselling Climate Control Heat and Humidity Gel and recognized by women everywhere as the final word in frizz fighting technology, this dynamic duo is sure to create a loyal corps of frizz-free curly girls, according to the company.

Both the Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo and Conditioner contain Ouidad’s exclusive Humidity Shield Complex, which, by combining a unique blend of moisturizers that encapsulate the hair shaft, acts as a protective barrier against heat, humidity and other environmental factors, said the company.

Ouidad’s Climate Control Defrizzing Shampoo has gentle cleansing agents, naturally derived from coconut and glucose, which mildly yet thoroughly cleanses the scalp of sebum, allowing the hair follicles to breathe. Climate Control Defrizzing Conditioner defies even the highest humidity, simultaneously detangling and defrizzing curls while promoting softness and shine. Blended amino acids penetrate the hair shaft and infuse strands with hydration, leaving curls smooth and manageable with superior frizz control and color protection.

“We know that a lot of women have dry hair and struggle with this issue. In fact, Dove found that one in three women has dry hair that is frustrating to manage,” said David Rubin, marketing director, hair care, Unilever, Englewood Cliffs, NJ. “We introduced the Dove Nourishing Oil Care collection to turn dry, rough and frizzy hair into soft, smooth, shiny hair.”

Suave’s latest innovation is Almond and Shea Butter hair care products.

Hair oils are on-trend right now, and Dove Nourishing Oil Care uses a blend of almond, coconut and mineral oils that penetrates hair to nourish without weighing it down, according to Rubin. Also at Unilever, Suave Professionals Almond + Shea Butter Moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioner are infused with 100% natural almond and shea butter, ingredients known for their rich emollients, to leave hair well-nourished.

Vim and Vigor

Besides smoothing wiry locks, consumers also want to increase the amount of nourishment delivered to their tresses by way of shampoo and conditioner. One way to boost hair health is with exotic natural ingredients and vitamin fortifications, as seen in a multitude of new launches in 2011.

For example, Aveeno recently debuted the Living Color Collection, which is specially formulated to retain and protect color vibrancy and add shine with each wash and style, breathing new life into hair color. Developed by a team of experts including eco-friendly celebrity stylist Patrick Melville, both the shampoo and conditioner have harnessed the natural benefits of the protein-rich lupine botanical, according to the company.

Also in mass, John Frieda’s Full Repair Collection is all about reversing the clock and protecting hair from further damage. The range includes Full Body Shampoo and Full Body Conditioner, both formulated with omega-rich inca inchi oil that repairs tresses.

“So many women who come into the salon have absolutely destroyed their hair by over-styling, over-coloring and generally overdoing it,” said Harry Josh, John Frieda international creative consultant, New York. “They traumatize their hair trying to get a certain look, but then they can’t maximize it because their hair is so fried. Full Repair offers them damage control that won’t weigh their hair down, letting them style to the limit while actually reversing the damage they’ve done to date.”

Said to increase the hair’s resistance to breakage by 20 times, while healing, protecting and preventing further damage, Living Proof rolled out Restore, designed to address the causes of dryness and damage, offering immediate and long-term benefits without oils and silicones, according to Jon Flint, CEO and co-founder of Living Proof, Cambridge, MA. The collection is billed as the first weightless solution that reduces the porosity of dry or damaged hair to make it look, feel and behave like virgin hair.

The weightless shampoo, conditioner and mask treatment are developed with PolyfluoroEster, which creates a protective layer and reduces porosity by 100%, according to the company. The Restore formulation also contains creatine, an amino-acid derivative, which contributes to smoothing; hydrolyzed wheat protein and nourishing conditioning agents to strengthen and protect; and tucuma seed butter, containing essential fatty acids, to enhance softness and shine.

Meanwhile, at the salon, Matrix is making magic happen with Total Results, consisting of five complete hair care ranges—Moisture, Color Care, Sleek, Amplify and Curl—said to offer “miracles” in solving quandaries such as dry and lifeless hair, dull faded color, unruly and frizzy hair, fine and limp and frizzy uncontrollable curls.

The hair experts at Davines are thinking big this season with Volu, a line of synergistic products—shampoo, conditioner and leave-in spray—that impart shine, hydration and volume with a unique blend of natural ingredients for healthy volume that lasts throughout the day, according to the company. Backed by amino-acid-rich hop extract, the revitalizing blend in the Volume Enhancing Softening Shampoo lifts residue from hair and scalp leaving hair noticeably softer, shiner and fuller all day long; while the Volume Enhancing Softening Conditioner penetrates hair with a nourishing blend of softening jojoba oil and hazelnut extract, known to revitalize the metabolic functions of scalp and hair. And natural from the inside out, Volu is housed in low-impact, food-grade transparent plastic.


Balanced Beauty, Inside and Out

Speaking of beauty from the inside out, skin care pioneer Peter Thomas Roth is expanding his scope with the Mega-Rich Hair & Body Collection—a “balanced approach” to hair and skin health, according to the company. Infused with Biotin B-7 Complex, pro vitamin B5 and vitamins C and E, hair is said to become more manageable, shiny, nourished, healthier looking and more resistant to daily damage with the Mega-Rich Shampoo and Conditioner. Formulated with gentle cleansing agents and a precise cocktail of weightless moisturizers, hair is left healthy, clean, soft and nourished, according to the company.

Multi-Tasking SKUs

From combo shampoo/conditioners to “all-in-one” treatments, marketers are offering value with a host of new products that feature more than one function. Consider Chaz Dean, creator of the popular Wen cleansing conditioners sold on QVC. He’s back this season with two limited edition scents at Wen. First was Fall Ginger Pumpkin, which was available from September through November; and Winter Vanilla Mint, which is available through February. The non-lathering formula contains natural astringents and a blend of botanical ingredients, according to the company.

Chaz Dean’s Wen cleansing conditioner is available in a limited edition Winter Vanilla Mint variant.

Conceived by celebrity hairstylist Dean as the ideal one-stop beauty solution and superior alternative to shampoos, the Cleansing Conditioners are said to effectively replace shampoos, conditioners, leave-in treatments and styling products in one product. Aloe vera leaf juice, chamomile extract and sunflower seed oil are just a few key ingredients in the formulation.

“The trend is to create high quality, multipurpose products that do what they say they will without filling them full of harmful chemicals,” Dean told Happi. “Customers today don’t want six different bottles in their shower—they want to find the one product they know they can depend on and feel good about using.”

In a similar concept, salon brand Cibu recently debuted Washabi, a sulfate-free 3 in 1 Conditioning Shampoo + Body Wash product. Featuring hydrolyzed soy to condition, wasabi root to kill bacteria and stimulate the scalp as well as wild mint, eucalyptus and menthol to cool and refresh the scalp, this unisex product targets the entire marketplace.

Rusk is also thinking inside the box with its new W8less Multi 12-in-1 Miracle Treatment.This lightweight leave-in treatment for all hair types is said to offer 12 benefits, including those of both shampoos and conditioners.

Meanwhile, Göt2b is targeting hair care consumers on the go with its Fat-tastic collection, led by Fat-tastic Dry Shampoo. This skip-a-day style saver instantly refreshes hair, so that “no shampoo” thing can be your clean little secret. The collagen-infused formula mists on and absorbs oil to completely revive and re-volumize for that freshly-washed va-va-voom.

On HSN, David Evangelista rolled out Pouf as a solution to wintertime hat head. Just a sprinkle and your hairstyle will be revived in seconds, according to the company. It is formulated with fine, tiny micro particles of aloe, kaolin tapioca starch and potato starch and is available exclusively on the network. Naturals marketer Lush is also taking a stab at this type of product with No Drought, a dry shampoo powder scented with lemon, grapefruit and lime.

And finally, Philip Kingsley tapped the burgeoning baby care market with PK Baby, an “ultra mild” shampoo and body wash for daily use. Created specifically for infants and children, its easy rinse formula contains chamomile extract to soothe the scalp and amaranth protein to gently moisturize both the skin and hair. It also has a unique silky texture designed to remain on the hair during use, with less likelihood of running into eyes, according to the company.

A Stylish Forecast

Blossoming trends in shampoos and conditioners include more of the same—advanced ingredients that deliver on a product’s claims as well as fortifying tresses for a beautiful look.

“The future of shampoos and conditioners is going to be influenced by changing needs and expectations, including more multi-textural hair types and a desire for longer-lasting hair styles,” said Condé of Pantene R&D. “As women live longer, they are looking for products that help them look as young as they feel. Women have many choices, so they are going to demand even higher performance from products without trade-offs. They are going to look for products that not only cover up the damage that their hair has today, but they will also look for products that initially prevent damage.”

Lee of Euromonitor agreed. She told Happi, “With the aging of the US population, more hair care products that claim hair strengthening and/or hair loss prevention are expected.”

It Factor hair care products are said to reduce blow-dry time by up to 50%.

Products and brands that can offer consumers innovation, authenticity and experience will dominate the new year, noted Mecca of Redken.

“It’s not enough for products to perform, they must create a truly unique experience to make an emotional connection with the user,” she said. “The shampoos and conditioners that will continue to grow will be those that can offer a niche that speaks to the need for personalization with a focus on offering a customized approach to traditional hair care regimens.”

Offering both meaningful benefits and a luxurious experience is paramount for next year, observed Stiller of It Factor.

“What used to be considered a niche benefit will continue to become a given, as consumers want to have it all,” he observed. “Society is used to instant gratification so they expect more in less time—their hair is no exception.”


Nioxin To Debut New Thickening Treatment

• Thinning hair is frequently associated with a decrease in the number of hair fibers on the head, but hair diameter also plays a significant role in hair thinning. Hair diameter can decrease as one ages and even a small loss in diameter can have a significant visual effect.

Next month, P&G salon brand Nioxin will introduce DiaMax with HTX, a new leave-in, thickening treatment that has been scientifically designed and tested to increase the thickness of each hair strand for beautiful, thick-looking hair, according to the company.

“As a leader in thinning hair for more than 22 years, Nioxin has a rich history of offering products that effectively address multiple aspects of hair thinning and arming stylists with the tools to advise their clients,” said Reuben Carranza, CEO, P&G Salon Professional North America. “DiaMax is our answer for stylists and consumers who are looking for instant thickening results they can see.”

DiaMax contains a new technology, HTX, developed by P&G Beauty Scientists combining “a skin care inspired approach for hair” with advanced research findings. HTX is a combination of caffeine, panthenol, niacinamide and dimethicone.

More info: www.nioxin.com

A New Look for Pert Plus

• A formerly famous brand is ready for its comeback. Pert Plus shampoo, introduced in 1987 as the first 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner, is being relaunched as the simple all-family choice, according to the company. Pert Plus owners Idelle Labs tapped New York-based brand and innovation firm Beardwood&Co. to develop new packaging to communicate the brand’s promise and create instinctive appeal at the point of purchase.

The new packaging captures the brand’s effortless expediency and showcases the family-friendly, hassle-free nature of using 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner that delivers great results.

“Following extensive consumer research, each component of the redesign was carefully conceived to reflect why Pert Plus is a must-buy for busy families seeking great hair without a lot of time and effort,” said Ryan Lynch, managing partner, Beardwood&Co.

Central to the package revamp is a bold and modern logo to convey the brand’s benefit of “refreshingly simple.” Beardwood&Co. achieved this by vertically placing the Pert Plus name so it pops more on the shelf to capture shoppers’ attention among the crowd of shampoo products. The new design is deliberately unisex in appeal.

Bright colors—blue, teal, orange, purple and light green—express the confidence and upbeat attitude of “a great hair day.”Each color represents one of the five varied Pert Plus formulas/hair types. A prominent horizontal silver bar calls out the 2-in-1 proposition in an eye-catching and premium way, according to the company.

“Beardwood&Co.’s packaging nailed the simplicity positioning and our retailers and customers are loving the new look,” said Rick Cutler, director of marketing, Idelle Labs.

More info: www.pertplus.com

P&G Spokesman Celebrated by Madame Tussauds with Coiffed Likeness

• For the 2011 NFL season, Pittsburg Steeler All-Pro safety Troy Polamalu and his iconic hair are taking on a life of their own by becoming immortalized in wax. A life-sized wax figure of the Head & Shoulders spokesperson called “Legendaryous Troy,” a generously coiffed likeness crafted by the artists of Madame Tussauds, was recently unveiled in New York City. It was noted that Legendaryous Troy sports almost double the amount of hair than any other wax figure ever created to replicate Polamalu’s full and thick mane. Further adding to the excitement, Head & Shoulders has revealed that the figure will be visiting football fans during several tour stops in early 2012.

Polamalu, who has been growing his hair for nearly a decade to honor his Samoan roots, is marking his third year as a spokesperson for Head & Shoulders. Legendaryous Troy will bring the sponsorship to a new level of interactivity for fans, and fans will have the opportunity to view the figure up close as it crisscrosses the nation. Throughout the campaign, fans can suggest places he might enjoy checking out, track his travels, read his distinctive point of view via social media and register for a chance to win a trip to Super Bowl XLVI in the Legendary 7 Contest.

“We are proud to kick off the third year of partnership with Troy Polamalu in the most Legendaryous way—celebrating his iconic mane as it becomes immortalized by Madame Tussauds,” said April Anslinger, brand manager of Head & Shoulders at Procter & Gamble. “With each passing year, the partnership with Troy Polamalu and the National Football League has become bolder and more humorous but most importantly, it has helped build a stronger connection with our male target and de-stigmatize that Head & Shoulders is just for dandruff.”

More info: www.headandshoulders.com

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