Mighty Makeup

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | August 1, 2012

This season's color cosmetics are rife with rich hues, a plush feel and skin-loving benefits.

If the story last year was that innovation is imperative in a successful color cosmetics product, then this year, marketers are going to have to put the pedal to the metal. An eye-catching hue is sometimes not enough to sell a SKU; consumers want form and function too.

Makeup fused with skin care is one of the biggest trends for the season, according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm. In fact, more than 8 in 10 (86%) women say that they use makeup with skin-caring benefits. In addition, 61% of the women surveyed said they use makeup products with benefits that are similar to the ones contained in their skin care products.

Regardless of age, moisturizing and SPF protection are the two most sought after benefits in all makeup products, according to NPD.

“It can be said that makeup products with skin care benefits create a perception of ‘more bang for the buck,’ and consumers may believe they are getting more value. As such, it could be inferred that women perceive additional value from layering,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Like other categories within beauty, makeup is characterized by a constant influx of the ‘new.’ Manufacturers and marketers are focused on wooing consumers with new and better products targeting women’s needs.”

And let’s not forget one of the biggest beauty trends of the year, innovative nail color, is still going strong in 2012. According to global consulting and research firm Kline & Company, makeup sales comfortably exceeded the industry average growth rate, boosted by an astonishing near 30% growth of the nail polishes subcategory in 2011. The gain was caused, in part, by the emergence of new trends, including bold colors and special effects that attracted women of all demographics. The category was augmented by innovation in application techniques, which could be seen in products such as Sally Hansen Salon Effects and Nail Inc.’s Magnetic Polish.

According to SymphonyIRI Group, colorful nails are still sizzling hot, as nail polish sales leaped a whopping 23% to $1 billion in food, drug and mass-market outlets (excluding Walmart) for the 52 weeks ended June 10, 2012. Facial color cosmetics are still in demand, reported the Chicago-based market research firm, as sales increased 5% to $1.07 billion. Sales of foundation SKUs are still going strong with a 4% rise to $552 million in sales. Eye makeup sales rose 3% to $1.2 billion, with mascara sales accounting for $600 million of the total. Lipcolor sales were flat at $530 million, with lipstick taking the majority of sales at $335 million.

Color cosmetics from Maybelline and Sally Hansen made the top 10 in SymphonyIRI’s list of 2011 New Product Pacesetters (non foods)—Maybelline Volum’ Express Falsies mascara at $46.5 million, Sally Hansen Salon Effects nail color at $41.8 million and Maybelline Fit Me foundation at $36.2 million.

“The Pacesetters of today, having beaten the new product odds regardless of a difficult and complex environment, are truly remarkable,” said Larry Levin, executive vice president, consumer insights, SymphonyIRI. “It all begins with really listening and responding to consumers. Those manufacturers that are taking the time to gain an intimate knowledge of the needs and wants of their consumers are cracking the code on true innovation.”

Mass Appeal
Today’s cosmetic consumers are looking for on-trend colors that are runway inspired as well as sported by their favorite actress, model or musician. According to Mary Kay makeup artist Virginia Linzee, New York, “Due to so much visual access to what the elite are wearing in the fashion and celebrity worlds, shoppers are looking for ways to easily replicate the chicest looks to help them feel a part of that ‘untouchable’ world. Being on-trend helps the everyday shopper feel more sophisticated and special through a trickle-down effect. Beauty inspiration is pulled from everything from past icons to current street trends. Celebrities look to the runways to inspire their red carpet looks and then many shoppers look to celebrities to inspire their own looks.”

Linzee continued, “If a fashion designer sees a gorgeous-colored cheek in a Renoir painting or a beautiful lip color that their favorite singer is wearing, they’ll pull these aspects into the makeup for their shows. If a celebrity sees a gorgeous pink lip or cat eye on the runway, they might mimic an aspect of that look. If then a woman picks up a magazine and checks out the latest red carpet looks and falls in love with so-and-so’s eye makeup and buys the products to replicate that look, she can feel like a celebrity, too!”

Sonia Kashuk, creator of Sonia Kashuk Beauty, sold exclusively at Target, told Happi that for Fall 2012, mighty makeup is back in style.

“It’s all about a powerful, defined face,” she said. “My favorite look for this season is a strong mouth, made wearable with rich reds and deep bordeauxs …jewel tones are also in, especially on the eye, whether it’s a soft sweep of color or metallic smoky eye. The last big trend we’ll see for fall is a play on textures and finishes for the skin.”

Petra Strand, creator, Pixi Beauty (also big at Target), Los Angeles, sees the reverse—that trends are fleeting but cornerstone SKUs stand the test of time.

“Today’s shopper is incredibly knowledgeable and makeup savvy,” she told Happi. “She is willing to somewhat overlook trends to rather find the things that really works wonders for her. She is ready to experiment but once she finds what products really work on her, she sticks with it!”

Besides having staying power in a woman’s makeup arsenal, products have to treat the skin right—an issue more in the forefront for 2012.

According to Shawn Towne, global educator, Jane Iredale, Bernardsville, NJ, “Consumers are looking for makeup that has simplicity, performance, and health benefits. They want to feel empowered through buying products that they know they will be able to apply easily and get the results they desire. Very often women buy makeup expecting it to be easy to apply and end up frustrated when it turns out to require much more skill. As well, some products often don’t give the coverage or intensity that they advertise or they end up creating the wrong color, finish or texture.”

Towne continued, “Most importantly, women want to feel good about putting these products on their skin … makeup has to be dynamic and user friendly.”

Face Time
Nude makeup has never been more now—and the largest canvas to color is the face. According to Napoleon Perdis, founder and CEO, Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics, Hollywood, CA, “Not only is a neutral palette a very wearable, safe direction for the color shy, it’s so on trend.”

The hero of his new Nude Bar range is Off Duty Tinted Moisturizer, a hydrating tint that’s a matrix of three different flesh-toned hues and skin-nourishing encapsulated glacier water, gingko biloba, chamomile and green tea extracts to help create a natural glow, Perdis told Happi.

“It’s the lightest base in my line and is perfect for that no-makeup look and for foundation phobes,” he explained. “As it’s laced with nourishing ingredients, it also makes a great tinted primer to improve skin tone, finesse your foundation finish and help it last longer.”

Perdis is also set to launch a true “skinnovation,” The One Concealer. It’s a skin corrector that camouflages imperfections with a medium-coverage cream concealer that syncs with just about every skin tone.

“The peach hue is incredibly flattering to all skin types. I’ve never seen anything like it,” he told Happi. “Foundation is always one of the most interesting categories to me; textures and finishes just get more and more sophisticated and I think we’ll see more of the skin tone-adaptive technology that we’ve worked with for The One Concealer coming into market. It’s a particularly interesting trend that may no longer see the need for a comprehensive shade portfolio of foundations and concealers.”

According to Towne at Jane Iredale, as Autumn draws near, flawless matte complexions are becoming increasingly popular. His company is rolling out a Glow Time BB Cream. Available in six colors, it gives strong coverage and a velvet finish, he said. The brand is also launching Smooth Affair Facial Primer & Brightener, a breakthrough primer with anti-aging benefits to boot.

“Smooth Affair is more than just a canvas for makeup—it improves the health of any skin type and tone—and may just make wearing foundation obsolete,” Towne told Happi. “This new primer is packed with delicious, healing natural botanicals like grapefruit extract, apple, red algae and honeysuckle that are proven to exfoliate, refine and rejuvenate the skin. Designed as a true extension of skin care, its translucent pink formula can be worn under mineral makeup or on its own for a sheer glow, and will improve the health of skin with each use.”

L’Oréal Visible Lift Repair Absolute Foundation
L’Oréal is also leading the way for Fall 2012 with a variety of face makeup novelties. L’Oréal Paris True Match Lumi Healthy Luminous Foundation is the newest addition to L’Oréal Paris’ award-winning True Match portfolio. According to the company, this powerful liquid foundation improves the condition of skin even after makeup has been removed. With a mineral-infused formula, True Match Lumi Foundation delivers lightweight, buildable coverage with a naturally luminous finish. Its creamy, silky texture melts into skin to instantly minimize imperfections.

Another big launch at the company is L’Oréal Paris Visible Lift Repair Absolute Foundation, which is said to go beyond coverage by providing intense nourishing moisture and maximum broad-spectrum SPF protection, treating skin to a dose of rehydration and resilience, according to the company. The liqui-crème compact form melts upon contact with skin, transforming into a true liquid makeup.Infused with powerful skin care actives (pro-retinol, pro-xylane, pro-lastyl, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C), the formula is clinically proven to reduce the signs of aging. The brand also recently debuted a BB cream infused with skin care ingredients such as panthenol, vitamin E and glycerin for 24-hour moisturization.

Meanwhile, Smashbox Cosmetics’s breakthrough new primer formulation, Photo Finish More Than Primer Dark Spot Correcting, is said to banish dark spots while creating a smooth, perfect canvas for makeup application. It features a potent vitamin C antioxidant complex that not only instantly brightens skin tone and boosts collagen production to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, it helps prevent discoloration over time as well. A proprietary blend of skin-smoothing cucumber and apple fruit extract works to reduce inflammation, a cause of hyperpigmentation, while vitamin F promotes the regeneration of new, healthy skin, according to the company.

The latest addition to Stila’s best-selling Stay All Day franchise, Stila Stay All Day Foundation & Concealer, is said to provide a matte, flawless finish without feeling heavy on the skin. Available in 16 shades to suit every skin tone, the oil-free formula glides on effortlessly to immediately minimize imperfections with buildable, breathable coverage. A creamy concealer, infused with vitamins A, C and E, is included inside the foundation’s cap so your complexion-perfecting products are never far apart. Also included are a mini mirror for on-the-go touch-ups and a professionally inspired spatula and brush for expert application.

Category leader bareMinerals is also targeting busy professionals with Ready SPF 20 Foundation. This hydrating foundation combines a proprietary SeaNutritive Mineral Complex composed of highly concentrated, mineral-rich algae and seaweed with antioxidants and rose hip seed oil, a cold-pressed oil that contains vitamin A to help accelerate cell turnover for firmer-looking skin and vitamins C and E for a healthy-looking complexion. A unique time-released hydration system enables this formula to help moisturize and replenish skin throughout the day, according to the company. A moisturizing complex of mineral-encapsulated glycerin and humic acid locks in existing moisture and breaks down upon application and over time to continuously condition and soften skin.

Victoria’s Secret VS-Pro cosmetics collection
Victoria’s Secret Beauty expands its color cosmetics offerings with VS Pro, a line of products inspired by the models that walk the lingerie brand’s famous fashion shows. Products range from a Flawless FX Translucent Finishing Powder, which imparts a luminious glow, to a Radiant FX Face Illuminator, which features a sheer, liquid-pearl formula that blends effortlessly to diffuse the look of imperfections, according to the company.

Long-wearing combined with anti-aging qualities can also be applied to blush—as seen at IT Cosmetics, a brand big on QVC. Its new Vitality Cheek Flush Anti-Aging Powder Blush Stain is a cheek stain infused into a powder. Hydra-Luxe technology—including ingredients such as plum oil, cherry oil, hyaluronic acid, pomegranate, seaweed extract, grapeseed, aloe and jojoba—fuels the formulation.
This month, Mirabella Beauty also bulked up its offerings with the new Bronzed mineral-based bronzing powder with prismatch shimmer and Brillant mineral-based highlighter with prismatch shimmer.

Sealed with a Kiss
For Fall 2012, shoppers look to pair natural colors for the face with a single, vibrant pop of color on the lips, according to Chad Hayduk, co-founder and creative director, Three Custom Color Specialists, New York.

“There is a transparency to colors on the face—think of gel filters in film and photography. The pop of color tends to be from the unexpected colors in harvest vegetables like citron, orange-reds and aubergine,” he said.

The latest color craze from MAC is Cremesheen Glass for lips
For example, dazzling lipcolor is big at Estée Lauder this season in the new Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick. True Vision Technology envelops lips with decadent color and a sheer, lustrous shine, while Amplified Dimensional Pearl Technology is a unique diamond-like pearl cluster consisting of up to eight different shaped and colored pearls, according to the company. These pearls fuse together to reflect a multi-hued, multi-faceted spectrum of color for an amplified, sparkling finish on lips, according to the company. Each shade contains silver and gold sparkle pearls that neutralize lips, making them look beautiful on all skin tones for a faceted, sequined shine that sparkles. Additionally, a new moisturizing texture saturates lips with sheer, creamy emollients that smooth and condition lips for hours—increasing lip moisturization by 23% in four weeks, according to the company. A natural polymer complex creates a pliable, glossy film network, providing lips with a sophisticated, dimensional shine that lasts for hours. A high-performance wax complex forms a matrix that entraps emollients and pigments in place on lips for lasting coverage and stay-true color.

Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Velvet Lipstick in Black Cassis and Violet Crush are plush shades of deep wine and violet in a matte finish from the Violet Underground range. This non-drying, ultra creamy lipstick creates a bold statement in highly pigmented shades that add a pop of color and drama. Lips can have a crystal dimension with the Pure Color Gloss in Chaotic Currant and Rebellious Violet. Deep plum wine and dazzling violet add an intense and vibrant burst of color with layers of crystal reflections that give an extraordinary impact.

Shiseido Lacquer Rouge
“We created a dramatic fashion look with a touch of fantasy. Inspired by glam rock, women can play dress up with color and become a character that encompasses mystery, opulence, sex and confidence. It can transform her world,” said Tom Pecheux, creative makeup director at Estée Lauder.

Touted as a shimmering twist on an instant classic, new MAC Cremesheen Lipstick and Cremesheen Glass get infused with crushed pearl in 15 new Asian-inspired shades for the season. Modern pinks, nudes and corals pop and glow against all skin tones with a light-reflecting finish that leaves lips luminously and decidedly lacquered. With foolproof coverage, gleaming shine and creamy gloss, this smooth and seductive update to Cremesheen “is Double Happiness for your lips,” said the company.

Similar in Asian inspiration and making a debut at Fall 2012 Fashion Week, Shiseido Lacquer Rouge is a rich liquid lip color that leaves lips beautifully polished in just one coat, according to the company.

Inspired by Japanese lacquer artistry, a 9,000-year-old technique that delivers exceptional lustrous shine and an almost wet-looking finish to a wide variety of pieces called “lacquerware,” the line was created by artistic director Dick Page.

“The collection is about a speedy glamour,” he said. “The simplicity of a lipgloss married to the intensity of a lipstick, a deep pigment and rich color payoff, and long-lasting shine and gloss.”

All About Eyes
Complete with skin care benefits, the new multitasking eye shadows enhance every woman’s look, according to Elizabeth Arden. The brand that first introduced eye makeup to the women of America takes innovation to the next level with a new line of Beautiful Color Eye Shadow Singles and Duos.

Violet Underground from Estee Lauder
“As women age, eyeshadow can exaggerate the crepe-like texture of the eye lids. Our Advanced Pigment Technology targets color rich pigments at their core so that the new eye shadows create a fine layer on top of the lid instead of falling into lines and creases,” explained Arthur Pellegrino, vice president, global research and development at Elizabeth Arden, New York. “Retinyl linoleate and vitamins C and E also help to smooth the appearance of aging signs. The result is a powerful combination of long-lasting color with skin care benefits that lift and smooth the eyelids.”

New eyeshadow from Elizabeth Arden
Avon chose to expand its eyeliner category by bulking up its Glimmersticks collection with a new variety in a reflective, pearl chrome finish. According to the company, the long-wear waterproof formula glides on effortlessly to deliver iridescent, richly pigmented color that wears up to 12 hours. The retractable pencil is self-sharpening and precisely defines eyes without tugging the delicate skin around the eye area. Infused with an alluring pearl chrome finish that creates a beautiful color-changing effect in different lighting, Glimmersticks Chromes Eye Liners glitter and shimmer to deliver show-stopping, bright and beautiful eyes.

“Bright shades are a must-have look in the beauty world right now, and you can have a lot of fun playing up your eyes using them,” said Jillian Dempsey, global creative color director, Avon, New York. “Avon’s Glimmersticks Chromes Eye Liners offer a pop of beautiful, shimmering color that glides on easily and stays put all day, so you don’t have to worry about smearing or smudging.”

Avon Glimmersticks are now available in a chrome finish
Mascara is also a key point of innovation in color cosmetics—as seen at Coty’s Rimmel London. This season, it is enlarging its winning mascara portfolio with ScandalEyes. From the supersized brush to the collagen- and keratin-boosted formula, everything about ScandalEyes is designed to raise eyebrows, according to the company. Variations include Volume Flash, made with a supersized blend featuring triple the collagen and keratin and a flexible new MaxDensity brush that’s longer, wider, denser and 50% larger than Rimmel’s biggest brush; Waterproof, safe for contact lens wearers and those with sensitive eyes; Lycra Flex, featuring a first-to-market volumizing formula developed with weightless lycra technology to make lashes appear voluptuously thick, yet soft and flexible; and Curve Alert, a supersized mascara featuring “3X the collagen and keratin to condition every lash, providing 12X the volume and 70% more lift,” according to the company.

Facing the Future
So, if this year’s developments are so beguiling, what’s ahead for color cosmetics in 2013 and beyond? More of the same, as it looks like today’s trends are tomorrow’s mainstays, contend industry insiders. Hayduk of Three Custom Color noted that hues are evolving along with trends in social media.

“Brighter tones from cyberspace are dominant,” he told Happi. “Primary and secondary colors are seen in their full saturation.These are paired with very stark whites and blacks, forcing a sensory contrast.”
“As we move toward the future, color cosmetics will continue to partner closely with skin care, focusing more on skin benefits than just a temporary superficial fix, said Kashuk. “Visually, the trend is heading towards color softening. You will still see accents and hits of brightness, but in general, color is toning down a bit.”

Strand of Pixi agreed. “So many exciting things are happening in makeup and I think we are going to continue to see makeup/skin care merge, as well as getting salon effects at home without the use for certain equipment,” she said. “It is about staying on top of technology and always striving for nothing but the best as well as having your own vision.”
Taking the Extra Step

Marketers are raising the bar on innovative formulations and packaging for Fall 2012 color cosmetics.
Here’s a look at some standout SKUs of the season.

• Tarte’s new Glamazon lipstick collection ($26) features a clay infusion for longwearing capabilities along with exotic butters like mango and avocado to add cushion to the wear.

The case is made from sustainable bamboo. Glamazon is available in eight shades and is exclusive to Sephora.

• Korres’ new Volcanic Minerals Volumizing Mascara ($20) is a long-wear product formulated with volcanic minerals providing rich pigmentation for “a dark, sooty look,” according to the company. A cotton extract composed of seven rare polymers strengthens lashes while a blend of vegetal waxes, thyme extract, quackgrass and marine algae extracts conditions.

• The “matchy-matchy” lip and nail trend is here to stay, according to Butter London. Inspired by the high-impact lips seen on the catwalks this season, the Lippy A/W ‘12 collection ($17) includes bold pops of color, chic nudes and a vampy hue. These lipglosses also match complementary nail colors ($14).

• Skintangible ($32) from VMV Hypoallergenics is billed as a “non-makeup makeup.”

This tinted foundation evens out skin tone and refining the complexion with antioxidants and mineral SPF 30 sunscreens. Monolaurin plus other monoglycerides are coconut-derived and soothe the skin.

• A new concept in nail care, independent marketer Duality Cosmetics has conjured up Nail Pak ($20), a patented 3-in-1 nail care system designed to manicure nails in three simple steps—Remove, File and Polish (RFP). The top half contains a polish or treatment lacquer, the bottom half houses 40 user-friendly, pre-soaked polish remover pads—which can easily be replaced with a refill Pak when needed—and a mini removable nail file is strategically placed in between.

• Lining has never been easier with NYX’s The Curve liner ($15). The precision tool is held like a pencil for full control to create an eye-enhancing perfect, smudge-proof, long lasting line, according to the company. It is available in Jet Black.

• For lashes and brows that lost their wow, Mary Kay is touting its new Lash & Brow Building Serum ($38). Powered by Mary Kay’s Lash Response Complex that contains a blend of amino acids, a peptide and red clover extract, application of this product takes seconds and is said to work in 30 days.

• Renowned around the globe for its replenishing benefits, coconut water is the drink of choice for those in the know. Utilizing breakthrough technology, Joey New York taps the benefits of green coconut water with Correct-A-Line For Face and Eye ($36). This two-in-one product is said to instantly smoothe skin and erases imperfections, leaving the complexion camera-ready. Ideal as an all-over filler or primer for makeup, the gel serum mattifies skin while hydrating.

• Three’s a charm at Too Faced. Its Three-Way Lash Lining Tool ($21) fills in spaces between lashes, giving the natural impression of thicker, more luscious lashes, according to the company. It’s innovative triple tip design also makes it easier for blacker tight-lining and traditional lash-lining.
Pantone Reveals Fashion Color Report For Fall 2012

• What hues are hot for next season? Find out in Pantone’s annual Fashion Color Report.

“By playing to consumers’ practical side with versatile neutrals, and boosting their confidence with bold, spirited hues, this skillfully balanced palette has something for everyone,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute.

Here are the colors made the cut:

Women’s Fall 2012 Fashion:
PANTONE 19-4056 Olympian Blue PANTONE 17-1463 Tangerine Tango
PANTONE 18-5338 Ultramarine Green PANTONE 17-4014Titanium
PANTONE 15-1142Honey Gold PANTONE 18-2133Pink Flambé
PANTONE 16-3817Rhapsody PANTONE 14-1506Rose Smoke
PANTONE 19-1012French Roast PANTONE 14-0445Bright Chartreuse

More info: www.pantone.com/fall2012

Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about the materials listed, contact the supplier directly.

BASF Corp.
Florham Park, NJ
Email: laura.partynski@basf.com
Cloisonne Vivid Red
INCI: Mica (and) iron oxide
(and) titanium dioxide (and) and silica
Suggested use levels:0.2-6%
Applications: Eyeshadow, facial makeup, lipgloss, lipstick, nail polish
Comments: New shade; naturally derived, non-fading red. No carmine.
Chione M SVA
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) lauroyl lysine
Suggested use levels: 1-12%
Applications: Eyeshadow, facial makeup, foundation, lipstick, skin care
Comments: Synthetic mica treated with lauroyl lysine; excellent binder and feel modifier for cosmetic powders and lipsticks. Its hydrophobicity and amino acid content create a uniquely soft, velvety feel on the skin.
Flamenco Summer Gold
INCI:Mica (and) titanium dioxide
Suggested use levels:0.3-5%
Applications: Eyeshadow, facial makeup, lipgloss, lipstick, nail polish
Comments: Sparkly new shade of gold pigment based on mica.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Website: www.centerchem.com
Hybridur 875
INCI: Polyurethane-2 and polymethyl methacrylate
Suggested use levels: 2-5% by active
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: Hybridur 875 Polymer is a urethane-acrylic interpenetrating network polymer, which can deliver a flexible, natural-looking film that is long-lasting and provides excellent water and rub-off resistance. Its unique film also provides excellent adhesion characteristics to the skin. Hybridur 875 polymer delivers a durable and long-lasting film that can provide effective water resistance for formulations. Good skin adhesion is particularly important in color cosmetics, where part of a polymer’s jobs is to hold pigments in place effectively. Hybridur 875 polymer is solvents-free and preservative-free, providing a solution that addresses consumers’ concerns about the safety of their products.
Deposilk Q1 Polymer
INCI: Polyquaternium-101
Suggested use levels: 1-3% by active
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: With Deposilk Q1 Polymer, formulators can deliver a silky-smooth barrier that provides robust water and rub-off resistance to formulations. Rather than a stiff film, the material possesses a barrier that rests naturally onto the contours of the skin, and its cationic property makes this barrier substantive to skin. Deposilk Q1 polymer’s ability to deposit a wide range of ingredients, including pigments and actives, along with its wide compatibility, makes the material a compelling choice for color cosmetics.
Penstia Powder
INCI: Adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 3% by active
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: Penstia Powder is a new and novel polymer that imparts a silky, creamy feel to the finished product. It is a highly branched and terminated polyol crosslinked with a functional silicone, which provides elasticity and flexibility. The particles of Penstia Powder are porous spheres that allow for high oil loading, which is useful for active entrapment, stabilization and sebum absorption. These particles “roll” rather than “drag,” adding exceptional slip to any formulation. The chemical composition of Penstia Powder gives it dry binding properties and also allows it to be used in both water and oil phases, resulting in improved formula stability and reduced tackiness.

Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.crodausa.com
Syncrowax ORM
INCI: Sorbitol/sebacic acid copolymer behenate
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Lipsticks, mascaras and eyeshadows
Comments: Syncrowax ORM is a naturally derived polyester formed from sorbitol, sebacic acid and behenic acid. It provides significant SPF boosting and structures waxes and oils. EcoCert approved.
Syncrowax OSW
INCI: Tribehenin (and) sorbitol/sebacic acid copolymer behenate
Suggested use levels: 5-15%
Applications: Lipsticks, mascaras and eyeshadows
Comments: Syncrowax OSW is an excellent choice for replacing Montan-wax derived structurants in formulations since it is compatible in a wide range of silicones, oils and waxes. It provides a gel network structure in oils and can increase the SPF of organic sunscreens.

The DeWolf Companies
(DeWolf Chemical, Glenn Corporation)

Warwick, RI
Tel: 800-521-0065
Email: orders@dewolfchem.com
Sumicos Polar Mist
INCI: Synthetic fluorophlogopite (and) titanium dioxide
Suggested use levels: 01.-10%
Applications: Lipsticks, lipgloss, eyeshadows, shimmery body color lotions
Comments: Polar Mist is just one from the series of Sumicos Pristine pearlescent pigments. These pigments utilize the benefits of synthetic fluorophlogopite, or synthetic mica, to deliver especially pure white, iridescent, and metallic pigments, from satiny to sparkly effects. The advantages are cleaner tone and enhanced color purity alone with lower heavy metal levels.
kahlwax 6720
INCI: Shorea robusta resin (and) helianthus annuus seed oil
Suggested use levels:5-50%
Applications: Lipsticks, lipgloss, mascara
Comments: Unique purified blend of a 100% natural resin, Shorea Robusta Resin, in edible sunflower oil which is emi-liquid to gel-like and exhibits high oxidative stability. Use as an additive to improve lasting & film-forming in lipsticks and mascaras.Also recommended as a potential polydecene /polyisobutylene replacement in lip gloss.
biofunctional annatto powder extract
INCI:Annatto (and) maltodextrin
Suggested use levels:0.3-1%
Applications: Lipsticks, lipgloss, lip stains, blush
Comments: A typical fruit from the Amazonian Rainforest, its brazilian name Urucum comes from the word uruku which means “red” in the indigenous language Tupi.Considered a natural colorant as the seeds of this plant contain natural pigments bixin and norbixin.Standardized bixin concentration is2.500mg/100g.

EMD Chemicals/Rona
Philadelphia, PA
Tel: 888-367-3275
Email: rona@merckgroup.com
Website: www.emd4cosmetics.com
Colorona Imperial Citrine
INCI: Mica (and) bismuth oxychloride (and) iron oxides
Suggested use levels: 0.5% (nail polishes)-50% (powders)
Applications: Color cosmetics/personal care
Comments: This new cosmetic pigment can provide enormous versatility to your formulations with its intense yellow matte color. A balance of transparency and color offers both coverage and luminosity, while boasting an ultra silky texture and a creamy feel.
Timiron SynBeam Colors
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide
Suggested use levels: 0.05% (emulsions, bath gels)-40% (powders)
Applications: Color cosmetics/personal care
Comments: These five outstanding cosmetic pigments in the Timiron range are based on fluorphlogopite, a synthetic mica. Their composition exhibits a silky white powder with interference effects in gold, copper, red, blue and violet, respectively. The synthetic substrate enables clear and brilliant masstone colors.
Colorona SynRussian Gold
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxide (and) tin oxide
Suggested use levels: 0.05%-40%
Applications: Color cosmetics/personal care
Comments: Tremendous (clean, bright golden) effects can be achieved, even with low concentrations in a wide range of color cosmetics and non-decorative products.

Gelest, Inc.
Morrisville, PA
Tel: 215-547-1015
Email: ddick@gelest.com
Website: www.gelest.com
Gelest Skin Friendly Pigments
INCI: (proposed) acetyl hydroxyprolyltriethoxysilane
Suggested use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care products
Comments: This line of pigments is treated with a hydrophilic amino acid that improves affinity for the skin, increases moisture binding, feels smooth on the skin, and improves color development.
SiBrid EDEB-211 Polyethylene Dimethicone
INCI: Bis-(C24-30 alkyl/butyl)dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care products, sun care products
Comments: Block polymers of ethylene and polydimethylsiloxane are solid low-melt-point materials. They offer the smoothness of paraffins without waxy feel. When added to many organic and hydrocarbon systems, they reduce tack and increase slip. At higher levels they can form barriers to moisture transmission.
Vertasil VAN-07 omega-Anisyldimethicone
INCI: Bis(Methoxyphenylpropyl/butyl)dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care applications
Comments: Vertasil omega-anisyldimethicone combines the high refractive index of anise with the lower surface tension of polysiloxanes to form high luster thin films compatible with a wide range of organics and silicones.

South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-757-0033
Email: info@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
INCI: Water (and) black 2 (and) butylene glycol (and) disodium lauryl phenyl ether disulfonate (and) cellulose gum (and) phenoxyethanol (and) dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-50% depending upon the formula
Applications: Recommended for use in emulsions and gels. Good for deep black mascara and eyeliners.
Comments: Black water-based paste dispersion. Easy to disperse into your formulation.
INCI: Iron oxides (C.I. 77491) (or C.I.77492) (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested use levels: 1-10% depending upon the formula
Applications: Recommended for use in emulsions, gels and hot pours.
Comments: These transparent iron oxide dispersions offer many benefits in personal care formulating: Natural finish on the skin, SPF boosting, added UVA protection. Can reduce appearance of whitening and chalkiness in sunscreen products. Provides good balance of transparency and coverage for a natural look in ethnic products. Easy to disperse into your formulation.
Kobopearl Perpetual (Series)
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) silica (and) titanium dioxide
Suggested use levels: 1-50% depending upon the formula
Applications: Recommended for use in all makeup applications.
Comments: Synthetic mica-based optically variable pearls offer rich iridescent pigments that exhibit color travel from one color to the other in the product name, for example Kobopearl Perpetual BlueViolet exhibits color travel ranging from blue to violet. Kobopearl Perpetual IO series contains iron oxides for bold color formulations.

Paterson, NJ
Tel: 973-345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Orgasol Green Touch
INCI: Nylon-11
Suggested use levels: 3-10%
Applications: For anhydrous lipsticks, cream to powder hot pour, pressed powders, lipgloss and lip balms, foundation liquid makeup
Comments: Orgasol Green Touch is a soft and creamy functional nylon powder that is specifically designed for all color cosmetics and skincare.
Orgasol Hydra+
INCI: Nylon-12 (and) sodium hyaluronate
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications:For anhydrous lipsticks, cream to powder hot pour, pressed powders, lipgloss and lip balms
Comments: Orgasol Hydra+ is the perfect ingredient to fight against the first signs of aging skin using a daily make-up. Designed for 30-plus skin.
Orgasol Restore
INCI: Polyamide-5 (and) olive glycerides (and) ceramide 3
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Cream to powder hot pour, pressed powders, lipgloss and lip balms
Comments: Orgasol Restore acts like micro-sponges filed with ceramides. It is easily blended onto the skin surface, therefore the micro-particles stay in contact with the lipid bilayers for a continuous release of the ceramides.

Cleveland, OH
Tel: 216-447-5000
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Schercemol CATC Ester
INCI: Cocoyl adipic acid/ trimethylolpropane copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-7%
Applications: Facial and body care, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Schercemol CATC Ester is an innovative ester designed to deliver typical long wear, transfer resistance, and non-migration properties of a “heavy” ester while offering the aesthetic comfort, slip and spreadibility of a lighter ester.
Schercemol TISC Ester
INCI: Triisostearyl citrate
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Color cosmetics
Comments: Schercemol TISC ester is a high shine, high viscosity emollient, recommended for use in lipstick and lipgloss preparations, where it can improve durability and color adhesion while reducing syneresis. Its light color allows use with pale, pastel colors.
Schercemol DISM Ester
INCI: Diisostearyl malate
Suggested Use Level: 1-7 %
Applications: Facial and body care, color cosmetics (lipsticks, eye shadow, face powder, blusher, and wet and dry face makeups)
Comments: Schercemol DISM ester is a rich emollient that functions as an excellent wetting agent and binder for powders and pigments. In creams and lotions, it delivers targeted delivery a cushiony emolliency that persists after rubout. In lipsticks, Schercemol DISM ester can be used to reduce feathering and bleeding.

South Hackensack, NJ
Tel: 201-440-5000
Email: naturex.us@naturex.com
Website: www.naturex.com
Carmine/Carmine Lake
INCI: Carmine/carmine lake
Suggested use levels: 0.05%-30%
Application: Makeup and coloring agent in formula
Comments: Natural carmine extracts are derived from cochineal. We offer natural cochineal extract and carmine lake up to 50% purity. Our color range includes pink, red and purple hues. Special preparation allows formulating in oily phase without any additives.
INCI: Annatto
Recommended use level: 0.05-30%
Suggested use levels: Makeup and coloring agent in formula
Comments: Annatto is derived from the seeds of the achiote trees of tropical and subtropical regions around the world. We offer two types of references, bixine, which is oil-soluble and norbixine for aqueous applications.
INCI: β-carotene
Suggested use levels: 0.05-30%
Applications: Makeup and coloring agent in formula
Comments: Our β-carotene is sourced from natural origin. The four main sources are palm, algae, fungus and carrot, each origin brings its own shade.

Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tel: 800-915-0066
Email: ktaylor@tc-usa.com
Website: www.tc-usa.com
Essachem BW
INCI: Behenyl olivate
Applications: Liquid foundations, lipsticks, mascaras, pigmented beauty balm creams and press powders.
Suggested use levels: 4-8%
Comments: The functional attributes for the Essachem BW are developed from a unique manufacturing process of plant-based behenyl alcohol and select acids from olive oil, which is highly emollient on spread and ideal for use in liquid foundations, lipsticks and pressed powders. This natural-based ester will improve skin suppleness and conditioning properties while offering improved stabilizing properties from thickening the oil phase of the formulations.
INCI: Castor isostearate succinate
Suggested use levels: 5-8%
Comments: Zenigloss is a natural-based, high molecular weight, film-formingpolymer that has a refractive index of 1.48. The Zenigloss is ideal for use in high shine lip applications as a natural alternative to traditional silicones and hydrocarbon ingredients. The polymer will also aid in film formation delivered from the oil phase to offer a natural substantive barrier on the skin.
Essachem O
INCI: Octyldodecyl olivate
Applications: Liquid foundations, pigmented beauty balm creams, lipsticks and pressed powders
Suggested use levels: 5.00-7.00%/wt
Comments: Essachem O is a low viscosity, fast absorbing, natural based liquid ester obtained from the reaction of select acids of olive oilthat is ideal in wetting out inorganic materials. Essachem O will also reduce the drag associated with traditional natural waxes and butters in emulsions and anhydrous formulations while offering a soft light spread on the skin.

TRI-K Industries
Denville, NJ
Tel: 973-298-8850
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
Glossamer L-6600
INCI: Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Lipsticks, lip balms, mascara, liquid makeup
Comments: Based on its excellent film forming properties, Glossamer can improve moisturization, fix actives on the skin and enhance gloss and shine.

Dayville, CT
Tel: 800-752-0490
Email: mamis@us-cosm.com
Website: www.uscosmetics.com
INCI: Kaolin (and) silica (and) titanium dioxide (and) aluminum dimyristate (and) triethoxycaprylysilane (and) disodium stearoylglutamate)
Suggested use levels:3-5%
Applications: For soft focus effect in moisturizers and color cosmetics
Comments: Penumbra-S is a unique composite powder consisting ofkaolin, silica and ultra-fine TiO2 surface treated with our hybrid ACT treatment (vegetable amino acid, metal soap and silane). The kaolin used in Penumbra-S has a refractive index similar to that of human skin while the ultra-fine TiO2 covers a wavelength range in the UV/ visible spectrum that provides visual “masking effects” to the nakedeye. This combination of unique properties provide a soft focus effect to improve skin texture and mask imperfections.
Midnight Eclipse-Kaolin
INCI: Kaolin (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Suggested use levels: 10%
Applications: SPF booster for O/W type sunscreens
Comments: Midnight Eclipse-Kaolin is silane surface treated kaolindesigned to provide excellent SPF and PFA boosting properties when used with organic UV absorbers in oil-in-water (O/W)sunscreens. It enables a drastic reduction of organic UV absorber usage while retaining desired SPF results.It also lowers thepossibility of skin irritation by reducing organic UV absorber usage.
ACT Treatment
INCI: Disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum dimyristate (and)
Suggested use levels: As needed
Applications: Anhydrous systems, liquid foundations, pressed/loose powders, and dual (2-way) foundations.
Comments: ACT is a hybrid surface treatment consisting of vegetable-derived lipoamino acid, fatty acid metal soap, and silane. ACT surface treated iron oxide and titanium dioxide colorants are fully micronized minimizing agglomeration andproviding optimal color development. ACT surface treatments are also available on cosmetic mineral substrates such as talc, mica andsericite providing smooth feel and excellent skin adhesion.•

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