Witness Protection

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | August 31, 2012

Modern skin care formulations feature a hint of tint, anti-aging benefits and a pop of SPF.

SPF values in skin care are almost as common these days as buzzwords such as anti-aging, acne-fighting or non-comedeogenic. With the dangers of UVA/UVB radiation and busy schedules featuring outdoor activities, many consumers would rather skip a layer of sunscreen and have sun protection already mixed into their face or body formulations. Add the trend of BB creams and perfecting primers, and the skin care category—once composed of facial cleansers, toners, moisturizers and serums—is growing with a new batch of hybrid SPF products that offer multi-purpose usage with the look of a foundation and the feel of a luxury serum.

This new school of hybrids adds a competitive edge to the R&D race, as sales of skin care as a whole—including body anti-aging, facial anti-aging, facial cleansers and facial moisturizers—in food, drug and mass-market outlets (excluding Walmart) rose 2.5% to $2.27 billion for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 19, 2012, according to data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm. Sales of facial moisturizers alone rose 5.9% to $268.4 million.

Skin care sales surged in the prestige beauty sector last year, according to The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. Since 2000, anti-aging facial skin care has grown to account for 63% of prestige facial skin care or $1.5 billion—a 17% increase over 2010.

Mintel Beauty & Personal Care found that the number of new US face care products that provide UV protection in 2011 rose to 19% of total launches, up from 13% in 2008. Many of these lotions include antioxidants to increase the skin’s defenses from the sun’s damaging effects.

According to In-Cosmetics event director Lucy Gillam, the new surge in face care products containing UV protection is a positive progression for a cosmetics industry that has been fixated on self-tanning products for the past 60 years.

“It seems that our pursuit to look and remain youthful has finally caught up with our obsession of having a tan,” she said.

BB creams—those multi-functional products that combine the functionality of primers, SPF and moisturizers, along with the anti-aging benefits of skin serums—have grown significantly in sales in the past several months, according to NPD. In fact, in the 12 months ending March 2012, BB creams sold in US department stores generated sales of nearly $9 million. There is even a buzz about the next level of this type of product, CC creams, which offer more color coverage.

“About half of all beauty shoppers are sitting on the fence, saying they may or may not buy BB creams in the future. Why does that matter? Almost 7 in 10 BB cream purchasers have replaced either a makeup or skin care product with a BB cream,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Even though usage is low right now, as more brands enter the market and the category grows, cannibalization could become a much larger challenge.”

The Battle of the BBs
Neither a foundation nor a tinted moisturizer, BB creams (also known as beauty balms) were invented by German dermatologists in the 1960s as a soothing post-treatment salve. Later, BBs caught on in Korea, where they became a favorite of movie stars who wanted fresh, flawless complexions without looking made up. Now, these products are taking the US skin care segment by storm from mass to prestige.

“Today’s shoppers are looking for multi-tasking products—a must for getting your money’s worth—that will provide multiple benefits as well as moisturization,” said Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York. “They want anti-aging ingredients to counteract the effects of sun damage as well as skin-lightening ingredients, as seen by the increasing popularity of beauty balms. Consumers want anti-aging products that provide protection; at the same time, however, they want these products to be cosmetically pleasing.”

And marketers are aiming to please, as there is a barrage of BB creams flooding the marketplace for Fall 2012. For example, Origins is bulking up its A Perfect World collection with A Perfect World SPF 15, an age-defense tinted moisturizer with white tea. Available in six shades, this natural BB cream contains silver tip white tea for an antioxidant boost. Estée Lauder-owned sister brand M·A·C is rolling out its Prep + Prime Beauty Balm SPF 35 in three semi-translucent shades covering extra-light to medium skin tones. Blending SPF protection, creamy emollients and optical pearl pigments, this face-priming, color-perfecting formula protects and evens the complexion for flawless results, contends the company. Bobbi Brown’s new BB Cream SPF 35 is a skin care/makeup hybrid that combines moisturizer, treatment, SPF and foundation all-in-one. When used over time, it provides long-term benefits—brighter, more even skin tone; diminished appearance of fine lines; reduced redness and minimized pores, according to the Estée Lauder-owned brand.

BB creams are also on the menu at L’Oréal. Besides rolling out a BB variation at its cornerstone L’Oréal brand, The Body Shop and Maybelline are also hitting it big with tinted SPF SKUs. The Body Shop’s new All in One BB Cream with a hint of titanium dioxide features a lightweight formula that provides 24-hour hydration and uses pigment filled capsules that burst to color-adapt to skin for a perfect match and a smooth undetectable finish, according to the company. Meanwhile, Maybelline’s oil-free BB formulation touts “8-in-1” skin perfecting benefits with SPF 30 in five different shades.

“Maybelline New York’s Dream Fresh BB has been a phenomenal success throughout the world. We are proud to bring this innovation to our US consumers,” said David Greenberg, president, Maybelline New York/Garnier/Essie. “Today’s consumers are hyper-attuned to the latest global beauty trends. The introduction of Dream Fresh BB brings a new category to our face portfolio of products so that we offer our consumer the most comprehensive portfolio to address her face needs.”

BB creams are big in both mass and prestige brands.

Other popular skin care brands, such as Jane Iredale and Dr. Brandt, also launched products into the BB field.

Jane Iredale’s Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream is a “multi-tasking dynamo” that combines foundation, concealer, sunscreen and moisturizer in a versatile one-step product. It contains a broad spectrum SPF 25 UVA PA++ that is water resistant for up to 40 minutes.

“Shoppers are looking for SPF that will not feel heavy or greasy on the skin.They want it to be lightweight and clean feeling,” noted Shawn Towne, global educator for Jane Iredale, Bernardsville, NJ.

Meanwhile, Dr. Brandt’s new signature BB cream with Flexitone skin-blending technology offers an anti-aging twist with SPF30/PA+++, pearl powder, lysophospholipids, perilla oil and an oxidative shield.

“Every woman needs skin care products in her arsenal that brighten, even skin tone and provide anti-aging and SPF properties,” said Dr. Brandt in a statement. “My new BB cream does the duty of all four, providing universal benefits that visibly improve every skin tone.”

A Clean Slate
Primers (much like BB creams but billed as more of a sheer base to be layered underneath facial cosmetics as opposed to a tinted moisturizer) are also getting a dose of UV protection. While many women use makeup and primers to cover imperfections, daily exposure to the sun and environmental factors can often exacerbate the problem.

La Roche-Posay has introduced a multi-use, one-step product that protects, corrects and smoothes uneven skin texture with Anthelios 50 Daily Anti-Aging Primer with Sunscreen and Cell-OX Shield.
According to the company, this innovative new primer offers the UVA/UVB protection and powerful antioxidants found in the iconic Anthelios franchise with a skin transforming primer that instantly corrects and improves the signs of aging for all skin types, including skin of color.Aerogel technology, a new generation of aerated silicas, creates a smooth, matte canvas on the skin that allows for easy, even makeup application with a prolonged hold.It also features a patent-pending antioxidant complex featuring Senna Alata, a plant extract indigenous to tropical regions.

“Wearing a high SPF every day is one of the most important things you can do in order to protect skin against sun-induced aging and other harmful effects, but many create a sticky or tacky feeling,” said New York dermatologist Dr. Diane Berson. “Getting people to consistently wear SPF is not only about sun protection but also if it’s pleasant and comfortable to wear under makeup. After all, a sun protection product is only effective if it is used.”

Dr. Vermén Verallo-Rowell, dermatologist, dermatopathologist and founder of VMV Hypoallergenics, Philippines and Kennebunkport, ME, agreed that SPF in skin care is not a trend but an essential in the category. Her company recently debuted Skintangible, billed as a “non-makeup makeup” with mineral SPF 30 sunscreens.

“Shoppers are not just seeking SPF (which protects against UVB) in their skin care but also UVA-PF (to protect against UVA),” she told Happi. “If pigmentations are a concern, also look for Visible Light - PF, perhaps even Infrared Light - PF protection.Consumers want all of these factors plus a formula that is as light and comfortable as possible, with less irritating ingredients to reduce the risk of allergic reactions or acne.Addressing all of these elements is important for better consumer compliance about daily use for protection on a daily basis.”

New scientific studies show that exposure to UVA, UVB and Infrared-A (IRA) rays can accelerate skin aging and can damage skin at the cellular level, according to sources at Elizabeth Arden. These environmental factors cause 80% of the visible signs of aging. Therefore, the company introduced Prevage Triple Defense Shield SPF 50 to combat environmental threats with “unprecedented protection.” It combines idebenone, touted as most powerful antioxidant available, with thiotaine to help neutralize damage caused by exposure to UVA, UVB and also from IRA radiation.

“UVB rays penetrate the epidermis causing sunburn, while UVA rays effect the dermis and lead to lines, wrinkles and signs of premature aging,” explained Art Pellegrino, vice president of research and development, Elizabeth Arden, New York. “Broad spectrum sunscreens protect against UVA and UVB rays but don’t shield skin from chronic, long-term IRA damage. The idebenone complex in Prevage Triple Defense Shield SPF 50 provides this essential IRA protection.”

Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Radiant UV Base SPF 50
Estée Lauder is fortifying its popular Re-Nutriv anti-aging range with a new Radiant UV Base.

According to the company, it combines “the ultimate in luxury and the most sophisticated science in one extraordinary formula.”

The SPF 50 version features the keystone Life-Renewing Molecules, the “secret strength” in every new Re-Nutriv formulation. The sheer UV base creates a radiant veil of protection, helps to repair the visible effects of past UV damage, while nourishing and helping protect skin from the aging effects of everyday exposure, according to the company.

With SPF 50, Re-Nutriv Radiant UV Base helps guard against both UVA and UVB rays to help reduce the aging effects of everyday exposure—including the formation of fine lines, age spots, uneven skin tone and other imperfections. A combination of blue-toned pearl optics and a violet tint, impart an instant, even, luminous look, and diffuse light for a burst of glowing vitality, bringing out skin’s radiance, according to the company.

This Spring, Amazing Cosmetics, creator of Amazing Concealer, added a long-awaited liquid foundation to its collection of complexion products, with the launch of the Velvet Mineral Liquid Custom Finish Foundation SPF 15. According to the company, this product is a combination of the brand’s concealer and anti-aging face primer formulations with a hint of sun protection.

New and Improved
Several marketers are offering new twists on classic products. Consider the launch of MuraSol Antioxidant Defense, an advanced sun care technology that will be rolled into all Murad products containing SPF protection.

According to the company, MuraSol is a proprietary blend of powerful antioxidants featuring a unique encapsulation technology that penetrates the skin’s top layers to create a protective barrier of free radical neutralizers to provide a whole new level of environmental protection. Murad researchers insist that no combination of active ingredients can deliver 100% UV protection on the skin’s surface. UV rays that penetrate this layer create free radical damage, which is harmful to the skin and can cause premature aging. By neutralizing free radicals with antioxidants before they are able to inflict damage, MuraSol creates a stronger defense against UV rays.

This Meaningful Beauty daytime product features SPF 20.

“Despite application of advanced UVA and UVB sunscreens, some percentage of UV rays will always be able to penetrate any combination of active ingredients,” said Jeff Murad, vice president, product development. “These rays create free radical damage within the skin that can lead to premature aging. In order to prevent this, we need antioxidants that penetrate deep within the surface layers of the skin to neutralize these free radicals before the damage is done. We created MuraSol to close this gap and provide our customers with advanced, 360° sun protection.”

To help keep skin soft and supple, MuraSol combines essential antioxidants, pomegranate extract and vitamin E along with hyaluronic acid and plant lipids to preserve the skin’s barrier and ensure long lasting, continual hydration. Murad’s patented skin care repair system protects elasticity to maintain skin firmness. MuraSol Antioxidant Defense will debut in Murad’s Age-Proof Suncare line, which was developed to optimize sun protection while preventing premature aging through the antioxidant protection of pomegranate extract.

An exclusive microencapsulated melon complex powers Cindy Crawford’s Meaningful Beauty line from Guthy-Renker. Its new Meaningful Beauty Antioxidant Day Crème SPF 20 UVA/UVB offers luxury ingredients and broad-spectrum protection to help rejuvenate, firm and reveal younger looking skin, according to the company. Suitable for all skin types, the lightweight yet effective moisturizer is fortified with dual-action vitamin C. This cocktail of powerful antioxidants combats free radical damage and when combined with bearberry extract and sunscreens, helps brighten the complexion and smooth out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles to diminish the visible signs of premature aging, according to the brand.

Meanwhile, still going strong in the mass market since its introduction in 2011 is Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Day SPF 30, a daily moisturizer that nourishes skin while also protecting skin from damaging UVA and UVB rays. Accelerated retinol SA is formulated with retinol SA, glucose complex and hyaluronic acid. Active ingredients include avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene.

“Johnson & Johnson formulators research ingredients and fine-tune prototypes to achieve formulas with the feel and texture that we know consumers will love using every day,” said Cathy Salerno, vice president, global R&D adult skin care at Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, NJ.

A similar concept in the prestige sector, Ole Henriksen’s Day Creme was designed to provide a protective barrier against harmful pollutants. It works to nourish and soothe irritated, sensitive and over-treated skin while providing SPF 15 for complete UVA protection.

Two years ago, La Prairie introduced the White Caviar Illuminating Système, an innovative three-part collection of advanced formulas that target age spots, discoloration and hyper-pigmentation. For 2012, the company expanded the collection to include three new complementary items—including the White Caviar Illuminating Hand Cream SPF 15—to target very specific discoloration in problem areas by brightening the skin before, during and after pigmentation.

White Caviar Illuminating Hand Cream SPF 15 and White Caviar Illuminating Eye Cream feature Oligopeptide-68, a skin-lightening peptide, along with Swiss garden cress sprout extract, to fade existing spots and prevent future excess pigment formation. Hands are one of the most highly exposed parts of the body, often resulting in discoloration and age spots. But White Caviar Illuminating Hand Cream SPF 15 is said to fight daily damage from the elements and protect against future discoloration and aging from UV rays.

“As trailblazers and leaders in high-performance, luxury skin care, our skin scientists work tirelessly to create products that address our customers’ skin aging concerns.” said Lynne Florio, president, La Prairie.

With the new FDASPF monograph in place for December 2012, consumers are looking for multi-tasking broad spectrum protection in their anti-aging skin care, noted Anthony Potin, assistant vice president, skin andsun care labs, L’Oréal USA, Clark, NJ.

“The additional benefits would provide an all-in-one approach—hydration and anti-aging, such as lines, wrinkles, dark spots, etc.Secondly, but just as important, consumer perceivable benefits are apparent. And finally, there should be no sacrifice with aesthetics.The ‘multi-tasking’ approach would mirror today’s consumers’ lifestyle,” he told Happi.

For example, La Roche-Posay’s Redermic [+] UV Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Fill-In Care with SPF 25 features neurosensine, a calming ingredient that mitigates neuromediator response to various aggressors; stabilized, pure vitamin C to boost collagen; madecassoside, which fills in deep wrinkles; and a patented combination of octocrylene with avobenzone, which provides photostable, broad-spectrum protection.

Facing the Future
Industry experts agree that the development of skin care with SPF is only getting more advanced, one R&D team at a time.

“The future of skin care technology, and we are almost there, is in micronized products that allow physical sunscreen particles to be placed on the skin that allows a smooth light cosmetic feel while providing total and broad spectrum blockage,” predicted Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, director of the 5th Avenue Dermatology Surgery and Laser Center, New York. “The other advances are allowing us to mix these sunscreens with other skin care technologies, such as antioxidants and anti-aging serums, all-in-one technologies.”

Newer factors in creating sun protection will be prevention of inflammation and advanced glycation end products (AGEs), noted Graf. Other trends will include the addition of peptide fragments to enhance melanin protection as well as lip balms with broad spectrum high SPF coverage with strong focus on flavor. Continued development in the naturals field with a focus on specific algae peptides will continue too, as will the DNA repair enzyme technology, Graf told Happi.

“We see a lot of promise in matching naturally active ingredients with advanced sun protection technology,” said Salerno of J&J. “We also believe that innovative delivery systems that encourage consumer compliance for skin care and sun care will continue to evolve and be in demand.”

At the end of the day, according to Towne of Jane Iredale, “With newer and better technology constantly emerging, look for skin care with higher SPF and longer lasting protection on the horizon.”
Lips Sealed with a Kiss of Protection
A SKU with SPF is a hot commodity these days. Here’s a look at recent launches in both the mass and prestige marketplaces.

• Aquaphor Lip Repair + Protect with Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen ($4.49) features a broad-spectrum sunscreen formula that helps protect against UVA/UVB rays. According to the company, ingredients include petrolatum, shea butter, castor seed oil, panthenol and vitamins C and E.
More info: www.AquaphorHealing.com

• Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm SPF 25 with Mango & Mandarin ($7.50) is enriched with superior skin conditioners and antioxidants. This emollient balm is said to soothe and relieve dry, chapped, irritated lips. It offers broad-spectrum sun protection with an SPF of 25 and guards against windburn and temperature extremes.
More info: www.getjackblack.com

• Chapfix+ ($2.97), sold at Walmart, is a mint-flavored balm for men infused with SPF and natural ingredients like coconut oil, aloe vera, vitamin E and beeswax. The bullet-like package features an angled cap that slips easily into a pocket and lays flat.
More info: http://chapfix.com

• Sebamed Lip Defense with SPF 30 ($4.95) is an intensive lip balm in a swivel tube that smoothes dry, chapped lips. It regenerates dry, chapped lips quickly and effectively with vitamin E and bisabolol (chamomile extract), while essential plant extracts jojoba and rice bran protect against dehydration.
More info: www.SebamedUSA.com

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