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Asian Brightening Secret: Intensive Night Repair



Published July 1, 2008
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Phase A
Deionized water
79.66
Disodium EDTA (Fluka)
0.02
Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer (Noveon) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
0.50
Glucam E-20 Humectant (Noveon) (Methyl gluceth-20)
1.00
Glycerin (SinoPharm)
2.00
Glucamate SSE-20 Emulsifier (Noveon) (Methyl glucose sesquistearate)
2.00
Schercemol* DISM Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl malate)
4.00
Schercemol* DISD Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate)
3.00
Schercemol* 318 Ester (Noveon) (Isopropyl isostearate)
3.00
Schercemol* MM Ester (Noveon) (Myristyl myristate)
1.00
Lipovol J (Lipo Chemicals) (Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil)
0.50
Copherol 1250 (Cognis) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.10
BHT (Qingdao Hengfeng (China))
0.02
Extrapone Angelica Root (Symrise) (Angelica polymorpha sinensis root extract, propylene glycol, water)
0.30
Extrapone Licorice Root 607646 (Symrise) (Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root (extract, propylene glycol, glucose, water)
0.40
Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)
0.50

Phase B
Glucate SS Emulsifier (Noveon)(Methyl glucose sesquistearate)
1.00

Phase C
Sodium hydroxide (18%)
0.70**

Phase D
Vegetol Ginseng GR 471 Hydro (Gattefossu00e9) (Panax ginseng root extract, propylene glycol, water)
0.30**

Procedure
Phase A: Add Disodium EDTA into deionized water.     While mixing, disperse Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer into the water phase.  Add Glucam* E-20 Humectant and glycerin to batch. Heat batch to 70°C. PART B:  In a separate vessel large enough to contain entire batch, mix ingredients and heat to 70-80°C. At 70-80°C, slowly add Phase A to Phase B.  Allow the emulsification to complete by mixing the batch for 5-10 minutes at 70°C. Begin cooling batch under continuous moderate mixing.  When batch has cooled to 50-60°C, neutralize with Phase C. Mix until uniform. Continue cooling batch. When batch has cooled to 45-50°C, add Phase D ingredients in order, one at a time to batch. Mix until uniform. Continue mixing batch until it has cooled to 35-40°C.

Properties
Appearance: Soft White to Off-white Emulsion
pH: 6.25 – 6.75
Viscosity (mPa·s):***    35,000 – 40,000
Yield Value (dyn/cm²):  2,700 – 3,500
Stability:  Passed 3 months @ 45°C, 2 months @ 25°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw

***Brookfield RVT or DV-II @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured at 24 hours

More Information
This night cream contains angelica root and ginseng, two ingredients thought to provide concentrated nutrition and to restore one to a balanced condition.  Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer and a blend of Schercemol* Esters together provide a rich, creamy and cushiony skinfeel throughout the application experience.

More Information
Noveon Consumer Specialties
9911 Brecksville Road Cleveland, OH 44141-3247,  Tel: 216-447-5000, 800-379-5389
Fax: 216-447-5250,  Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com


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