Silicone-Free Moisturizing Shampoo

August 10, 2009

Phase A
Jaguar C17 (Rhodia) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)
Miracare SLB365/N (Rhodia) (Water, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamide MEA)
Lubrirob TOD 1880 (Novance) (Helianthus annuus sunflower) seed oil)
Ionol CP (Degussa) (BHT)
Crodacol CS 90 EP (Croda) (Cetearyl alcohol)
Incroquat CTC-30 (Croda) (Cetrimonium chloride)
D-Panthenol USP (BASF) (Panthenol)
Hydrolyzed soy protein (A&E Connock)
Sodium chloride (20%)
Sodium benzoate
Citric acid (50%)
qs pH 4.7
Deionized water
qs 100

More Information
*17.5% of a 20% NaCl solution: this means that if 100 grams of body wash are prepared, 17.5 grams of a 20% NaCl solution must be introduced. This corresponds to an active content in NaCl of 3.5%.

To prepare such a formula, low rpm mixing (typically 150 rpm) is recommended in order to properly structure the system and minimize air entrapment. Also, the agitation system must be chosen carefully to ensure good recirculation of the product. The use of paddle stirrers, impellers or anchors is recommended. The blending procedure is the following (the mixing rate is set at 150 rpm except otherwise specified): charge water into main vessel, slowly add the Miracare SLB-365/N and mix until uniform (about 15 min). Charge Crodacol CS 90EP under agitation and start heating at 65°C. In a separate vessel, blend the oil (Lubrirob TOD 1880) and antioxidant (Ionol CP). When the BHT is totally dissolved, slowly sift the Jaguar C17 and mix until fully disperse. When the Crodacol is totally dissolved, start cooling to 35°C. Then add the Incroquat CTC-30. Mix until uniform. Increase the mixing rate of the main vessel to 300 rpm. Charge the premix containing the oil, antioxidant and the Jaguar C17 into the main batch. When all the oil phase is emulsified (5 min), bring back the mixing rate to 150 rpm. Continue to mix until completely uniform (about 15 min) Charge the panthenol and the hydrolyzed soy protein and mix until uniform. Charge the sodium benzoate and the sodium chloride solution into main vessel and mix until uniform (about 15 min). Adjust pH of the system to 4.7 with citric acid solution (50% aq.), and mix for one 40 minutes.

Appearance-white lotion-like solution; pH (as is) at 25°C—4.6 - 4.7; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—18600cps (RVT, sp 5, 10 rpm); Density—1.1; Stability—Stable for 3 months at 45°C, Stable for 3 months in F/T cycles (24h -9°C / 24h +25°C)

More Information
Rhodia Inc., Tel: (800) 973-7873, (609) 860-4220; Website:
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