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Novel Materials on Display At NYSCC Suppliers' Day



By Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant



Published May 28, 2010
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The 2010 edition of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day was another success. The event included nearly 600 exhibit booths and more than 8,000 attendees. Moreover, attendees took advantage of online pre-registration, which prevented long lines at the entrance.

This annual two-day event attracted more than 8,000 attendees and included nearly 600 exhibit booths.
Many chemical suppliers are now offering “green” products. For some suppliers, green means biodegradable and petroleum derivative-free. For example, Rhodia, Cranbury, NJ, has a bio-sourced version of sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), the most commonly used shampoo ingredient. The ethylene oxide used is made from sugar cane, not petroleum. After processing, the excess sugar cane is reused to generate energy. The lauryl alcohol is from palm oil. This SLES duplicate is called Rhodaplex ESB-70 NAT (70% active). The advantage is that it will occupy less space in shipping and storing. It is claimed that this vegetable derived SLES is as efficient as the conventional SLES. Also, this product has a 100% Biorenewable Carbon Index number which indicates that it is made from only vegetable sources (and no petroleum sources). Biorenewable materials are defined as being derived from animal, plant or marine based sources.

Another company offering a new eco-friendly product is Inolex, Philadelphia, PA. It is promoting Emulsense (proposed INCI name: Brassicyl isoleucinate (and) brassica alcohol). Emulsense is a solid cationic agent used for hair conditioning and skin care. It is derived solely from fermentation and plant materials and consists of 65% active cationic and 35% fatty alcohol. Among the ecological claims are 100% natural, Ecocert-approved, petrochemical free, readily biodegradable, non-toxic to aquatic organisms and no animal testing. It is an emulsifier in skin care products that furnishes a silky initial feel and a powdery after feel. The recommended use level is 4-6.5% and additional fatty alcohol will enhance the structure. Glycerin will increase the stability of the formula. Emulsense is incompatible with certain gums, proteins and mineral oil. One last suggestion is that when raising Emulsense’s inherent pH of 3.5, the use of L-arginine is highly recommended. A lower active version (23% cationic) is also available.

Stepan Company, Northfield, IL, also was promoting a green product called Amphosol CDB Special (INCI name: Cetyl betaine). This is an amphoteric secondary surfactant designed to improve the viscosity of anionic, sulfate-free systems. It is an unpreserved 30% active clear liquid that is free of dioxane, polyethylene glycol and ethylene oxide. It has a renewable carbon index of 78 and is readily biodegradable. A suggested body wash sulfate-free formula is shown here:

Sulfate-Free Body Wash
Ingredient %Wt.
Sodium methyl-2 sulfolaurate 16.22
disodium 2-sulfolaurate
Amphosol CDB Special 13.32
Polyquaternium 7 2.84
Glycerine 1.50
Fragrance 0.10
Preservative 0.05
pH adjuster q.s.
Water q.s. to 100

Procedure: To water in tank, add Polyquaternium 7 and mix until clear. Add first two surfactants and then glycerine. Add other ingredients when solution is homogeneous. Viscosity can be adjusted with sodium chloride.

Finally, Evonik Industries, Hopewell, VA, also offers a line of natural and biodegradable products including an emulsifier called Tego Care PSC 3. Its literature indicates that as more people are concerned with the environment, focus is being placed on ways to reduce emissions and conserve energy in the production process. According to the company, Evonik is the only supplier to commercialize biotechnologically derived cosmetic esters. They use 60% less energy and reduce the formation of pollutants by up to 88%. As an example, they mention Tegosoft OER, a new enzymatically-produced, vegetable-based emollient. This current environmental friendly trend is a good step toward saving the earth for our children’s children and should be encouraged.


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