Gleams & Notions

A Wide Array of Ingredients At NYSCC Suppliers' Day

By Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant | July 7, 2011

This year’s New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’Suppliers’ Day, which was held in May in Edison, NJ, was well attended as usual. Total attendance reached 7,200, an increase of nearly 20% over 2010. The number of exhibitors rose 10% to 330. Suppliers’ Day is always a great chance to visit with old friends and meet new customers. But, of course, it is an also an excellent opportunity to find out more about new ingredients as well.

Among the exhibitors was Croda, Edison, NJ, which was promoting the use of Verathix as a rheology modifier and thickener in surfactant systems. In non-sulfate shampoos, 2% Verathix (INCI name:PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl tetra stearate (and) PPG-2 hydroxyl cocamide (and) water) will produce good viscosity results, but more thickener is needed in traditional sulfate formulations. Another claimed advantage is that Verathix will keep its viscosity in a shampoo until a small amount of shear causes it to thin out to enable easy pouring.The following hand cleanser furnishes a viscosity of 5,000 cps.

Sulfate Free Shampoo
Part A
Waterq.s. 100
Part B
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate 18.0
Cocamidopropyl betaine 6.5
Part C
Verathix 2.6
Part D
Add B to A with gentle mixing.Heat AB to 45-50°C and add C.Mix, begin cooling and add D.Adjust pH if necessary.

New from schülke
Also present at Suppliers’ Day was schülke inc., Mt. Arlington, NJ, with its deodorant mixture called Sensidin DO (INCI name: Propylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, octen- idine HCL). The glycol is the solvent for the deodorant ethylhexylglycerin and the octenidine, which provides the antibacterial properties.

Sensidin DO is a clear, colorless light yellow liquid concentrate with a slight characteristic odor that inhibits the growth and multiplication of odor causing bacteria on the skin. The recommended usage is 0.5 to 1%.Sniff tests were run using 0.5% Sensidin DO vs. 0.3% triclosan and no significant differences between the deodorants was noticed. In vitro test showed it to be effective against foot odor and athlete’s foot causing bacteria. It has limited solubility in water (1%), but is very soluble in alcohols and glycols.

DSM’s Skin Brightener
DSM Nutritional Products, Parsippany, NJ, has a skin brightener called Regu-Fade, which is composed of trans-resveratrol an antioxidant found in red grapes. Skin brighteners are common in Asia; elsewhere, they diminish age spots, reduce excess pigmentation and even skin tone. A double-blind, placebo study was performed on 52 Indian female volunteers. Three test subjects were added to an SPF 10 cream, applied twice daily on the forearms, and colorimetric measurements were taken after 14, 28, 60 and 90 days. According to DSM, 1% Regu-Fade provided the brightest skin, followed by 0.2% Regu-Fade, ascorbyl glucoside at 2%, and the cream base was last.Up to 1% Regu-Fade is recommended for skin brightening facial and body care products or anti-aging creams.

A New Carbomer
Lubrizol, Cleveland, OH, offered a different carbomer polymer called Carbopol Aqua SF-2 Polymer (proposed INCI name is Acrylates Crosspolymer-X). It was designed for use with low pH preservatives such as sodium benzoate, which are only active in the pH 4 to 6 range.

The material forms clear surfactant formulas at pH 4 to 6, and suspends and stabilizes insoluble ingredients. It also has broad surfactant compatibility, provides synergistic thickening with salt, enhances pearlescent appearance and is compatible with low levels of cationic agents. Some applications are clear bath gels, shampoos and cleansers, pearlescent surfactants, body scrubs with suspended microcapsules, facial scrubs with exfoliating beads, anti-acne facial cleansers with salicylic acid and conditioning shampoos.

Micro Powders Inc., Tarrytown, NY, introduced a high molecular weight powder produced from polylactic acid. The larger particle size powders (from 50 up to 297 microns) are called Ecoscrubs and are used as exfoliates. They perform the same as polyethylene powders, but are derived from a biodegradable polymer. The smaller particle size powders called Ecosoft (8 to 20 microns) provide increased slip and enhance the texture of makeup products. They also act as binders in pressed powder formulations.

Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436,, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.
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