Among the exhibitors was Centerchem, Norwalk, CT promoting a new product called Citrustem.
Derived from orange stem cells, which are undifferentiated cells that can regenerate the whole plant, it is claimed that Citrustem “organizes and redensifies the dermis structure, restores the extracellular network improving cells’ adhesion, and recovers the quality of young skin.” Just 0.3% Citrustem increased the production of TGK (an essential enzyme for the epidermis) by 700%, and increased the fibroblast proliferation by 23% more than the control. Also, 3% Citrustem increased the desquamation regulation by 17.5%—this makes the stratum corneum more cohesive, with fewer scales, which creates a smoother skin. Tests also showed that this same 3% Citrustem increased the skin’s bio-elasticity by 10.15%. Citrustem is a viscous white to pale yellow liquid in which the recommended use level is 2-4%.
Below is a suggested skin care product formula.
Ageless Restructuring Serum
|10% Citric acid||0.15|
|Bentonite, xanthan gum||1.00|
|Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylatecrosspolymer||0.3|
|Jojoba seed oil||4.00|
Glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl
|10% sodium hydroxide||0.68|
Grant Industries, Elmwood Park, NJ, showcased Gransil EP-9 (INCI name: Polysilicone-11 (and) water (and) laureth-12 (and) phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin). The Polysilicone-11 is present at 60% to provide an intensified blurring property to skin lines and wrinkles, in addition to its sensory feel which is non-tacky, non-oily, and leaves a powdery after feel.
Gransil EP-9 is also said to absorb sebum to control excess oils on the skin. It is non-irritating, non-sensitizing and approved for global use. The recommended use for instant results is 25-45%, and 5-10% for adding additional sensory properties. It can be used in O/W or W/O emulsions or dispersions.
During Suppliers’ Day, Chemsil Silicones, Chatsworth, CA, promoted Microsil Volume (INCI name: Propoxytetramethyl piperdinyl dimethicone (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) trideceth-6 (and) C11-C15 Pareth-7). It is a clear, cationic, aqueous silicone microemulsion.
According to Chemsil, in laboratory tests, Microsil Volume increased hair volume by 23%, and improved anti-static control and softness, and enhanced hair shine. It is water dispersible, has 25% solids, and a pH of 6-7.
It is recommended for use in hair conditioners as the formula below illustrates.
Full Body Conditioner
|Behentrimonium methosulfate(and) cetearyl alcohol||4.50|
Glyceryl stearate (and)
PEG -100 stearate
|DMDM hydantoin(and) idopropynyl butylcarbamate||0.35|
Procedure: Heat Part A in batch tank to 85°C with high speed mixing.
Add Part B in indicated order and mix for 30 minutes. Cool to 40°C, add Part C and mix for 10 minutes. This is a white emulsion with a pH of 4.3, and a viscosity of 11,200cs.
Of course, this is just a sample of what chemists could find on the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day exhibition floor. For those who plan early, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2013 will be held May 14-15, 2013.
Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.